Lets GowithRYANAIRISSUE 07 DUBLIN OCTOBER 2012TELL US WHERE YOURE GOING!Lets Go with RYANAIRTAKE ME WITH YOU OCTOBER 2012TELL US WHERE YOURE GOING!LETSGOMAG.COMLG007_01_Cover.indd 1 12/09/2012 16:05Henrik has designed some of the worlds most iconic sports cars, yet hes always believed that high per-formance could be eco-friendly. Now it is, thanks to his Electric Vehicle extended range (EVer) luxury car, the Karma. At Maurice Lacroix, we share Henriks innovative spirit creating our unique Swiss movements and award-winning designs by hand. Because true success only comes when you follow your convictions.For more information visit www.MauriceLacroix.comPontos ChronographeHenrik Fisker, Founder of Fisker Automotive and designer of the KarmaFOLLOW YOURCONVICTIONSTHE WORLDS FIRST ELECTRIC SPORTS CAR WITH EXTENDED RANGE WAS JUST A DREAM. UNTIL I CREATED IT.PT6008 SS002 332Nok25.950,Sek29.950:Inc. NatobandSVERIGE www.optura.se:ALINGSS:KLOCKMASTER ALINGSS GTEBORG: AUG. MAGNUSSONS EFTR AB KRISTIANSTAD: SDERBERGS UR & GULD LUND: NOVA UR & JUVEL MALM: KLOCKMASTER SDERGATAN AB NACKA: URSPECIALISTEN KA AB DKRA-VLA: KLOCKMASTER RYDBERGS UR VLA SKRHOLMEN: TIDPUNKTEN MATINI UR AB STOCKHOLM: BJRKEGRENS UR & OPTIK AB HOUSE OF EXCELLENCE STJRNURMAKARNA LILJEHOLMEN TROLLHTTAN: KLOCKMASTER TROLLHTTAN AB VLLINGBY: BYSTRMS UR ABNORGE www.optura.no:ARENDAL: MARCUSSEN UR OG SMYKKER AS HAUGESUND: URMAKER ERLAND AS ORKANGER: ORKANGER UR OG GULL AS OSLO: PER CHRISTENSEN AS, PALEET DAVID ANDERSEN, KARL JOHAN URMAKER ALF LIE TIDEMANN URMAKERMESTER PORSGRUNN: SAASTAD UR-OPTIKK AS SANDNES: JRGEN OTTEREN AS STAVANGER: JRGEN OTTEREN AS TNSBERG: AAS URMAKER TNSBERG URSENTER LESUND: CHRONO KARLSON ASNo.84316 Optura.indd 1 14/09/2012 16:303 BOOK NOW! GO TO RYANAIR.COM12325139Lets GowithRYANAIRThis monthStart hereSpotlight on DublinRight nowHotspots12 Inspiration for your next tripYou could go ballooning over Stockholm, visit the Bilbao Guggenheim, hunt for art by Slinkachu or tuck into a squid ink pasta dish in Italy 21 Creepy KicksHalloween ideas in Europe25 In 5 minutes Reinvent your look 33 5 of the best Places to see a werewolf38Tell me where to go! A Twier trip to Budapest42 Silly ScienceWoody Allen wordsearch 45 My City A locals Poitiers 21 Cool news and events in the places Ryanair ies to, plus more fun stu101 You tell us the places you rateCheck out the venues everyones talking about in Austria, Germany, Italy, Malta and Spain in our new section51 Your essential guide to the Irish capital Welcome To Dublin.......................................52CultureTake it all in ..................................54Check inWhere to stay ..............................56Eat outWhere to dine ..............................58NightlifeWhere to party ............................62MapHow to nd it all .........................65October 2012LG007_03_Contents_srg_rs.indd 3 12/09/2012 16:414 LETS GO WITH RYANAIR LETS GO SHOPPING ONBOARD TODAYFlip the magazine over to browse the onboard shopping, from hot food to fragrances, available on your ight now.This month9081Warsaw 15From a club in a marmalade factory to its lm festival and museum of neon, heres your hit list of the best of Warsaw68Friends with benetsWho said Londoners arent friendly? We meet the locals keen to show you the UK capital A glass from the pastTravel from Porto up river into the heart of the Douro Valley visiting picturesque vineyards and drinking lots of ne port along the way100 Destination map Helping you to plan your next tripCafSave!ALLERGY ADVICEPlease note that food items sold onboard may contain traces of nutsFresh Food Please ask the crew for todays selection of freshly made sandwiches and hot mealsFresh Pastries2.50 Selection available All-day Breakfast Bap5.00Cereal & Milk1.50Sandwiches3.00 Selection