Sample file - Wargame Vaultwatermark.wargamevault.com/pdf_previews/101593-sample.pdf · 2018. 4....

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Transcript of Sample file - Wargame Vaultwatermark.wargamevault.com/pdf_previews/101593-sample.pdf · 2018. 4....

Page 1: Sample file - Wargame Vaultwatermark.wargamevault.com/pdf_previews/101593-sample.pdf · 2018. 4. 28. · out there, we, of Stoelzel’s Structures, bring you our Modular Urban Center

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Our city is continuing to grow and stretch out before our eyes. To help all of you real estate speculators out there, we, of Stoelzel’s Structures, bring you our Modular Urban Center Kit or M.U.C.K. for short.

REAL ESTATE SECTION

This kit includes 6 different building styles, with two brick color options for each. Each three-floor wall option comes in three widths (4.5, 6 and 9 inches), with each of the 14 floor options sized for four of the common wall combinations (4.5 x 6, 6 X 6, 4.5 X 9 and 6 x 9). There are several different options for store fronts on the ground floor, choose a simpler option with the doors and windows printed directly onto the walls, or use our store front inserts to add recessed door, and a wood store façade with various color options. If that wasn’t enough, we provided nearly 50 pages of bits and decorations to customize you buildings.

Like our other products, the M.U.C.K. is designed with access to the building’s interior in mind. Build your modular urban units in one of two styles. The three quarter building is built leaving the back of the building off and is perfect for buildings lying on the edge of your gaming table…. er… the edge of your city. Or…. build the lift out building, where the second and third floors are removable from the top. Instructions are provided for both. Plan your buildings the way YOU like (just make sure to get the proper permits).

Still not convinced, fine, you’ve twisted my arm. I’ll throw in a nice dice roller building topper to throw on top of your buildings. Simply drop your dice in the top, they come out the side and land in a nice little containment area, no harm, no foul, no knocked over miniatures, no eye injuries.

12 different building styles

What M.U.C.K offers you!

4 different building sizes

Customizable shop fronts

Dice roller building topper

More than 250 pages of images

Warning: Significant others and Parental units are likely to be upset by leaving M.U.C.K on the kitchen table.

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Instructions Page 5

Table of Contents

Dice Roller Building Topper Page 20

Building Number 1 Page 28

Building Number 2 Page 49

Building Number 3 Page 70

Building Number 4 Page 91

Building Number 5 Page 112

Building Number 6 Page 133

Building Blanks Page 154

Floors Page 165

Shop Front Inserts Page 222

Decorations and Bits Page 257

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Build instructions: M.U.C.K

All images and text contained within this project are copyright of Carl R. Stoelzel. Permission is granted to print copies of this to build only your own projects. Do not distribute digital copies in whole or in part without the express written permission of the copyright holder.

Legal

Given a baseline level of difficulty as simple folded cardstock square buildings with at most 6 folds and three glue tabs, than this model is of intermediate difficulty. It was designed to be made primarily of foam core, and often requires the modeler to line up pieces of artwork on both sides. A single building from this modular kit model will take about one hour or less to build.

Forward

1 large sheet of 5 mm thick foamcore

Materials

Thin Cardstock, a used cereal box should be about enough

A straight edge (metal rule is preferable)

A sharp blade (for example an X-acto knife)

Gluegun and glue sticks

Cyanoacrylate (Crazy Glue)

Full sheet label paper (Optional)

Spray mount and fancy printing paper(Optional)

A Rabbet cutter (optional)

A small (~5mm) chiseling blade (optional)

Black magic marker (optional)

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Techniques Mounting

Most pieces of this building have images for the front and back of the foam core support structure. As such, great care should be taken when aligning the pieces. There are two options available to mount the artwork onto the foamcore.

The first option is to print out all the art files onto full sheet label paper. This provides a very simple assembly: peel the back and stick. However, the quality of full sheet labels can be hit or miss, and, in the worst cases, can lead to peeling terrain.

The second option is to use an aerosol glue like spray mount or photo mount. Generally these come in two types, a permanent fix and a temporary fix which lets you take the pictures back off later. The temporary fix glue is good if you don’t trust your ability to align the two sides, but like the label paper CAN lead to peeling terrain down the road. It should be noted that both of these sprays is that they can be messy and smelly. Please follow all directions on product chosen.

