Rodes

RodesForum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2012

FASHION AND FANTASY

DESERT DREAMS

THE JACKETAN INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH

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Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633)

www.rodes.com4938 Brownsboro Road,

Louisville, KY 40222

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg GrossmanDESIGN DIRECTOR

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Lisa MontemorraDESIGNERS

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FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER

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FEATURES3 Welcome Letter4 Happenings 52 Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant72 Escapes: Star Treatment

FASHION13 The Right Track for Spring33 Ladies Accessories: Post Parade 34 Style: Discover Your Inner Italian 42 Profile: Samuelsohn48 Suiting: Tailored to Perfection54 A Walk in the Walled City62 The Jacket 70 No Black Shoes

DEPARTMENTS 38 Ask Jim40 Ask Susan 68 World Scene76 End Page: Pull it Together

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welcom

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Pictured above are the people you see when you shop with us, your first point of contact. Our starring cast! Theseprofessionals strive to give you an oasis in life. A place to have some fun and get a respite from the world. Theywake up every day to be the best they can and make your life a little better.

Behind the scenes this troupe has daily huddles to discuss how to best serve you. We share customer service sto-ries, best practices and information about new products and upcoming events at Rodes.

On March 17th we celebrate our 98th Anniversary, the same day as the Rodes City Run which benefits theCrusade for Children. The reason we get to enjoy that milestone is because of you. We strive every day to give youthe finest shopping experience and products the world has to offer. Our cast of characters stands ready to serve!

See you around town…

Susan and Howard Vogt

THE STAGE IS SET

3

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TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!H A P P E N I N G SR

@ RODES &AROUND TOWN

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T H E U L T I M A T E T R O U S E R

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WHEN YOU SADDLE UP

for DERBY?

WHAT'S YOUR BEST SUIT


KATE WINSLETExperience the whole story at DISCOVERSTJOHN.COM

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IN THE 1960s film La Dolce Vita,main character Marcello Rubini(played to perfection by MarcelloMastroianni) wears a series ofform-fitting two-button suits fea-turing curvaceous lapels, soft natu-

ral shoulders and cigarette-cutslacks. When not wearing a shirtand tie, he opts for Johnny collarknit shirts accented with a scarf orascot, casually knotted at the neckin a way only the most debonairItalian men are capable of pullingoff with effectiveness.

No one ever second guesses thecharacter’s (supposedly a journal-ist) sense of style. Forget the factthat no American journalist—except the occasional fashion edi-tor or perhaps the novelist TomWolfe—dresses with suchunabashed sartorial flair. In Italy,whether students, statesmen orstreet sweepers, most men natural-ly possess a sense of chic thateludes the rest of us.

Italians grow up in a culturewhere sartorial style is taken forgranted. “We have a native predis-position for elegance and style, acharacteristic that has been devel-oped and improved upon overtime,” explains Elisabetta Canali,scion of the Canali clothing family.“Good taste and savoir faire arejust a part of the Italian culture.”

By way of tailors (found on everystreet corner), Italian men learnabout fine fabrics, the importance

DRESS LIKE YOU WERE BORN INTO LA DOLCE VITA. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

DISCOVER YOURINNER ITALIAN

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of a razor-sharp fit and how to mixand match shirts, ties and acces-sories. Moreover, through experi-ence and experimentation theydiscover that a suit with a higharmhole isn’t necessarily tight anduncomfortable—just the opposite,in fact. Most important, they train

themselves not to be afraid ofcolor for fear of being bullied orjudged. Just as “it is important formen to choose the right silhouettein order to feel most comfortable,it is equally important to work withcolor to give each outfit someexcitement,” adds Canali.

“A man should look for a suithe can wear, and not a suit thatwill wear him. In other words, ele-

gance, sophistication and timelessstyle are always better than of-the-moment trends, which will date thewearer,” offers Giorgio Armani.“As for style, a two-button suit ismore timeless than a three- or aone-button. A single-breasted ismore versatile than double, allow-ing you to dress your suit up ordown more freely and use the jack-et as a separate more easily.”Finally, says Mr. Armani,“Confidence and a sense of humormake a man sexy.”

Dressing like an Italian is aboutdiscovering a sense of balance,proportion, color and pattern. Onecan begin to develop Italian-esquestyle with a few simple tricks: • Wear dark sunglasses,

Mastroianni style, in any weather. • Don loafers without socks.• Drape and loosely knot a colorful

sweater over your shoulders. • Carry an oversized bag across

your chest.• Secure your necktie with a knot

large enough to land a smallplane on.

