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The C o s m e t i c C o n s p i r a c yEach year, Americans spend over $22 billion on skin

care and cosmetic products with the hope of improvingtheir appearance and retarding the aging process. Whatyou may not know is that these soaps, cleansers, shavingcreams, toothpaste, hair dyes, moisturizers, bubble baths,and sunscreens could actually be responsible for causingthe very wrinkles, brown spots, moles, hair loss, andsagging skin you are lead to believe they prevent. Thegreater crime is that many of the products in commercialcosmetic and skin care products are proven to promotecancer, and lead to other serious health conditions. Fully98% of all skin care products may be harmful to yourhealth; yet, this multibillion dollar industry remains "self-regulated' by large corporate conglomerates who spendmillions of dollars annually to market what Charles Revson,founder of Revlon, called "Hope In A Bottle."

There is one advocate in the crowd who is working toexpose one of the biggest conspiracies affecting theAmerican populous today, the Cosmetic Conspiracy. She isLinda Chae. This rebel for the healthy-skin cause, hasbeen working arduously for more than 28 years,researching, experimenting, testing and developing safe,non-toxic, and health supporting skin care products. Hermission is to expose toxic cosmetic ingredients andeducate consumers on how to make healthy choices fortheir skin, choices that improve, rather than destroy, thequality of their lives. Natural Health & Fitness caught upwith Linda Chae on a recent New York visit. Here is whatshe had to say...

NHF: Linda, there is so much hype in our society today,people simply don't know what to believe. Is this cosmeticconspiracy just another over-inflated, attention-grabbingscheme?

HAT'S GETT

Chae: Absolutely not; this issue is very real. Increasingcancer rates have prompted a lot of finger pointing, andmany of the ingredients used in the formulation ofcosmetics are most definitely part of the problem, not thesolution. Quite a few cosmetic companies do not want you

Quite a few cosmetic companies do not wantyou to know about your skin and how it works.To them, profitability is their chief concern, notthe therapeutic properties of their products,

to know about your skin and how it works. To them,profitability is their chief concern, not the therapeuticproperties of their products. These companies will oftenforego quality for cheaper processing, using impure andpotentially harmful ingredients. In some cases, they aren'tpurposely choosing to use harmful ingredients; they simplyhave not taken the time or made an effort to understandhow potentially harmful they can be. In other cases,however, companies do use toxins knowingly, keepingdosages under the 'toxic dose' limit, as set by the industry.These limits, however, are arbitrary. In the U.S., forexample, it is 'acceptable' that up to 12-15% of a productcontain DEA, a known carcinogen. By contrast, in Europethe acceptable level is only 1 %.

NHF: How widespread is this problem?Chae: More widespread than one could imagine. To start,many of the ingredients in skin care products have beenproven to promote cancer and other serious health issues,yet the cosmetic industry continues to use theseingredients in the products you buy. In fact, nearly 98% ofthe ingredients used in skin care products are potentiallydangerous to your health. Aging is a myth, perpetuated bythe cosmetic industry, that most people have bought into,not realizing that the very products they are using may becausing their wrinkles, brown spots, moles, and saggingskin. Skin is easier to care for than we are lead to believeby advertisers; it is naturally responsive to healthy

treatment.NHF: So, it is possible forpeople to achieve youngerlooking skin, and revitalizedamaged skin cells andtissues, even after years ofusing toxic products.Chae: Yes. Our bodies areresilient and regenerative.Even after years of abuse,the skin will respond toorganic living foods, cleanwater and air, and evenproducts that supportbiological processes. Theway you care for your skin

contributes to your vitality and energy, or it can leave yousluggish, uncomfortable and fatigued. The choice is yours.If you give your skin what it needs, it is possible to reversedamage; your skin gives birth to new cells every 24 to 40days, depending on its age, and health.

