Samurai Castles: History / Architecture / Visitors’ Guides
Transcript of Samurai Castles: History / Architecture / Visitors’ Guides
MatsumotoCastle
OsakaCastle
KumamotoCastle
SAMURAICASTLESHISTORY|ARCHITECTURE|VISITORS’GUIDES
JENNIFERMITCHELHILLPHOTOSBYDAVIDGREEN
ContentsPrefaceIntroducingJapan’sSamuraiCastlesAHistoryoftheJapaneseCastleTheDesignofaJapaneseCastle
VISITINGJAPAN’SFINESTCASTLES
KumamotoCastleHimejiCastleHikoneCastleNijoCastleOsakaCastleKanazawaCastleOkayamaCastleIyoMatsuyamaCastleMatsumotoCastleMatsueCastleKochiCastleBitchu-MatsuyamaCastleInuyamaCastleHiroshimaCastleMarugameCastleNagoyaCastleEdoCastleMaruokaCastleHirosakiCastleWakayamaCastleFukuyamaCastleHagiCastleTakedaCastleFortGoryokaku
Japan’s100MostImportantCastlesGlossaryPhotoCredits
Preface
JustbeforethelargestclashofsamuraiinJapanesehistory,attheBattleofSekigaharain1600,Chiyo,thewifeofsamuraiYamauchiKatsutoyo,wroteherhusbandaletter,concealingitinthechinstrapofamessenger’shat.
TheBattleofSekigahara,foughtbetweenthetwomajorpowers,theToyotomiandtheTokugawa,wastodecidethefateofJapanforthenext268years.Thesideonwhichasamuraichosetofightwoulddeterminehisfateandthatofhisfamilyforgenerationstocome.Thestakeswerehighandloyaltiesrandeep.Tofightonthelosingsidemeantlossofterritory,lossofone’smasterandthelifeofawandering,masterlesssamuraicalledronin.Victorycouldhavegoneeitherway.ItwasfinallydeterminedbythebetrayalofaToyotomiloyalistgeneralwhodefectedtotheTokugawasideinthemidstofthebattle.
Chiyohadreceivedwordofthepotentialbetrayal.Herhusband,Yamauchi,hadservedunderthegreatsixteenth-centuryleaderOdaNobunagaandhissuccessor,ToyotomiHideyoshi.HerletterrelayedvitalinformationaboutToyotomiforcesandsuggestedherhusbandswitchallegiance.Fortuitously,KatsutoyotookheradviceandfoughtonthewinningTokugawaside.Asareward,hewasmadefirstlordoftheprovinceofTosaontheislandofShikoku.WithChiyo,heconstructedKochiCastle,beginningtheYamauchidynastywhere16consecutivegenerationsruledTosaoverthefollowing268years.InrecognitionofChiyo’sefforts,todayabronzestatueofKatsutoyo’swisewifewatchesovertheapproachtothemaincitadel.
Japanesecastlesarerichinstoriesofintrigue,sacrificeandbetrayal.TheystandasmajesticmonumentstothesamuraiwhoonceruledJapan.
Some160,000samuraifoughtinthebattleofSekigaharaonOctober21,1600todeterminethesupremerulerofJapan.TheEasternArmyledbyTokugawaIeyasu,andtheWesternArmyledbyIshidiMitsunari,eachcomprisedallieddaimyo(feudallords)fromprovincesalloverJapan.ThebannerspaintedonthisJapanesescreenshowthefamilycrestofthe40orsodaimyo’s
armieswhotookpartinthebattle.Afteradayoffightingandthelossof40,000lives,TokugawaIeyasudeclaredvictory.Thusbeganthe268-yearruleofJapanbytheTokugawashogunate.
(LateEdoera,19thcentury.CollectionoftheCityofGifuMuseumofHistory)
IntroducingJapan’sSamuraiCastles
Japanesecastlesasweknowthemtodaywerepredominantlybuiltinthelatesixteenthcentury.Thiswasatimewhenwarriorsintroducedthemselvesbeforeengaginginhand-to-handcombat,whenhonorcouldberestoredbyslicingopenone’sabdomen,andwhengreatattentionwaspaidtotheritualsoftheteaceremony,poetrywritinganddying.
Regionalwarlordshadbeenfightingoverterritoryfromabout1470.Bythemid-sixteenthcentury,afewwereanxioustounifythecountryandsecureabsolutepower.Thecentralcharacterswerelargerthanlifeandstoriesoftheircourage,skillandsheeraudacityhaveentertainedgenerationsforover400years.AmongthemwereOdaNobunaga(1534–82),theruthlessyouthwhousedcourageandexceptionalmilitaryskilltosubdueenemieswitharmiesfivetimesthesizeofhis;ToyotomiHideyoshi(1536–98),thepoorpeasantboywhorosetorulethecountry;andTokugawaIeyasu(1542–1616),theshrewdwarlordwhoworkedquietlyinthebackground,waitingpatientlybeforetakingcontrolofthecountry.
OneofthemostimposinglegaciesofthisperiodistheJapanesecastle.Duringthescrambletounifythecountry,daimyo(lordsofadomain)builtcastlestoprotecttheirterritoryandactasabasefromwhichtoruletheirdomain.Representativeofadaimyo’spowerandwealth,thesegrandfortresseswerecunninglyplannedtoconfusetheenemyontheirapproachtothemainkeep.Shouldanattackingarmysuccessfullycrossamoatandscaletheouterstonewalls,numerousshootingholesandtrapdoorsallowedthebesiegedsamuraitobringtheirweaponstobearonthosebelow.Constructedpredominantlyofwood,thevulnerablemainbuildingswereadornedwithsymbolstowardofftheenemy,fireandtheelements.
Ofthehundredsofcastlesbuiltinthelatesixteenthandearlyseventeenthcentury,onlyahandfulhavesurvivedintheiroriginalcondition.HundredswereorderedtobedemolishedwhenthecountrywasunifiedbyToyotomiHideyoshiin1582.HundredsmoreweredestroyedbytheTokugawashogunate(military
government)in1615.Themajorityoftheremaining170orsocastlesfellvictimtoImperialorderstodestroyanytraceofJapan’sfeudalpastaftertheMeijiRestorationin1868.AlliedbombingduringWorldWarIIrazedsevenofthe19remainingmaincastletowers(tenshu),leavingcountlesssubsidiarytowers,stonewalls,gatesandmoats.
The100orsocastlesitesthatcanbevisitedtodayofferafascinatingglimpseintoJapan’spast.ThisbookexplainsthehistoricalbackgroundtoJapanesecastles,whobuiltthemandwhy.Itdescribestheirconstructionandtheirform.Finally,itpresents24ofthebestsurvivingcastles.
Japanesecastleswereasmuchasymbolofpowerasafortification.Themultistoriedmaintower(tenshu),withitsgracefularrangementofsweepingroofs,dominatedthesurroundinglandscape.Usuallysitedonraisedground,thetowerservedbothasalookoutandasareminderofthelord’s
authority.(HiroshimaCastle)
AHistoryoftheJapaneseCastle
TheSiegeofOsakaCastle.AlthougheffectivelybecomingthemostpowerfuldaimyoafterhisvictoryattheBattleofSekigaharain1600,TokugawahegemonywasnotassureduntilToyotomiHideyoshi’sheir,Hideyori,wasdisposedof.Inthewinterof1614,thenagaininthesummerof1615,TokugawaforcesbesiegedOsakaCastle.ThisscreenshowstheSummerBattleofOsakaCastlein1615.Over5,000samuraiand21generalsaredepicted.Oneofthegenerals,Kuroda
Nagamasa,tookpainterswithhimtothebattlesitetoobtainanauthenticrenditionofevents.
LongbeforetheJapanesecastleasweknowittodaytookshape,simplefortificationswereusedasadefenseagainstinvadingforcesandinternalwarringfactions.TheiruseisfirstrecordedintheNihonShoki(ChroniclesofJapan),writtenintheeighthcentury.TheNihonShokidetailsthefightbetweentwopowerfulcourtfamilies,theSogaandtheMononobe,inAD580.TheirdisagreementconcernedBuddhism,introducedviaKoreain552.TheSogawelcomedthenewreligionwhiletheMononobesawitasathreattotheirpoliticalinfluence.
Earlydefenseswereprimitive.TheNihonShokinotesthattheSogabuiltmansionssurroundedbypalisadesandmoats,whereastheMononobeusedbundlesofriceplants(inaka)asprotectionagainstthearrowsfromenemyarchers.RemainsfromtheseearlyfortificationscanstillbefoundthroughoutJapan.
Inthemid-seventhcentury,theJapaneseimperialcourt,whichruledfromYamato,nearNara,beganpushingnorthintotheEzoterritoriesinanattempttoexpandtheareaundertheircontrol.(TheEzoareancestorsoftheAinupeopleinHokkaido).Smallpalisades(saku)andstockades(ki)werebuiltnearNiigatain647.TheEzorespondedbybuildingearthenrampartsanddrymoats.Thefortificationswerecalledchashi,anAinuwordforcastle.
UnrestalongtheKoreanpeninsulainthelateseventhcenturysparkedfearsofaninvasionfromChina.Rowsofstonesalongthesidesofsmallhills,whichmayhaveformedwalls,andanearthembankmentintendedforuseasaprotectivedam,havebeendiscoveredinKyushu,southernJapan.Stonewallsinvalleysandtheremainsofobservationtowershavealsobeenunearthedinthearea.
Kamakura(1185–1333)andMuromachi(Ashikaga)(1338–1573)In794,theImperialcourtmovedfromNaratoHeian-kyo,present-dayKyoto.DissatisfactionwiththeImperialcourtledtotheestablishmentofanewmilitarysystemofrulein1185.TheemperorremainedinKyotoasthespiritualandculturalleaderofthecountrywhilethenewlyappointedshogun(hereditarymilitaryleader),MinamotoYoritomo,setuphisheadquartersatKamakura.Representativeswerepostedineachprovincetooverseetaxcollection.FollowingYoritomo’sdeathin1199,hiswidow,HojoMasako,tookcontroloftheshogunateasshikken(shogunalregent).Herfamilyruledforthenext134years.
years.In1266,andagainin1281,anewexternalthreatarosewhentheMongols
attemptedtoinvadeJapanvianorthKyushu.AstonewallwasbuiltaroundHakataBayinFukuokaprefecturetohelpstaveofftheinvaders.Adverseweather,however,provedthemosteffectivedefense,leavingJapanoneoftheonlycountriestonotfallunderMongolrule.
FendingofftheMongolattacksseverelydepletedtheresourcesoftheKamakurashogunate.Therewerenospoilsofwar,sotherewaslittlewithwhichtorewardthesouthernvassalsfordefendingthecoast.ThiscontributedtoagrowingdissatisfactionwiththerulingHojofamilyandgavethethenemperor,Go-Daigo,thejustificationneededtooverthrowtheKamakurashogunatein1333.Go-Daigo’saggressionpromptedAso,avassaloftheHojofamily,tolaysiegetotheImperialstrongholdatAkasakaandattacktheChihayafortressonMountKongo.Thesemodestfortresses,usingtheheightandcontourofthemountainstotheiradvantage,werelittlemorethansimplewoodenstockadeslinkingtowersandgates.
EmperorGo-Daigo’sreignwasshort-livedandhewasexiledtotheOkiIslandsintheSeaofJapan.Threeyearslater,in1336,theshogunatewasoverthrownbyoneofitsowngenerals,AshikagaTakauji.Takingthetitleofshogun,AshikagaestablishedhisheadquartersatMuromachi,asuburbofKyoto,tobeginthe235-yearreignoftheAshikagashoguns(1333–1568).ThiswasknownastheMuromachiera.
ThetwocenturiesofAshikagarulewerecharacterizedbyaculturalrenaissanceinliteratureandthearts,includingtheteaceremony,ikebana(flowerarranging)andlandscapegardening.Atthesametime,Kyoto’scentralcontrolbegantoweakenwhilecivildisordergrewasprovinciallordsviedforlandandpower.InfluentialprovincialfamiliesrevoltedagainsttheheavytaxesimposedtofundextravagantshogunalexpenditurecenteredaroundKyoto.Religiousbodiesalsoexertedtheirgrowingpowerandpeasantsformedleagues(ikki)toriseupagainsttheinjusticeoflandlordsandmoneylenders.OuchiYoshihirofortifiedtheporttownofSakai,nearpresent-dayOsaka,witharingofsmalltowersorturretsaspartofaplantoattackShogunYoshimitsuAshikagain1399.Yoshihirocommittedritualsuicide(seppuku)onthebattlefieldafterhisbesiegedrebelarmywascrushedthefollowingyear.
TheWarringStatesPeriod(1477–1576)ThesecondcenturyoftheMuromachiperiodwasbesetbywar.Adisagreementbetweentwopowerfulvassalsovershogunalsuccessionin1467sparkeda
betweentwopowerfulvassalsovershogunalsuccessionin1467sparkedabloodyconflictinKyoto.Elevenyearsoffighting,inwhatbecameknownastheOninRebellion,devastatedthecapitalcity.Politicalstabilitybrokedownasprovinciallordsturnedawayfromthecentralauthority.Openwarfarebrokeout.Bythetimehostilitiesendedin1477,around20powerfulwarlordsruledtheirterritoriesautonomously,with200–300lesserwarlordssubordinatetothem.Changesinpowerwereviolentandfrequent.Fightingcontinuedamongsttheselordsandtheirancestorsoverthenextcentury.TheemperorremainedinKyotoasafigurehead,alongsidethesevenAshikagashogunsappointedbetween1490and1573.Boththeemperorandtheshogun,however,heldlittleauthorityoutsideofthecapital,Kyoto.
ThisperiodisknownastheSengokujidaiorWarringStatesperiod(1477–1576).Asrivalwarlordsclashedtoprotectorincreasetheirterritory,thousandsofsimplefortificationsintheformofwoodenpalisadesandstoneembankmentswereerectedonmountains.Thesefortificationsspreadoverthemountain,withthemaincitadellocatedatthehighestandleastaccessiblepoint.Anetworkofsatellitecastlesradiatedfromthemaincitadel,eachprotectedbyasmallstrongholdandguardposts.Baileysorenclosureswerecarvedoutofthemountainsatdifferentlevels.Insidewerefences,towers,stables,storehouses,walkways,bridges,gatesandoftenasimplekeep.Timberfromthesurroundingforestswasthemainbuildingmaterial.Stonewasusedtostrengthenthebaseofgatehousesandtowersandtopreventerosionfromtheexcavatedslopes.
Theseearlymountainfortresseshadtheadvantageofheightforobservationandprotectionbutweredifficulttosupplyandtodeploytroopsfrom.Thewarriorlordusuallylivedinamansionatthefootofthemountain,whichwassometimessurroundedbyamoatorequippedwithawatchtower.Thesemountainstrongholdsweretheprecursortotheearliesttypeof‘modern’castle.Intheeventofattack,thelordwouldretreattothesafetyofhismountainfortress,thoughmostbattleswerefoughtonopenground.
LateWarringStatesPeriod(1560s–70s)Ambitiouswarlordsinthesecondhalfofthesixteenthcenturyformedalliancestooverthrowtheincumbentshogun,AshikagaYoshitaki.Todoso,awarlordhadtomarchhisarmytoKyototoobtaintheemperor’sendorsement.Onesuchwarlord,holdingterritoryclosetoKyoto,wasOdaNobunaga.ThelocationofNobunaga’slandatOwari,thoughsmall,gavehimadistinctadvantageoverpotentialrivalssuchasUesugi,TakedaorMori,whoselargeholdingswerefurtheraway.TheirmarchtoKyotowassignificantlymorehazardous,passingthroughunfriendlyterritoryastheylefttheirowndomainsundefendedfor
throughunfriendlyterritoryastheylefttheirowndomainsundefendedforextendedperiods.Forexample,ImagawaYoshimoto,apowerfulwarlord,andhis15,000-strongarmywereslaughteredastheyattemptedtopassthroughNobunaga’sdomainin1560.ThesurpriseattackbyOda’ssmallarmyof3,000onfamiliarterritorygavethemanadvantageoverthelargerarmy.
AzuchiCastle,builtbyOdaNobunagain1576,wasthefirstmoderncastle.SituatedonahillonamainrouteclosetothecapitalofKyoto,itwaseasytoaccess.Towithstandattack,itemployeddefensesonascalenotpreviouslyseeninJapanesecastles.Asafirstlineofdefence,mansions(yashiki)belongingtoOda’stopvassalslinedthemainroutetothemaintower.Barbican-stylegateways(masugatamon),multipleenclosures,enormousstonewallsandhiddenfloorsfurther
strengthenedthecastle’sdefenses.
Azuchi-MomoyamaPeriod(1575–1600)Aswarlordsalliedandbecamemorepowerful,theircastlestookonagreaterrole.Aswellasprovidingavantagepointandlastlineofdefense,castlesbegantobeusedasadministrativecentersfromwhichthewarlordsruledtheirdomain.Theywereconstructedinmoreaccessiblelocations,usuallyonahillforvantage,andclosetomajorroutestomonitorwhopassedthroughtheirterritory.Locallordsencouragedthegrowthoftownsaroundtheircastles,thecentralpositionandsizeofthecastlesbeingasymboloftheirpower.Castlesbuilton
positionandsizeofthecastlesbeingasymboloftheirpower.Castlesbuiltonlowergroundandclosetomajorroutesweremorevulnerabletoattack.FirearmshadbeenintroducedtoJapanin1543andmoreelaboratedefenseswereneededtocounterthenewweapons.Castlesneededtobelargerandstronger.
OdaNobunagawasthefirsttobuildsuchacastle.Between1576and1579hebuiltanenormouscastleatAzuchi,31miles(50km)eastofKyoto.ThefirstmoderncastleinJapan,itdifferedfromthepreviouswoodenfortsinmanyways.Itwassituatedonahillratherthanamountain,andwasclosetoamainhighway.AtownwaslaidoutatthebaseofthecastlenexttoLakeBiwaandmerchantswereencouragedtosettlethere.ThislocationgaveOdaastrategicvantagepointoverthemainroadleadingtothecapital,Kyoto.Italsofacilitatedtheadministrationofsurroundingareas,thesupplyofgoodstothecastleandthedeploymentoftroops.However,italsomadethecastleeasiertoattack.Massivestonewallswereusedtocombatthisthreat,afeaturethatbecamecharacteristicoftheJapanesecastle.Themaintower(Tenshu)ofAzuchiCastlewassevenstorieshigh,wherepreviouslytowershadbeenonlytwoorthreestories.Manysmallertowersprotectedthemainkeep.
AzuchiCastlewasasmuchaproclamationofOdaNobunaga’spowerasitwasafortress.Colorfulandornatelydecorated,itwasaflamboyantstructurebefittingtheself-mademilitaryleader.Ultimatelybetrayedbyoneofhisvassalsin1582,OdaNobunagawaswounded.Withlittlehopeofescape,hecommittedritualsuicide.TheTenshuandothertowersofAzuchiCastlewereburntdownandwereneverrebuilt.
Oda’sdeathpavedthewayforhisgeneral,ToyotomiHideyoshi,tocompletetheunificationofJapan.Toconsolidateandheraldhisnewposition,ToyotomiconstructedevenmoreimpressivecastlesatOsakaandMomoyama(FushimiCastle),plusafortifiedpalacecalledJurakudai(PalaceofPleasure)inKyoto.ContemporaryEuropeanvisitorsdescribedthesecastlesasmagnificentintermsoftheirsize,strengthandgrandeur,unlikeanybuildingstheyhadseenbefore.
TheblackTenshuofToyotomi’sOsakaCastlewasafeatureofthelatercastlesheorderedbuiltatHiroshima(1589),Okayama(1589)andMatsumoto(1590).TheseblackcastlesstandincontrasttotheTokugawacastles,whichwereusuallywhite.AsToyotomiwasbuildinghisopulentcastles,hedecreedinhisShirowaripolicyof1582thatonlydaimyounderhiscontrolcouldretaintheircastles.Thousandsofmountaincastlesweresubsequentlydestroyedorabandoned,deprivingtheruralgentryofafortifiedbasefromwhichtostageanuprising.By1583therewere204domainsacrossJapan,eachcomprisingamaincastleandanumberofsmallerones.Hideyoshi’spower,however,wasnotyet
secure.ThefourdaimyochargedwithdistributingNobunaga’sestateandadministeringcivilgovernmentopposedHideyoshi’sleadership.TheirresistanceledtotheBattleofShizugatake,nearLakeBiwa,in1583.
Victorious,Hideyoshicontinuedtoconsolidatehispositionasanewthreatemerged,thatofTokugawaIeyasu.ThetwometinbattlesatKomakiyamaandNagakuteinOwari,in1584.Intheabsenceofadecisivevictory,anagreementwasreachedin1585thatawardedIeyasutheformerHojoterritoriesintheeast—IzuandeightKantoprovinces,includingEdo.Inexchange,IeyasulefthisancestralholdingsclosertoKyoto,adeparturethateffectivelyremovedhimfromtheseatofpower.
PortraitofTokugawaIeyasuattheBattleofNagakute,1584,paintedintheseventeenthcentury.(CollectionofTokugawaArtMuseum.PhotoWikimediaCommons)
Hideyoshi,meanwhile,introducedanumberofmeasurestosecurehisauthority,whichweretoaffectJapan’ssocialstructureandthemaintenanceofpeaceoverthenext300years.TheTaikoKenchi(LandSurvey)from1583to1598recordedthedimensionsandyieldofeveryricefieldinJapan.Hideyoshisoughttomakethemainricecultivatorapermanenttenant,responsibleforpayingthetaxonhisland.Inthisway,henowcontrolledthefarmers,whomadeup80percentofthepopulation,bytyingthemtothelandandobligingthemtodelivertaxintheformofrice.Therationwasusuallynikoichimin—‘twototheprinceandonetothepeople.’Landholdingsweredescribedinkoku,theamountofricetheyproduced(1kokuweighs300lb/150kg).AlandgrantbyHideyoshi
(orTokugawaIeyasuafter1600)wasgivenintermsofkoku,aswasadaimyo’srevenue.
ThreeGreatUnifiersofJapanIfabirdwon’tsing:Nobunagawouldsay:“Killit”Hideyoshiwouldsay:“Makeitwantto”Ieyasuwouldsay:“Wait”
ThreegreatmenledJapanoutofits100yearsofwarduringthelatterhalfofthesixteenthcentury:OdaNobunaga(1534–82),ToyotomiHideyoshi(1536–98)andTokugawaIeyasu(1542–1616).
OdaNobunagabegantheprocessofunifyingJapanfollowinghisvictoryattheBattleofOkehazamain1560.Hismottoto‘RuletheEmpirebyforce’wasimposedonconqueredterritoriesthroughstrictlawsandpunishment.Nobunaga’ssuccesswasduetohisinnovative,oftenbrutalbattletactics,soundjudgmentandconsolidationofmilitaryvictorieswithciviladministration.SomeofhismorefamousbattleswerethecaptureofInabayamaCastle(1567),theMtHieiMassacre(1571)andtheBattleofNagashino(1575).Deceivedandattackedbyoneofhisvassals,OdaNobunagacommittedseppukuin1582.Beforehisdeath,Odahadbroughtaboutone-thirdofJapanunderhisrule.HewassucceededbyToyotomiHideyoshi,whocompletedtheunificationofJapanbyofferinggenerouspeacetermstopowerfulfamiliessuchastheMoriofthewesternprovincesandbydefeatingorpersuadingotherenemiestounite.By1590hehadcompletelysubduedtheterritorialwarlords,unitingJapanastheheadofapowerfuldaimyoalliance.
UnlikeNobunagaorIeyasu,whobothcamefrominfluentialwarriorfamilies,ToyotomiHideyoshicamefromhumblepeasantstock.HerosefromthelowlypositionofNobunaga’ssandalbearertobecomeoneofhismosttrustedandcapablegenerals.Hisstyleofleadershipwasconciliatoryratherthanforceful.Unabletoruleasshogun,notbeingadescendantoftheMinamotoclan,Hideyoshiruledthecountryaskanpaku(Imperialregent),thentaiko(retiredregent)untilhisdeathin1598.Powerwasentrustedtoacounciloffiveregents,whogovernedinthenameofhisseven-year-oldsonHideyori.
OdaNobunaga
ToyotomiHideyoshi
TokugawaIeyasu
Oneoftheseregents,TokugawaIeyasu,assumedcontrolofJapanin1600beforebeingappointedshogunbytheemperorthreeyearslater.Ieyasuwasthewealthiestdaimyo,rulingeightprovincesintheproductiveKantoarea,withannualrevenueof2.5millionkoku.Hewas,however,stillthreatenedbytheToyotomiHousesolongasHideyoshi’ssonandheirlived.In1615,heeliminatedthisdangerbyattackingOsakaCastleandcausingHideyori’sdemise.Ieyasuwasanexcellentgeneralwithaloyalfollowing,aswellasatalentedadministrator.RatherthanfightHideyoshifortherighttoruleafterNobunaga’sdeath,Ieyasuconcentratedonstrengtheninghisownterritories,waitingforanopportunitytoseizepowerhimself.Helivedfor13yearsafterbecomingshogun,establishingastrongadministrationandconsolidatinghisfamily’spowerbasefortheTokugawafamilytogovernJapanforthenext268years.
ItisacommonsayinginJapanthatIeyasuatethepiethatNobunagamadeandHideyoshibaked.
Hideyoshi’s‘SwordHunt’of1588aimedtoensurepeacebydisarmingthegeneralpopulation.Peasantswereinstructedtohandoverarmorandweapons.Onlysamuraiwereallowedtopossessandcarryasword.Thelargeclassofsamuraifarmerswasforcedtochoosebetweensoldieringandfarming.Samuraiwerealsoencouragedtomovetothecastletowns,wheretheyreceivedastipendinricefromtheirlord.Finally,in1590Hideyoshiissuedanedictthateffectivelyfrozethesocialstructure.Thefourclassesofsamurai,peasants,artisansandmerchantsweregivenseparatelegalidentities.Samuraiwereprohibitedfromreturningtotheirvillagesorchanginglordsandpeasantswereboundtothelandandbannedfromenteringtradesorcommerce.
TheBattleofSekigahara(1600)andtheSiegeofOsakaCastle(1615)AfterToyotomiHideyoshi’sdeathin1598,acouncilcomprisingthefivewealthiestdaimyo—TokugawaIeyasu,MaedaToshiie,UesugiKagekatsu,MoriTerumotoandUkitaHideie—wasappointedtoruleuntilHideyoshi’sheir,Hideyori,cameofage.Thisarrangement,however,soonbrokedownafterTokugawaandoneofHideyoshi’svassals,IshidaMitsunari,viedforcontrol.
AconfrontationensuedatSekigahara,about25miles(40km)northwestofNagoya,onOctober21,1600.Theopponents,daimyoloyaltotheToyotomihouseandthoseloyaltoTokugawaIeyasu,wereevenlymatched,witharound80,000menineachcamp.ThelandmarkbattlebroughttogetherthelargestnumberofwarringsamuraiinJapanesehistory.Inadecisionthatwastohavemajorrepercussions,8,000warriorsfromtheToyotomisideswitchedsidesduringthefighting.Thissurprisebetrayal,ledbyKoboyakawaHideaki,anadoptedsonofHideyoshi,securedvictoryforTokugawaIeyasu.
AlthoughIeyasunowcontrolledthecountry,threatstohisleadershipremained.Asasafeguard,heconstructedanumberofenormous,strategicallylocatedcastlestokeephisenemiesincheck.AsToyotomihaddone,Tokugawadrewupontheresourcesofrecalcitrantdaimyoinhisbuildingcampaign.Byoccupyingtheirtimeanddrainingtheirwealth,disgruntleddaimyowerelessabletoraiseahostilearmy.SomeofJapan’smostimpressivecastles,includingHimeji(1601–09),Hikone(1602–22),Nagoya(1610–28)andEdo(1593–1636),werebuiltatthistime.
AlthoughIeyasubecameshogunin1603,thesuprememilitaryrulerofJapan,therewasstillthethreatofanuprisingagainsthisshogunatebydaimyowhohadnotsupportedhimatSekigahara.Thesedaimyohadbeeneitherstrippedoftheirlandorgivenmuchsmallerterritories.ThepossibilityofarebellionremainedwhileHideyoshi’sheir,Hideyori,wasstillalive.
Ieyasustruckfirst.In1614,withHideyoriinadulthood,heattackedOsakaCastle.OntheflimsypretextofanoffendinginscriptionbyHideyorionabell,IeyasudemandedthatHideyorileaveOsakaCastleforalesserfortress.Hideyorirefusedandenlistedthesupportofsome60,000ronin,ormasterlesssamurai,displacedafterIeyasu’sconfiscationoftheirdaimyo’sland.Ieyasubesiegedthecastleduringthewinterof1614–15beforeatrucewasnegotiated,callingforOsakaCastle’souterdefensestobedemolished.Ieyasu’sarmydepartedaftertheouterandmiddlemoatswerefilledinandtheouterwallspulleddown.Hideyori,however,rebuiltthemassiveperimeterwalls,compellingIeyasutoagainbesiege
thecastleinthesummerof1615.Afterafailedcounter-attackatTennoji,Hideyoriunsuccessfullysalliedfromthecastlewithasmallforce.Withdrawinginsidethecastle,theTenshunowablazefromartilleryfire,hecommittedseppuku.ThelastmajoruprisingagainstTokugawarulehadended,leavingtheshogunateunchallengedforthenext250years.
TheEdoEra(1615–1867)PriortotheEdoera,around100majorcastleswerebuiltbetween1576and1615inthegrandstyleofAzuchi,OsakaandFushimi.Significantcastlesandtheirrelatedtowns,includingHimeji,Kanazawa,Wakayama,Kochi,Hiroshima,Edo,Okayama,Kofu,Sendai,Kumamoto,Hikone,Yonezawa,ShizuokaandNagoya,allcameintobeingduringtheseyears.ButmanyofthelargestcastleswerebuiltintheearlyEdoera,withprominentfamilymembersoftheTokugawainstalledinthemostimportant,includingHimeji(1601),Nagoya(1610)andOsaka(1620).Tozamadaimyo(outsidelords)werecompelledbytheTokugawashogunatetocontributetothebuildingofthesecastlesonthepretextofnationaldefense.However,withthecountryrelativelystable,thisactservedtofurtherdepletetheirresourcesandpreventinsurrection.
TheReshuffleofTerritoriesAftertheBattleofSekigahara
AfterTokugawaIeyasu’svictoryattheBattleofSekigaharain1600,daimyowererewardedorpunishedaccordingtowhethertheyhadsupportedoropposedhim.
