Ruperra Study

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January 1, 2008 RUPERRA CASTLE Benjamin Hale Page 1

Transcript of Ruperra Study

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Introduction

Ruperra Castle was built by Sir Thomas Morgan in 1626, one of the most powerful men in Wales at that

time, as steward to the Earl of Pembroke. As Surveyor of the Wood to King James I, he had been knighted

in 1623. The revenue from these occupations, together with a favourable marriage, enabled him to complete

the building of his house at Ruperra,

When King Charles visited Ruperra in 1645 he stayed from 26th -29th July, longer than at Tredegar House

or Llancaiach Fawr prominent houses of lower Monmouthshire and Glamorganshire, which seems to cement

the fact of its luxury. He was in the area gathering support after his defeat at the Battle of Naseby. Sir

Thomas' grandson, was host on this occasion and the royal coat of arms was added to the decoration on the

South Porch. The present public footpath from the Rudry approach to the Castle is still known as the 'King's

Drive,' (fig.2)

English architecture of this period has been called Renaissance, a style which was also beginning to make

headway in many of the lower Welsh counties. The term is a confusing one, for the period saw the birth of

as style to a considerable extent independent of, an even hostile to, the classical architecture of the

Continent; it drew its strength from native Gothic roots. The Elizabethans themselves reveal almost nothing

about their own buildings or the men who built them. Apart from drawings made by masons and surveyors

only a handful of contemporary illustrations of Elizabethan and later Jacobean houses survive to this day.

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FIG .1

RUPERRA CASTLE

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In 1576 du Cerceau published his Plus excellent

the most important buildings of the time, England was to have nothing anywhere near approaching this until

Britannia Illustrata, two volumes of country

Written or printed comments and description are nearly as rare, and when they do occur are often very

meagre. Topographers of the time would pay more attention to the family trees of the gentry than their

houses. Except when letters to or from the actual artificer

finds references to buildings in late Elizabethan correspondence

the architect who worked on Ruperra,

Ruperras first fire left it destroyed.

Historical Context: Elizabethan and Jacobean

To understand the architectural significance of Ruperra it is

Elizabethan Period of which the castle lends its style. It was

fuelled the beginning of over 500 years of British

began its conquest of the ‘new world.’ After

FIG .2

RUPERRA CASTLE

Plus excellent bastiments de France, a magnificent series of engravings of

the most important buildings of the time, England was to have nothing anywhere near approaching this until

two volumes of country-house views by Kip and Knyff, appeared in 1705 and 1715.

or printed comments and description are nearly as rare, and when they do occur are often very

meagre. Topographers of the time would pay more attention to the family trees of the gentry than their

rom the actual artificers or surveyors survive, it is very seldom than one

finds references to buildings in late Elizabethan correspondence; which seems to explain the anonymity of

the architect who worked on Ruperra, before it was refurbished by Thomas Hardwicke in 1785 after

Jacobean Pageantry and the ‘Sham-Castle’

To understand the architectural significance of Ruperra it is valuable to look at the

of which the castle lends its style. It was a period which, through accomplishments had

fuelled the beginning of over 500 years of British political and military dominance over

world.’ After the failed invasion and defeat of the Spanish Armada sent by

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a magnificent series of engravings of

the most important buildings of the time, England was to have nothing anywhere near approaching this until

house views by Kip and Knyff, appeared in 1705 and 1715.

or printed comments and description are nearly as rare, and when they do occur are often very

meagre. Topographers of the time would pay more attention to the family trees of the gentry than their

s or surveyors survive, it is very seldom than one

; which seems to explain the anonymity of

before it was refurbished by Thomas Hardwicke in 1785 after

at the significance of the

a period which, through accomplishments had

dominance over its enemies, and

ion and defeat of the Spanish Armada sent by

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King Phillip II in 1588 England entered a short era of national pride .The efflorescence of this national pride

and consciousness resulted naturally enough in an increasing interest in national history. The great

Elizabethan series of history plays starts in the 1580’s and get’s fully under way in the 1590’s.