Hea!ih & Fitness 27

NHF: Can you give us some examples ofthese potentially hazardous ingredients?Chae: Diethanolamide (DEA), as Imentioned before, also Sodium LaurethSulfate, and petroleum basedingredients, like

Can you imaginewrapping your entire

body with Saran wrap?This is what happens

when you use productscontaining mineral oil,and other petroleum

plastics.

mineral oil,petroleum jellies,and propyleneglycol (PEG) areamong the mostutilized andd a n g e r o u singredients. Mineraloil and otherpetroleum by-products are liquid plastics that coat andsuffocate the skin. The skin, our body'slargest organ, is responsible foreliminating more cellular waste than thekidneys or the intestines. For every 1.5inches, it contains over 100 sweatglands, 15 sebaceous (oil glands), 4yards of nerves and 3 million cells. Canyou imagine wrapping your entire bodywith Saran wrap? This is what happenswhen you use products containingmineral oil, and other petroleum plastics.

NHF: So, in essence, our pores becomeclogged, and our system gets 'backedup.'Chae: Exactly. When you cover your skinwith plastic wrap, it cannot breathe oreliminate wastes; the metabolism isslowed, and the immune systemweakened. This contributes to a toxicbody, which can produce mentalconfusion, impatience, anger, and moodswings. In addition, because the skin isstarved of oxygen, skin cells die faster,resulting in a dull, taut, and wrinkledappearance. A weakened immunesystem also increases your susceptibilityto health problems, caused by bacteria,parasites, viruses, molds & fungus. Ourskin is our first line of defense; if it isdisabled, you are at a higher risk forillness and disease.

NHF: How often are these ingredientsused in skin care products?Chae: With astounding frequency; over90% of all ingredients in commerciallyavailable cosmetics products are ofsynthetic origin. Synthetic fragrances,emulsifiers, solvents and surfactants areamong the prime suspects for containingcontamination, yet these are usually

28 Natural Health & Fitness

labeled nontoxic by the raw materialmanufacturers. Debra Lynn Dadd, in herbook, Nontoxic. Natural and Earthwisesaid that today, synthetic chemicals,made primarily from crude oil, are used

in nearly every industryand consumer product. Infact, the chemical age,brought on by World War IItechnology, has producedpotentially hazardoussubstances in almostevery item we purchase.

NHF: Why are the skincare products, perfumes,

cosmetics containing theseand otheringredients not marked as toxic, whenthey are clearly dangerous?Chae: The term nontoxic is verymisleading. In her book, Debra LynnDadd uncovered that, "according to theFederal Regulatory definition, nontoxicdoesn't necessarily mean 'not at alltoxic,' or 'absolutely safe,' but can mean,for example, that up to one-half of thelaboratory animals exposed to theproduct through ingestion or inhalationdied within two weeks." This isunconscionable. Would you use aproduct if you knew it had ingredientsthat could induce death in a lab animal?Millions of Americans do, and manytimes a day.

breaking down their immune barrier, andincreasing the risk of infection or illness.

You may also find it interesting thatOSHA requires hazardous materials tobe labeled with a safety data sheet whichis visibly attached to the outside of theproduct container. In the case ofpropylene glycol, the safety data sheetreads, "avoid contact with skin, eyes andclothing. Wear protective clothing andeye goggles when handling thisingredient. Prolonged skin contact maycause irritation." This is appalling,especially when we realize propyleneglycol is used in the manufacture of mostproducts people apply to their skin daily.It's often used in concentrations as highas 20%, even up to 60% in most stickdeodorants. Hydrographers, whomeasure water levels in the Sierramountains, use propylene glycol in thetanks to ensure the water doesn't freeze.When they empty the tanks it isconsidered toxic waste; if any spills onthe ground, it is marked contaminatedand must dug up and carried away.Thousands of people are suffering fromthe adverse effects of off-the-shelfcosmetics and skin, hair, and cosmeticproducts with symptoms such asheadaches, rashes, eye infections,memory loss, excema, and psoriasis. Is itany wonder why?