YamauchiKatsutoyo,havingearlierservedunderNobunagaandHideyoshi,wasadvisedtoalignwithIeyasubeforeSekigahara.Inrecognitionofhissupport,hewasawardedtheprovinceofTosa,wherehebuiltKochiCastle.ThisprovincewastakenfromChosokabeMotochika,whosupportedtheTotyotomiside.Hideyoshi’sadoptedson,UkitaHidiie,wasstrippedofhisthreeprovinces,includingOkayamaCastle,infavorofKobayakawaHideaki,Hideyoshi’sfosterson,whoswitchedsidesatSekigahara.Kobayakawa’streacheryhelpedpavethewayforTokugawa’svictory.MoriTerumoto,apowerfuldaimyofromthewesternprovinces,sidedwiththeToyotomiloyalists,anddespite
notengaginginthebattlewasseverelypunished.Mori’svastholdingswerereducedfrom1,205,000kokuto369,000kokuandhiscastleatHiroshimagiventoFukushimaMasanori.ThecastigateddaimyowassenttotheremotetownofHagionJapan’ssouthwestcoast,farfromhistraditionalpowerbaseandevenfurtherfromEdo,thenewcenterofpower.
IiNaomasu,aTokugawavassal,hadthehonorofbeingthefirstintobattle.TheleadpositionhadbeengrantedtoFukushimaMasanori,butIi,along-timeloyalfollowerofTokugawa,believedheshouldleadratherthanFukushima,whohadbeenoneofToyotomiHideyoshiclosestvassals.IiarguedthatsincehewasescortingTokugawa’sfourthson,heshouldinspectthefrontlines.Inthisway,hewasfirstintobattle.Bothmenwerewellrewarded.IiwasgivenOmiprovince,wherehebuiltacastleatHikone,andFukushimawasgivenMoriTerumoto’sBizenprovincesandcastleatHiroshima.
Himeji’sstrategiclocationasthegatewaytothewesternprovinces,hometomanyToyotomisupporters,wasgiventoTokugawaIeyasu’ssoninlaw,IkedaTerumasa.Ikedahaddistinguishedhimselfinthelead-uptoSekigaharabyseizingGifuCastle.
MaedaToshiewasoneoffiveregentsappointedbyToyotomiHideyoshitocareforhisyoungson,Hideyori,butdiedayearafterToyotomiin1599.MaedahadbeenatrustedfriendandvassaltoToyotomibuthistwosonsweredividedintheirloyalty.Oneson,Toshimasa,championedToyotomiatSekigaharaandwasconsequentlydivestedofhisprovinces.Theseweregiventohisbrother,Toshinaga,whohadsupportedTokugawa.ToshinagathenbecamethewealthiestdaimyoafterTokugawa,holdingKanazawaCastleandreceivinganannualincomeof1,250,000koku.
BloodyscenesfromtheBattleofSekigahara,1600.WarriorsinredbelongedtoIiNaomasu’sarmy,whosered-lacqueredarmorearnedthemthenickname‘Ii’sRedDevils.’
Battleswereachanceforsamuraianddaimyotodistinguishthemselvesforfurtheradvancement.Rewardswereusuallyintheformofincreasedterritoryandincome.Onceasamuraihadlandthatproduced10,000kokuofriceperyear,hewasawardeddaimyo
status.
CastlebuildingvirtuallyceasedafterthethreatfromtheToyotomihousewaseliminatedin1615.Anewlaw,Ikkokuichijorei,oronecastleperprovince,forceddaimyotodemolishallcastlesintheirdomainswiththeexceptionoftheir
primaryresidence.Withinamatterofyears,some400castlesweretorndown.Acrossthecountry,about170castlesremained,anumberthatstayedrelativelyconstantoverthefollowingcenturies.
Theconstructionofnewcastles,orrepairstoexistingones,requiredapprovalbytheTokugawashogunate.Ifthetenshuburntdown,astheyoftendidthroughlightningstrikesoraccidents,theywerenotusuallyrebuilt.Castlesbuiltinthispeacefulperiodtypicallyhadfewdefensivefeatures.Thetenshuwasobsolete.Thedaimyoandhisfamilylivedinaresidenceinoneofthesecondarycompounds,withthemainbuildingsnowusedforadministration.Oftenfinishedinwhiteplasterwithdecorativehorizontalbands,thecastlesofthisperiodtendedtobelessornatethantheearlieronesoftheAzuchi-Momoyamaera.
TheMeijiPeriod(1867–1912)andtheBoshinWar(1868–69)Japan’sisolationfromtheWestendedaftertheAmericanCommodoreMathewPerry’sfleetarrivedinJapanin1853anddemandedthatJapanopenitsdoorstoWesterntrade.ManyJapaneseweredissatisfiedwiththeunfairtradetreatiesthatfollowed.AnallianceofsamuraifromthewesterndomainsofChosu,SatsumaandTosa,togetherwithImperialcourtofficials,pressuredShogunTokugawaYoshinobutopasspoliticalpowerovertothe15-year-oldEmperorMeiji.ThisYoshinobudidquitepeacefully,althoughwidespreadunrest,violenceinEdoandanImperialdecreetoabolishtheTokugawahousepromptedhimtolaunchafailedcampaignagainstthenewlyinstalledemperor.TogetherwiththoseloyaltoTokugawa,YoshinoburetreatedtonorthernHonshu,andlatertoHokkaido,wherehefoundedtheEzoRepublic.ThislastrebelliousfactionwasfinallydefeatedattheBattleofHakodateatFortGoryokakuinApril,1869.JapaninitsentiretynowcameunderImperialrule.
TheMeijiRestorationreturnedpoliticalpowertotheemperorafternearly700yearsofmilitaryrule(bakufu)bythreeshogunates:Kamakura(1185–1333),Muromachi(1333–1568)andTokugawa(1603–1868).Edo,renamedTokyo(easterncapital),becamethenationalcapital.By1871theshogun’sdomainswererationalizedandconvertedinto47prefectures.Daimyowerereplacedbygovernmentappointedofficialstomanagethem.CastleswerenowanunwelcomereminderofJapan’sfeudalpast,andin1873anorderwasgiventoreducetheirnumber.Themajorityweredestroyedoverthenexttwoyears,leavingonly19tenshuandnumerousstonewallsandmoatsthatweretoodifficulttodismantle.
WorldWarIIandBeyond
SevenofthetenshuthatsurvivedtheMeijiRestorationweredevastatedbytheAlliedbombingcampaignofWorldWarII:Nagoya,Hiroshima,Wakayama,Okayama,Fukuyama,OgakiandGifu.SeveraltowersremainingatOsakaCastlewerealsolost.AlthoughHimejicitywasbombedextensivelyonJuly3,1945,thecastlemiraculouslysurvived.
Arenewedinterestincastlesdevelopedintheearlytomid-twentiethcentury.NewtenshuwerereconstructedinconcreteattheOsaka,Nagoya,Wakayama,Hiroshima,Kumamoto,Okayama,OdawaraandFukuyamacastlesites.Reinforcedconcrete,whichwasthoughttobestrongerthantraditionalbuildingmaterials—stone,wood,mud,plasterandtile—wascheaperandeasiertowork.However,itwasdiscoveredthattheoriginalmaterialsweremoresuitedtotheJapaneseclimate.Recentreconstructionsusingtraditionalmaterialsarehelpingtokeepalivethespecializedskillsneededtobuildacastle.Nowrecognizedfortheirhistoricalvalue,uniquearchitectureandromanticassociationwiththesamurai,Japanesecastlesareincreasinglypopulartouristdestinations.SeveralarelistedasUNESCOWorldHeritageSites,includingNijoandHimejicastlesonthemainislandofHonshu,andNakajin,NakagusukuandShuricastlesonthesouthernislandsofOkinawa.
TheDesignofaJapaneseCastle
TheJapanesecastlereacheditsdevelopmentalpeakduringtheearlyseventeenthcentury.ThepowerstrugglebetweentheToyotomiandTokugawacampsduringtheMomoyamaperiod(1575–1600)stimulatedtheconstructionofhundredsofcastles.Theenormousquantityofmaterialsandmanpowerneededfortheseincreasinglycomplexfortressesweresuppliedbylocalfarmers,merchantsandsamurai,asstipulatedbytheirdaimyo.MassivecastlessuchasOsaka,EdoandNagoyarequiredsubstantialcontributionsfromdaimyothroughoutthecountry.Remarkably,thesemajorcastleswerecompletedinamatterofyears.Thisfreneticperiodofcastlebuildinglasted40years,beginningin1575withOdaNobunaga’srevolutionaryAzuchiCastleandendingin1615withtheTokugawa’sedictbanningnewcastleconstruction.
Initiallyadefensivestronghold,thecastlebecamemoreofanadministrativecenterandexpressionofpowerasJapan’spoliticalsituationbegantostabilizeintheearlyseventeenthcentury.Townsgrewuparoundthecastleandindustriesevolvedtoservetheneedsofthecastlepopulation.
Viewedfromadistance,aJapanesecastleappearstobelittlemorethanalargetowercrownedwithlayersofsweepingroofs.Thistower,however,isjustonepartofacastlecomplexmadeupofminortowers,storehouses,gatesandapalacesetincompoundsdelineatedbyearthworks,stonewalls,plasteredmudwallsandmoats.Eachcastleisunique,distinguishedbyitslocation,whethersitedonamountain,hillorplain;itslayout;thekindofstonesusedinitswalls;thestyle,size,defensiveanddecorativedetailofitsmaintower;theposition,numberandstyleofitsothertowersandgates;andwhetherithadapalace,gardensandotheradministrativebuildings.
Yamajiro
Hirayamajiro
Hirajiro
Ukishiro
Doshinen
Hashigokaku
Renkaku
Complex
OptimalSiting
Theoptimallocationforacastlechangedwiththepoliticalsituation.Mountain
castles(yamajiro)werecommonduringtheWarringStatesperiod(1467–1568),withthousandsofwarriorlordsfightingforterritory.Itisestimatedthataround5,000ofthesesimplefortificationswereerected.Naturalobstaclessuchascliffs,rockyterrainandforestsprovidedadditionalprotectionforthesewoodenforts.Althoughtheirinaccessibilityhinderedattack,mountaincastlesweresusceptibletosiege,difficulttobuildandinconvenientasanadministrativebase.
Withtheconsolidationofterritoriesintothehandsofafewpowerfulwarlordsinthesecondhalfofthesixteenthcentury,itwasadvantageousforcastlestobebuiltclosetomajortransportroutesforeasyaccessandtomonitorthemovementsofotherwarlords.Castlesneededtobeaccessiblebothasabarracksandforadministrativepurposes.Theywerebuilteitherontopofahillsurroundedbyaplain(hirayamajiro)oronaflatareaofland(hirajiro).Sincelowgroundofferedlessprotection,manycastleswerebuiltclosetothesea,alakeorariver,withwaterdivertedtofillsurroundingmoats.Manyofthelargemoderncastlesbuiltbetween1596and1615,suchasHimejiCastle,werehirayamajiro.Castlesbuiltonflatlandsurroundedbywetmoatswerecalled‘floatingcastles’(ukishiro)or‘watercastles’(mizujiro).
Layout
Japanesecastlescompriseaseriesofcompoundswiththemaintower(tenshu)situatedinthehighest,innermostbaileyorenclosure(honmaru).Subsidiaryenclosureshousedthelord’sresidence,storehousesandretainers’quarters.Thesewerecommonlycalledninomaru(secondenclosure),sannomaru(thirdenclosure)andnishinomaru(westernenclosure).Individualenclosureswereseparatedbyearthworks,stonewallsandmoats.Acastlemayhaveonlyafewenclosuresorasmanyasseven,suchasatKanazawaCastle.Thelayout(nawabari)oftheseenclosureswascrucialforacastle’sdefense.Theaimwastoconfuseanenemyandobstructaccesstothemaintower.
Naturaltopographywasmaximizedincastlebuilding.Ahillsitepresentedopportunitiesforalayoutwithminimumexcavation,whilenaturalfeatures,suchasariverorasteepescarpment,wereoftenincorporatedintothecastle’sdefensivesystem.Theperimeterofthecastlewasusuallycircularorpentagonal,astheseshapesreducedblindspotsandrequiredfewersoldierstodefendthem.Extensivecastlegroundskeptvulnerablewoodenbuildingsoutofenemyrange.ThegroundsofEdoCastle,forexample,stretched3miles(5km)fromeasttowestandabout2.5miles(4km)northtosouth.
Therewerefourtypesoflayout:doshinen,hashigokaku,renkakuandcomplex.Adoshinenlayouthadthemainenclosureatthecenterwiththesecondandthirdenclosuresarrangedinconcentricringsaroundit.OsakaCastlewasoneofthefewcastlestoadoptthisformbecauseoftheextensiveearthworksneededtoformtheencirclingmoats.Asecondtypeoflayout,hashigokaku,placedthemainenclosureattheapexofahillfromwhichthesecondandthirdenclosuresdescendlikesteps.InuyamaCastleistypicalofthisstyle.Arenkakulayoutplacedthemainenclosureinthecenterwiththesecondandthirdoneitherside,asatNagoyaandHikonecastles.AmorecomplexlayoutcanbeseenatHimejiCastlewheretheapproachtothemaintenshutwistsandturnsbeforedescendingintotheinnerenclosurethroughaseriesofgatesandsmallcourtyards.Suchalayoutconfusedintruders,forcingthemtoslowdowntotheadvantageofthedefendingsamurai.
Stonewalls
Toweringstonewalls(ishigaki)areoneofthemostimposinglegaciesoftheJapanesecastle.Reachingashighas98ft(30m),thesedrystonewallshavesurvivedmorethan400yearsofrain,earthquakesandwar.TheirexistencetodayisatributetothegreatskilloftheJapanesestonemason.
Thereweretwomaintypesofstonewall:astone-facedembankmentandafree-standingwall.Stone-facedwallssurroundedcastleenclosuresandcouldreachheightsofupto98ft(30m).Stoneswerepiledagainstahillthathadbeencarvedtoadesiredangle,oragainstanembankmentformedfromamoatexcavation.Free-standingwallsweremuchlowerandusedasthebasefortowers,gatesandmudwalls.Behindtheouterstonefacewasaninnercorefilledwithpebblesandearth.
Variouskindsofstoneswereusedincastlewalls:fieldstones,cutstones,crackedstonesandpebbles.Enormoussinglestones(kagami)werepositionedatimportantentrancestoimpressvisitors,suchastheHigostoneatOsakaCastleandtheKiyomasustoneatNagoyaCastle.Auspiciouslyshapedstoneswerealsoplacedatimportantentrances.Representingwater,thehexagonaltortoisestoneatthereargateofKanazawaCastle‘protects’thecastlefromfire.
Theavailabilityofsuitablestones,thefinancialresourcesofthelordandthetimeframedeterminedthetypesofstoneutilized.Speciallycutstonestooklongertoprepareandweremorecostlythanlocallygatheredfieldstones.Consequently,fieldstonesandroughlyhewnstoneswerethemostcommon,withfinelycutordecorativestonesreservedforcorners,importantgatewaysand
withfinelycutordecorativestonesreservedforcorners,importantgatewaysandthebaseofthemaintower.
Nomortarwasusedinthestonewalls.ThisallowedthewallstomoveslightlyduringJapan’sfrequentearthquakes,minimizingdamagetothewallandthewoodenstructureabove.Theskillinstonewallbuildinglayinpositioningindividualstonestolockthemtogether.Theearlieststonewallswereconstructedwithroughstonesstackedagainstanearthembankment:randomstonepiling(ransekizumi)orfieldstonepiling(nozurazumi).Gobozumiwasamoresophisticatedformofrandomstylepilingwherelongrectangularstoneswereembeddeddeepintotheearthtostabilizeawall.‘Beatenandinsertedmasonry’(uchikomihagi)wasthemostcommontypeofpiling.Itusedindividualrocksroughlyhewnintoshapebyhammerandchisel.Asthesestoneswerestillquiteroughandasymmetrical,crackedstonesandpebbleswereusedtofillanygapsintheouterface.Cutandinsertedmasonry(kirikomihagi)wasthemosttechnicallyadvancedformofstonepiling.Preciselyhewnstoneswerecarefullyalignedtocreateawallwithoutgaps.Thespeciallyshapedstoneswereeithersquare,rectangularorhexagonalandlaidevenlyinrows(nunozumi)oratrightangles(kaginote).Particularattentionwaspaidtothecornersofstonewalls,withlargerrectangularstonespiledalternativelyinazipper-likefashion(sangizumi).
Astone-facedembankmentshowingthebasestone(neishi),piling(gobozumi)atthelowerpartofthewallandupperpart(uchikomihagi).Betweenthelargeouterstonesandtheearth
embankmentisalayerofpebbles,whichfacilitatedrainage.(Thisdiagramisforillustrativepurposesonlyasawallwouldusuallyonlyemployonekindofpiling.)
Afree-standingwall.
Stonewallswereoriginallylowandvertical.Ifthegroundwassoftorthebuildingheavy,theywerebuiltonaninclinetocreateawider,morestablebase.Themorerefinedthepiling,thesteeperawallcouldbe.Aswallsbecamehigherandthebuildingstheysupportedlarger,wallswerebuiltinaparabolicshape.Thecurveinthewallwasachievedusingwedge-shapedstones.Thesmallerendofthestonefacedoutwards,thelargerinwards.Curvatureofthewalllessenedthestrainonthelowerstonesbydistributingtheweightoverawiderarea.
Ransekizumiandnozurazumi(fieldorrandomstonepiling).
Uchikomihagiandsangizumi(cornerstonepiling).
Narrowstepsontheinsideofthecastlewallprovidedaccesstothetopofthewalls.Stepsrunningalongthelengthofawall(gangi)enabledanumberofwarriorstoascendthewallrapidlytodefendthecastle.SuchstepscanbeseenatWakayama,HagiandOsakacastles.
Kirikomihagi(cutandinsertedmasonry).
Moats
Moats(hori)surroundingcastleenclosuresprovidedfurtherprotectionforthetenshu.Thosefilledwithwaterorfinemudwereusuallyfednaturallybythewatertableorbydivertingwaterfromanearbysource.
Thesizeofamoatdependeduponwhetheritwasanexterior,interiororsurroundingmoat.Theexteriormoatwasusuallythewidestanddeepest,upto26ft(8m)deepand85ft(26m)wide.Thesideswereoftenfacedwithstonetopreventerosionandfollowedtwobasicforms,theUshape(yagenbori)andtheboxshape(hakobori).
Walls
Lowwalls(hei)encircledcastleenclosures,delineatingareasandlinkingtowersandgateways.Setatopstonewallsandinterspersedwithshootingholes,thesewallsprotectedsamuraidefendingthecastle.Theyblockedtheviewintoandacrossthecastlegroundsanddirectedtheapproachtothetenshu.HimejiCastle’slabyrinth-likelayoutiscreatedbylowwallsactingasoutdoorpassageways.
Themostcommonandsimplesttypeofwallisamudwall(dobei).
Approximately6.5ft(2m)high,itconsistsofatimberandbambooframecoveredinamixtureofmudandstraw.Althoughoccasionallyleftnatural,thewallswereusuallyplasteredforgreaterstrengthanddurability.Timberplanksweresometimesaddedtolinethewalls,asatMatsuyamaandMatsuecastles.Alternatively,tileswereusedtoreinforceawallandreducethethreatoffire,suchasatKanazawaCastle.Asmalltiledroofprotectedthewallfromtheelements.
Variationsinwallsincludedthesoilwall(tsujibei),doublewall(nijubei)anddrumwall(taikobei),thelatterso-namedbecausethesidesbulgedoutlikeataikodrum.Theseparticularwallswereconstructedbyfillingawoodenframeworkwithcompactedsandandclay,stonesorbrokentilesandthencoveredwithmudandplaster.Theywerestrongerthandobeibutalsomoretimeconsumingtoconstructandtoothicktocontainshootingholes.NijoCastlehasanimpressive10ft(3m)-hightsujibeirunningbesidetheNinomaruPalace.
Yagenbori
Hakobori
Thefan-shapedstonewallsofOsakaCastlereachupto79ft(24m).ThesetypesofwallsareafeatureofthestrategicallyimportantcastlesatNagoyaandHimejibuiltduringtheearlyyearsofTokugawarulewhentherewasstillthethreatofrebellionfromsupportersoftheToyotomiHouse.
CASTLEBUILDINGS
Towers,gates,storehousesandthelord’slivingquartersmadeupacastle’sbuildings.Thecenterpiecewasthelargemaintowerorkeep(tenshu).
MainTower
Thetenshuwasanelaboratestructureusedasalookout,storagefacilityand,insomecases,accommodation.Astheheartofthecomplex,itwassituatedinsidetheinnermostenclosure(honmaru)atthehighestpointinthecastlegrounds.Beingthelastlineofdefense,itwasthemostheavilyprotectedofallthebuildings.
Therearetwostylesoftenshu:lookoutstyle(borogata)andmultilevelstyle(sotogata).Earlytenshuwereusuallyconstructedintheborogatastyle.Theseornatetwo-orthree-storywoodenbuildingswerecrownedwithawatchtower.Maruoka,Inuyama,HikoneandMatusecastlesareallexamplesofthistype.Thesquareupperstorywatchtowerwasincorporatedintothemiddleofalowerlevelirimoya-stylegabledroof.Incontrast,asotogatatenshuhadmultiplelevelsofthesameshapethatsuccessivelydecreasedinsizeastheyroseskyward.Marugame,Hirosaki,NagoyaandMatsumotocastlesareallexamplesofthisstyle.Thesotogatastylewaseasiertoconstructthantheborogataandwasthuscheaperandquickertobuild.
Asastronghold,thetenshuemployedanumberofdefensivefeatures.Thebuilding’sheightprovidedacommandingviewoverthesurroundingareawhilemultiplerooflayersconcealedthetruenumberofinternallevels,therebyconfusingapotentialinvaderandgivingdefendersanopportunitytohideorescape.Shootingholesandstone-droppingwindowsaideddefencewhileslattedwindowspreventedobjectsbeingflunginside.
Aswellasadefensivestructuredesignedtoimpressordiscourageanenemy,atenshu’ssheersize,roofingarrangement,windowshape,coloranddecorativerooftilessymbolizedpowerandwealth.Tenshuwereatleastthreestorieshigh,theirsizebeingcommensuratewiththepowerofthedaimyo.Yetsizewasnotessentialtoconveypower.Architecturalbeautywasalsoimportant,withsomeofthemoststrikingtenshurelativelysmall,likethoseatHikone,InuyamaandUwajima.Thisaestheticgrandeurwasachievedbyacombinationoflayeringupsweepingroofsandacomplexarrangementofroofgables.
Therearetwotypesofroof:irimoyaandkirizuma.Theirimoyaroofisatwo-sidedroofwithaclosedtriangulargableatoppositeends.Thekirizumaroofissimplytwosidesjoinedatthetop.Thistypeofroofoftencoversthepillarsofapost-and-beamgate.Thetriangulargable(hafu)cantaketheformofanirimoyahafu,chidorihafuorkarahafu.Thesidesoftheirimoyahafuextendtotheedgesoftheroof.Thesmallerchidorihafuappeartobeattachedtotheroof,withthesidesjoinedatanangletotheroof.Thekarahafuisanundulatingroof.
OnthemaintenshuofMatsumotoCastle,thetoproofgableisan
irimoyahafu,themiddleundulatinggableakarahafuandthelowergableachidorihafu.
Borogata-styletenshu:HikoneCastle
Borogata-styletenshu:GifuCastle
Borogata-styletenshu:InuyamaCastle.
Sotogata-styletenshu:MatsumotoCastle
Sotogata-styletenshu:HirosakiCastle.
ThetwolowertriangulargablesonthetenshuatHirosakiCastlearekirizumahafu.Theycovertheprotrudingstone-droppingwindowsbutarenotattachedtotheroof.Thetopgableisanirimoyahafu,itssidesextendingtothe
edgeoftherooftoformaclosedtriangulargable.Althoughwindows(mado)werenecessaryforlightandfordefenseofa
castle,theirarrangementandformalsocontributedtothetenshu’sexternalbeauty.Threemaintypesofwindowwereused:pushouttimberwindows(renjimado),latticedbaywindows(degoshimado)andbell-shapedwindows(katomado).Shojiandtimberslidingscreenswereusedtosecurewindowsfromtheinside.
Japanesetenshuwerefinishedinblacklacqueredtimber,whiteplasteroracombinationofboth.Castlesbuiltbefore1600,whenToyotomiHideyoshiwasinpower—Azuchi(1576–79),Maruoka(1576),Osaka(1583),Okayama(1589–97),Matsumoto(1590–1614),Hiroshima(1589–99)andKumamoto(1601–07)—wereoftenblack.ThosebuiltbytheTokugawashogunateanditssupportersafter1600—Himeji(1601–09),Hikone(1602–22),Nagoya(1610–28)andthereconstructedOsaka(1620–29)—wereoftenwhite.Thisisthoughttobeeitherasignofsupport(blackforToyotomiandwhiteforTokugawa)orduetoavailableresources,asplasteringwasmoreexpensive.Alternatively,howacastlewasfinishedmayhavebeeninlinewiththedevelopmentofcastletechnology.Theexposedtimberframework,flooringandwallsoftheearliercastlesweresusceptibletofire.Wallsweremadestronger,weatherproofandfireproofinlatercastlesbycoveringabamboolatticewithmudandstrawuponwhich1inch(3cm)ofplastermadefromamixtureofslakedlime,shellash,hempfiberandseaweedwasapplied.Exteriorplasteredwallsweresometimeslinedwithwoodenplanksortilestoprotectthemfromtheelementsandprovidefurtherstrength.
Golddecorationandvarioussymbolicfeaturesembellishedthetenshu.Stone,bronzeorgildedmythicaldolphin-likecreatures(shachihoko)actedas‘protective’roofornaments,whilegargoyle-liketilesontheeavecorners(onigawara)wardedoffbadspirits.Rowsofroofendtilesdisplayedthedaimyo’screst.TheoveralleffectofJapanesecastletenshuwasoneofrestrainedopulence.
Earlytenshu,suchasthoseatMaruokaandUwajimacastles,usuallystoodaloneasasingletower.Others,suchasatHikoneandMatsuecastles,wereattachedtoasubsidiarytower.Thetenshuoflargercastles,suchasatNagoyaandKumamoto,wereconnectedbyacrossingorconnectingtower(watariyagura).Himeji,WakayamaandMatsuyamacastleshaveacompoundtenshuarrangementwherebythemainkeepisconnectedtomultiplesmallertowersbywatariyaguraoranextendedone-storytower(tamonyagura)tocreate
asmallcourtyardortoencircletheentireinnerenclosure.
TENSHUDETAILS
Roofs
LayersofsweepingtiledroofsareuniquetoJapanesecastles.Tileswereusuallymadeofclaybutcouldalsobemadefromstone,leadorcopper.Althoughstructurallyunnecessary,roofgablesproliferateonJapanesecastles,addingagracefulupsweptroof.
TenshuTypes
Lefttorightdokuritsushiki(independent),fukugoshiki(attached),teiritsushiki(connected),renketsushiki(compound).
MatsueCastlehasanattached-style(fukugoshiki)tenshu.Accesstothefive-storytoweristhroughaheavilyfortifiedtwo-storyannex.
HimejiCastlehasacompoundtowerarrangement(renketsushiki).Themainfive-storytenshuisconnectedtothreesmallertenshubycorridorsforminganinternalcourtyard.Intheeventofan
attack,defenderscouldretreattooneofthesubsidiarytowers.
DefensiveOpenings
Aroundplaster-coveredshootingholeoverlookingtheentrancetoOsakaCastleenableddefenderstofireuponintrudersapproachingthemaingate.
defenderstofireuponintrudersapproachingthemaingate.
Ishiotoshimado(stone-droppingwindow)
Theseopeningswereincorporatedintostone,mudorwoodenwallsandtowers.Smalltrapdoorsandremovablefloorboardsalloweddefenderstohurlstones,boilingwaterorhotsandupon
invaderstryingtoscaleacastlewall.
Sama(shootingholes)
Shootingholeswererectangularforarrowsandsquare,triangularorcircularforguns.Largerontheinside,thetelescopedopeningallowedaweapontobefreelymaneuveredwhileminimizinga
defender’sexposuretoenemyfire.
DecorativeGables
Shachihoko(dolphin-liketile)
Placedoneitherendofaroofridge,shachihokoaremythicalcreaturescombiningatiger’sheadwiththebodyofafish.Theraisedtailsymbolizedthecreaturethrowingupwavesandcausingraintofall.Madeofwood,stone,tile,bronzeorgilded,itwasacharmtoguardagainstfireand
wardoffdisaster.
Nokimarugawara(roundeaveendtiles)
Liningtheedgeoftheroofeaves,theseroundtilesdisplayedthefamilycrestofthelordorcarriedadesignsymbolizingwater—lightningandfirebeinganever-presentdangertothepredominantly
woodenbuildings.
Nokihiragawara(flateaveendtiles)
Adecorativeflattileliningtheroofedgebetweentheroundeaveendtiles.
Roofendtile
Onigawara(gargoyle-like‘monster’tile)
Thisfierce-lookingtilepositionedattheapexoftheroofalsohelped‘protect’acastle.Tilesinthispositionoftenincorporatedthelord’sfamilycrestinthedesignaswellaswavesandcloudsto
symbolizewater,firebeingoneofthegreatestthreatstothecastle.
Gengyo
Decorationattheapexofagabletoconcealthetipoftheridgebeamandrafters.
Turrets
Towersorturrets(yagura)formedavitalpartofacastle’sdefensivesystem.Actingbothasawatchtowerandapointfromwhichtofireonanattackingenemy,theywerestrategicallyplacedabovegatewaysandatthevulnerablecornersofstonewalls,whichweretheeasiestpartofthewalltoscale.
Originallyusedtostoreweapons(yameansarrow,kura,storehouse),castletowersservedasstorage:teppoyagura(guntower),hatayagura(flagtower),
shioyagura(salttower);astheplacefromwherethesignaldrum(taikoyagura)wassounded;andasaturretfromwhichtoviewthemoon(tsukimiyagura).Towerswerecommonlyidentifiedaccordingtotheircompasslocationandcorrespondingzodiacsign.Anorthwesttower,forexample,wascalledushitorayagura(ox/boartower),asoutheasttower,tatsumiyagura(dragontower),asouthwesttower,hitsujisaruyagura(sheep/monkeytower)andanorthwesttower,inuiyagura(dogtower).
Towerswereusuallyonelevel(hirayagura),twolevels(nijuyagura)orthreelevels(sanjuyagura).Differenttypesincludedcornertowers(sumiyagura),longtowers(tamonyagura),connectingorcrossingtowers(watariyagura)andgatetowers(yaguramon).Atamonyagurawasacoveredgalleryfromwhichalineofsoldierscouldfirethroughshootingholes.Thesetowers,suchasatHikoneandHimejicastles,werealsousedforstorageandservants’quarters.Watariyaguraprovidedapassagebetweenthemainandminortenshu.Himeji,IyoMatsuyamaandMatsumotoallusewatariyagurainthisway.
