A Guide for All Your Senses

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You like the sea and the sun, but you would also like to ex-perience the entire magical beauty of Istria and the islands Cres, Lošinj and Pag? In an age of information overload, we aim at providing verified, de-tailed, and easily accessible infor-mation. Being a private company, we are able to publish only the in-formation we can really vouch for, and recommend only the places that suit our criteria: authentic

atmosphere and quality service at fair prices. All the places from this guide are visited regularly by our field crew, guaranteeing that the actual quality level of these places corresponds to the de-scriptions in the guide. Let us help you explore the true soul of this area: home-made food, local people and their way of life, secluded corners hidden to an average tourist eye, and other delights for all your senses.

NEW!RONA PLUS: COMBINE YOUR OWN IDEAL HOLIDAY!Come back home from your holiday

with new experiences and impressions

you will always happily remember!

RONA PLUS POCKET GUIDE: USER’S MANUALIn order to use this guide properly, you will need to buy a detailed large-scale map, such as a 1:100,000-scale. Test the map before buying it: for example, if you are buying a map of Istria, look for a smaller town, such as Gondolići, about 3 km south of Labin. The pocket guide concentrates on places you have probably never heard of, because these are the places where people experience the most memorable mo-ments. There are five ideas for one-day road trips, com-posed of nearby destinations, so you could spend less

time in a car, and more in enjoyment! Some day trips are circular, and any of the mentioned places can be the starting point; if you choose to change the order, pay at-tention to the opening hours of your destinations so that you would not find them closed. Around the middle of each trip there is a lunch suggestion: well-tried taverns, where you will certainly not be disappointed neither by the food and atmosphere, nor by the price. NOTE: Price ranges and Basic Information are all based on informa-tion from 2013 and are subject to change.

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RONA APARTMENTS: NEWLY RENOVATED APARTMENTS IN PERFECT LOCATIONSFOR YOUR MAXIMUM ENJOYMENT WE HAVE CHOSEN ISTRIA AND THE ISLANDS PAG, CRES AND LOŠINJWe have chosen to locate our apart-ments in relaxed tourist villages, where you can relax and still be in the centre of summer action in a matter of minutes. You will have a beach nearby, a parking space, quiet nights, easy access and natural surroundings; if you are in a mood for fun, you can choose from a number of events in the town nearby:

ISTRABarbariga – next to PulaČervar Porat – next to PorečMareda – next to Novigrad

PAGGajac – next to Novalja and Zrće beach

CRES-LOŠINJZaglav – between Cres and Lošinj

NO HIDDEN COSTS:Air-conditioning, sojourn tax, guest registration expenses, final cleaning, bed linen and bathroom towels: all included in the price!

CONTACT US!Visit our webpage www.rona.hr or contact RONA Tourist Agency directly via e-mail booking@rona.hr or phone +385-51-715-728.

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CAPE KAMENJAKRocks, sea, dinosaurs, and the craziest bar in Istria!The well renowned tourist guide Lonely Planet has listed Cape Ka-menjak as one of the most desirable destinations for a secluded holiday on the Mediterranean: the cape, also the southmost point of Istria, is dominated by rocks, the sea, and peace. A web of nu-merous bike trails make Cape Kamenjak a wonderful place to go biking all year long; however, in the summer most people prefer it for swimming. First go to the village of Premantura, which is also the entrance to Kamenjak. A 600-meter-long walking route called Following the Dinosaur Ways on Kamenjak begins near the entrance, where you can see dinosaur models and actual footprints left by the dinosaurs that used to walk these parts. You can explore the route on foot or by bike, and enjoy the smells of aromatic plants and the sound of crickets chirping in the summer fields, luring you to go swimming. Drive all the way to the Parking lot at the cape’s very end (cca. 4 km), park your car, and after a few more minutes on foot you will reach the coast. A piece of advice: take a parasol if you are planning on spending the entire day there, because there is almost no shade. The higher rocks urge numerous people to try out various water jumps – you will immediately notice the jumpers’ gathering place. The cape’s wild nature is also an interesting location for diving, exploring the plant life (there are about 550 various plant species), etc. Would you ever expect to find an actual bar in this wilderness? The Safari Bar is fused so perfectly with its surroundings that you

cannot really be sure whether you are in the bar or not. You will find yourself walking on straw, passing by irregularly shaped

wooden benches and trunks at the tables, and pouring your drink from a faucet embedded in a rock. Besides

the shade, the bar also offers numerous opportunities for play and exploration, making it a kid’s paradise. From there you can also see Porer, a little island with a 19th century lighthouse. From a protruded part of the cost, or from higher ground, you can see the nearby little island of Fenoliga, whose southern part is

one of the richest dinosaurs’ footprints sites in Europe, with over 100 identified footprints.

More information is available at www.kamenjak.hr

Cape Kamenjak

www.kamenjak.hr

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Basic Information

TICKET PRICE:25.00/35.00 HRK per day, depending on the month (valid all day)

LOCATION:Premantura, near Pule

NEARBY POINTS OF INTEREST:City of Pula

Porer

Safari bar

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THE PARENZANATogether on wheels through the past and the presentOnce upon a time the Parenzana was a narrow gauge railroad, built to connect Trieste and Poreč (Parenzo in Italian), connecting thirty-three other Istrian towns along the way. The route is 123 km long; 78 km are on Croatian territory. It was opened for traffic in 1902, but in 1935 the Mussolini government decided that the iron used for rail-ways would be much better used for weapons. The tracks were then dismantled and loaded onto a ship bound for Abyssinia, where they were supposed to be melted into raw metal for weapons. Instead, the tracks of the Parenzana railroad met their sad end at the bottom of the Mediterranean: the ship was torpedoed, and today the railway tracks keep company to Mediterranean fishes.

However, what was once a train route today is a wonderful biking route! The Parenzana is a very popular for biking and hiking. The route is very well marked and you can get started from any of a number of Istrian villages it passes by: from Poreč and Vižinada to the Slovenian border, including little towns such as Buje, Grožnjan, Oprtalj and Motovun. The well maintained eleven tunnels, numerous bridges and viaducts on its path give the experience a special atmos-phere. The route is interesting to explore at any time of the year. In the winter, when the tunnels temporarily turn into ice caves with icicles hanging from the ceilings, you can chose a less demanding segment and regain your strength at one of the nearby taverns, sitting by an open fireplace and sipping Istrian soup*.

The Parenzana Museum is located in the small town of Livade. The Museum exhibits numerous fantastic old photographies and other interesting details, offering answers to any and all questions you might have about the Parenzana. Call +385-52-644-150 an hour in advance to notify the staff of your arrival, and one of them will come and give you a tour of the museum (group visits, as well as individual visits). The museum is open all year round, and free of charge.

More information is available at www.parenzana.net (Parenzana it-self), and at www.istria-bike.com (biking on the Parenzana).

Parenzana

www.parenzana.net

www.istria-bike.com*Istrian soup is not really a soup – it is a typical local beverage. Red wine with some spices and olive oil is warmed up on open fire, and served with pieces of toasted bread. Delicious.

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Basic Information

TICKET PRICE: 0,00 kn

LOCATION:Savudrija – Buje – Grožnjan – Oprtalj

– Motovun – VižinadaParenzana Museum: Livade (on route from Motovun to Oprtalj

NEARBY POINTS OF INTEREST:all the towns and villages the route passes byBaredine and Mramornica caves(see pp. 8-9)

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ISTRIAN CAVESThe mystic undergroundThe glittering, amazingly shaped stalactites and stalagmites will surely be a welcome refreshment to your vacation in Istria. Istria be-longs to the karst area stretched along the entire Croatian coastline, full of caves and sinkholes. How so? Trying to make its way deeper and deeper underground, water is constantly melting the limestone and opening up passages; as a result, caves are formed. Perhaps you have already noticed that there are very few rivers in Istria, and even the existing ones are rather small? In karst areas such as this one water quickly finds its way down, so karst areas are generally char-acterized by scarce surface waters, and – numerous caves! There are four tourist caves in Istrian countryside: Pazinska jama (the Cave of Pazin), Baredine Cave, Mramornica (Marble cave), and Feštinsko kraljevstvo (The Kingdom of Feštini). Some are caves (underground spaces with a horizontal entrance), and others are sinkholes (under-ground spaces with a vertical entrance), and you enter them by stairs. These mysterious spaces are home to numerous animals that never go outside, such as the olm (lat. Proteus anguinus, called čovječja ribica in Croatian, which means human fish), various crabs, insects, sponges, etc. If bats are the first animal species that comes to mind when you think of the underground, think again: actually, they are not real cave animals, as they go outside to hunt.

If you decide to visit one of the caves, make sure you bring some warm clothes (long pants and a sweater). Although it may be hot outside, and even the very thought of warm clothes repels you, the temperature in the un-derground varies between 13 and 15°C, so do not be taken by surprise. The temperature in the inner parts of a cave is constant (never changes), and it matches the average annual temperature of the area..

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Basic InformationTICKET PRICE: Baredine: adults 60,00/children 35,00 students 45,00 knMramornica: adults 50,00 children 25,00 / students 40,00 knFeštinsko kraljevstvo: adults 40,00 children 25,00 knPazinska jama: Educational trail: adults 30.00/children 15.00 kunaSpeleo-adventure 100.00 kuna per personFREE OF CHARGE ON MONDAYS.

All the above mentioned caves have special group

discount prices.

LOCATION:Baredine: Nova Vas (near Višnjan)Mramornica: near BrtoniglaFeštinsko kraljevstvo: about half way between Žminj and BarbanPazinska jama: City of Pazin

OPENING HOURS:daily, 09:30-18:00 (July/Aug.) 10:00-17:00 (Sept.)Mramornica: 10:00-18:00 (prior notification at 00385-52-774-313or 00385-52 774-276)Feštinsko kraljevstvo: daily, 10:00-18:00 (prior notification at +385-91-561-6327,

+385-91-721-2854)

Pazinska jama: daily, 10:00-19:00

Baredine

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ŠKARLINE CANYONRefreshment accompanied by croaking frogsIf you feel like taking a break from the sun and the sea, visit the Škarline canyon! Start from the village of Nova Vas. Drive to the cen-tre of Nova Vas (a roundabout with three cypress trees, two benches and a table), turn right, and after 30 metres on your right you will see a sign and the beginning of a macadam road leading to Škarline. After a 1.7 km drive along vineyards, you will reach the entrance to Škarline. At the entrance there are two ponds with a little bridge, and a wa-ter faucet. There is also an educational board, and a waterfall which comes to life during rainy seasons. At this point the canyon is not yet visible: cross the bridge, and you will see a couple of signs, one of which points the way to Škarline canyon. On its way towards joining Mirna River, Škarline brook has created a lush green canyon. Its fresh air makes it a lovely sanctuary from the summer heat. Remember to bring some food and drink.

If you are not sure which way to go, just follow the sound of the brook. Entering the canyon feels like entering a different world, with a waterfall and a clear brook meandering for several kilometres towards Mirna River through thick, shady woodland. (www.coloursofistria.com)

You can also go for a hike on St. Zenon hik-ing route, which be-gins at Škarline and leads back to Brto-nigla; the walk takes about two hours, de-pending on your pace. The hike is an easy one: a macadam road passing through vine-yards, and only a small portion is asphalted. The route is well marked, courtesy of Friends of Nature association, whose members take care of the route’s signs and marks.

You might also like to visit Mirna River Delta, an ornithological reserve and a popular biking area. Park your car at Antenal (next to Novigrad) and go on a bike safari in search for numerous birds!

NOTE: There are seve-ral villages in Istria that

go by the name Nova Vas (Eng. New Village). Nova Vas referred to in this text is the one near

Brtonigla, not the one near Poreč, or the one

near Kršan, etc.

Mirna Valley

www.coloursofistria.com

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Basic Information

TICKET PRICE: 0,00 kn

LOCATION:1.7 km to the N-NE of the village of Nova Vas (near Brtonigla)

NEARBY POINTS OF INTEREST:St. Zenon hiking route

Mirna River Delta ornithological reser-ve (Antenal, next to Novigrad)

Škarline Canyon

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UCKA NATURE PARKˇA view from the aboveThis gorgeous part of Istria combines rich forests, educational trails, fountains, a tower, evidence of ancient events in the Earth’s crust, and – finally – a fantastic view of the entire Kvarner Bay! You can see some of the Kvarner islands and all the way to the moun-tain tops of Gorski Kotar, Velebit, the Alps, and Italy. Učka Nature Park stretches across 160 km2, and its highest mountain peak Vojak (1401 m) is also the highest mountain peak of Istria. Vojak Tower, built in 1911 during the Austro-Hungarian rule by mountain climbers and nature enthusiasts, was used by the Austro-Hungar-ian army as a military and naval lookout post in World War I. Take a walk on Plas educational trail (2 km long) which begins about 300 meters further away. There are so many places to visit in Učka Nature Park… Do not miss some of the following:

• Veli Planik, the second highest mountain peak of the park. It belongs to a different mountain: Ćićarija. Take this opportunity to enjoy a unique 360° all-around view from its peak.

• Medieval castle of Kožljak, built on a steep cliff above the former lake of Čepić, still recalls the turbulent past. A series of coats of arms chiselled into the rock tells a tale of numerous owners, battles and dreams dreamt by people just like us, but from long, long ago.

• Korita (Eng. Troughs), a meadow at 1000 m above sea level, where a mountain stream pouring into nine solid wooden trou-ghs, overflowing from one into another. In the past, the troughs were a major water source for the local people and their cattle, but today Korita is a popular destination for people who like to enjoy beautiful views and pristine nature. Visit the nearby mo-untain hut and have a cup of tea prepared from local aromatic herbs. A well-marked trail from the village of Brgudac (park your car there) takes about 45 minutes on foot, making Korita easily reachable.

• Vranjska draga (a.k.a. Vela draga) is a canyon located on the landlocked side of Učka Mountain. The unique canyon was for-med due to the collapse of a ceiling of what was once a huge underground river; the pillars which once supported the ceiling nowadays stick out pointing to the sky. The canyon is a popular destination for free climbers.

www.pp-ucka.hr

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UCKA NATURE PARK• Visit the Trebišća-Perun history and

mythology trail, and dive into the my-stic age of the first Slavic settlers on Kvarner! From the very entrance, this gorge tells an exciting tale of their most sacred beliefs. Leave your car in Mošćenička Draga and embark on this whole-day trip.

...and much, much more!

More information is available at www.pp-ucka.hr/en

Basic InformationTICKET PRICE: 0,00 kn. You can hire a guide for any of the excursions, and at a very affordable price, too. Price list at www.pp-ucka.hr/en

LOCATION: Učka, Ćićarija

NEARBY POINTS OF INTEREST: Raspadalica is a plateau next to Buzet, an ideal spot for paragliding, free climbing, mountain biking, adventure races, caving, etc. Start from Buzet and drive to the end of the road which leads from Buzet train station to the vil-lage of Slum, and then continue on a macadam road for another 2 km until you reach Raspadalica plateau.Žbevnica is another lovely plateau. Start from Buzet and drive towards Brest, after which continue towards the village of Dane. At the saddle turn left to a macadam road. Turn left by the antenna, continue for another kilome-tre and park your car next to the for-mer entrance to an underground water tank. Proceed on foot for another 500 meters uphill, following the mountain trail towards west, and here you are at Žbevnica.

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TRIP No. 1:

BAREDINE Go underground for refreshment! The in-terior of this geomorphological monument will reveal its amazing rock formations which have been form-ing for millions of years, and provide you with a welcome refreshment from summer heat. In addition to visiting the cave, you can also try out the basic caving techniques of going up and down the rope, get some refreshments in the coffee bar and the fast food, or pay a visit to Tractor Story, a museum with numerous old photographies and agricultural ma-chinery, an art gallery and a wine boutique. If you wish to try out the caving techniques, you should announce your arrival by phone a few hours in advance, so that the personnel have enough time to prepare the neces-sary equipment. Two donkeys, Keko the goat, geese and ducks will keep you company at Baredine. How to get there? Go to the village of Nova Vas (4.5 km to the west of Višnjan) and from there follow the road signs to Baredine for another 1.3 km. Ticket prices range from 35.00 to 60.00 kuna, rope climbing costs 40.00-50.00, and tractor museum tickets cost 20.00-30.00 kuna.More information is available at www.baredine.com, www.speleolit.com, and www.traktorstory.com.

VIŠNJAN You have probably heard of the Višnjan Observatory? One of the most effi-cient observatories in the World in discovering asteroids was located here for years. However, even this charming little town’s light pollution

eventually became too great for the observatory, so in 2009 a new ob-servatory was built next to the village of Tićan, 2.5 km away. How to get there? Take the road from Višnjan towards Karojba, and when you see a huge tree and a big rock looking like a table on your right, turn left to a narrow road through a vineyard and leading to the observatory. The first scene is fantastic: an old church and a modern observatory stand fac-ing each other on a well-groomed meadow. There is also a replica of a pre-historic calendar (the so-called Istrian Stonehenge, originally located near Poreč, on a hill called Mali Sveti Anđeo – Little Holy Angel in English), and various measuring instruments. Call +385-5-2-449-212 to inquire

www.baredine.com

www.speleolit.com

www.traktorstory.com

www.astro.hr

The sea, vampires, the stars, the underground, and great wine – all in the same day!

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about a preannounced group of visitors, join them for a tour of the observatory and find out anything and everything you have ever wanted to know about the stars, the Solar system and the known universe!More information is available at www.astro.hr/pocetna.php.

RADOVAN WINERY In the village of Radovani, the surname of 80% of the population is Ra-dovan. The village is located on a hill, so it has

a lovely view of the sea. Every house has a huge iron gate. Call +385-52-462-166 to announce your arrival a few hours

in advance, to make sure the household mem-bers are at home. With the sound of crickets and the taste of cool wine in your mouth you will sense what the summer is like in the Istrian countryside. How to get there? After the visit the observatory return to the main road, proceed towards Karojba for another 600 meters and at the crossroad turn right (towards Baderna). After about 4 km you will see a road sign direct-ing you right to Radovani. When you reach the village you will see the winery’s sign under a road mirror. Turn right, pass the bowling court and turn right again, and then slowly proceed to the end of the village.

KRINGA The village of Kringa is becoming in-creasingly famous due to the first documented vampire in Europe. Jure Grando was a peasant who terrorised his widow and the fellow-villag-ers for sixteen full years. Finally, after a couple of unsuccessful attempts, a group of nine men lead by the parson managed to settle this vam-pire problem… This entire case, which involves one parson, one undead, a wooden stake, nine men and a lot of fear, can be explored at the Jure Grando Museum. Vampire literary evenings are held once a month at Vampir bar; if you miss out on them, at least try one of their vampire

cocktails. The Vampire Menu awaits you at the nearby Danijeli tavern, which we warmly rec-ommend regardless of whether you are into vampires or not (see p. 31).

POREČ One of the shiniest jewels of the Istrian coastline. The small town is rich in mosaics (the Euphrasian Basilica), numerous evening events in the historical centre, and great piz-zerias, while its surroundings are full of lovely bike routes. The famous film director Luc Besson used to spend his childhood sum-mers here, diving with his father at the Plava laguna (Eng. Blue Lagoon). Plava laguna was a source of inspiration for his movie The Big Blue; also note that the blue alien singer from the movie The Fifth Element was named Diva Plavalaguna. There are many opportunities for fun in Poreč, such as the aquarium and one of the nine sensory plays from the project Is-tra Inspirit: Iustitia, a fantastic interactive play followed by a rich baroque-style dinner for the audience (see pp. 24-25).

Poreč

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TRIP No. 2:

MOTOVUN The most famous little town in Istria became widely known thanks to its appearance in Vladimir Nazor’s tale Veli Jože (Eng. Big Jo-seph), a touching story of a kind-hearted giant. For the younger genera-tions the town is best known as the site of Motovun Film Festival, symbol-ized by a propeller – in homage to Josef Ressel, a Motovun citizen who invented the propeller, an endless screw. In the Patent Office records his invention was defined as an endless screw which can propel the ship both forwards and in reverse. Josef Ressel, Czech by origin, was sent to Motovun as district forester, particularly responsible for the afforestation of the entire area. Motovun forest is known as one of the most productive truffle habitats in the world, both white and black truffle alike. You will no-tice dogs in many yards: they are truffle-searching dogs, specially trained to sniff out this underground delicacy. Contrary to the general belief, pigs are not used in truffle searching. You will have to leave the car at the Park-ing lot at the foot of the hill, but the view from the town walls is absolutely worth the trouble of climbing all the way up to the top. Having a cup of coffee in one of the bars at the town walls is a pleasure everyone should be able to experience. The river Mirna passes just beneath Motovun, so in the morning the town seems like an island floating on a sea of morn-ing mist. Take a look down from the town walls and imagine Veli Joža tilling the fertile land with a huge hoe. A piece of advice: if you approach Motovun from the road Poreč-Pazin, the town will look like an island in a sea of vineyards.

