SCAPBY:

SURBHI GOYALSWATI SUMAN

B.F.tech IV

PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR SEWING

Bundle Ticket Design Off Loading Bundling

Bundle ticket also known as work or pay control ticket

Originates in either cutting department or the pay-roll department

Used for pay control as well as production control process

Can be used for unit flow as well as bundle flow production systems

Bundle Ticket Design

Two major divisions:1. Returned to payroll control by production supervisory staff2. Collected on the pay-cards submitted by the operators

* Is perforated in sections and sub-sections according to the total number of sub assembly and assembly lines as well as the number of jobs in them.

* Thus two divisions are formed out of the bundle ticket :

3. Supervisory division4. Sub-section which each operator takes

1. Each of the supervisory division contains: a) Serial number of the entire bundle ticketb) The name of the sub-section, such as sleeve, collar, front,

etc.c) Style name or numberd) Cutting order number or spreading ticket number (move

ticket number)e) The date the bundle was compiled in the cutting departmentf) Size, amount, color of the bundleg) Name of each job in the section and the number of the

operator who did the job, next to each job name, also the date the operation was completed.

h) The signature of the supervisor or checker for the production section covered by the ticket section.

2. Each of the operator’s sub-section contains:a) Name of the jobb) Bundle ticket numberc) The amount, size and color of the bundled) The price of jobe) The style name or numberf) The move ticket number controlling the bundle (or the

cutting ticket number)

There should be only one copy of each bundle ticket (with the same bundle ticket serial number), otherwise it would be impossible to prevent payment twice for a given task.

Off Loading

Off loading is the process of removing cut parts from the cutting table, counting, ticketing, and grouping them.

Cut parts are considered work-in-progress inventory and are counted and tracked through the rest of the production processes.

This is usually done through bundle tickets that originate with cutting orders.

The purpose of bundle tickets is to:

a) Monitor the progress of each specific garment,

b) Ensure that the correct parts are assembled together, and

c) Compensate operators for their work on each garment.

Cut part identification involves identifying and marking parts for further operations.

Throughout the sewing process, it is essential that each garment be assembled from parts that have been cut from the same ply of fabric, which is ensured by shade marking each piece in the lay.

Every piece is ticketed with a style number, size, and ply number.

Shade marking is done prior to bundling.

Fusing applications of interlinings are frequently done as part of preproduction operations.

This involves separating and laying out cut garment parts, positioning cut interlining parts on the appropriate parts, fusing the required parts, and recombining parts for bundling.

Garment parts are grouped and bundled for the specific production system to be used. Bundle tickets are attached, and the parts are ready to be moved to the sewing operation.

Works best for the work station layout which permits the bundler to sort witha) A motion pattern devoid of backtrack or criss-cross

movementsb) Minimum distance from stack to stack

* Manner of folding or superposing the plies in the bundles should be such that there is

c) Minimum or no creasingd) Minimum or no disarraying of the cut alignment

Bundling

Tier stack bins (or boxes) on casters- excellent means for bundling and transporting cut sections without the necessity of bundle tying.

The sorted stack should be packed between two plies of masonite or appropriate cardboard.

Perfect quality and securement can be had bya) Making the bundle board slightly larger than the

pattern areab) Securing the sides of the board with outside latches

DOCUMENTATION PROCEDURES AND

CONTROL Cutting Instruction Issue

Fabric Control Charts

Fabric usage Control: Issue of Materials

The details of individual batches are entered on a cutting instruction, which authorises the issue of fabric and provides essential information for spreading and cutting.

It is to be ensured that the materials are efficiently used.

The fabric reconciliation record provides a comparison of actual usage, and reports variances.

This forms the link between cutting room activities and financial control projections.

And, as materials comprise approximately 40% of manufacturing costs, should be regarded as vitally important.

Cutting Instruction

The cutting instruction is the main documentary output of the cut order planning process. It is known by a variety of names in industry:The cutting order, the cutting sheet, the lay sheet, etc.

The cutting instruction must have the following information:1. The fabric to be processed;2. The marker to be used;3. The number of plies authorized (or equivalent).

Example format for the cutting instruction

The details of the cutting instruction as taken from the cut order plan are as follows.

Style number-Normally only one style is cut in a lay but in exceptional circumstances, in order to improve marker utilisation, more than one style may be cut together.

Marker number-Since the cutting instruction authorises the processing of one lay, only one marker is specified.

Cutting instruction number-Each document has a unique number for the purpose of management control. This number is also entered on the cutting instruction record.

Date issued-The cutting schedule governs the authorisation of lays. The progress of batches in the cutting room may be monitored by reference to the issue date.

Marker length-Information on the marker length is transferred to the cutting instruction. By adding on the ends allowance, the spreader can determine the lay length.

Measured lay length-This figure is entered by the spreader on completion of the lay. It provides direct feedback on ends of ply losses and can be used to assist the analysis of low yield.

Fabric to be cut-The fabric to be cut details inform the storeman and the spreader of the planner’s intentions. A qualitative description of the fabric is given so they can check that the correct fabric is issued.

Garments to be cut- Details of the garments to be cut are based on the cut order plan. The marker quantities are entered against each size, and the number of garments is calculated by multiplying the marker quantity by the number of plies.

Cutting Instruction Record

In a manual management information system, the issue and progress of cutting instructions are recorded in a cutting instruction record.The cutting instruction record is designed to assist control. It enables the manager to know:

1. What work is in progress in the cutting room.2. What work is overdue and needs progressing.

Comparisons between issue dates and completion dates provide information on throughout times.