Anijuyagura(two-storytower)withstone-droppingwindowsactsasawatchtoweroverthemoatandmainentrancetoOsakacastle.Thetowerintheforegroundisayaguramon(towergate)
whichmakesuppartofthemaingateintothecastlegrounds.
Hirayagura
Nijuyagura(two-levelcornertower)
Sanjuyaguraandtamonyagura(three-leveltowerandcorridortoweratleft)
Tamonyaguraandnijuyagura(corridortowerandtwo-leveltoweratleft)
Gates
Gateways(mon)werethemostvulnerablepartofacastle.Heavilyreinforcedgateswerefashionedfromwoodoracombinationofwood,stoneandplasteredmudwalls.Woodengatesinimportantpositionswereusuallyreinforcedwithintricatelydecoratedironwork,whichnotonlystrengthenedthegatebutproclaimedtheimportanceofthelord.
Ofthemanykindsofgates,themostcommonwerethekoraimonandyaguramon.Akoraimonisapost-and-beamgatewitharoofextendingoverthefrontpostsandgate,plustwosubsidiaryroofsovertherearsupports.Asimplerformistheyakuimon,whichhasoneroofcoveringtheentiregate.Ayaguramonisatwo-storygatehousewithanopeningonthegroundfloorandaguardhousewithfiringpositionsonthefirstfloor.Itwaseitherfree-standingorpositioned
betweentwostonewalls.Koraimonwereusuallypositionedatsignificantentrancesinconjunction
withayaguramontoformabox-shapedgate(masugatamon),so-namedafterthemasuorrectangular-shapedricecontainer.Thisstyleofgatewasusedatimportantentrancestothecastle.Akoraimonformedthefirstgatewiththemuchlargeryaguramonsetatrightanglestoit.Passingthroughthefirstgate,visitorsenteredacourtyardenclosedbystonewallstoppedwithlowmudorwoodenwallslinedwithshootingholes.Trappedinthecourtyard,enemiescouldbefireduponfromallsides.Thistypeofgatearrangementpreventedoutsidersfromseeingstraightintothecastle.
Importantsouth-facingfrontgateswereusuallycalledotemon.Secondarygateswerecalledsakuramonandnorth-facingreargateswereoftenreferredtoaskaramete.Gatesclosesttothetenshuwereusuallysmallerinordertorestrictthepassageofinvaders,suchasthemunamonanduzumimonfoundatHimeijCastle.Munamonwerepost-and-beamgateswedgedbetweentwostonewalls,whileanuzumimonwasasmallopeninginastonewall.Othercastlegatetypesincludedthekaramon,apost-and-beamgatewithacuspedgable,andnagayamon,agatesetintoalongstorehouseortenementbuilding.
Otherbuildingswithincastlegroundsincludedstorehouses(kura)andnagaya(samuraiquartersortenements).Guardhouses(bansho)werepositionednearmaingatesandmannedbyacontingentofsamurai.
Koraimon
Yaguramon
Munamon
Nagayamon
Karamon
Masugatamon(plan)
Afree-standingyaguramonatHirosakiCastle.Theabsenceofwallsbesidethetimber-and-plasterstructureindicatesthatthiscastlewasconstructedinarelativelypeacefulperiod,
alleviatingtheneedformajordefensivestructurestoprotectthetenshuintheinnerenclosure.
PalacesandMansions
Earlymountaincastleswereprimarilyadefensivestrongholdwiththelord’smansion(yashiki)situatedatthebaseofthemountain.Castlesbuiltinthelastquarterofthesixteenthcenturyinitiallyincorporatedlivingquarterswithinthetenshu,suchasatAzuchiCastle(1576).Overtime,however,therelativelyuncomfortabletenshuwasabandonedinfavourofayashikiorapalace(goten)inanadjacentenclosure,usuallythesecondenclosure(ninomaru).Aswellasthelord’sresidence,gotenwereusedforceremonialandadministrativeactivities.
Goten(palaces)weresingle-storytimberbuildingssetwithingardens,usuallyinasecondaryenclosure(ninomaru).Thelordandhisfamilywouldliveinthepalaceratherthanthetenshu
(maincastletower).Slidingscreensenabledthesizeandconfigurationofroomstobechangedbytheopening,closingorremovalofascreen.Screensweresolidandwereeithermadeof
timberorpaper,translucentorlatticed.(Kawagoegoten.)
Kura
Goten
TheintricatelatticewindowsattheentrancetoKawagoegotenallowinhabitantsaprotectedviewtotheoutside.
Sumptuouspaintingsongoldleafadornthefusuma(solidpaperslidingscreens)attheOmoteShoinofNagoyagoten.Tigersandpinetreeswerecommonthemesinreceptionrooms,
symbolizingpower,strengthandlongevity.
BuiltintheShoinstyle,gotenweresingle-storytimberbuildingsoftenwithastaggeredplan.Slidingtimberorlayeredpaperdoors(fusuma)andtransparentpaperdoors(shoji)openedbetweenroomsandoutontogardens.Thefloorsofthelivingareaswerecoveredwithstrawmats(tatami)whileatimber-flooredhallway(engawa)ranbetweenthemattedroomsandtheexteriorslidingdoors.Shoin-stylebuildingshadanaudiencehall(ohiroma)withadeskalcove(tsukeshoin),displayarea(tokonoma)andstaggeredshelving(chigaidana).Theohiromawasthemostopulentreceptionroom,withgildedwallspaintedwith
scenesoftigers,pinetrees,birdsandbamboo.Themostimportantindividualwasalwaysseatedwithhisbacktothetokonoma.Floorlevelsdenotedrank,withthelord(daimyo)occupyingthehighestlevel(jodan)duringanaudience.Hisguestsorretainerssateitherinthemiddlelevel(chudan)orlowestlevel(gedan)accordingtotheirrank.Guardsstationedbehindawallofthejodanwereonconstantalerttoprotectthelord.
Thewoodenraindoors(amado)atKawagoegotencanberemovedleavingthewooden-flooredhallway(engawa)opentothecourtyard.Whiteshoji(translucentpaperslidingscreens)slidein
trackstoopenorclosetheinnerroomstotheexterior.Thestructurerestsontimberpoststoallowairflow,keepingthebuildingcoolinthehumidJapanesesummer.Theoverhangingeavesdirectheavyrainawayfromthetimberbuildingandintothegravel-filleddrainagepitrunningthelength
ofthebuilding.
ConstructionTechniques
Varioustypesoftimberwereusedincastleconstruction.Cypress(hinoki)wasprizedduetoitsstrength,absenceofknots,softnessandeaseofworking.Zelkova(keyaki)andfir(mominoki)werealternatives.Preciselycutjoints,inpreferencetonails,joinedtheframeworktogether.ThisallowedformovementintheeventofanearthquakeandexpansionandcontractioninthecourseofJapan’sseasons.
FoundationStones
FoundationstonesoftheoriginaltenshuofOkayamaCastle.Tocompensatefortheunevensurfacesofthestones,timberpostswerefashionedtostandsolidoneachstone,creatingalevelbaseuponwhichthetimbertenshuwasbuilt.
Foundationstoneswerelaidoutatintervalsonacompactedearthbase(tenshudai)tosupportthetimberpostsofthetenshuframe.Theraisedearthbasewasfacedwithstones.
WoodenJoints
Ancienttempleconstructiontechniqueswereappliedtocastles.Intricatejointsallowedforexpansion,contractionandmovementduringearthquakesandchangesinweather.Latercastleshadacentralpillarthatranfromthegroundtothetopstoryforfurtherstability.
Walls
Theexposedtimberfloors,postsandwallsoftheearlycastles,suchasMaruoka,weresusceptibletofire.Latercastles,suchasHimeji,fireproofedtheirwallsbycoveringabamboolatticeandstrawframewithconsecutivelayersofamudandstrawmixture.Themudwallwasthenplasteredandsometimestiledorcoveredwithtimberplanksforadditionalprotection.
Framework
AlthoughstandardmeasurementsareusedinJapanesearchitecturethatallowcomponentstobepreparedbeforeassembly,carpentersstillhadtomakealterationsonsite.Anexamplewouldbeastonewallbasethatwasnotperfectlysquare,orunevenfoundationstones.
Themultiplelayersofacastlewall.Coveringthebamboolatticearefourlayersofmudandtwolayersofplasterandtiles.(KanazawaCastle)
Abamboolatticeboundwithstrawbeforebeingcoveredinlayersofmud.
CastleBuilders:SamuraiandDaimyo
ThemodernJapanesecastlespresentedinthisbookwerebuiltbydaimyointhelatesixteenthcentury.Daimyowerelordsofthesamuraiandvassalsoftheshogun,thesuprememilitaryruler.
Samuraiweremilitarygentryeducatedandtrainedinmartialarts,horsemanshipandculturalpursuits.Meaning‘onewhoserves,’samurailivedaccordingtoastrictethicalcodeofbravery,integrityandloyalty.Fiercewarriors,theywouldfighttothedeathinorderto
protecttheirlordandhisproperty.Samuraiwouldvieforthehonorofbeingfirstintobattle,statingtheirnameandancestrybeforeengagingincombat.Theywouldwillinglyundertakeritualsuicide(seppukuorhara-kiri)torestoretheirhonor,toatoneforamisdemeanorortothwartanenemyfromtakingtheirhead.Alongwithhoningtheirmilitaryskills,samuraipursuedthefinerartsofpoetry,theteaceremonyandcalligraphy,andduringthepeacefulEdoera(1603–1868)tookonadministrativerolesintheirlord’sdomain.
Samuraibelongedtoaneliteclass,rankedabovefarmers,artisansandmerchants.Theywereaccordedtherighttocarryasword,wearcolorsforbiddentothelowerclassesandinstallagatedentrancetotheirresidence.TheMeijiRestorationin1868heraldedthedemiseofthesamurai.Sincetheelitewarriorclasswasincompatiblewiththenewdemocraticidealsbeingputinplace,itwasdissolvedbetween1873and1876.Thecenturies-oldfeudalmilitarysystemwasabolishedandaWestern-stylegovernmentwasintroducedwiththeemperorinstalledasheadofstate.
Daimyowerelordsofthesamurai.Meaning‘greatname,’daimyocontrolledlandwithanannualincomeofatleast10,000koku.Onekokuwasequivalenttoabout300lb(150kg)ofrice,theamountneededtofeedonemanforayear.LandwasacquiredfrombeingappointedtooverseeitbytheshogunduringtheKamakura(1185–1333)orMuromachi(1368–1573)erasorthroughmilitarygainintheWarringStatesperiod(1477–1576).Daimyobuiltcastletownsintheirdomaintosupervisethesurroundingvillages.Theywerepermittedtoruntheirdomainsfreelyinregardtotaxation,lawenforcementandthemaintenanceofanarmy.Inreturn,theshogunexpectedtheirloyaltyandmilitaryornationalserviceasrequired.DuringtheEdoera(1600–1868),daimyowererequiredtotakeupresidenceinEdoeveryalternateyearthroughtheSankinkotai(alternateresidence)system.Adaimyo’swifeandeldestsonwouldremaininEdowhentheyreturnedtotheirdomains.Suchrulesdiscouragedplotsagainsttheshogunanddepletedadaimyo’sresources.RivalsoftheTokugawawerealmostimpoverishedfromfinancingthegiganticcastlesofEdo,Sumpu,Osaka,NagoyaandNijo.Finally,the1615lawformilitaryhouses(Bukeshohatto)forbadedaimyotomovetroopsoutsidetheirowndomains,toformpoliticalallianceswithotherdaimyo,tomaintainmorethanonecastleintheirdomainortomarrywithoutshogunalapproval.
Adaimyoinspectstheheadofadefeatedenemy.Assamuraiwererewardedforperformanceinabattle,thepresentationofenemyheadsprovidedproofoftheirsuccess.
Theshogunwasthemostpowerfuldaimyoorsuprememilitaryleader.ThethreemainshogunatesthroughoutJapan’shistoryweretheKamakura,MuromachiandTokugawa.ThecastlespresentedherewerebuiltjustpriortoandatthebeginningoftheTokugawashogunate.
Whooccupiedwhichcastleandwherewasdeterminedbythedaimyo’srelationshiptothesupremeleaderorshogun.OdaNobunagaawardedcastlesandterritoriestohisvassalsinrewardfortheirservicefrom1560untilhisdeathin1582.Hissuccessor,ToyotomiHideyoshi,didlikewise,butwithagreaternumberofterritoriallordsunderhiscontrolwhohadbeensubduedratherthanallied,hereshuffledhisterritoriestoremovepotentialrivalsfarfromthepoliticalcenterofKyoto.Forexample,hemovedTokugawaIeyasutothedistant,andmuchlargerHojoprovincesintheeastofJapan,andstationedhismosttrustedvassalsinthewestwheredissentwasmostlikelytooccur.AftertheBattleofSekigaharain1600,Tokugawaassignedterritoriesandcastlesaccordingtowhetheradaimyohadsupportedoropposedhim.Faithfuldaimyobecamefudai,entrustedwithlandincentralJapan.Althoughsmall,thesedomainswerestrategicallylocatedontheKantoplain,intheKinaidistrictorborderingapowerfulenemy’sterritory.Inall,therewereabout176fudailords,130ofwhomprovidedtheshogunatewithcouncilorsandseniorofficialsduringtheTokugawaera.
ThoselordswhohadnotsupportedTokugawaatSekigaharawereeitherstrippedoftheirlandorhadtheirholdingsseverelyreduced.Knownastozamadaimyo(outsidelords),theywereusuallyfromthewestornorthofJapan.HavingreceivedtheirdaimyostatusfromeitherOdaNobunagaorToyotomiHideyoshi,theywereconsidereduntrustworthyandwerethuspreventedfromoccupyingseniorpositionsintheshogunate.Therewere86tozamadaimyoin1600.
SamuraioftheChosuclaninspectamapduringtheBoshinWarinthe1860s.Westerninfluenceisevidentinthemilitaryuniformswornbythesamuraiattherear.Western
hairstyles,however,hadnotyetbeentakenup,withsamuraistillfavouringthetraditionaltopknotstyle.(WesternshipsarrivedinJapanin1853,markingthebeginningoftheendfor
the268yearsofmilitaryrulebytheTokugawashogunate.)
Besidesfudaiandtozamadomains,therewerealsoshimpandomainsrunbydaimyorelatedtotheTokugawathrougheitherbirthoradoption.Thesetrustworthylordsweregiventerritoriesclosesttotheshogunalterritory.SankedomainswereheldbydaimyobornintothethreehousesdirectlydescendedfromTokugawaIeyasu,whocouldprovidesuccessorstotheTokugawashogun.ThesedomainswereOwari,KiiandMito.Tenryo(heavenly)domainswereheldspecificallybytheshogunateandcomprised25percentofJapan.
Castlesrarelychangedhandsoncethepoliticalsituationstabilizedinthemid-seventeenthcentury.MostremainedwithinthesamefamilyuntiltheMeijiRestorationin1868.
Asamuraicarriedtwoswords(daisho).Thelargerone(katana)wasthestandardfightingsword,whiletheshortsword(wakizashi)wasusedforfightingatclosequarters,tobehead
adefeatedopponentortocommitritualsuicide(seppuku).Whilesamuraiarmorwasfunctional,helmetswereoftenindividualizedwithdesignssymbolizingspeedandagility,suchasthedragonflyorrabbit.Daimyooftenhadextravagantattachmentsontheirhelmets,suchasgildedhorns,antlersoragoldencrescentmoonor,likeToyotomi
Hideyoshi,ahugesunburstcrest.
VISITINGJAPAN’SFINESTCASTLES
W
KumamotoCastle1601–1607
ithitssheerstonewalls,originalbuildingsandextensivegrounds,KumamotoCastleisoneofJapan’smostimpressive.ErectedbytherenownedcastlebuilderKatoKiyomasa(1562–1611)between1601and1607,theimmensecastleoriginallycontained2maintowers(tenshu),49subsidiarytowers,18towergatesand29castlegates.Itcoveredanareaof242acres(98ha)andhadacircumferenceof6miles(9km).SitedonMtChausu,overlookingthetownofKumamoto,thecastlewasprotectedbyriverstothewestandsouth.
KatoKiyomasawasatrustedvassalandclosefriendofToyotomiHideyoshi.In1588,hewasawardedhalfofthewealthyHigodomainfollowingHideyoshi’ssubjugationofthepowerfulShimazuclanofKyushu.AfterToyotomiHideyoshi’sdeathin1598,KatosupportedTokugawaIeyasuattheBattleofSekigahara.ThiswasduetohishatredofIshidaMitsunari,wholedthewesternarmy,ratherthanloyaltytotheTokugawaside.Forhissupport,IeyasuneverthelessawardedKatotheotherhalfoftheprovinceofHigo,increasinghisrevenuefrom250,000to540,000koku.WiththepermissionofTokugawaIeyasu,Katobeganconstructionofacastlein1601.Onitscompletionin1607,thestrongholdandsurroundingtowntookthenameKumamoto.
Hohoatemon,themaingateofKumamotoCastle,isso-calledbecauseitresemblesasamurai’sfacialarmor(hahaote).ThegateframestheTenshuinthebackgroundjustasahahaoteframesa
samurai’sface.
Theheavytimberdooratthemainentrancetothemaintower(Daitenshu)hasbarsthroughwhichtoviewandshoot,andasmallsubsidiaryentranceenablingthedoortostayshutwhen
underthreat.
AlthoughKatoreceivedrewardsandfavorsfromtheTokugawashogunate,heremainedloyaltohisoldfriendToyotomiHideyoshi,vowingtoprotecthissonandheir,ToyotomiHideyori.AfterescortingHideyoritomeetIeyasuatNijoCastlein1611,Katobecamesuddenlyillanddiedofsuspectedpoisoning.Thedomainwaspassedtohisson,KatoTadahiro,afterwhichitwaspassedtotheHosokawaclan,in1632.ElevengenerationsoftheHosokawaclangovernedKumamotoforthenext239yearsuntiltheMeijiRestorationin1868.
LARGEANDSMALLCASTLETOWERS(DAITENSHUANDKOTENSHU)
Thesix-storymainTenshu(Daitenshu)isconnectedtoasmallerfour-storyTenshu(Kotenshu).Thefirstflooroverhangsthestonebase,allowingthefloorboardstobeliftedupandstonesthrowndownontoattackers.TheoriginalTenshuofKumamotoCastlewasdestroyedin1877
duringsamuraiuprisingsagainstthenewlyrestoredImperialgovernment.ThecurrentTenshuisa1960concretereconstruction.
ThelargeTenshurises96.8ft(29.5m)abovethestonebase.ThesmallTenshuis62ft(19m)high.ThelargeTenshuhasthreelayersontheexteriorandinsidearesixstoriesandabasement.Thefish-likeornament(shachihoko)ontheroofridgeis4ft(1.2m)high.ThesmallTenshuhastwolayersontheoutside,fourstoriesinsideandabasement.BothTenshuwerereconstructedin
concretein1960.
Niyonoishigaki(stonewalloftwostyles).Advancesinstonewallbuildingareevidentinthesetwowalls.Themoregentlyslopingwalltotherightdatesfromtheoriginalconstructionin1601.Thesteeper,morerefinedwallontheleftwasalaterextension.Castlebuildingtechniquesdevelopedrapidlyinthelatesixteenthandearlyseventeenthcenturyasdaimyoscrambledforterritory.
WhentheTokugawagainedcompletecontrolin1615afterToyotomiHideyorihadbeendeposed,newcastlebuildingvirtuallyceased.
Iidamarugokaiyagura,thefive-storytowerintheIidamaru(Iidaorenclosure),overlookstheBizenbori(Bizenmoat).NamedafterIidaKakubei,whowasinchargeofthetower’soriginal
construction,itwasreconstructedusingtraditionalmaterialsandmethodsin2005.TheIidamaruisoneofaseriesoflowerenclosuresthatmustbepassedthroughtoreachtheHonmaru(mainenclosure)wheretheTenshuarelocated.TheapproachtotheHonmaruissurroundedbysheerstonewalls,whichtwistandturninordertoblockanyviewsintothecastleinterior,designedto
confuseawould-beattacker.
In1877,disaffectedwarriorsledbytheSatsumaclanfromsouthernKyushu,rebelledagainstthenewImperialMeijigovernment.Thisincludeda50-daysiegeofKumamotoCastlebygovernmentforcesthatdrovethefamedwarlordSaigoTakamoriandhisforcesoutoftheprefecture.Thetwomaintenshuandmanytowersandgateswithinthecastlegroundswereburntdownduringthesiege.
TheentrancetotheDaitenshuandKotenshuisheavilyfortifiedwithshootingholes,stone-droppingwindowsandspikes.Thesmalldoorwaysloweddownanattackingarmy,giving
defendersampleopportunitytofire.
POINTSOFINTEREST
ThesheerstonewallsofKumamotoCastlearecalledMushagaeshi(‘repellingwarriors’)becauseoftheiracuteangleandstrength.
Stretching830ft(253m)inlength,theplasteredmudwallextendingalongthefrontoftheTsuboiRiveristhelongestcastlewallinJapan.NamedNagabei,meaning‘longwall’,itwasvitaltothedefenseofthecastle’ssouthernperimeter.
ThirteenoriginalbuildingsremainatKumamotoCastle:Utoyagura(yagurameanstowerorturret),Gokenyagura,Hiramon,Akazunomon,Kitajuhachikenyagura,Higashijuhachikenyagura,Gennoshinyagura,Yonkenyagura,Juyonkenyagura,Shichikenyagura,Tagoyagura,NagabeiandKenmotsuyagura.TheIidamaru,GokaiyaguraandHonmarugoten(palace)areauthenticreconstructions.
reconstructions.
Originallycompletedin1610byKatoKiyomasu,theHonmarugoten(palace)atKumamotoCastleconsistedofmultipleroomsusedbythelordforadministrativeandceremonialduties.Thepalaceincludedalivingroom,receptionroomandkitchen.Burntdownin1877duringtheSeinanCivil
War,25oftheoriginal53roomshavebeenrecentlyrestored.
ThelordreceivedguestsintherichlydecoratedShokun(receptionroom).WallmuralsongoldleafillustratetalesfromtheChineseImperialcourt,believedtobetheinfluenceofKatoKiyomasu.
Theceilingoflacqueredsquaresisdecoratedwithgoldleafandintricatepaintingsofvariousplants.Samuraiwerestationedbehindtherearpainteddoorstoprotectthelord.
TheHonmarupalacewasconstructedovertwostonewalls,creatingadarkbasementpassageknownasKuragariTsuro(‘passageofdarkness’).ThispassageisuniquetoKumamotoCastle.
Withintheextensivepark-likecastlegroundsare17oftheoriginal120wells,togetherwithlawnsandabout800cherrytrees.
TheOhiroma(mainhall)oftheHonmarugottenismadeupoffoursmalleradjoiningrooms:Tsuru,Ume,SakuraandKiri.Acorridor(engawa)fromTsuruhallleadstoWakamatsuhall,Shokunhall
andthesukiya-styletearoom.
KumamotoCastleissurroundedby850,000sqft(79,000sqm)ofenormous,sheerstonewalls.In2017,anearthquakedamagedabout30percentofthewallsandafurther10percentcompletelycollapsed.Torepairthem,numbersareallocatedtoeachstoneremovedsoitcanbereplacedinexactlythesamespot.Repairstothe400-year-oldwallswilltakeabout20years.Theconcrete
Tenshu(Inuiyagura)behind,reconstructedin1960,wasseverelydamagedinthesameearthquakeandwillalsoundergorestoration.
ThemultistoryUtoyagura,withtheKotenshuandDaitenshuinthebackground,datesbacktotheoriginalconstructionofKumamotoCastlein1601.Withfivestoriesandabasement,thesizeofthistowerisindicativeofthemassivescaleofKumamotoCastle,thisonetoweralonebeing
comparableinsizetothemaintower(tenshu)ofmanyothercastles.KumamotoCastleoriginallyhadmanymultistoryturretslikethisone.
HosokawaTadaokiwasoneofthefavouritedisciplesofthefamousJapaneseteamaster,SennoRikyu(1522–91).Afterretiring,TadaokirenamedhimselfSansaiSoryu.ThenameHosakawaSansaiiswidelyassociatedwithJapan’shistoricalteaculture.AreplicaofauniquelongtearoomisintheHonmarugoten.
teaculture.AreplicaofauniquelongtearoomisintheHonmarugoten.
DIRECTIONS
KumamotoCastleislocatedinthecenterofKumamotoCity,a15minutetramridefromJRKumamotoStation.TowalkfromKumamotoStationtakes30–40minutes.
Colorkeyonpage37
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HimejiCastle1580,1601–1609,1617
icknamedtheWhiteEgret,HimejiCastlesoarsabovethetownofHimeji.Knowntodayforitsawe-inspiringsizeandninja-defyinglayout,thecastleonceheldthesignificantresponsibilityofguardingthegatewaybetweenthewesternandeasternprovincesofJapan.
LocatedontheSanyoHighway80miles(130km)westofKyoto,thestrategicimportanceofthissiteisreflectedinitsrichhistory.Firstusedasastrongholdin1333byAkamatsuNorimura,thegovernorofHarimaprovince,itwastakenbyKurodaShigetakaontheordersoftheKoderafamilyin1545.Kuroda’sson,Yoshitaka,alsoknownasKurodaKanbei,wasToyotomiHideyoshi’schiefmilitaryadvisor.HegavethefortressovertoHideyoshitouseashisbaseduringthecampaigntosubduethewesternwarlords(daimyo)from1577to1582.Hideyoshiraisedathree-storymaintower(tenshu)onthesitein1580.Hideyoshi’syoungerbrother,Hidenaga,ruledHimejiafterToyotomilefttocompletetheunificationofJapanfromhisbaseatOsakain1583.From1585KinsoshitaIesadaassumedcontrolofthedomain.
FollowingtheBattleofSekigaharain1600,thevictoriousTokugawaneededabasefromwhichtomonitorthewesterndaimyo.Mostlytozamadaimyo(outsidelordswhohadnotsupportedTokugawaIeyasuatSekigahara),thesedaimyowereconsidereduntrustworthyandwereneverallowedtoentertheinnercircleoftheTokugawagovernment.Itwasthetozamadaimyowhoultimatelyhelpedremovetheshogunatein1867andrestoretheemperorasrulerofJapan.
OneofelevenshachihokoontheroofridgesatHimejiCastle.Themythicalcreaturehastheheadofatigerandthebodyofafish.Theraisedtailsymbolizesthecreaturethrowingupwateras
‘protection’againstfire.
ThemagnificentTenshuofHimejiCastleisacomplexarrangementoffourtowersconnectedbycorridors.HimejiCastlewasoneofthelargestandmostheavilyfortifiedcastlesinJapanduring
theTokugawashogunateorEdoera(1603–1868).
IkedaTerumasa,ason-in-lawofTokugawaIeyasu,beganconstructionofanewcastlein1601.TheTokugawashogunateassistedbyorderingthewesterndaimyotosupporttheproject.TheirvastresourcesandtheuseofthelatestcastlebuildingtechniquesmadeHimejioneofthelargestandmostheavilyfortifiedcastlesinJapan.Onlythemostloyal,experiencedandhealthyretainerswerestationedatthecastle.Assuch,thelordofHimejicastlechangedfrequently,with31differentlordsinchargethroughouttheTokugawareignbetween1603and1868.
HondaTadamasasucceededtheIkedafamilyin1617.Hismajorengineeringworksincludedtheadditionofthewesternandthirdenclosures(NishinomaruandSannomaru).TheMatsudairaandSakakibaraclansfollowedtheHondasbeforeSakaiTadazumibecamelordofthecastlein1749.Sakai’sdescendantsremainedatHimejiCastleforthenext120yearsuntiltheMeijiRestoration.Remarkably,givenitslocation,thecastlewasneverattacked.
After1868Himejibecameamilitarycitywithinfantrystationedonthecastlegrounds.Barracksreplacedmanyoftheearlycastlebuildings.Theremainingbuildings,includingtheTenshu,survivedthebombingofthecity
remainingbuildings,includingtheTenshu,survivedthebombingofthecityduringWorldWarII.ThecastleisnowlistedasaUNESCOWorldCulturalHeritageSite.
POINTSOFINTEREST
HimejiCastlehasalargeTenshuconnectedtothreesmallerTenshubycorridorsthatformanenclosedcourtyard.ThisisthemostcomplexstyleofTenshuarrangement.ThelargeTenshuappearstohavefivestoriesexternallybutactuallycomprisessixstoriesandabasement.Twolargepillars(toshibashira),nearly3.3ft(1m)indiameter,reinforcethemainTenshu.Theyrise82ft(25m)metersfromthebasementtothebeamofthefifthfloor,greatlyincreasingthebuilding’sstrength.Foursupplementarypillarsextendfromthefourcornersofthebuildingforextrastability.
FirearmswerestoredonracksliningtheTenshu’sinternalwalls.Stone-droppingwindowswerebuiltintothe20in(50cm)-thickwalls.Samuraicouldwaitinwarriorhidingsites(mushakakushi)oneachcornerofthethirdfloorofthemainTenshutoambushintruders.Hiddenshootingholesalsolinedthewalls.Thecastlewasdesignedtobeself-sufficientduringasiege.Riceandsaltwerestoredinthebasement,whichalsocontainedawell,andinalongstorehousecalledtheKoshikuruwa,locatedbehindthemaintower.Thestorehouse’snortherlyaspecthelpedtokeepprovisionscool.Oneofthecastle’soriginal33wellswaslocatedinthisarea.Todayonly13wellsremain,thedeepestwitha98ft(30m)drop.
TheTenshurises151ft(46m)abovesealevel.ItsitsatopHimeyama,a69ft(21m)hillsurroundedbyanopenplain.HimejiCastleisfamousforitssophisticateddefensivelayout,whichleadsvisitorsonaconvolutedroutetotheinnerenclosure.Thecastleisencircledbythreespiralingmoats,withanouter,medialandinteriorenclosure.Withintheinteriorenclosure,theonlyoneextanttoday,areNishinomaru(westernenclosure),Sannomaru(thirdenclosure)andBizenmaru(innermostenclosure),acombinedareaof54acres(22ha).Theentireoriginalcastleoccupiedanareatentimesthatsize.ThelivingquartersoftheIkedalordswerelocatedintheBizenmaru,andfortheHondaclan,theSannomaru.
LEGENDSOFHIMEJICASTLEHimejiCastleisfullofstoriesofintrigue,betrayalandsacrifice.HerearethestoriesofOkiku,SenhimeandSakuraGenbei.
WHISPERSFROMOKIKU’SWELLIn1470,AoyamaTessan,achiefretainerofKoderaNorimoto,beganplottingagainsthislord.AnotherofKodera’sretainers,KinugasaMotonobu,grewsuspiciousandsenthisgirlfriendKikutospyonAoyama.Theplotwasfoiled.AoyamawasfuriousandfalselychargedherwithlosingoneoftenvaluabledishesfromtheAoyama’sfamilytreasure.Shewastorturedandherbodythrownintoawell.Fromthenon,everynighthersadvoicecouldbeheardcountingdishes.Somebelievedtherewasasecretpassagewayatthebottomofthewellleadingoutofthecastleandthestoryhadbeenconcoctedtopreventpeoplegoingnearthewell.Nopassage,however,haseverbeenfound.
