sapori

TIME FOR CHANGE: L’IMPERO BECOMES CONVIVIOPRIZED PURVEYOR: MEET VINNY THE OCTOPUS GUY

THE TRINITY: OLIVES, CAPERS, AND ANCHOVIESBEHIND THE BAR: THE ITALIAN JOB

BAROLO: TRADITIONAL VS MODERN

2008

2 0 0 8

5

s a p o r i • 2 0 0 8 33

7 Time for ChangeOwner Chris Cannon opens up on the past of L’Impero and the future of Convivio.

11 The Trinity As bountiful ingredients in southern Italy, olives, capers, and anchovies stand out as the culinary trinity.

11 1613

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In reopening as Convivio, Michael White and Chris Cannon are recapturing a sense of fun, and highlighting the warmth and generosity that southern Italian food represents.

C O N V I V I OL’ I M P E R O B E C O M E S

12 Meet VinnyVinny the Octopus Guy helps these eight-armed invertebrates take center stage on the plate.

13 No Ordinary ButcherPat LaFrieda is setting new standards for the Chef–Butcher relationship, and it’s all great for what’s on your plate.

15 BaroloTasting the difference between the lean and austere “traditional” Barolos and the opulent, dark-colored “modern” ones.

16 The Italian JobA traditional digestivo, the bitter liqueur amaro, is making its way into satisfying before-dinner cocktails.

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In the last few months since the opening of Convivio, a number of customers have stopped at the door and asked the question, “Why did you change the name of the restaurant?” Some have been quite upset, citing their love of L’Impero and warning me that their meal had better be good! I consequently feel the need to explain the thought process behind a change that, to some, might seem counterintuitive, given the success of a restaurant that rated three stars in the New York Times and won a James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in the US in 2002.

A Conviv iAl TransformaTion!OPEN LETTER FROM

CHRIS CANNON

2 0 0 8 • s a p o r i2 0 0 8 • C O N V I V I O610 2 0 0 8 • s a p o r i6

“By reopening as Convivio, I’ve been able to rethink the menu, giving me the opportunity to implement my culinary vision and interpretation of southern Italian cuisine with flavorful and soulful dishes.”

—Chef Michael White

s a p o r i • 2 0 0 8 711C O N V I V I O • 2 0 0 8 11

I originally opened L’Impero in 2002 as a

restaurant that would provide a high standard

of service and cuisine at a reasonable price.

Our original prix fixe menu was $48 for a four-

course menu of antipasto, primi, secondi, and

dessert. You could, of course, order à la carte

as well, but we felt that we wanted to push

our diners into ordering the traditional Italian

meal as opposed to eating pasta as a main

course or appetizer, as is common in the

United States. The response was fantastic, as

the restaurant was packed with enthusiastic

diners from day one. Over the years, the prix

fixe became costlier as we began to use

more expensive products in order to satisfy

our mistaken perception of what a three-star

restaurant should be. Eventually, I felt the

restaurant lost the conviviality and bustle

that made each and every meal feel special.

In reopening as Convivio, Michael White and

I are trying to recapture that sense of fun

that was lost, and to highlight the warmth

and sense of generosity that southern

Italian food represents. We have added a

whole new category of sfizi, or small tastes

to the menu, and in general increased the

selections by 40 percent and lowered our

prices by 15 percent.

As for the décor, we asked our partner,

Vicente Wolf, to simply fix some of the issues

or deficiencies that we had in the seating

layout of the room, and to, in general, give

the room a more youthful Italian flair. We

incorporated burnt-orange fabrics on the

banquettes and clad some of the columns

and walls in glass to give a more spacious

and airy feel to the dining experience. The

tabletop incorporates high-polished stainless

steel chargers and new dishes to complete

the transition.

Finally, we have revitalized the wine list with the help of

our excellent Sommelier Levi Dalton, who came to us

from stints at Masa and Daniel. The new list features an

extensive selection of very interesting southern Italian

indigenous varietals as well as New York’s first all-

Italian microbrew list and an excellent variety of amari.

The results speak for themselves. Our business is up

dramatically, customers are happy, and we are proud

to have received three stars from The New York Times

and New York magazine, and a mention as one of the

best new restaurants of the year from John Mariani at

Esquire magazine.