PUHI The village of Puhi offers a real treat for the curious. Certainly at this point you have already heard a lot about the truffles, and came to wonder: OK, so what is the deal with these truffles? You will finally get the answers to all your questions about this underground delicacy, be-cause here you will meet Kristijan Krt, truffle wholesale merchant. Mr Krt is a kind and friendly man who will gladly tell and show you anything you would like to know about truffles. The Krt family also make excellent red and white wine which is sold at a very affordable price. Call +385-98-224-109 or +385-98-415-344 a few hours in advance to announce your arrival. The best time to visit Puhi is on weekends, but also during the week there is always someone at home. How to get there? Take the road from Motovun towards Buzet and turn right (to the south-east) and

From hill to hill through the Kingdom of Truffles!

Motovun

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cross a bridge over Mirna river, following the road sign to Puhi. About 1.6 km after the bridge turn left, and proceed for another 800 meters to the village of Puhi and the home of Mr Krt. Be careful not to end up in the village of Krti, a couple of kilometres down the road.

LIVADE A village opposite to Motovun, situated on the other bank of Mirna River, is the centre of Zigante Truffle Production. Here you can find out more about truffles, but also about the Parenzana (see pp. 6-7). Already on the way down from Motovun you will see a small sign for the Parenzana, so you can include it in your trip if you have enough time and energy. In Li-vade there is the Parenzana Museum, which is free of charge: you only need to call +385-52-644-150 and announce your arrival an hour in advance, so that the guide could come to open up and give you a tour.

OPRTALJ The homey and intimate atmos-phere of this hidden pearl unknown to most tourists will surely warm up your heart. This lit-

tle town on a hill and its brightly coloured houses is locat-ed near, but still far away from the usual tourist routes. If you wish to have a taste of genuine local spe-cialties, have lunch

at Loggia tavern (see p. 38), situated right be-neath the town loggia newt to the main Park-ing lot. How to get there? Pass straight through Livade and take the road winding uphill, con-tinue driving for another 6.2 km, and you will be at Oprtalj. Some events taking place in Oprtalj should be singled out: the Antiques Fair (sec-ond Sunday every month), the international folk music festival Alpe Adria folk fest (July), and the International Accordionists’ Meeting (August), a loud and cheerful event with a bunch of accor-dion players and great music.

GROŽNJAN Known as the town of artists, Grožnjan is a venue for various art workshops throughout the year. While you walk down the streets, from every other house you can hear the sounds of musicians practicing their instru-ments. Have a cup of coffee at terrace of the bar Vero (the building behind the main stage of the jazz festival), and enjoy a fantastic view of Motovun and the fairytale-like landscape of the Istrian countryside. Find a way to the west-ern side of the town, from where you can see the sunset over the sea. We recommend the international jazz festival Jazz Is Back BP, tak-ing place during July and August.

Oprtalj

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TRIP No. 3:

PAZIN The biggest town in the Istrian countryside is home to Pazinska jama (Eng. the Cave of Pazin, see pp. 8-9), Pazinski kaštel (Eng. the Castle of Pazin), over one hundred various species of trees, and much, much more. At the end of June the manifestation Jules Verne Days takes place. The protagonist of Jules Verne’s novel Mathias Sandorf was held captive at the castle, but managed to escape using the lightning rod to descend into the Pazin cave, from where he rode the underground river all the way to Limski kanal (Eng. Lim Channel). Of course, such a trip is not possible, but the escape was brought to life in Jules Verne: the Escape from the Castle, a fantastic play accompanied by a dinner for the audience, as well as entertainment from that age. The play is one of nine plays from the project Istra Inspirit (see pp. 24-25).

ZAREČKI KROV A small, deep lake of fresh water with a little wa-terfall is a popular swimming des-tination among local people. The lake is especially popular among the young, because they can jump from the 6-7 meters high rock roof-ing over a semi-cave, an extension

of the lake’s coastline. Do not be perplexed by the colour of the water: the clay soil dissolved in water gives it a bluish-green, non-transparent colour. The rocks surrounding the lake are a popular destination for free climbers, especially because they can climb the semi-cave’s ceiling. In the winter, ice climbers can try out the frozen waterfall. Zarečki krov is located just outside Pazin: start from the centre of Pazin, and take the old road towards Učka tunnel (not the highway!). At the city limit sign turn left, and continue on the macadam road for another 300 meters. Considering the intimate nature of the ambiance and the fact that it is located on private property, we implore you to take special care of the environment. If you are in a bigger group, try to use as few cars as possible, and park the remaining cars at a Parking lot in Pazin.

BAŽON WINERY When they are not at the vineyard, the members of this friendly and hardworking family are at the wine tasting room, and vice versa. For this reason you should call +385-52-621-997 and announce your arrival in advance. You will get a tour of the property in the company of their well-mannered dogs, and finish up facing numerous bottles of wine and rakija (Eng. brandy) at the tasting room. There are four types of degustations you can choose from, differing in combinations and quantity of food and drink, the richest one being practically an entire meal. Consid-

A trip through the odd

Zarečki krov

19

ering the combination of great wine and light-hearted atmosphere, it is a real challenge to restrain oneself from having too much to drink. Therefore, if you are planning to visit Bažon win-ery, first choose the poor thing who is to be the designated driver, and – enjoy!

GRAČIŠĆE The site of two truly unique church-es, a Venetian palace, and a great tavern to have lunch at! The miniature town of Gračišće seems to be stuck in the past, and in the future it is sure to become one of the shiniest jewels of the Is-trian countryside. However, its present condition enables you to take a direct glance into the past! The main church is situated at the top of the town, so from its lawn you can enjoy an amaz-ing view of the entire surrounding countryside. Next to the town gate you will see the Salomon palace with still visible remains of frescoes on the ceilings, and the little church of Sveta Marije na Placu (Eng. Saint Mary at the Square) is right across the palace. Frescoes and Glagolitic graf-fiti inside the church date back to the 15th cen-tury, but due to certain symbols on its walls the church is sometimes mentioned in a somewhat mystical context of the Knights Templars and the Freemasons, and even the Illuminati. Note the big stone block with circular holes of various sizes: in the past, the holes were used as meas-ures for grain and liquids. The church’s outer wall is full of iron nails hammered into the stone, as a plea by barren women to Mother Mary to bless them with children. People say that mira-cles were known to happen. We recommend having lunch at Marino (see p. 39), a tavern in front of the church and the palace.

PIĆAN The correct ac-cent is Pićan. The little town seems to have come to life from a fair-ytale, especially if you visit it at the end of July (usually the last week-end in July). You will find yourself surrounded by fairies, dragons, druids, wizards, enchant-resses, and other magical creatures! Legend-fest, a popular festival of myths and legends, has been taking place for years at Pićan at the end of July. Plays, concerts and workshops will be a delight for all generations, from little chil-dren to adults who have managed to keep their imagination alive! More information available at www.legendfest.hr

Gračišće

www.legendfest.hr

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TRIP No. 4:

LIM CHANNEL (Limski kanal) Despite its fjord-like appearance, Lim Channel is not a fjord: it was not formed by glacial activity, but by a pre-historic river which eventually disappeared, mainly due to the rising of the sea level. Nevertheless, the channel successfully posed as a fjord in The Vikings, a movie starring Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis, filmed here in 1958. A 10-kilometer long channel is the finishing part of a 35-kilometer long Limska Draga Hollow. You can take a boat tour of the channel: tourist boats are waiting for visitors in front of the restaurant at the beginning of the channel. The name of the channel is supposedly derived from the Latin word limes, which means border. It is known that in the Ancient Roman times the channel represented a natural border line between the ager of Pula and the ager of Poreč. Numerous ancient artefacts were found at the bottom of the channel, but all of them were found broken. Histori-ans presume that ancient ships used the channel as refuge from violent storms: while waiting for the storm to calm, the crew would undertake a major clean-up and got rid of all the objects that were damaged during the turbulent voyage. And a bonus curiosity for the end: the end of the channel is called Cul da Limo, which means Lim’s Bum.

DVIGRAD Located inside the Limska Draga Hollow near Kanfanar, the castle of Dvigrad has had a turbulent history and eventually slowly died out, gradually remaining without all of its inhabitants. Once upon a time there were two castles (hence the name Dvigrad, or Duo Castra in Latin, meaning Two Castles), but only one of them survived. The castle was built on a high ground at the junction point of a couple of important roads. Due to a strategically excellent location, there was a building at this site already in prehistoric times. As the rulers changed, so did the castle. Today, still standing are the city gate, the defence tower, the remains of numerous houses, and the church of Saint Sophia. The town had as much as 2000 inhabitants at some point; just try to imagine all the life! A relief depicting the symbol of Dvigrad, St. Sophia holding one castle in each hand, can be seen in the parish church in Kanfanar.

SVETVINČENAT The town centre is dominated by the castle, the first thing you notice when you enter Savičenta, as the locals call this town. The green meadow in front of the castle is used as a football court and as venue for numerous events taking place all through the summer, such as the Medieval Fest in August. The castle was once one of the strongholds along the border between the Republic of Venice and the Habsburg Mon-

A tribute to Ancient Rome

and the Republic of Venice

Lim Channel

Dvigrad

Svetvinčenat

21

archy, the present-day border between Žminj and Savičenta districts. Built from a single point prospective, Savičenta historical centre is an exemplar of ideal Renaissance town, a fact which earned the town a place at the Museum of Renaissance in Paris, France. The castle of Savičenta is where Mare the Witch takes place, a sensation play with an actual bonfire and ac-companied by a Renaissance feast for the audi-ence (see pp. 24-25). If you think of it as a dinner accompanied by a fantastic play, it is absolutely worth it! The play is one of nine such sensation plays from the project Istra Inspirit. We recom-mend lunch at Kod kaštela, a tavern just across the castle, at the opposite side of the meadow (see p. 37).

FEŠTINSKO KRALJEVSTVO Local children gave the cave its name (whose name means the Kingdom of Feštini), because in a child’s mind it really does look like a kingdom: full of beautiful, discreetly lit cave ornaments, making a real treat for an imaginative mind. If there are children in the group visiting the cave, they will hear from the King of the Cave (through the hole in the cave’s ceiling – but do not tell them that!). The temperature inside the cave ranges from 13 to 15°C, so by all means bring some warm clothes: a long shirt and trousers, and shoes or sneakers if possible. Despite the summer heat in the outside world, the chill in the under-ground might take you by surprise! The cave is surrounded by a nicely groomed meadow, where you can lay down and rest, have a picnic, or visit the cages with small animals, such as guinea hens, pygmy hens, turtles, etc. There are also various educational boards, such as the story about quartz sand which used to be mined here and then transported to Murano to be turned into Murano Glass. The easiest way to get there is to follow the road signs from Žminj. (for basic information, see p. 9)

ROVINJ Surrounded by little islands, the histori-cal centre itself used to be an island: a channel with a bridge connecting it to the mainland was filled up in 1763, and Rovinj became a penin-

sula. Many people agree that Rovinj is the most beautiful Istrian coastal town, with intimate nar-row streets, art galleries and bars. The seaside houses seem to arise directly from the sea, somewhat reminding of Venice. Visit the Aquar-ium of Rovinj, the oldest in Croatia (located next to the main Parking lot, summer opening hours 09:00-21:00). The museum Batana House is dedicated to a typical local flat-bottomed fish-ing boat and to the way fishermen used to live. The museum even published a cookbook with recipes for old fishermen’s dishes, such as fried sea anemones. Do not miss out on Spacio, a sensation play accompanied by an old-style dinner for the audience. The play is one of nine such sensation plays from the project Istra In-spirit (see pp. 24-25). Saint Euphemia’s Basilica, harbouring the sarcophagus with the saint’s remains, is located at the top of the town. The square in front of the basilica is a perfect place to enjoy the sunset.

Rovinj

22

TRIP No.5:

RAŠA The youngest town in Istria is interesting for two reasons: first, it looks as if it were not in Istria at all; and second, it was built in accord-ance with Mussolini’s planned construction projects, so it has two identical twins: the first is located near Rome, and the other at Sardinia. All three towns were designed by Gustavo Pulitzer Finali, and Raša was built in no more and no less than 547 days. Since the town was built for the needs of mining, it is not surprising that even the town church is shaped like a turned-over mine cart, the bell tower reminds of a mining lamp, and the church itself is dedicated to Saint Barbara, the patroness of miners. The style the town was built in was considered very modern at the time. From a town-planning viewpoint, Raša is considered exemplar of humane archi-tecture: every house consisted of four two-bedroom apartments and had some green surface around it, and the town had a post office, a school, a hotel, a movie theatre, and even a public swimming pool.

TRGET Already the trip to Trget is a unique experience: while driving along the river Raša, you can follow how the river becomes more and more mixed with sea water, watching its colour change before your eyes as you approach the sea. The sandy estuary is home to many bird species. The easiest way to find Trget is to take the road from Barban to Labin, and take a turn at Most Raša following the river Raša towards the sea. Pass the marine border crossing, three large cranes, and even though at this point it will seem you have reached the end, go pass the green sea beacon, across the little bridge, and here you are at Trget! The little fishing village is quite secluded and will be found only by people who know exactly what they are looking for. The search is worth the trouble because here you will find a real gourmet jewel: Martin Pescador (see p. 40), a tavern where you can have a really good lunch.

SWIMMING TIME!!! If you are in the mood for a swim, whether salty or not, there are several possibilities en route. If you wish to freshen up in a river, you can have a swim in the river Raša, just under the bridge at Most Raša. At Trget you can try what swimming is like in brackish water (mixture of salty and fresh water), and if you prefer the sea we recommend you set off to Viškovići, from where you can go to Tunarica camp. The camp will be a good choice for those who like civilized beaches (entrance is free, even by car). On the other hand, if you prefer natural beaches, leave your car at the entrance to the camp and go on for another 250 metres on foot, following the macadam road leading to Hrvatske šume entrance gate.

A salty-sweet trip with memorable views

Trget

23

At the gate turn left, walk for 200 meters, and continue straight ahead onto a narrow passage through the bushes that leads to the sea. There you will find a stony coast and clear water. You can also go to Labin Luka: at the roundabout south of Labin start following road signs, and after about 4 to 5 kilometres you will find a number of uncrowded little beaches.

SKITAČA When you are at Viškovići, turn right and pass through Brovinje village. Do not let the narrow road confuse you: just carry on. After a few kilometres uphill you will reach a wide rest-ing area by the road with a view of the island of Cres, and the entire Kvarner Bay: Rijeka, Učka Mountain and its plateaus, Rabac, Labin, and the other islands. Take your time to explore this beautiful part of Istria, immersed in sound of crickets and aromatic aromas! At the village of Skitača there is a mountain hut where you can have a cup of tea prepared from local herbs (if you find it open). There are also biking and hik-ing trails passing through the area; due to sum-mer heat, we recommend you explore them in the springtime or in the autumn.

LABIN A cobbled street will lead you uphill to the historical centre. At one point, the colourful former mining town of Labin became the Min-ers’ Republic: in 1921, two thousand miners called a general strike, took over the mines, and proclaimed a republic under the motto kova je nasa (the mine is ours), organized their own local government and the red guard as protec-

tion against the fascists, and began managing the mines with the help from local farmers. The Miners’ Republic lasted only for a month; however, Labin Art Republic comes to life every year during July and August. Old squares, streets, and city stairs become a stage, and the sounds of local, classical and jazz music fill up the streets of Labin. You will enjoy the sensation play The Miners’ Republic, one of nine sensa-tion plays from the project Istra Inspirit (see pp. 24-25). After a tour of the old centre climb the bell tower and enjoy the view! If you have enough time and energy you can go to Plomin, a little town 10 kilometres away (towards Rijeka) with an excellent view of the Plomin Bay and the power plant with a huge black pile of coal. Another 2.5 kilometres down the road there is the Flanona hotel, with an unu-sual semi-circle terrace perfect for enjoying the view of Kvarner Bay over a cup of coffee and an excellent cake.

Skitača

Labin

24

ISTRA INSPIRIT

MYTHICAL CREATURES OF ISTRIA - Enjoy an interactive program for children and adults, including sketches, workshops and playrooms with Istrian mythological creatures and legends. While watching a play of the ancient circus that once provided entertainment at fairs with unusual musicians, jugglers, clowns and fakirs, you can try the magic potions of sorceresses and sorcerers and the food of the giant Veli Jože!TICKET PRICE: 100 HRK per person (14 €)LOCATION: Pula, Historical and Maritime Museum of Istria

CRISPO - The year is 326, and Crispo has just returned from war and his father, Constantine the Great, declares him his heir. Fausta, Crispo’s step-mother, tries to seduce him but does not succeed and decides to seek her revenge. This play takes you into the world of Roman plots and intrigues, love, hate and revenge, followed by a feast of dishes made according to ancient Roman recipes.TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)LOCATION: Medulin, Vižula archaeological site

SPACIO - Not so long ago, fishermen would catch fish from their batana (a type of boat), while farmers made wine, after which they would all meet in the Spacio (tavern) and sing about their lives, the sea, the countryside, tales of unhappy loves and happy endings. They would comment every-day events and sometimes, filled with wine and fish, they would quarrel...TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €), LOCATION: Rovinj, Batana Eco museum in the historical centre

MARE THE WITCH - In 1632 Mare Radolovich was a local herbalist and healer who was accused of witchcraft by her neighbours, the same peo-ple that she had healed and helped. They accused her of making a pact with the devil, declared her a witch and condemned her to death by burn-ing at the stake in the castle’s courtyard. Did she survive? Discover the truth at this renaissance feast in a magnificent Venetian fortress...TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)LOCATION: Svetvinčenat, The Grimani-Morosini Castle

THE LIGHTHOUSE OF LOVE - The year 1818 marked the construction of the lighthouse that will later serve as love nest for Count Metternich and his lover, a young woman from Savudrija. Experience the delight of this

Travel through time! Nine experiences, a sea of sensations,

a myriad of flavours, one Istria.

25

forbidden love with the sound of a crackling fire and the fragrances and flavours of love potions. Enjoy the dishes sprinkled with aphrodisiacs and follow the story of two lovers...TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)LOCATION: Savudrija, Lighthouse

IUSTITIA - In the year 1699, the infamous robber Domenico Furlan de-stroyed the tabernacle of the Basilica in Poreč and stole its gold and silver ornaments. At his trial, he was found guilty of this unprecedented act and was executed. Join the people’s celebration of justice served that turns into a baroque celebration...TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)LOCATION: Poreč, Peškera Bay

JULES VERNE: ESCAPE FROM THE CASTLE - In Jules Verne’s novel, in 1867 Mathias Sandorf was preparing a conspiracy for the secession of Hungary from the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. But, he was discovered, and after a trial, was thrown in the Castle of Pazin to await execution. San-dorf and two other conspirators managed to escape from the castle by de-scending the cliff of the Cave of Pazin into its abyss. Enjoy this adrenaline adventure followed by a party, drinks and music from original historical time period.TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)LOCATION: Pazin, the Castle of Pazin

THE MINERS’ REPUBLIC - Take a walk through the year 1921, 150 me-ters below ground, under 20 million tons of stone, where there were no sunlight, sky and perception of time, there was only the darkness... and REVOLUTION! This difficult and touching story about the human strength and pride will reveal the life of miners in one day, from their job to their meals...TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)LOCATION: Labin, Lamparna and the Raša coal mine

OLD BUZET - In an extraordinary surrounding you will experience sounds, flavours and fragrances, talk and music, sights and spirit of the 20th cen-tury and the past times. You will make your bread in the old-fashioned way, learn old dances accompanied by the sound of accordion, double bass and violin, play the game ‘pljočke’, or simply take a walk and discover the streets and squares, old workshops, tasting rooms, wine shops, souvenir shops...TICKET PRICE: 200 HRK per person (27 €)LOCATION: Buzet, historical centre

More information available at www.istrainspirit.hr

26

Going down a long car entrance with a perfectly designed lawn and coming by an orange pension with a swimming pool, one comes across a cottage of the Alla Beccaccia. In Italian beccaccia means snipe, a bird well known to passionate hunters, amongst which group the owners of this facility belong. The tavern is extremely comfortable, with a tastefully rustic style designed interior. The centre of the room is an open fireplace visible from each corner of the room. The menu primarily offers meat dishes, such as venison, quail and, of course, the star of the menu – snipe. The sea food menu will satisfy every-one’s pallet – octopus, cuttlefish risotto or various shell types. Pasta, bread and cake are homemade.