THEMASTERCARPENTER’SDISTRESSSakuraGenbeiwasthemastercarpenterofHimejiCastle.Afterthemaintowerwascompleted,hebroughthiswifetothecastletoshowherhiswork.Unfortunately,sheobservedthatthetowerseemedtobeleaningslightlytothesoutheast.SodistressedwasSakurabyhispoorworkmanshipthatheclimbedtothetopofthetowerandleapttohisdeathwithachiselinhismouth.
SENHIMEPrincessSen(Senhime)wasthegranddaughterofTokugawaIeyasu.InapoliticalalliancebetweentheTokugawaandToyotomihousesin1600,shewasmarriedtoToyotomiHideyori(ToyotomiHideyoshi’sson)whenshewassixyearsold.AfterOsakaCastlefelltoanattackbyhergrandfather,Ieyasu,in1615,Hideyoricommittedritualsuicide(seppuku).IeyasupromisedSenhime’shandinmarriagetowhoeversavedherfromtheburningcastle.ShewasrescuedbutrefusedtomarryhersaviourbecauseshehadfalleninlovewithHondaTadatoki,ahandsomeyoungsamuraiwhomshemetshortlyafter.Herheartbrokenrescuercommittedsuicide.SenhimethenmarriedHondaandmovedtoHimejiCastlewheretheyhadason,Kochiyo,andadaughter,Katsuhime.Hersondiedwhenhewasthreeyearsold,andnotlongafterherhusbanddiedoftuberculosisattheageof31.Inhergrief,shebecameaBuddhistnunandreturnedtoEdowhereherbrotherIemitsu,thethirdshogun,presentedherwithabeautifulmansion.Shelivedthereuntilshewas70.HerdaughterKatsumarriedIkedaMitsumasa,theLordofOkayama,inBizenprovince.
TheNinomonisatwo-storytunnelgate(anamon).Thisgateslowedtheadvanceofanattackingarmybylimitingthenumberofsoldierswhocouldpassthroughthenarrow,darktunnel.
Defendingsoldiersinthetowerabovecouldpullupthefloorboardsandattackintruderspassingthrough.
TheHyakkenyaguraisa984ft(300m)-longcorridormadeupofaseriesofsmallrooms.Followingthecurveofthehill,itoverlookstheNishinomaru(westernenclosure)whereHondaTadatokiandhiswife,PrincessSenhime,livedintheirpalacecalledChushomaru.Princess
Senhime’smanymaids-in-waitinglivedintheHyakkenyagura.Theendroom(closest)wascalledtheKesshoyagura(cosmetictower).PrincessSenhimecameheretorestinprivate.
InsidetheHyakkenyagura.
LocatedonthenorthsideoftheSannomaru,theHishinomon(diamondgate)vetsaccesstotheNinomaru.Thetwo-storyYaguramon(towergate)hasornatebell-shapedwindows(katomado)
withgoldleafdecoration.
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Ofthe84originalgates,21remainatHimejiCastle.Theytakevariousforms,fromhighlydecoratedtwo-storytowergates,suchasHishinomon,toasmallopeninginastonewall(uzumimon).Otherkindsofgatesincluderidgepolegates(munemon),Koreangates(koraimon)andtunnelgates(anamon).TheyaregenerallynamedaccordingtotheJapanesealphabet:I,Ro,Ha,Niandsoforth.ThesixgatesnearthemainTenshuarecalledMizuichimon,Mizunimon(firstwatergate,secondwatergate,etc.).Assignedtasterswouldcheckthewaterforpoisoningeachtimetheypassed.SmallergatesclosetotheinnerenclosureandTenshusloweddownaninvadingarmy.Otherscouldbeblockedwithstones.
AsyouapproachthemainTenshu,thegatesbecomenarrower,lowerandhardertobreakthrough.VisitorshavetobenddowntoenterMizuichimon,thefirstwatergate,andMizunimon
through.VisitorshavetobenddowntoenterMizuichimon,thefirstwatergate,andMizunimon(shownhere),thesecondwatergate.ThesmallRumongate(above)couldbefilledinwithrocks
toblocktheenemy.
ThesmallRumongatecouldbefilledinwithrockstoblocktheenemy.
TheTenshuwasusedasalookout,asalastlineofdefenceandasaplaceto
TheTenshuwasusedasalookout,asalastlineofdefenceandasaplacetostoreweaponsandprovisions.Wallswerelinedwithrackstoholdguns,whilegunpowderandfuseswerehunginbagsoutofreachhighuponthewallsonbamboohooks.Whenneeded,astringwaspulled,breakingthebamboohook.
ABURAKABE(OILWALL)ItisbelievedthatToyotomiHideyoshibuiltthiswallin1580.Composedofamixtureofmountainsoil,peagravel,ricewashingwaterandriceporridge,theAburakabewallisashardasconcrete.
FAMILYCRESTSATHIMEJICASTLEEightdifferentfamilycrestscanbeseenontheendtilesatHimejiCastle,revealingthemanychangesinlordsoverthecastle’shistory.
Cross
KurodaYoshitaka(Kanbei),1567.HighlyintelligentandaChristian,hewasToyotomiHideyoshi’smilitaryadvisor.HeturnedthecastleovertoHideyoshiduringtheWesterncampaignof1577–82.
Five–ThreePaulowniaLeaf
Toyotomi,1580.Hashiba(Toyotomi)Hideyoshibuiltathree-storytenshuonHimeyama,whichwascompletedin1582.FromherehelaunchedthecampaignagainstTottoriCastleandthewatersiegeofTakamatsuCastle.
DuringtheTokugawaperiod(1603–1868),31lordsweresenttoHimejiCastle.Theimportanceofthislocationasagatewaybetweentheeasternandwesternprovincesmeantthatifalordwassicklyortooyoung,theshogunreplacedhimimmediately.MostofthedaimyowhohadbeenontheToyotomisideattheBattleofSekigaharain1600,andwerethusoutsidelords,livedinthewesternprovinces,sowerenevertrustedbytheTokugawashogunateandhadtobecloselywatched.
ButterflyWithRaisedWings
Ikeda,1600.AftertheBattleofSekigaharain1600,TokugawaIeyasuplacedIkedaTerumasaatHimejiCastlewithanincomeof980,000koku.AlthoughIkedahadinitiallybeenantagonistictowardTokugawaIeyasu,beingalliedtoOdaNobunagaandToyotomiHideyoshi,hemarriedIeyasu’sseconddaughterontheordersofToyotomiHideyoshitocementpoliticalandmilitaryalliances.HewaspopularlyknownasthecommanderofwesternJapan.Ikedarebuiltandenlargedthecastlefrom1601to1609usingthelatesttechnologyandassistedbythewesterndaimyo,asrequiredbytheshogun.After18years,however,hisheir,Mitsumasa,wastransferredtoTottori.
StandingHollyhockTrefoil
HondaTadamasa,1617.HewasaprinciplesupporteroftheTokugawafamilyandthesonofTakakatsu,whowasagreatfriendofTokugawaIeyasu.HondawasappointedtocommandthewesternregionofJapan.Heundertookextensivecivilengineeringprojects,addingthethirdenclosure(Sannomaru)andwesternenclosure(Nishinomaru),expandingthecastleitselfanddredgingtheSenbaRivertoconnectthecastletonearbyShikamabyboat.HissonTadatokimarriedSenhime(PrincessSen),TokugawaIeyasu’sgranddaughter,whohadbeenmarriedtoToyotomiHideyoriwhenshewassix.
WaterPlantain
MatsudairaTadaaki,1639.TheadoptedheirbyhisgrandfatherTokugawaIeyasu,hediedatthecastleafteronlyfiveyears.Hisheir,Tadahiro,wasfoundtobeanunderachieverandconsequentlywastransferredtoYamagatainnortheastJapan.
ThreeTomoe,Whorls
MatsudairaNaomoto,1648.GrandsonofIeyasuandfourthsonofthesecondshogun,Hidetada,hewastransferredfromYamagatatoEdoCastlebutfellillanddiedbeforeassuminghispostatHimejiCastle.
GenjiWheel
SakakibaraTadatsugu,1649.Hecarriedoutextensiverepairsonthecastlein1657.
SpearPointsAroundWoodSorrell
SakaiTadazumi,1747.TheSakaifamilyremainedatHimejifor120years.
SUBSTITUTESTONES
BuildingstoneswerescarcewhenToyotomiHideyoshibuilttheoriginalthree-storyTenshuatHimejiin1580.Manyweredonatedorappropriated,suchaslanternbasesfromtemples,stonecoffinsandeventhemillstonefromanoldlocalwoman.AlanternbasecanbeseenattheHamon.AmillstoneisvisibleneartheentrancetotheKoshikuruwaandastonecoffinnowsitsattheBizenmon.
DIRECTIONS
Thecastleisa15minutewalkfromthenorthexitofJRHimejiStationora5minutebusride.
H
HikoneCastle1602–1622
ikoneCastlewasestablishedontheroutebetweenEdoandKyotoinordertomonitortheToyotomifamilyinOsakaandtheirsupportersinthewestofJapan.OmiprovincehadbeenthedomainofIshidaMitsunari,wholedtheToyotomiloyalistsattheBattleofSekigaharain1600againsttheTokugawa.AfterIshida’sdefeat,hiscastleatSawayamawasdestroyedandtheprovinceawardedtooneofTokugawaIeyasu’smosttrustedandinfluentialgenerals,IiNaomasa.IiNaomasaledtheRedDevils,acorpsoffiercewarriorswhoworeredlacqueredarmorandcarriedredbannersintobattle.
Iidiedofbattlewoundsin1601beforehecouldbeginconstructionofacastleonthenearbysiteofHikone.HissonNaokatsubegantheprojectin1602,assistedbytheMinisterofConstructionand12lordsonordersfromtheTokugawashogunate.Taking20yearstocomplete,thecastleofferedexcellentdefensiveandoffensivecapabilitiesbut,fortunately,wasneverattacked.Beforelong,Naomasa’ssonNaokatsuprovedhimselftobeincompetentandwasreplacedbyhisillegitimatebrother,Naotaka.NaotakasuccessfullyledtheIicontingentintobattleatthesiegeofOsakaCastlein1614.Asaresult,heinheritedHikoneCastleanditssurroundingprovincewithanannualincomeof350,000koku.FourteenlordsfromtheIiclansubsequentlyruledHikoneforthenext260years.TheheadoftheIiclanheldtheimportantpostofTairo,greatcouncillortotheTokugawashogun,throughouttheEdoera.
ThesmallbutbeautifullyproportionedTenshuisover400yearsold.Cuspedgables,bell-shapedwindowsandthecontrastingcolorsofwhiteplaster,blacktimberandgoldleafmakethisoneof
themoststunningoriginalTenshuinJapantoday.
TheTenbinyagura(balancingscaletower)atHikoneCastleprotectedthesoutheastsideofthe
castle.Toapproachthecastle,itisnecessarytoturn180degreesunderthewoodenbridge,thenmakeanother180degreeturntoapproachtheTenbinyagura.Castledefenderscouldfiredownonintrudersfromtheirelevatedpositionsoverlookingtheapproach.Thewoodenbridgecouldalsobedemolished,cuttingoffaccesstotheinnerenclosure.Thestonebaseontheright-handsideoftheTenbinyaguraisinthegobozumistyleofpiling.TheleftwasreconstructedintheEdoeraandisintheuchikomihagistyle.TheTenbinyagurawasoriginallytheOtemon(maingate)ofToyotomiHideyoshi’sNagahamaCastleandwastransferredherearound1603.Itistheonly
exampleofagateofthisshapeinJapan.
Alongwithkeepingintrudersout,gatesproclaimedtheimportanceofthelord.Unsightlynailheadswerecoveredwithnailcoverings(kugi-kakushi)intheshapeofflowers,spears,circlesordiamonds.BehindthisdoortotheTenbinyaguratower,thedrystonewallrevealshowthewallwasconstructed.Chiselsmarkonthelargestonesshowthemethodusedtosplitstones.Gapsbetweenthelargestoneswerefilledwithsmallpebblesthatcouldberemovedandusedas
missilesintheeventofaninvasion.
TheNishinomarusanjuyagura,thethree-storytowerinthewesternenclosure,protectedthe
TheNishinomarusanjuyagura,thethree-storytowerinthewesternenclosure,protectedthewesternsideofthecastle.ThepathleadstotheKuromon.
POINTSOFINTEREST
HikoneCastlehasanumberoforiginalbuildingswithinitsextensivegrounds,manyofwhichareuniqueamongJapanesecastlestoday:theUmaya(horsestables),theTenbinyagura(balancinggate),theadjacentGenkyuengardenwithresidencesandateahouse,andtheUmoreginoya(lodge).IiNaosuke,the13thlordoftheHikoneclan,studiedmartialarts,poetryandteaceremonyatthelodgebeforeenteringthegovernmentatEdo.
Thethree-levelTenshuintheHonmarucombinesskilfullygabledroofs(kirizumahafu),half-hippedroofs(irimoyahafu)andcuspedgables(karahafu).Blackcuspedwindows(katomado)andpushoutwindows(renjimado)contrastdramaticallywiththewhiteplasteredwalls,golddecorationandgrayrooftiles.TheTenshu,originallyconstructedatOtsuin1575,wasmovedtoHikonein1602.Itisanolderborogatastyleofkeephousingawatchtoweronthetopfloor.Insteadofahugecentralpillar(toshibashira)runningfromthebasementtothetopofthestructure,whichisusualinmultilevelJapanesebuildings,eachsuccessiveflooroftheTenshuwasanindependentaddition.
Fourhiddenrooms(kakushibeya)arefoundwithintheTenshuundertheprojectingroofgablesontheeastandwestsideofthesecondfloor,andonthenorthandsouthsideofthethirdfloor.Eachroomislargeenoughtofitfivepeople.Hiddenshootingholes(tepposama)linethewallsoftheTenshu.Plasteredoverontheoutside,theycouldbeeasilypiercedintheeventofanattack.Insidetheyappearaswoodenapertures,eithersquareortriangularinshape.ThenorthsideoftheTenshuhasadoublewallfilledwithstones,makingitbulletproof.EntrytotheTenshuisthroughtheadjoiningsingle-storyTamonyagura.
TheJihosho(time-keepingbell)wasoriginallylocatedinthelowerKanenomaru.ItwasmovedhigheruptotheentrancetotheHonmarubythe12thlord,IiNaoaki,inorderthatitssoundwould
reachtheentirecastletown.Itisstillrungfivetimesaday.
AviewofthelakeintheGenkyuenfromtheHoshodai(guesthouse).TheIilordsofHikoneentertainedtheirmostdistinguishedguestshere.
TheRakurakenisbuiltinthegoten(palace)style.Itisaone-storybuildingwithlargeslidingscreenswhichcanbeopenedorremovedtoenjoythesurroundinggardens.
ThegroundsofHikoneareextensive,coveringaround62acres(25ha).Moatssurroundtheentiresite,withenclosuresseparatedbythemiddleandinnermoats.Theoriginalgardenandotherextantbuildingsoutsidetheoutermoatprovideanideaofthecastlecomplexasitexistedintheseventeenthcentury.
TheapexoftheroofoftheUmaya(stable).Adozenhorsesbelongingtosuccessivelordsofthe
TheapexoftheroofoftheUmaya(stable).AdozenhorsesbelongingtosuccessivelordsoftheHikoneclanwerekepthere.AnImportantCulturalAsset,itistheonlyextantstablewithincastles
groundsinJapan.
TheplasteredapexoftheNinomarusawaguchitamonyagura,whichprotectstheentrancetotheNishinomaru.Plasteringthetimberbuildingsaffordedgreaterprotectionagainstfire.
Theoriginaltimberbeamsinsidethe400-year-oldTenshu.
Situatedatthefootoftheinnercastlegrounds,theGenkyuengardenwasconstructedin1677.Landscapedaroundalargepond,thegardenisbelievedtobemodeledonthedetachedpalaceofEmperorGensooftheTangdynastyinancientChina.TreesandrocksimitatingtheEight
ViewsoftheOmiregion,ChikubuIslandandtheWhiteRocksofOkiareartfullyarrangedinthegarden.SuccessivegenerationsofIiLordsentertainedguestsintheHoshodaibesidethelake.
DIRECTIONS
A15minutewalkupthemainroadnorthwestofHikoneStation.Fiveminutesbytaxi.
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NijoCastle1602
ijoCastlewasbuiltbyTokugawaIeyasuin1602.AfterhisvictoryattheBattleofSekigaharain1600,IeyasuneededtosendaclearmessagetotheemperorandwarlordsthroughoutJapanthattheTokugawahadtakenoverfromtheToyotomiasthemostpowerfuldaimyo.AllwesterndaimyowereorderedtoassistinconstructionasretributionforopposingtheTokugawaattheBattleofSekigahara.Thisstrategydepletedtheirresources,therebylimitingtheirabilitytorebelagainstthenewTokugawashogunate.OncompletionofthesumptuousNinomaruPalacein1603,Ieyasuentertainedroyalcourtiersandfeudallordsoverthreedaysincelebrationofhisinstallationasshogun.NijoCastlewassubsequentlyusedasabasefortheshoshidai,theTokugawashogunate’sgovernorofKyoto,whosemainrolewastomonitortheactivitiesoftheemperorandhiscourt.
SeveralsignificanteventstookplaceatNijoCastleduringtheTokugawareignfrom1603to1868.In1611,18-year-oldToyotomiHideyori,accompaniedbyKatoKiyomasafromKumamoto,wasfatefullyinterviewedbyTokugawaIeyasu.Unfortunately,Hideyori’sintellectandcompetenceswereconsideredapotentialthreattothestabilityofthenewTokugawashogunate.IeyasuthussetouttodestroyHideyoriandtheToyotomiline.ThishedidbybesiegingOsakaCastlein1614and1615,usingNijoCastleashisheadquarters.Hideyori’sally,KatoKiyomasa,meanwhile,haddiedsuddenlyofsuspectedpoisoninguponhisreturnfromNijoCastle.
ThefrontgateofNijoCastle,calledHigashiotemon,isatwo-storygatehousesetintoastonewall.Theenormoustimbergateisreinforcedwithiron.TotheleftistheBansho(guardhouse)builtin
1608.Some50guardswerestationedhereatatimebetweentheyears1634and1863.
Over400yearsold,theNinomarugoten(1603–26)isarareextantexampleofashoin-stylepalaceoftheearlyEdoera.Comprisingaseriesoffivelinkedbuildings—Tozamurai,Shikidai,Ohiroma,KuroshoinandShiroshoin—thepalacepresidesoverapondandrockgarden.The
preciousinteriorpaintingsarebyartistsofthefamousEdoeraKanoSchool.
In1626,NijoCastlewasrenovatedanditsgroundsextended.Theinnermost
In1626,NijoCastlewasrenovatedanditsgroundsextended.Theinnermostenclosure,Honmaru,wasadded,moreresidentialbuildingswereerectedandthefive-storyTenshufromFushimiCastlewasrelocatedtothesouthwestcorneroftheHonmaru.TheserenovationswereundertakeninpreparationforavisitfromEmperorGomizuno-o,whostayedforfivedaysandwaslavishlyentertainedbytheretiredShogunHidetadaandhisson,thethirdshogun,Iemitsu.Onceagain,thisintensebuildingprogramandelaboratefestivitiesservedtodisplaythemightoftheTokugawashogunate.
In1634,ShogunTokugawaIemitsuledaforceof300,000mentoKyotoinashowofmilitarymighttotheImperialcourtandthedaimyoofwesternJapan.ThiswasthelastvisitofanyshoguntotheImperialcourtuntiltheMeijiRestoration.In1750,thecastle’sTenshuwasstruckbylightninganddestroyed.AnewtowerwasdeemedunnecessaryandsotheTenshuremainedinruins.TheHonmarupalacesweredestroyedinKyoto’sGreatFireof1788.
In1867,inresponsetotheImperialcourtandseveralsoutherndaimyo,the15th-generationShogunTokugawaYoshinobuassembledallfeudallordsinNijoCastle’sOhiromatowitnesshisdeclarationoftherestorationofImperialrule.Thefollowingyear,EmperorMeijivisitedNijoCastlewhereheorderedthesubjugationofthebakufu(shogunalgovernment)atanassemblyheldintheShiroshoin.TheTokugawafamilyweredeclaredcriminals.NijoCastlewasthereforethesiteofthebeginningandtheendoftheTokugawareign.
TheNinomarugotenKaramonwastakenfromFushimiCastleintheearlyseventeenthcentury.ItselaboratedecorationistypicalofthestyleoftheAzuchi-Momoyamaera(1576–1600).Duringrenovationsin2013,workersdiscoveredametalImperialchrysanthemumemblemcoveringan
earlierhollyhockcrestoftheTokugawa,indicatinganattempttoerasetracesofformerownership.
SuperbcraftsmanshipandattentiontodetailatNijoCastlerevealtheTokugawa’sintentiontoimpressasmuchastocreateastronghold.
TheImperialcourtrequisitionedthebuildingsandgroundsin1872.JurisdictionoverthecastlewastransferredtotheKyotoPrefecturalOffice.In1885,thesitewasrenamedtheNijoDetachedPalace,withresponsibilityforthesitepassingtotheImperialHouseholdDepartment.TheoldpalaceoftheKatsuraImperialfamilywasrelocatedfromtheKyotoImperialPalacetotheHonmaruwhereitcanbeseentoday.In1939,thesitewasdonatedtoKyotoCity,andin1994UNESCOregistereditasaWorldCulturalHeritageSite.
TheformerKatsuranomiyaPalace,builtin1847,wasremovedfromitsoriginalsiteandrebuiltintheHonmaruin1893.TheoriginalpalaceonthissitecamefromFushimiCastlein1626butwas
destroyedbyfirein1788.
Thewhiteplasteredmudwalloriginallyextendedfromthecornertowersaroundtheperimeterofthecastlegrounds.Stone-droppingwindowsandshootingholeswerelocatedatstrategicpoints.
ViewoftheUchibori(innermoat)andNishibashi(westbridge)fromthe49ft(15m)-highTenshubaseintheHonmaru.Thefive-storyTenshuwasrelocatedfromFushimiCastlein1626.Itwas
neverrebuiltafterbeingstruckbylightningin1750anddestroyed.
TheNinomarugardenisconceivedaroundalargepondborderedbyvarioussizedstones.Inthepond’scenterarethreeislands:Horaijima(IslandofEternalHappiness),Tsurujima(Crane
Island),andKamejima(TurtleIsland).ThedesignofthegardenisattributedtothefamousteamasterandlandscapedesignerKoboriEnshu.TheKuroshoinoftheNinomarugotenisonthe
right.
POINTSOFINTEREST
TherearenumerousImportantCulturalPropertieswithinthe69acre(28ha)NijoCastlesite:theNinomarugotenkaramon(gatetothesecondenclosure),
NijoCastlesite:theNinomarugotenkaramon(gatetothesecondenclosure),Tsujibei(longearthernwall),Daidokoro(kitchen),Higashiotemon(easternfrontgate),Ninomarutonansumiyagura(southeastcornerturret),Ninomaruseinansumiyagura(southwestcornerturret)Ninomarudozo(storehouse),Honmarugoten(innerenclosurepalace)andNinomarukitaotemon(northgate).
TheNinomarugotenisanimportantsurvivingexampleofthelavishAzuchi-Momoyamastyle.Thepalaceconsistsoffivelinkedbuildings,staggeredtoaffordaviewovertheNinomarugardenandcentralpond,designedbythefamousteamasterandlandscapedesignerKoboriEnshu(1579–1647).Constructedofcypress(hinoki),thepalacecomprises33roomsandcoversanareaof800tatamimats.TheinteriorholdsmanypreciousexamplesoffineartfromtheAzuchi-Momoyamaera.Slidingdoorsandwallsarecoveredingoldleafanddepictionsoftigers,leopards,bamboo,pinetrees,heronsandflorahavebeenpaintedbyartistsoftheKanoSchool.Ornatetransomscarvedoutofmassivecypressblockshangabovetheslidingdoors.
ThewoodenfloorsfromtheentranceoftheNinomarugotentotheOhiroma(grandchambers)‘squeak’whenwalkedon.Thebird-likesoundoftheUguisubari(‘Nightingalefloor’)providesawarningtotheoccupantsofintrudersenteringthecomplex.
TimbersupportsintheplasteredmudwallthatsurroundsNijoCastle.
TheornatedecorationintheceilingoftheKaramonistypicaloftheostentatiousMomoyamaperiod,namedafterToyotomiHideyoshi’sFushimiCastleatMomoyama.
DIRECTIONS
BusNo.9,50or101fromJRKyotoStationtoNijojomaebusstop(15minutes).
SubwayTozaiLinetoNijojomaeStation(10minutes).
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T
OsakaCastle1583
helocationofOsakaCastlehasmadeitoneofthemostcontestedsitesinJapanesehistory.Meaning‘greatslope,’theraisedgroundofOsakaissurroundedbyriverstothenorthandeastandbytheseatothewest,makingitdifficulttosiegeyeteasytodefend.LocatedincentralJapan,OsakawasclosetotheImperialcapitalofKyotoandaccessibletoboththewesternandnorthernprovinces.
OsakawasinitiallythesiteoftheIshiyamaHonganji,atemplebelongingtotheJodoShinsho(PureLand)Buddhistsect.ThesepowerfulmilitantmonksstoodinthewayofOdaNobunaga’squesttounifyJapaninthemid-sixteenthcentury.Afteryearsofunsuccessfullytryingtoejectthem,anagreementwasreachedin1580withtheaidoftheImperialcourt.IkedaShonyu,oneofNobunaga’svassals,thenoccupiedthesite.
ToyotomiHideyoshibecameJapan’smostpowerfulwarlordfollowingNobunaga’sdeathin1582.HechoseOsakaasthesitetobuildhiscastle.Usingtheresourcesofthedaimyonowunderhiscontrol,ToyotomibuiltacastletorivalOda’srevolutionaryAzuchiCastleinscale,strengthandopulence.Constructionbeganin1583,withtheworklastingfiveyears.Approximately100,000laborersdrawnfromeveryprovinceworkeddayandnightonthecastle.Some60,000mentoiledforthreemonthstodigtheinnerandoutermoats,about1.8miles(3km)and5miles(8km)inlength,respectively,andupto23ft(7m)deepand295ft(90m)wide.Timberfortheenormousprojectwashauledfrom28provinces.
OsakaCastle’sfan-shapedstonewallsrisemorethan65.6ft(20m)abovethemoats.Thecastlegroundsarelaidoutinthedoshinenstyle,wherbytheHonmaru(innerenclosure)issurroundedbyaninnermoat,withanoutermoatsurroundingtheouterenclosures.Themainentrancetothecastle(atleft)leadstoamasugatamon(box-shapedgate).Asmallkoraimon(post-and-beamgate)allowsaccesstoalargecourtyard,surroundedontwosideswithalongtowerfromwhichsoldierswerestationed.Uponenteringthekoraimon,itwasnecessarytoturnlefttogothrough
theyaguramon(towergate)togainaccesstotheNishinomaru(westernenclosure).
ToyotomiHideyoshidiedin1598,leavinghisfive-year-oldheir,Hideyori,inthecareoffiveregents.Oneofthesemen,MaedaToshiie,movedtoOsakaasHideyori’sguardianandthegovernorofthecastle.However,whenMaedadiedthefollowingyear,theremainingfourregentsprovedunabletogoverntogether,resultinginashowdownatSekigaharain1600.ThisbattlebetweendaimyoloyaltoToyotomiHideyoshi(thewesternor‘loyalist’forces)andtheeasternarmyledbyTokugawaIeyasu,waswonbytheTokugawaside,givingTokugawaabsolutecontroloverthedaimyo.HideyoriremainedatOsakaCastleandIeyasugavehimtheprovincesofSettsu,KawachiandIzumiwithanannualrevenuetotaling650,000koku.TofurtherdisplayhisallegiancetoHideyori,thenewlyappointedShogunTokugawaIeyasupromisedthehandofhissix-year-oldgranddaughterinmarriage.
Theeight-storyTenshuofOsakaCastleislocatedintheHonmaru.
HugestonesflanktheOteguchi(mainentrance)asawaytoimpressvisitorstothecastle.
AlthoughtheTokugawashogunatespentthenext12yearsconsolidatingtheirpowerbyreshufflingdaimyoterritories,issuingstrictlawsformilitaryhousesanddepletingtheirenemies’resourcesthroughbuildingcampaigns,thethreatofToyotomiloyalistsraisinganarmyagainsttheTokugawashogunateremainedwhilstHideyoriwasalive.OnthepretextofbeinginsultedbythewordingonabellHideyorihadcastin1614,IeyasulaidsiegetoOsakaCastleinthewinterof1614–15.Manyoftheoutermoatswerefilledinanddefensesdestroyed.TheTokugawaforcesreturnedinthefollowingsummerof1615.ThistimeOsakaCastlewasrazedandHideyoriandhismother,Yodogimi,
committedritualsuicide.OsakaCastlewasnowinthehandsoftheTokugawashogunate.In
recognitionofitsstrategicimportance,Ieyasu’sson,ShogunTokugawaHidetada,beganreconstructionin1620.Sixty-fourtozama(outsidelords)fromwesternandnorthernJapanwerecalledupontoassistinthebuildingbetween1620and1629.OsakaCastleremainedinTokugawahandsuntiltheMeijiRestoration.UndertheMeijigovernment,thecastlebecamepartoftheOsakaArmyArsenal,manufacturingguns,ammunitionandexplosivesfortheJapanesearmy.DuringWorldWarII,itwasoneoftheImperialJapaneseArmy’slargestarmories.
TheSenganyaguraprotectedtheOteguchi(mainentrance)ofthecastle.Builtin1620,thistwo-storytowerisoneoftheoldestbuildingsatOsakaCastle.TheNishisotobori(westoutermoat)is
intheforeground.
TheInuiyagura(northwesttower)istheoldesttoweratOsakaCastle.Itisunusualasthefirstandsecondstoriesareofequalsize.Thestone-droppingwindowshangoverthestonewalltoenabledefenderstodropmissilesontoattackersscalingthewallbelow.Windowshutterswerecovered
inplastertominimizeflammabilityintheeventofanattack.