We hope to see you again soon, and thank you for all of

your support in the past.

s a p o r i • 2 0 0 8 7

Pat La Frieda Meats has been New York City’s purveyor of the Finest meats for three generations. Our close collaboration with chefs has been the cornerstone of thousands of enjoyable dining experiences. We pride ourselves on bringing the small farm to the big city by supporting family run producers so that the best quality and most Flavorful meats end on up on the diner’s plate.

Patrick LaFrieda - President Mark Pastore - Vice President

Congratulations to Chris Cannon

and Chef Michael White

on another successful New York

dining establishment.

s a p o r i • 2 0 0 8 9

viticoltori De Conciliis

making wine that feeds the soul

PerellA

The fiano grapes for the production

of Perella come from the oldest

vineyard of our estate.

inspired by ella Fitzgerald, it is an

assertive wine, yet suggestive; it

whispers but does not cry; it has

the gift of simplicity turned into

absolute profundity.

DesCriPTion:

straw in color. Peach, nuts,

and soy aromas followed by a

beautifully rounded, full-bodied,

and supple texture.

nAimA

naima epitomizes this part of the

Cilento. it is created here because it

is only here that it can happen. This

wine, whose name conjures up

Coltrane, is not a constructed

wine–it rejects any control, just

as the land it comes from.

DesCriPTion:

Dark garnet in color with

pronounced chocolate and coffee

aromas. Tannins are sweet and

soft, resulting in a velvety finish.

selim

Jazz music is our way of making wine.

We improvise the melodies of the grapes.

We make a unique performance of every

harvest. selim is like miles Davis in his

late phase: light and chilled out; only the

sound of his trumpet reminded listeners

of his sad ballads.

DesCriPTion:

selim shows a brilliant greenish yellow

color. The nose and palate denotes

intense, clean, and pleasing aromas

and flavors that start with hints of

pineapple, pear, and apple followed by

aromas of peach and tangerine.

KA!

our Ka! falls between the moscato wines

and the continental passiti wines. so

it brings with it the bright sea shades

of the islands and the rigorously

continental approach of the inland

regions, reflected in the selection of

the grapes, which are meticulously

removed by hand from their vines.

DesCriPTion:

The Ka! is a moscato Bianco Passito,

full with great flavors of flowers

and peaches.

2 0 0 8 • s a p o r i

T H E B U I L D I N G B L O C k S O F

S O U T H E R N I T A L I A N C U I S I N E

I N T H E k I T C H E N

if you sauté zucchini in olive oil, it would be delicious enough, but when you add a little garlic, you add and assert flavors

that make it even better.

There are a lot of misconceptions about southern ital-ian cooking. First, almost everything that it is noted for, including the beloved tomato, came from somewhere else but over thousands of years has been incorporat-ed into a unique cooking style. most Americans think southern italian food is ziti and red sauce, because those were the kind of dishes southern italian immi-grants made in the 1930s, ’40s, and ’50s. in reality, the

playbook is huge for southern italian food, from couscous to seafood, the use of mint, and sheep’s cheese, sausages,

and peppercinos. Pickling, preserving in vinegar, is a big part of their culture.

southern italy is not comprised of rich terrain, yet it yields a bounty of ingredients that produce

more pronounced flavors perhaps because of the extra effort needed to survive. ol-ive trees flourish best in limestone beds, tolerating drought thanks to sturdy root systems. Craggy hills drop to seascape borders; the kind of place you can find caper bushes growing with wild abandon. The waters on the sicilian coast teem with the herring’s cousin, the anchovy. These are the jewels of cooking, tiny additions that make the whole even more delectable.

with Chef Michael White

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Every cuisine has its building blocks: flavor builders that add depth to food. In France, you start with shallots, butter, thyme, and

bay leaves for the base of a sauce. In Italy, it’s garlic, onion, and oil; it’s tomatoes; it’s

the trinity: olives, capers, and anchovies.

s a p o r i • 2 0 0 8

T H E T R I N I T YO L I V E S . . . C A P E R S . . . A N D A N C H O V I E S , O H M Y !