SPECIALTIESLovers of snipe dishes will absolutely adore this tavern and enjoy this speciality. Snipe is best prepared under the bell, however the prepa-rations take 4-5 hours, therefore you should make reservations one day earlier. Try Alla Beccaccia homemade sausage and red chicory stuffed ravioli. From the dessert menu, we suggest you try pears un-der the bell and honey-curd ice-cream.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ....................Marko RadolovićAddress .................. Valbandon, Pineta 25, FažanaPhone .....................052/520-753

Credit Cards ............AllWeb Page ...............www.beccaccia.hrParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours 12:00-24:00, closed on Tuesdays (in August open on Thursdays, too)Closed from 1st November until 30th November

Getting there:Alla Beccaccia is easily found if you start from Fažana towards Pula and follow the road to Valbandon. After 1.5 km, take the left turn next to the Alla Beccaccia tavern sign and enter Pineta street. Go 500 m down the Pineta street and turn left onto the pebbled car entrance to the Alla Beccaccia tavern and pension.

At Snipe’s in hunter’s style

TAVERNS

Alla Beccaccia tavern

ALLA BECCACCIA(VALBANDON)

PRICE RANGE (per first or main course)

NOTE: Price range is based on courses listed by individual portions (not by kg).

30-90 kuna 40-160 kuna 50-200 kuna

27

A family tavern famous for its fish- and seafood-based dishes, lo-cated at Brtonigla, right next to the road from Novigrad to Buje. All food is prepared with their homemade olive oil, produced only for the needs of the restaurant and family members. In the winter the food is prepared on a spacious open fireplace in the main hall. The owner’s son plays the saxophone, so at the bar there is an old saxophone turned into a beer tap. In warm weather you can enjoy the food while sitting at a soft lawn, while in the winter you can choose between sitting near the warm fireplace, or at the bright glazed terrace.

SPECIALTIESThere are not many places where you can get dishes such as codfish fillet in oil, or spider-crab salad. Black risotto at Astarea is excellent, also due to the homemade olive oil used in its preparation. If you are a fan of shellfish, do not miss out on the famous grilled Novigrad kapešante. Kapešante (scallops) from Novigrad area are a well-known delicacy due to their brackish water habitat.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner Anton i Ivan Kernjus Address Ronko 6, BrtoniglaPhone 052/774-384

Credit Cards Maestro, MastercardWeb Page www.konoba-astarea-brtonigla.comParking In front and across the road

Opening Hours: 11:00-23:00 every day Closed: 05th November – 05th December

Getting there:The tavern is located by the road from Novigrad to Buje, almost at the end of Brtonigla.

Great food with juicy anecdotes on the sideASTAREA (BRTONIGLA)

Astarea tavernALLA BECCACCIA

28

What you see first is Pepi the donkey and some geese, then and a large house with a small fountain next to the entrance, and if you gaze any further, you may notice a deer behind a fence. This is not an optical illusion: behind the estate there is a fenced piece of land with 76 deers.The cottage staff consists of the family members only, therefore home atmosphere is luckily unavoidable. It is open throughout the year. Guests can eat the family’s home-grown vegetables from the garden behind the tavern; the tavern is easily seen even from the road. The space at the back of the tavern house has a finely de-signed tree meadow with a gazebo, perfect for various events in the open.

SPECIALTIESThe food is simple and delicious – many local people dine here, which is always a good sign. The owners recommend fuži* with venison, mixed sea shell and lasagne with truffles; in winter they recommend homemade ombolo** and sausages with cabbage (which one can eat throughout the year). In this case particularly, lasagne refers to a range of wide noodles (tagliatelle).

BASIC INFORMATIONOwner ....................Marija PerešaAddress ..................Betiga 114, VodnjanPhone .....................052/528-095 098/420-800

Credit Cards ............AllWeb Page ............... http://goo.gl/fYREsParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours Work days 11:00-21:00 / Weekends 11:00-22:00

Getting there:Betiga is located in the northern part of the famous tourist settlement of Barbariga. The path to Betiga tavern is well marked: just follow the signs and in a few minutes you will be in front of the tavern.

Betiga tavern

BETIGA (BETIGA)

Various animals, including 76 deers!

* Fuži is a traditional Istrian type of pasta.** Ombolo – pork cho-ps without bones, fat and vessels prepared by special recipe.

29

In the very heart of Višnjan, down the main alley, you enter a space where time seems to have stopped. In winter time, food is being prepared before you in the open hearth of the central room; and in summer you can enjoy the shady terrace among thick trees, far from street noise. If you decide to eat at this tavern, you can complete your day by visiting Baredine cave in Nova Vas (5 km west of Višnjan) and Višnjan Astronomical Observatory (placed near Tičan: start towards Karojba and 2 km down the road turn left and proceed for another 600 metres). The tavern is a great place for refreshments if you are exploring the bike trails in the area. The tavern was named after the Bourgogne, dark-skinned grapes sort, and you simply have to taste this wine if you wish to round up the flavour of your entire Višnjan experience.

SPECIALTIESThe offer is rather wide: besides local specialities of the Istrian cuisine, the offer also includes pizza, barbecue, fish and sea shells, and the vegetarian plate. However, the owner whole-heartedly recommends season food and home-made specialities (pasta and maneštra), and, when in season, the so-called giravolta smoked ham - “young” smoked ham prepared on home-made oil and wine.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner Predrag Čendak Address Istarska 10, VišnjanPhone 052/449-290

Credit Cards AllWeb Page NoneParking In front of the facility

Opening Hours: 1st June – 31st August: every day 11:00-23:00 1st September – 31st May: Tue-Sun 11:00-23:00 (MONDAYS closed)

Getting there:Borgonja Tavern is in the very centre of Višnjan.

A hidden corner in the heart of VišnjanBORGONJA (VIŠNJAN)

Borgonja tavern

BETIGA (BETIGA)

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BUŠCINA (BUŠCINA)

When Buščina tavern first opened its door in 1992, the road passing by was still a macadam road (moreover, the war was not exactly favour-able to the development of tourism either). For 20 years this tavern has been building its reputation and good name, based exclusively on the winning combination of homemade food and high quality service. For five years in a row this tastefully decorated tavern exuding warm family atmosphere has been listed among the Top Five Taverns in Istria. In May of 2012 the tavern threw a huge and cheerful party to celebrate its 20th anniversary, as a treat for everyone and anyone who wished to join in.

SPECIALTIESThe tavern offers typical Istrian dishes, made of homemade and seasonal ingredients. Every spring it also participates at the Days of Istrian Asparagus, which means that in addition to the regular offer there are also a few aspara-gus-based menus. Some of the more interest-ing details from these menus are for example asparagus tea, or asparagus ice-cream with olive oil. Try homemade pasta with boškarin stew (Istrian ox) and homemade bread on the side, all prepared in an open fireplace which is lit throughout the year. For true gourmands, we recommend the boškarin carpaccio and truffle cheese, or some of the more unusual dishes such as homemade pasta with donkey stew, or deer steak.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Fabiana MijanovićAddress .................. Buščina 18, UmagPhone ..................... 052/732-088

Credit Cards ........... AllWeb Page ............... www.konoba-buscina.hrParking ................... In front

Opening Hours 12:00-24:00 every day, all year round; Closed on TUESDAYS (in July and August open on Tuesdays, too) Closed throughout January.

Getting there: About 4 km from border crossings of Plovanija-Sečovlje and Kaštel-Dragonja. The easiest way to arrive is from the road Buje – Umag: in Petrovija turn right, towards Vilanija. After about 4.5 km you will see Buščina tavern.

Sophisticated and traditional in a

perfect combination

ˇ ˇ

Buščina tavern

31

Danijeli tavern is located in the village of Danijeli, next to Kringa. A word for the uninformed: Kringa has a vampire story of its own, the one about Jure Grando – the first documented vampire in Europe. Therefore Kringa is home to Jure Grando Museum, Vampir bar where you try one of their vampire cocktails, and vampire literary evenings are held once a month either at Vampir bar or at Danijeli tavern. Whether you believe in vampires or not, a visit to Danijeli tavern will bring you great pleas-ure. You can also order a vampire menu, with dishes from The Vampire Cookbook by B. Perić.If you prefer walking in the daylight, use your time before lunch to visit the Dry Stone Trail, a circular hiking route beginning at Kringa football field. You can add a stone to the centuries-old dry stone walls, thus making a contribution of your own; if you contact the local prefect or Danijeli tavern, you will even get a souvenir certificate. You can also bring your own stone, as many have done already – even from other states.

SPECIALTIESBeing a true countryside tavern, Danijeli does not offer fish; however, you will surely forget about it over a dish of Istrian soup (see note at p. 6), Istrian ox (boškarin) prosciutto in oil, fresh seasonal dishes with homemade pasta, and Istrian maneštra (thick vegetable soup). You can also have the vampire menu, which needs to be ordered in advance.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .....................Mirjana FabrisAddress ..................Danijeli 76, TinjanPhone .....................091/6866-588

Credit Cards.............NoneWeb Page ...............NoneParking ................... In front

Opening Hours TUES-FRI 14:00-23:00, SAT 13:00-02:00, SUN 12:00-24:00 (closed on MONDAYS, and from 10th to 31st January)

Getting there:Take the main road Pazin–Poreč, turn left by the Na kapeli tavern, and after 6 kilometres you will get to Kringa. Pass through Kringa and pro-ceed; the main road will lead you to the village of Danijeli, where you will see Danijeli tavern on your right.

Danijeli tavern

Asparagus omelette

Vampire-style gourmet mealDANIJELI (NEAR KRINGA)

32

EMA (VRANJA)

As you can see from its opening hours, this tavern is always busy. The clientele consists mostly in local people, and an occasional well-informed tourist. In winter time, food is prepared on the tavern’s open hearth; but the hearth works even in the summer when meat is roasting under the bell. The atmosphere is truly relaxing and homey. The nearby Vranjska draga canyon and Učka Nature Park provide an opportu-nity to spend an active day with a touch of the local cuisine. Ema Tavern will make you feel at home in no time.

SPECIALTIESIf you would like to try kid meat roasted under the bell, you should call the tavern a day in advance; the preparation takes several hours, but the meal is worth the planning. Home-made sausages in wine and Istrian “maneštra s bobići” (pasta with baby corn) also make delicious home-made meal. You should try Istrian ravioli: stuffed with cheese and covered in smoked ham sauce.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ....................Suzana AjklerAddress .................. Vranja 29a, LupoglavPhone .....................052/685-372

Credit Cards ............AllWeb Page ...............NoneParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours: Mon-Thu 07:00-23:00 Fri 07:00-01:00 Sat-Sun 07:00-02:00 Tue CLOSED

Getting there:At the entrance to the Učka tunnel, on the Istrian side, get off the highway on the Vranja exit, then continue in the S-E direction and turn left approx. 1.8 km later. Turn left again 400 m later. In approx. 500 m you will see the signs to the Ema Tavern. It is located at the entrance into the town.

Hidden under the Istrian YEma tavern

Vranjska Draga, a.k.a. Vela Draga

33

EMA (VRANJA)

The location alone invites you to come and sit down: the tavern is situated on Motovun town walls, right next to the town loggia between the two town gates. The tavern has no connection with its famous namesake, a coffee bar which used to stand at the foot of the town, well-known to all who used to visit the Motovun Film Festival during its first decade. However, apart from the name, what the two also have in common are the friendly staff, and a cosy ambience. The view of the river Mirna, Oprtalj, Grožnjan, and the surrounding hills can be enjoyed either from the terrace or from the nicely decorated interior. Just as it is written on the outside pricelist: Look for the tav-ern with red tablecloths!

SPECIALTIESIn addition to the unavoidable Istrian maneštra, you can also try homemade sausages in teran wine, or beefsteak in red wine sauce. The tavern offers a num-ber of classical dishes with truffles, but also some unusual ones such as truffle soup and black truffle pancakes. For des-sert, try the pears in teran wine. There is also a kids menu.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..........................Marko FakinAddress ........................Trg Josefa Ressela 4, MotovunPhone ...........................052/681-598 092/14 20 092, 092/23 94 400

Credit Cards ...............NoneWeb Page ...................NoneParking .......................None (the town is for pedestrians only)

Opening Hours: 12:00-21:00 every day (open from 01st April to 15th November)

Getting there:Leave the car at the big parking lot at the foot of the hill or the smaller one up the hill, next to the graveyard. Parking is charged at all parking lots. Walk along a cobbled street uphill; when you reach the first town gate go on straight towards the second gate. The last tavern before the second town gate is Fakin tavern (with red table-cloths).

FAKIN (MOTOVUN)

Great food and great view from Motovun

town walls... What more is there to say.

Fakin tavern

The second Motovun city gate

34

The tavern was named after the area in which it was built, which offers so many possibilities: the spacious lawn has chil-dren’s playground; and there is a huge roof-covered space by the lawn planned for larger events, such as weddings and conferences, which has a stage for perfor-mances in the open, as well. The atmos-phere is relaxed and homey, thanks to the owners’ open personality and their love for what they do. After a meal, you can take a walk to the old town of Kršan, a castle rarely in the sight of tourists. Zagrad is closely by, and old town in the village of Kožljag. The owners will be happy to inform you how to reach these places.

SPECIALTIESAll the food in this tavern is home-made: pasta and bread are made in the tavern, and grocer-ies such as eggs, meat and vegetables are provided by the neighbours. Groceries for winter provisions also come from the neighbourhood area: mushrooms, asparagus etc. The owners take special pride in their maneštre, cooked for about 7-8 hours in order for the flavours to get intertwined a whole lot more. In winter time try their home-made sausages. Meals under the bell and roasted meat are baked on the open hearth in front of the guests, except in summer due to the heat. The owner recommends veal under the bell.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .......................Ljubica BojanićAddress .....................Kršan 26, KršanPhone........................052/863-259

Credit Cards ..............AllWeb Page .................www.konoba-hacienda-starestaze.hrParking......................In front of the facility

Opening Hours 1st July-30th September: every day 12.00-24:001st October-30th June: closed on TUESDAYS, (if Tuesday is a holiday, such as Labour Day, the tavern is open)

Getting there:The tavern is located in Kršan, only 100 m north from the Plomin-Pazin road. It is only 4 km dis-tanced from Plomin, and 11 km from Labin. The way to the tavern is well marked by road signs.

Everything from the Neighbourhood

HACIENDA

STARE STAZE (KRŠAN)

Hacienda Stare staze

35

This tavern has positioned itself as first neighbour to the gate of Hum, the smallest town in the world. The town consists of two streets and three lines of houses, making it highly unlikely for any newcomer to get lost in it. In 2001 population census, the town was inhabited by only 17 residents; in 2008 a new resident was born, which immediately increased the population by 5.9%. The town itself has preserved its original shape, and certain old customs are worth attending, such as: county prefect election on the Day of Hum, festival of local brandy, etc. Easy breeze almost always feels fine on the guests’ skin on the Hum Tavern charming terrace; enjoying the view over the surrounding hills, tamed sparrows here and there trying to catch food crumbs; and rustic atmosphere completed with amazing food. The town has a souvenir shop, Imela, where you can choose between various figurines, differ-ent sorts of brandy and unusual gastro-souvenirs such as sage jam. Make sure you take the tour round the town!

SPECIALTIESThere are very few, but exquisite local dishes, such as homemade pasta with veal stew. If you are in a mood for true Istrian cuisine, try maneštra with corn and sausage.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner......................Aleksandar MerlakAddress ...................Hum 2, RočPhone ......................052/660-005

Credit Cards ............AllWeb Page ................http://goo.gl/zTLkgParking ...................No

(Leave your car in the parking lot at the town entrance) Parking charges: personal car 10 HRK/dayOpening Hours: 11:00-22:00 every day (15th May – 15th October) 15th November – 15th March closed on Saturdays and Sundays 15th March – 15th May and 15th October – 15th November closed on Mondays

Getting there:Driving down the road from the Učka tunnel towards Buzet, take the turn to Hum. That turn is opposite to the turn for Roč. Keep further down the road (Aleja glagoljaša) for approximately 6.4 km until you have reached Hum. Leave your car on the parking lot and start to-wards the town gate, some hundred metres further. Next to the town gate, you will see the Hum Tavern (Humska konoba) sign.

A Small Tavern in the Smallest Town in the WorldHUMSKA KONOBA

(HUM)

Humska konoba

36

Kažeta tavern is located right next to the road, but as soon as you enter it everything changes and it seems as if you have entered a dif-ferent world: more peaceful, intimate, remote. The owners personally restored the old, ruinous family house back to life, and most details there are their own handiwork. The tavern has a spacious roofed-over terrace with solid-wood tables, while in the wintertime the fire from the open fireplace sheds light all over the interior room. There is also a separate room with a large table perfect for a bigger group, coved by a ceiling with stars painted on it. The entire tavern is full of lovely old things and lovely details.

SPECIALTIESLocal Istrian cuisine is avail-able all year long, such as young corn maneštra (thick vegetable soup), homemade Istrian pasta pljukanci with asparagus and prosciutto, or the Kažeta-style beefsteak (stuffed with prosciutto and cheese). Due to a constant supply of fresh snails from a farm in Matulji, you can also try several snail dishes.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Julijana Brljafa Address .................. Kadumi 4, PorečPhone ..................... 052/460-615

Credit Cards ........... AllWeb Page ............... www.istrabiz.hr/detalji.php?KB=132405133Parking ................... In front

Opening Hours 01st May – 30th September: MON-SAT 08:00-23:00 - SUN 12:30-23:00 01th October – 30th April: MON 08:00-15:00 - TUE-SAT 08:00-23:00 SUN 12:30-23:00

Getting there:The tavern is located right by the main road from Pazin to Poreč, about 4.5 km before Poreč.

KAŽETA (KADUMI)

Bliss alongside the main road

Kažeta tavern

37

KAŽETA (KADUMI)

Kod kaštela (At the Castle) tavern is situated next to a green meadow in front of the Castle of Svetvinčenat (called Savičenta among the lo-cals). The friendly personnel are full of information about the surround-ing area and the events you can participate in. The shady terrace is facing the Castle, once one of the strongholds along the border line between the Republic of Venice and the Habsburg Monarchy, which is now the district line separating Žminj and Svetvinčenat. Svetvinčenat historical centre is an exemplar of an ideal Renaissance town: built from a single point prospective and therefore introduced into the Museum of Renaissance in Paris.

SPECIALTIESApart from fish and meat dishes, Kod kaštela tavern also offers a range of typical Is-trian dishes such as corn and chickpea maneštra, homemade pasta with game or hen stew, and seasonal dishes. We rec-ommend you taste their mushroom platter (porcini, chantarelles, trooping funnel mushrooms, etc.) in the autumn, while fresh porcini mush-rooms from Gorski kotar are available all year long. And for dessert: have a piece of their ex-cellent apple strudel, or pancakes which come in three-piece servings!

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..................... Villi Bašić Address ..................Svetvinčenat 53, SvetvinčenatPhone .....................052/560-012

Credit Cards ............ Visa, Maestro, MasterCard, American ExpressWeb Page ...............NoneParking ................... In front

Opening Hours: 10:00-23:00 every day (food orders until 22:00) (15th October-01st May until 21:30)

Getting there:Savičenta is located at the road from Žminj to Vodnjan and Pula. Hav-ing entered the town, follow the road signs leading you to Kod kaštela tavern. As soon as you see the Castle (you cannot miss it) you will know the tavern is just across.

Across the way from a medieval castleKOD KASTELATAVERN

(SVETVINCENAT)ˇ

ˇ

Tavern Kod Kaštela

38

Loggia tavern is situated in the very heart of the colourful little town of Oprtalj, under the town loggia. A small, simple terrace with a few tables and a charming homey interior form the perfect ambience in which to enjoy the tavern’s simple and excellent food. Homemade food all year round is just one of the advantages this tavern has to offer. Bigger groups can have their lunch organized in the town loggia. The family who owns the tavern also has a local homemade products boutique about 50 meters from the tavern, where you can sample and buy, as a gastronomic souvenir, various sorts of wine and rakija, meat products, cheese, honey, etc. The shop can be visited whenever the tavern is open: you only need to tell one of the tavern employees you would like to visit the shop, and someone will take you there right away. During truffle season you can call the tavern to see whether there is a group scheduled for a truffle hunting demonstration which you can then join in. The demonstration takes about two hours and it will satisfy your curiosity about this underground delicacy.

SPECIALTIESOprtalj and Livade area being one of the richest truffle habitats in the world, this tavern offers a range of truffle dishes. The owner recom-mends the Istrian platter (a plate containing Istrian smoked ham, sau-sage, steak, cutlet, sheep cheese, and truffle flavoured cheese), served all year long. Also worth mentioning are the nettle-filled ravioli, and the dessert is the one and only: the sweet raviolo, a pasta casing filled with fig jam and coated in teran wine chateau. The owner says everybody orders the sweet raviolo, so there is no need to introduce other desserts. All of the above will be nicely rounded up with their homemade wine.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ....................Daniel CoslovichAddress ..................Matka Laginje bb, OprtaljPhone .....................052/644-219

Credit Cards ...........NoneWeb Page ...............NoneParking ...................None

Opening Hours: 01st April – 30th October 10:00-24:00 every day 01st November – 31st March closed on TUESDAYS 07th -31st January closed

Getting there:Take the road Buzet–Motovun and turn north, towards Livade village. At the roundabout in Livade pass straight and proceed on the winding road uphill for another 6.5 km. In Oprtalj leave the car at the parking lot next to the red coloured town loggia, visible from the town entrance. Loggia tavern is situated at the opposite side of the loggia.