• Add a notice-me belt (white is anoption even in winter) to bring atouch of panache to your jeans.

• Wear a coordinating top coatover your suit or sportcoat.

• Consider flat-front red pants orwhite jeans.If you’re worried about remem-

bering these rules, turn to adesigner collection, like LucianoBarbera or Brunello Cucinelli, forinspiration that can help make theprocess a bit easier. Barberaprefers a bit of formality in hischeck cashmere sportcoats, wornwith crisp cotton shirts, wool ties

and flat-front trousers. He also rec-ommends brown suede shoes withmost outfits to give your look asporty yet sophisticated edge.

The Cucinelli formula is equallydistinctive: trim-cut gray flannelslacks or jeans, a knit shirt and/orpullover sweater, and a gray cash-mere blazer with suede elbowpatches and a turned up collar.Since Armani invented his slouchysuits in the ’80s, few designersuntil Cucinelli have seen their“look” adopted by such an eclecticassortment of men—from the 70-year-old businessman to the 25-year-old college student.

“I think it’s very important howwe put things together,” saysCucinelli, one of the few Italiandesigners who espouses facial hairwith his cashmere blazers. “I like toshow clothing, even tailored pieces,in a sporty chic way that is ageless.Because when I’m 50 years old, likeeveryone else, I want to lookyounger,” adds the designer (whoclaims to be 49, despite what itsays on his birth certificate).

Cucinelli designs each piece soit can be worn on its own and in avariety of ways. “A 25-year-old manis not going to wear a classic pin-stripe suit,” he says, suggesting

that a tailored gray cashmere blaz-er over khakis or jeans can beequally elegant, depending on theman wearing it.

Bottom line: open your mind andexperiment with your wardrobe tofind your perfect style. After all,you may be able to afford a Guccisuit or Prada loafers, but that cashregister receipt doesn’t come witha diploma in style.

36

“ELEGANCE, SOPHISTICATION AND TIMELESS STYLE ARE ALWAYS BETTER THANOF-THE-MOMENT TRENDS.”—GIORGIO ARMANI

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SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HIM

Q: I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holdingup pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them?

Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style.Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a bal-anced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, two-buttons are in and pleated pants are out!

The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea toinvest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construc-tion and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights yourshape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speedwith updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick upa few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins thesilhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Q: What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current forspring/summer 2012?

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way toupdate is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright col-ors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or softcoats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few timesfor relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with onesthat are fit to be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani.

The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers thatflip-flops are strictly for the beach, but deck shoes offer a perfect footwear optionfor casual style. Try them with colorful shorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazerfor evening. Drivers and loafers are always safe bets, too.

Q: My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the samesuits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Mid-weight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regular-weight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabrictypes are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersuckerin lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannelin darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.

ASKJIM29 ASK JIM_For Him.qxp:RODE_ 2/1/12 2:26 PM Page 38

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SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HERASKSUSAN

Q: It seems that prints are everywhere, but I’ve never consideredmyself a “prints person.” Help!

From bold geometrics to dreamy florals, our favorite designers are offeringall manner of fabulous prints for 2012. With so many to choose from, there’ssomething out there for everyone. If you’re new to prints, an easy way tointroduce them into your wardrobe is with a flowy, romantic dress or blouse.There are no hard and fast rules, so the most important thing is to come inand start trying things on! Don’t discount anything until you see how itlooks on you. We promise to help you find a pretty print you can wear withconfidence, and put the spring back in your step this season.

Q: What can I do to add some more visual interest to anall-white outfit?

If you thought white was boring, or that you could only wear it a few monthsout of the year, you might be surprised at the lighthearted—and light col-ored—fashions that dominated this season’s runways. You can add bothnewness and longevity to your wardrobe by layering different tones (brightwhite, cream and taupe) and contrasting textures (pique, eyelet, embroideryand knit). This look is all about approachability and ease, so try a loose,sheer blouse over a georgette cami, or top a silky slipdress with a chunkycardigan. And don’t forget to carefully consider your undergarments, the lit-eral foundation for any successful white ensemble.

Q: Asymmetric hemlines look great on the runway, but how can Itranslate the look for real life?