Rabbeting

Sections which need rabbeting are indicated in the pictures by large blue boxes.

Making a rabbet on one of the pieces of foam, allows us to create a stronger joint when joining ends of two foamcore pieces. This is accomplished by creating a slot or grove to receive the edge of the other foam core piece. This ensures that the seam of the joint is surrounded on three sides. Rabbeting your corners and joints also helps hide exposed edges of foam.

A rabbet joint is made by cutting only partially through a piece of foam core while leaving the opposite side of card stock backing still intact. One must be careful not to cut all the way through, as this could ruin the images on the other side, and also make the piece un-useable.

T intersections where an end piece of foamcore butts up against another perpendicular piece of foamcore can be made stronger and smoother using an interior rabbet joint. These are a bit trickier, but not that difficult to do. An example can be seen here.

There are a lot of tools available online called foamcore rabbet cutters than can make doing rabbets somewhat easier for the modeler. These rabbet cutters fix the angle and depth of the cutting blade, thus preventing cut through. If you don’t have a rabbet you can do these same cuts with a simple blade and a little care.

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Build Instructions: Three- Quarter Building 1. You will first need to answer a few questions to determine what materials you need to print out.

First, you will need to pick out a building design and color. There are six buildings, with two colors each presented in this project.

Next, you will need to decide the dimensions of your building. There are four common dimensions found in the floor pages sections (Not that you couldn’t do the remaining size combinations with some alteration of the floors). Pick from either 4.5 x 6, 6 X 6, 4.5 X 9 or 6 x 9 inches.

For the three quarter building you will also need to identify which of these dimensions will be the front of your building, this will either be 4.5 inches, six inches or nine inches.

Are you going to build a simple flat front (which are provided already printed on building walls) or are you going to build a shop front insert)?

Once all of this is determined, you will need to print out two of each side interior and exterior, and one front interior and exterior (a total of six wall sections), and up to four floors of the appropriate type. If you are going to build a shop front insert you will need to pick a color, and size and print out that page. Read through the s

2. Mount the three exterior walls onto foamcore. Cut along the black outer line to remove. Flip the pieces over and mount the interior images for these walls on the reverse side. Take care to align the images properly.

3. The light blue boxes on the interior walls indicate areas that need rabbeting.

Cut along the side and top of the blue box without cutting all the way through. Using a chiseling blade or very carefully using a regular blade start to cut the foam block from the wall, working from the exposed bottom to the top. Gently pull away the foam as you work up.

Take a piece of scrap foamcore and make sure the 5mm thick piece fits into the rabbets you just made.

TIP: I’ve found that a flat head screwdriver with a 4-5 mm head makes a great chisel for this purpose.

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4. It is time to make the corner rabbets. These have not been marked on the images, so you will need to draw out the areas for rabbeting. For the three-quarter building, you will need to make two of these corner rabbets, one on each of the side walls, along the edge of building side facing the building front. Each of these rabbets is done on the interior side of the wall.

Flip the wall piece over so the interior side is facing upward. Take a long thin scrap of foamcore and make sure that one side of the foamcore has a straight cut. Lay the straight cut edge of the foamcore along the side edge of the piece you need to mark out. Make sure the scrap foamcore is flush with the edge and this will give you a five mm measure from the edge. Take a black marker or pen and draw along the edge to mark the area for the corner rabbet.

TIP: If you are going to be making a lot of buildings, I recommend making a small jig out of scraps of foam. All you need to do is have two layers of foam, one glued on top of the other, with the straight edge of the top layer extending millimeters past the straight edge of the bottom layer. This will give you a quick 5 mm ruler every time.

5. Optional modeling decisions. If you are going to install a shop front insert, remove the windows, or doors, now is the time to do so.

6. Using your glue gun, glue the sides to front by gluing in the corner rabbets. Hold the pieces together into a ninety degree bend until the glue dries/cools.

7. Mount the four floor sections you’ve selected onto 5 mm foamcore. Cut along the black outer line to remove.

8. Slip the four floor sections into the horizontally running rabbets found on the building walls.

9. Assemble any building decorations you want and attach them to your new Stoelzel’s Structures M.U.C.K building.

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Build Instructions: Lift-out Building 1. You will need to answer a few questions first to determine what materials you need to print out.

First, you will need to pick out building design and color. There are six buildings, with two colors each presented in this project.