Hidden under the town loggiaLOGGIA (OPRTALJ)

Loggia tavern

39

LOGGIA (OPRTALJ)

Situated across Solomon palace and the town gate, the tavern is listed in Lonely Plan-et’s Western Balkans travel guide. A town plan painted at its outer wall will be helpful if you wish to take a tour of Gračišće. The tavern and the town are inseparably linked, so let us men-tion the amazing view from the lawn of the nearby main church, and the little church of Sveta Marija na Placu (St. Mary at the Market) right next to the tavern. Frescoes and Glagolitic graffiti inside the church date back to the 15th century, but due to certain symbols on its walls the church is sometimes mentioned in a some-what mystical context of the Knights Templars and the Freemasons, and even the Illuminati. Note the big stone block with circular holes of different sizes – the holes were used as measures for grain and liquids. Inside the tavern there are many old items, such as old dishes, baskets, a wagon, harness, furniture, and an old open fireplace, lit most of the year (except in the summer, naturally). By that fireplace you will feel the very special atmosphere of Marino tavern and the little town of Gračišće.

SPECIALTIESSuggestion: if you still have not tried the Istrian soup (see note at p. 6), Marino provides the ideal ambiance to try Istrian field labourers’ traditional beverage (or meal?). Warmed up teran wine with olive oil, a bit of pepper and spices is served with fire roasted bread, and will instantly warm you up on a cold winter day. If you are in the mood for genuine Istrian cooking, a corn maneštra (thick vegetable soup) and homemade pasta with game stew will be the right choice. In the winter regain your strength with some homemade sausages and smoked pork fillet.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .....................Svetlana BuljanAddress ..................Gračišće 75, GračišćePhone .....................052/687-081

Credit Cards ............NoneWeb Page ...............www.konoba-marino-gracisce.hrParking ...................Park outside the town, near the town gate

Opening Hours: 14:00-23:00, closed on WEDNESDAYS - (14:00-22:00 in the winter)

Getting there:Gračišće is 8 km away from Pazin (a 10-minute drive). Start from Pazin, taking the road towards Vozilići and Brestova ferry port. When you reach Gračišće town walls, leave your car outside the walls. Walk through the town gate and you will be right in front of Marino tavern.

Marino tavern

MARINO (GRACIŠCE)

A trip down memory lane

ˇ ´

40

The tavern named after a local bird is located at a small, secluded village of Trget in the Raša river estuary. The terrace is at the coast, and the shellfish and lobsters caught nearby are kept in the sea in front of it. The personnel are also fishermen so the fish is always fresh, and what you see at the platter really is what you will get on your plate. The inside bar was made from an old boat, and numerous old marine things and gadgets add to the overall maritime atmosphere of the tavern. You will only find Trget if you are specifically looking for it. Enjoy the great food, the relaxing atmosphere, and the sound of waves wrinkling the brackish water of Raša estuary...

SPECIALTIESFish and seafood! Their seafood risotto, made with seafood caught in or near the channel, is well known among the connoisseurs. If you are in the mood for excellent local sea cuisine, this is the place to be! They also have a kids menu.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner........................Patrik Vlačić Address .....................Trget 11a, RašaPhone ........................052/544-976

Credit Cards ..............AllWeb Page ..................NoneParking ......................In front

Opening Hours 12:00-23:00 every day (01st September – 30th April: closed on MONDAYS)

Getting there:The easiest way to find Trget is to take the road from Barban to Labin. Take a turn at Most Raša following the sign for Luka Raša. Continue along the river Raša, towards the sea. Pass by a marine border crossing (do not worry, you do not need a passport), three large cranes, across a little bridge by a green sea beacon, and here you are at Trget! Another 400 meters down the road you will see Martin Pescador tavern right in front of you.

A real fishing tavern in a real fishing village

(TRGET)MARTIN PESCADOR

Tavern Martin Pescador

41

MORGAN (BRTONIGLA)

On a hill surrounded by vineyards

Relax and enjoy on one of the most beautiful terraces in Istrian countryside! Spend a summer afternoon at a shady hilltop enjoying the light breeze and the sound of crickets, or a cold winter day in a charming interior where you can enjoy delicious Istrian cuisine and a rich wine list all year long. The tavern is far enough from the usual tourist routes to provide you with a true countryside atmosphere, and yet close enough to be easily reached by car or by bike. A neat macadam road will lead you to a tree with a swing, and a tavern at the hilltop. A nicely groomed little park will direct you towards an airy terrace with a view of the surrounding hills and vineyards. Chil-dren will be cheered up by a couple of cute, well-mannered dogs, and a number of sheep and a donkey grazing in a fenced area about 50 metres from the tavern.

SPECIALTIESLike many other countryside taverns, Morgan does not serve fish dishes, but rather local meat dishes, especially game. Try the roasted rooster, or boškarin (Istrian ox) brasato: the meat is baked in a pot, which takes about 4-5 hours. Many of the groceries you will get here were grown by the Morgan family them-selves, such as vegetables, chicken, and lamb.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ....................... Darinka i Ana MorganAddress .................... Bracanija 1, BrtoniglaPhone ....................... 052/774-520

Credit Cards .............. AllWeb Page: ................ www.konoba-morgan.euParking ..................... In front

Opening Hours: all year long 12:00-22:00, closed on TUESDAYS

Getting there:Take the road from Novigrad to Buje. About a kilometre after Brto-nigla, which is about 3.5 km before Buje, turn right (towards east) to a smaller road, and then a macadam road which will lead you directly to Morgan tavern.

Morgan tavern

42

Once the guests see the prosciutto,

they cannot resist it! (Nevio Šegon, Owner)

NA KAPELI (MILINKI)

Located across the chapel it was named after, this lively and busy tav-ern never closes its doors. By agreement with the District of Tinjan, the tavern’s food offer is based exclusively on homemade local products from the district of Tinjan. Na kapeli thus became a great example of promotion of local products such as local prosciutto (smoked ham), various kinds of cheese, rakija (biska – mistletoe rakija, or medica – honey rakija), etc. With advanced notification you can participate at a prosciutto production presentation projection in one of five languages (Croatian, English, Italian, German, and Russian). Due to exclusive local products use, this tavern has appeared on several occasions on TV shows such as Fruits of the Earth, etc. In the winter the food is prepared at an open fireplace indoors, and in the summer outdoors. On Thursdays and Sundays 20:00-23:00, from 15th June on and throughout the summer, you can participate in folklore dances at the tavern’s terrace.

SPECIALTIESThe tavern offers excellent food made under a baking lid, called peka, served with homemade bread and pasta made at the tavern. Since the District of Tinjan is officially known as the District of Istrian Prosciutto, do not miss out on sampling the products of some of the four prosciutto produc-ers from Tinjan: Dujmović, Antolović, Radetić, Milohanić. If you are unable to resist it, try all four and choose your favourite! Depending on the time of the year, try the seasonal dishes prepared with mushrooms (porcini and trooping funnel mushrooms), asparagus, or sausages. Every day from 10:00 to 14:00 you can have a genuine worker’s lunch menu.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ...........................Nevio ŠegonAddress ........................Milinki 146, TinjanPhone ...........................052/626-318, 091/219-8903

Credit Cards ..................All, except DinersWeb Page: www.epazin.info/konoba-na-kapeli/Parking .........................In front

Opening Hours: 07:00-24:00 every day, all year round (The kitchen is open until 23:00)

Getting there:The tavern is located at the main road leading from Pazin to Poreč, 13 km from Pazin.

43

One of the most widely recommended family taverns carries the name of the owner’s grandfather, a joyous person who used to cheer everybody up. The owners have really put and effort to provide quality time for children and grownups, both: you will enjoy fabulous local cui-sine and cosy rustic ambiance, while the children enjoy the children’s menu and the outside playing area. In front of the tavern, there is a fenced meadow with children’s playground (swings, slides) and a whole bunch of animals - a real little petting zoo! Kids can have fun playing with rabbits, chickens, ducks, guinea fowls, brown bullheads, sheep, goats and a donkey, and there is always an adult present to take care of the children and the animals. This “little farm” exists precisely because of the children. The tavern has two hearths, one inside and the other one outside, both used for preparation of grilled meals and meals under the bell (čripnja). On account of numerous guests, this tavern is one of the rare places with dishes under the bell prepared on daily basis, so the guests do not have to order their meals in advance. The dishes in the summer and the winter menu are adjusted to seasonal groceries.

SPECIALTIESYou can try several dishes made from boškarin (Istrian cattle): boškarin carpaccio, grilled boškarin or boškarin stew, and boškarin liver paté. Veal, lamb or kid meat under the bell are always a good choice. The owner recommends Nono ravioli with fresh cheese stuffing, in sauce of smoked ham, salad rocket (arugula) and chicory; and Nona cake; and curd and figs cake for dessert.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..................... Edi ProdanAddress ..................Petrovija, Umaška 35 Phone .....................052/740-160

Credit Cards ............AllWeb Page ...............www.konoba-nono.comParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours: 11:00-23:00 1st May-30th September every day 1st October-30th April Mondays CLOSEDThe last two weeks in January we are closed; better to phone and check before coming.

Getting there:The Nono Tavern is in Petrovija, on the main road from Umag to Buje. It is 3 km from Umag. Should you arrive from Buje, take the turn in Juricani and follow the signs for Petrovija and Umag; and keep on straight for another 3.5 km where you will see a large pebbled parking lot and the tavern.

NONO (PETROVIJA)

Gourmet for the grownups, childlike for

the children: to each their own

The inner hearth

44

This is in fact an actual restaurant, but it had to be named snack-bar as well due to its open-type kitchen, where the guests can see the process of food preparation and even ask for culinary advice. The res-taurant owes its name to napa (Eng. hood; Pod napun means Under the fireplace hood), originally a little roof over the fireplace, tradition-ally a place where families would gather round. In order to enter the restaurant you must first walk through the Ethno-shop Ča, offering local products and a chance to see lots of old local things, including a bed with old linens. The restaurant has a magnificent two-floor ter-

race which seems to be hanging from the town walls, giving you a between-the-sky-and-the-ground kind of feeling. The terrace is 200 metres above sea level; after the rain, when the air is at its clearest, visibility can be up to 50 kilometres.

SPECIALTIESApart from numerous truffle dishes, there is also a wide array of canapés (with truffles, olives, anchovy, etc.) for those in a mood for a little bit of everything, and olive oils degustations. There is also a vegetarian menu. The owner recommends the wild herbs omelette, and ladvenica in teran wine sauce (ask the waiter what kind of meat that is).

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Livio LančaAddress .................. Gradiziol 33, MotovunPhone ..................... 052/681-767

Credit Cards ........... AllWeb Page ............... www.antique-motovun.com.hrParking None (the town is for pedestrians only)

Opening Hours 20.03.-01.05.TUE-SUN 12:00-22:00, Closed on MON 20.12.-06.01.UTO-NED 12:00-22:00, Closed on MON 01.05.-15.11. every day 12:00-22:00 (the ethno shop is open 10:00-22:00, so you can have a drink at the terrace of the restaurant before noon, too)

Getting there:Leave the car at the big parking lot at the foot of the hill or the smaller one up the hill, next to the graveyard. Parking is charged at all parking lots. Walk along a cobbled street uphill; after about a hundred metres or so you will see the Ethno-shop Ča on your left. Pass through the shop and you will be at the restaurant/snack-bar Pod napun

POD NAPUN (MOTOVUN)

A living gastro-ethno museum between

the sky and the ground

Tavern Pod napun

45

This gourmet pearl, known only to the well-informed, is hidden in the little town of Momjan, part of the first wine road of Istria. This vineyard area around Momjan – also called the Momjanština – is known as the Empire of the Muscat, a specific sweet aroma wine. There used to be even 25 winemak-ers in this area, but the owner of this tavern is one of the five remaining winemakers in Momjan nowadays. The Tartufo Vero Certifi-cate award and Certificate of the Agency for Rural Development of Istria award for the offer of boškarin (Istrian cattle) guarantee that here you will dine meals with true Istrian truffle and true boškarin. Relax on the cosy terrace or in the interior of the tavern by the hearth. After lunch, you can take a walk to the little yellow church on the hill, distanced only 500 m away from the tavern, with an exquisite view of the Momjanština and the sea.

SPECIALTIESThe tavern’s offer specialises in the specific Istrian local cuisine, so apart from the truffle and boškarin, one can always grab a meal of fine Istrian maneštra and home-made pasta with veni-son. But when in Momjan… Make sure you don’t miss a glass of Momjan Muscat! The wine produced by Prelac family can be bought here. Also, they produce their own olive oil.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ....................Rino PrelacAddress ..................Dolinja Vas 23, Momjan Phone .....................052/779-170

Credit Cards ...........AllWeb Page ...............www.prelac.hrParking ...................Near the facility

Opening Hours: Wed-Mon 12:00-22:00 (Tues CLOSED)Annual leave at the end of January and June. Call to announce your arrival.

Getting there:Upon arrival to Momjan, continue along the same road in direction of the yellow church on the hill above the village. At its end, across the football field, you will find the Rino Tavern.

RINO (MOMJAN)

From one hill to another directly to a gourmet pearl

The view from the yellow church from the text

46

This tavern is actually a gourmet restaurant located in Rovinj’s his-torical centre, perfect for relaxation. The interior is airy and light, and the terrace is calm and relaxing. The tables at the terrace are located at a wider part of Sv. Križ Street, but quite removed from the people passing by.

SPECIALTIESThe restaurant combines traditional groceries in somewhat unusual ways: not radically experimental, but simply a little different. For exam-ple, try the gilthead bream fillet with orange, sea bass fillet with black olives, smoked seafood risotto, or gnocchi in vodka and gorgonzola cream sauce.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Dean CerinAddress .................. Sv. Križ 11, RovinjPhone ..................... 052/842-240 091/27 27 226

Credit Cards ........... All except Diners i Am ExWeb Page ............... NoneParking ................... None (leave your car at the parking lot outside Rovinj’s historical centre)

Opening Hours 01st April – 30th September: every day, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-24:00 Closed 01st October – 31st March)

Getting there:The tavern is located in Rovinj’s historical centre, in a street parallel with the water-front. Come to the fountain in the centre of the square next to the main, biggest pier in the port. A street parallel with the waterfront will take you by the Adriatic hotel and straight towards the historical centre. After about 100 metres you will came to Sv. Križ street, and Santa Croce tavern at No. 11 (a little square).

Tavern Santa Croce

SANTA CROCE (ROVINJ)

And now… Something a little different.

47

Buzet has been declared the Town of Truffles, and the Stara oštarija Restaurant is determined to justify the name: most of the courses on this restaurant’s menu contain truffle. The res-taurant is located in the old town core on the hill, and offers traditional, rustic atmosphere. Every year in the place called Livade the month of October brings the “Days of the Truffle” with an organised truffle market, where truffles can be bid-ded for; whereas the last weekend in October the “Days of the Truffle” moves to Buzet. The restaurant takes part in the Subotina po starinski, a colourful folk fiesta taking place in the old town core on the occasion of Nativity of the Virgin Mary holiday for years. Buzet itself looks like an island rising from the fields of Mirna river valley. Due to such configuration, but to the nearby Raspadalica (one of the most beautiful starting points for paragliders and kites) as well, this site makes a popular destination for paragliders. Should you be so lucky, you will have the chance to see them circling over the town.

SPECIALTIESMost of the courses contain truffle, and desserts sound really special: hot Buzet cake with truffle, Buzet ice-cream (with truffle and home-made olive oil); panna cotta with truffle honey. If you are not a truffle enthusiast, there are many dishes without truffles as well.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .....................Robert MarušićAddress ..................Petra Flega 5, Buzet Phone .....................052/694-003

Credit Cards ............AllWeb Page ...............www.stara-oštarija.com.hrParking ...................None (Park your car on the parking lot outside the old town core.)

Opening Hours: Fri-Sat 12:00-21:00 / Sun-Thurs 12:00-17:001st October-1st June closed on Tuesdays / January and February – closed

Getting there:The Stara oštarija Restaurant is located in the old town core. Take the road up the hill towards the old town core and leave your car on the parking lot, then continue on foot for another 250 metres to the south town gate. After the gate, take the next left into Petar Flego Street and go on to the end of the street. You will find the restaurant at number 5.

STARA OŠTARIJAˇEverything in the sign of truffles

SANTA CROCE (ROVINJ)

(BUZET)

White truffle

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“Cok” means “tree stump” in Croatian, and there sits one by the tavern entrance: the owners had found it before starting building the house. This local tavern of cosy and relaxing atmosphere primar-ily entertains the locals, and more informed guests such as hunters. All the food is being prepared on the open hearth, and there is the baker’s oven in the yard. The food is home-made, seasonal and fresh. The owners have a pig farm, and make their own sausages, dry om-bolo and smoked ham. If you wish, you can bake the sausages and ombolo yourself on the hearth inside the tavern. Since hunters are frequent guests, the tavern prepares food for their dogs as well. Near Valtura there is a place called Nezakcij, famous for its archaeological site worth visiting.

SPECIALTIESThe tavern offers autochthonous food of the rural Istria: sausages or ombolo with cabbage, home-made maneštra (different each time), home-made pasta with chick-en, or venison or edible bolete stew, with bread from the baker’s oven. You can have meat under the bell (čripnja), however, as you know, the meat preparation takes a few hours, therefore it would be best if you made arrangements in advance. For dessert you’ll have a traditional Istrian dish: fritule and kroštule.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Suzana KaićAddress .................. Valtura 70, PulaPhone ..................... 0052/550-501

Credit Cards ........... NoneWeb Page ............... NoneParking ................... By the facility

Opening Hours: Every day 09:00-23.00(Throughout the year, except during annual leave in September – best to make a phone call to inquire before arriving.)

Getting there:Follow the signs for the Pula Airport, then at the Airport entrance just keep further down the same road towards Valtura where you will come across the yellow church and a store. Turn right when next to the store for another 100 m. Stari cok will be on your left hand side.

Tavern Stari cok

STARI COK (VALTURA)

A true local tavern

The owner bakes the bread herself

49

The small village of Kolinasi has only three households, one of them being the Valter-Kolinasi Tavern. It is situated at the beginning of the street called Aleja glagoljaša. You can reach it by car, or you can leave your car next to the main road crossroads, and continue by bike or on foot. This tavern serves its excellent famous home-made food. The stone house has been decorated in rustic style; you can sit inside or on the terrace, which will make you feel as if you’re sitting in the back yard of the entire village. If you continue down the Aleja glagoljaša, you will reach Kotli, and further down the road, Hum – the world’s smallest town. You can take a bike ride down the whole Aleja glagoljaša, that way spending and active day in this tranquil and gorgeous countryside.

SPECIALTIESAs the owner himself says, “Ten meals and that’s it!”, or in other words - the tavern specialises in home-made local cuisine dishes. After the cold hors-d’oeuvre of cow cheese with truffle, smoked ham and genuine local maneštra, you can decide whether to have stewed venison, chicken or beef; or to try any of the season dishes made from the local groceries (asparagus, mushrooms, etc.); or roasted cow cheese might just interest you as well. The owner especially recommends home-made sausages with cabbage, or segedin (cabbage stew). On this list of home-made food, you will find wine of the Dragutska vala wine makers.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..................... Valter Glavić Address ..................Kolinasi 13/1, Roč Phone .....................052/666-624

Credit Cards ............AllWeb Page ...............www.konoba-kolinasi.hrParking ...................By the facility

Opening Hours: Wed-Mon 12:00-22.00 / Tuesdays CLOSED Closed for a week between August and September (This year: 26th Aug.-1st Sep.)

Getting there:Take the road from the Učka tunnel towards Buzet and turn towards Hum. The turn is opposite the turn for Roč. Some 400 m after the crossroad, you will see a sign for the tavern leading left to a side-way. Another 400 m later, you will be standing in front of the Kolinasi Tavern.