availablePanini5.00 Cheese and Tomato or Ham and Cheese Premium Sandwiches4.50 Selection availablePepperoni Pizza5.00Cheeseburger5.00Hot Dish of the Day7.00 Selection available Steak Ciabatta7.00Chicken Tikka Meal5.00Ham & Cheese Croissant3.50Hot Meal DealBuy 2 bottles of Arts Wine......and get Salted Peanuts or Boxerchips for only 15.95 each 187ml 2.00 2.50LG007_03_Contents_srg_rs.indd 4 12/09/2012 16:42danish watch designzen philosophymore details and full collection at www.obaku.comObaku Denmark is represented in more than 60 countries worldwide. No.84448 Comtech Watches.indd 1 17/09/2012 14:536 LETS GO WITH RYANAIR RYANAIR WILL CARRY OVER 79M PASSENGERS this year, which is why IATA ranks us as the worlds favourite airline operating 300 aircra on 1,500 routes, connecting over 170 destinations and delivering Europes No 1 customer service, with the lowest fares, no fuel surcharges, the most on-time ights and the fewest cancellations and mishandled bags.One of our UK passengers recently complained about the level of our 60/60 boarding card reissue fee aer failing as she agreed she would to pre-print her boarding card for her return ight from Alicante. Our message to all of our passengers is simple: if you dont wish to pay the boarding card reissue fee, then please, please ensure that you check-in online and pre-print your boarding card before you travel to your departing airport, as over 99.98% of our passengers already do.Passengers can now book Ryanairs lowest fares, manage their booking and stay in touch with latest Ryanair news, no maer where you are, by downloading our new iPhone/iPad app, for just 3 from the App Store, which follows the recently launched SMS update service for passengers who experience very rare delays of over 90 minutes so be sure to enter your mobile number the next time you book.Our beautiful cabin crew strike a pose in our 2013 Ryanair Cabin Crew Charity Calendar, to be unveiled this month. Our calendars have raised over 500,000 for charity since 2008 and we received hundreds of applications from charities across Europe hoping to be selected as our 2013 partner. We hope to raise 100,000 again this year, so look out for the 2013 calendar on sale soon.Speaking of sales, Ryanairs winter schedule is now available on www.ryanair.com with unbeatable fares and lots of great new routes, especially to/from Poland and Hungary. Look out for our Fly to Win scratchcards which are on sale on your ight, where cash, vouchers and cars can all be won, as well as the chance to scoop a cool 1 million, for a stake of just 2.Thank you for ying with Ryanair, Europes only ultra low fares airlineThanks for ying with Ryanair, were delighted to welcome you onboard!Michael OLearyChief ExecutiveMichael OLearyWelcome aboard Welcome aboardOUR NEW APP IS A GREAT WAY TO BOOK AND MANAGE YOUR JOURNEY LG007_06_welcome_rs.indd 6 12/09/2012 16:43The perfect travel partnerPut your money on it.Spend it wherever you see the Visa sign.Then top it up again. R. Raphael & Sons plc, trading as Raphaels Bank, is authorized by the Financial Services Authority in the UK and is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland for conduct of business rules. ROI residents and over 16s only. Email required. Charges, limits and restrictions apply. Terms and conditions apply. See www.o2money.ieVisit any O2 store or o2money.ieNo.84376 O2.indd 1 17/09/2012 13:26No.75008 Felix Solis.indd 1 04/05/2012 14:039 BOOK NOW! GO TO RYANAIR.COMFrom the Editor And back in August we asked you to follow us on Twier (@helloletsgo) and tell us your top holiday song to have a chance to win an amazing Braven portable speaker. We had loads of responses but there could only be three winners and those picked out of a hat at random are @james_mont who chose Under The Boardwalk by