Skirts, dresses and tops with asymmetric cuts are hot right now, so you’ll beremiss if you let their tricky fits scare you away! Don’t be dismayed if youtry it on and it doesn’t look exactly like it did on the model. This style is allabout proportion, but you can always have a piece tailored and tweaked toflatter your particular shape. Working with your associate is key: she canpoint you toward the pieces that will work for you, help you decide whatalterations to make, and suggest the perfect footwear to complete the look.

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DESIGNED BY EDWARD WILKERSON

LAFAYETTE148NY.COM

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ounded in 1923,Samuelsohn is aMontreal-based clothingcompany with a reputa-tion for excellence basedon fine tailoring, luxuryfabrics, unusual atten-

tion to detail and modern style. For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring

means fully-basted canvas con-struction: there is no glue in theinterlinings of their suits, so thatthe garment maintains its shape,fit and comfort even after repeatedcleanings. Their luxury fabrics arefrom the best mills in Italy andEngland, featuring cashmere,camel hair, superfine wools, Pimacotton, Italian silk and preciousfibers like vicuna and yangir.Hand-tailored details includeBemberg linings, corozo or hornbuttons, silk threads and labels,and Italian cotton pocketing.

But perhaps Samuelsohn’s realsecret weapon is its designer,Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grewup working for his family’s clothingcompany in Montreal beforelaunching his own in the late 1990s.Respected as one of the most tal-ented designers in the industry,he’s also known for his dapper per-

sonal style. Here, we speakwith him about tailored cloth-ing, and about what makes awell-dressed man.

What’s so special about aSamuelsohn suit?It’s about hand-craftsmanship:each suit takes six and a halfhours of labor, more than manyof the well-known designerbrands that arealmost twice theprice. Are theymade totallyby hand?No. If wecould auto-mate it all, wewould. But thereare severalprocesses amachine can’tduplicate: the hand-basting, the hand-sewn armholes, theshoulder. Certainsteps can be automat-ed and you won’t seethe difference, butothers cannot. Mostimportantly, technol-

OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

SAMUELSOHN:

NEVER COMPROMISE

prof

ile

Samuelsohndesigner ArnoldBrant Silverstone

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ogy has not been able to duplicatea full canvas garment. Cheapersuits look okay on a hanger sincethe shape comes from pressing.But after dry cleaning, that shapeis gone.Your suits are known for acertain “expression”—whatdoes this mean?It means the garments are not flat:there’s a certain dimension, a soft-ness, a sexiness. After all, thehuman body is not flat, so a well-tailored suit should also haveshape and dimension.What should guys look forwhen buying a suit?The most important thing is fit:when you put on the garment, itshould make you look better. Awell-tailored suit hides myriadimperfections and moves with you.The shoulders should be on you,not out to there. Today, men arewearing suits closer to the body,but that shouldn’t mean you losecomfort. It’s like driving a greatsports car and really feeling theroad. When you wear a quality suit,it moves with you.How can guys look elegantwhen they’re not wearingsuits?The biggest problem is when menequate casual with not caring, with

throwing on jeans and a T-shirt.The best-dressed men put thoughtinto dressing: casual might meanbeautifully tailored cotton pantsand a soft jacket or a lightweightknit cashmere sweater or a coolreversible outerwear piece. Thinkback to the best-dressed men overthe decades: The Rat Pack, James

Bond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant,George Clooney… However casualthe look, it was well thought-out,not thrown together, reflectingtheir personal style.What are the key items aman should have forspring/summer 2012?1) A great summer suit, maybe atropical wool in British tan or dovegray. 2) A performance blazer orsuit, either with high-twist yarns orsome Lycra. Most guys these daysare traveling or on the move butthere’s no reason not to look crisp…3) A cool outerwear piece: some-thing reversible or with interiorpockets or truly transitional andmulti-functional. 4) A soft coat.We’re famous for ours: they looktailored but weigh next to nothing.What’s the secret of successfor a clothing manufacturer?Passion! I’ve been doing this formore than 20 years; I inherited thepassion from my parents. But inaddition to passion, one needs aspirit of innovation. We’re on topof the latest fabrics, fits, technolo-gies. We’re always pushing theenvelope, never satisfied with thestatus quo. We want the customerto say “WOW!” every time he putson one of our garments. That’s mypassion, and my mission.