OLIVESThe rugged olive tree hails from Greece and thrives in the similar climate—hot and dry—of southern Italy. An evergreen known for its silvery green leaves that have come to symbolize abundance, glory, and peace, its fruit is harvested late in the year, in November and December. The once-popular harvesting method or brucatura, pulling one olive at a time off full branches, has given way to using machines that clamp on the trunk to gently shake the tree, with netting around the base of the tree to catch the released olives. Due to their high acidic content, freshly picked olives can’t be consumed until they are fermented: cure dried with salt, brine, or oil or dry roasted. Best eaten at room temperature as an aperitif or generously added to pastas or meat dishes to build flavor.

ChEF WhITE’S FAVORITESCASTELVETRANO: My favorite olive by far because it has low brine. It’s a very meaty olive by way of Sicily—bright green in color and tastes like candy. They are not too salty, with sweetness to them. Take a heavy-bottomed pan, smash the olives, remove the pits, and you can spread it right onto toast—they are amazing. Because it’s not an aggressive-tasting olive, it’s awesome with fish. Eating a Castelvetrano gives you a different perspective on olives!

LIgURIAN BLACk OLIVE: From Liguria and similar in taste to a French niçoise olive. Handpicked in the hills of the Italian Riviera, these small brownish-black olives are cured in fresh, laurel-scented brine. Meaty with a full aromatic flavor.

gAETA: Small black olives that are wither dry-cured (making them wrinkle) or brine-cured (making them smooth and dark purple in color). Very flavorful.

COOkINg TIpS Don’t pair a strong-tasting olive like a Gaeta with a salty dish—like fish. Use olives to build and complement a dish. Warming them up in a pan with your meat or fish or pasta accentuates the flavor of the dish.

CApERSAlso introduced by the Greeks, caper bushes grow wild in coastal areas with a similar penchant for full sun as the olive tree. A perennial spiny shrub, its fruit—a dark olive-green bud the size of a kernel of maize—is also called a caper. Caper berries, the second bud of the plant, with seeds and a stamen, are also gaining popularity and, like the caper, are pickled before consumption in either salt or a salt-and-vinegar solution. This creates an intense pungent flavor best described as a combination of mustard and black pepper.

ChEF WhITE’S FAVORITESpANTELLERIA: These are the finest, without question! They come from a tiny volcanic island off the coast of Sicily, where they are pickled in salt. I find capers in salt have a more delicate flavor so that when you wash off the salt, there is more of the caper’s essence left intact. Capers can also lose some of their texture to brine as well.

COOkINg TIpS The beauty of capers is that, on the flavor spectrum, they can be sweet, sour, or salty. So if you don’t want to add a heavy taste, cook them out in your dish. Adding raw capers to the end of the cooking process brings more intensity to the plate.

Salmoriglio is a condiment that graces the Italian table just like ketchup does in America. It’s very versatile, consisting of anchovy, onion, oregano, lemon juice, and olive oil with a base of capers. It’s left out on the table in a bowl and pairs well with everything from steamed vegetables and chicken to fish.

ANChOVIESThis small, common saltwater fish, related to the herring, breeds abundantly in the temperate waters of the Mediterranean, although overfishing has become a source of concern in recent years. While fresh anchovies have a mild flavor, the stronger taste usually associated with these fish occurs due to the curing process. Anchovies are generally gutted, salted in brine, and later preserved in either salt or olive oil. They are added whole to dishes or salads or ground into a paste or “garum” for seasoning.

ChEF WhITE’S FAVORITESpORTO SALVO ANChOVIES: These are from Sicily and are the best you will ever eat because instead of being salty, they have sweetness to them. Red in color and cured with just enough salt and bottled in this amazing yellow oil, they are the Rolls Royce of anchovies. I’ve watched people eat them right out of the jar!

COOkINg TIpS Anchovies are so versatile, you can add them just about anywhere as a flavor-building block, and unlike capers and olives, they disintegrate when they cook out, so no one even knows when they are in a dish!

A great way to get the flavoring is by adding a few drops of Colatura di Alici from Cetara on the Amalfi Coast—the clarified drippings (blood and juices) of the anchovies. Use it as a substitute for salt in a recipe.