Bruce Willis; @cakeysaz who chose Summertime by Jazzy Je and the Fresh Prince; and @novasilence who chose California Gurls by Katy Perry great picks I reckon. Thanks for taking part, your Braven speakers are on their way. For more super cool prize draws see page 14 and page 28 or visit letsgo-mag.com/competitions for details on what you can win and how to enter. Of course great holiday songs must be listened to on great holidays and where beer to listen than our featured destinations this month. Our Ryanair hometown of Dublin is packed with top things to do and see (page 51), we round-up 15 of the best things to do in Warsaw (page 81), and if drinking, eating and gorgeous scenery rock your boat as they do mine, read all about my trip to the Douro Valley and port wine on page 90.And check out our new Hotspots section (page 103) wrien by you telling us your top places to eat, drink, stay and see across Europe. Did we miss anywhere? What should we denitely know about? Tell us via Twier (@helloletsgo), on our Facebook page (letsgomag) or contribute directly on our website at letsgo-mag.com/contribute and get your name in print!EDITORIALEDITOR & COPUBLISHER RAMSAY SHORT ramsay. short@ink-global. comASSOCIATE EDITOR SOPHY GRIMSHAWSUB EDITOR JAMES WILLIAMS EDITORIAL INTERNS DANIELLE GROGAN,EMILY RAYARTART DIRECTOR MAT WIGGINSmat.wiggins@ink-global. comPICTURE EDITOR REGINA WOLEKLETSGOMAG.COMWEBMASTER SAL LABABIDI PRODUCTIONMANAGER ANA VAZQUEZPREPRESS ROB BIDWELLLOGISTICS goferslogistics. comADVERTISINGADVERTISING MANAGER PR SVLASpar. svalas@ink-global. comTEL. +44 (0)20 7613 6964 SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVESJOSEPH ADAJE, ANDY GIBSON, GERARD KELLY, DARREN PATERNOSTER, CHARLENE DOMELIER, MINDAUGAS SAPARNIS IRELAND SALES REP MARY KERSHAW mary. kershaw@kershawgroup. co.ukRYANAIRBRAND MANAGER AOIFE GREENEINKCEO JEFFREY OROURKECHIEF OPERATING OFFICER HUGH GODSALPUBLISHING DIRECTOR SIMON LESLIEEXEC CREATIVE DIRECTOR MICHAEL KEATINGDESIGN DIRECTOR JULIA MURRAYMARKETING DIRECTOR JAMES HARRISONPublished on behalf of Ryanair by Ink. All correspondence and advertising enquiries should be addressed to Ink, 141-143 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JE, tel. +44 (0)20 7613 9777, ink-global.comLets GowithRYANAIRRamsay ShortEditor & Co-Publishertwitter.com/ramsayshortCOVER ILLUSTRATION MATT HERRING @ DEBUTARTMy fave song to listen to on holiday is James Browns I Feel Good for obvious reasons Lets GowithRYANAIRTELL USWHEREYOUREGOING!TAKE ME WITH YOUOCTOBER 2012LETSGOMAG.COMLG007_09_EdsLetter.indd 9 12/09/2012 16:43No.83316 Marmot Mountain Europe GmbH.indd 1 15/08/2012 15:5711 BOOK NOW! GO TO RYANAIR.COMContributorsWE COULDNT HAVE MADE THIS WITHOUT YOU Some of the many people who helped put our October issue togetherJAMES WILLIAMSIts such a small city but it packs in so much, says our writer James of his trip to Dublin for our cover story. And Temple Bar is a sort of unocial tribute to U2, if you take the pub karaoke singers into account. A travel writer for the likes of Cond Nast Traveller and The Guardian, James enjoys nding out about new trends, penning guides and sharing a pint with the locals where possible. Read all about Dublin on page 51.CHRIS MADDENManchester-based illustrator Chris had reason to be particularly keen to illustrate werewolves for this issue (see page 33 for tips on where in Europe to spot the mythical beasts well, apparently). I have a huge love aair with monster movies and sci- and cinema plays a big part in inuencing the content of my work, says Chris. And I love the 1941 Universal movie The Wolfman in particular!ALEXANDER SHORTTravel and timelapse photographer Alex, doesnt like leaving his tripod behind when visiting a new city lest time elapse in an aesthetically pleasing manner