VALTER (KOLINASI)

Ten meals and that’s it! (Valter Glavic)STARI COK (VALTURA)

´

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The tavern is located in a house which was once a part of the town gate. Therefore the tavern, which stands at the entrance to a charm-ing medieval little town of Beram, got the name Vela vrata (Eng. The Grand Gate). You can choose between a comfortable interior and a roofed-over terrace with a view of the surrounding fields and the thick green forests of the Istrian countryside. The relaxing ambiance fills you up with pleasure and makes you lose track of time. After dinner you can take a walk through the town or visit the famous little church of Sveta Marija na Škriljinah (St. Mary of the Rocks), famous for Vincent of Kastav’s fresco the Dance of Death. If you wish to visit the church you should call Tinjan Parish Office (+385-52-626-016) or the key keeper, Mrs Sonja Šestan, at the address Beram 38 (+385-52-622-903), at least half an hour in advance. You can also ask the personnel of the tavern for help with the key.

SPECIALTIESThe offer consists of typical Istrian countryside dishes, made exclu-sively with local seasonal groceries, such as fresh truffles, mush-rooms, asparaguses, wild game, and homemade pasta. Excellent sausages are available when it is their season, i.e. from St. Martin’s Day (11th November) until the beginning of March. Vegetables are from the family’s own garden. You can also taste homemade Mal-vasia from Beram.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Sandro JurčićAddress .................. Beram 41, PazinPhone ..................... 091/781-4995

Credit Cards ........... All, except AmExWeb Page ............... NoneParking ................... In front

Opening Hours 11:00-24:00; kitchen is open until 22:00 Closed on Mondays (except from 07th July to 30th August, when the tavern closes on Sundays instead of Mondays) Closed for two weeks in January – call and check.

Getting there:Take the road from Pazin to Poreč, and turn towards Beram. Follow the winding road up-hill, all the way to the town centre. The tavern is located at the very entrance to the histori-cal centre, on your left.

Satisfy your palate and enjoy the

wonderful view

VELA VRATA (BERAM)

Tavern Vela vrata

51

VELI JOŽE (ROVINJ)

Just like the story of Veli Jože, this tavern will not leave you cold. At the entrance you will be greeted by an old diver leaned against the bar (that is, an old diving-suit), introducing you into an interior filled with antiques and curious items. One of the walls is covered in old musical instruments, and the piano in the corner is still in function – just say you would like to play something, and everybody will be hap-py to hear some live music. The tavern is especially recommended to those who pay attention to music when they choose a place to eat. If you are in a mood to eat outdoors, there is also a terrace located in a cheerful street just outside the tavern, where you will feel like you are merging with the dynamics of this charming and colourful little town.

SPECIALTIESAs the owner puts it, Why complicate things? Meat, seafood, and fish dishes (except tuna) are prepared using quality ingredients and cooked in simple, well-tried ways. The owner takes fish and seafood from the local fishermen. Various kinds of Adriatic fish are prepared also al cartoccio (baked in paper). There is also grilled food, but no pizza.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..........................Ivan ŠverkoAddress ........................Sv. Križ 1, RovinjPhone ...........................052/816-337 098/366-785

Credit Cards .................AllWeb Page .....................NoneParking .........................None (leave your car at the parking lot outside Rovinj historical centre)

Opening Hours: 11:00-01:00 every day (Closed 15th January – 15th March)

Getting there:The tavern is located in Rovinj’s historical centre, in a street parallel with the water-front. Come to the fountain in the centre of the square next to the main, biggest pier in the port. A street parallel with the waterfront will take you by the Adriatic hotel and straight towards the historical centre. After about 100 metres you will came to Sv. Križ street, and Veli Jože tavern at No. 1.

Excellent food at a rock corner

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Indulging in the flavours and scents seems to be the brimstone of joyous living philosophy of Veralda owner. Their wine is exquisite, and the home-grown foods exclusively from Bujština (area around the town of Buje) are prepared on home-made olive oil, under the Veralda signature, as well. Everything that one can drink and eat the Visintin family produces itself, exception being the fish of course. The fish, however, is purchased from the local fishermen and not rarely traded for the wine; bringing it all again back to the Veralda. Forgotten tastes of home-prepared food awaken a desire to return to one’s roots and nature; and the owners will offer you vivid ex-planation and instruct you how to enjoy the food and beverage in a true adventure of the flavours and scents. Enjoy the idyllic scenery of hills and vineyards oblivious to the passing of time!

SPECIALTIESThe owner takes pride in their innovation: Rosé and Teran sparkling wine (Refošk)! Since this sort of grape has a very thin skin with a high pigment amount, it used to be considered unfit to produce the Rosé. However, the Veralda has proven just the opposite! Along with it, they produce a marvellous, gently pink refošk sparkling wine; and brandy. All the food is season food and home-made. The pasta offered here doesn’t include the fuži because it is common knowledge that on this side of the Mirna river fuži had never been made in the past. Instead of fuži, however, the typical pasta offered here is lasagne which here stands for thick tagliatelle-type pasta.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Nives & Luciano VisintinAddress .................. Kršin 3, BrtoniglaPhone ..................... 052/774-111

Credit Cards ........... All except DinersWeb Page ............... www.veralda.hrParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours 08:00-20:00, or otherwise if arranged

Getting there:Take the road Novigrad-Buje, and a little more than 1 km after Brtonigla (3.5-4 km before Buje) turn right (to the East). At the crossroads you will see the Veralda

The owner enjoying the view from the entrance

REMARK: Teran and Refošk – one or two

sorts? These two sorts have been debated about on numerous

occasions, but extensive research has brought

to a conclusion that the number of sorts in

question is two truly different sorts.

VERALDA (BRTONIGLA)

Blend of tradition and innovation,

with emphasis on gratifying flavour,

taste and scent

The view from the entrance

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The place to be for a great meal! Most of the clientele of this homey trattoria are local people, who like coming here for lunch. It is general knowledge: if you wish to eat good, homemade, and fresh food – just follow the locals! The young owner works at the tavern and plays the music of his choice; so, if you like rock, jazz, and blues, you will not be disappointed. The combination of good music and homey atmosphere makes this place unique, as well as very cosy.Oh, right: the trattoria got its name due to certain circumstances. It is not in Vodnjan.

SPECIALTIESApart from worker’s lunch menus you can choose from a number of typical Istrian dish-es. Our recommendation is homemade pas-ta with boškarin stew, or Istrian maneštra (thick vegetable soup) with sausages. Tripe fans will also be satis-fied. All of the above can be nicely completed with a glass of good homemade wine.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ....................Moris CiviticoAddress ..................D. Vitezića 4, Pula Phone .....................052/210-655

Credit Cards ...........NoneWeb Page ...............NoneParking ...................None (public parking in the street in front)

Opening Hours: MONDAY-FRIDAY 11:00-16:00, and 19:00-22:00 SATURDAY 11:00-16:00 SUNDAY Closed Closed throughout September.

Getting there:Depending on where you entered Pula, find Marulić Street, one of the longest streets stretching from north to south. Vitezić Street stems from Marulić Street at a right angle. When you find it, turn west and en-ter the street. Pass by the modern-style St. Joseph’s church, go straight for another 100 metres, and you will see trattoria Vod-njanka on your left.

VODNJANKA (PULA)

Tripe and jazzTrattoria Vodnjanka

VERALDA (BRTONIGLA)

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A road spiralling through vineyards will lead you to a place called Vrh (“Vrh” means the top, or peak, in Croatian), which truly deserves this name: it is located on top of the highest hill in the area itself, and wherever you look, the view stretches far into the horizon. There is a saying that the bell tower in Vrh overviews a hundred villages in the neighbourhood. On your way to Vrh, you will pass through Barušići village overlooking the whole Buto-niga Lake and the water processing plant. Vrh has preserved a number of old stone houses and an impression of other times still lingers on. Due to the fact that Vrh is not on top of tourist charts, the Vrh Tavern is visited only by recom-mendation – which is the best guarantee of dependable quality. This area has bike routes such as “Tartufina” and “Motovun East”, so should you choose to make a gastro break along the way, make sure you come by Vrh! The tavern is in the family house, with a roof-top terrace surrounded by greenery and closely maintained stone gardens. If you wish, call the tavern to arrange a demonstration of a truffle hunt!

SPECIALTIESThe tavern offers typical Istrian cuisine, and the owner especially recommends home-made fuži with boškarin sauce; stuffed large-size fuži (cheese; smoked ham and sir; mushroom; and as-paragus or nettle when in season). The offer also includes roasted boškarin, but with previous arrangement. All the meat is home-bred and purchased from the neighbours. You can have snail dishes (acquired from the farmers in Matulji), as well.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Smiljan PetohlepAddress .................. Vrh 1, BuzetPhone ..................... 052/667-123

Credit Cards ........... All except Diners and AmExWeb Page ............... NoneParking ................... Across the facility

Opening Hours: Tue-Sun 13:00-21:00 (Mondays CLOSED) Closed in January and February

Getting there:Take the road Buzet-Motovun and cross the little bridge leading to Vrh. The turn you need is about 3.3 km from the turn for Istarske toplice (Istrian Spa) and is clearly marked. There are 9 more kilometres to Vrh, just keep following the signs.

VRH (VRH)Fantastic view from the top

and top local cuisineThe view of Buzet from the tavern’s terrace

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Dol agritourism lies hidden in grey, clayish hills of the flysch*. For the last 12 years, this large family house has been producing absolutely eve-rything that a guest can see there: horses, sheep, pigs, ducks, geese, chickens, donkeys, goats, dogs and ponies will keep you company, and it is one of the rare estates where you can see boškarin (typical Istrian cat-tle). The whole area is covered in bare, greyish hills with many walking trails, one of which leads straight up to the hill above the estate boasting the view of the Kvarner islands. In the back of the estate, there is even a small waterfall, which the staff will be happy to direct you to. If you wish, you can get involved in various home activities: learning to prepare Istrian specialities, milking a cow, picking grapes, mowing the lawn, planting vegetables, picking mushrooms, asparagus, blackberry or elder flower/berry. You can spend a wonderful day here, in home-like environment of central Istria.

SPECIALTIESThe range of specialities goes from milk, cheese, bread in the baker’s oven, meat, smoked ham (prosciutto), bacon and sausages; to home-grown vegetables, wine and cake made of fruit grown on the estate orchard; every single piece of food served here has been grown on the estate. Since the staff offers work in groups (upon reservation), one should inquire by phone if a group reserva-tion has already been made, so you can join in.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .....................Ana StojšićAddress .................. Lukačići bb, Gologorički dol, Phone .....................052/684-625095/848-2766 (this number is for non-Croatian speakers)

Credit Cards ............NoneWeb Page ............... http://goo.gl/CWXgzParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours: Throughout the year; phone reservation required; Possibility of joining an organised group

Getting there:From Rijeka or Pula by the Istrian Y: Once you have reached Cerovlje, get off the highway (the Istrian Y) following the signs for Boljun. A few kilometres later, there will be a sign to the right lead-ing to Gologorica place. Before entering the village itself, take the road to the left enjoying the view down into the valley. Once you have reached the bottom of the valley, the sign shall direct you to Lukačići on your right hand side, therefore leading you to the Dol agritourism. From Rijeka or Pula via Vozilići: In Vozilići take the turn towards Pazin, going through Kršani and Potpićan. Once you are in Zajci, turn right following the Trupljak-Jankomići-Švići sign, and go on for another 7.2 km, passing Žiganti, Sretinčići, Cinzebi and Oršanići places, after which you will take two turns to the left passing over two small bridges. Once here, you will enjoy the vista of Pićan and Gračišće towns located on top of the surrounding hills. For the next 5 km follow the road by the creek, all the way to the place called Gologorički Dol where you take the turn to the left, following the signs for the Dol agritourism.

A somewhat different istriaVRH (VRH) AGRITOURISM

DOL (GOLOGORICA)

* Flysch = impenetrable layer of sedimentary rocks; in grey colour mostly, not bearing much vegetation

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If you are looking for more than just enjoying the splendid local cuisine, the Ferlins offer you to participate in the life on the estate, as well: tak-ing care of the farm animals, going lavender picking, grapes or medici-nal herbs picking; and healthy food production. Mother, father and two sons, the Ferlins, manage this family household. Ms Ferlin hand-makes folklore clothing garments typical for this area, providing you with an opportunity to wear the folklore clothing; to learn the old dances to the music of the bellows and the accordion! The Pazin South bicycle route (www.istria-bike.com) passes right by the village, so if you find yourself

in possession of a map, nothing should stop you from travelling the whole or just a part of the route. There is Feštinsko kraljevstvo cave only 2 km further on, where you can take a stroll down to, as well. You can look up the information on the cave on our web pages.

SPECIALTIESAll the food is homemade and offered in its season; it’s cooked/baked in the large baker’s oven, and the family will allow you to observe the food preparation and take a peek at the oven, as well. The Ferlin family makes its own smoked ham (prosciutto); moreover, their offer of baby beef and veal roasted in the baker’s oven and fresh milk attribute a true rustic atmosphere. Their home-made pasta with milk cream (butter parched pasta) is widely known and praised. As the house dessert specialty, one should try, most definitely, the carrot cake, a strudel and cukerančići* baked in the baker’s oven.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Dinko FerlinAddress .................. Gržini 2, ŽminjPhone ..................... 052/823-515

Credit Cards ........... NoneWeb Page ............... www.agroturizam-ferlin.comParking ................... Yes

098/639-561 (this number is for non-Croatian speakers)

Opening Hours: Throughout the year; phone reservation required (one day in advance)

Getting there:If taking the Žminj-Barban road, then 4.8 km after Žminj (i.e. 9.4 km after Barban if coming from this direction) turn right towards Gržini village. Follow the signs and 1.4 km after the turn, you will come across the crossroad to Gržini. Turn right and continue down the road through the village for another 800 m up to the meadow designated as the FF Agritourism (the Ferlin Family). You can park your car there and continue on foot for about another sixty metres, following the signs for the Agritourism.

FAMILIJA FERLINPut on the folklore clothing and

experience the life on the estate at first

hand and for the first time

(GRŽINI)

Cukerančići* - Istrian cookies named after Italian word for sugar.

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Time does not pass on this hill! From the valley of the Mirna river, the macadam road will get you to Završje village and, a few more minutes down the road, you will find yourself on Montižel (Monticello) hill, which boasts the view over Završje and Motovun. There is a part of the ‘Parenzana’ trekking-walking route passing just right here. Depending on the time of the year, you can choose between shady terrace and rustic, warm interior. The terrace has been roofed and covered in trees and greenery from all sides, with extra pleasure of cricket songs, providing a perfect shade in sum-mer heat. During the rest of the year, one can enjoy a meal in the rustic room filled with warm fire crackling in the old fireplace. Home-made sausages, dry ombolo* and original Istrian pasta (maneštra) will make your winter day. The family produces its own olive oil and wine, having been awarded numerous prizes for the same.

SPECIALTIESEverything here is home-made, and our special recommendation would be fuži** with home-bred chicken. The portions are really rich and served with home-made bread. Here you can find, as well, true Istrian sweets (home-made, of course), such as marmalade and other products made by the family itself. A rare treat, truly, are fresh home-made fruit juices! The Pincin family makes wine, as well: Teran, Cabernet Souvignon, Muscat and Malvasia; and if you are that lucky to find yourself in Montižel at the end of September, you can ask to try the Muscat must.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..................... Edo PincinAddress ..................Montižel 59, Završje Phone .....................052/776-212

Credit Cards ............NoneWeb Page ...............www.pincin-monticello.hrParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours: 12:00-21:00 (every day, reservation required)

Getting there:If you are taking the Buzet-Buje road, take the turn towards Završje. The turn is 14.5 km from Buje, i.e. 20 km from Buzet. After the turn, keep on along the treated macadam for about 4.8 km ending in Završje, then continue through the village and, after approximately 650 m, you will come across the turn leading you to the Montižel Agritourism.

True home-made food in a

true home environment

MONTIŽEL (ZAVRŠJE)

* Ombolo – pork chops without bones, fat and vessels prepared by special recipe.** Fuži – traditional Istrian pasta.

Završje

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The most praised agritourism not only for its food, but for the treasured intimacy of the small space. There is a path leading to the stable with horses, pigs and Vietnamese pigs. The beauty of the scenery gets spiced up with the sight of geese and dogs running around freely. You can phone to make arrangements for recreation-al outdoor horse-ride, accompanied of course. Should you feel the need for some peace and quiet, you can take a stroll in the small forest and karst sinkhole near the house. All the food is prepared on wood fire – in the hearth, baker’s oven or wood stove. The owner of the place is a two-time award winner of excellent Istrian pinca* award, baked in the hearth. Should you be interested, you can cook a meal under the bell (čripnje**): for groups of 8 people max. Ms Šajina will organise the whole experience – from gathering fire wood in the woods, building a fire and all the way to presenting the guests with a luscious meal. You can attend workshops for cooking traditional meals, making food provisions for winter, wool spinning and basket weaving. You can take part in a series of chores on the estate, and you will be awarded with lunch or dinner.

SPECIALTIESBesides the good old traditional farm-style food, such as roasted meat under the bell, the owners take pleasure in experimenting with groceries at hand. That way they came up with meals such as turkey in mulberry sauce (the tree growing in front of the house), or fritule*** in mulberry sauce; batter-dumplings (štruclji) in home-bred chicken sauce, which meals you will hardly get to try any-where else. Ask Ms Šajina to explain what štruclji are.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ...................Davorka ŠajinaAddress .................Katun Lindarski 60, PazinPhone ....................052/693-035, 098/723-442

Credit Cards ..........NoneWeb Page ..............www.agroturizam-ograde.hrParking ..................In front of the facility

Opening Hours Throughout the year (telephone reservation required)

Getting there:Start from Žminj taking the road to Pazin (follow the signs). Approxi-mately 3 km later, you will come to Lindarski Katun, where you will take the turn to the right and fol-low the signs leading you to the Ograde Agritourism.

Join in yourselves!OGRADE (KATUN LINDARSKI)

* Pinca (also “sirnica” or “pinza”) is a traditional Dal-matian, Istrian and western

Croatian sweet roll.

**Čripnje – clay lid used for baking.

*** Fritule, also called ‘uštipci’, is a festive Croatian

pastry resembling little doughnuts.

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OGRADE (KATUN LINDARSKI) TIKEL (ŠPINOVCI)

The hill slopes opposite Motovun provide home to the Tikel family household, managed by a sister and two brothers. Each of them performs a separate group of chores/works: either in the garden, fields, vineyards, or with animals, in the kitchen or in restaurant management. This old stone house decorated in a traditional man-ner has a closed terrace offering view over the valley and on Mo-tovun. The estate is located near the “Parenzana” route; therefore you can enjoy it either making a picnic on foot or by bike. The family members also go truffle hunting, and the late grandfather used to tell stories how, in childhood days, children used to throw “stinky potatoes at each other, and they used to stink for days” (referring to truffles). In those days, truffles were considered poor people’s food; however people had been coming from Italy to buy only the largest pieces for a bargain.

SPECIALTIESAlmost everything is homemade, which means that if you have or-dered salad, you might have to wait a bit for someone has gone out to pick it in the garden. The family prepares season food, home-made bread and pasta; and the owner has characterised the offer as “solid home-made food”: roast with potatoes under the bell, ombolo and sausages, Istrian maneštra, etc. Each day offers a new food combination, according to the situation. The family produces its own wine, as well: Malvasia, Teran and Cabernet Franck.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..........................Mario TikelAddress ........................Špinovci 88, KarojbaPhone ...........................052/683-404, 095/538-2214

Credit Cards .................All (except Diners and AmEx)Web Page .....................In the process of designParking .........................In front of the facility

Opening Hours: Every day 13:00-22:00 (should you arrive earlier, just hunk the horn in your car) if previously arranged: 0-24 Usually not in January; but yes if arranged.

Getting there:Driving on the Karojba-Višnjan road (approx-imately 1.4 km from Karojba) turn towards Rakotule; 500 m after turn left going for another 3.3 km following the signs for the Tikel Agritourism. Drive carefully because the road is narrow, and the traffic is active in both directions.

“Real home-made food” with a

fantastic panorama of Motovun

The view of Motovun and the surrounding landscape from the terrace

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Tončić Agrotourism is run by brother and sister Sandro and Orjeta; however, three gen-erations of Tončić family live there, and all of them are involved in running the estate and entertaining the visitors. The house, once upon a time a barn, has a wonderful pano-ramic view of Učka, Buzet, and Mirna river val-ley. The peace and quiet of the landscape fills your heart with pleasure. The family members are into hunting and truffle hunting. They also have a big garden and lots of domestic ani-mals: truffle-searching dogs, chickens, cows, goats, sheep, and cats. At the meadow next to the terrace there is a couple of metres-high apple tree growing from solid rock. The kitchen does not open for less than ten people, so if you are on your own you should call up in advance and see if there is a group scheduled for dinner. If there is (and there probably is) you can join in. As it is always crowded in the winter, you shouldannounce your arrival in advance.