POINTSOFINTEREST
Thevastgrounds,majesticfan-shapedstonewallsandextensivemoatsallheraldtheimportanceofOsakaCastle.Enclosuresarelaidoutasconcentricringsdelineatedbywetanddrymoats.Thewetoutermoatisdividedbyfourrampsprovidingaccesstotheinnerenclosures.Eachramphasafortifiedgatehouseontheinnerside.Drymoatswereexcavatednearimportantgates,suchastheSakuramon,topreventenemyboatsfromdrawingcloseduringanattack.Thenearbyriverswereusedtofillthewetmoats.Thislayoutisuncommonsinceextensiveearthworkswereneededtocreatetheringofmoats.However,sincethecastlebelongedtothesuprememilitaryleader,anabundantworkforcewas
readilyavailable.BothToyotomiHideyoshiandTokugawaHidetadaexploitedtheresourcesofdaimyoundertheircontrolin1583and1620,respectively.Contributionsbythesedaimyoaremarkedbyfamilycrestinscriptionsonthestonewalls,manyofwhichcanbeseenintheKakushikuruwaintheYamazatomaru.Somedaimyocontributedenormousstones,whichwereemplacedatimportantentrances.ThelargeststoneatOsakaCastle,measuring640sqft(60sqm),issituateddirectlythroughtheSakuramon,thegatewayintotheHonmaru.CalledtheTakoishi(octopusstone),itwaspositionedherebyOkayamadaimyoIkedaTadao.IkedawasalsoresponsibleforthehugestonespositionedattheKyobashiguchi(entrance):theHigoishi,withasurfaceareaof580sqft(54sqm),andtheKyobashiguchi-nibanishi,withanareaof387sqft(36sqm).
ThecorneroftheTenshubaseispreciselycutinthesangizumi(zipper)style.Stone-droppingwindowsprotectthevulnerablecornersofthebase,theeasiestpartofthewallstoscale.
Thisstyleofsemicircularplasterandstoneshootingholeisrarelyseenatothercastles.
Astoneandtimbershootinghole.Thesemicircleatthetopandthefunnel-shapedstoneopeningenabledsoldierstotakeaimatinvaders.
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ThecurrentTenshuisa1931concretereplicaofToyotomiHideyoshi’soriginalkeep,burntdownintheSiegeofOsakain1615.Itsdesignwascopiedfromscreenpaintings.Thesehistoricdepictions,however,showtheTenshuasblack,whereasthereconstructioniswhite.ThecurrentTenshuhaseightfloorsandhousesamuseumonthehistoryofOsakaCastle.Itsitsatopanimpressivebaseofperfectlycutandalignedrocksinthekirikomihagistyleofstonepiling.TokugawaHidetada’sTenshuwasadifferentdesignandwaslocatedelsewhereintheHonmaru.Thiskeepwasdestroyedin1868byTokugawatroopsretreatingfromImperialforces.
AviewoftheInuiyagura(northwesttower),OsakaCastle’soldesttower.Thecornerofitsfan-shapedstonebaseispreciselycutinthesangizumi(zipper)style.
AroundplasteredshootingholelooksdowntheapproachtotheOtemon.
TheKakushikuruwawasanareainthecastlewheresoldierscouldhidefromenemies.Thisenclosurehadonlyonenarrowexit,makingitdifficulttosee.Manycrestsofdaimyochargedwith
buildingthecastleareinscribedonstonesinthewallshere.
Themostcommontypeofdrystonewall,uchikomihagi(roughcutpiling).
ThirteenstructuresatOsakaCastlearedesignatedImportantCulturalAssets:IchibanyaguraandRokubanyagura(1628),theKinzostorehouse(1751),InuiyaguraonthewestoutermoatandSenganyagura(1620),theOtemon,Sakuramon,Tamonyagura,Kinmeisuiwellandanumberofsectionsofthecastlewallsaroundthefrontgate(Otemon).
ThereconstructedTenshuatOsakaCastlehaseightstories,isintheindependentstyleandhas
ThereconstructedTenshuatOsakaCastlehaseightstories,isintheindependentstyleandhasawatchtoweronitsuppermoststory.Thedesignofthis1931concretereconstructionwastaken
fromhistoricscreenpaintingsofToyotomiHideyoshi’soriginalblackkeep.
DIRECTIONS
TherearenumerouswaystogettoOsakaCastle:viathesubway,gettingoffateitherTemmabashiStation,TanimachiStation,MorinomiyaStationorOsakaBusinessParkStation;viatheJRtrainline,gettingoffatMorinomiyaStation,OsakajokoenStationorOsakajoKitazumeStation;viathecitybus,gettingoffatOtemae;viaKeihan,TemmabashiStationandtheAqualiner,gettingoffatOsakajoharbor.EntrytoOsakaCastleparkisfree,withachargetoenterthemuseum.
K
KanazawaCastle1583–1599
anazawaCastlewastheseatofthepowerfulMaedafamilyfrom1583untiltheMeijiRestorationin1868.Withanannualincomeofnearly1,200,000koku,theMaedawerethewealthiestdaimyoaftertheTokugawashogun.TheirinfluencespreadwithseparatefamilybranchesinstalledatToyamaandDaishoji.
KanazawaCastleisprotectedbyriverstotheeastandwest,theSeaofJapantothenorthandtheHakusanmountainstothesouth.Theelevatedsitewasfirstoccupiedin1546bymilitantBuddhistsoftheKyotoHonganjisect.TheirteachingsofIkko-shu,the‘single-mindedreligion,’appealedtomanylocalfarmerswhojoinedthefaith.OdaNobunaga’sarmydefeatedthesemilitantBuddhistmonksin1580afterwhichhisvassal,SakumaMorimasa,erectedacastleonthesite.FollowingOda’sdeathin1582,ToyotomiHideyoshiassumedcontrolofJapanandgaveKanazawacityandpartofIshikawatohisfriendMaedaToshiieinrewardforloyalservice.MaedaenteredthecityofKanazawain1583.
MaedaToshiiewasafiercewarriorknownasYarinoMataza(MatazatheSpearman).HeworkedhiswayupfrombeingOdaNobunaga’spageboyat13,withanincomeof125koku,tobecomeoneofthewealthiestandmostpowerfuldaimyo,withanannualincomeofnearly1,000,000kokuby1599.AlthoughaloyalfriendandallyofToyotomiHideyoshi,hewascarefulnottotakesidesandestablishedanalliancewithTokugawaIeyasubyengaginghisthree-year-oldson,Toshitsune,toIeyasu’sfive-year-oldgranddaughterin1595.Duringthenextsixgenerations,bothfamiliescontinuedtointermarry,withthetwelfth,thirteenthandfourteenthTokugawashogunsdescendantsoftheMaedaclan.
MaedaToshiiewasoneofthefiveregentschargedwithgoverningthecountryinthenameofToyotomiHideyoshi’sson,Hideyori,in1598.However,Toshiiediedthefollowingyear.AftertheBattleofSekigaharain1600,Toshiie’swife,MaedaMatsu,assuredthesafetyoftheMaedaclanbyvoluntarilygoingtoEdoasahostageoftheTokugawa.Toshiie’sheir,
Toshinaga,cleverlysidedwithTokugawaIeyasuagainstUesugiKagekatsuinthemonthsleadinguptothebattle.ForthishewasgiventhefieftakenfromhisbrotherToshimasawhohadfoughtwiththelosingToyotomiloyalists.ToshinagabecamethewealthiestdaimyoafterIeyasu,withanannualincomeof1,195,000koku.HeretiredtoToyamaCastlein1605andwassucceededbyanotherbrother,Toshitsune.
Ishikawamonisoneofthreebarbican-stylegatesatKanazawaCastle.Thisheavilyfortifiedgateisaccessedthroughthecentralpost-and-beamgate.Theinnercourtyardissurroundedbytowersfromwhichdefenderscouldshoot.Ontheleftisatwo-storytower,directlyaheadaone-story
towerandontherightatwo-storygatehousewithiron-plateddoors.
NumerousfiresdestroyedKanazawaCastle.TheTenshubuiltbythefirstlord,MaedaToshiie,intheHonmaru(mainenclosure)wasstruckbylightningandburntdownin1602.Thiswasneverrebuiltandthefunctionsofthefeudal
andburntdownin1602.Thiswasneverrebuiltandthefunctionsofthefeudalgovernmentweremovedtothelowersecondenclosure,Ninomaru.ThesurvivingpalaceintheHonmaruthenburntdownin1620.Itwasreconstructedthefollowingyearbutburntdownagaintenyearslater,in1631.AnewpalacewasconstructedintheNinomaruin1632.Some120yearslater,in1759,anotherfirenearlyguttedtheentirecastle.TheNinomarupalaceandHashizumemonwerereconstructedin1762.In1808,theNinomarupalacewasburntdownyetagainalongwiththeHishiyagura.Bothwerereconstructedshortlyafter.
In1869,thefourteenthMaedalordreturnedhislandandtitletothegovernmenttobeusedasamilitarybarracks.FirerazedtheNinomarupalace,HashizumemonandGojikkennagayain1881.OccupiedbyKanazawaUniversityfrom1949to1995,thesitewaspurchasedbytheIshikawaPrefecturalGovernmentandturnedintoapublicpark.ThecurrentHashizumemon,Gojikkennagaya,Hishiyagura,TsuzukiyaguraandKahokumonhaveallbeenreconstructedusingauthenticmaterialsandtraditionalconstructiontechniques.
Gojikkennagaya,Hashizumemon-tsuzukiyaguraandHishiyagura(inforeground),viewedfromtheSannomaru(thirdenclosure).ThesebuildingsprotectedtheNinomarupalaceandadministrativebuildings.TheHishiyagura(diamondtower)isa56ft(17m)-highthree-storybuildingona38ft(11.7m)stonebase.Itsnamederivedfromitsdiamond-shapedwalls,withanglesof80and100degrees.Thepostsarealsodiamondshaped,requiringsophisticatedconstructiontechniques
duringthe2001reconstruction.TheHishiyagurawasusedasawatchtowerandplacewherethelordmethisvassals.TheGojikkennagayawasastoreforweapons.TheHashizumemon-
tsuzukiyaguraguardedthegatewaybetweentheSannomaruandNinomaru.
AsmallkoraimonallowsentryfromtheSannomaruintotheheavilydefendedcourtyardoftheHashizumemon.
TheKahokumonisthefrontgateleadingtotheSannomaru.LocatedontopofKahokuzaka(Kahokuhill),itcomprisestheIchinomon(firstgate),Ninomon(secondgate),dobei(earthernwallssurroundingthecourtyard)andNiramiyaguradai(watchtower).ThetimbershootingholesbesidetheIchinomonareaccessedbyclimbingthestonesteps.Thesmallopeningisplastered
ontheexteriorwallandbrokenwhenevernecessary.
POINTSOFINTEREST
KanazawaCastlecomprises12enclosures.Fourmajormoatsencirclethesitewithtwosmallermoatsdividingtheinnerenclosures.TheHonmaru,situatedonthehighestground,originallycontainedthreetowersandthelord’sresidence.NextinimportancewastheNinomaruwherethelord’spalacewasbuiltafterfiredestroyedtheHonmaruin1631.TheSannomaruandtheTsurunomaruhadtobecrossedbeforereachingtheNinomaruandHonmaru.Twomasugatamon(barbican-stylegateways)protectedtheNinomaru,Ishikawamonand
Kahokumon.
Thecomplexlayoutcreatedbygates,towers,enclosuresandmudwallsdeterredwould-beattackersandsloweddownintruderswhopenetratedthecastlegrounds.
Seacucumberwalls(namakobei)areafeatureofKanazawaCastle.Thestonetilesaddanextralayerofprotectiontotheplasteredmudwalls.Theroundedraisedplasterbetweenthetilesgivesthesewallsthenameoftheseacucumber(namako).Thesmalltowerhasatrapdooroverhangingthemoat.Thiscanbeliftedfrominsidethetowerandstonesorothersuchmissilesthrowndown
ontointruders.
CASTLESOFTHEMAEDAFAMILY
ArakoMaedaToshiharuwaslordofArakoinOwari(Aichiprefecture).Hewaspaid5,000kokutofightforOdaNobunaga.Hisfourthson,Toshiie,bornin1538,becameapageforOdaNobunagawhenhewas13.Anaggressivefighter,Toshiiewasrewardedaftereachbattlewithadditionalrevenue.By1568hisincomehadgrowntoaround1,000koku.In1579.ToshiiewasnominatedbyNobunagaaslordofArako,replacinghisfather.
NanaoOdaNobunagagaveMaedaToshiietheNotoareain1581,wherehebuiltNanaoCastle.Hereceivedanannualincomeof200,000koku.Theremainsoffieldstonewallscanbeseenatthesite.
KanazawaIn1583,ToshiiewasgrantedKanazawacityandpartofIshikawaforhisloyalservicetoToyotomiHideyoshi.
KomatsuOnhiswayhomefromdefeatingthelordofDaishyojiCastlein1600,Toshiie’sson,MaedaToshinaga,foughtNiwaNagashige,lordofKomatsuCastle.NiwawaslaterremovedfromhispostandKomatsuCastlebecamepartoftheMaedaholdings.AnewcastlewasbuiltatKomatsuin1640forMaedaToshitsune,thethirdlordofKanazawaCastle,toretireto.OriginallyconstructedinaweedyswampsurroundedbytheKakehashiRiver,itwasalsocalledthe‘FloatingCastle.’InmatesfromKomatsuprison,actingongovernmentorders,destroyeditin1872.Onlythestonebaseremains.
ToyamaToyamaCastlewasoriginallybuiltin1543byapowerfulclanledbyMizukoshiKatsuhige.In1581,thegovernorofToyama,SassaNarimasa(appointedbyOdaNobunaga),strengthenedandimprovedthecastledefences.AfterOdaNobunaga’sdeath,NarimasawasunsuccessfulinhiscampaigntodefeatOda’ssuccessor,ToyotomiHideyoshi.ToyamaCastleandthesurroundingareasweregiventoToshinagaMaedain1585.Hiseldestson,
CastleandthesurroundingareasweregiventoToshinagaMaedain1585.Hiseldestson,Toshimasa,tookchargeofthecastlein1597.Itburntdownin1609andlayneglecteduntil1639whenToshitsugu,thesecondsonofToshitsune,movedin.ThirteengenerationsofMaedaruledToyamaoveraperiodof232yearsuntiltheMeijiRestoration.TheTenshuwasdestroyedinairraidsduringWorldWarII.ThecurrentTenshuisaconcretereconstruction.
TakaokaAnewcastlewasbuiltatTakaokaafterToyamaCastleburntdownin1609.Nocastlebuildingsremain,althoughthegroundshavebeenturnedintoaparksurroundedbytheoriginalmoats.
DaishojiMaedaToshitsunesplitKagahanintothreeprovincesin1639,creatingDaishojihaninEnumagun,andToyamahaninEtchuken.Heinstalledhissecondson,Toshitsugi,asthefirstlordofToyamaandhisthirdson,Toshiharu,asthefirstlordofDaishoji,thecastleofYamaguchiMunenaga,whowasdefeatedbyMaedaToshinagain1600.
KahokumontakenfromtheSannomarulookingbackintothecourtyardofthegate.Soldierscouldfiredownontointrudersfromthistwo-storyyaguramon(two-storygatehouse).
TheGojikkennagayaandHashizumemonfromtheNinomaru.
Thetimberstone-droppingwindowswithanundulatinggable(karahafu)areuniquetoKanazawaCastle.
Seacucumberwalls(namakobei),so-namedbecausetheraisedplasterbetweenthetilesresemblestheshapeofaseacucumber(namako),areafeatureofKanazawaCastle.Thestonetilesattachedtoaplasteredwallprovidestrengthandprotecttheplasterfromtheelements.
KanazawaCastleliesbesideKenrokuen,oneofJapan’smostcelebratedgardens.Thefifthlord,Tsunanori,startedthegardens,whichwereexpandedbythetwelfthandthirteenthlords.Threesetsofcontrastinggardenelementswerecreated:spaciousnessandseclusion,artificeandantiquity,andwatercoursesandpanoramas,givingrisetothenameken(combined),roku(six),en(garden).
DIRECTIONS
10minutesbytaxiorbusfromKanazawaStation.20minuteswalkfromthestation.
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T
OkayamaCastle1589–1597
hepowerfulwarlordUkitaNaoieestablishedOkayamaCastlein1573.HissonUkitaHideie,whowasalsoanadoptedsonofToyotomiHideyoshi,beganbuildingthecastleunderthedirectionofToyotomiin1589.Atrustedvassal,hewasappointedoneofToyotomi’sfiveseniorministers.Withanannualrevenueof574,000koku,Ukitawasoneofthemostpowerfuldaimyointhelatesixteenthcentury.However,hispositionchangeddramaticallyaftertheBattleofSekigaharain1600,whenhewasstrippedofhiscastleandlandsandexiledtoaremoteislandsouthofEdoforsupportingthelosingToyotomiside.
Amajorreasonforthewesternarmy’sdefeatattheBattleofSekigaharawasthedefectionofKobayakawaHideaki.KobayakawawasToyotomiHideyoshi’snephewandadoptedson.Beforethebattle,TokugawaIeyasuconvincedKobayakawatoswitchsides,whichhedid,throwingthebattleintoconfusionandsecuringvictoryfortheTokugawa.ThistriumphpavedthewayfortheTokugawa’smilitarygovernmenttoruleJapanforthenext268years.
KobayakawawasrewardedwithUkitaHideie’sprovincesofBizenandMimasaka,worth550,000koku.HemovedintoOkayamaCastlein1600.Itisbelievedhewentmadanddiedtwoyearslater,at25,withoutanheir.HisprovinceswereabsorbedbytheIkedaclan,andIkedaTadatsugu,asonofIkedaTerumasa,whowasthelordofHimejiCastle,tookoverOkayamaCastlein1602.Tadatsugu’sbrothersucceededhimin1615followedbyIkedaMitsumasafromTottori.Mitsumasa’ssuccessorsremainedatOkayamauntil1869.
Topographywasusedtogreatadvantagewhenconstructingacastletominimizecostlyandtime-consumingearthworks.TheAsahiRiverservedasanaturalmoattothenorthandeastof
OkayamaCastle.
Thepaulownia(kiri)wasthefamilycrestofToyotomiHideyoshi.AlliessuchastheUkitaandKobayakawaclansadoptedthiscrestanditisusedhereonaroofridgeendtileatOkayamaCastle.Endtilesarecalledonigawara(monstertiles)astheyoftenfeatureathreateningface.
Likeshachihoko(fish/tigertiles),onigawara‘protect’thecastlefrommisfortune.
TheRokamon(corridorgate)wasusedasapassagewaybetweentheHondan(upperenclosure)andtheOmoteshoin,thefeudalgovernmentofficelocatedintheNakanodan(middleenclosure).
Thegatewasrebuiltinconcretein1966.
Theseven-storyblackTenshuofOkayamaCastleisknownasKarasujo(CrowCastle).TheoriginalAzuchi-MomoyamastylestructuresofOkayamaweredestroyedbyanairraidinWorld
WarII.Thekeepwasreconstructedinconcretein1966.
AslordoftherichBizenprovinces,UkitaHideiebuiltacastlecommensuratewithhislargeincome.Beginningin1589andtakingeightyearstocomplete,theentirecastlecomplexcomprised35towers,21gates,a
tocomplete,theentirecastlecomplexcomprised35towers,21gates,aresidenceandgardenaswellasgovernmentoffices.Theinnerenclosurewasseparatedintotwolevels,theupper-levelHondanandthemiddle-levelNakanodan.TheTenshuandlord’sresidencewerelocatedintheHondan.GovernmentofficesoccupiedtheNakanodan.Aninnermoatsurroundedthisenclosureontwosides.TheAsahiRivercurvedaroundathird.AnoutermoatenclosedtheadjacentNinomaru,neitherofwhichremain.OkayamaCastle’s69ft(21m)-highblackTenshuhasauniquepentagonalshapedbase.Threedifferent-sizedtwo-levelbuildingsarestackedtocreatesixlevels.WhenviewedfromoutsidetheHondan,theTenshuappearstobetwisted,withitsrooflayersoutofline.Asaltstoreattachedtothecentralbuildingaddstothestructure’scomplexity.OkayamaCastleisalsoknownasU-jo(CrowCastle)becauseoftheblacktimberboardsliningtheTenshu,orKinu-jo(GoldCrowCastle)becauseofthegildedtoprooftiles.
TheTsukimiyagura(moon-viewingtower)fromtheouterenclosure.Smallshootingholesatthetopofthestonewallaresetatintervalsbeneaththelargershootingholesintheplasteredwall,
allowingforgreatergunpoweratatime.
TheRokamonfromtheNakanodan.Theslopingpathwayleadstotheouterenclosure.
Aroundshootingholeinthedobei(plasteredmudwall).
POINTSOFINTEREST
ThesitesofmanyofthetowersformerlyintheNakanodanoftheHonmaru
palacearemarkedtogiveanideaofhowwellfortifiedthecastle’sinnerenclosureoncewas.
TheoriginalfoundationstonesoftheTenshuarelaidoutintheareawheretheHondanoncestood.ThesewereemplacedwhentheTenshuwasreconstructedinconcreteafteritsdestructionbyanairraidinJune1945.
TheRokujuuichigangiuemon(gateatthetopof61steps)leadsfromtheHondantotheAsahiRiver.
TheroughlypiledstonewallsontheriversideoftheRokujuuichigangiuemonclearlyillustratehowstonewallsofearlycastleswerebuilt.TheyarequitedifferenttothewallsattheRokamon(corridorgate)built30yearslater.
OkayamaCastlewasbuiltatatimewhenfeudallordsincorporatedlargestonesintocastlefoundationsandstonewallsasawayofshowcasingtheirwealth.ManylargestonesbroughtfromInujimaIslandcanbeseenatimportantgateways.
ThesmallshootingholescarvedoutofthetopstonesofthewallsaroundtheTsukimiyaguraareunusual,althoughsimilareyeletscanbeseenatOsakaCastle.
TwotypesofstonewallbelowtheRokujuuichigangiuemon(Gateatthetopof61steps)revealrenovationstothecastle.Theearlierstonewallontheleftshowsroughfieldstonepiling
(nozurasumi).Thestonesinthelaterwallontherighthavebeencuttosizeandlaidcarefullytolockintoplace(uchikomihagi).
TheAkazunomon(unopenedgate)waslocatedatthebottomofaflightofstonestepsleadingtotheHondanwherethelord’sresidenceandTenshuwerelocated.TheOmoteshoin,thegovernmentoffice,waslocatedinthemiddle-levelNakanodan.Thisgatewascalledthe
unopenedgatebecauseitwasusuallyclosedandaroofedpassageatthenorthernendoftheHondanwascommonlyusedtomovebetweentheHondanandNakanodan.TheAkazumon,
demolishedintheMeijiera,wasreconstructedinconcretein1966.
TheTsukimiyagura(moon-viewingtower)islocatedatthenorthernendoftheNakanodan.BuiltbyIkedaTadakatsuin1620,itwasoneofthebestplacesforviewingthemoon.Itsmainfunctionhowever,wastoprotectthenorthwestcornerofthesecondenclosure.TheTsukimiyagurawas
theonlybuildingtosurvivetheairraidof1945.
DIRECTIONS
A20minutewalkor10minutebusridefromJROkayamaStation.
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I
IyoMatsuyamaCastle1602–1627
n1602,KatoYoshiakirabeganbuildingacastleonKatsuyamaontheislandofShikoku.AsasamuraiinToyotomiHideyoshi’sarmy,KatohaddistinguishedhimselfattheBattleofShizugatakein1583whenhewasonly20.KatothenwentontofightinmanyothercampaignsunderToyotomi.In1595,hewasappointedlordofMasaki,withanannualincomeof60,000koku.AfterToyotomi’sdeath,hejoinedforceswiththeTokugawasideattheBattleofSekigahara.Forhissupporthewasgivenanincomeof200,000koku.KatobuiltanewcastleatMatsuyamaincorporatinganumberofstructuresfromhispreviouscastleatnearbyMasaki.Accordingly,theInuimon(northwestgate),Higashiyagura(easttower),Inuiyagura(northwesttower)andTsutsuimon(Tsutsuigate)datefrom1595.Constructioncontinuedfor24years,butayearaftercompletionKatowastransferredtoAizuinnorthernJapan.Hisreplacement,GamoTadachika,diedsevenyearslaterwithoutanheir.MatsudairaSadayuki,amemberoftheTokugawafamily,wasnextinstalledatthecastle.Matsudaira’sdescendantsremainedatthecastleuntiltheMeijiRestorationwhenitwashandedovertotheImperialgovernment.
TheextensivegroundsofMatsuyamaCastlemakecleveruseofthenaturalterrain.Thetopofthe433ft(132m)-highKatsuyamahillwasleveledtocreatethe984ft(300m)-longmainenclosure,Honmaru.Thisenclosureissurroundedby33ft(10m)-highstonewalls.MidwayuptheheavilyforestedhillistheNinomaru,thesiteoftheadministrativequartersandlord’sresidence.TheSannomaruissurroundedbyamoatandlocatedatthebottomofthehillonthewesternside.RetainersandsamuraiwerehousedintheSannomaruwhileartisansandmerchantslivedoutsidethemoattotheeastandwest.Templeswereclusteredtothenorth.KatoencouragedthepeopleofMasakitomovetotheareabycreatingatax-freecommercialdistrict.
ThecentralenclosureofIyoMatsuyamaCastleisacomplexarrangementoftowers,gatesandwalls.OnthewestarethemainandsmallTenshu.Tothenorthandsoutharecornerturrets.Thesefourtowersareconnectedbycorridorstoformaninnercourtyard,similartotheTenshu
arrangementatHimejiCastle.Aseriesoffourheavilydefendedgatesmustbepassedthroughtoreachtheinnerenclosure.TherampleadstotheIchinomon(firstgate).Thepost-and-beam
koraimongateontheleftistheShichikimonthatleadstotherearoftheHonmaru.
ThemainTenshuandShotenshu(smallTenshu).
MatsudairaSadayukibuiltanewthree-storyTenshuafterhecametoMatsuyamain1634.AnephewofTokugawaIeyasu,Sadayukiwasthefirstshinpan(innercircle)lordpostedtothissouthwesternregionofJapantomonitorthetozama(‘outside’daimyo).Sadayukireducedtheoriginalfive-storyTenshutothree,possiblytounderplayhiscloseconnectionswiththeshogun’sfamily,or
becausethefoundationsmayhavebeentooweaktosupporttheoriginallargerbuilding.Althoughthemaintowerwasreducedinsize,thecastle’sdefensesremainedimpressive.TheapproachtotheHonmaruisasteepclimbfollowedbyaseriesofturns.Specializedentrances,suchasthe‘doorlessgate’and‘hiddengate,’weredesignedtoconfuseinvadersandprovideampleopportunityfordefenderstoattack.ReachingthecentralenclosureinthenorthoftheHonmaru,intruderspassedthroughfurtherheavilyfortifiedgatestoreachthecourtyard,acomplexoftowers,connectingcorridors,gatesandthemainTenshu.Ancillarycourtyardswithlowwalls,numerousshootingholesandseveralmannedtowerscreatedyetmoreproblemsfortheattackers.
Arenjimado(pushoutwindow)intheTatsumiyagura(southwesttower).TogetherwiththeTaikoyagura(drumtower)andtheTaikomon(drumgate),thistowercreatedaformidabledefense
againstenemieswhopenetratedtheTsutsuimon.
TheheavilyfortifiedTsutuimonwiththeroofoftheTonashimon(doorlessgate)atbottomleft.VisitorscouldpassthroughtheTonashimon,thenturnsharplytofacetheTsutuimon.BesidetheTsutuimonisahiddengate,theKakuremon,fromwhichasurpriseattackcouldbelaunched.
Stone-droppingwindowsinthewestwallleadingtoInuimon(northwestgate)andInuiyagura(eastconnectingturretofInuimon).TheInuimonandtowerdefendedtherearentrancetotheHonmaru.The47.5ft(14.5m)-longtimberpaneledtileroofedwallisplasteredontheinsideandhas10
stone-droppingwindows.
Themajorityofthecastlebuildingsburntdownafterthecastlewasstruckbylightningin1784.Thecurrentcomplexwasrebuiltin1852.Severalbuildingsweredestroyedbyairraidsin1945andrebuiltinthe1970s.
Astone-droppingwindowintheTaikoyagura.OverlookingtheTonashimon(doorlessgate),drumsignalsweresentfromthistowertowarndefendersofanenemyapproachingtheinnerenclosure
ofthecastle.
LookingdownfromtheShotenshu(smallTenshu)attheheavilyfortifiedIchinomon(firstgate).Thesmallareathroughthisgatecouldonlyaccommodateafewsoldiers,thusslowingdownan
attackingarmywhowerethenfiredonfromthesurroundingtowers.ToentertheNinomon(secondgate),itwasnecessarytotakeasharpleft-handturn.
POINTSOFINTEREST
ThesophisticateddefensivesystemofMatsuyamaCastledemonstrateshowfarcastlebuildingtechniqueshadadvancedbytheearlyseventeenthcentury.ItisinterestingtocomparetheapproachtotheHonmaruofMatsuyamaCastle(viatheSannomaruandNinomaru)withtheapproachtoHimejiCastle.Anexampleofthecastle’suniquedefenseistheTonashimon(doorlessgate).Situatedalong
theapproachfromtheNinomarutotheHonmaru,itisthoughtthisgatewasleftwithoutadoortoallowtheenemytoenterandthenbecometrappedbythewellfortifiedTsutuimonaroundthecorner.BesidetheTsutuimonisahiddengate,Kakuremon,fromwhichasurpriseattackcouldbelaunched.
ThewalktotheHonmaruthroughtheNinomaruissteepandonecantakeacablecar.However,ifpossible,descendonfootviatheNinomarutotheSannomarutoappreciatethelayoutofthecastlegrounds.
Twonoboriishigaki(ascendingstonewalls)ofgranitelinktheNinomarutotheHonmaru.Thesesheerwallsarequiterare.FoldingorfanwallsenclosetheHonmaru.
ThemuseuminsidethecastleTenshuandsubsidiarytowershasaninformativedisplayofartifactsandinformationrelatingtothecastle.
Shootingholesandpushoutwindows(renjimado)frominsidethethree-storymainTenshu.Thetownbelowtheentirecastlegroundscanbeseenfromthisvantagepoint.
Theuchibei(innerwall)oftheShikirimon.Thiscourtyardwasbuiltfordefenseofthenorthwestarea.
DIRECTIONS
FromJRMatsuyamaStation,itis10minutesbystreetcartoDogoOnsen.GetoffatOkaido,thena5minutewalktakesyoutothecablecarentrance.ThistakesyouuptotheHonmaruandbackagain,althoughitis
entrance.ThistakesyouuptotheHonmaruandbackagain,althoughitispossibletowalkbackdownthroughtheNinomaru.
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MatsumotoCastle1590–1614
isingdramaticallyagainstabackdropoftheJapaneseAlps,MatsumotoCastleisoneofJapan’smoststriking.Havingavoideddestructioninthewarsofthelatesixteenthcentury,theMeijiRestorationinthenineteenthcenturyandtheairraidsofWorldWarII,MatsumotoCastleisoneoftheoldestoriginalcastlesinJapan.