Shakespeare’s Henry V with all its romance and nationalism was probably written in 1599. In 1595 Thomas

Daniel published the first five books of his historical epic, The Civile Wars; in the following year Micheal

Drayton published a similar work Mortimeriados, which he revised and issued as The Barons Warres in

1603. This was the most ambitious of a eries of historical poems by Drayton, of which the best known (and

the shortest) is perhaps the Ballad of Agincourt, first printed in 1606:

Upon Saint Crispin’s day

Fought was this noble fray

Which fame did not delay

To England to carry;

O, when shall the English men

With such acts fill a pen,

Or England breede againe,

Such a King Harry

Historical Poetry of this kind is distinct from literature and chivalry, but both helped create a picture of the

Middle Ages as a period of heroic deeds, thrilling stories, and national glory rather than the ignorance of

superstition.

Influences of this kind, combined with the increasing conservatism of a government of ageing

revolutionaries, helped to bring a return to, or strengthening of, tradition. In a general architectural context

this ‘Court’ architecture was conterminous with the peak of this type of chivalric Elizabethan Pageantry.

The display side of the Elizabethan and Jacobean tournament is only a section of the field of pageantry, to

which a very great amount of time and trouble was devoted throughout the period. Before discussing

Elizabethan castles of stone, maybe it would be best to discuss Elizabethan castles of cardboard or canvas,

for the latter is the larger group, and perhaps helped inspire the former. The castle has been a feature of

masques and pageants since medieval times, and it continued through the sixteenth century into the

seventeenth century. Mimic castles were (to quote a few many examples) features of pageantry

accompanying Henry V’s return to London from Agincourt in 1415; Henry VII’s entry into York in 1486;

Charles V’s reception at London in 1522; the coronation of Anne Boleyn in 1533; Elizabeth’s coronation

procession in 1558; her entry into Warwick in 1572; and the Lord Mayor’s show of 1612, 1613 and 1635.

A favourite feature of pageants was the castle assault – usually, for symbolic reasons, garrisoned by ladies.

At the wedding masque of Arthur and the Princess of Spain in 1501, for instance, a castle on wheels ‘right

cunningly devised’ was drawn into the hall by ‘fower great beasts with chanes of gold...There were within

the same Castle disguised VIII goodlye fresh ladyes, looking out of the windows of the same, and in the

foure apparelled like a maiden.’ The children sang as the pageant moved up the hall, and the castle was later

assaulted by ‘VIII goodly knights naming themselves Knights of the Mount of Love’ who captured the

ladies. A castle or fort on an Island in a lake was a feature of the elaborate entertainment which Lord

Hertford mounted for the Queen at Elvetham in Hampshire in 1591. The castle – ‘twenty foot square every

way and evergreen with willows’ – is described as ‘environed with armed men’ and Spirit of the lake

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appeared on the water to tell Elizabeth that ‘That Fort did Neptune raise for your defence.’ A display of

fireworks from the fort followed; more was planned, however due to rain had to be abandoned.

An Elizabethan engraving of the occasion (fig .4) is one of the last to survive depicting these extravagant

fests. An account of these sham-castles could go on interminably. To end with one, the Prince of Wale’s

entertainments of 1610 included a great water-fight of ships-of-war and galleys ‘against a great castle

builded upon the water’, followed by ‘many strange and variable fireworks.’

The reasoning for having sham-castles in pageants and tournaments were reasonably obvious. Sham-castles

in architecture are more complex. In most buildings of time it is easy enough to find Gothic echoes and

roots. But there are a few where the evocations of the Middle Ages, chivalric pageantry, or the world of the

romances is so strong as to set them in a class by themselves. These are the Elizabethan and Jacobean

castles. They are a somewhat variegated group, because of the differences of their starting-points. In some

the intention it seems is to evoke a medieval castle – in some cases this was because there was a medieval

castle on the site before. At Ruperra it seems an objective effort of not producing a copy, but rather creating

devices – evolving something novel and clever out of an allusion to the past.