which it usually does. So the tripod came with him to the vineyards of the Douro Valley and Porto in Portugal, and helped capture the magical beauty of the place. See page 90 and see more of Alexs work atalexandershort.netBe a part of it tell us where youre going!We want to know whats happening where you are, what you think of our magazine and what youd like to see in it. So get in touch with us below! WHAT YOU TOLD US Visit our websiteletsgo-mag.comSend us an emailhello@letsgo-mag.comFollow us on Twier@helloletsgoLike us on Facebookfacebook.com/letsgomagDisclaimer: Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from the publisher. Opinions expressed in Lets Go with Ryanair are not necessarily those of Ryanair.When you see a buon get involvedPiyathip Phimwongenjoyed a Stockholm balloon ride , p13 Rob Cook has a favourite building in Bilbao, p17Luca Zizzari suggests a pasta dish with a difference, p19Matthew Workman has a tip for anyone seeing the sights of Budapest, p38Karen Wheeler recommends some hidden delights in Poitiers, p45Sophie Pollak suggests a hotel in Vienna, p103Richard Windischbacher has a favourite part of Graz to tell you about, p103Pete McEvoy knows where to drink in Frankfurt, p105Rebecca Forman found a cool and quirky flea market in Berlin, p105@burnsofast recommends a cheap and cheerful hotel in Matera, p107Justin Wilson has a favourite restaurant in Milan, p107Joseph Vella a enjoyed discovering a traditional Maltese restaurant in Valletta, p109@southernspain suggests a hot bar in Marbella, p111LG007_11_Contribs.indd 11 12/09/2012 16:4312 LETS GO WITH RYANAIR PHOTO GETTYEVER TRIED ?BALLOONING, STOCKHOLM, SWEDENTaking a hot air balloon trip anywhere is fun, but very few major cities allow balloons in their skies. Stockholm does, however, and the urban views are spectacularFLY RYANAIR TO STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA AND VSTERS) Inspiration for your next tripStarthereInspiration for your next trip LG007_12_StartHere_c.indd 12 10/09/2012 14:3413 BOOK NOW! GO TO RYANAIR.COMTHEY SAY Once in the air the wind carries you slowly over Stockholm and itsbeautiful surroundings, ying up to 1,000m altitude. According to ancient tradition, all must be baptised aer landing during a ceremony with a glass of bubbly. Upp & Ner offers balloon rides from 144pp for groups and 266pp for a private two-person trip, uppner.seYOU SAY My dream was to y in a hot air balloon over Stockholm and it was truly incredible. The crew were friendly, we felt totally safe, and the Champagne helped too!Piyathip Phimwong, via emailLG007_12_StartHere_c.indd 13 10/09/2012 14:3414 LETS GO WITH RYANAIR Start herePHOTO THE LAST RESORT WANDSWORTH, LONDON, UK, 2010LG007_12_StartHere_c.indd 14 10/09/2012 14:3415 BOOK NOW! GO TO RYANAIR.COMEVER SEEN ?ART BY SLINKACHULONDON, UKFLY RYANAIR TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED)UK street artist Slinkachu uses tiny models to comment on global issues, installing them in unexpected locations in cities around the worldWhat have you seen? Tell us! facebook.com/letsgomagLets GowithRYANAIRWE SAY See Slinkachus new exhibition Global Model Village at Londons Andipa Gallery until 27 October.162 Walton Street, tel. +44 (0) 207 589 2371,andipa.comletsgo-mag.comTHEY SAY In Paris or London people tend to ignore me as I am laid in the street trying to take photos of tiny models in a drain. In Marrakesh, I aracted a bit of a crowd. It was a lot harder to shoot there! Slinkachu, via emailWere giving away copies of Slinkachus latest book Global Model Village. Visit letsgo-mag.com/competitions for details!LG007_12_StartHere_c.indd 15 10/09/2012 14:3516 LETS GO WITH RYANAIR Start hereThis iconic museum is a work of art in itself EVER BEEN ?GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, BILBAO, SPAINFLY