ThesiteofMatsumotoCastlewasfirstusedin1504asasub-fortoftheOgasawaraclan.InitiallycalledFukashi,itwasrenamedMatsumotoin1582byOgasawaraSadayoshi.In1590,ToyotomiHideyoshiawardedIshikawaKazumasathedomainofShinano,whichincludedMatsumotoCastle.Ishikawaplannedtorebuildthecastlebutdiedbeforeworkbegan,leavingconstructiontohiseldestson,Yasunaga.
SixdifferentfamiliesoccupiedMatsumotoCastlebetween1590and1869:Ishikawa(1590–1613),Ogasawara(1613–17),Toda(1617–33)andagainfrom1726to1869,Matsudaira(1633–38),Hotta(1638–42)andMizuno(1642–1725).Thefamilycrestsoftheselordsadornrooftilesatvariouspointsonthecastle.
The96.5ft(29.4m)Daitenshu(maintower)appearstohavefivestoriesfromtheoutsidebuthassixstoriesinside.Thethree-storyInuinokotenshutothenorthwestisconnectedtothemaintowerbytheWatariyagura(corridortower)onthesecondlevel.Beingoneoftheearliercastlesand
affiliatedwithToyotomiHideyoshi,MatsumotoCastleisblack.
MatsumotoCastleisaflatlandfloatingcastle(ukishiro).TheUchibori(innermoat)surroundstheHonmaru(mainenclosure)wheretheTenshucomplexandHonmarugoten(palace)arelocated.ThelordofMatsumotolivedintheHonmarugotenandranhisgovernmentheadquartersfromhere.
Risingdirectlyfromthemoat,MatsumotoCastleisanukishiro(floatingcastle).TheroughpilingoftheTenshubaseislesssophisticatedthancastlesbuiltinthefollowing20years,whichsawgreat
advancesinstonewallconstructiontechniques.
Completelyopenontheeastandsouthsides,theTsukimiyagura(moon-viewingtower)wasbuiltforthepopularpastimeofmoonviewing.TheTsukimiyaguraandTatsuminotsukeyagura(east
keep)werebuiltaround1634byMatsudairaNaomasa(1601–66).Matsudairaoccupiedthecastleforfiveyears(1633–38)duringwhichtimearicegranaryandstablefor54horseswere
constructed.
Originallybuiltin1595,theTaikomon(drumgate)wastorndownatthebeginningoftheMeijiera(1868–1912)andrebuiltin1999.Ataikodrumannouncedthetime,thearrivalofvisitorsand
signaledemergenciesfromthisgate.Taikowerealsousedinbattletosendcommands,directivesandcommuniqués.
TheNinomaru(secondenclosure)formedaUshapearoundtheHonmaruandwasalsoenclosedbyamoat.TheNinomarupalace(Kosanjigoten),variousstorehousesandaricegranarywerelocatedhere.Thetwoinnerenclosureswere
storehousesandaricegranarywerelocatedhere.ThetwoinnerenclosureswereenclosedbytheSannomaru(thirdenclosure),whereabout90importantsamuraiwerehoused.The1.4mile(2.2km)-longSotobori(outermoat)surroundedtheentirecastle,accessedbyfourcrossingpointstotheSannomaru.
MatsumotoCastlehasacomplexTenshuarrangementcomsistingofafive-storyTenshuconnectedtoasmalltowertothenorthwestbytheWatariyagura(corridor-styletower)andamoon-viewingtowertothesouth.ThecomplexTenshuarrangementatMatsumotowasrareforcastlesofthe1590s,whichusuallyhadonlyasinglemaintower.
Accordingtolegend,acursewasplacedonthecastlebyapeasantcalledKasukein1686.Protestingataxincrease,Kasukeledafaileduprisingagainstthelordofthecastle.Hewascapturedandsentencedtodeath.Onthedayofhisexecution,Kasukeglaredinresentmentatthecastleandfromthatdayonitbegantolean.Bytheearlytwentiethcentury,theleanwassobadthataropewastiedaroundthemainpillaronthefourthfloorandpulledthroughthewindowtostraightenthestructure.Thismethodappearedtohaveworkedasthecastlenowstandstall,albeitwithropemarksingrainedonthepillar.
ThecastlewasalmostdemolishedintheMeijiperiod(1868–1912)whentheemperorwasrestoredtopower.Happily,itwassavedfromdestructionbylocalcitizenswhoraisedfundstobuyandrestoreitin1911.ThecastlewasdesignatedaHistoricSitein1930,theTenshuaNationalTreasurein1936.
Asenseofopulenceiscreatedwithminimalmaterialsandcolorthroughpattern,proportionandcraftsmanship.Thecarvedwoodenornamentattheapexoftheroofgableiscalledagengyo.Meaning‘topourwateron,’gengyowerealsousedintemplearchitectureasaprotectivecharm
againstfire.
TheTaikomonfrominsidetheHonmaru.
A-bellshapedwindow(katomado)intheDaitenshu.
POINTSOFINTEREST
RopemarksonthecentralpillarinsidethemainTenshu.TherareroundpillarsinsidetheTenshu.Differentfamilycrestsontherooftilesaroundthecastle.
Anishiotoshimado(stone-droppingwindow)intheInuikotenshu(northsmalltower).
TheDaitenshuisconnectedtotheTsukimiyagura(moon-viewingtower)bytheTatsumitsukeyagura.TheHonmaruissurroundedbytheUchibori(innermoat),andtheNinomaru
formsaUshapearoundthis.TheNakaborisurroundedtheNinomaruwhichwas,inturn,surroundedbytheSannomaruandSotobori(outermoat).
DIRECTIONS
A15minutewalkfromMatsumotoStation.
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MatsueCastle1607–1611
lawwaspassedin1607forbiddingyounggirlstodanceinthestreetsofMatsue,asmalltownonthewestcoastofJapan.LafcadioHearn,nineteenth-centurywriterandMatsueresident,explainedthatwheneveranymaidendanced,thecastlehill,Oshiroyama,wouldshudderandtheentirebuildingwouldquiver.Itdidsobecauseabeautifulyounggirlhadbeenburiedaliveunderthecastlewallsasasacrificetothegods.Allthatisknownofherwasthatshelovedtodance.
HorioYoshiharuestablishedMatsueCastlein1607.HoriohadbeenavassalofOdaNobunagaandToyotomiHideyoshi,butsidedwithTokugawaIeyasuattheBattleofSekigaharain1600.HewasrewardedwiththeprovincesofIzumoandOki.HorioinitiallygovernedfromTodaCastleinHiroseuntilthemountaincastlecouldnolongeraccommodatetheadministrativeneedsofthegrowingcastletown.HisnextcastleatMatsuewasclosertoseatransportationandlesssusceptibletoflooding.Completedin1611,itwasoccupiedbythreegenerationsoftheHoriofamily.MatsueCastlewassubsequentlypassedtoKyogokuTadataka,whoruledfrom1634to1638.LikeHorio,hehadnosuccessor,socontrolofthecastlewashandedtoMatsudairaNaomasa,TokugawaIeyasu’sgrandson.NaomasawastransferredfromMatsumotoCastleinShinanoprovince,andtengenerationsofhisfamilyruledIzumofromMatsueCastleforthenext230years.
FourbridgesovertheUchibori(innermoat)allowaccesstotheinnerenclosures.
At98ft(30m),theTenshuatMatsueCastleisthethirdtallestoriginaloneinJapanafterHimejiandMatsumoto.ThecastleisalsoknownasChidori-jo(PloverCastle)duetotheshapeoftheirimoyahafu(roofgables)thatresembletheoutstretchedwingsoftheploverbird.Thecastlehas95smallsecretoutletsforgunsinthewallsandanarrowoutletovertheattachedporticoentrance
tothrustspearsontointruders.
TheblackwoodenTenshuofMatsueCastleisoneofthe12originalTenshuremaininginJapan.Althoughwellfortified,thecastlewasneverattackedandwasfortunatetoescapelightningstrikes,theprimaryreasonmanycastlesweredestroyedduringtheEdoperiod.The98ft(30m)-highTenshuappearstohavefivestoriesfromtheoutsidebuthassixinternalfloors,abasementandanolderstyleborogatawatchtower.The24.6ft(7.5m)-highstonebaseisvertical,indicativeoftheolderstyleofgobozumiwallpiling.Longstonesareembeddeddeepintothewall,withthelargersurfaceofthestonesfacinginwardtoformasolidbase.ThistypeofpilingisalsousedatthebaseoftheTenshuatHikoneCastle.
Stone-droppingwindowsguardeachsideoftheportico-styleentrance,whichissealedwithasteeldoor.Smallstonescouldbetakenoutofthewallandthrownthroughthestone-droppingwindowswithoutcompromisingthewall’sstability.Spearscouldbethrustthroughanarrowoblongopeningabovethe
entranceatunwelcomevisitors.BlacktimberboardslinethewallsoftheTenshu.Madeofchestnutwooddonatedbylocalfarmers,thepoorqualitytimberwaspaintedwithpersimmonjuicetoprotectitfrominsects.Moreeconomicalthanwhiteplasteredwalls,Matsue’sblackwallsarealsomoresuitedtothelocalclimate,whichhashighhumidityinsummer,heavysnowfallsinwinterandtyphoonsinearlyautumn.Twoshachihoko(fish-likecreatures)madeofwoodandcoveredwithbronze‘protect’theroofridge.At7.4ft(2.25m)high,theyaresecondinsizeonlytoNagoyaCastle’sfamousgold-platedshachihoko.
Theinteriorofthecastleisquitedark,withminimalopeningstoadmitlight.Thetimberconstructionmakesthecastlesusceptibletofire.UniquetoMatsueCastle,thestairsaremadeofpaulowniatimber,whichdoesnotburneasily.Thismeantoccupantscouldescapeviathestairsin
thecaseoffire.
Themainentrancetothecastleisthroughthebasement,whichissealedwithanirondoor.A79ft(24m)-deepwellinthebasementsuppliedthecastlewithwaterintheeventofasiege.Rice,
saltanddriedgoodswerealsostoredhere.
ManyofthecastlebuildingsweredemolishedontheordersoftheImperialgovernmentduringtheMeijiRestoration.TheTenshuwassoldtoawreakingcompanyin1875foraminorsumbutrepurchasedbylocalresidentstosaveitfromdestruction.TheTenshuwasrenovatedbetween1950and1955.Anumberoftowershaverecentlybeenreconstructed.
POINTSOFINTEREST
ThefeudallordofMatsuemaintainedaround3,000samurairetainers—warriorsinwarandbureaucratsinpeacetime.Theirresidenceswerelocatedaroundthecastlegrounds.Manybukeyashiki(samuraihouses)canbevisitedinthesamuraiquartertoday.ThecastletownofMatsuewaslaidoutwithmerchantsonthenorthbankoftheOhashiRiverandartisansonthesouthbank.Templesinthesouthcouldbeturnedintoanarmedcampintheeventofwar.Asettlementforgunnerytroopsinthesouthformedthefirstlineofdefenceforthecityandcastle.
TheMinamiyagura(southturret).Thereweretentowerslocatedonthewallssurroundingthecastle.Soldierscouldrunalongcorridorsbetweentheturrets.Thistowerwasreconstructedin
2001alongwiththeNakayagura(innertower)andTaikoyagura(drumtower).
Timber-lineddobei(mudwalls)withshootingholesrunalongthestonewallsrisingfromthemoat.
Theinsideofthedobeiareplasteredandtheshootingholestimber-lined.Thetileroofprovidesprotectionfromweatherandgunfire.
MinamiyaguraandNakayagura.TheTaikoyaguraisinthedistance.TheUchibori(innermoat)surroundstheinnerenclosures,theHonmaruandNinomaru.Theinnerandoutermoatsarefed
bynearbyLakeShinji.
ThestairsatMatsueCastlearemadeofpaulowniawood.Paulowniaisverylightanddifficulttoburn.Inwaritwaspossibletoliftthestairstoimpedeanadvancingenemyandinfireitwas
possibletoexitviathem.Eachstepis4in(10cm)thickand5ft(1.6m)wide.
Renjimado(pushoutwindows).
ThebaseoftheTenshuisinthegobozumistylewherelongstonesareembeddeddeepintothewall.Althoughthestonesappeartobestackedrandomly,theirlengthandcarefulplacement
ensureaverystablewall.
DIRECTIONS
FromJRMatsueStationthebustoMatsuejoOtemaetakes10minutes.Alternatively,itisa20minutewalktothecastle.
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KochiCastle1601–1603
ustpriortotheBattleofSekigaharain1600,Chiyo,thewifeofYamauchiKatsutoyo(1545–1605),sentherhusbandaletterconcealedinthechinstrapofamessenger’shat.YamauchiwasavassalwhohadservedunderOdaNobunagaandToyotomiHideyoshi.TheletterrelayedvitalinformationaboutToyotomiloyalistforcesandsuggestedherhusbandswitchallegiances.Fortuitously,KatsutoyotookheradviceandfoughtonthewinningTokugawaside.Inrecognitionofhisservice,KatsutoyowasmadefirstlordoftheprovinceofTosain1600.HebeganconstructingKochiCastlethefollowingyear.LocatedonOtakasakahill,themainbuildingswerebuiltwithintwoyearsandthewholecastlecomplexwascompletedby1611.SixteenconsecutivegenerationsoftheYamauchifamilyruledTosaoverthefollowing270years.Today,inrecognitionofherwisdom,abronzestatueofChiyowatchesovertheapproachtothemaincitadel.
BeforeYamauchiKatsutoyoarrivedin1600,TosawasruledbythewarlordChosokabeMotochika.Chosokabehadarrivedin1588andbuiltacastleonOtakasaka(Otakahill),replacingtheoriginalwatchtowerandmudrampartserectedonthesiteinthefourteenthcenturybytheruralwarrior,OtakaMatsumaru.ChosokabeabandonedthissitesoonafterduetofloodingandmovedtoUrado.AsretributionforsupportingtheToyotomisideattheBattleofSekigahara,Chosokabewasstrippedofhiscastle,landsandrevenueof222,000koku.WhenYamauchiKatsutoyocametoTosaheundertookworkstopreventthefloodingandbuiltKochiCastleonOtakasakain1601.Destroyedbyfirein1727,mostofthecastlewasrebuiltin1753.FollowingtheMeijiRestoration,thecastleandgroundswereredevelopedintoaprefecturalpark,savingthebuildingsfromdemolition.FifteenoftheremainingbuildingshavebeendesignatedImportantNationalCulturalAssets.ThewholeareaisdesignatedaHistoricSite.
Lying145ft(44.4m)abovesealevel,the60.7ft(18.5m)-highTenshuappearstohavefourstoriesbutactuallyhassixlevelsinside.Intheborogatastyle,ithasawatchtowerontopwithanexteriorwalkway.Ironspikes,knownas‘ninjarepellants,’runaroundthecastleabovethetopof
thestonebase.Auniquefeaturearewarriorwindows(mushamado).Thesehorizontalslatwindowsinthelowplasteredwalls(dobei)surroundingtheHonmaruprovidedlookoutsfor
samurai.
Thetwo-storyOtemon(maingate)ofKochiCastlewasoriginallybuiltaround1610andrebuiltin1664.Itisabox-stylegate(masugatamon).Themainpillarsaremadeofzelkovaandreinforcedwithcopperplates.Thegateisorientedsothatitisnotpossibletoseeintothecastlegrounds.
TheOtemonsurvivedthefireof1727,makingitoneoftheoldeststructuresatthecastle.
TheHigashitamon,TsumemonandRokamon.TheHigashitamon(eastcorridor)leadsfromtheTenshutotheTsumemon(guardroomor‘trickgate’),so-calledbecauseitdidnotleadtothenextenclosureatgroundlevelasitappearsto,confusingintruderswhowouldbeattackedbyguardswhentheyreachedthisdeadend.Toaccessthenextenclosure,theNinomaru,itwasnecessarytoturnrightandascendthestairs.TheTsumemonwouldthentakeonetotheHonmaru(innerenclosure)wherethelord’sreceptionsuite(Seiren)andTenshuwerelocated.Thelord’spalace(Goten)waslocatedintheNinomaru,butwasdestroyedbyfirein1727,alongwithmanyofthe
othercastlebuildings.
POINTSOFINTEREST
ThearrangementofbuildingswithintheHonmaruisuniquetoKochiCastle.HonmarugotenorSeiren,thelord’sreceptionrooms,areadjacenttothemaincitadelorTenshu.Thesebuildingswereusuallylocatedinlesserenclosures,suchastheNinomaru.AlthoughtheTenshuisaseparatebuildingthatcanbeisolatedintheeventoffirebyclosingthethick,plastereddoors,itispossibletostepdirectlyfromtheHonmaruseirenintotheTenshu.TheHigashitamonisalsolocatedbesidetheTenshu,allowingmovementthroughaseriesofcorridortowersenclosingtheHonmaruwithoutsteppingoutside.
Thebox-shapedareainfrontoftheOtemonissurroundedbystonewallstoppedwithlowtimberwalls.Samuraicouldfireuponintrudersfromtheprotectionofthesewalls.
Nailcoverings(kugikakushi)attheOtemonareoftencalledbreastironware(chichikanamono)becauseoftheirresemblancetothefemalebreast.
Acopper-platedshachihokoontheroofridgeoftheTenshu.
AlthoughthelayoutofthecompoundsofKochiCastleappearsstraightforward,withthemainenclosureatthehighestpointandthesecondandthirdenclosuresdescendingdownthehill,theapproachtothecastleisdeceptive.AfterpassingthroughtheTetsumon(irongate),andturningtothelefttogouptheflightofstonesteps,thepathtotheNinomaruwashiddenbehindwallslinedwithshootingholes.InvadershadnochoicebuttoproceedstraightaheadtowardtheTsumemon(guardroomor‘trickgate’).BuiltoverawaterlessmoatconnectingtheHonmaruandNinomaru,theentrancewascalledatrickgatebecauseanenemywhosucceededinbreakingthroughwouldendupinasquareoutsidethemaincitadel.EntrywasonlypossiblefromtheNinomaru,whichrequiredarightturnbeforereachingtheTsumemon.
Metalspikeslinethetopofthestonewallsforextradefense.Slattedwindows(mushamado)intheplasteredmudwalls(dobei)gavesoldiersintheHonmaruanexcellentviewoverthecastlegrounds.StoneguttersprotrudefromthewallstochannelKochi’shighrainfallawayfromthefoundationstopreventthewallsweakening.Lettersengravedonthestonesliningthewalls,totheleftoftheOtemon(maingate),representindividualsinvolvedintheconstructionofthecastle.
KochiCastleisparticularlyattractivebecauseofitscontrastingblackwallsandwhitetrim,blackgatesandwhiteplasteredwalls,decorativemonsterendtiles(onigawara),copper‘dolphin’tiles(shachihoko)androofingarrangementsofdormergables(chidorihafu)andundulatinggables(karahafu).
UniquetoKochiCastleisthelord’sreceptionsuite,theSeiren,attachedtotheTenshu(behind).Itconsistsofaguardroom,anentrancehallandseveralotherchambers.Thefloorofthemainchamberisraisedforthelordtositonwhenreceivingguests.Onthewestsideisasmallroom
wherewarriorshidshouldtheybeneededtoprotectthelord.
IronplatingwithcoppernailcoveringsonthedooroftheOtemon.
ThetimberlatticeofthewindowintheHigashitamonisplasteredforfireproofing.Theraindoor(amado)couldbeslidacrossforfurtherprotection.ThiscorridortowerleadsfromtheTenshuto
theTsumemon.
Thelord’sreceptionsuitewasbuiltintheshoinstylewithtatamimattingandshojiandfusuma(thickpaperscreens)dividingrooms.Ornatelycarvedtransomsabovethehorizontalbeamabove
thescreens(nageshi)allowairflowwhenthefusumaareshut.
DIRECTIONS
KochiCityissituatedinthesouthoftheislandofShikoku.Takingtwo
KochiCityissituatedinthesouthoftheislandofShikoku.TakingtwoandahalfhoursbytrainfromOkayama,thejourneythroughthemountainsandalongsidethegorgesofShikokuisspectacular.Thecastleisa10minutetaxirideor20minutewalkfromKochiStation.
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Bitchu-MatsuyamaCastle1575,1683
ituated1,411ft(430m)abovesealevel,Bitchu-MatsuyamaisJapan’shighestsurvivingcastle.FromitsvantagepointonheavilyforestedMtGagyu,thecastlecommandsthesurroundingarea.
Afortwasfirstconstructedintheareain1240byAkibaSaburoShigenobu.WhenMimuraMotochikabecamethefeudallordoftheregioninthelatesixteenthcentury,thatstrongholdwasenlargedtoencompassthecastle’scurrentsite.WiththehelpoftheMoriclan,MimuraconqueredtheentireBitchuarea,butwaslaterforcedfromthecastleafterbetrayingtheMori.In1600,KoboriMasatsuguandhissonMasakazucametotheareaonordersoftheTokugawashogunate.TheyweresucceededbyMizunoyaKatsutakain1681,whorebuilttheTenshu,towersandgatesandbuilttheOnegoya,anadministrativebuilding,onthesouthernsideofthemountain.In1744,ItakuraKatsuzumibecamelordofthecastleandwassubsequentlyfollowedbyeightItakuralordsthrough126years.
Bitchu-Matsuyamaisasmallcastlewithanoriginaltwo-storyTenshu,severalreconstructedtowersandoriginalplasteredmudwalls(dobei).ItsappealliesinitslocationonthepeakofMtGagyu,withstunningviewsoverthesurroundingmountains.Thecastlemakesinterestinguseofthetopography,withthestonewallsandtowerbasesappearingtogroworganicallyoutofthenaturalrock.
At1,410ft(430m)abovesealevelandsurroundedbymountains,theisolationofBitchu-Matsuyamarenderedlargecastlebuildingsunnecessary.Thetwo-storyblackandwhiteTenshu,althoughsmall,hasacommandingviewofthesurroundingarea.ThetowerssurroundingtheHonmaruareprotectedbyfan-shapedstone-droppingwindowsattheircorners,asseenontheGonohirayagura(fifthone-leveltower)intheforeground.Theundulatingroof(karahafu)ofthe
stone-droppingwindowoftheTenshuaddstothebeautyofthisremotecastle.
Shootingholesintheplasteredmudwalls(dobei)atopthestonewall.
Thenaturaltopographyhasbeenusedingeniouslytocreatealabyrinth-likeapproachtotheHonmaru,thehighestpointofthecastle.Thehillhasbeencarved,thenfacedwithstone,creating
wallsandsteps.Naturalstoneandrockfaceareincorporatedintothisdesign.
ThecurrentTenshudatesfromtherenovationbyMizunoyaKatsutakain1681.Quitecompact,itisdominatedbyalargestone-droppingwindow(ishiotoshimado)atitscenterwithanundulatingroofgable(karahafu).Slattedwindowssurroundthewalls,andagabledroof(irimoyahafu),itssidesextendingtotheedgesoftheroof,sitsatopthesecondlevel.Thewallsareacombinationofblacktimberpanelingandwhiteplaster.
Attherearofthecastle,pasttheMizunotemongateruins,aretheBanshoenclosureandterracedenclosurescalledtheAihatakekidoRuins.TheseleadtotheTenjinenclosures,theruinsofanoutlyingfortthatformedpartofthe
theTenjinenclosures,theruinsofanoutlyingfortthatformedpartofthecastle’snortherndefenses.Afurther656ft(200m)alongaretheearthworkruinsoftheoriginalOomatsuyamaCastledatingto1240.
TheordertoabolishcastlesearlyintheMeijiera(1868–1912)leftBitchu-MatsuyamaCastleinruins.Acitizen’sgroupwasformedin1929topreservethecastleandrepairthetower.FurtherrestorationandrepairshavecontinuedunderTakahashiCity.Bitchu-MatsuyamaCastlewasdesignatedanImportantCulturalPropertyin1950.Twotowers,fourgatesandsomemudwallswerereconstructedin1995.
NaturalterrainhasbeenusedtogreateffectatBitchu-Matsuyama,withtheTenshu,wallsandtowersrisingfromthesheerrockface.TheNijuyagura(two-storytower)appearstogrowoutof
therock.
TheGonohirayagura(fifthone-leveltower)andtheRokunohirayagura(sixthone-leveltower)flankthegatewaytotheHonmaru.
StepsleadingtotheGonohirayagura.
POINTSOFINTEREST
Bitchu-Matsuyamahasoneofthe12originalTenshuremaininginJapan.Itssmall,squatshapeandappearanceofgrowingoutoftherockyoutcropmakeitaninterestingadditiontothisgroupofsurvivingTenshu.
aninterestingadditiontothisgroupofsurvivingTenshu.Theeffortrequiredtoreachthiscastlerevealshowinaccessiblemountain
castleswere.Theisolation,interestingbuildingsandstunningview,however,arewellworththeeffort.
TheTenshuanddobeiwithroundandrectangularshootingholes.
TheHigashimon(eastgate)isthesidegateleadingtotheHonmaru.
DIRECTIONS
LocatedinTakahashi,Okayamaprefecture,thetrainfromOkayamatakesaboutonehour.FromTakahashiStationtakeataxihalfwayupthemountaintothecarparkandthenwalkuptothecastlesite.Itispossibletowalkbacktothetownfromthecastleinabout1.5hours.
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InuyamaCastle1535,1601–1620
nahilloverlookingtheKisoRiver,InuyamaCastlecommandedtheborderbetweenOwariandMinoprovinces.Establishedin1535byOdaNobuyasu,theuncleofOdaNobunaga,itsstrategicpositionincentralHonshusawitplayanimportantroleintheeventsleadinguptotheunificationofJapanduringtheWarringStatesperiod(1477–1575).
PriortotheKomakicampaignin1584,IkedaTerumasatookthecastleforhislord,ToyotomiHideyoshi,givingToyotomiastrategicadvantageoverhisrival,TokugawaIeyasu.Tokugawasubsequentlyretreated,leavingToyotomitoruleJapanuntilhisdeathin1598.IkedaTerumasalaterformedanalliancewithTokugawaIeyasubymarryinghisseconddaughter.HefoughtontheTokugawasideattheBattleofSekigaharain1600,forwhichhewasrewardedwiththeprovinceofHarimaandHimejiCastle.
InuyamaCastle’s62ft(19m)-highTenshuisoneofthemosthandsomeofthe12survivingTenshuinJapan.Itswatchtoweraffordsasuperbviewovertheriverandsurroundingcountryside.Fromtheexteriorthereappearstobethreelevels,butinsidetherearefour,plusanothertwowithinthestonebase.Thefirstfloorcontainsaguardroom,twostorageroomsandlivingquartersforthelord.Warriorswouldhideintherearoftheroomtoprotecttheirlordfromdanger.Thesecondfloorhasshelvesonthreewallstostoreweapons.Bell-shapedwindows(katomado)andamixofundulatinggables(karahafu,kirizumahafuandirimoyahafu)addtothebeautyoftheblackandwhiteTenshu.
ThestrategiclocationofInuyamaCastlebesidetheKisoRiverincentralHonshumadethisahotlycontestedsiteinthelatesixteenthcentury.Assuch,thecastlechangedhandsmorethanoncebetweenTokugawaandToyotomiloyalists.In1617,afterasuccessionoflords,theNaruse
clanmovedinandremainedatthecastleuntilitwastakenfromthembythenewMeijigovernmentin1871.Theythenretookpossessionin1895,makingInuyamatheonlyprivately
ownedcastleinJapanformanyyears.
Theolderborogata-styleTenshuhasawatchtoweraffordingstunningviewsofthesurroundinglandscape.Appearingasthreelevels,therearefourlevelsinsidetheTenshu,withanothertwoin
thestonebase.
Thetimbereavesarethicklyplasteredtoprotectagainstfire.Windowspushoutwardsandshootingholesremaincloseduntilneeded.
AconcretereconstructionoftheHonmarumon(gate)leadingtotheHonmaru(mainenclosure).TheTenshuandstonewallsaretheonlyoriginalbuildingsleftatInuyamaCastle.MostoftheotherbuildingsweretorndownwhentheMeijigovernmenttookpossessionin1871.Amajor
earthquakein1891wroughtfurtherdestruction.
TheKisoRiverasviewedfromtheTenshu.Windowscompriseaslidingshojiscreentoadmitlightandkeepoutdrafts,timberslatsandtimbershutterdoors.
ThereissomedisagreementastowhenandwhereInuyamaCastle’sTenshuwasbuilt.SomebelievethattheTenshuwasoriginallybuiltatKanayamaCastle,furtheruptheKisoRiver,in1537,dismantledin1599andshippedtoitspresentsite.ThiswouldmakeInuyamaCastletheoldestsurvivingTenshuinJapan.Theold-styleborogatawatchtowerontopoftheTenshusupportsthistheory.Restorationworkcarriedoutinthe1960s,however,suggeststhattheTenshuwasbuiltbetween1601and1620.
LookingattheHonmarufromtheTenshu.Thetwo-storybuildinginthemiddleisthereconstructedHonmarumongate.
LeavingthecastledownthesteephillbetweentheHonmarumonandtheKuromon.
TheuppermostroomonthefourthflooroftheTenshuiscalledtheKooran(highrailsroom).Witha360-degreeviewfromthesurroundingveranda,thisroomwasusedasalookout.Theblackkatomado(flowerwindow)isnotafunctioningwindow.Suchattentiontoaestheticsrevealsthe
castlewasmuchmorethanafortress.
An11.8ft(3.6m)-widecorridorsurroundsthecentralinnerroomsonthefirstandsecondfloorsoftheTenshu.Thesecorridorsarecalledmushabashiri(warriorsrunning)andwerewideenoughtoaccommodateanumberoffast-movingwarriorsinatimeofattack.Thecentralroomonthefirstfloorwasdividedintoaguardroom,twostorageroomsandtheJodannoma,whichhadaraised
floorandwasusedaslivingquartersforLordNarusewhenhewasstayingatthecastle.Weaponswerestoredintheinnerroomonthesecondfloor.
Asuccessionoflords,comprisingtheOda,Ikeda,Nakagawa,NagaoandOgasawara,residedatInuyamauntil1617.TheNaruseclanthentookpossessionandremainedatthecastleuntilitwastakenfromthemin1871.Atthistime,allthestructuresexcepttheTenshuweredestroyed.
ThecastlewasreturnedtotheNarusefamilyin1895ontheconditionthatthedamagewroughtbytheGreatNobiEarthquakeof1891wasrepaired.FormanyyearsitwastheonlyprivatelyownedcastleinJapan,untilrecently,whenitwassoldtothecityofInuyamaandtakenoverbyAichiprefecture.
POINTSOFINTEREST
Thestunninglocationofthecastle’shandsomeTenshuonthehilloverlookingtheKisoRiver.
TheoriginalTenshu.Theviewfromthewatchtower.
ThestonepilingusedatInuyamaisnozurazumi,themostbasicandoldeststyleofstonewallconstruction.Fieldstonesarepiledroughly,limitingtheheightandgradientofthewall.
DIRECTIONS
A15minutewalkfromInuyamaYuenStation.