Make a puree and serve with radishes. Pour the anchovies into a blender and whip. You end up with a mayonnaise-like consistency: very light and frothy.

s a p o r i • 2 0 0 8 11

2 0 0 8 • s a p o r i12

O C T O P U S : F I N A L LY G E T T I N G A L I T T L E T E N D E R I Z I N G L O V I N G C A R E

P U R V E Y O R S

Vincent Cutrone, owner of the Octopus Garden in

Brooklyn, a specialty fish market, credits the ballooning

food explosion in general for elevating the status of

octopus. “It has to do with quality food on the exotic side,”

he explains. “People are more disposed to experiment.

True, they still grimace when they see it, but they are at

least willing to taste it. I wouldn’t be surprised if you find

prepared octopus in supermarkets in the future.”

In the meantime, don’t fret: cephalopods dot the menus

of many of New York’s finest dining establishments

(including both Convivio and Alto). Word of mouth

accounts for the bulk of his business, with celebrity

chefs who are lured in by the product and hooked on his

processing techniques.

“Now, don’t try this at home,” laughs Vincent, as he

recounts stories of people who have tried to tenderize

octopus and cuttlefish in washing machines. “You’ll

end up with a very rusty machine in no time at all”—

not to mention a stinky one as well! His storefront in

Brooklyn houses a battery of custom-made machines

that basically paddle the fleshy mass into a palatable

state. One machine resembles a cradle, upon which a

container of salt water and ice and octopus is affixed.

As the cradle rocks back and forth, the motion allows

Once relegated to the position of that mysterious sea monster of the depths, and always on the receiving end of squeamish faces on sight, these eight-armed invertebrates are finally getting their due: center stage on the dinner plate.

the water to act like waves pounding the

creature into submission! Another machine is

equipped with paddles that sway back and

forth in a semicircular fashion, beating the

octopus with salty brine.

“This is not a new concept; ever since

humankind has taken octopus out of the sea,

they have tenderized it before consuming it.

Along the coast of the Mediterranean, they

beat them against the rocks in the salty

water. We recreated the technique through

our machines.”

Vinny’s octopi mainly come from the northern

Atlantic, off the coast of Africa, near the

Canary Islands, waters governed by strict

European Union rules. “Sustainable fishing is

the goal: the E.U. is careful not to let certain

areas get overfished. Plus, between October

and January, the season is closed.” Once the

octopi are taken out of the water, they are

immediately placed in blast freezers. “An item

that comes to us ‘fresh’ will take a minimum

of two to three days, and I don’t regard that as

fresh anymore. So it’s better they are shipped

frozen.” Although octopi do change color as a

defense mechanism, Vinny suggests picking

out ones that are white and crispy looking.

“Red is a sign of oxidation. Avoid that. Usually

after an octopus has been tenderized, it curls

into a ball and looks beautiful.”

While Vinny enjoys eating his octopus at such

restaurants as Convivio and Alto—“I like

seeing what people come up with”—he’s

happy to eat them, simply prepared, at home

as well. “I cut up larger ones into pieces,

throw them into a sauce made of onions and

tomatoes, and let it steep in there for half an

hour or so. Large octopi are perfect for salads.

The smaller ones—half-pounders or so—

can be eaten whole, either grilled, boiled, or

marinated. I usually slice them open on one

side, throw them on a hot grill for up to 10

minutes per side, and dress them in olive oil

and lemon.” With less than 1 percent of fat,

they are a perfect meal. “I was recently in

Italy, where you eat octopus raw after they

are tenderized with just a little lemon and

bread. Perfecto!”

Look for Vinny’s octopi to make their small-screen debut on

this season’s Iron Chef!

s a p o r i • 2 0 0 8 13

Mark Pastore, Pat’s first cousin whose own

family has always been in the meat business

and who himself has racked up seven years

with the company, surmises they service

about 500 restaurant accounts each week.

“Our chefs come to us primarily by word of

mouth, which is really the best way to do

business in this town,” he explains. “When

you have great chefs like Michael White

turning around and telling others about us, it

becomes a snowball effect.” Mark is proud

of the company’s relationships with their

chef-clients. LaFrieda has no sales people;

it is the butchers themselves who maintain

each connection, and where the bond of trust

begins.