RYANAIR TO BILBAOLG007_12_StartHere_c.indd 16 12/09/2012 16:3717 BOOK NOW! GO TO RYANAIR.COMTHEY SAY Opened in September 1997, Museo Guggenheim lied modern architecture and Bilbao into the 21st century It boosted the citys already inspired regeneration, stimulated further development and placed Bilbao rmly in the world art and tourism spotlight.Lonely PlanetBeen somewhere brilliant? Share your thoughts and photos hello@letsgo-mag.comYOU SAYThis place is something else and has an out-of-this-world feel. Dont worry if you cant go to space, go here instead!Rob Cook, London, via FacebookLG007_12_StartHere_c.indd 17 10/09/2012 14:35No.72084 EC Power.indd 1 08/05/2012 10:2719 BOOK NOW! GO TO RYANAIR.COMEVER TASTED ?SPAGHETTI AL NERO DI SEPPIA, VENICE, ITALYTasted something amazing? Share it! @helloletsgoFLY RYANAIR TO VENICE (TREVISO)Itll make your tongue black but this delicious culesh or squid ink linguine is a must-order when in Italy Lets GowithRYANAIRWE SAY Squid ink adds both a sea avour and a deep black colour to fresh pasta. We love it! And our favourite spot to eat it is the Traoria alla Rivea on Salizzada San Provolo in Venice. letsgo-mag.comYOU SAY This spag with its tasty squid ink sauce is not only good to look at but also delicious to dive into. Luca Zizzari, via facebookPHOTO GETTYLG007_12_StartHere_c.indd 19 10/09/2012 14:35Daysof t ,SILK and CLASSIC ar er egi st er ed t r ademar ks ofDaysof tLi mi t ed( Ref1- day Acuvue Moi stf r om Specsaver s)swi t chi ng t o daysof tcan save you up t o 204 peryearUK desi gn and manuf act ur eUni que r ound-edge l ens f orenhanced comf or tUV i nhi bi t or430+ mi l l i on l enses sol d vi a opt i ci ans and onl i ne Fast ,l et t erbox f r i endl y del i ver yEnvi r onment al l y f r i endl y packagi ngPer sonalonl i ne cust omercar e and opt i ci an suppor tNo hassl e money back guar ant ee,and. . .no mor e l ens cl eani ng. . .2 f r esh l enses ever y day f orunder40p del i ver ed+25p p&p perboxmi n.or der2 boxesperbox 32 l enses5. 99No.84053 Prescription Logistics.indd 1 11/09/2012 11:2521 BOOK NOW! GO TO RYANAIR.COMRightnowWhat, where and when...WORDS MIKE PEAKE ILLUSTRATION INFOMEN @ DEBUTART1 | GOOD MOANINGDalhousie Castle near Edinburgh is thought to be one of Scotlands most haunted places. Immerse yourself in tales like that of Lady Catherine, whose 500-year-old ghost is said to wander the halls. Its a luxury hotel too, so ideal for a scary stay. dalhousiecastle.co.ukFLY RYANAIR TO EDINBURGH 2 | HANGING AROUNDExtremis is a ride like no other at macabre attraction The London Dungeon. After hearing your death sentence, you are slowly elevated by the hangman, ready for that final drop. the-dungeons.co.ukFLY RYANAIR TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) 3 | DEAD CENTREAt 44ha, Pre-Lachaise cemetery is the largest in central Paris. Its also the final resting place of The Doors singer Jim Morrison, French warbler dith Piaf and literary great Oscar Wilde.pere-lachaise.comFLY RYANAIR TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND VATRY) 4 | SPINETINGLINGVisit the Capuchin Crypt at the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini in Rome and you can see the bones of 4,000 friars. Macabre it may be, but the monks died naturally and the display is simply meant to remind people just how brief life is.FLY RYANAIR TO ROME (CIAMPINO AND FIUMICINO)Happy Hallo-daysCREEPY KICKSCelebrate Halloween this year by taking a tour of Europes spookiest destinations7 | NORDIC NASTIESThe streets around Oslos Akershus Fortress are said to be haunted by several ghosts, including the big black dog Malcanisten, and a horse, the sighting of which is said to end in death before the year is out. See them on a ghost tour. oslowalks.noFLY RYANAIR TO