How would you describeyour own personal style? I like to look contemporary: notblending in with the crowd but notblatantly standing out. I like cloth-ing that’s special, with the focus onfit, quality and elegance. That’s theway I like to dress and the kind ofclothing I love to design!

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE.

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Winning Looks D E R B Y E V E N T

R E L A X . R E J U V E N A T E . R E N E W .

CaloSpa Rejuvenation Center is the perfect venue for a stylish

evening dedicated to helping you prepare for the Derby

season. Enjoy spirits and hors d’oeuvres with local boutiques

modeling stunning and inspirational fashions.

A stylist will be on hand to help you fi nesse your personal

look and a milliner will be available to pick the perfect hat to

compliment your attire. Also, learn from Calospa’s specialists

about the Trifecta and Exacta pre-Derby facial treatments.

We hope you’ll join us for this spectacular event. Space is

limited. MUST be on RSVP list at door. RSVP by visiting

www.calospa.com/winninglooks or call 502.899.9982.

CALL OR CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR DATE AND TIME.

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RMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring 2012 is anexquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say,took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just intime for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniver-sary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic

that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waistand natural, semi-constructed shoulders.

Like all Zegna suits this season, the newMilano, available in both single and double-breasted, is interpreted in a range of color-

ful natural fabrics that appear to bebleached by the sun, with an ever-so-slight sheen reminiscent ofsharkskin clothing from the 1950s.But the Milano is tailored with adecidedly modern sensibility. Thejacket is cut slightly shorter andfeatures just a hint more interiorcanvas—as many as three layers—for structure, yet the finished gar-ment remains remarkably light-weight. The defining element is

the barchetta, or boat-shapedbreast pocket, a sewing detail that

can only be achieved by hand.Initially a cloth producer and later a

suit and sportswear maker, ErmenegildoZegna (pronounced zane-ya) has per-

fected the art of lighter-than-air suit mak-ing like no other designer label in history.

The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand notonly constructs all of its own suits in fac-tories around the world (prompting thecompany to introduce the slogan ‘Made in

Zegna’), but the family-owned company

suiti

ng

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TAILORED TO PERFECTION

100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETSMODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

Zegna suits in a rangeof colorful naturalfabrics that appear tobe bleached by the sun.

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has pioneered everything from thetechnically advanced fabrics usedto make its suits to the su mesura,or made-to-measure, concept oftenemployed to sell them.

WHAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDOZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-cially the made-to-measure

variety—can only be answered byslipping into one. Each piece is alabor of love tailored to your exactspecifications, in the fabric of yourchoice. You can select the numberof pockets, the direction of thepleats on your trousers and eventhe buttons and whether or notthey work. Moreover, it will bemade with such attention to detailthat your every physical anomaly—from sloping shoulders and athrown back to a hollow chest oran enlarged abdomen—is actuallymasked by the finished garment.(Buying one of these suits is a farbetter option than going under thedoctor’s knife.) You may neverneed to visit your tailor again.

“By the time a made-to-measuresuit is complete over 500 handswill have touched it and more than7,000 hand stitches will have beenused to create it,” explains imagedirector Anna Zegna.

Zegna workers have a hand inevery step, from shearing the sheepthrough the processing of the fiberinto yarn (and then fine fabrics), tothe cutting and sewing of everyjacket using a combination of mod-ern machinery and hand finishing.

“The perfect fit of a Zegna suitcomes from constructing it with100 pieces; the lining alone com-prises 12 separate components,”adds Zegna. After each piece isprecision cut, it passes through thehands of hundreds of tailors,whose singular purpose is to turn

one-dimensional pieces of clothinto a three-dimensional garmentworthy of the most discriminatingclientele. The waistband, fly andbelt loops on a pair of trousers canrequire more than 20 workers, andit takes the efforts of another 24tailors to construct the sleeves of ajacket; nearly 190 sewers areinvolved in creating the body of asingle jacket. Even the act ofsewing a simple buttonhole “cantake an eternity of careful cuttingand stitching,” says Zegna.

Once the fabric has been cut,corresponding pieces are carefully

bundled and passed down to thetailors and sewers to construct thegarment, which can take as long asfour days to wind its way throughthe 110-step production cycle.

Upon completion each suitundergoes an arduous pressingprocess performed by dozens ofworkers: six to press the slacks andanother 22 to press and hand-ironthe jacket before it receives itsfinal inspection. If the finished gar-ment meets the company’s loftystandards, it is literally given theZegna seal of approval as the sig-nature logo is sewn in place.