3. Weekly production data for updating other documents.

Enter details in cutting

instruction record

Issue fabric from store

Lay

Cut

Bundle

Return cutting instruction to cutting room

manager

Issue cutting instruction

Update cutting instruction

record

Procedure for updating the cutting instruction record

CUTTING INSTRUCTION RECORD

Production unit Week number

Lay No. Date Issued Style Doz to Cut Doz Cut Date Completed Operator

1. 14/4 A 100

2. 14/4 B 150

3. 14/4 C 100

4. 14/4 D 200

Format for a simple cutting instruction record

Fabric usage Control: Spreading Audit

The spreading audit investigates all aspects of material usage and assesses the control being exercised in the various processes.

1. Lay Details-The first check is to ensure the fabric, the marker and the number of plies in the lay as per the cutting instruction.

2. Ends Losses-This has to be reviewed since ends waste has a tendency to increase with time. The cutting instruction has a record of the measured lay length and the marker length, to facilitate the comparison.

3. Edge Allowance-The usable width of the fabric should be established by comparing the lay with the marker width. The difference between the marker width and the lay width is the edge allowance.

4. Splice Allowance-Splice allowances resulting from the ends of pieces or from the cutting out of faults should be examined and the splice lines should be clearly marked.

5. Remnant Lengths-The practices of the cutting room should be considered in the light of all constraints, but evidence should be present that remnant lengths are processed efficiently with the objective of minimizing waste.

6. Faults Processed-Comparisons between the number of strung faults and the number of faults cut out during spreading (or recut after spreading) provide an indication of the supplier’s standards of inspection.

7. Accounting for purchased length issued- It is possible to assess whether the purchased lengths are

realistic or not. The ply length multiplied by the total number of plies

provides the starting point for the calculation. To this should be added the lengths of all remnants and any

unused fabric. This total length may then be compared with the purchased

length issued. In case of discrepancy further measurements are necessary,

as there may be a problem in the losses due to fabric faults. Data is required on:

o The lengths of faulty fabric cut out during spreading (x)o The lengths involved in splicing allowances (y)o The gross length of the fabric pieces (z)

Gross length-o Obtained from the tickets supplied with the pieceso It is the purchased length plus the allowances made for

strung faults.o The lengths ‘x’ and ‘y’ are added together and compared

with the difference between ‘z’ and the measured lay length.

Ifo No discrepancy > allowances being made for faults

satisfactory.o If there is a discrepancy > inadequate compensation to

process faults.

If calculations show that purchased length and the actual piece length are not matching then:

o The spreading technique must be checked to ensure that the fabric is laid up without overfeed.

o Checks should also be made to see if fabric shrinkage is occurring during spreading, effectively reducing the length of the fabric.

o If correct spreading is confirmed, the inference is that the company is being overcharged for the fabric supplied.

Deviations from the Costed Marker Plan

It is possible that the marker used with specific lays is not the same as the production marker used to determine the rating of fabric usage (RFU). This could be for several reasons:

The fabric received was narrower than the specification, and a decision was made to cut rather than return the fabric. To avoid problems of misshapen panels at the selvedge edges, a new marker was made but with a reduced utilization.

Pattern changes had occurred since the production costing was determined. These changes were done at the customer’s request but they led to an increased rating of fabric usage.

Production pressures required that a small lay be prepared so that work could be issued to the sewing unit within a few hours. A short marker was prepared with a reduced utilization.

Customer feedback meant that a marker with a different ratio was prepared, with a higher RFU.

Fabric Usage Control: Fabric Reconciliation

It is also called as: gains and loss report or the fabric variance report.

The essence of fabric reconciliation is that, for each lay, a comparison is made between costed and actual usage of fabric, and the variance is reported.

Fabric reconciliation takes place after the fabric has been cut.

Following worked examples demonstrate the principles.o Common data

Rating of fabric usage = 1.53m/garment Fabric Cost = Rs 50 per m

o Example 1, Lay 1 Actual Usage = 545 m No. of garments cut = 360 Costed Usage = 360 X 1.53 = 550.8 m Gain in Fabric = 550.8 – 545.0 = 5.8 m Saving = Rs 290

o Example 2, Lay 2 Actual Usage = 463 m No. of garments cut = 300 Costed Usage = 300 X 1.53 = 459 m Loss in Fabric = 463 – 459 = 4 m Loss = Rs 200

Both the examples show that a costed usage figure can be calculated from the number of garments cut from the lay. By subtracting the actual usage from the costed usage, the variance can be established and expressed in monetary terms.

It is normal practice for variances to be included in the weekly report for senior management.

FABRIC RECONCILIATION RECORDStyle: A555 Week end: 8/11Rating of fabric Usage: 0.55 m/gmt Fabric Cost: $1.50 per metre

Lay Number

Garments Cut

Actual Usage (m)

Costed usage (m)

Fabric variance

Gain Loss

$ variance

Gain Loss

173185197212218230237

480480480240240480480

260.5265.2267.8133.1132.4262.0263.7

264.0264.0264.0132.0132.0264.0264.0

3.50

2.000.30

1.203.801.100.40

5.25

3.000.45

8.70

1.805.701.650.60

9.75

Total 1.05

Example of a fabric reconciliation record

CUTTING ROOM LAYOUT AND CUTTING

Room Organization

Layout

The best layout for a given factory will depend upon a variety of factors:

The minimum length of route for manual humping and expensive mechanical transportation;

The machinery location, which may need to be near to services or where the floor is strong enough to bear its weight;

The method of transportation, which may require straight lines, like a belt conveyor or to be graded downwards, like gravity-powered devices;

The production system involved, especially in respect to the division between process and product layout

The type of garment being manufactured, which may or may not lend itself to parallel make or to detailed sectionalisation

The shape of the building and the number of its floors

Safety requirements, such as that for the provision of adequate gangways

Thank You!!