Next, you will need to decide the dimensions of your building. There are common dimensions found in the floor pages sections (Not that you couldn’t do the remaining size combinations with some alteration of the floors). Pick from either 4.5 x 6, 6 X 6, 4.5 X 9 or 6 x 9 inches.

For the lift out building you will also need to identify which of these dimensions will be the front of your building, this will either be 4.5 inches, six inches or nine inches.

Are you going to build a simple flat front (which are provided already printed on building walls) or are you going to build a shop front insert).

Once all of this is determined, you will need to print out two of each side interior and exterior, and one front interior and exterior, and a building back interior and exterior (the same length as the front) (a total of eight wall sections), and up to four floors of the appropriate type. If you are going to build a shop front insert you will need to pick a color, and size and print out that page. Read through the shop front insert assembly instructions (provided later) before assembling.

2. Mount the four exterior walls onto foamcore. Cut along the black outer line to remove. Flip the pieces over and mount the interior images for these walls on the reverse side. Take care to align the images properly.

3. The light blue boxes on the interior walls normally indicate areas that need rabbeting. In the case of the lift-out building you will be ignoring these rabbets. In fact, you may wish to take your black magic marker, and color over these areas to help conceal them when the floors are in place.

4. It is time to make the corner rabbets. These have not been marked on the images, so you will need to draw out the areas for rabbeting. For the lift out building, you will need to make four of these corner rabbets, two on each of the side walls. Each of these rabbets is done on the interior side of the wall.

Flip the wall piece over so the interior side is facing upward. Take a long thin scrap of foamcore and make sure that one side of the foamcore has a straight cut. Lay the straight cut edge of the foamcore along the side edge of the piece you need to mark out. Make sure the scrap foamcore is flush with the edge and this will give you a five mm measure from the edge. Take a black marker or pen and draw along the edge to mark the area for the corner rabbet.

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Cut along the side and top of the blue box without cutting all the way through. Using a chiseling blade or very carefully using a regular blade start to cut the foam block from the wall, working from the exposed bottom to the top. Gently pull away the foam as you work up.

TIP : If you are going to be making a lot of buildings, I recommend making a small jig out of scraps of foam. All you need to do is have two layers of foam, one glued on top of the other, with the straight edge of the top layer extending millimeters past the straight edge of the bottom layer. This will give you a quick 5 mm ruler every time.

5. Optional modeling decisions. If you are going to install a shop front insert, remove the windows, or doors, now is the time to do so.

6. Using your glue gun, glue the sides to front by gluing in the corner rabbets. Hold the pieces together into a ninety degree bend until the glue dries/cools.

7. Mount the four floor sections you’ve selected onto 5 mm foamcore. Cut along the black outer line to remove. With the exception of the first floor, you will need to remove 5 mm from each side of the floors so that it fits into the interior of you building coming from the top. Test-fit and trim more if needed.

8. Slip the bottom floor section into the horizontally running rabbets found on the building walls.

9. Mount four 1st floor columns and 8 2nd-3rd floor columns onto card stock. Cut along the perimeter black line to remove. Fold along each black line 90 degrees with the images on the outside of the bends. Use the white tabs to glue to the opposing sides. This will form a rectangular cube.

Glue the four 1st floor columns in the first floor of you building along the interior wall.

Glue four of the 2nd-3rd floor columns to 2nd and 3rd floor flooring sections. You may wish to glue the 3rd floor to the top of the 2nd floor columns and the roof to the top of the third floor columns to make a singular block of floors to lift out of the top. Do NOT glue to the first floor columns.

10. Assemble any building decorations you want and attach them to your new Stoelzel’s Structures M.U.C.K building.

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Build Instructions: Store Front insert assembly 1. You will need to print out 1 store front insert of either 4.5 inches or 6 inches wide, depending on the width of the building you are building. Mount both the insert and door for the insert onto cardstock. Cut along the black outer line to remove.

2. Cut out the large white square where the door insert will fit. Be sure to remove the small on the bottom that is outlined, and adjacent to this square. If you wish to cut out the windows, do so at this time.

3. Fold along the long black lines separating the front/backs from the bottom each ninety degrees so that the front and back images are on the outside of the bends. Fold the white squares on the sides inward and attach the white tabs to the inside of the front.

4. If you are installing the window inserts, fold them around to form a square with the images on the inside. Use the small white tab to affix to the opposite side.