FIG .4

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Lulworth and Ruperra

When walking about Lulworth or Ruperra it is hard to describe them in a manner other than that which

constitutes them as a pair because of their startling similarities. They either had a common original or one

inspired the other. Both are compact square houses, with battlements and round towers at the corners. (fig .5)

Both are three storeys high, and have arched window-lights of Tudor-Gothic type, (fig .6 & 7)

Both by Jacobean standards have a low ratio of lazing to wall. The two houses are almost identical in size

and have remarkably similar plans, in which the same number of rooms are grouped in the same way round

a central core; at Lulworth this core rose above the roof in the form of a little tower, and in both houses the

main chimney-flues seem to have been carried up in it. Until recently both where ruins, Lulworth being

restored fully in 1998 by English Heritage many years after the building was gutted by fire in 1929. Ruperra

suffered the same fate for the second time in 1941 when a British regiment of Searchlights had been

stationed in the castle grounds; a large fire broke out caused by faulty electric wiring.

Lulworth is the earlier of the two houses. It was built as a very grand hunting-lodge, an appendage to the

main family house at Bindon a few miles away. Started in 1588 in 1588 by Thomas Howard’s elder brother

Henry and only approached completion around 1607 after Thomas had inherited the property.

Ruperra is said to have been dated 1626 on the porch (fig 8 & 9). After Thomas Morgan (1564-1632) had

made his fortunes he entered the ring of extravagant Elizabethan society and when the seventh Earl of

FIG .5 THE GROUND-FLOOR PLANS OF

LULWORTH (left) AND RUPERRA (right)

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Shrewsbury’s daughter (and Sir Charles Cavendish’s niece) Mary Talbot marrie

1604, Thomas Morgan was one of the trustees of the marriage settlement.

FIG .6

There is a possible basis for a Smythson connection here.

English Architect of the time who designed many other notable Elizabethan country homes around the same

period. It is the nature of Ruperra that makes on take it seriously. The four round towers are suggestive

the mysterious plan at the commanding silhouette of Wollaton, completed in 1588. The enclosed core

containing the main flues and rising above the roofs as a tower seems to relate to the plan in the liabry

FIG .8

RUPERRA CASTLE

Shrewsbury’s daughter (and Sir Charles Cavendish’s niece) Mary Talbot married the Earl of Pembroke in

1604, Thomas Morgan was one of the trustees of the marriage settlement.

There is a possible basis for a Smythson connection here. Robert Smythson (1535

English Architect of the time who designed many other notable Elizabethan country homes around the same

period. It is the nature of Ruperra that makes on take it seriously. The four round towers are suggestive

the mysterious plan at the commanding silhouette of Wollaton, completed in 1588. The enclosed core

containing the main flues and rising above the roofs as a tower seems to relate to the plan in the liabry

FIG .7

FIG .9

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d the Earl of Pembroke in

Robert Smythson (1535 -1614 ) was a prominent

English Architect of the time who designed many other notable Elizabethan country homes around the same

period. It is the nature of Ruperra that makes on take it seriously. The four round towers are suggestive of

the mysterious plan at the commanding silhouette of Wollaton, completed in 1588. The enclosed core

containing the main flues and rising above the roofs as a tower seems to relate to the plan in the liabry

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Longleat, and to Bolsover and Shireoaks. The windows are suggestive of Smythson’s windows at Wardour.

At Lulworth, but not Ruperra, the hall ran along one side of the house, with its main axis at right angles to

the axis of the entrance porch. This position is an unsusal one for a hall, but similar to that found in several

Smythson drawings, and at Gawthorpe, Shireoaks and Bolsover. It seems however that the difference is

however to great for both two have been complete Smythson works and if anything, Smythson’s input must

have been limited to Plans and Elevations.

Castle and Surrounding Area

Ruppera is of stone and brick construction, common for country houses of the time and the area of Gwent,

the exterior is rendered with a thick roughcast. The mullioned windows have dressed limestone surrounds.

