Sapogel QPalm Free Balm Textures

Sapogel QBalm textures using Saponins

INCI: Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract

Sapogel is a liquid blend that allows the formulator to make stable, translucent, rich balms with the texture of lanolin or petroleum jelly.

What are Saponins?

The term ‘Saponin’ derives from the Latin Sapo – meaning SoapSaponins are found naturally in many different plants such as beans, chick peas, quinoa, oats and soy and are thought to have many health benefits in terms of reduction of cholesterol and anti-oxidant properties.

Typical structure of a saponin. The hydrophilic part with many hydroxyl groups can clearly be identified, and a hydrophobic part.There are around 12 types of saponin that have been identified, but there are thought to be many that have not been isolated or characterised. The complex mixture gives saponins their unique stabilising ability. Hydrophilic part

Hydrophobic part

Quillaja Saponins

A sustainable story…..

Quillaja trees grow in a managed plantation in Chile consisting of trees that are systematically pruned to achieve large amounts of biomass – the whole plant is used in the extraction of Quillaja Saponins. The Quillaja is classed as ‘wild harvested’.The extraction factory is environmentally optimised and has won awards for this.

New trees are constantly planted as they take 15 years to achieve maturity. Prunings are taken from the mature trees.

Quillaja Saponins

Extraction Process:

Prunings from the mature trees on the plantation

Biomass soaked in hot water to extract saponins

Filtration, pasteurisation Spray drying –finished product

Drying of Biomass

Biomass burntto heat water

Soapwort Saponins

Soapwort is a common hardy flowering plant that grows in many regions of the world and has been widely used by mankind for millennia for personal washing and washing clothing. It was grown by Romans and planted around Roman baths. The saponins in Soapwort are very gentle and suitable for sensitive skin and babies. The soapwort used in Sapogel Q is wild harvested and both roots and leaves are extracted for the saponins.

Features of Sapogel Q Balms

• All natural formulations possible• Safe, mild, food grade materials

used• No palm derived components • Variable textures possible from

honey to thick balms• Wide range of oils can be gelled

but particularly suitable for vegetable oils

• Cold Process manufacturing

Typical Simple Formula

Phase ASapogel® 20%*

Phase BOil (Veg Oil, ester, silicone) 80%

Phase COther additives (perfume, colour etc.) qs

*Average Amount. 15% = firm balm, 25% = Honey texture.*Texture and Viscosity are highly dependent on the oil used.

SAPOGEL® : MAKING A GELMethod

1 2 3

4 5 6

Weigh out Sapogel® into a suitable beaker and oil into a separate beaker. If solids are used in the oil phase these need to be melted.

Transfer onto an overhead mixer fitted with propeller blade and set to high speed (1000 rpm)

Start stirring and add oil very slowly dropwise for first 10% of the oil.

Continue adding oil in portions, allowing gel to reform between additions.

Mixture will thicken rapidly A firm gel or balm is formed.

Viscosities and Texture

Different viscosities and texture can be achieved depending on level of Sapogel used:

Oil Used Viscosity (Spindle 94, sp 10)

20% 25%

Sunflower 121400 33200

Olive 73000 38200

Rapeseed 83600 22400

Fractionated Coconut 164400 113200

Squalane 185200 127400

All samples above were stable at 50°C for 3 months

Superior Stability of Sapogel Q Gels

Heat StabilityGels stored at 50°C for 3 months: Full stability for duration of test

Freeze / ThawGels were placed in a domestic freezer (ca. – 10°C) for 24 hours. They were removed for 24 hours and allowed to thaw to 20°C.Above repeated 3 times: Full stability for duration of test

Acids / BasesCitric Acid solution and Sodium Hydroxide solution were added to gels and no adverse effects were seen.

Addition of other ingredients

GlycerineThins down the gel (useful for 15% gels)Gives a flowable, honey like texture

WaterUp to 4% can be used. Thins down the gel and gives it an opaque appearance. Can make concentrated serums etc.

Powders / ExfoliatorsEasily dispersed in the gel. Acidic / alkaline exfoliators can also be used.

SEM Images of Various Oil Gels

Sapogel Q:Layered structure, no individual oil droplets visible

Sucragel:Small oil droplets, uniform size

HIPEgel Oleo:Larger oil droplets, greater size distribution

Sapogel Lamellar Structure Theory

Comparison of Sapogel, Sucragel & HIPEgel Oleo

12 Hour Cream

Method:Weigh out Sapogel Q (Phase A) into one beaker. Weigh out Phase B and heat to approx. 70°C until all components have melted. Add Phase B very slowly to Phase A until a thick gel is formed. Cool to room temperature and add Phase C.

Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w

A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract

20

B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 5.0

B Fractionated Coconut Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 50

B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 24.5

C Mango Lip Code 692-0 Fragrance

Fragrance 0.3

C FD & C Red 2 CI 16185 0.05

C FD & C Yellow 6 CI 15985 0.15

Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w

A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract

20

B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 79.25

C Rose Essential Oil Pelargonium Graveolens Oil 0.5

C FD & C Red 5 CI 14700 0.25

Rose Lip MaskA long lasting balm that can be applied to lips at night and leave them moisturised in the morning.

Weigh Sapogel into a suitable beaker and Phase B in another beaker. Slowly incorporate Phase B into Sapogel. Then add Phase C.

Vanilla Body Balm

Method:Weigh out Sapogel Q (Phase A) into one beaker. Weigh out Phase B and heat to approx. 70°C until all components have melted. Add Phase B very slowly to Phase A until a thick gel is formed. Cool to room temperature and add Phase C.

Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w

A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract

20

B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 40.0

B Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 2.5

B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 14.9

B Fractionated Coconut Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 22.5

C Vanilla Spice Fragrance

Fragrance 0.1

Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w

A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract

25.0

B Fractionated Coconut Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 70.5

C Tea Tree Essential Oil Melaleuca Alternafolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil 0.5

C Juniper Essential Oil Juniperus Communis Fruit Oil 0.5

C Volcanic Sand Exfoliator 300

Volcanic Sand 3.0

C FD & C Blue 1 & Yellow 6

CI 42090, CI 15985 0.5

Black Lava Sand ScrubA stimulating scrub with black lava particles and essential oils.

Weigh Sapogel into a suitable beaker and Phase B in another beaker. Slowly incorporate Phase B into Sapogel. Then add Phase C.

Applications

• Lipbalms• Balm Cleansers• Body Balms• Scrubs, including salt/sugar• Face masks• Concentrated skin serums / creams• Hair / Beard Balms

Thankyou!