Fold the large white tabs ninety degrees outward. Slide the window insert into the store front insert and position in between the two open windows. Glue in place.

5 Take the door insert, and fold along the black lines separating the door from the angled side, just along the edge of the white wood trim (follow the line down to the corners at the bottom). Fold the bottom concrete upward 90 degrees and fold the white tabs at the bottom upward. Glue these small tabs under the concrete section. Fold the long white tabs outward. Fold the long horizontal section of concrete 90 degrees downward. Slide the door insert up into the hole of the shop front insert. Glue in place.

6. Locate the building front you wish to mount the insert into. Place the insert on top of the building front where you wish to install the insert with the smaller, inner portion of the insert touching the building. Trace around the insert with a marker. Cut along your line to remove a block of foamcore from the building frontage. For the 4.5 inch insert this should be a 2 by 4 inch hole, and for the 6.4 inch insert, this should be a 2 by 5.5 inch hole centered on the building’s lowest floor.

Place the shop front insert into the hole made in the building front. Gluing in place is optional if you want to remove the piece later for gaming access.

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Build Instructions: Dice Rolling Building Topper

List of parts

A Outer Wall, Front and side B Outer Wall, Back and side C Inner Wall, Front and side D Inner Wall, Back and side E Ground Floor F Slopped Floor, Top G Slopped Floor, Middle H Slopped Floor, Bottom I Perimeter Wall, long, inner

J Perimeter Wall, long, inner K Perimeter Wall, long, outer L Perimeter Wall, long, outer M Perimeter Wall, short, inner N Perimeter Wall, short, inner O Perimeter Wall, short, outer P Perimeter Wall, short, outer Q Perimeter wall topper R Tower topper

1. Mount the tower outer walls (Pieces and B), the floor pieces (Pieces E, F,G, and H) onto foamcore. Cut along the black outer lines to remove.

2. Flip the tower outer walls (Pieces A and B) over and mount the tower inner wall pieces (C and D respectively) on the reverse side. Take great care to align the images.

3. On each inner wall, there are small blue boxes in the middle of the first floor that indicates an internal rabbet. These are a bit trickier. Cut along the side and top of the blue box without cutting all the way through. Using a chiseling blade or very carefully using a regular blade start to cut the foam block from the wall, working from the exposed bottom to the top. Gently pull away the foam as you work up.

On the front wall, cut out and remove the white box from the lower portion of the wall.

4. Along the middle of the inner wall, there is a long rabbet that you made in step 2, with a long black box to the side. On the reverse of this, there is a black line that runs vertically. Fold along this vertical line 90 degrees so that outer images are on the outside of this bend.

Use your glue gun in the vertical rabbet on the interior side, and re-bend the wall. Hold the wall into a 90 degree bend until the glue dries/cools.

5. Take the lower floor piece (piece H). You will notice a thick black border on one edge of the piece. This is the edge that will slip into the rabbet on the back wall. Flip the piece over to the uncovered card side, and on the notched side, you will want to rabbet out a 1 cm groove. This will allow the fit better and flat-er through the door at the bottom of the tower.

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6. Take the 3 tower floor pieces (F,G and H) and test fit them into the angled rabbets found on the interior of the tower wall pieces. Start with one tower wall half, place all the floors into it, and then fit the other tower wall half. Once you are happy with the fit, glue the two tower wall halves (A/C and B/D) together, with the interior floors in place.

7. Take the ground floor piece and rabbet out the blue perimeter boxes.

8. Mount the exterior images for the perimeter walls (K,L,O and P ) on foamcore. Cut along the black outer lines to remove. Flip the pieces over and mount the interior images (I, J, M, and N) for the perimeter walls on the reverse sides.

9. Rabbet the blue boxes along the long perimeter wall interiors

10. Test fit the four perimeter walls around the ground floor section. Glue each wall to the ground floor, and to each other.

11. Test fit the dice tower into the small square rabbet on the ground floor. Once you are happy with the fit, glue in place.

12. Mount the trim piece / toppers onto cardstock. Cut along the black outer line to remove. Glue on top of the tower and the perimeter to conceal the exposed foam edge.

13. Test the dice roller by dropping dice in the top opening and collecting them out of the dice catch area on the side. Place on top of one of your Stoelzel’s structures M.U.C.K buildings.