In a world where quality and sustainability

go hand in hand, all the animals they bring

in are humanely raised on smaller farms in

upstate New York or the Midwest. All their

veal comes from Amish or Mennonite farms

in Pennsylvania, for example, where Mark

routinely heads in order to check overall

It’s printed on the side on his building in a bubble above a chicken—but don’t stop with their poultry. pat LaFrieda Meats has rapidly gained status for their amazing custom cuts and product-line selections that make them the choice boutique meat supplier to New York’s top eateries.

conditions. “I shine upon farms that are full

circle: they grow what they feed their animals.

I prefer when everything is sustained based

on one piece of land with one family or group

of people in charge; I don’t like outsourcing.

And since meat is a delicate item, how an

animal is handled—raised, harvested, and

brought to me—is a very important part of

the process.”

The LaFrieda goal is to encourage people

to enjoy life through great meals at fine

restaurants by supplying a product that is just

not available at home. And therein lies the

relationship with the chef. At Convivio, there

is even a special pork chop named after Mark.

“I would always tell Chef White about a pork

chop I wanted from the end of the rib, which

is closest to the chuck, that has an extra piece

of meat on it. It’s so juicy and tender and

anyone in the meat business always goes

for it. Michael added it to his menu based on

my recommendation.” The chop comes from

a special signature line called Hampshire,

a heritage Berkshire breed that originally came from

England and today is sustainably raised on three small

farms out of the Midwest. It is 100 percent antibiotic

free, hormone free, free-pasture-raised pork.

Mark obviously enjoys his rapport with Chef White

and Chris Cannon, whose restaurants he likens to a

magic show because “you never know what’s up their

sleeves, but you’re always pleasantly surprised!” The

most unusual dish Chef White ever served him was a

whole veal tongue on a bed of risotto. “It was cute and

clever, just looking straight at me, but I have to say it was

also wonderful, like everything else Chef creates.” He

recommends the veal chop, also from the Amish milk-

fed line, as well as White’s whole suckling pig.

“Chef White roasts Duroc pigs whole, and they are

great,” adds Mark. The animals are raised on a family-

owned farm in the Hudson Valley. “Duroc pigs are a rich

breed that marbles and muscles well. And at 20 to 50

pounds each, you can actually get them into an oven!”

LaFrieda Meats are based in Manhattan’s Lower West

Village and have served the New York area for over

90 years.

For more information, visit www.lafrieda.com.

L a F R I E D A S AY S “EAT MY MEAT” AND NEW YORkERS ARE HAPPY TO COMPLY

2 0 0 8 • s a p o r i

W I N E

14

A B IT ABOUT

B A R O L O E R I C Z I L L I E R , S O M M E L I E R AT A LT O

The name “Barolo” is a Celtic derivation for wood or

orchard (brolio or brol). Barolo’s popularity has brought

with it many misconceptions about what it is, or what it

is supposed to be. Varied winemaking styles, from the

lean and austere “traditional” Barolos to the opulent,

dark-colored “modern” ones, makes it very difficult to

make sweeping characteristic generalizations about

the wine.

Barolo is produced in the region of Piemonte in the

northwestern corner of Italy, nestled between two

major mountain chains: the Alps to the north and the

Apennines to the south. The region’s altitude plays a

definite factor, ranging from 800 to 1400 feet, but the

critical issue is the grape’s exposure to the sun, since

the late ripening grape of Barolo, nebbiolo, struggles

to ripen even in the best of climes. For this reason, the

exposure of the grapes in the Piedmont hills is chosen

very carefully to capture as much sunlight as possible,

the best being south-southwest. Hence, words like

bricco (hilltop) or sori (slope) figure into many of the

labels in the region.