NHF: The cosmeticindustry and thegovernment are awareof these dangerouslyhigh levels of toxins?Chae: Yes. Propyleneglycol, for example, is avery common ingredientin skin care, make-upproducts and shavecreams. It is even inmany "natural" skin careproducts. Propyleneglycol is a petroleum by- *product, and is the solvent of choiceused by cosmetic companies. It is usedto extract the active materials from herbsand other plants; it breaks down thecellulose lining in the plant so thatvaluable properties of the plant seep out.When propylene glycol contacts yourskin, it performs a similar solvent role. Itbreaks down the protein barrier, allowinga person's natural moisture to escape,

In the late 1980s,an FDA survey

found levels of thehighly toxic 1,4

dioxane, a deadly,cancer-causing

chemical, in all bui3 of 30 children's

shampoo andbubble bath

products.

NHF: If these toxinsare so dangerous,then why doesn't thegovernment step in?Chae: Big businessand special interestgroups. Why wouldthe government wantto say goodbye to a$22 billion tax-payingindustry? A recentU.S. News & WorldReport articlereported thatapproximately $5.5

million, less than 1 % of the total FederalDrug Administration (FDA) budget isspent on regulating the cosmetic industry- a "self regulated" industry whichproduces over 20,000 types of products.Cosmetics are the least regulatedproducts under the Federal Food, Drug &Cosmetic Act; pre-market safety testingis not required. In fact, the burden ofproof lies with the government in

continued on p. 30

continued from p.28

determining and regulating unsafe products. With fewer than 30 employees, the report unsurprisingly concluded that thegovernment is rarely up to this challenge.

NHF: What regulations do you recommend for the industry?Chae: Accurate labeling of all cosmetic ingredients. Corporations are not currently required to list ingredients. For example, mostsoaps do not list ingredients like fragrances, colors, flavorings, and other 'trade secrets', which contain potentially harmful solventsand carcinogens. I am a strong advocate of listing all ingredients, even those used in the processing of the products. In addition,there should be a ban on ingredients that are known carcinogens and toxins like: DEA detergents, propylene glycol, sodium lauryl& laureth sulfate, fragrances, FD&C colors, and PEG. (for a complete list, see "The Dirty Dozens" sidebar, page 35).

NHF: That would put a lot of people out of business.Chae: I suppose it could; that's purely speculative. One thing is for sure, if regulations were implemented and enforced, it wouldresult in a significant improvement in thehealth for the American people.

NHF: You say that propylene glycol is inmany 'natural' products? How can thistoxic ingredient be considered 'natural' bythese manufacturers?Chae: Propylene glycol, as I mentioned,is used to extract valuable essences andoils from herbs, flowers, seaweeds andother plants. Because it is a part of theproduction process, and not a baseingredient, manufacturers will often notlist it as an ingredient. If propylene glycolis used for extraction purposes, you canbe sure that it remains in the product. So,if the extraction method is not specificallylisted on the product, be suspicious andcall the manufacturer to ask for a fulldisclosure. Also, don't be fooled bysomething that appears to be 'natural'.Sodium laureth sulfate is often listed on'natural' products with a tagline (extractedfrom coconuts). This does not mean it'sharmless. All sodium laureth sulfatecomes from coconuts; and it's all toxic.

NHF: You mention that fragrances do not,legally, have to be mentioned on aningredient list. Many people we know areincreasingly intolerant of fragrances.Chae: Artificial fragrances have animmediate impact on the brain and body,and are a contributor to allergies,sluggishness, feeling down and moody.They can also lower concentration andmemory. Complaints registered with theFDA about synthetic fragrances includeheadaches, dizziness, rashes, skinirritation, violent coughing, vomiting, andhyper-pigmentation (brown spots). Thelady that heads up my researchdepartment has a permanent brown spoton her cheek and along the side of herneck from using perfumed products.

continued on p. 32

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continued from p.30

NHF: What causes these reactions?Chae: Most fragrances are petroleum plus substances derivedfrom animal urine and feces which contain the cellular patternfor whatever pathogens the animal carried and excreted. Sincesynthetic fragrances contain alcohol, a solvent, isopropylalcohol and fragrance resins easily penetrate into the skin,leaving it vulnerable to the reactions I described above, andsometimes to permanent discoloration.