Until the refurbishment of the early Victorian period, the main entrance was in the centre of the south side,

where the storeyed ashlar dressed stone porch is topped with balustrading and is decorated with a heraldic

panel over the door, (fig .9).

When looking at the location and reasoning behind choosing building here it is relevant to consider the

surrounding countryside and normal practice at the time. In selection Morgan moved forward in the same

way as he did at Pencoed Castle by building, it is thought, on the site a medieval castle. The Morgan’s

where passionate about their ancestral past. The Pencoed Morgan’s especially so, descended from Llewelyn

ap Ivor (lord of St. Cleare) and his wife Angharad, daughter of Sir Morgan Meredith (and representative of

the Ancient Welsh Lords of Caerleon). Angharad was born in 1300. The name Morgan was originally spelt

"Morcant" in Old Welsh and only became "Morgan" in the medieval period. The area suited the longing

Morgan had for his sham-castle in the way that few other places could offer.

The castle lies in a four mile wide triangle of beautiful, unspoilt, rolling countryside between the rapidly

expanding conurbations of Cardiff, Newport and Caerphilly. When in the 1935 sale of the huge 53,000 acre

Tredegar estate the 3,000 acre Ruperra Estate mentioned hunting and shooting and boasted its 3 hour train

journey time to London. When in 1802 Benjamin Malkin was visiting the park, gathering material for his

new book described as how 'singularly beautiful' the effect of the harvest moon shining on the Bristol

Channel as he walked across the park. And this is certainly the type of evocative feeling one is overcome

with when walking through the park and peering through the windows of this ‘Romantic Ruin.’ Although

today, things are different and the deer have long since disappeared and the M4 motorway can be seen in the

distance, however it can almost never be heard and the peaceful atmosphere and picturesque landscape at

Ruperra is an aesthetic tonic. The area surroundings the castle is today largely agricultural with the area to

the north of the Castle known as Craig Ruperra. Between around 700 BC and 100 AD an Iron Age Hill Fort

was constructed along the ridge of Coed Craig Ruperra, and later about 1100 AD a huge heap of earth for a

Norman type motte or castle was piled up on the top of the ridge. In the estate plan of 1764 it seems this

motte was replaced with a two storey summerhouse on the top of Craig Ruperra, which may have been built

at the same time as the castle more than a century earlier as the foundation stones date to the same period as

the south porch.

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Developments

In the Victorian and Edwardian Periods New lodges, namely Ruperra Park Lodge, East Lodge

demolished),West Lodge and Ironbridge Cottage were built

(now listed), had been built in 1826 to take the new carriage way from the Castle through Coed Craig

Ruperra and across the Rhymney River to Lower Machen Church where the family and their servants

attended Sunday services.

By the end of the century the buildings at R

destroyed by fire in 1895. After the death of Colonel Frederick Morgan in 1909, his son Courtenay

embarked on a programme of refurbishment to include a new east entrance porch,

.12) , a new power house fitted with duplicate steam

reservoir and pump house in the deer park. The brew house, laundry and dairy range built in the 1840s, were

converted to accommodate the valets, foo

RUPERRA CASTLE

Edwardian Periods New lodges, namely Ruperra Park Lodge, East Lodge

West Lodge and Ironbridge Cottage were built. The Iron Bridge, situated near lower Machen

, had been built in 1826 to take the new carriage way from the Castle through Coed Craig

Ruperra and across the Rhymney River to Lower Machen Church where the family and their servants

By the end of the century the buildings at Ruperra were in need of repair. The stable block had been

destroyed by fire in 1895. After the death of Colonel Frederick Morgan in 1909, his son Courtenay

embarked on a programme of refurbishment to include a new east entrance porch,

, a new power house fitted with duplicate steam-driven generators, dynamos and boilers and a new

reservoir and pump house in the deer park. The brew house, laundry and dairy range built in the 1840s, were

converted to accommodate the valets, footmen, chauffeurs and garden staff.