THE SECRET of a Zegna suitisn’t just the meticulous wayit’s put together, but theinnovative cloth used to makeit. The company’s founder andnamesake, Ermenegildo Zegna,began as a fabric maker in1910 with the creation of anatural wool weighing roughly350 grams per square meter,considered featherweight byearly 20th-century standards.Today, most Zegna fabrics weighin at a fraction of that andinclude such technical advancesas Trofeo, a worsted wool madeof prestige Australian superfinemerino wool with long fibers foradded strength and resiliency,and the latest 13milmil13, avicuna-like fabric made from

merino yarns measuring lessthan 13 microns. (To appreciatehow exceptional this is, oneneed only reflect on the factthat a human hair measuresroughly 50 to 60 microns.) Thedevelopment of such fine micronwools is the result of Zegna’s1963 initiative, the VellusAureum trophy, which motivatesand awards Australia and NewZealand’s sheep farmers whoproduce these ultra-fine wools.

Pioneering fabrics for springinclude Zero Weight, a blend ofsuperfine merino wool and silkwith a yarn count of 600—thefinest silk quality in the world.The company is also movingforward with last year’s CoolEffect, in which fine Australian

wool is finished to enable darkfabrics to reflect heat like light-colored ones. The result: a cloththat keeps the wearer 10degrees cooler than if he werewearing an untreated fabric.

“Fabric represents Zegna’sheritage and it’s the primaryfocus of our innovation,” saysAnna Zegna, noting that thebrand offers more than 700cloth options, including 200 newfabrics each season, as part ofits made-to-measure suit service.Over the course of thecompany’s 100-year history,“Zegna has invented over 20unique and innovative fabrics invarious colors, patterns andtextures, which have becomestaples of our collection.”

RODE_SUITING_Tailored to Perfection.qxp:RODE_ 1/27/12 1:46 PM Page 50

JEWELS OFTHE CROWN.. .

Whether you’re going forthe roses or the entire

Triple Crown, Orlanda hasthe perfect accessories for

your day at the track.Orlanda likes designing

with colorful precious andsemi-precious stones,each hand selected for

their brilliance. She craftsher jewelry using the finestof materials. Her jewelry

was chosen by thePlatinum Guild for the

“Red Carpet” at the GoldenGlobe Awards. Come view

Orlanda’s exciting newcollection exclusively at

Rodes For Her.

W W W. O R L A N D A O L S E N . C O M

D E S I G N E D BY


IF YOU’RE READING THIS MAGAZINE,you’re likely a customer of one ofthe finest specialty stores inAmerica, run by one of the nation’stop merchants. In today’s highlycompetitive retail environment,how do these independents com-pete with stores many times theirsize? Bottom line, it’s talent, taste,passion, promotion, businesssavvy, extraordinary service andlots of hard work! Here, we speakwith a few star merchants in theForum store group (a coalition ofAmerica’s top specialty apparelstores) to learn what drives them.

Theorizes John Malouf ofMalouf’s inLubbock,Texas: “We’vesurvived by featuringonly the best productin each category, andby teaching cus-tomers how great theycan look in the rightclothes.”

Adds John Braeger ofGarys in Newport Beach,California, “Our secret is buyerswho live in the community so theyreally know their customers: theirinterests, tastes and lifestyles…Our mix is always on targetbecause our merchants personallyknow who’s buying it.”

Braeger also points out thatindependents are more willing totake risks than stores that are pub-licly owned. “We buy smaller quan-tities with more selection, soyou’re less likely to see someone intown wearing the same thing. Our

goal is to please cus-tomers, not share-

holders…”On the mis-

conception that clothing costsmore in independent stores,Malouf is adamant. “We nevercharge more! Our prices are basedon typical industry margins, butwe give customers so much morethan great fashion.” Extras includecloset makeovers, expert alter-ations, wardrobe consulting,extended hours, e-mailed photos ofnew products as they arrive, rushdelivery and many other personal-ized services.

What’s more, independentmerchants often buy designerbrands differently than thebig stores, working personallywith the designers to developexclusives and fine-tune

assortments. ExplainsBob White of HubertWhite inMinneapolis, “Ouradvantage isknowing whowe’re buying forand combining

that personal knowl-

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THE SOUL OF A MERCHANTNO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTEDSPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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edge with trends in the market. It’sthis mix of client and productexpertise that separates us fromour larger competitors.”