NHF: If you were to point to one process in the care of skin thatis most misunderstood, and most damaging, what would it be?Chae: Cleansing. On the whole, we over-cleanse our skin.Cleansing is the first step in either protecting the skin'smoisture and immune systems, or damaging the skin. Mostpeople unknowingly over-cleanse with products that containharsh ingredients. The skin has sebaceous glands, locatedunder the epidermis, which secrete all of the natural preciousoils and waxes to the surface of the skin. The natural waxescoat the surface, protecting it and keeping the moisture in. Oneof the fastest ways to dismantle the protective layer of oil is bycleansing skin with most of the cleansers on the market today.These typical cleansers contain either soaps or chemicaldetergents which dissolve the skin's natural proteins and oils.These detergents strip the skin, leaving it vulnerable tohundreds of pollutants and chemicals. They also dry out theskin, causing it to become malnourished and age prematurely,thereby reducing the skin's capacity to deal with the damagingeffects of dirt, dust, pollution, sun and drying wind.

NHF: How do you know if your cleanser is a detergent?Chae: Look for names like sodium lauryl and laureth sulfate,cocomide MEA or DEA (whether it's from coconuts or not, it's adiethanolamide detergent containing nitrosamine, a provencarcinogen). The clear, vegetable based soaps, also containlye-based sudsy chemicals. Vegetable oil has been addedinstead of the animal fats (commonly called tallow) which areadded to most opaque soaps. Either way, almost no testing hasbeen done to evaluate the possible synergistic negative effectsthat occur when synthetic chemicals are combined in soaps orskin creams. Scientists do not yet understand the ultimateeffects of these chemicals; it is therefore difficult to regulatetheir use, and count on them as safe for general use.

NHF: So, you recommend that people do not use bar soap oneither their face or body?Chae: Yes. Currently, there are no bar soaps on the market thatI can recommend. The key is to find a mild cleanser that doesnot significantly affect the pH of the skin. Unfortunately, mostsoaps leave the skin with a high alkaline pH (nine or 10). Ittakes anywhere from two to four hours for the skin's pH torebalance; meanwhile, the body's resistance to diseasecausing microbes is significantly lowered.

NHF: What about Dr. Bronners (trademark) soap or castillesoap?Chae:These soaps have a lower pH (9) than other products onthe market, but still not low enough to preserve the skin's

continued on p.34

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continued from p.32

immunity. In general, it is very difficult to develop a low-alkalinepH soap; we're working on doing this now.

NHF: In the meantime, what's a person to do?Chae: One very good source of information that is available toconsumers is The Safe Shopper's Bible, written by DavidSteinman and Samuel S. Epstein, M.D. While some of theproducts listed in the book as 'acceptable'contain toxic ingredients, they are betterchoices than the ones that many Americanscurrently use. Also, ingredient labels forcosmetic, skin and hair care products arelisted in order of higher concentrations tolower, similar to food labels. If you must use aproduct with toxic ingredients, select the onesthat have fewer toxins and lowerconcentrations of them.

60 hours of training in the area of skin anatomy and biology,compared to 500 hours for certified aestheticians. How couldskin care products be made and not have them 100% based onthe function of the skin? When I first started realizing even afraction of the problems synthetic ingredients were creating inour bodies, I became committed to understanding the mysteryof the skin and developing nutritional and healthy skin care

products.

NHF: What about cosmetics like foundations,eye shadows, eyeliners, and mascara; arethese products high risk also?Chae: Yes. Again, be very careful about whatyou select to use on your face and eyes.Products containing sodium lauryl sulfate(SLS) denature the proteins of the eye tissues,impairing development permanently. SLScauses eye irritation, delays healing of cornealtissue, and is linked to cataracts. Because it isabsorbed by the skin, it does not have to enterthe eye directly.

NHF: Is there any difference in the care ofmen's skin than for women?Chae: No, other than in the need to provide agentle shave. Shaving is harsh on most men'sskin; many shave creams and skin tonicsexacerbate the problem. Again, you need to look at theingredient label.