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Edwardian Periods New lodges, namely Ruperra Park Lodge, East Lodge ( now

situated near lower Machen

, had been built in 1826 to take the new carriage way from the Castle through Coed Craig

Ruperra and across the Rhymney River to Lower Machen Church where the family and their servants

uperra were in need of repair. The stable block had been

destroyed by fire in 1895. After the death of Colonel Frederick Morgan in 1909, his son Courtenay

(fig .11) new stables (fig

driven generators, dynamos and boilers and a new

reservoir and pump house in the deer park. The brew house, laundry and dairy range built in the 1840s, were

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In spite of the splendid building works, Ruperra at

second home of the Morgan family. Courtenay, the Lord Tredegar

his son Evan did not make Ruperra his home as previous ‘sons in waiting’ had done. With only a small

domestic staff installed, Ruperra was used for hunting and shooting and weekend parties. Even so the

gardens were maintained to a high ord

Agnes supervised the domestic arrangements;

By 1935 the fortunes of the Morgan family had declined and the 3000 acre estate was put up for sale. But

there were no offers. The contents of the Castle were disposed of in a three day sale. What remained was

taken to Tredegar House, the Castle abandoned and the gardens left to go wild.

FIG .11

FIG .12

RUPERRA CASTLE

In spite of the splendid building works, Ruperra at the turn of the last century became very much only the

second home of the Morgan family. Courtenay, the Lord Tredegar at the time lived at Tr

his son Evan did not make Ruperra his home as previous ‘sons in waiting’ had done. With only a small

domestic staff installed, Ruperra was used for hunting and shooting and weekend parties. Even so the

gardens were maintained to a high order, with Mr Angus McKinnon heading a large staff. Angus’ wife

arrangements; his family are pictured in fig .13.

By 1935 the fortunes of the Morgan family had declined and the 3000 acre estate was put up for sale. But

e no offers. The contents of the Castle were disposed of in a three day sale. What remained was

taken to Tredegar House, the Castle abandoned and the gardens left to go wild.

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became very much only the

lived at Tredegar House and

his son Evan did not make Ruperra his home as previous ‘sons in waiting’ had done. With only a small

domestic staff installed, Ruperra was used for hunting and shooting and weekend parties. Even so the

er, with Mr Angus McKinnon heading a large staff. Angus’ wife

By 1935 the fortunes of the Morgan family had declined and the 3000 acre estate was put up for sale. But

e no offers. The contents of the Castle were disposed of in a three day sale. What remained was

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Recent Activity

As of recent there have been considerable

many times in throughout the last century, Its current owner, Ashraf Barakat, who bought the property in

1998, had proposed to convert the castle

Scheduled Ancient Monument - into nine residential flats, and fully refurbish a number of other buildings on

the site., which include 18 two storey houses.

Ruperra Castle Action Group, who say the character of the castle and its grounds would be lost if new

houses were built.

However on December 05, 2007 this planning application was deferred for refusal by Cearphilly country

council and the building now seems to have been saved.

written on the plight of the castle as of recent, these include an article

magazine, in which he goes to describe the plight of Rupperra castle as, ‘desperate’ and how it seems the

castles estimated £7.5 million refurbishment costs could not be covered exclusively by CADW, he later

writes how ‘It is hard to see how this tragic case can be resolved without a determined lead from the Welsh

Assembly.’

The late Dr Giles Worsley wrote an article in Country Life entitled ‘On the Ruins of Ruperra’ in 1986, when

he explained the uniqueness of Ruperra in the histor

“Somehow country houses have been seen to lack a Welshness that would make them culturally respectable.