Obviously top merchants travelfar and wide to find exclusiveproduct: many take eight to 10trips a year. Says Braeger, “I’d say Ispend half the year buying, theother half doing everything else.”Adds Malouf, “We travel regularlyto NYC, Dallas, Vegas and Italy,where we work directly with thedesigners. To me, designing beau-tiful clothes is analogous to anartist who paints or a musicianwho composes: it’s creating some-thing of beauty and lasting value.”

On a more pragmatic note,Wally Naymon from Kilgore Troutin Cleveland points out that byshopping at locally owned special-ty stores rather than nationalchains, 80 percent of the money

spent stays in the community. Butmore importantly, says Naymon,independent retailers are moreinterested in developing long-termrelationships than in making theimmediate sale (vs. publicly heldcompanies that are pres-sured to meet

monthly goals). “We’re in it for thelong haul,” says Naymon.

Howard Vogt of Rodes inLouisville says, “We carry only thebest labels, and then tweak assort-

ments to our customers’ lifestyles,our climate, regional events likeThe Kentucky Derby, etc. It’s avery personalized mix you can’tget in the big department stores.”

Craig Andrisen, co-owner ofAndrisen Morton in Denver,believes it’s all about relationships.He points out that “employees whoare respected, rewarded and wellcared for treat their customers thesame way.” Adds his business part-ner Dave Morton, “Our philosophyof business is simple: ‘Never say no,always say yes, then go figure itout.’ Exceptional service is alwaysthe ultimate goal.”

Sums up Bob Mitchell ofMitchells, Richards, Marsh’s andWilkes Bashford: “Our personal-ized approach to everything we do,from buying to marketing to serv-ice, allows us to give customersmore without costing them more.”

“STORES THATSURVIVE ARE

CLEARLY THE BESTOF THE BEST.”

Incotex and the other brands of the Slowear group - Montedoro, Zanone and Glanshirt - have made specialization their credo, to give life to garments with a modern, unique and timeless style.

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Fashion_Morocco [regular size].indd 1Fashion_Morocco [regular size].indd 1 1/17/12 3:30 PM1/17/12 3:30 PM

CASB

AHa walk in the walled city

The ancient Moroccan city of

Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan

route between the Sahara and Marrakesh,

and location for the fi lm Lawrence of

Arabia – provides the perfect canvas

for the bold, romantic and timeless

looks of spring 2012...

S E R G I O K U R H A J E C

C L A I R E B A Y L E Y

W E N D Y M C N E T T

P H O T O G R A P H Y

H A I R & M A K E U P

S T Y L I N G


citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink


THIS PAGE

Dress by Lela Rose.

OPPOSITE PAGE

Shirt by Isaia, jacket by Canali.


Sromantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes


Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket.

A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential fi nishing touch for a put-together casual look.

Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfi nished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and

styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fi ber” designed to beat the heat,a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis—even your favorite shorts!

TheJacket

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO A WELL-DRESSED MAN

The Jacket [regular size].indd 1 1/28/12 10:33 AM

JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE ANDELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUALEVERYDAY LOOK

FORGETTABLE

MEMORABLE!JACKET 101: THE EASIESTWAY TO ADD STYLE ANDELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUALEVERYDAY LOOK

The Jacket [regular size].indd 2The Jacket [regular size].indd 2 1/28/12 10:33 AM1/28/12 10:33 AM

SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON ORCASHMERE...A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCEAND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.

The Jacket [regular size].indd 3The Jacket [regular size].indd 3 1/17/12 3:34 PM1/17/12 3:34 PM

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OFTHINKING THAT JUSTBECAUSE IT'S WARM YOU DON’T NEEDA JACKET!

MEMORABLE!

FORGETTABLE

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Blazer

THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE

TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.

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JACKET NOT OPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAYBE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.

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UN JOUR EN NORMANDIEThe lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the

Norman invasion of Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape lay-ered with centuries of history. A drive through the lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous

Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally, you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and arti-facts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, notice the watchtower built by the soldiers ofLouis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house with restored Italian-style gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a familyestate for six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm,where you might be invited to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.