NHF: Do you have the same recommendations for children?Chae: Absolutely, even more so. In the late 1980s, an FDAsurvey found levels of the highly toxic 1,4 dioxane, a deadly,cancer-causing chemical, in all but 3 of 30 children's shampooand bubble bath products that were analyzed. Of 54(ethoxylated) cosmetic raw materials tested, all contained 1,4-dioxane. Ethoxylated ingredients are PEGs and detergentssuch as cocamide (DEA,MEA), and sodium laureth sulfate.These detergents are used in everything from shampoo andfacial cleansers to toothpaste. Most products that make sudscontain sodium lauryl or laureth sulfate plus cocamide (DEA).Check your bathrooms to see if you can find these ingredientson any labels of products you have been using.

NHF: This must be a real eye-opening exercise for many people.Chae: It was for me. When I started in this business more than27 years ago, it amazed me that the majority of people in thecosmetic business didn't actually know much at all about theskin, and how it works. At the time, cosmetic chemists had only

34 Ngfurai Health & Fitness

Considerhow all of

thesecontaminantswill affect the

health ofyour skin,your other

organs, andyour body.Then, askyourself,

is itworth it?

NHF: How did you go about acquiring theknowledge necessary to create theseproducts?Chae: I went back to school and studiedcosmetic chemistry and skin anatomy. I eventook a few classes in medical school just to beable participate in an autopsy so I couldunderstand the workings of the skin, and howvarious ingredients affected it. As a side noteabout autopsies, the only thing that reallyturned my stomach was the smell of theformaldehyde; which is used for embalming.Throughout this process, I have consultedwith some the world's most knowledgeableprofessionals in the medical field, as well asresearchers from the Universities of Montreal,Harvard, MIT, and in Alexandria, Egypt. I alsospent years searching the world over for thepurest, most natural raw materials available;suppliers and laboratories from far reachingplaces have collaborated with me to create askin care product line, Organic Essentials, outof a mission to develop products that createhealthier, more vital and youthful skin.

NHF: What makes the Organic Essentialproducts different than others?

Chae: I use the purest, organic materials from around theworld, like: Aloe Barbendensis Gel from the DominicanRepublic, which is a rich nutrient with healing properties andcondition agents to moisturize, tone and soothe; Vitamin E andother antioxidants to disarm pollution irritants and free radicalscavengers; Ahnfltia Concinna Sea Extract, a pure moisturizingcomplex from sea algae and phytoplankton, that helps toreplace vital skin nutrients such as proteins, minerals, amino-acids, and vitamins, and makes the skin feel smooth andelastic, not dry; Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract along withsome other natural ingredients to reduce the effects ofinflammation, and protect against the appearance of prematureskin aging.

We actually include the parts of a whole orange in one ofthe products, the Energizer Gel, to provide the skin with highlevels of vitamin C; it smells great! The products are alsopackaged in a UV protected, non-toxic plastic containers toreduce spoilage, and oxidation.

NHF: What about differences for Dry, Oily, and Normal skin?What is the best way to care for each skin type?Chae: I believe in an active, underactive (dry), or overactive

continued on p. 70

THE DIRTY DOZENSAre These Toxins in Your Skin Care Products?

Chemical Toxins

DETERGENTSsodium lauryl sulfatesodium laureth sulfatecocomido DEA and MEA

"ow They Harm Your Body

Strip the skin's precious oil mantle leaving itunprotected and exposed to hundreds ofchemicals, bacteria, viruses, dirt, contaminants& pollutants. DEA is a proven cancer causingingredient, specifically kidney and liver cancer.Detergents also scramble hormones and arecontributing to plummeting sperm counts.

Where You Will Find It

Many bar soaps, most facial cleansers, handand bath soaps, bubble bath, shampoos, liquiddish washing soaps, toothpastes, detergents(virtually any product that suds has at leastone detergent, even many 'natural' healthproducts).

PLASTICS:Mineral OilsPetroleum JellyPEGspropylene glycolbutylene glycolacrylic polymers

Coat the skin with a "plastic" layer, inhibitingits ability to breathe and eliminate wasteproducts. Common symptoms are blackheads,malnutrition and premature aging of the skin.Restricts normal cell development, skin willappear sallow, dull and lifeless.

Many foundations and moisturizers. Lip balms,nighttime skin treatment products, eyemoisturizing products, nail polishes, and nailcare products and hand lotions.