To qualify for the Barolo DOCG (Denominazione di

Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest quality

level recognized within Italy, there is a lengthy list of

criteria that must be met: geographic zone, soil type,

yield (how many tons of grapes per acre), clones of

nebbiolo allowed (Michet, Lampia, and Rose), and even

Never before have the wines of Italy been in such high demand in the U.S. Among the most well known of these is Barolo. Recognized for its ageability, structure, and balance, Barolo hails from arguably the greatest of Italian wine regions.

the type and size of the bottle (no less than

350cc). It is further decreed that the wine

have the color of “red garnet with orange

reflections”; have an odor of “perfume”

that is “ethereal, agreeable[, and] intense”;

and a “dry, full, robust, austere but velvety,

[and] harmonious” flavor. A government-

regulated panel tastes the wines of Barolo

to ensure that these specifications have

been met. In addition, all Barolo must be

aged for no less than three years, two of

which must be in oak. For a “Riserva,” the

wine must be aged for no less than five

years. These requirements are due to the

fact that nebbiolo naturally contains high

levels of acidity and tannin that tend to

soften over time.

There are 11 townships that produce

Barolo, five of which comprise 87 percent

of overall production. These are La Morra,

Barolo, Castiglione di Falletto, Serralunga

d’Alba, and Monforte d’Alba. The western

part of Barolo (La Morra and Barolo) makes

for more elegant, perfumed wine because

of the limestone clay soil, while the eastern

part of the region (Castiglione di Falletto,

Serralunga, and Monforte) produces more

robust, powerful, tannic wines due to

sandstone-based soils. A reason for this

difference is that the bluish soil (due to

manganese and magnesium) in the west is

younger and more fertile, whereas the soil

in the east is older, Helvetian soil, with more

iron. The less vigorous soil tends to slow

the growth of the vines to make for a more

powerful, age worthy wine.

Not unlike pinot noir or riesling, nebbiolo

has the potential to reflect the terroir more

purely than many other grapes. In the mid

19th century, Camillo Cavour (who was also

instrumental in the unification of Italy in

1861) called upon French oenologist Louis

Oudart to transform nebbiolo into something

more structured and age worthy since,

until then, most of the wines from the area

were sweet. Mr. Oudart was well aware of

the relationship between the soil and the

finished wine. Enjoyed by the nobles of

Turin and the House of Savoy, Barolo soon

earned the nickname “the wine of kings,

the king of wines.”

By the 1930s, the best areas for making

Barolo had been identified. The next

important chapter in its history happened in

the 1960s. A group of visionary winemakers

made a concerted effort to improve the wines

of Barolo. Partially influenced by Burgundian

s a p o r i • 2 0 0 8 1515

winemakers, with whom they consulted,

a new focus on vineyard-specific Barolo

emerged. Some winemakers learned these

new techniques while others steadfastly

held to ancient practices. Two schools of

Barolo emerged: the “traditionalists” and

the “modernists.”

Traditional practices include long skin

maceration (where the skins of the grapes

are in contact with the unfermented juice),

the use of large Slovenian oak casks called

botti for aging, and no temperature control

during fermentation. The oxidation of the

must, or freshly pressed grape juice, during

this type of maceration actually lightens the

wine and increases tannins, causing the

wine to become brick or orange in color.

This process can also add other bacterial

odors. For some, these odors are a classic

trait of traditional Barolo; to others, these

aromas can be off-putting. Extended

bottle aging, sometimes 20 years or

more, is necessary to soften the tannins in

traditional Barolo. The best of these wines

can have an incredible aging potential of 50

years or more. Elements of earth, tar, and

rose can make for wines with unparalleled

structure. Some feel these wines are the

most accurate reflection of the terroir of the

respective communes. From a marketing

point of view, however, these wines are

difficult because they take so long to age

and don’t always get big scores from the

press.

The modernists, on the other hand, are

associated with shorter, temperature-

controlled fermentations and less barrel

aging to encourage more fruit and softer

tannins. Other methods are also employed

to bring out the fruit and give the wine more

color intensity, such as using small French

barrels, called barrique, with a high toast

(where the inside of the barrel is charred

to a great degree) to impart a darkness to

the wine. Limiting the fermenting wine’s

exposure to oxygen also produces a Barolo

with brighter, more intense, clean fruit

flavors. At one point, there was even a

movement to reduce the amount of nebbiolo

to 90 percent to allow for the addition of

other international varieties that would

make the wines even richer. This effort

mercifully failed. Modernist Barolo wines

are often more blue in color than garnet.