THE ART OF STYLEL

e Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a veryfashionable hotel. Between rushing out toglamorous appointments, modish guests

dine in the restaurants, gather at Le Bar Long forcocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend byClarins (which has the longest indoor pool inParis). And it’s the ideal hotel for art lovers.Paintings, drawings and photography exhibi-tions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere.There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Gardenin Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le RoyalMonceau is also home to the city’s first artconcierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treas-ures and organizes excursions, such as a visit tocontemporary art galleries in the Marais and St.Germain areas, or a private viewing of the HenriMatisse exhibition in Pompidou. In Paris, homeis where the art is.

world

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Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

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Qualityis Always

Fashionable

ALGO

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q&a

DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. Well I’m a Southernboy, so I have very traditional roots. But as a buyerin the fashion business, I try to spice it up with amore modern flair. Flat-front trousers, a trimmer fitin suits and jackets and a contemporary fit in shirtshave produced a fresh look in men’s fashion that I’mreally enjoying. I also use accessories to add someindividuality. An unexpected tie, belt or pair ofshoes can transform an outfit. I love being teasedbecause I never wear black shoes.

WHY NO BLACK SHOES? There are just so many shadesof brown and tan that really complement everything,from denim to the most serious dark suit, that towear black just looks uninteresting. There are alsosome great shades of gray, beige and even blueshoes showing up for the more daring customer.Although I do always wear black shoes with a tux.

WHAT’S IT LIKE WORKING AT RODES? Rodes is a reallyfascinating business. No two days are the same!Every week you meet a new face…it’s such a pleas-ure. Then we have people who have shopped with usfor years…they’re more than customers; they’re greatfriends, and part of the Rodes family.

I buy for the mens department, so I’m fortunateenough to be involved in the whole businessprocess. It starts in New York and Italy, where I viewdesigner collections at market, and ends with seeingthose collections displayed on the selling floor eachseason. I love both the business and creative quali-ties of this career.

The real passion for me comes from working withour fantastic staff and seeing our customers excitedabout their purchases. A return visit is the highestcompliment we can receive. That’s really what it’s allabout!

ANY FAVORITE TREND FOR SPRING? I love the unstruc-tured sportcoat or “soft coat”. It’s so versatile, youcan dress it up with trousers, or dress it down withjeans and a cool shirt or knit. Add in a pocket squareand enjoy the compliments! This is a look everywell-dressed guy should have.

The biggest trend in menswear is self expression.Personally I think menswear has never looked betteror been more enjoyable to wear. You can do whatyou want. No rules! And I’m glad to say our cus-tomers are embracing a whole new way of dressingand looking great…and wearing brown shoes!

‘‘NOBLACKSHOES’’

“THOUGH NOT MYTHING, BLACK SHOESWILL ALWAYS BE INSTYLE. HOWEVER,THERE’S BEEN ASHIFT…NOW MANYMEN BUY MOREBROWN THAN BLACK,WHILE IT USED TO BETHE REVERSE.”

—JIM PORTER MEN’S BUYER

A Q & A WITH JIM PORTER ABOUT HIS PERSONALSTYLE AND WHY HE’S KNOWN FOR WEARING...

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TREATMENTStar

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THE IDEA OF CAMPING—fresh air, friendsgathering around a campfire, slum-bering under the stars—appeals toalmost everyone. Sleeping on theground, dirt-speckled food andprimitive bathroom facilities do

not. Fortunately, enterprising campcreators are removing much of theuncomfortable stuff from a stay inthe great outdoors, preserving allthe good and adding even moreincentives. Glam camping, or

“glamping” as it’s now called, hasspread around the world.

The Clayoquot WildernessResort is located on the westcoast of Vancouver Island (reach-able by boat or sea plane). Here,

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Below: Sleepunder the starsin the SabiSands region ofSouth Africa.

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Blue Grass Knows Roads.Rodes Knows Clothes.

RODE_.indd 073 1/11/12 4:32 PM

guests who love the great out-doors can hike, fish, or climb to atreetop observation platform toview one of the oldest temperaterainforests in the world, then “fly”over the forest via a 285 meter-long flight line. For those whoprefer less strenuous exploits,Clayoquot offers wine tastings,spa tents and library tents with aninternet café. And the accommo-dations will surely attract the lux-ury-loving camper. Tents reminis-cent of those used in 19th-centurygreat safari camps have king bedswith down duvets, antiquedressers and tea tables, Persiancarpets, working bathrooms andheated floors. There are evenbathrobes and turndown service.