SPECIALTIESAll food is produced either at or near the estate: meat and cured meat products, sheep cheese, wine, various kinds of rakija (medica – honey rakija, biska – mistletoe rakija, and kimel – cumin rakija),and the vegetables are from their own garden. All products are homemade, and the food is seasonal: mushrooms, asparagus, black or white truffles (depending on the season), etc. They also make five types of homemade pasta. In the winter try the corn maneštra (thick vegetable soup) and jota (sauerkraut). The owners especially recommend wild boar goulash, and home-made cakes.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ......................Izak TončićAddress ....................Čabarnica 42, ZrenjPhone.......................052/644-146 091/20 60 512

Credit Cards .............NoneWeb Page ................NoneParking.....................In front

Opening Hours: FRI-SUN 12:30-23:00 (kitchen is open until 21:00) MON-THURS with prior announcement - Closed throughout July

Getting there:Take the road Buzet–Motovun and turn north, towards Livade village. At the roundabout in Livade pass straight and proceed on the winding road uphill for another 6.5 km, pass through Oprtalj and follow the road signs for Zrenj. Follow the main road passing through Zrenj and heading south and turn left after about 350 metres. Half a kilometre away at the road’s end you will see Tončić Agrotourism.

ˇTONCIC (CABARNICA, NEAR ZRENJ)´An idyllic countryside estate

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This oil mill looks like a true little industry, providing you with an insight into the real modern olive oil production. Stone mills and donkeys have been replaced long ago by the modern production processes which you can see and smell first hand here. In case you are interested, here you will find answers to questions on any segment of olive oil production – production of the liquid green gold that has made Istria already renowned among olive oil connois-seurs worldwide. On the wooden gallery inside the production hall there is a comfortable tasting room, where you can taste various olive oils, and combine it with food and wine tasting. You can also buy the oil produced here on the spot.

SPECIALTIESOther products related to olive oil are also produced here, for example olive oil soap. The olive oil is produced from the Bjelica, Leccino and Buža Puntoža sorts.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ....................Ante BabićAddress ..................Stancija Vinjeri 27 Phone .....................098/335-460 098/192-9184

Credit Cards ...........NoneWeb Page ...............www.maslinovouljebabic.comParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 09:00-14:00 (individual visits) Sat 09:00-13:00, Sundays CLOSEDOil mill works if arranged previously; for groups of 6 people min.

Getting there:When entering Novigrad at the circular intersection (directions for Novigrad centre, Umag and Buje), take the road (‘sv. Vidal’ street) towards Bužinija, Brtonigla and Buje. 1.3 km after the circular intersection, turn right following the Uljara Babić (Babić Oil Mill) sign, and 150 m further you will come across a yellow building on your right side – and there you are.

This is how we make liquid green goldTONCIC (CABARNICA, NEAR ZRENJ) VINERIES & OLIVE MILLS

BABIC (NOVIGRAD)´

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BAŽON (GRACIŠCE)

When they are not working in vineyards, members of this friendly and hard-working family are in the tasting room, and vice versa. For this reason, it is best to call in advance and make arrangements for your arrival. The well-behaved dogs and cats will accompany you to the cosy, nicely dec-orated tasting room. Ms Bažon is originally from Slavonia (continental part of Croatia), so she added a number of old Slavonian items to the rustic Istrian ambiance of the tasting room. The atmosphere here is re-laxed and cheerful, and you will surely have a lovely time.

SPECIALTIESThere are four types of tastings, all of them combining wonderful homemade wine, brandies, and various food; it is rather difficult to restrain yourself from going overboard. Wine offer includes Malva-sia, Merlot, Merlot Barrique, Teran, Muscat and Rosé; and brandy offer includes Biska, Medica, Cherry and Grappa. Teranino is a type of light liqueur made from Teran wine, ideal to sweeten up a hot summer afternoon. The recipe, of course, is a secret. So, before coming to the Bažon winery, choose the unlucky person who will drive and not drink, and – enjoy!

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Josip BažonAddress .................. Marcani 130b, GračišćePhone ..................... 052/621-997091/502-1667

Credit Cards ........... NoneWeb Page ............... www.istrabiz.hr/vinabazonParking ................... In front

Opening Hours 24/7; at request

Getting there: The winery is on the main road, 800 m from Gračišće, in Pazin direction, on the left side. On the entrance you will see a barrel with Bažon inscrip-tion in yellow colour.

In the middle of the vineyard,

in a cordial home atmosphere

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BAŽON (GRACIŠCE)

The owner’s grandfather’s prop-phrase Cuj da ti recem… (Eng. Let me tell you…), spoken in local dialect, earned him the nickname Cuj, which in his honour became the name of this winery and oil refinery. The owner and former caterer Danijel Kraljević decided to dedicate himself to oenology, and found the perfect way to combine the two. At Cuj you will find an old-style tasting room with an open fireplace, and answers to all your questions about Istrian wines and olive oil: which soil, which glass, how, why, when, etc. You will see the samples and hear the story of all three types of Istrian soil, which have found its place in Cuj products’ logo. After that, you will be lead downstairs into a cellar hewn into solid rock. The bare rocks of the cellar give it a cave-like appearance and maintain the ideal temperature for wine and oil preservation. During olive picking season in October and November it is also possible to visit and see the entire procedure of olive oil production.

PRODUCTSTASTINGS AND GUIDED TOURS: 35.00–100.00 kuna per person, depending on your wishes. In addition to wine tasting, you can sample the homemade products such as smoked ham (prosciutto), baked olives, various cheeses, salted sardines, etc. Malvasia, aged Malvasia, Teran, Chardonnay, semi-sweet Muscat, Rosé: 45.00–80.00 kuna per bottle. Call or e-mail to announce your arrival in advance.

BASIC INFORMATIONOwner ...........................Danijel KraljevićAddress ........................Farnažine 5, Sveta Marija na Krasu, UmagCredit Cards ..................None

Phone ...........................098/219-277 Danijel Kraljević 091/2121-920 MassimoWeb Page .....................www.cuj.hr (under construction)Parking .........................In front

Opening Hours: 08:00-15:00 every day; After 15:00 with notification in advance. October/November 00:00-24:00

Getting there:In Petrovija, a village at the road from Buje to Umag, turn right (northwards) towards Vilanija. Pass through Vilanija, and after about 1.3 km (3.5 km after Petrovija) you will see Cuj winery on your right.

Amid solid rocksCUJ (SV. MARIJA NA KRASU)

Cuj Winery

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Take the time to visit this remote oil mill in a rustic family house in the village of Ipši, and you will not regret it. A narrow spiral road through the forest will bring you to this vil-lage some 250 m above the sea level. There you will enjoy the view over the Istrian Spa on one side, and over Motovun and the sur-rounding hills on the other side. The neat lawn, several enormous old olive trees and a carefully decorated house lot full of flowers, win your heart at first glance: the same grass terrace in front of the tasting facility brings out the view over the hills and sinks it deep into the valley and the next moment spring-ing up high towards Motovun. The stoney

basement is perfect for storing olive oil, which is kept in state-of-the-art- metal tanks, while the old-style tasting room has maintained the atmosphere of the old days. Hearing the stories of the liquid green gold, by the Ipša family, and sitting at the old table before the hearth, leaves no heart untouched.

SPECIALTIESYear after year, the Ipša family olive oil is included in “L’Extravergine”, a famous and prestigious guide of finest olive oils in the world. They offer four oil sorts: leccino, istarska bjelica, frantoio and mix. One can organise tasting that includes cheese, smoked ham, olive oil, wine, and various sorts of olive oil pickled vegetables. The family itself produces the aforementioned products, except for the cheese. Tasting should be arranged a week in advance; tour lasts an hour and a half at least - the time necessary to tell the story and taste all the food.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .......................Klaudio Ipša Address .....................Ipši 10, LivadePhone........................052/664-010

Credit Cards ........ NoneWeb Page ................. www.ipsa-maslinovaulja.hrParking................ In front of the facility

Opening Hours Every day 10:00-17:00; it is advised to phone and make arrangements; especially in October because the family has the harvest. If you make an arrangement, somebody will be at disposal.

Getting there:In Livade go East on the circular intersection, next to the Zigante Restaurant. Keep going down the road for 2.1 km and turn left on the crossroads. Keep on going up the spiral street through the woods for another 1.4 km. In the Ipša village you will see a sign for the mill and an arrow pointing left to the Ipša Oil Mill parking lot.

On a magical hill in the heart of olive groves

IPŠA (IPŠI)

Ipša terrace

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OLEUM VITAE (KRASICA)

In the hometown of olive oil,

and in the company of a champion

A small place of Krasica is Croatian capi-tal of olive oil. Why? Because olive groves spread in all directions and the place it-self has eight olive oil tasting facilities. For this reason Krasica has been named the Olive Oil Hometown. Olive oil fiesta, Ole-um olivarum, takes place in Krasica, the second weekend in March. Nino Činić, the Oleum Vitae brand owner, processes 750 olives, and year after year his oils tend to make their way into prestigious Italian guide L’Extravergine, dedicated precisely to world’s finest olive oils. Istria, being the northernmost part of the Mediterranean where olives success-fully grow, provides its oils with a larger part of unsaturated fatty acid which brings a great deal to its quality. You should come to Krasica and discover many other interesting facts on this liquid green gold!

SPECIALTIESThe Oleum Vitae produces oils from three olive sorts: Leccino, Buža and Bjelica. The oils, among other, differ by flavour intensity, which you will discover by tasting. Mr Činić’s Leccino oil is Zadar 2012

“Dani masline” gold medal award winner. Besides the oil, you can taste wine (Malvasia and Teran Refošk) and the owner’s uncle’s home-made smoked ham.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ...................... Nino ČinićAddress .................... Krasica 40, BujePhone ....................... 052/776-164

Credit Cards ............. NoneWeb Page: ................ NoneParking ..................... Nearby

Opening Hours: Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00On working days best by phone call arrangement.

Getting there:You can get to Krasica by Buje-Vižinada road, approx. 4 km from Buje. The oil mill is situated on the main road itself passing through Krasica.

Nino Činić in his tasting room

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In the village of Radovani, the surname of 80% of the residents is Radovan. This village on a hill overlooking the sea is surrounded by vineyards. It will strike you as interesting that each house has a large iron gate. This friendly family will be happy to have you for tasting in their comfortable ambiance or on the terrace. Make arrangements for your arrival a few hours earlier (Tel.: 052/462-166) in order to make sure that the hosts are at home. The chirping of crickets and the taste of cool wine perfectly summarize the overall impression of summertime in the Istrian countryside.

SPECIALTIESThe winery is dedicated to production of four wine sorts, all of them pure: Malvasia, Teran, Chardonnay and Cabernet Souvignon. Their red wines, “Vinistra” award winners, are stored in wooden barrels (Barrique).

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Franko RadovanAddress .................. Radovani 14, VišnjanPhone ..................... 052/462-166

Credit Cards ........... NoneWeb Page ............... NoneParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours Make arrangements several hours in advance.

Getting there:Travelling the Baderna-Vižinada road, you will come across the turn-ing sign for Radovani (approx. 4.5 km from Baderna). In the village you will see the sign for the winery underneath the road mirror: turn right; at the bocce court turn right one more time, and continue down the road till the end of the village.

In the middle of a sea of vineyardsRADOVAN (RADOVANI)

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KUMPARICKA (KRNICA)STANCIJA

One of the rare goat farms in Istria, with 200 goats and 60 acres of pastures. Historically, the word “Stancija” stood for a country estate complex, and Stancija Kumparička dates back to the 14th century. The owner used to live in Ljubljana (Slovenia), where he dealt in investment funds and real estate; he bought this old stan-cija so that he can have a place to run away to as a break from stressful urban life. The Stancija was shabby and uncared for, so he bought a few goats in order to get rid of the wild plants and bushes. One thing lead to another, the family grew more and more inter-ested in goat milk, so Mr. Winkler and his family decided to move here! Today the number of goats has grown to 200, and the family produces wonderful cheeses, yoghurts, etc. and organises tastings in their newly built old-style cheese production plant located right next to the house.

SPECIALTIESGoat milk cheeses and yoghurt: taste unusually, but really excellent! Call the farm and use the chance for the products tasting. We recommend assembling a larger group and making a telephone arrangement for the type of tasting you prefer.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..........................Aleš WinklerAddress ........................Stancija Kumparička, KrnicaPhone ...........................099/6690-692

Credit Cards .................NoneWeb Page .....................www.kumparicka.comParking .........................In front of the facility

Opening Hours: Throughout the year; with prior arrangement

Getting there:Travelling from Marčana turn towards Duga Uvala. Continue for another 3.9 km and turn left towards Cokuni, pass-ing Cveki and Cokuni. At the end of Cokuni the road takes a sharp turn to the right, and approx. 30 m after the turn, on your left you will see macadam of about 800 m leading straight to the Stancija Kumparička.

Everything made of goat milkThe main house

Aleš Winkler with a baby goat

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OPATIJA

Although it is a very popular holiday destination, thanks to a very good and healing climate Opatija is even more popular as a winter resort. 1844 is considered to be the year that marks the beginning of the development of tourism in Opatija, and the event that lead to it was the construction of Villa Angiolina. Today Villa Angiolina is where the Croatian Museum of Tourism is located. Words describing the beauty of nature, the climate and summer parties on patios soon reached the Austrian imperial family and nobility. As Opatija became their favorite destination, a number of hotels and villas were quickly built. This little town is perfect for walkers: hotels, villas, beautifully landscaped parks full of flowers, and terraces along the coast make every corner interesting in some way. It is especially nice to walk along the coastal footpath which is 12 km long.

Coastal promenade (Lungomare) from Volosko to LovranWith sounds of waves under the cliffs, through the park, next to villas and hotels, 12-kilometers-long promenade meanders through the lonely and the lively parts of the coast from Volosko to Lovran. It is ideal for long walks and jogging along the coast. Every so often you will find a bench, a cafe by the sea, a small beach, or a beautiful view of Rijeka and Cres. Walking down the promenade is like walking through history, but the stories of famous people are told from a different angle: how they used to spend their vacations. There is a window where dancer Isadora Duncan tried to turn palm leaves motions into dance moves, then the villa where Emperor Franz Joseph I. used to meet with his lover, actress Katherina Schratt. There are places where James Joyce, Vladimir Nabokov and Franz Ferdi-nand used to stay. These are all some of the details that might tease your imagination. You will pass the Grand Hotel Kvarner (1884), which is the oldest functioning hotel on our Adriatic, its terrace once proclaimed “the most elegant terrace in the world.” One of its celebrity guests, Adolf von Nassau, Grand Duke of Luxembourg, introduced a special tradition after his doctor allowed him to have only one cigar a day: during his daily walks to the music pavilion, he would calmly enjoy a half-meter-long cigar.

Pearl of our seaListen to my serenade beautiful Opatija, pearl of our sea,

In your wonderful harmonyYou’re beautiful at night,

Beautiful when the dawn breaks ...

... goes the song a famous Croatian singer Ivo Robić once dedicated to Opatija. Wonderful Opatija is the romantic pearl of the Adriatic.

The famous sculpture “Girl with a seagull” and

the Lungomare in Opatija at dusk

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SHORT TRIPSDo you know how many places around Opatija offer an opportunity to explore and enjoy them? Visit Nature Park Učka, have lunch in Kastav, take a walk around Veprinac, have coffee on a vista point overlooking Plomin-channel, visit Rijeka, go to Istria, or even to the nearby islands! Here are some suggestions:

KastavThe town on the hill near Opatija is a wonderful place for a short trip. Along the old town and walls, there is a delightful view of the Gulf of Rijeka. If you get hungry, we propose two great pizza places (Rustica and Loža), and the famous Kukuriku restaurant. The most popular event in Kastav is called White Sunday (Croatian “Bela nedeja”), noisy and cheerful wine fair which is held on the first Sunday in October (but the event starts on Thursday).

Plomin channelAt the end part of the channel there is a restaurant-lookout called Flanona, with excellent coffee and cakes, and a view to remember.

Nature Park UčkaDescribed in detail in this guide (pp. 12-13). Vojak, the highest peak of Učka offers a cool mountain air and the entire bay of Kvarner on the palm of your hand.

Volosko-Mošćenička Draga RoadA succession of beaches and coastal areas is up to 16 kilometers long. If you’re in the mood to explore, proceed to Labin and Raša Bay! Driving to Labin takes about an hour, and you can read more about Raša bay in thisguide (Istria, Trip No. 5).

The nearby islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj.Easily accessible by car, just pay attention to the ferry timetable.

The Lungomare

Winter in Kastav

Mošćenička Draga

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ARCHIE’S FAST FOOD (OPATIJA)

Tramerka tavern is located in a pictur-esque secluded alley in Volosko. Thanks to an intimate rustic ambience and great food, this restaurant offers a memorable experience for all the senses. You will especially feel this special atmosphere in the winter, once you enter this warm room heated by the open fireplace in the middle of the tavern. The owner insists on serving only fresh fish caught by his fisherman friend. If the catch of the day was poor some dishes will simply not find their place on the menu. His motto is: ei-ther fresh or not at all. Since the dishes are

created depending on the available fresh fish and seasonal ingredients, friendly staff will be happy to recommend the best dishes of the day.

SPECIALTIESThe tavern is especially known for its seafood, but they also have meat dishes. Stew and

“gregada’’ are always on the menu, made from freshly caught fish. Stuffed sardines, cuttlefish risotto and tuna carpaccio are just some of the delicious dishes that you will find here. The wine is great, and desserts such as pears in wine or curd with berries will be a great ending to a great meal.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .......................Kristijan Ivančić Address .....................A. Mohorovičića 15, VoloskoPhone........................051/701-707

Credit Cards ........ Visa, MasterCardWeb Page ................. NoneParking................ Public parking in the harbor

Opening Hours 11:00 – 24:00., closed on Mondays

Getting there:In the vicinity of a small roundabout in the port of Volosko climb the stairs to the Surfca-fe, then turn left into Dr. Andrija Mohorovičić street. Aftera hundred meters to the right un-der the arch of a stone house, you will see a tavern Tramerka, at number 15.

Intimate place for gourmet delightTRAMERKA (VOLOSKO)

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BOCARIJA (OPATIJA)

ARCHIE’S FAST FOOD (OPATIJA)

Boćarija first started as a barbecue stall by the bowling alley, but eventually grew into a very busy pub, popular with locals.The rule is already known: where the locals eat, it must be good.The atmos-phere of the inn is not refined or rustic, but a real workers’ place, dedicated to the enjoyment of fast food.

SPECIALTIESBoćarija specializes in grilled meat dishes. Dishes like burgers with cheese or breaded cutlets stuffed with horse radish and sour cream will satisfy all meat lovers’ senses. You can order copious brunch at a very affordable price every day of the week (except weekends) until 2:00 p.m.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ...................... Kristijan BrajkovicAddress .................... Jurja Dobrile 1aPhone ....................... 051/603-244Credit Cards ............. None

Web Page: ................ NoneParking ..................... in front of the building, along the street that got you there. Parking is free of charge

Opening Hours: Open every day 08:00. to 23:00

Getting there:In the center of Opatija, by the Bristol hotel, turn uphill onto Juraj Dobrila street. Buffet Boćarija, as its name implies, is part of the bowling center on No. 1

Archie’s is known for its excellent burgers and its location one the main road makes it a great and easily accessible place for all lovers of quality fast-food (yes, that does exist!). The terrace is located on the main beach, and provides the opportunity to enjoy the scenery, and relax by the sea. The Volosko-Lovran promenade (see p. 68) passes next to Archie’s, so it is therein case you decide to take a long walk.

SPECIALTIESHamburger. Confirmed by 100% users.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ...................... Robert DemarkcAddress .................... Primorska15, IkaPhone ....................... 051/293-831

Credit Cards ............. NoneWeb Page: ................ NoneParking ..................... No

Opening Hours: Open every day 8:00. to 23:00

´

Čevapčići

Archie’s is located at the corner overlooking the beach, in the far right part of the photo

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CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 1

There is a large number of macadam roads on the islands of Cres and Lošinj. There is very little traffic, which makes them perfect for bike rides. However, without a doubt the most beautiful trail is the macadam fire road from Cres to Valun: the entire trail passes through olive groves lo-cated above numerous secluded beaches, offering a spectacular view of the Valun bay. The magical colours of the crystalline sea, the salty breeze and the silent nature are a bliss for the eyes and the soul.This trail is especially interesting in spring. The trail starts above the Cres marina: take the narrow path that takes you behind the marina fence. After 650 metres you will reach Pišće, a small bay where a stream flows into the sea creating an unusual, half swampy area. Here is where macadam road starts, climbing for the first 11.5 km. Afterwards the path is straight.