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HiroshimaCastle1589–1599
iroshimaCastlewasestablishedbyMoriTerumotoin1589.OneofthewealthiestandmostpowerfuldaimyoinJapan,MoriruledhisnineprovincesthattodaycompriseHiroshima,Shimane,YamaguchiandpartsofTottoriandOkayamaprefecturesfromthere.
Mori’spowerlayinthewestofJapan.HissupportwascrucialtoOdaNobunagainhisquesttounifyJapaninthelatesixteenthcentury.ToyotomiHideyoshiwasresponsibleforgainingthesupportofthewesternprovincesforOda,ataskthattookfiveyearstoaccomplishfromhisbaseatHimejiCastle.HeeventuallygainedMoriTerumoto’sallegianceafterthewatersiegeofTakamatsuCastlein1582.MoribecameoneofToyotomi’strustedvassalsandwasappointedoneoffiveregentstogovernJapaninthenameofHideyoshi’sson,Hideyori,uponToyotomiHideyoshi’sdeath.MorisupportedtheToyotomiloyalistsduringtheBattleofSekigaharain1600,butdidnottakepartinthebattle.Aspunishmentfortakingthewrongside,hewasforcedtocedemostofhisterritoryandhisincomewascutfrom1,200,000kokuto360,000koku.HewassenttotheremotecoastaltownofHagiwhereheestablishedanewcastle.
HiroshimaCastlewasgiventoFukushimaMasanoriofKiyosu,anotherallyofToyotomiHideyoshi.Afterfloodsdamagedthecastlein1617,FukushimasoughtpermissionfromtheTokugawashogunatetorepairthecastle.Afterwaitingtwoyearswithoutareply,hewentahead.Aspunishmentforalteringthecastlewithoutpermission,hewasremovedtothelessprofitableprovinceofKawanakajimainNagano.HiroshimaCastleandtheeightBingocountieswerethenpassedtoAsanoNagaakira.TwelvegenerationsoftheAsanofamilythenheldthispositionfor250yearsuntiltheMeijiRestorationin1868.
Followingtheabolitionoffeudaldomainsandtheestablishmentofprefecturesin1871,thecastleservedasamilitaryfacility.ItwasdesignatedaNationalTreasurein1931butwasdestroyedbytheatomicbombin1945.TheTenshuwasreconstructedinconcretein1958andisnowamuseumhousingartifactsofHiroshimaandtheoriginalcastle.
Awatchtoweronthefifthlevelofthe85ft(26m)-highTenshugivesvantageoverthesurroundingarea.Asaflatlandcastle,heightwascrucial.Themaintower,plusthebase,is125ft(38m)tall.
EntrytotheNinomaru(secondenclosure)isviatheNinomaruomotemon.TheHirayagura(one-leveltower)isontherightofthegate.
Thestonepilingofthe39ft(12m)-highTenshubaseisquiterough,indicatingthatHiroshimaCastlewasbuilttowardthebeginningofthemajorcastlebuildingperiodof1576–1615.
TheNinomaruomotemon(frontgatetothesecondenclosure)wasreconstructedin1991usingtraditionalmaterialsandconstructionmethods.
TheTamonyagura(longtower)andthetwo-levelTaikoyagura(drumtower)linethestonewallsurroundingtheHonmaru(innerenclosure).Adrumwaskeptheretosoundthehourandsend
surroundingtheHonmaru(innerenclosure).Adrumwaskeptheretosoundthehourandsendsignals.TheUchibori(innermoat)surroundstheHonmaru.
InsidetheNinomaruomotemon.
TheTenshuwasreconstructedinconcretein1958aftertheoriginalwasdestroyedbytheatomicbombonAugust6,1945.
POINTSOFINTEREST
AnObikuruwasurroundstheHonmaruatHiroshimaCastle.Thisisanarrowenclosurethatencirclesalargerenclosure.Itisnamedafteranobi,thewaistbandwornaroundakimono.
Thefoundationsoftheeastandsouth-connectedkeepsseenbesidethereconstructedindependentTenshugiveanideaoftheoriginalTenshu’sform.
Hiroshimaisablackcastle.Manycastlesbuiltbefore1600werefinishedin
ablacklacquermadefrompineresin,blackink(sumi)andJapaneselacquer.Thisprotectsthetimberfromtheelementsandinsectinfestation.
Originallycoveringanextensivearea,HiroshimaCastlewassurroundedbythreemoatsandtheOtagawaRivertothewest.AftertheMeijiRestorationin1868,theouterandmiddlemoatswerefilledinandnowmostoftheoriginalcastlegroundsareoccupiedbycitybuildings.TheremainingUchibori(innermoat),HonmaruandNinomaruweredesignatedaNationalHistoricSitein1953.
DIRECTIONS
HiroshimaCityisonthemainShinkansenLine.Thecastleis10minutesbybusortramfromJRHiroshimaStation.GetoffatKamiyacho,thenitisa15minutewalktothecastle.
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MarugameCastle1587
erchedontopofKameyamahillontheislandofShikoku,MarugameCastleoverlookstheBingonadaSeatothemainislandofHonshu.FirstusedbytheNaraclanduringtheMuromachiperiod(1338–1573),thesitenowhousestheremainsofthecastleestablishedin1587bywarlordIkomaChikamasa.AfterbuildinganothercastleatnearbyTakamatsu,ChikamasahandedMarugameCastletohisson,IkomaKazumasa,whoturneditintoaformidablestronghold.Kazumasawasunabletoremainatthecastle,however,duetotheTokugawashogunate’sIkkokuichijoreilawof1615,whichrestricteddaimyotoonecastleperprovince.MarugameCastlewasdismantledin1615.
Thecastlewasgivennewlifein1641whenasmallpartofwesternSanukiwasgiventoYamazakiIeharuforbraveryduringthe1638ShimabaraRebellion.Yamazaki’snewfiefincludedthesiteofMarugameCastle,whichherebuiltbetween1641and1644.Itisbelievedthatmostofthestonewallsdatefromthistime.Fourteenyearslater,thecastlewaspassedtotheKyogokuclan,whofurtherimproveditbyaddingtheOtemoncomplex.TheKyogokuclanremainedatMarugameCastleuntiltheMeijiRestoration.Firerazedmanyofthebuildingsin1869beforetheImperialgovernmentdestroyedmuchofwhatremainedthefollowingyear.
MarugameCastleutilizesthenaturalrockyterrainofKameyamaasitsfoundation.TheHonmaruandTenshuarepositionedonthehighestpointofthehill,whichiscarvedtocreatesuccessivedescendingenclosures.Enclosuresatthebaseofthemountainhousethepalace,gardens,ridinggroundsandmaingate.Chiefretainers’mansionswerelocatedatthefrontandrearentrancestothecastleandsamuraihousesintheinnerareaoftheoutermoat(filledinduringtheMeijiera).Today,thethree-levelTenshuisoneofonly12originalTenshuremaininginJapan.TheOtemon,originallybuiltin1670,andtheTenshuwererestoredin1950.
TheOteninomonisapost-and-beam(koraimon)gate.Uponpassingthrough,youenteracourtyardandturnrighttogothroughtheOteichinomon,atwo-storyyaguramon.
TheKyogokuclancontrolledthecastleforover200years(1658–1868).Theirfamilycrestcanbefoundonendtilesthroughoutthecastlegrounds.
Marugameisathree-levelsotogata-styleTenshu.Smallbutbeautifullyproportioned,itsvantagepoint217ft(66m)abovesealevelnegatedtheneedformultiplelevels.
TheOteichinomonwasconstructedbytheKyogokufamily,whocametothecastlearound1658.
POINTSOFINTEREST
TheareaaroundtheGenkansakigomon(gatetothepalaceenclosure),andtheBanshonagaya(guardhouse).
Impressivestonewallsreinforcingthesteephill.
Layeredenclosurescarvedoutofthehillcreateahashigokaku-stylelayout,withtheHonmarubeingatthehighestpoint,followedbytheNinomaru,thentheSannomaru.TheTenshuof
Marugameisoneofonly12originalTenshulefttodayinJapan.
DIRECTIONS
10minuteswalkfromMarugameStation(YosanLine).
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NagoyaCastle1610–1628
agoyaliesontheTokaidoHighway217miles(350km)westoftheTokugawashogunate’shomeprovincesaroundEdoand112miles(180km)eastofToyotomiHideyori’sheadquartersatOsaka.In1610,TokugawaIeyasuorderedtheconstructionofNagoyaCastletosecurethisstrategicpositionandwardoffattacksfromOsaka.FollowingthedefeatofthewesternforcesloyaltoToyotomiHideyoshiattheBattleofSekigahara,daimyoonthelosingsidehadtheirlandsconfiscatedorreduced,resultinginthousandsofsamuraibecomingronin—wanderingwarriorswithoutalordorstipend.Thedisplaceddaimyoandroninmostlylivedinthewest,readytosupportToyotomiHideyoriifcalledupon.Thus,whileHideyoriwasaliveandensconcedatOsakaCastle,aconstantthreattotheTokugawaleadershipremainedinthewest.
Amaleandfemalekinshachi,(goldenshachihoko)adorntheroofridgeoftheDaitenshu.Standing8.5ft(2.6m)highandweighingover2,646lb(1,200kg),thesedolphin/tigerornaments
arecoveredin18caratgold.
ThecurveinthewalloftheDaitenshubasehelpsdistributethemassiveweightoftheTenshuoveralargerarea.Steeplyinclinedwallsweremorepronetocollapsethanfan-shapedones
(ogikobai).
NagoyaCastlewasbuiltforTokugawaIeyasu’sninthson,Yoshinao,whoestablishedtheOwaribranchoftheTokugawafamily.TheOwariweretheforemostoftheTokugawafamily’sthreelineages(sanke)andlivedhereuntiltheMeijiRestoration.DesignedbyNakaiMasakiyo,whowasinvolvedintheconstructionofNijo(1603),Fushimi(1602),Edo(1593–1636)andSumpu(1607)castles,NagoyawasthelastcastletobebuiltontheordersofTokugawaIeyasu(1542–1616).Nakaicombinedthelatestcastlebuildingtechniqueswiththevastresourcesof20daimyotocreateamassivesymbolofTokugawapower.Incredibly,thecastlewascompletedintwoyears.
Situatedonaflatlandsite,thecastlelackedheightandtopographyforitsdefense.Significantfortificationswerethusbuilttothwartenemyattacks.TheskilledcastleengineerKatoKiyamasawasresponsibleforthestonewallconstruction.ThewallssupportingtheTenshuarecalledfanwalls(ogikobai)becausetheupperpartofthewallcurvesoutwardlikeafan.Thisspecializedtechniquewasusedtopreventthewallswellingandcollapsing.ItisalsocalledKiyomasa-styleCrescentStonewallafterKatoKiyomasa,whousedthesesweepingwallsathisowncastleatKumamoto.ThecornerstonesoftheTenshu
basebeartheinscriptionsofthedaimyoinchargeofconstruction.ThoseofKatoandhisretainerscanbeseenonthenortheastcorner.
Theseven-storyconcreteDaitenshuofNagoyaCastledominatesthesurroundingarea.TheoriginalTenshuof1612wasdestroyedbyaUSbombinMay1945.Planstorebuildthe
DaitenshuanditsconnectedKotenshu(smallTenshu)intimberarecurrentlyunderway,withanestimatedcompletiondateof2026andacostof50billionyen.
OriginallycalledtheNishinomaruenokidamon,thistwo-storytowergateisa1959reconstructionofthemaingatewhichburntdownin1945.
TheNinomaruhigashininomon(Ninomarueastsecondgate).OriginallyconstructedastheeastgateoftheNinomarugoten,itwasrelocatedtothissitein1972.
AcombinationofdryandwetmoatssurroundenclosuresatNagoyaCastle.TheUchibori,adrymoat,surroundstheHonmaru(innerenclosure)andawetmoat,Sotobori(outermoat),surroundsthecastlecomplex.Therearefourmainenclosures:theHonmaruatthecenter,theNishinomaru(westernenclosure),theNinomaru(secondenclosure)totheeastandtheOfukemarutothenorth.TheTenshuandHonmarugotenarelocatedintheHonmaru.AsecondpalacewasconstructedintheNinomaruin1617forthelordtoliveinandadministerlocalgovernment.ThepalacehadtwoNohdramastages.Performanceswereheldtocommemorateafeudallord’ssuccessiontoafiefdomandtocelebratethebirthofanheir.IntheearlyyearsoftheMeijiera,theNinomarueastgardenwasleveledandthepondfilledintomakewayforanarmybarracks.Thecastlewasfinallyreopenedtothepublicin1978.
Themassiveseven-story,plaster-coveredtimberTenshuwasconnectedviaacorridortoasmallerTenshu.Atthetimeofconstruction,itwasthelargestTenshuinJapan,withthebiggestfloorarea.NagoyaCastlereliedonitssizeratherthanbeautytoimpress.Itsonlyconcessiontodecorationarethetwohugegildedshachihokoontheroofridges.Cleverdevicessuchashiddenshootingholesandstone-throwingwindowsformedpartoftheTenshu’sdefensesinthecaseofasiege.Secretstoreroomshidrice,moneyandwells.TheTenshuandHonmarugotenweredestroyedinairraidsin1945andlaterrebuiltinconcretein1959.TheHonmarupalaceisbeingreconstructedusingtraditionalmaterialsandmethods,andisdueforcompletionin2018.
POINTSOFINTEREST
Thekinshachi,thegoldendolphintilesontheroofridgeofthemainTenshu.Thedolphinsareplatedin18caratgold0.04in(0.15mm)thick.Eachisunique.Themaleis8.6ft(2.62m)high,weighs2,805lb(1,272kg)andhas112scales.Thefemaleis8.5ft(2.58m)high,weighs2,680lb(1,215kg)andhas126scales.
Familyinscriptions(kuromon)inthestonewalls.Theserepresentthedaimyoresponsibleforaparticularsectionofastonewall.
ThelargeKiyomasastoneintheHonmaruwasdonatedbyKatoKiyomasa,thelordofKumamoto.Knownforhisskillinbuildingcastlewalls,KatowasresponsibleformuchofthewallbuildingatNagoyaCastle.Itissaidhestoodonalargerocktodirecttheselectionandplacementofindividualstones.
TheHonmarugotenpalace,whichisbeingreconstructedusingoriginaldrawings,paintingsandrecords.
ThenarrowwalkwayandsmallirondooroftheDaitenshuweredesignedtoimpedeaninvadingarmy.
Theoriginalseventeenth-centuryTatsumiyaguraoverlooksthedryUchibori(innermoat)andprotectsthesoutheastcorneroftheHonmaru.OneofthreecornertowerstosurvivethebombingduringWorldWarII,theothersaretheHitsujisaruyagura(southwesttower)andtheInuiyagura
(northwesttower).
Adrymoatwithwallsinnozurazumi(roughfieldstonestyle)surroundstheHonmaru(innerenclosure).VariouskindsofstonewallconstructioncanbeseenatNagoyaCastle,themost
sophisticatedbeingtheTenshubaseandatimportantgateways.
TheOmoteshoin(mainhall)ofthereconstructedHonmarugotenwasusedforofficialaudiences.Theraisedfloorareathroughtheslidingfusumawasreservedfordaimyoandotherimportantguests.TheHonmarugotenwasoriginallybuiltin1615.Asecondpalacewasconstructedinthe
Ninomaruin1617wherethelordlivedandadministeredlocalgovernment.
DIRECTIONS
Subway
MeijoLine,getoffatShyakusho(CityHall).TsuramaiLine,getoffatSengencho.
Bus
SakaeNo.13,getoffatNagoyajoSeimonMae.KeyRouteBusNo.2,getoffatShyakusho.TakeaNagoyaSightseeingRouteBuscalledMe-guru.
Train
MeitetsuSetoLine,getoffatHigashiOte.
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EdoCastle1593–1636
doCastlewastheheadquartersoftheTokugawashogunatefrom1603to1868.DuringtheTokugawareign,theoncebackwaterfishingvillageofEdogrewtobecomeoneofthemostpopulousandthrivingcitiesintheworld,knowntodayasTokyo.OtaDokan(1432–86),thechiefretaineroftheUesugiclan,builtacastleonthissitein1467.ItwasseizedbyHojoUjitsunaofOdawarain1524andheldbytheHojountiltheyweredefeatedbyToyotomiHideyoshiin1590.HideyoshithenofferedTokugawaIeyasutheHojo’seightKantoprovincesinexchangefortheTokugawaancestrallandsofMikawaandTotomi.ThischangeinterritoryshiftedTokugawaIeyasu,thesecondmostpowerfulwarlord,149miles(240km)eastofToyotomi’spowerbaseintheKinaidistrict.WithTokugawaremoved,ToyotomiwasabletoconsolidatetheleadershipofJapan.BeingconsignedtoabackwaterenabledTokugawatodevelophisnewterritorywithoutbeingobligedtoparticipateinanyofHideyoshi’scostlyKoreancampaigns.HeusedthisstrengthtohisadvantageattheBattleofSekigaharain1600,andinhisfinalbattlestodefeattheToyotomihouseatOsakain1615and1616.
LocatedinthecenterofJapanontheeastcoastofthemainislandofHonshu,Edoliesatthejunctionofthethreemainhighwaysofthetime:theTokaido,NakasendoandKoshiKaido.Itsprimepositionbesidetheseafacilitatedtradeandtransport,whilethevastKantoplainarounditensuredagoodsupplyoffood.
TokugawaIeyasucommencedbuildinghiscastleherein1593.Appointedshogunbytheemperorin1603,heemployedaccomplishedcastlearchitectTodoTakatoratodesignacastlefitfortherulerofthecountry.Drawinguponincumbentdaimyo,hebuiltahugecastleencircledbya10mile(16km)-longoutermoat.A3mile(5km)innermoatfedbytheSumidaRiverprotectedtheinnerenclosureofthecastle.Thegroundsweredividedintosixenclosures:Kitanomaru(northenclosure);Honmaru,whichhousedtheTenshuandofficesoftheshogunate;NinomaruandSannomaru,whichheldresidencesofretainers;
Nishinomaru,thelivingquartersofthepastshogunandtheheir;andFukiage,whichheldgardens.Therewere38gatesandnumeroustowersandbridges.Ieyasu’sgrandsonIemitsucompletedthecastlein1636,thesameyearEdowasofficiallymadetheadministrativecapitalofJapan.KyotoremainedtheImperialcapital.
TheFujimiyagurawasusedasasubstituteTenshuafterthemainTenshuwasdestroyedbyfirein1657.TheshogunwatchedfireworksatRyogokuandoverTokyoBayfromthistower,anditwasalsopossibletoseeMtFujifromhere,henceitsname.Situatedinthesoutheasterncornerofthe
Honmaru,itistheonlythree-storytowerremainingof11intheinnercitadel.
TheTenshudai(Tenshubase)islocatedinthenorthcorneroftheHonmaru.Itis135ft(41m)wide,148ft(45m)longand36ft(11m)high.A131ft(40m)-highfive-storyTenshustoodonthis
base,makingEdoCastle’sTenshuthetallestinJapanat167ft(51m).Builtin1607,themagnificenttoweradornedingoldornamentsburntdownjust50yearsaftercompletion.Witha
secureholdonpower,therewasnoimmediateneedtorebuildandalternativetowersinthecastlegroundswereusedaslookoutsduringtheEdoera(1603–1868).
TheSakuradamonislocatedonthesouthernperimeterofthecastlegrounds.Amasugatamon(box-stylegate),itismadeupofasimplepost-and-beamgate,astonewalledcourtyardanda
heavilyfortifiedtwo-storytowergate.
TheTatsuminijuyagura(southeasttwo-storytower)ontheKikyobori(moat)guardedthedistantKikyomon,whichledtotheNinomaru.
DaimyowereallocatedlandwithintheoutermoatofEdoCastletobuildelaboratemansionsinwhichtoresidewhileondutyattheshogun’scourteveryalternateyearunderthesankinkotaisystem.FamilymemberswereleftinEdoashostagestoensureadaimyo’sloyalty.Themansionscontainedbarracksforthedaimyo’sretainers,homesforclanofficials,anaudiencehallandlivingquartersofthedaimyo’sfamily,fireproofstore-housesandbeautifulgardens.Lesservassalsoftheshogunwereassignedareasoutsidethecastlegrounds.
MerchantsandcraftsmenwereenticedtoEdobyamplebusinessopportunitiesandmoderatetaxes.Landtothesouthandeastofthecastlewasexclusivelyreservedforthem.In1610,Edowasathrivingtownof150,000people,andby1700itwasthelargestcityintheworld,withoveramillioninhabitants.
FushimiyagurawasrelocatedfromFushimiCastleafteritwasdismantledintheearlyseventeenthcentury.TheWestern-stylestoneandironbridgeintheforegroundreplacedthetimberEdo-era
bridge,Nishinomarushimojobashi,intheMeijiera(1868–1912).ThisbridgeleadstotheNishinomaruwheretheshogun’slivingquarterswerelocatedandwheretheImperialpalace
stands.
Thebaseofthetwo-storysecondgateoftheSakuradamonhasperfectlycutstones(kirikomihagi)ofvariouscolors,whichfittightlytogetherwithoutmortar.Themostsophisticatedandexpensivetypeofstonewallpiling,itisseenmorefrequentlyatEdoCastlethanatanyothercastle,aresult
oftheTokugawamakinguseoftheresourcesofoutsidedaimyo.
In1867,TokugawaYoshinobu,thefifteenthheadoftheTokugawashogunate,handedpowerbacktotheImperialcourtatNijoCastleinKyoto.EdoCastlewasoccupiedbyImperialforces.In1868,EmperorMeijimovedtheImperialcourtfromKyototoEdoCastleandnamedthenewcapitalTokyo(easterncapital).
POINTSOFINTEREST
Bothstone-facedwallsandearthembankmentscanbeseenatEdoCastle.Thesouthernandwesternsidesarefortifiedbyhighearthembankmentsplantedwithpinetreestopreventerosion.Thenorthernandeasternembankmentsofthepalacegroundsarefacedwithstone.AhugenumberofstoneswereshippedfromtheKansaiandIzuregions.StoneswereunloadedonthebeachwhereTokyoStationnowstandsandtransportedtothesitebyoxorhorse.
Thestonebasesofmostofthegatesandtowersareconstructedwithprecisioncutandinsertedstonewithoutgapsortheneedformortar(kirikomihagi).ExtensiveuseofthisexpensivetypeofstonepilingwasaproclamationofTokugawawealth.
TheTenshuofEdoCastlewasbuiltontheordersofthesecondshogun,Hidetada,in1607.Itunderwentmassiverepairsin1622beforecompletionin1638ontheordersofthethirdshogun,Iemitsu.Thefive-story,167ft(51m)-
highstructure,builtofhinoki(cypress),dominatedthecity.Unfortunately,only19yearslater,in1657,themagnificenttowerburneddownintheGreatFireofMeireki,whichrazedmostofEdo.Itwasneverrebuilt.TheTenshudai(baseofthemaintower)islocatedinthenorthcorneroftheHonmaru.Rising36ft(11m),itis134ft(41m)wideand147ft(45m)long.Thebasecompriseslight-coloredstonesfromShodoIslandintheSetoInlandSeaanddarkstonesfromIzu.
TheextensivemoatsystematEdoCastlecoversatotalareaof4,304,000sqft(400,000sqm).Madein13sections,themoatswereonaverage4ft(1.25m)wide.
EdoCastleduringthecherryblossomseason.
DIRECTIONS
TheOtemonentrancetotheKokyoHigashiGyoen(eastgardens)isashortwalkfromOtemachiStationontheChiyoda,Tozai,Marunouchi,HanzomonandMitaSubwayLines.Itcanalsobereachedina10–15minutewalkfromTokyoStation.TheeastgardensareontheformersiteoftheHonmaruandNinomaru.
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MaruokaCastle1576
roblemsstabilizingthestonewallsofMaruokaCastlearoseduringitsconstructionin1576.Itwasdecidedthatahumanpost(hitobashira)wasneededasasacrificetoappeasethegods.AblindpeasantwomancalledOshizuagreedtobeahitobashirainexchangeforhersonbeingtakeninbythelordandmadeasamurai.Oshizustoodstillasthestoneswerelaidaroundher,slowlycrushinghertodeath.Thelord,however,neverfulfilledhispromiseandwhenthemoatfloodsitissaidtobethetearsofOshizu.
ShibataKatsutoyowasthefirstlordofMaruokaCastle.HewasunabletofulfillhispromisetoOshizubecausehewastransferredtoNagahamaaround1582.KatsutoyowasthenephewofoneofOdaNobunaga’stopvassals,ShibataKatsuie.AfterOdawaskilledin1582,ShibataKatsuieandToyotomiHideyoshiviedfortherighttotakeOdaNobunaga’splace.ToyotomiconvincedKatsutoyotosidewithhimagainsthisuncle,andmovedhimtoHideyoshi’soldcastleatNagahama.
MaruokaCastleisoneofthelastLateWarringStates(1560s–1570s)styleofcastlebeforethemoderncastlewasdevelopedduringthefreneticcastlebuildingperiodof1576–1615.The
independenttimberTenshuhastwolevelsandawatchtower.Locatedonalowhill,ahighstonebasewasemployedforextraheight.Beinganearliercastle,techniquesofstonewallpilingwerestillintheirinfancyandroughfieldstonepiling(nozurazumi)wasused.Unfortunately,thistypeof
stonewallconstructionisnotsuitableforasteeplyinclinedwall,whichwouldaccountfortheinstabilityofMaruoka’sTenshubase.
OntherightsideoftheTenshuisatimberslattedstone-droppingwindow(ishiotoshimado).Thesestone-droppingwindowsareuniquetoMaruokaCastle.Timberslatsenableddefenderstoshootatanenemy,whilethefloorcouldbeliftedforrocks,hotsandandwatertobethrowndownon
anyonescalingthewalls.
AccesstotheTenshuisviaasteeprampwithstonesteps.
MaruokaCastlesubsequentlyhad17lordsruleuntiltheMeijiRestoration.ItwasnicknamedKasumigajo(MistCastle)becauselegendsaysthatfogwouldcloakitintimesofwar.
AlthoughbuiltintheMomoyamaperiod(1575–1600),theTenshuisindicativeofafortressfromtheWarringStatesperiod(1477–1575),withaviewingplatformonthetopfloor,thintimberwallsandastonetiledroof.TheTenshubaseisquitehighandsteepandusesrandom-stylestonepiling(nozurazumi).
AsquareshootingholeviewedfrominsidetheTenshu.InlinewithJapaneseaestheticideasofallowingmaterialstoagenaturally,thetimberhasbeenleftraw.However,exposedtimbermadethecastlemoresusceptibletofireandforthisreasonlatercastlesusuallyhadtheirshootingholes
plastered.
Theroundstoneroofeaveendtile(nokimarugawara)iscarvedwiththetomoepatternofthreecommas.Thetomoeevokestheimageofsprinklingwaterandoftenhassmalldotssurroundingthethreecommas.Thispatternisoftenusedonhousesto‘protect’thebuildingfromfire.The
stonerooftiles,stoneendtilesandstoneshachihoko(fish/tigerornament)areauniquefeatureofMaruokaCastle.
TheTenshusurvivedboththeEdoandMeijierasuntil1948whenanearthquakeleveledthebuilding.In1955,itwasrebuiltusing80percentoftheoriginalmaterials.
POINTSOFINTEREST
StonerooftilesmadeofShakudanistoneandstoneshachihako(fish/tigerornament)ontheroof.
Thecastlewalls,stone-droppingwindowsandshootingholesareallmadeoftimber.
Borogata-styleviewingplatform.Hitobashira(humanpost).
DIRECTIONS
FromAwara-onsenStationontheHokurikuLinetaketheKeifukubustoHon-MaruokaandgetoffatShiro-iriguchi.Busesrunhourlyandtake20minutes.BusesalsorunhourlyfromFukuiStation.
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HirosakiCastle1603–1611
omedistancefromKyoto,innorthernHonshu,liesHirosaki.AlthoughitslocationshieldeditfromthepowerstrugglestakingplaceincentralHonshu,theareaexperiencedseveralyearsoffightingamonglocalwarlordsinthelastquarterofthesixteenthcentury.OriginallycontrolledbytheNambuclan,fightingbeganin1571whenamemberofasubordinatebranchoftheclan,OuraTamenobu,revolted.TamenobupledgedloyaltytoToyotomiHideyoshiin1590,whosupportedhimasanindependentwarlord.OurasubsequentlychangedhisnametoTsugaruTamenobu.HesupportedHideyoshiattheBattleofOdawarain1590andparticipatedintheKoreanExpeditions.HeswitchedallegiancesbeforetheBattleofSekigaharain1600,joiningforceswiththeTokugawaside.Forhissupport,OurawasgrantedanincreaseinhisterritoryandgivenpermissiontoretainHirosaki.Althoughbesetbyanumberofdisturbances,uprisingsandincompetentmanagement,theTsugaruclankepttheirdomainthroughouttheEdoerauntiltheMeijiRestorationin1868.
TsugarubeganconstructiononHirosakiCastlein1603butdiedin1608leavinghissonTsugaruNobuhiratocompleteit.Thefive-storyTenshuintheHonmaruburntdownin1627afterbeingstruckbylightening.In1810,itwasreplacedwithathree-levelTenshurelocatedfromtheNinomaru.
TheextensivegroundsofHirosakiCastlecovernearly124acres(50ha)andhouseanumberofuniquebuildings.Therearefiveoriginalyaguramon(towergates),threetowers,aTenshuandaguardhouse.Extensivemoatssurroundthefourmainenclosures:theHonmaru,Ninomaru,SannomaruandNishinomaru.Today,thegroundshavebeenturnedintoapublicpark,withtheTenshuhousingamuseumofsamuraiartifactsandotheritemsrelatingtothecastle’shistory.
POINTSOFINTEREST
HirosakiisoneofthebestpreservedcastlesinnorthernJapan.Severalimportantculturalpropertiesdatefrom1611:Otemon,Higashimon,Tatsumiyagura,Hitsujisaruyagura,Ushitorayagura,Minamiuchimon,Higashiuchimon,Kitamon,
Hitsujisaruyagura,Ushitorayagura,Minamiuchimon,Higashiuchimon,Kitamon,TenshuandYorikibansho.
TheHigashiuchimon(eastgate)guardstheentrancetotheNinomaru(secondenclosure).Theabsenceofwallsoneithersidesuggeststimeswererelativelystablewhenthisgatewasbuilt.
Inauniqueprocedurecalledhikiya,the400ton(406,420kgTenshuwasliftedoffitsbasein2013toenablerenovationworkstothestonebaseandsurroundingwalls.Twenty-sevenjackselevatedtheTenshu4in(10cm),andthenoveraperiodof10weeksthefullyintactbuildingwasmovedhorizontallytothecenterofthemainenclosure230ft(70m)away.Itisscheduledtobereturned
toitsoriginalsiteby2020.