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Build Instructions: Additional bits of decoration Sidewalks. You will need to print out 1 sheet of sidewalks. I usually mount these straight onto cardstock and then also onto foam, but the initial cardstock mounting is entirely optional. Measure out the frontage of the shop you want to trim with sidewalks, and locate a piece of foamcore that size, and about ½ inch deeper than needed. If you are using a sidewalk corner, place the sidewalk piece on the foam and trace out the rounded corner, and then cut that piece of foamcore away. Then fold the sidewalk edges down 90 degrees. Glue on top of the foam core, and glue the sides down. This should leave about a ½ inch of exposed foamcore on the back of the sidewalk. Treat this area as a rabbet, and remove the top layer of card and foam. IF you are using a corner, remove the underside of card in the area of the exposed foam behind the corner. Use this rabbet to glue under the front of your building. If you are using cornered pieces, do each side independently to keep it simple.

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Roof ventilation exhaust

The square in the middle of the image is the bottom of the unit. Fold ninety degrees along each of the lines separating the bottom from the sides. Fold all the white tabs inward, and glue the four lowest white tabs under the adjacent side. Gently roll the top of the ventilation forward and glue the small tabs in place. Finally, glue the long white tab on the end under the front of the unit.

Power Transformers

Transformers are a simple cube once assembled. Fold along the four black lines that separate the top of the transformer (found in the middle) from the other sides/top/bottom. Then fold the four white tabs ninety degrees so that they tuck under the sides of the table. Put a drop of glue on the white tabs to permanently fix in place.

Column sections

Columns are rectangular cubes once assembled. Fold along the black lines between the four sides 90 degrees to bring them together, use the tab to glue together. Fold the small square top and bottoms over 90 degrees to over the opening and attach with the white tab.

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Pallets

Pallets are a simple flat cube once assembled. Fold along the four black lines that separate the top of the pallet (found in the middle) from the other sides. Fold the bottom under top and attach the sides to the white tabs with glue.

Garbage Pick-up

Garbage pickups are rectangular cubes once assembled. Fold along the four black lines that separate the sides of the pickup (found in the middle) and those that separate the top and bottom from the sides. Fold along the lines separating the white tabs. Attach the sides to the tabs with glue.

Bus Stop

Begin by folding along the line separating the inside from the outside (indicated by yellow). Fold along the vertical black lines separating the sides, 90 degrees each to form a rectangular cube. Glue the white tab to the adjacent side to hold the form. Fold the roof sections inward, folding along the blue lines in the image right. Use the tabs to glue the roof structure together.

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Awnings

Begin by folding along the line separating the inside from the outside (indicated by yellow). Fold along the vertical black lines separating the sides, 90 degrees each to form a wedge. Fold the lowest portion (blue line) downward. Fold the tabs inward, and glue under the flat front section. Fold the back tabs inward and glue to the building front.

Front Crowns

Building crowns are rectangular if viewed from above, and basically assembly like the other cube shaped items. Fold along the black lines that separate edges from the front/back and tabs 90 degrees each to form the object. Glue the tabs to the adjacent sides.

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Building Facades

These Facades are provided to give a bit of depth and structure along the roof line. They will form a long tube like structure once assembled, and can be glued directly to the building. Fold along the long black horizontal lines to form the shape seen on the side pieces, and use the white tab to glue form together. Fold the sides inward and glue to the small white tabs.

Roof Top Exits

Ignoring the top, the roof top exit is basically a rectangular cube and is fairly easy to assemble. Fold along the four black lines that separate the sides of the roof top exit and those that separate the sides from the white tabs. Attach the sides with the large tab.

Fold the roof in half and glue on top to the white tabs facing inward.

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Sky Light boxes

A skylight box will form a rectangular cube like shape with a pyramid shape on top.

You will need to make the 30 degree folds indicated by the blue lines to bring this shape together. Fold along the red lines indicated right to bring the tabs inward.

Start by forming the pyramid shape by bring the four central triangles together, and attaching the white tab to the adjacent long triangle. Next, form the sides by gluing the white tabs to the inside of adjacent side pieces.

Water Tower

The water tower comes in three pieces, the bottom, the sides, and the top. The top is a simple cone that is formed by rolling the edges together so that you can attach the white tab to the adjacent edge.

The side is formed in a similar manner, but will be a cylinder once completed. Then fold the white tabs on the sides inward, and glue the top and bottom piece to these tabs.

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DICE ROLLER

BUILDING TOPPER

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