SOLVENTSIsopropyl alcohol, ie. SD40propylene glycol, butane propane & butyleneglycol

Some of these are strong enough to takebarnacles off the bottom of boats. Thesesolvents penetrate the skin's protective barrierand break down the inter-cellular mortar,causing the skin to be exposed to toxins, andto lose its elasticity.

Astringents, facial scrubs, toners, aftershaves, some cleansers, especially thosemarketed for "oily" skin, mouthwashes,permanent wave solutions, moisturizers anddish and clothes detergents.

SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCESFragranceperfumecologne

Alcohol, a typical ingredient in syntheticfragrance, can irritate the skin and strip awayits natural protection. It dries out the skin,stimulating oil glands to produce excess oiland wax to repair the damage.

Watch for synthetic fragrances in all cosmeticsand skin care products. They are commonlyused in body talc, perfumed hand lotions,body sprays and deodorants.

FORMALDEHYDE-DONNINGPRESERVATIVESDMD hydantoinpropane-1, 2-bromo-2-nitro, 3-diolimidazolidinyl ureaphenoxyethanolamyl acetate (neurotoxins)alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEs)diazolidinyl urea

Preservatives can release trace amounts offormaldehyde into the skin. Skin reactionsafter exposure are very common;formaldehyde can be irritating and allergycausing Formaldehyde is used in embalmingprocess.

Every cosmetics and skin care product haspreservatives. Be careful to check for theexistence of toxic preservatives. Naturalpreservatives are: grapefruit seed extract,potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, tocopherol(Vitamin E), retinyl (Vitamin A), and ascorbicacid(Vitamin C).

COLOR PIGMENTSFD&C plus pigment color numbers

Synthetic pigments contain heavy metal saltsand deposit toxins onto the skin, andeventually into the blood stream.

Hair dyes, eye shadows and other makeupproducts. Most skin and hair products.

RANCID OILS Most vegetable oils turn rancid very quickly,especially if they are not extracted with a coldprocess. When you take rancid oils, your skinpurges them. As the skin releases these oils,the sun activates them. This also causes yourown skin's oils to oxidate, producing lots offree radicals and creating the environment forskin cancer & melanoma.

Any product that is packaged in a semi-transparent, or nonopaque container.

OTHERN-Nitrosamines

In the 1970s, nitrosamine contamination, ofcooked bacon and other nitrate-treated meatsbecame a public health issue. The foodindustry, which is more strictly regulated thanthe cosmetics industry significantly loweredthe amount of nitrosamines in theseprocessed meats (hot dogs, bacon, etc.)Nitrosamine levels in cosmetics are now atdrastically higher levels than once found inprocessed meat. Nitosamines devitalize theskin, making it prone to acne, wrinkles, brownspots, moles, warts, skin tags, and other skinconditions.

Toothpaste, shampoo, sunscreen, body lotion,body talc, makeup, and hair dyes.

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(oily) classification system. The skin should be treated based on /row it is functioning,not the result or symptom. This way, you can use the appropriate products andtreatment schedule to match your skin's level of activity. Overactive skin, for example,produces too much oil; the typical person's reaction to this is to over-cleanse. Over-cleansing sends the wrong message to the glands which continue making more oil,and exacerbates the problem. With the Organic Essentials product line, you canchange how often and in what order you use the products so you can eventuallyachieve 'active' or ideal skin.

NHF. Are there any other recommendations you have for our readers?Chae: When you're selecting personal care products, carefully read the ingredientlabels, and compare them against a list of contaminants, (it's easiest to keep the guidepresented in this article with you in your purse, organizer, or wallet). Consider how allof these contaminants will affect the health of your skin, your other organs, and yourbody. Then, ask yourself, is it worth it? If enough consumers compare ingredients,products that contain harmful substances will eventually disappear from themarketplace. Then, we will truly know how anti-aging nature really can be. O

For more information on Linda Chae's Organic Essential line of skin care products or if youhave questions for Linda Chae call 1-888-303-1708 or visit www.freelifeonline.com e-mail:

skincarel 01 @hotmail.com

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