The increase of glycerin and extracted

fruit make for a rich, bold wine that is

considerably heavier than the wines of the

traditionalists. In addition to rose, hints of

vanilla, spice, and plum appear. The downside is that

it is not always clear where the wines come from

due to excessive oak and extraction. With age, these

elements can integrate to exhibit a decadent side

while remaining true representatives of the commune

from which they came. There is some debate as to

how these wines will age since the tannins are softer

in modern Barolo. Time will tell.

When you are looking for a Barolo, keep in mind that

there are many different styles. From the lean, austere

Burgundian to the rich, decadent modern, there is

happily a Barolo out there for everyone.

ExAMpLES OF TRAdITIONAL pROdUCERS

Bartolo mascarello

Giacomo Conterno

vietti

Bruno Giacosa

ExAMpLES OF MOdERN pROdUCERS

Paolo scavino

sandrone

moccagatta

Domenico Clerico

Other great producers Whose Wines have BOTh TRAdITIONAL ANd MOdERN TRAITS

Aldo Conterno

Pio Cesare

Ceretto

Prunotto

Gaja

2 0 0 8 • s a p o r i16

B E H I N D T H E B A R

1 lime

1.5 oz Averna Amaro

1 oz Plymouth Gin

mint leaf

ice

Cut the lime into four equal pieces. Muddle three wedges in a shaker with

the Averna and the Plymouth. Fill the shaker with ice, and shake. Pour

entire contents of shaker into a rocks glass. Garnish with a mint leaf.

Amari, Italy’s traditional bitter liqueurs, are usually consumed as a digestivo, but are now finding their way into cocktails, especially in the United States. Brewed with an often secret mix of herbs, roots, flowers, and other botanicals, the concoction is left to macerate in a neutral spirit before being distilled. horvath chose Averna, a Sicilian amaro, for The Italian Job cocktail because of its bright and refreshing characteristics, which highlight the addition of blood orange and lemon peels to its aromatic base of herbs.

THE ITALIAN JOB ALTO’S BARTENDER DANIEL HORVATH

The PhilosoPher enTrePreneur

Thirty years ago, a successful industrialist decided to devote himself to his great passion: wine-making. And so began a fascinating and complex story of three very important estates in Tuscany.

The purchase and restoration of an •historic monastery (dating from 1000) at Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the heart of the Siena Chianti Classico area, the present day Castello di Monastero.

Montalcino, the homeland of one of the •most famous wines in the world, saw the acquisition and renovation of the Coldisole estate.

Lastly, the foundation of • Poggio alle Sughere in the Tuscan Maremma area.

2008 Distributed by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. Harrison NY 10604 wjdeutsch.com

MAR AD Convivo.indd 1 11/7/08 4:36:48 PM

2 0 0 8 • s a p o r i18

RESTAURANT LOCATIONS

Publisher MICHAEL GOLDMAN

Editor-in-Chief PAMELA JOUAN

Design Director JANA POTASHNIk BAIRDesign, Inc.

Managing Editor CHRISTIAN kAPPNER

Assistant Editor STEPHANE HENRION

Copy Editor kELLY SUZAN WAGGONER

Contributing Writers PAMELA JOUAN CHRIS CANNON

Photo Director CHARLES HARRIS

Photography MELISSA HOM

Advertising advertising@hautelifepress.com

Marketing Director kATHERINE PAYNE

HauteLife Press a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC. 321 Dean Street Suite 1 Brooklyn, NY 11217

www.hautelifepress.com info@hautelifepress.com

Subscription Inquiries 718.858.1187 subscriptions@hautelifepress.com or visit www.hautelifepress.com

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HauteLife Press makes every effort to ensure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.

© 2008 All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

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t. 212.308.1099

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t. 212.599.5045

CERETTO

The Ceretto winery was founded in the 1920s but really came to prominence

under the leadership of Bruno and Marcello Ceretto in the 1970s. The Ceretto brothers are credited with bottling

the first single-vineyard cru Barolo in 1982, Bricco Rocche. Ceretto also produces several Barbarescos and a traditional lineup of Piemontese wines: dolcetto, barbera, moscato, and a popular arneis.