Thefivetowergatesareinastylerarelyseenatothercastles.Thetwo-storytimberyaguramonarefree-standinganddevoidoftheusualstonebaseoradjacentstonewallusedforadditionalstrength.Earthembankmentswithlowtimberwallscreatemasugatabox-shapedgatewaysattheKitamon(northgate)
andOtemon(maingate).Eachgatehasasmallguardwindowonthelowerfloorandanextendedslattedwindowonthesecondfloorforsamuraitoshootatintruders.Theroofsofthegatesaresteepduetohighsnowfall.
Therearethreeoriginaltowersinthecastlegrounds.Likethegates,theseareinastylenotcommonlyseenatothercastles.Threestorieshigh,setonalowstonebaseonearthembankments,theyappearsquatcomparedtothetypicaltwo-storycastletower.Thewhiteplasteredwallsaredevoidofdecoration,asarethethreerooflayers.Thesecond-storyroofhasanunusualirimoyagable,wherethesidesextendrighttotheedgeoftheroofcorners.
TheTenshuintheHonmaruhastwodifferentfaces.FromoutsidetheHonmaru,theTenshuiswellproportionedandgraceful.Stone-droppingwindowsaretoppedwithsweepinggables(kirizumihafu)andevenlyspacedwindowsrunbetweenwhiteplasteredbands.FrominsidetheHonmaru,however,theTenshuisquiteutilitarian,withflatwalls,nogablesandgroupedwindowswithplaincoppershutters.
TheOtemon(maingate)isafree-standingtwo-storyyaguramonguardingtheentrancetotheSannomaru(thirdenclosure).Amasugata(box-shaped)gatewayiscreatedbythetimberandplasteredmudwallsextendingfromthegatetoformacourtyardontheinsideoftheOtemon.Theselowtimberwallssitatopearthembankments.Itisunusualtoseeearthembankments
withoutstonefacingatimportantgateways.
DIRECTIONS
A25minutewalkfromHirosakiStation.
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WakayamaCastle1585
fterToyotomiHideyoshisubjugatedKishuprovincein1585,heorderedhisyoungerbrother,Hidenaga,tobuildacastleonMtOkayama(nowknownasMtTorafusu).TodoTakatoraoversawtheconstructionofthecastle.WakayamawasthefirstofmanysignificantcastlesTododesignedoverthenextfourdecades.
HidenagawastransferredtoKoriyamaCastlewithinayearandKuwayamaShigeharu,aretainerofToyotomiHideyoshi,wasinstalled.AftertheBattleofSekigahara,AsanoYoshinagawassenttoWakayama.Asanoincreasedthesizeofthecastle,createdtheinterconnectedTenshu,builtaresidenceintheNinomaruandchangedthemaingatefromtheOkaguchimontotheIchinohashimon.In1619,AsanoNagaakirawastransferredtoHiroshimaCastleandgiventheeightBingoprovincesstrippedfromFukushimaMasanorifordefyingtheTokugawashogunate.
TheTokugawashogunatethensentTokugawaYorinobu,thetenthsonofTokugawaIeyasu,toWakayamaCastle.Asoneofthesankehouses(threeTokugawahousesfromwhichtheshogunwaschosen),WakayamaCastlebecamethemostimportantfortresstowatchoverthewesternprovinces.DescendantsoftheTokugawafamilyremainedatthecastleuntiltheMeijiRestoration.Theeighthshogun,Yoshimune,andthefourteenthshogun,Iemochi,camefromWakayamaCastle.
After1871,whenthefeudalsystemwasabolishedandthecountrydividedintoprefectures,thecastlebecameanarmylookout.In1900,itwasopenedtothepublicanddesignatedanHistoricSitein1931.Destroyedinanairraidin1945,itwasrebuiltinconcretein1958.
WakayamaCastleisoneofthefewcastlestohaveaninnercourtyardcreatedbyinterconnectingtowerstoamainTenshu.HimejiCastleisanotherexample.Themainthree-levelTenshu(Otenshu)isconnectedtotheKotenshu,asmallkeepononeside,andtoanextendedcorridor(gamon)leadingtotheTenshuninomon.ThisgateislinkedtotheNinomonyagura(secondgatetower),whichisjoinedbyacorridortotheInuiyagura,whichconnectstotheDaidokoro
kitchenandbacktotheKotenshu.Originally,thecastlewascoveredinblacktimberpanelingtypicalofearlycastlesandthosebuiltbysupportersofToyotomiHideyoshi.In1798,TokugawaHarutomi,thetenthlord,orderedthecastle’sexteriorchangedtowhiteplaster.ThismayhavebeenforgreaterfireproofingortoalignitwiththeotherTokugawacastles,whichwereusuallywhite.In1846,thecastlewasstruckbylightninganddestroyed.UnlikeothercastlebuildingsdestroyedduringtheEdoperiodthatwerenotrebuiltduetolackoffunds,necessityorpermissionfromtheshogunate,WakayamaCastlereceivedspecialpermissionandwasrebuiltin1850.
TheIchinohashi(firstbridge)andOtemon(frontgate)leadingtotheNinomaru(secondenclosure).
TheOtenshu(mainkeep).OntherightistheKotenshu(smallkeep)andasingle-levelcorridorleadingtotheInuiyagura(notshown).TheInuiyagurawasconnectedbyacorridortothetwo-
leadingtotheInuiyagura(notshown).TheInuiyagurawasconnectedbyacorridortothetwo-levelNinomonyagura.ThistowerprotectedtheKusunokimon(gatetotheTenshu).Another
corridorconnectedthisgateandtheOtenshu,thuscreatinganenclosedcourtyardatthecenteroftheTenshucomplex.
TheOhashiroka(corridorbridge)enabledthelord,hisretainersandladiesinwaitingtocrossbetweentheNinomaruandNishinomaruwithoutbeingseenfromtheoutside.Thistypeofinclined
bridgeisunusual.Itwasreconstructedin2006.
InsidetheOhashiroka.
TheOkaguchimonwasoriginallyusedasthemaincastlegate.DuringtheAsanoperiod,itsnamewaschangedtoKarametemon(reargate)andtheIchinohashigomonwasusedasthefrontgate.TheOkaguchimonwasrebuiltbytheTokugawain1621andsurvivedtheairraidsthatdestroyed
therestofthecastlein1945.ItwasdesignatedanImportantCulturalPropertyin1957.
POINTSOFINTEREST
LanternbaseinthestonewalloftheInuiyagura.Enormouscurvedstone-droppingwindows.ClosedcourtyardcreatedbytheconnectedTenshuandtowers.CoveredcorridorgateconnectingtheNinomaruandSannomaru.Longsteps(gangi)forsoldierstoclimbtothetopofawalloverlookingthe
moatquicklyandenmasse.Differenttypesofstonewallpiling:roughfieldstonepiling(nozurazumi),
roughlycutandinsertedstones(uchikomihagi)andpreciselycutandfittedstones(kirikomihagi).Theearliestwallsusedtheroughestpiling,laterwallsuchikomihagiandimportantgatewayskirikomihagi.
DIRECTIONS
FromJRWakayamaStationabustoKoenmaebusstoptakes15minutesorittakesabout30minutestowalk.
B
FukuyamaCastle1619
y1616theTokugawahadeliminatedtheToyotomihouseandsubjugatedthedaimyointhewesternprovinces.Mostofthesedaimyo,however,hadnotsupportedtheTokugawaattheBattleofSekigaharain1600andsubsequentlysidedwiththeToyotomiatthesiegesofOsakaCastlein1614and1615.ThewesterndaimyoremainedaconstantthreattotheTokugawashogunatethroughouttheEdoera(1603–1868),anditwaspressurefromrebelliousforcesinthewestthatfinallyledtotheTokugawadownfallin1868.
Tomonitorrecalcitrantwesterndaimyo,theTokugawastrengthenedexistingcastlesandbuiltnewcastlesatstrategicpointsalongtheSanyoHighway.HimejiCastlewassignificantlyenlargedandstrengthenedbetween1601and1617.MoriTerumoto,aToyotomiloyalistandfounderofHiroshimaCastle,131miles(210km)westofHimeji,wasremoved.TrustedretainersoftheTokugawashogunwereinstalledatbothcastlesandimmediatelyrelievediftheirloyaltycameintoquestion.
Aspartofthisstrategy,theTokugawashogunateorderedMizunoKatsunaritobuildacastleatFukuyama,midwaybetweenHimejiandHiroshima,in1619.Katsunaribuiltaseven-storyTenshuonasmallhill.ManybuildingsweretakenfromFushimiCastlenearKyotoandreconstructed,includingFushimiyagura,Sujiganegomon,Tsukimiyagura(moon-viewingtower)andYudono(bathhouse).Someofthemsurviveintheiroriginalcondition.Doublemoatssurroundedthecastle,fedbyaninlettotheSetoInlandSea.
TheMizunoclanremainedatFukuyamauntil1700,afterwhichMatsudairaTadamasaoccupiedthecastlefrom1700to1710.TheAbeclanfollowedandruledtheareaforthenext164years.
Fromtheexterior,theTenshuappearstohavefivestoriesbuthasseveninside.Eachfloorgetsprogressivelysmallerinthesotogatastyle,indicativeoftenshubuiltinthelatteryearsofthe
moderncastlebuildingperiod(1576–1615).TheoriginalTenshuof1622burntdownduringWorldWarIIandwasreconstructedinconcretein1966.IthousestheFukuyamaCastleMuseum.
TheoriginalYuudono(bathhouseorhall)wasrelocatedfromFushimiCastlein1619.ItwasburntdownduringWorldWarIIandrestoredtoitsoriginalstatein1966.ThefamilycrestofToyotomi
Hideyoshi,whobuiltFushimiCastlein1594,iscarvedinthewoodendoors.
TheFushimiyagurawasoriginallytheMatsunomaruhigashiyaguraofFushimiCastle.Itwasdismantled,movedtoFukuyamaandrenamedin1619.Atwo-storyturretwithaborogata-stylewatchtower,itsurviveddemolitionduringtheMeijiRestorationandtheairraidsofWorldWarII.It
hasbeendesignatedanImportantCulturalAsset.
TheTsukimiyagura(moon-viewingtower)islocatedinthesoutheasterncorneroftheHonmaru.Althoughitiscalledamoon-viewingtower,itwas,infact,awatchtower.Itoriginallycamefrom
FushimiCastlebutwasdestroyedinthe1870saftertheMeijiRestoration.Itwasreconstructedinconcretein1966.
Morethan10stripsofironarenailedtothecornersofthepillarsanddoorsoftheSujiganegomon.Stillinitsoriginalstate,thisgateisbelievedtohavecomefromFushimiCastlein1619.Totheleftofthegateisalowwallwithshootingholes,slattedwindowsandatiledroof.Warriorsobserved
andfiredonintruderstryingtoenterthecastlefrombehindthesewalls.
TheYudonobathhouse.
TheMizunofamilyoccupiedFukuyamaCastlefrom1619to1700.Theirfamilycrestcanbeseenintheroundeaveendtiles(nokimaruguwara)throughoutthecastle.
TheTenshuislocatedintheHonmaruatthehighestpointinthecastlegrounds.Thelowerouterenclosuresaredelineatedbystonewallslinedwithlowplasteredmudwalls(dobei).
DetailofAzuchi-MomoyamastylecarvingintheKaramonatNishiHonganjiTemple,Kyoto.ThisgateisbelievedtohavecomefromFushimiCastle.
RemnantsofFushimiCastleFushimiCastlewasconstructedin1594toprotectKyotofromthesouthandasaplaceofretirementforToyotomiHideyoshi.Located25miles(40km)fromOsaka,itwaspossibletoseeafiresignalfromToyotomi’smaincastleatOsaka.Ornatecarvings,brightcolorsandtheuseofgoldleafwereusedinabundanceinthelavishinteriors.Thecastleisfamousforitsgold-platedtearoominwhichHideyoshiissaidtohaveentertainedtheemperor.Plumtreeswereplantedatthecastle,givingthesitethenameMomoyama(PlumMountain).TheelaboratestyleoftheAzuchi-Momoyamaperiod(1576–1600)derivesitsnamefromFushimiandAzuchi(1576)castles.
Thecastlewasdestroyedinanearthquakein1595andanotherbuiltneartheoriginalone.Hideyoshi,however,diedsoonafteritscompletion.
AfterHideyoshi’sdeathin1598,FushimiCastlewastakenoverbyTokugawaIeyasubeforehemovedtoOsakaCastlethefollowingyear.FushimiCastlewasoneofthefirsttargetsoftheToyotomiloyalistsleadinguptotheBattleofSekigaharain1600.AttackedbyKobayakawaHideaki,itwasundersiegefor11daysandbravelydefendedbyToriiMototadabeforeheadmitteddefeatandcommittedritualsuicide(seppuku).KobayakawalatersidedwithTokugawaIeyasuatSekigahara,resultinginthedefeatoftheToyotomiloyalists.
In1602,TokugawaIeyasurebuiltFushimiCastlebutitwasdismantledin1623.ManyofitsbuildingsweredistributedaroundJapan,anditispossibletoseeremnantsofFushimiCastleatEdoCastle,NijoCastle,NishiHonganjiinKyotoandFukuyamaCastle.
AftertheMeijiRestoration,themoatswerefilledinandmanytowersweredestroyed.TheTenshuandbathhouseweredestroyedinWorldWarIIairraids,butFushimayaguraandSujiganegomonsurvived.DrystonewallswerelaterremovedtomakewayforFukuyamaStation,whichrunsalongsidethecastle.TheTenshuwasrebuiltinconcretein1966.
POINTSOFINTEREST
TheoriginalandunusualShorou(belltower).ThefourbuildingsfromFushimiCastle,twoofwhichremainintheir
originalcondition.ThereconstructedYudonobathhousewasoriginallyfromToyotomi
Hideyoshi’sFushimiCastlebuiltin1594.TheToyotomifamilycrestiscarvedonthedoorsoftheYudono.
StepsleadingtotheareabehindSujiganegomon.
Round,squareandrectangularshootingholeslinetheplasteredmudwalls.
DIRECTIONS
5minuteswalkfromJRFukuyamaStation.
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HagiCastle1604
ocatedinaremotecorneronthewestcoastofJapan,HagiCastlewasthehomeoftheMoriclan.PriortotheBattleofSekigaharain1600,theMoriwereoneofJapan’swealthiestandmostpowerfulfamilies.AsretributionforsupportingthelosingsideatSekigahara,TokugawaIeyasuconfiscatedsixoftheMori’seightprovinces,togetherwiththeircastleatHiroshima.OrderedtomovetoHagi,theMori’sincomedroppedsharply,from1.2millionkokuto360,000koku.
Havinglostterritoryandmostofhisincome,MoriTerumotobeganbuildingacastleatHagiin1604.ThisbecamethebaseoftheMoriclanforthenext260years.Aschoolforrevolutionarysamuraiwasestablishedhere,withmostofthegraduatesplayinganimportantroleinoverthrowingtheTokugawashogunatein1867.In1863,MoriTakachikamovedtheadministrativefunctionsofthedomaintoYamaguchi.ManyofthecastlebuildingsatHagiweredismantledandthecastleabandonedintheMeijiera,after1868.
Hagiisanexcellentexampleoftheuseoflocationandtopographyfordefense.Thecastletownissituatedonapentagonal-shapedislandsurroundedbytheMatsumotoRiver,theHashimotoRiver,theAbuRiverandtheSeaofJapan.A2,428ft(740m)-longoutermoatseparatedtheSannomaru,containingretainerandsamuraihouses,fromtherestofthetownwheremerchants,lower-rankingsamuraiandartisanslived.ThenarrowstreetsoftheSannomaruarelinedwithplasteredmudwalls,atimberNagaya(barracks)andavarietyofgates.Theyweredesignedtoconfuseaninvadingarmythroughsharpturns,deadendsandhighwallsthatobstructedvision.DuringtheEdoera,samuraiwerepermittedtohavewallssurroundingtheirhouseandafrontgatebefittingtheirrank.Virtuallyintact,thetownisaremarkableremnantofanEdo-eracastletown.
ThecastlewasbuiltonandaroundMtShizuki,asmallpeninsulaextendingintothesea.Twoenclosureswithmultiplewatchtowersweresitedontopofthe470ft(143m)-highpeak.TheHonmaru,Tenshuandadministrativebuildings
werepositionedatthebase.AmoatseparatedtheNinomarufromtheHonmaru.Anextensivewall,theJugandobeialongtheseafront,protectedthecastlefromseaborneinvasion.
Builtin1845andoriginallylocatedintheSannomaru,theHananoeteahousewasmovedtoShizukaParkin1889.ManypoliticaldiscussionswereheldherebetweendaimyoandvassalsintheyearsleadinguptotheMeijiRestoration.ThesouthernsamurailedbytheMoriweretoplay
animportantroleinoverthrowingtheTokugawashogunatein1867.
AviewoftheUchibori(innermoat)fromthebaseoftheTenshu.Afive-story,47ft(14.4m)-highTenshuwaslocatedonthisbaseatthefootofMtShizuki.Builtin1604,itwasthesymbolofHagi
Castlefor270yearsbeforebeingdemolishedin1874aftertheMeijiRestoration.
POINTSOFINTEREST
Althoughtherearenoextantbuildings,thesizeoftheTenshubaseandstonewallsrevealthesignificantscaleoftheoriginalcastle.
stonewallsrevealthesignificantscaleoftheoriginalcastle.Alongwallofstairs(gangi)besidetheTenshubaseforwarriorstoascend
quickly.EnormousrockswithchiselmarksintheTsumenomarushowhowrocks
weresplitforbuildingwallsandbases.SamuraihousesandmudwallsliningthestreetsintheSannomaru.Merchanthousesinthecastletown.
Alongwallofsteps(gangi)besidetheTenshuenabledwarriorstoascendthewallspeedilyandenmasseifattacked.
TheKitanosoumon(northgate).TherewerethreemaingatesatHagiCastle:theKitanosoumon,Nakanosoumon(middlegate)andHiyakonosoumon(maingate).Thesegateswereclosed
overnight,prohibitingpassagewithoutapermit.
overnight,prohibitingpassagewithoutapermit.
DIRECTIONS
AlthoughHagiisremoteandtakestimetoreach,itiswellworththeeffort.Itslocationonthecoastisstunning,withunspoiltbeachesandsurroundingmountains.Thetownisextremelywellpreservedandthecastleruinsextensive.Thecastleisa15minutebusor10minutetaxiridefromHagiStation.
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P
TakedaCastle1441,1577
erched1,158ft(353m)abovesealevel,TakedaCastlesprawlsoverthetopofthemountainoverlookingthesurroundingTajimaregioninnorthHyogo.Thissitewasfirstusedinthemid-fifteenthcenturywhenlocaldaimyoSozenYamanaorderedtheconstructionofacastletoprotecttheTajimaareafromwarlordsinHarimaandTanba.Hisretainer,OtagakiMitsukage,builtthecastlein1441andwassubsequentlymadeitslord.Originallyasimplemountainfortofearthworksandwoodenpalisades,thetopofthemountainwasleveledtopermituninterruptedsurveillanceofthenearbymountainsandadjoiningvalleys.
Overacenturylater,in1577,ToyotomiHideyoshiseizedthecastle,placingitunderthecontrolofhisyoungerbrother,ToyotomiHidenaga.Toyotomireinforcedtheearthworkswithstonewallsandstonebases,ontopofwhichaTenshuandtowerswereerected.TwolordsfollowedHidenaga—KuwayamaShigeharuandthefinallordofTakedaCastle,AkamatsuHirohide.AkamatsufoughtonthewesternsideattheBattleofSekigaharain1600butswitchedsidesaftertheTokugawavictory.HetookpartinanattackonTottoriCastleandwasaccusedofsettingfiretothetown.Toatone,hewasforcedtocommitseppuku.TakedaCastlewasabandoned.Mountaincastleswerenowredundantasfightingbetweenrivalwarlordshadceaseduponthecountry’sunification.Theseremotesiteswerealsoinconvenientaslordsneededtobeclosertotheburgeoningcastletownstoeffectivelyadministertheirdomain.
TakedaCastleisdividedintofourparts:Kitasenjo(northarea),Minamisenjo(southarea),Hanayashiki(westarea)andthecentralareawheretheTenshuwaslocated.Allexcellentvantagepoints,thesesitescontaintheHonmaru(mainenclosure),Ninomaru(secondenclosure),SannomaruandMinaminomaru(southenclosure).Thelord’sresidencewaslocatedatthefootofthemountain,thefoundationsofwhichhaverecentlybeendiscovered.Thecastle,whichissaidtoappearlikeasleepingtiger,isnicknamedTorafusu-jo(TigerCastle).
TheTenshudai(Tenshubase)islocatedintheHonmaru(centralenclosure).
Mountaincastleswereeffectivelylookoutsandonlyusedasalastlineofdefense.Battleswereusuallyfoughtonopenground.AsJapanunifiedinthelatterquarterofthesixteenthcentury,daimyoneededtobeclosertothepeopletoruleefficiently.Castlesbecameanadministrative
centeraswellasafortress.Consequently,themountaincastlewasrenderedobsoletebytheendofthesixteenthcentury.ThisviewofthetownbelowisfromtheNinomaru(secondenclosure).
POINTSOFINTEREST
Thestonebasesoftowers,stonewallsandtheTenshuprovideagoodindicationofhowthecastleoncecoveredthetopofthemountain.ThestonewallsdatefromthelatesixteenthcenturyafterthecastlewastakenbyToyotomi
fromthelatesixteenthcenturyafterthecastlewastakenbyToyotomiHideyoshi.Priortothis,thewallswereearthenramparts.
ThetowerbaseintheMinamininomaru(southernsecondenclosure)isconstructedofroughfieldstonepiling(nozurazumi).
DIRECTIONS
FromthebackofTakedaStationthetrekupthemountaintothecastlesitetakesabout45minutesor15minutesbytaxiorshuttlebus,followedbya10minutewalktotheentrance.
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FortGoryokaku1857–1864
ocatedinHakodateonthenorthernislandofHokkaido,FortGoryokakuwasthefirstWestern-stylefortressbuiltinJapan.Goryokaku,meaning‘pentagon,’isafive-pointedstar-shapedfortressenclosedbyamoat.BasedontheEuropeanfortressesconstructedbyFrenchmilitaryengineerSebastianVauban(1633–1707),itwasdesignedbyJapanesescientistAyasburoTakedain1857andcompletedin1864.Geometricfortresseswerebuiltinthisstyleduringthenineteenthcenturyasadefenseagainstmodernweaponry.
Lyingonashelteredbay,thecityofHakodatewasaninternationaltradingportpriortotheseventeenthcentury.ItclosedaftertheTokugawashogunateceasedallforeigntrading,leavingonlythesouthernportofNagasakiopen.Hakodatereopenedin1854afterCommodorePerrydemandedJapantradewithAmerica.ThetownsoonprosperedasmerchantsarrivedfromtheUnitedStates,Holland,Portugal,Germany,Switzerland,Denmark,Italy,Austria,Hungary,SpainandHawaii.
TheTokugawashogunateorderedtheconstructionofafortatHakodatein1857asadefenseagainstthethreatposedbyRussiatothenorth.TheshogunateoversawthetradingactivitiesofHakodateandtheadministrationofHokkaidoprovincefromwithinthefort.
Notlongafteritscompletion,FortGoryokakuwastestedasamilitarystrongholdwhenitbecamethelastholdoutoftherebelshogunateforcesstandingagainsttheJapaneseImperialArmy.ThelastbattleoftheBoshinWar(1868–69)wasfoughthereinApril1869.ThedefeatoftheshogunateforcesatGoryokakusignaledtheendoffeudalJapanand700yearsofsamurairule.ThefortwasdesignatedaSpecialHistoricSiteandisnowapublicpark.
POINTSOFINTEREST
Thestar-shapedfortisuniqueinJapan.AsthelastfortbuiltbytheTokugawashogunate,italsomarksthesitewheretheirrulefinallyended.
TheBugyosho(MagistratesOffice).
ThestarshapeofthefortisvisiblefromthenearbyGoryokakuTower.
Therearethreebridgescrossingthemoatintotheinnerenclosure:Ichinobashi,Ninobashiand
Therearethreebridgescrossingthemoatintotheinnerenclosure:Ichinobashi,NinobashiandSannobashi.
TheformerMagistratesOffice(Bugyosho)hasbeenreconstructedinthecenterofthefort.Theoriginalbuildingwasdemolishedin1871.
Abird’s-eyeviewofthefortressispossiblefromtheobservationdeckofthenearbyGoryokakuTower.
The1,500cherrytreesplantedwithinthefortgroundsmakeHakodateapopularspotinspring.
DIRECTIONS
FromHakodateStation,takethetramtoGoryokakuKoenMae,10minutes.Thefortressisanother10minutesonfoot.
Stonewallslinethemoataroundtheinnerenclosure.
Colorkeyonpage37
Japan’s100MostImportantCastles
GlossaryBakufumilitarygovernmentorshogunateBanshoguardhouseBorogatatypeoftenshuwithalookouttowerBushiwarrior,samuraiChidorihafutypeofroofgableresemblingtheoutstretchedwingsofachidori(plover)Daimyo
highestrankingsamurai;daimyowerelordsofadomainorregionwithanannualincomeinexcessof10,000kokuofrice.
DaitenshumaintowerDegoshimadolatticedbaywindowDobeilow,plaster-coveredearthwalltoppedwithasmalltiledroof;setatopstonewallsand
interspersedwithshootingholesDomainareaoflandcontrolledbyadaimyoDokuritsushikiindependenttenshuDoshinentypeofcastlelayoutwiththemainenclosureatthecenterandthesecondandthirdenclosuresarrangedinconcentricringsarounditDozostorehousemadeoftimber,mudandstrawandcoveredwithplasterFukugoshikiattachedtenshu
GengyodecorationattheapexofagableGobozumisophisticatedformofrandomstonewallpilingwherelongrectangularstoneswereembeddeddeepintotheearthforstabilityGotenpalace
Hakoboribox-shapedmoatHafugableHashi(bashi)bridgeHashigokakucastlelayout,withthemainenclosureattheapexofahillfromwhichthesecond
andthirdenclosuresdescendlikestepsHashirapillarHatayaguraflagtowerHeilowwallssurroundingcastleenclosuresHigashieastHirajirocastleonaplainHirayaguraone-leveltowerHirayamajirocastleonahillsurroundedbyaplainHitsujisaruyagurasouthwesttowerHonmarumainenclosure/baileyHori(bori)moatIdoyaguratowerforhousingawellInuiyaguranorthwesttowerIrimoyatwo-sidedroofwithaclosedtriangulargableatoppositeendsIrimoyahafugablein
whichthetwosidesextendtotheedgesoftheroofIshistone/rockIshiotoshimadostone-droppingwindow;protrudingwindowwithatrapdoorbuiltoutoverthe
stonewallfordefenderstodropstones,boilingwateroroilonattackersscalingthewallsIshigakistonewall
-josuffixmeaningcastle,Himeji-joKagamienormousstonesplacedatimportantentrancesKanpakuImperialregent;titlegiventoToyotomiHideyoshiwholedthecountryattheendofthesixteenthcentury.
KarahafuundulatingroofgableKarametereargateofacastle
Karamonpost-and-beamgatewithacuspedgableKatomadobell-shapedwindowKawaratileKirikomihagicutandinsertedmasonry,themosttechnicallyadvancedformofstonepiling;
preciselyhewnstoneswerecarefullyalignedtocreateawallwithoutgapsKitanorthKotenshusmalltenshuKoenparkKokumeasurementofrice;onekokuwasconsideredsufficienttofeedamanforayear.Koraimonpost-and-beamgatewitharoofextendingoverthefrontpostsandgate,plustwo
subsidiaryroofsovertherearsupportsKurastorehouseKuruwaenclosure/bailey(seemaru)MadowindowMarucircle,enclosure/bailey(alsocalledkuruwa)Masugatamonseriesofgateswhichcreatea
box-shapeddefenceMinamisouthMizutemonwatergateMongateMushamadowarrior’swindow;slattedwindowthroughwhicharrowscouldbeshotNagaya
tenementhouseNamakobeiseacucumbertiling;thekindoftilingusedtostrengthenplasteredmudwalls;the
rounded,raisedplasterbetweenthetilesresembleseacucumbersNawabarilayoutofthecastle
NinomarusecondenclosureNinomonsecondgateNijuyaguratwo-leveltowerNishinomaruwestenclosureNokimarugawararoundeaveendtileswhichusuallydisplayedthecrestofthelordofthecastle
NokihiragawaradecorativeflattileliningtheroofedgebetweentheroundeaveendtilesNozurazumirandomkindofstonewallpilingusingfieldstones(seeransekizumi)NunozumitypeofstonewallpilinginwhichthestonesarepreciselysquaredandfittedinevenrowsOginokobaifan-shapedstonewalls
OhiromaaudiencehallOnigawaragargoyle-like‘monster’tilesontheeavecornersOtemonmaingateRansekizumitypeofrandomstonepiling,alsocallednozurazumiorfieldstonepilingRenkaku
castlelayoutwiththemainenclosureinthecenterwiththesecondandthirdenclosuresoneithersideRenketsushikicompoundtenshu
RenjimadopushouttimberwindowSamashootingholeforarchers,gunnersorspearmenSannomaruthirdenclosureSanjuyagurathree-leveltowerSangizumizipper-likearrangementofrectangularstonesatthecornersofstonewalls
Shachihokomythicaldolphin-likecreaturesontheapexofroofgablesShirocastleShogunmilitaryleader;themostpowerfuldaimyoSeirenreceptionroomsSotogatamultilevelstyleoftenshuwhereeachfloorhasthesameshapebutdecreasesinsize
towardthetopSumiyaguracornertowerTaikoretiredregent
TaikobeidrumwallwherethesidesbulgeoutlikeadrumTaikoyagurasignaldrumtowerTamonyaguraextendedone-storytowerTatsumiyagurasoutheasttowerTeiengardenTeiritsushikiconnectedtenshuTennoheavenlysovereignoremperor;theImperialleaderofJapanTenshumaincastletower;
donjonTenshudaiearth-filledstonefacedbaseofthetenshuTepposamagunshootingholeTeppoyaguraguntowerTsukimiyaguramoon-viewingtowerTsujibeisoilwallUchikomihagimostcommontypeofpilingusingindividualrocksroughlyhewnintoshapeby
hammerandchiselUkishirocastlesurroundedbywater;‘floatingcastle’UshitorayaguranortheasttowerUzumimonsmallopeninginastonewallWatariyaguracrossingorconnectingtowerNishiwest
YagenboriU-shapedmoatYaguratowerorturret;arrowstorehouseYaguramontwo-storytowergatewithanopeningon
thegroundfloorandguardhousewithfiringpositionsonthefirstfloorYakuimonsimplegatewithasingleroofcoveringYamajiromountaincastle
YamazamaarrowshootingholeYashikimansion
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OsakaCastle