OSLO (RYGGE AND TORP)6 | TILL DEATH US DO PARTPassing number 16 Rataskaevu Street in Estonias gloriously gothic capital, Tallinn, is always a spine-tingler. It is here, legend has it, that a mysterious man hired out the top floor for a private gathering hundreds of years ago. The following day, a servant at the property became ill and died, saying he had peered in and witnessed the Devils wedding party.FLY RYANAIR TO TALLINN5 | VLAD TO MEET YOU Marketed as Draculas Castle and admittedly rather spooky, Bran Castle in the Romanian region of Transylvania has been used in countless horror films. It has links to the dreaded Vlad the Impaler, whose bloodthirsty exploits inspired Bram Stokers novel.FLY RYANAIR TO CONSTANTA2345167LG007_21_RNOpener_RS_srg.indd 1 10/09/2012 14:4222 LETS GO WITH RYANAIR PHOTO REUTERSBEARDY BEATS INDIE FESTIVAL FEVER1-3 November, Paris, FranceBoasting a lip-smacking line-up which will make die-hard indie fans light-headed Grizzly Bear, The Walkmen, M83 and the latest next big thing in the pseudo-pop world, Jessie Ware (pictured) this is a new music festival to fall head over heels in love with. Only a year old and curated by US music website Pitchfork, it takes place at the Grande Halle de la Villette. pitchfork.comFLY RYANAIR TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND VATRY)Right now VIENNA | PARIS | EAST MIDLANDSWhats happening near you? facebook.com/letsgomagFeline funCAFE THATS COOL FOR CATSVienna, AustriaTwo laes, a slice of chocolate cake, and a cuddle with Momo please. Thats a typical order at Viennas feline-friendly Cafe Neko (5 Blumenstockgasse, tel. +43 (0)1 512 1466), whose owner introduced the concept of cats and coee long-popular in her native Japan to Austria earlier this year. Pet-less patrons can tickle and stroke the resident moggies, named Sonja, Thomas, Moritz, Luca and Momo, who all come from a local shelter. The purr-fect (sorry) relaxing antidote to that coee buzz. Miaow!cafeneko.atFLY RYANAIR TO BRATISLAVA (VIENNA)YOU SAYPitchfork pulls together a fab line-up in one of the coolest cities on the planet. Its a great combo and Im already booking my ight.James Drury, via FacebookYOU SAY God do I want to go for a cat cafe or what! @lerrymaru, via TwitterWHO SOLD ALL THE PIES?GET YOUR FILLMelton Mowbray, UKHeard the one about the pork pie that walked into a bar? The barman says: Sorry, we dont serve food in here. Boom boom! But seriously, if you love the combo of freshly seasoned pork and pastry, head to the country town of Melton Mowbray. Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe (established 1851) shifts a staggering 4,000 hand-raised pork pies a week. Its so popular, even Prince Charles has paid a visit! porkpie.co.ukFLY RYANAIR TO EAST MIDLANDSLG007_22-47_RightNow_rs_srg.indd 22 10/09/2012 15:37Your future as a pilotcould start here!www.pilot.noThe complete integrated pilot training course can kick-start your career in international aviation. Our two-year tra|n|ng course comb|nes theoret|ca| study and pract|ca| f|ght tra|n|ng at our top modern f|ght schoo| |n Norway. You`|| |earn us|ng the |atest techno|ogy, |nc|ud|ng a state-of-the-art Boe|ng 737 f|ght s|mu|ator. lt`s the |dea| way to |aunch your p||ot career.Take our 'p||ot test` at www.pilot.no to fnd out |f you`ve got what |t takes.Contact us:Tlf: (+47) 97 05 68 40E-post: post@pilot.noHangarve|en 13, 3241 SandefjordNorwayTakethe pilot testat pilot.noCourses start in January and August 2013No.84415 Pilot Flyskole.indd 1 17/09/2012 10:54COMFORT HOTEL LTVilnius, Lithuania s www.comforthotel.lt \||r|u | larou lor a W|o|e |o||a |||r, ea||] urred up |r ||e |rp|e Word 'coz]. A v|orar| r|olou|reardp|eaurera|e\||r|u perlec| lor, We||, ou|re ard p|eaure.Corlor| lo|e| lT | |a||ored |o l|| ]our reed, W|a| ever ||e] are.