GLENMORANGIE SIGNET

Glenmorangie Signet is probably the most groundbreaking innovation in the world of single malts for decades. At the heart of its creation is a high-roasted

“chocolate” malt that provides rich, dark, and powerful flavors no whisky has ever been able to balance so beautifully.

Signet is created from a secret combination of some of the rarest and oldest whiskies from Glenmorangie’s archives and reveals hints of amaretto, dark chocolate, and espresso.

HOT BREAD kITCHEN

One part bakery, one part social cause, Hot Bread kitchen offers fresh breads baked according to traditional recipes from around the world. They hand-grind their own cornmeal to make authentic corn tortillas, bake European-style breads such as baguettes and multigrain loaves, and produce organic wheat-flour lavash in their own style to create a crispy cracker topped with a variety of seeds and spices. Their social objective is to offer new professional opportunities to immigrant women while preserving baking traditions—a very good excuse to eat more bread from Hot Bread kitchen. hotbreadkitchen.org.

MADE TO TASTE.COM

MadeToTaste.com is an online shopping destination that offers a curated selection of chef-created and chef-related products. Imagine shopping in a chef’s pantry for food products, kitchen tools and accessories, and cookbooks! MadeToTaste.com also features chef demonstration videos, recipes, and wine and cocktail pairings.

hAUTENOTES From the publisher, Haute Notes is about the discovery of all things innovative

and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.

hAUTEVINE hAUTECASk hAUTETASTE hAUTENOTEWORTHY

SNEAk pEEk OF MAREA

Chris Cannon’s latest project with partner Chef

Michael White is called Marea, opening early

2009. The name is an ode to the four bodies of

water that surround Italy and will feature a menu

dedicated to fresh fish and seafood in a chic,

urban space—picture sleek design with gleaming

woods, buttery leathers, and Italian fabrics. Chef

White will continue his tradition of house-made

pastas and will also feature an extensive crudo

menu. Cannon is personally designing the wine

list: a significant assortment of European whites

along with specially matched reds to go with the

sea-oriented menu.What makes an excellent wine? Is it great terroir or the master’s touch? Is it the gentle slope of the vineyard or the complexity that only time can lend to barrel aging? With a spectrum of exceptional accomplishment across regions, vineyards and producers, Italy continues to produce classic icons that serve as benchmarks for exquisite wines throughout the world.

Come share our enthusiasm for the excellence of Italian wine.

Excellence In

Italian Wine

BOLLINI | CAPOSALDO | CAMPO AL MARE | CASTELLO DEL TERRICCIOFERNANDO PIGHIN & FIGLI | FEUDO MACCARI | MICHELE CHIARLO | TENUTE DEL CABREO

TENUTA LA FUGA | TENUTA DI NOZZOLE | TENUTA DI SALVIANO | TENUTA SAN GUIDO TENUTA SETTE PONTI | TENUTE SILVIO NARDI | TORCALVANO

THE ITALIAN WINES OF KOBRAND

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Italy_ad_portfolio_1208.indd 1 12/5/08 9:44:43 AM

What makes an excellent wine? Is it great terroir or the master’s touch? Is it the gentle slope of the vineyard or the complexity that only time can lend to barrel aging? With a spectrum of exceptional accomplishment across regions, vineyards and producers, Italy continues to produce classic icons that serve as benchmarks for exquisite wines throughout the world.

Come share our enthusiasm for the excellence of Italian wine.

Excellence In

Italian Wine

BOLLINI | CAPOSALDO | CAMPO AL MARE | CASTELLO DEL TERRICCIOFERNANDO PIGHIN & FIGLI | FEUDO MACCARI | MICHELE CHIARLO | TENUTE DEL CABREO

TENUTA LA FUGA | TENUTA DI NOZZOLE | TENUTA DI SALVIANO | TENUTA SAN GUIDO TENUTA SETTE PONTI | TENUTE SILVIO NARDI | TORCALVANO

THE ITALIAN WINES OF KOBRAND

©20

09 K

obra

nd C

orpo

rati

on, N

ew Y

ork,

N.Y

. w

ww

.kob

rand

win

eand

spir

its.

com

Italy_ad_portfolio_1208.indd 1 12/5/08 9:44:43 AM