After 11.5 km macadam road joins the asphalt road going towards Valun. There is also a water tap on this intersection offering an oppor-tunity for refreshment.After riding the bike 2 km down the hill you will reach the center of Valun, a small fishing village where you can choose between a few beaches. Due to terrain configuration, the sea in Valun is usually one or two degrees warmer than nearby positions. If you get there in the morning you will be able to see the fog coming down from Vransko Lake towards the sea. In Saint Mary church in Valun, there is the original “Valun Tablet” embed-ded in wall. It is the second oldest written monument in Croatian language. It is bilingual (old Croatian and Latin) and it is written in two different scripts (Cyrillic and Glagolitic). The tablet dates from the 11th century. In case you get hungry on the way, you can make a detour and visit “Trs” restaurant, 1.8 km far from the trail. The path to restaurant joins the Cres-Valun macadam road approximately 6.2 km after the marina (5.2 km after the water tap on the intersection)After 1.1 km you will reach the main island road, make a left turn and proceed for 700m following the Krčina village and “Trs” restaurant.

Bike Trip Cres–Valun–Cres

Bikers enjoying the view from the

macadam road

Valun bay, as seen from the trail. The trail is partly visible at the

hill on the right, passing along its middle part.

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CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 2Bike Trip Cres–Valun–Cres

Tramuntana is the name of the north part of the Island of Cres. It starts at “Križić” which is an intersection on the main island road with one branch leading towards the small town of Beli.

“Križić” is the narrowest part of the Island of Cres – it is only 2 km wide and it is a real mile-stone in terms of both climate and landscape: as you get closer to Beli, landscape changes significantly. It is taken over by oak and chest-nut forests divided by small meadows. Forests become thicker and more mystical as one gets closer to Beli. Tramuntana boasts seven different lengths circular walking trails which are essentially ancient trails connecting Tramuntana villages. Brochure containing the trails map can be re-trieved from the Cres tourist office, Tramuntana guest-house in Beli, or you can simply down-load a .PDF file here: http://goo.gl/HRud5Along the way you will run into old abandoned villages, different small animals, labyrinths, as well as pieces of art dedicated to nature and Tramuntana. “The Red Trail” will take you past the “Čampari’’ cave, also called the “Banić” cave. Four entirely preserved cave bear skel-etons were found in this 100-meters-deep cave. The skeletons are approximately 12,000 years old.

If you get lucky you might also run into the “macmalić” – forest elves who hide in trees and pull practical jokes on passers-by. However, you should be careful. They can also trick you into choosing the wrong path using different tricks. Should you yourself want to experience what it feels like to literally walk out of a tree, make sure to visit the village of Sveti Petar, which is lo-cated only 3 km before reaching the town of Beli. There is an ancient oak tree growing in the vil-lage which has been protected as natural herit-age. The oak trees is more than 400 years old. It has endured much damage and wounding, but it is still standing. The oak tree is hollow on the inside, allowing for 6-7 persons to stand inside it. After a pleasant walk you can visit the beach below Beli by foot or by car and refresh yourself in a cafe. You can also have something to eat at either Tramuntana guest-house (throughout the year), Beli restaurant (starting with 20.04.2013.), or Sveti Petar agritourism in Sveti Petar.HOW TO GET THERE?Beli is located on the east side of the north part of the island. Follow the signs to Porozina and Beli. Once you have reached the intersection take the narrow road leading towards Beli. After 6 km you will reach a parking lot, where you should park your car. Parking lot is only 400 m far from Beli.

Tramuntana Eco TrailsAmong shady ferns and lumpy oaks

Restaurant Tramuntana in Beli

The view of Križić and the island of Cres from Sis mountain top

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There are two mountain peaks worth visiting on the highest mountain on the Island of Lošinj: Televrina (588m), the highest one and Sv. Mikula (557m) the most beautiful one. Osorščica offers a wonderful view of the Cres-Lošinj archipelago, Istria, Gorski Kotar (Mountain region) and the Velebit mountain. Picturesque marked trails pass through shady parts and next to St. Gaudent (274m) mountain hut. You can start from Nerezine or from Osor, and download the map in PDF format here: http://goo.gl/nJrnSVisit the old stone chapel of St. Mikula located below the mountain peak bearing the same name and St. Gaudencija cave below the Televrin peak. The Legend says that the Bishop of Osor called St. Gaudentium was expelled from the city for criticizing the sinful and corrupted lives of the people of Osor. He eventually settled on top of Osoršćica in a cave full of snakes, so he begged God for mercy asking that these is-lands are for ever rid of poisonous snakes which God granted. Scientific reason is not known, but the fact is that there are no poisonous snakes at the Cres-Lošinj archipelago. Even the poisonous snakes brought to these islands die after a short time. St. Gaudentius eventually went to the Franciscan monastery in An-cona, where he died in the year 1044. After a hundred years, all the bells started ringing in Osor out of the blue. Below the city walls there was a wooden chest floating in the sea carrying the body of St. Gauden-tium. Osor declared him the patron saint of the city, and his day (also the day of the town) is celebrated on June the 1st. There are big festivities held on the

main square. In the Osor cathedral there is a statue of St. Gaudentium, with snakes wrapped around his legs. Visitors often take a pebble from the cave, as protec-tion against snakes anywhere in the world. In the end refresh yourself in the mountain hut St. Gaudentius, which is open from 01 April to 30 Sep-tember. every day. Outside this period it is always open on weekends.After descending from Osorčica take a rest in Osor. A small town on the canal that separates the islands of Cres and Lošinj is often called an open air museum:

its gardens and parks conceal traces of ancient villas, while the foundations of city walls date back to the 9th century BC. Osor is associated with the legend of Jason and the Argonauts, and throughout its long historyit has survived the Roman Empire, the Byzan-tine Empire, the Venetian Republic, Croatian princes, Austro-Hungary, Napoleon and Italian occupation. By 15th Century vessels mainly sailed along the coast, so Osor channel was a very important passage at the time.The channel was dugin Roman times, and the passage was charged. The drawbridge over the channel is opened twice a day (at 10:00 and 17:00 hours, for 15 minutes). The bridge opens like a window, fixed on the Lošinj part. The current in the channel is very strong, thanks to the so-called stand-ing wave (French seiche): the interaction of different forces creates a long, almost imperceptible wave, which causes different water levels on two sides of the channel. During the summer, the Osor musical evenings are held. To check the schedule visit www.osorskeveceri.org.

CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 3

Osor and Osoršcica

The view of Osorščica from Mali Lošinj. Osorščica is the volcano-like mountain in the upper right

corner of the photo.

The view of Lošinj island from Osorščica

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CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 4

Lubenice (Watermelons) is located on a cliff 378 meters above sea level. It is a charming town with 4000 years long unbroken history, which now has about 20 residents. There are many assumptions as to how the town got its name, but all that is known with certainty is that it has nothing to do with watermelons. While there are seagulls flying over your head on the coast, here they are circulat-ing among the cliffs beneath your feet. Next to the parking lot there is the church of St. An-thony. If you walk into the church and look outside through the door, you can only see the sea and the sky. The moment you reach the parking lot you will see the endless blue and the islands, but if you proceed to walk down one of the two city streets towards the opposite end of town, there is a wonderful vista point next to where the town cemetery lies. Apart from the sounds made by people you can only hear the sheep, insects, wind and waves from the beach at the bottom of the cliff. The size of the main church is a testament to the im-portance of the town in the past. In the main square there is a water tap with drinking water, which is pro-fusely used by tired hikers climbing from the beach. Lubenice musical evenings take place every year: mu-sical events are held in the open air, during July and Au-gust. Lubenice is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset.There are two beaches at the foot of the hill: Luben-

ice beach and Plave grote (“Blue Rocks” in Croatian), both gravel and approximately same distance from the town, although the Plave grote Beach is located behind a hill so you can not see. The beaches can be reached on foot: you will get to both of them in half hour, but you will need an hour to return. Be sure to avoid going back in the heat and start walking only once the sun is not that strong (however, give your-self enough time so you don’t not have to walk in the dark). Be sure to bring enough water and sunscreen, and make sure to wear good shoes and socks. Plave grote beach was named after the sea cave, which you can swim in. The entrance is located in the southern rock, 30 meters from the beach. Light enters through a sizable hole in the rock below the water level, and the main hall is lit by blue-green light. If possible visit in the afternoon, because that’s when the most beautiful play of light in the crystal water of the main hall takes place.HOW TO GET THERE?Once on the main island road, turn towards Valun, and after 5.2 km turn left for Lubenice. The road is very narrow, and two cars can not pass at the same time. Therefore, drive slowly and use the hard shoulder to bypass. Pay attention to the

“roundabout” in Mali Podol: there is a tree in the middle of the road, and a small chapel. After 5.8 km you will reach the parking lot at the entrance to the town. Parking during the tourist season is charged per day. Paths to the beaches start at the parking lot. There is only one trail, but halfway it branches into sepa-rate paths leading to two different beaches.

Lubenice and Plave groteOsor and Osoršcica

The view of Lubenice beach from Lubenice

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CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 5

According to the legend of Jason and the Argonauts, Medea hacked Apsyrtus’s body and threw the pieces into the sea in order to cover the tracks. However, parts of Apsyrtus’s body turned into islands and islets of this archipelago which is now bearing his name - Apsyrtides. Only the biggest three islands are listed here and you can reach all of them by a regular catamaran line *.

SUSAK consists of thick layers of yellow sand, inflicted on the limestone plate by ancient winds. To prevent erosion, the island is covered with cane plantations. There are two villages on the island, one standing next to the other: Gornje selo - the Upper Village and Donje selo – the Lower Village. People speak an archaic dialect which is so specific that even the inhabitants of the neighboring islands do not understand it and it

has been protected as cultural heritage. Susak female costume is the only one that features a mini-skirt as part of the costume. Since many men had to leave the island due to very difficult life, the legend says that women used to curtail their skirts more and more in order to attract their men back. Little by little they shortened their skirts as much as they could have, but men still left... Thus begins the story of the exodus. Today the island has about 200 permanent residents. The Emmigrants’ Day is a big celebration which involves the entire island, and takes place the last Saturday in July.

From one island to another

A girl wearing Susak folk clothing Susak - Donje Selo and

the sandy beach

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ILOVIK is only 1.7 kilometers far from the island of Lošinj. They call it the island of flowers due to all the oleanders, palm trees and roses growing around houses, and it also has high eucalyptus trees. There is a local cemetery on the nearby uninhabited island of St. Peter. Until the 18th century there were only dwellings for seasonal laborers on the island. If one of them died on Ilovik, the deceased would have been transported by boat to Martvaška Bay (“Dead Man’s Cove”) in the southern part of the island of Lošinj and to the cemetery in Veli Lošinj. Celebration of St. Peter and Paul, the patron saints of the island Ilovik, lasts for two days (28.-29.06.): On the 28th there is a cheerful celebra-tion with a bonfire, and the next day a holy mass is held, followed by a procession with the statues of Saints Apostles Peter and Paul. In the evening there is, of course, another celebration in the main square!

UNIJE attract attention with their picturesque houses. Thanks to sources of drinking water and fertile soil it has always been inhabited. You may see a small plane land on the runway near the town: it is used to trans-port children from Unije island to school in Mali Lošinj. Many people left the island in the past, and it is said that the number of floors belonging to a certain house (and the number of children) tells the exact number of times the owner went to work in the United States and returned home to his island. Festivities for the Unije Emmigrants’ Day last for three days, beginning on the third Thursday in July. On St. Andrew’s Day the traditional “lignjada” is held: residents catch squid the entire day and in the evening a gourmet feast using the caught squid, with music and dancing takes place!

* You can check catamaran timetable at: http://krilo.hr/images/Plovid-beni_red_LOSINJ.pdf.There are shipping lines also, for which timetables can be found at:http://www.agencija-zolpp.hr/Brodskelinije/tabid/1267/Default.aspx

From one island to another

Unije

Ilovik

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When it comes to lamb, family tavern Bukaleta in the village Loznati is definitely the most famous place in the Cres-Lošinj archipelago. In fact, the name of the tavern is rarely mentioned – people simply say -

“I’m going to Loznati” and everyone knows what that means. The village is situated on the crest of the hill, overlooking the bay. The place is decorated in a traditional style, a pleasant terrace surrounded by lush vegeta-tion provides shelter from the relentless sun. Kučica family members will welcome you kindly and present you with their specialties.

SPECIALTIESLamb with new potatoes. Most people come solely because of lamb roasted in a wood-fired oven. Indigenous aromatic herbs (oreg-ano, sage) are added to the fire and its burn-ing gives meat a special flavor. In addition to baked dishes, lamb is also prepared grilled, fried and boiled, and you can eat lamb liver or gnocchi with lamb stew, all made by the original old recipes. Homemade cheese and cottage cheese are served with homemade bread. If you are not a fan of lamb, you will not go wrong by choosing shrimp or fish.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ...................Antica KučicaAddress .................Loznati bb CresPhone ....................051/571-606

Credit Cards ..........All except DinersWeb Page ..............http://goo.gl/ER93tParking ..................In front of the facility

Opening Hours: 01.04.-30.09. 12:00 to 23:00 every day

Getting there:On the main island road, at the intersection 3 km south of the town of Cres, turn towards the village Loznati and drive 1 km, all the way to the end of the village and the road. There is an extension where you can park the car, and you will see a white family house where Tavern Bukaleta is.

The empire of lambBUKALETA (LOZNATI)

Lamb and potatoes under the bell (“ispod peke”)

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BUKALETA (LOZNATI) MARETA (MIHOLAŠCICA)

A family restaurant with delicious local cuisine and fresh fish from the grill is one of the very few in this archipelago that is open all year round. The staff is very friendly and relaxed, the food fresh and excellent, por-tions ample and prices moderate. The in-terior is decorated in the local fishing style while at the terrace framed by greenery you can enjoy the sun, the olive trees and the sea. Tavern owners can often be seen near the house repairing fishing nets. About 200 meters down the road begins a path to the beautiful wide pebbled beach which is only 80 meters long. Beach is about 200 meters long and it faces the west and Zeča island, which is a wonderful place to enjoy the sunset. In Miholašćica Mihovil’s day is celebrated (St. Michael’s day, 29th September), and for the last few years, this cheerful all-night party is held in Mareta.

SPECIALTIESThe inn regularly offers meat, fresh fish and seafood. Depending on time of the year you can encounter an occasional crab dish. We recommend the fried calamari a la Parisian, octopus salad and seafood pasta. If you’re in the mood for meat dishes, mixed grilled meat is always a good choice.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ..........................Vitomir SaganićAddress ........................Miholašćica 2, MartinšćicaPhone ...........................051/574-325

Credit Cards .................AllWeb Page .....................NoneParking .........................No

Opening Hours: every day 09:00 to 22:00

Getting there:On the main island road, turn to Martinšcica. In Stivan follow the signs for Camp Slatina. After 2 km along the road to the right you will see the inn Mareta.

Fresh and local throughout the year´

Miholašćica beach

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The whole area of Punta Križa is very spe-cific, somewhat muddy and swampy it looks different from the rest of the Cres-Lošinj ar-chipelago. You can swim at one of the sandy beaches and if you take a walk through the woods, you will surely bump into the occa-sional fallow deer. Pogana Cove is a treasure known only to few: in order to find it, you must know exactly what and where to look for. However, reaching the finish line will be worth the effort. Small family inn Pogana is situated on the coast in the heart of a shal-low bay. Everything is very relaxed, you can get a drink and sit on a small pier in front of the inn. Cheerful domestic atmosphere is often complemented by spontaneous gigs: the owner plays the accordion, and in the evening other accordionists from the area drop by and create a proper homemade feast, singing and dancing long into the night.

SPECIALTIESYou will face a difficult dilemma: seafood or homemade lamb? There are many places on Cres and Lošinj where you can eat great homemade lamb, but here it is prepared in a slightly different way, which makes it just incredibly juicy and aromatic.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ......................Zlatko MatušanAddress ....................Uvala Pogana bb, NerezinePhone.......................051/235-617

Credit Cards .............NoneWeb Page ................NoneParking.....................In front

Opening Hours: 01.06.-30.09., 09:00 - 24:00 every day

Getting there:At the roundabout in front of Osor, turn to-wards Punta Križa. After 11.5 km you will reach the Punta Križa village. Continue driving for another 3.1 km - the road will take you to the parking area on the coast. Leave the car there and then turn right on the coast (to the north). Pogana inn is located 60 meters from the parking lot.

POGANA (PUNTA KRIŽA)

Hidden sandy playground

(VELI LOŠINJ)

Pogana tavern

The south-eastern part of Cres island, near Pogana

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Tables on the coast, fresh fish dishes on the table. The tavern is located on the far end of the picturesque waterfront in the town of Veli Lošinj, past the big pink church. It opened in the year 1970 and managed to maintain that familiar atmosphere which people like to de-scribe as “Adriatic as it once was.” Veli Lošinj is a small town, so this is actually a tavern located in the very center of town. From the terrace you can enjoy views of both the city and the sea. We recommend arriving at dusk, when the color of the sky blends with the color of the sea and offers a beautiful relaxing scen-ery. The friendly staff speak several languages and will be happy to advise food according to your taste. The portions are huge and the prices are moderate.

SPECIALTIESTavern offers mainly fish and seafood, but if you are not seafood lover you will not go hungry: there are meat dishes. Unlike many seafood restaurants on the coast, you’ll even find fish and seafood stew (brodetto). We recommend the seafood platter and local wine.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ....................Gordana i Mirjana GagićAddress ..................Obala M. Tita 1, Veli Lošinj Phone .....................051/236-235

Credit Cards ........... Am Ex, Visa, MasterCard, MaestroWeb Page ...............NoneParking ...................Main city parking lot

Opening Hours: 01.04.-20.10.: every day from 9:00 - 24:00

Getting there:Park your car in the main parking lot, there are signposts showing directions. Then follow the signs leading towards the center placed throughout the city (on a brown background). After 300 meters you will reach the waterfront. Look for a big pink church - the tavern is lo-cated on the waterfront right behind it.

Seafood specialties on the

picturesque waterfront

POGANA (PUNTA KRIŽA) RIBARSKA KOLIBA (VELI LOŠINJ)

Ribarska koliba tavern, located at the entrance to Veli Lošinj bay(lower left part of the photo)

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Northern, wooded part of the island of Cres is called Tramuntana. Upon entering the picturesque town of Beli you will reach a guest-house Tramuntana, located in a large old house that exudes familiar atmos-phere. Cozy interior is decorated in a maritime style and welcomes guests with a large sign featuring Plutarch’s famous phrase “Navigare necesse est, vivere non necesse est” (Latin for “to sail is necessary, to live is not necessary”). The terrace overlooks the town of Beli, sea, the island of Krk and the Velebit mountain. Beli looks like a cap on top of the hill while at the foot of the hill there are beautiful beaches which can be reached on foot or by car. If you feel like walking through a wooded nature of Tramuntana, you can choose among seven beautiful marked trails. You can read more on the eco trails in Tramuntana on page 73.

SPECIALTIESWith the ubiquitous lamb, you can try the island dishes such as polen-ta with goat cheese, cream and sage, smoked pork loin on the grill or game sausages in the autumn. If you are not a fan of meat, the tavern also offers a vegetarian platter. They also make their own homemade ice cream, with mint, basil, cottage cheese, etc., but tastes change on daily basis.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ...................Robert MalatestinićAddress .................Beli 2, CresPhone ....................051/840-519

Credit Cards ..........AllWeb Page ..............www.beli-tramontana.comParking ..................In front of the facility

Opening Hours 15.03.-30.10., 12:00 - 22:00 every day

Getting there:On the main island road, turn to Beli and continue driving for 7 km. After a yellow sign marking Beli there is a sharp turn to the right. 50 meters after sharply turn uphill to the left. After 200 meters you will reach the parking lot that belongs to Tramuntana.

Among The Shady Oaks And

Griffon Vultures

TRAMUNTANA (BELI)

The interior

Grilled scampi

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TRAMUNTANA (BELI) PAG TRIP No. 1

One of the few places in the Mediter-ranean where Olea oleaster (meaning wild olive) grows is definitely Lun on the Island of Pag. If you decide to walk the macadam road through olive groves you will enjoy a land-scape saturated with tree roots dating from biblical times. Grown together with the sur-rounding rocks it seems as if the olive trees have been here from the beginning of time. A walk through this magnificent landscape, enriched with the sounds of crickets chirping, sheep bleating and that special sound of the sea murmuring in the distance will feed your eyes and your soul.Mediterranean forest sort – wild olive, lat. Olea Oleaster Linea is very rare today. Most of the countries in the Mediterranean today have not managed to preserve areas where wild olives can be found in their natural environment any-more, unlike Lun. Such a unique architecture of natural forms where trees are intertwined with rocks can be found in Israel and Greece, but according to experts from the Faculty of Forestry in Karlovac, the olive trees of Lun are special in their large number in their natural environment, as well as their old age. Local people have always assumed that their olives were hundreds of years old, but in order

to scientifically support those beliefs, in 2007 the trees have undergone a scientific analysis in order to determine their real age. It has been established that more than a hundred olive trees were more than a thousand years old, while the oldest one was around 1600 years old making the olives of Lun some of the oldest in the world! Part of that area had been protected and in the year 1963 it has been de-creed a botanical reserve. In order for the visitors to make their way easier a few new signs have been placed at the location in the year 2007. The walking trail through the olive groves has been cleared and made accessible at the request of a group of younger residents with the support of the mayor and the town of Novalja.Almost every family from Lun and its sur-rounding inherited olive trees in the olive groves of Lun where today they make won-derful olive oil.