The RCAHM publication of the ‘Greater Houses of Glamorgan ‘ in 1981 showed how false that idea was

and how incorrect it is to believe that Wales lacked

17th centuries are perhaps the most fascinating years in the history of these houses when Welsh tradition

and English influences clashed. At Ruperra we see the triumph of court based architectural ideals

result is a house still marked by local tradition, a house that can be read as part of the Elizabethan and

FIG .13

RUPERRA CASTLE

erable developments in the tale of Ruperra castle. After changing hands

ghout the last century, Its current owner, Ashraf Barakat, who bought the property in

proposed to convert the castle - which has been designated both a Grade II L

into nine residential flats, and fully refurbish a number of other buildings on

the site., which include 18 two storey houses. This angered members of the Ruperra Conservation Trust and

n Group, who say the character of the castle and its grounds would be lost if new

planning application was deferred for refusal by Cearphilly country

council and the building now seems to have been saved. Prior to which many prominent artic

written on the plight of the castle as of recent, these include an article by Marcus Binney for country life

, in which he goes to describe the plight of Rupperra castle as, ‘desperate’ and how it seems the

castles estimated £7.5 million refurbishment costs could not be covered exclusively by CADW, he later

to see how this tragic case can be resolved without a determined lead from the Welsh

The late Dr Giles Worsley wrote an article in Country Life entitled ‘On the Ruins of Ruperra’ in 1986, when

he explained the uniqueness of Ruperra in the historical architecture of Wales.

“Somehow country houses have been seen to lack a Welshness that would make them culturally respectable.

The RCAHM publication of the ‘Greater Houses of Glamorgan ‘ in 1981 showed how false that idea was

and how incorrect it is to believe that Wales lacked architecturally important houses. The 16th and early

17th centuries are perhaps the most fascinating years in the history of these houses when Welsh tradition

and English influences clashed. At Ruperra we see the triumph of court based architectural ideals

result is a house still marked by local tradition, a house that can be read as part of the Elizabethan and

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of Ruperra castle. After changing hands

ghout the last century, Its current owner, Ashraf Barakat, who bought the property in

which has been designated both a Grade II Listed Building and a

into nine residential flats, and fully refurbish a number of other buildings on

angered members of the Ruperra Conservation Trust and

n Group, who say the character of the castle and its grounds would be lost if new

planning application was deferred for refusal by Cearphilly country

any prominent articles had been

Binney for country life

, in which he goes to describe the plight of Rupperra castle as, ‘desperate’ and how it seems the

castles estimated £7.5 million refurbishment costs could not be covered exclusively by CADW, he later

to see how this tragic case can be resolved without a determined lead from the Welsh

The late Dr Giles Worsley wrote an article in Country Life entitled ‘On the Ruins of Ruperra’ in 1986, when

“Somehow country houses have been seen to lack a Welshness that would make them culturally respectable.

The RCAHM publication of the ‘Greater Houses of Glamorgan ‘ in 1981 showed how false that idea was

architecturally important houses. The 16th and early

17th centuries are perhaps the most fascinating years in the history of these houses when Welsh tradition

and English influences clashed. At Ruperra we see the triumph of court based architectural ideals, but the

result is a house still marked by local tradition, a house that can be read as part of the Elizabethan and

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Benjamin Hale

Jacobean revival of chivalry, but that gains added value in a country of castles, where many of the great

houses of its day were still semi fortified, little influenced by the Renaissance.”

Ruperra is a magic place especially when approached from the urban sprawl of the coastal plain. The other

great Morgan House, Tredegar House on the outskirts of @ewport, was saved when it was on the brink

is now one of the great sites of South Wales. Ruperra, ruined but in unspoilt country, is its natural

complement. The people of South Wales deserve to have it saved.”

RUPERRA CASTLE

Jacobean revival of chivalry, but that gains added value in a country of castles, where many of the great

fortified, little influenced by the Renaissance.”

Ruperra is a magic place especially when approached from the urban sprawl of the coastal plain. The other

great Morgan House, Tredegar House on the outskirts of @ewport, was saved when it was on the brink

is now one of the great sites of South Wales. Ruperra, ruined but in unspoilt country, is its natural

complement. The people of South Wales deserve to have it saved.”

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Jacobean revival of chivalry, but that gains added value in a country of castles, where many of the great

Ruperra is a magic place especially when approached from the urban sprawl of the coastal plain. The other

great Morgan House, Tredegar House on the outskirts of @ewport, was saved when it was on the brink and

is now one of the great sites of South Wales. Ruperra, ruined but in unspoilt country, is its natural

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