HOW TO GET THERE?There is a roundabout on the north part of No-valja where you have to go north, towards Lun. After 16.3 km you will see a small green sign by the road directing you towards the olive groves of Lun. 50m further there is also a bill-board showing the map of the olive grove as well as the turning towards the macadam road.

Olive Groves of Lun

The amazing shapes of ancient olive trees

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PAG TRIP No. 2

St. Vid is the highest peak of the island (348 m) and is located right above the Pag bay. From the top you can enjoy a breathtaking view of Pag, Kolan, Šimuni, Mandre, Košljun and you can also see the neigh-boring islands of Rab, Mali Lošinj, Silba, Olib, Maun and Lukar, as well as a part of Northern Velebit National Park. At the top of the peak there is a concrete geodetic pillar, adorned by the remains of the chapel of St. Vid dating back to 1348. The peak was named after the chapel. The climb to St. Vid makes a delightful addition to a day on the beach, although it is great throughout the year. You will enjoy the view of the empire of white-blue island rocks interspersed with a network of stone walls, once important in terms of livestock and protection of soil from the north wind.

Pag is considered to be the most barren Adriatic island because 86% of its surface has no vegetation.There are three marked paths that lead to the top, the easiest to climb being the one from Kolan, which lasts about an hour and 15 minutes. The beginning of the marked trail to the top is on the serpentine about 600 meters before the Kolan. Leave the car at the extended part and take the path to the vineyards and stone walls. Behind the walls you will see a large number of sheep. After half an hour of walking the landscape begins to change, and it is taken over by stone hills. Rocky landscape might look empty, but is full of sage, immortelle and sheep.Since there is no shelter, shade or drinking water to be found through-out the way, it is best to avoid this trip in the heat. Pay attention to weather forecast. Also, beware of the black widow spider. Take plenty of fluids, wear proper shoes and preferably long pants.

Hiking on Pag: St. Vid

St. Vid’s chapel

The view from St. Vid

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PAG TRIP No. 3Hiking on Pag: St. Vid

It is a real surprise to be able to find ar-eas containing healing mud and a few large swamp areas inhabited by different bird spe-cies on an island that appears to be built out of rocks and salt. Birdwatching in their natural habitat has been popular worldwide for dec-ades. It is now gaining popularity in Croatia, as well. In the beginning it was mostly foreign tourists who were interested in birdwatch-ing but now more and more local people are becoming interested. There are ornithological reserves in different parts of Croatia and one of them is located here: Veliko Blato has been a protected ornithological reserve since 1988. This natural reservoir of water located about 10km south east of the town of Pag is one of the rare island swamp areas. Swamp biotopes in Europe are more and more endangered and they are slowly disappearing. This fact makes a swamp area this well pre-served a true rarity. Close to Veliko Blato there is Malo Blato, and close to Gajac near Novalja there is Kolansko Blato. More than 160 bird species nest in Veliko Blato. Many of them have been endangered species not only in Europe but in Croatia, as well. In

order to visit Veliko Blato ornithological reserve tickets must be bought in the Povljana tourist office which also sells permits for freshwater fishing. Daily and weekly fishing permits are available.There is a large number of well maintained bike trails on the Island of Pag. Some of them pass through this area, such is Ptica –Veliko Blato (bike trail nr. 04). Take the trail nr. 2 and after 4km of you will reach a turn that will take you to Ptica –Veliko Blato trail. It is mostly a narrow, asphalt road with very light traffic. After 2.9 km you will reach the Veliko Blato ornithological reserve area. Trail ends about 5.5 km far from Vlašići, where next to a beautiful beach there is also a healing mud location. Healing mud can also be found in other areas, such is Povljana, while in the town of Pag there is a natural healing spot rich with mud sedi-ment. Mud found in Pag has a distinctive sul-furic smell, and it is only used within an hour after being dug out since it later loses its heal-ing powers. The use of mud is free and available to anyone. You can find out more about bike trails on the Island of Pag by visiting: www.pag-tourism.hr

HOW TO GET THERE?Take the main road from the town of Pag to-wards the south. After 13km you will reach an intersection where you will take the right turn following the sign towards Smolvica and Vlašići. After 500m you will reach another intersection where you will take the right turn following the sign with “Ornitološki rezervat Veliko Blato” written on it. 1.7 km later on your left hand side you will see the turn towards the macadam road where you will see a larger sign with

“Ornitološki rezervat Veliko Blato” written on it.

Swamps and healing muds of Pag

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Except for a network of dry wall, the rocky land-scape of Pag offers another curiosity: peculiar tri-angle of Pag which inflames many people’s imagi-nation. It is an isosceles triangle with 32x32x22m dimensions. It has been discovered in 1999 on Tusto Čelo, north east of the town of Pag, not far from the Žigljen ferry port. The triangle is imprinted in the rocky landscape and geological research has shown that rocks found on the inside of the triangle are lighter in color, and when exposed to ultraviolet light they radiate red color (red color shows that the rocks inside the tri-angle have been thermally processed). The triangle was discovered by a geologist Zdenko Grbavac in 1999 while performing geodetic works for a quarry location on Tusto čelo hill. Public announce-ment of the triangle discovery attracted numerous tourists and people interested in this discovery especially after sightings of mysterious lights seen around the time of the discovery. The entire matter is still a true sensation for the ufologists. The structure of the rocks inside the triangle is different than the structure of rocks from outside the triangle. Further geological research showed that the rocks from inside the triangle radiated red color when exposed to ultraviolet light. Rocks radiate that color when ex-posed to strong thermal processes, similar to those that take place inside volcanoes. According to the level of radiation the scientists have calculated that

the thermal exposure must have occurred 12 000 years ago. However, geologists agree that there were no volcanic activities on the Island of Pag present 12 000 years ago nor later. Due to long term exposure to atmospheric activities, red radiation is only visible on the side of the rocks turned towards the soil. Similar characteristics have not been found on rocks in the vicinity of the trian-gle of Pag. Due to different speculations and rumors about supernatural or healing powers of the rocks many visitors took pieces of rocks leaving gaps in the triangle itself. The town of Novalja protected the area where the triangle is located in the year 2000.

HOW TO GET THERE?Take the road from the Žigljen ferry port and after 2.8 km make a left turn towards the south. After about 1km you will have to stop the car, park it and proceed on foot for two more kilometers while paying atten-tion to signs.

PAG TRIP No. 4The Pag triangle

The Pag triangle

The sign leading to the triangle

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PAG TRIP No. 5THE PREMUŽIC TRAILA walk among the clouds

The Premužić trail is a hiking trail passing through high parts of the northern and central Velebit. Željko Poljak’s book named “50 Most Beautiful Hiking Trails in Croatia” rated the trail with top grades making it the highest rated in Croatia. The trail passes through most inaccessible but also the most beautiful parts of Velebit mountain landscape which until the trail was built (1930-1933) were known to only a small amount of people. It is marked by stone walled ser-pentines, brick walls, half tunnels and bridges. Due to the quality of craftsmanship and its blending with the nature this trail is the pearl of trail building in Croatia. It is named after a forestry engineer Ante Premužić (1889-1979) who at the time of its building worked as a construction officer in Forestry management in Sušak. He designed the trail, organized its building and participated in it. It was built using a dry wall technique passed from one generation to another by residents living in the valleys below the Velebit mountain. Most of them also participated in building it. The trail has been traced, so there are no big climbs. It is located 1600m above sea level almost all the time. The difference in altitude between its highest and the lowest point is only 200m throughout its length.The trail is 57 km long. The first 16 km (8-9 hours walk) the trail passes through Northern Velebit Na-tional Park area. Usually people start hiking from the

north, starting at Zavižan mountain hut (1594 m), then walk over the Veliki Alan pass (1412 m) all the way to Oštarijska vrata (927 m). There are beautiful vistas offered along the entire trail. You can see the Velebit landscapes as well as the islands and the sea.

GETTING THEREApproximately 76 km from Prizna ferry port. Take the main road to Sveti Juraj (42 km far from Prizna), and make a turn towards Krasno. After 15 km, pull off of the Sveti Juraj – Krasno road and make a right turn 200 m after Oltari village. Follow the signs towards Zavižan. After a 17 km drive on a solid macadam road you will reach a mountain hut on Zavižan.Mountain hut on Zavižan is located on the 1594 m altitude. From there you can enjoy the view of almost entire mid Adriatic. You can see the following islands: Pag, Cres, Rab, Lošinj, Goli Otok, Krk, and many others. It is a very special experience to watch the sun set from the terrace of the hut. You can even spend the night at the hut. It is also possible to buy a bottle of excellent Velebit mountain herb brandy made from a number of herbs growing in the fresh Velebit air. Apart from the mountain hut there is also a botanical garden worth seeing here, as well as the beginning of the great Premužić trail .

´

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ARKA (STARA NOVALJA)

A quiet cove, sea view and a seafood restau-rant – this is the best description of the family restaurant Arka, located on the sea coast in a family house in Stara Novalja. Stara Novalja is a relaxed and peaceful town, 5 km away from Novalja. The terrace of the restaurant is facing west so you can enjoy the view of the sunset over the hills on the long side of the bay. The staff is very friendly and the restaurant has a free wireless internet connection. The house has a small beach where you can sunbathe and 2.5 km to the south at the beginning of

the gulf, there is a large sandy beach called Trinćel. The beach is cov-ered with fine sand, it is warm and shallow and ideal for parents with small children.

SPECIALTIESAlong with excellent classic dishes, there are also the so-called “special offer” meals available here, meaning that those can not be found on à la carte menu. Therefore it would be best to phone the restaurant a day in advance and agree on the menu. Sounds complicated, but it’s worth the effort: meals such as sea urchin, sea snail salad, stew or rare shells (dondole, clams, klapuni), all require specific food while dishes like lamb stew pasticada require long cooking. It is clear from this that in Arka there is no reheating previously prepared or frozen meals, but only freshly prepared meals are served. You will be pleasantly surprised by the prices, which can be checked on their website prior to visiting.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Josip PeranićAddress .................. Kaštel 19a, Stara NovaljaPhone ..................... 053/651-125

Credit Cards ........... NoneWeb Page ............... www.arka.com.hrParking ................... In front of the tavern

Opening Hours 01.06. –30.09. 11:00. – 23:00 every day

Getting there: When you reach Trinćel by the main road from Novalja, located at the beginning of the bay and when you pass the yellow sign with the name of the city, continue along the same road for another 2.6 km. On the left you will see the label saying Arka Restaurant.

A family house on the beach

Arka restaurant

Stara Novalja bay and Trinćel beach

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ARKA (STARA NOVALJA)

Among the stone walls there is an open fireplace and a few thick wooden tables with benches. Above the bar there are dip candles, decanters and an old iron. Every part of the tavern attracts attention with an-tique details, such is a box of an old radio that emits silent music, and actually hides a modern stereo inside. Everything you see is created and single-handedly made by the owner himself, who has invested many years of love and effort in this tavern. Hardwork-ing and skilled, the owner and his son are constantly at work and care about the sat-isfaction of their guests. The tavern is a gathering place for the locals and the well-informed tourists, and often good food and drinks lead to a song. In winter months the older locals play cards here and sip spritzer or wine, while on Sundays they sing their Dalmatian folk songs. The tavern is sometimes a place where tournaments of briscola and other card games are held.

SPECIALTIESCheese, ham and wine! The right combination for the right tavern. The owner will cut cheese and ham in front of you, and bring it back to the table on a cutting board. Definitely take their wine, and excellent homemade grappa “Bile” with olives, anchovies and bread. In the open hearth fish and meat are baked.

BASIC INFORMATION

Owner ...........................Josip Paro - VidolinAddress ........................Jurja Dalmatinca 35, PagPhone ...........................023/611-127

Credit Cards ..................NoneWeb Page .....................NoneParking .........................None

Opening Hours: 11:30 – 23:00 every day

Getting there:The tavern is located in the city center, Jurja Dobrile street, beginning with the right side of the Church of the Assump-tion of Mary, the main church of Pag.

“Tavern” in a pure sense of wordBILE (PAG)

A cheerful crowd at Bile tavern

Homemade prosciutto

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This fantastic fish restaurant offers pris-tine gourmet experience. It might not attract with its looks, but with food prepared with love and attention. Mandre is a charming fishing village with a lovely sheltered bay, with its larger area that eventually grew into a tourist resort. The locals did fishing since ancient times, and even today you can see trawlers and other small fishing boats in Mandre port (harbor). Zubović family mem-bers are active fishermen, so the seafood served at the restaurant is always fresh and caught by the owners themselves. After a delicious meal at this family tavern it would not be a bad idea to take a walk down the promenade (waterfront, coastal footpath).

SPECIALTIESThe food is simple and great, made with fresh, quality ingredients. Of course, this being a fishing village, it is recommended that you have seafood: most popular dishes include grilled calamari, mussels, grilled marinated shrimps, sardines, octopus salad ... You can not miss.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .......................Marina Zubović Address .....................Lungo Mare 9, MandrePhone........................023/697-114

Credit Cards ........ Diners, Visa, Maestro, MaterCardWeb Page ................. NoneParking................ In front of the facility

Opening Hours 12:00 – 24:00 every day from 01.05./30.09.

Getting there:From the harbor downtown move down the Ribarska street to the south. Ribarska street is parallel with the coast. After 250 meters on the right side of the street you will see a sign Tavern Bonaca and an arrow directing to the parking of the tavern.

Guests always come back for moreBONACA (MANDRE)

Fried anchovies

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BOŠKINAC (NOVALJA)

Pure RomanceBoškinac restaurant is located on a hill under a thick pine forest, right on the edge of a sea of vineyards and olive groves and all the way to “Zaglava” - a traditional field for sheep grazing. The area is really beauti-ful, and the restaurant terrace was created for relaxation and enjoyment. An evening with candles gets a special romantic touch. You can start with relaxation in the wine cellar. Wine selection is great, and they also produce their own wine. After that take a sit on the terrace with a beautiful view over the Novalja plain, try out the best cheeses of Pag and opt for a meal prepared from local ingredients. Slightly more expensive than most restau-rants in this guide, but a special atmosphere this place offers will not leave you cold.

SPECIALTIESAlong with classical dishes, creative reinterpretation of traditional cuisine is at work in Boškinac tavern. What does that mean? It means that creative island cuisine is nurtured here and featured in a “different way”, dishes are prepared from fresh seasonal ingredients and herbs (bay leaves, sage, mint, etc.) that grow nearby, all with the intent to show the richness of fruits growing in Pag region. Along with indispensable Pag curd, lamb and sage honey, try lamb stew with Novalja macaroni and cold soup made of melon and cucumber with homemade sherry.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner ...................... Boris ŠuljićAddress .................... Novaljsko polje bb, NovaljaPhone ....................... 053/663-500

Credit Cards ............. AllWeb Page: ................ www.boskinac.comParking ..................... Yes

Opening Hours: 12:00 – 24:00 every day from 03.01./10.02.

Getting there:Boškinac Restaurant is located 2 km from Novalja. Take the road to Stara Novalja, af-ter 800 meters turn right and continue for another 1.2 km to the restaurant. At each intersection you will be guided by signposts towards Boškinac.

ˇThe amazing view from the terrace

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Kolan is a village in the inner part of the island, not visited by many tourists. The hills, which are located around the Kolan, seemingly without vegetation, incorporate pastures rich with aromatic plants salted by the strong wind blowing in Pag. Kolan locals are mainly occupied with sheep farming and viticulture, so do not miss lamb and wine at the Giardin tavern! Long tradition and relaxed atmosphere are two main charac-teristics of this tavern. The combination of delicious food, friendly staff and a relaxed friendly atmosphere attracts more informed tourists and locals who gather there to play

cards or sing songs. It is known that the locals are the best indicator of the food certainly being excellent. Large wooden tables are placed under a wooden shed decorated with fishing nets. You can also drop by to the family Gligor ran dairy, which is located on the northern part of Kolan.

SPECIALTIESOctopus and/or lamb are unavoidable! Still, if you would like some-thing different, try the “vrpca – (ribbon)” - turkey steak stuffed with homemade cheese, or pork chops stuffed with ricotta cheese. Grilled Pag curd is also very tasty. Treat yourself with a dessert and have the pancakes. Food is prepared in the open hearth, and the portions are huge.

BASIC INFORMATION Owner .................... Nikola KustićAddress .................. KolanPhone ..................... 023/698-007

Credit Cards ........... NoneWeb Page ............... www.konobagiardin.comParking ................... In front of the facility

Opening Hours outside tourist season: every day 07:00-21:00during season: every day 07:00 – 23:00

Getting there:Kolan is located on the island’s main road. Once on the main road turn onto the road that runs through the Kolan center. In the middle of the town, you will see the Giardin tavern located under a large pine.

At the heart of the island everyone

is welcome

GIARDIN (KOLAN)

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RONA PLUS: Combine your own ideal holiday! 2 CAPE KAMENJAK 4THE PARENZANA 6ISTRIAN CAVES 8ŠKARLINE CANYON 10ISTRA TRIP No. 01 14ISTRA TRIP No. 02 16ISTRA TRIP No. 03 18ISTRA TRIP No. 04 20ISTRA TRIP No. 05 22ISTRA INSPIRIT 24ALLA BECCACCIA (VALBANDON) 26ASTAREA (BRTONIGLA) 27BETIGA (BETIGA) 28BORGONJA (VIŠNJAN) 29BUŠCINA (BUŠCINA) 30DANIJELI (NEAR KRINGA) 31EMA (VRANJA) 32FAKIN (MOTOVUN) 33STARE STAZE (KRŠAN) 34HUMSKA KONOBA 35KAŽETA (KADUMI) 36KOD KAŠTELA (SVETVINČENAT) 37LOGGIA (OPRTALJ) 38MARINO (GRAČIŠĆE) 39MARTIN PESCADOR (TRGET) 40MORGAN (BRTONIGLA) 41NA KAPELI (MILINKI) 42NONO (PETROVIJA) 43POD NAPUN (MOTOVUN) 44RINO (MOMJAN) 45SANTA CROCE (ROVINJ) 46STARA OŠTARIJA (BUZET) 47STARI COK (VALTURA) 48VALTER (KOLINASI) 49VELA VRATA (BERAM) 50VELI JOŽE (ROVINJ) 51VERALDA (BRTONIGLA) 52VODNJANKA (PULA) 53

VRH (VRH) 54DOL (GOLOGORICA) 55FAMILIJA FERLIN (GRŽINI) 56MONTIŽEL (ZAVRŠJE) 57OGRADE (KATUN LINDARSKI) 58TIKEL (ŠPINOVCI) 59TONČIĆ (ČABARNICA, NEAR ZRENJ) 60BABIĆ (NOVIGRAD) 61BAŽON (GRACIŠCE) 62CUJ (SV. MARIJA NA KRASU) 63IPŠA (IPŠI) 64OLEUM VITAE (KRASICA) 65RADOVAN (RADOVANI) 66KUMPARIČKA (KRNICA) 67OPATIJA 68TRAMERKA (VOLOSKO) 70ARCHIE’S FAST FOOD (OPATIJA) 71BOĆARIJA (OPATIJA) 71CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 1 72CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 2 73CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 3 74CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No. 4 75CRES-LOŠINJ TRIP No 5 76BUKALETA (LOZNATI) 78MARETA (MIHOLAŠČICA) 79POGANA (PUNTA KRIŽA) 80RIBARSKA KOLIBA (VELI LOŠINJ) 81TRAMUNTANA (BELI) 82PAG TRIP No. 1 83PAG TRIP No. 2 84PAG TRIP No. 3 85PAG TRIP No. 4 86PAG TRIP No. 5 87ARKA (STARA NOVALJA) 88BILE (PAG) 89BONACA (MANDRE) 90BOŠKINAC (NOVALJA) 91GIARDIN (KOLAN) 92

CONTENTS:

Your holiday pleasure

is our responsibility!

Publisher: RONA TRADE d.o.o., Publisher for: Roman Cvek - Texts: Jelena Bičanić-ŠčedrovPhoto: www.fotolia.com | www.dreamstime.com | www.photonet.hr | TZZI | Istra Inspirit | Morten Smalby

www.colorsofistria.com | www.baredine.com | arhiv Rona trade d.o.o. - Prepress: Vladimir Šijan - Print: Tiskara Velika Gorica

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