The Resort at Paws Up, locatedon 37,000 acres along theBlackfoot River near Missoula,Montana, offers a range of year-round activities: 120 miles of des-ignated hiking and riding trails,fly-fishing, whitewater rafting,cross-country skiing, and more.Recently, Paws Up has openedtheir most luxurious tentedaccommodations ever. Set on abluff overlooking the BlackfootRiver and Elk Creek, PinnacleCamp has one- and two-bedroomsuites with climate controls, jettedtubs in the ensuite bathrooms and

decks with river views. There’seven a personal “camping butler.”

If you want to go off by your-self, boutique adventure compa-ny Global Expeditions, Inc.offers private custom excursions.This company doesn’t have afixed location or standard pack-

age. Instead, an area is leasedexclusively for you and a luxurytented camp is created. Globalwill fly in a chef from anywherein the world, and cater to yourwhims with yoga masters,masseurs and estheticians, orauthorities on geology, ecologyand astronomy.

For stargazers, there are severalother options. Abercrombie & Kentwill arrange for you to explore themysterious Sahara Desert. After atour of the area (including Berbervillages and the Atlas Mountains)guests set off across the desert fora four-wheel drive to the camp, sit-uated in a remote area overlookingthe Erg Chebbi Dunes. There’s asunset camel ride through theSahara’s dazzling expanse, fol-lowed by a Moroccan dinner, tradi-tional entertainment and a spa-

cious Caidal tent.Then there’s Four Rivers

Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia,located in Tatai, next to the Thaiborder between Bangkok andPhnom Penh. There are 12 tentedvillas, each with a flat-screen TV,mini-bar and wi-fi. You can trek

into the jungle to explore one ofthe world’s largest rainforests,kayak down river, fish, or per-haps stop off for a natural hydromassage in the Tatai Waterfalls.At the end of the day, you canrelax on your private sun-loungerbalcony for a cocktail.

If you want to get away from (andabove) it all, Lion World Tours, spe-cializing in trips to southern andeastern Africa, can arrange for youto stay in a treehouse. In the SabiSands region of South Africa, anastonishing bedroom has beenbuilt around a majestic 500-year-old Leadwood tree. Guests aretaken to the camp at sunset to gazeout over the plains while enjoyingChampagne and local delicacies,before turning in on lavish linensin complete privacy… and, natural-ly, sleeping under the stars.

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Above, left:Abercrombie &Kent’s SaharaDesert Camp

Right: The FourRivers Floating

Eco-Lodge inCambodia

RODE_ESCAPES_Star Treatment.qxp:RODE_ 1/28/12 1:23 PM Page 74

SPRING 2012

We made Bills better by not changing a thing.

Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.

RODE_.indd 075 1/17/12 8:57 AM

row up,” my fashionable friendsneered over his ceviche, withone eyebrow raised. “You lookdisheveled, kind of a mess…”

“What are you talking about?” Idemanded, feeling very sartoriallyappropriate in trim khakis and a crispblue oxford shirt.

“Your outfit!” he dispatched withdisdain. “It’s dull and uncoordinated.It makes you look dated. And clue-less!” Requesting specifics about myfashion transgressions, I was toldthat, for one thing, my belt and shoeshad nothing in common.

“The belt’s at my waist, the shoesare on my feet: what do they need incommon?” I wondered aloud.

But after a quick self-assessment, Ihad to admit that my friend was right.Despite owning plenty of qualityclothes, some with designer labels, Inever seemed to look quite right.Clearly, my image was far less cooland far more boring than most of theguys in that trendy restaurant.

Time to consult the experts.Here’s what I learned: ■ When it comes to accessories, buythe best you can afford. When theaccessories look expensive, the out-fit looks expensive.■ The belt and shoes should be asclose as possible in color, textureand material.

■ Socks should match the trouser,rather than the shoe. (But a littlewhimsy on the feet is acceptable, asis going sans socks in summer.)■ More than anything else you wear,your tie expresses your personality.Make sure it’s current (three and ahalf inches, narrower if you’re a rockstar) and make sure it’s interesting.Even casual outfits, including jeans,go up a notch with the right neck-wear: try a knit or linen tie, or a sub-tle conversational. ■ Keep your eyewear current. Bringalong a friend when you select newglasses and make sure the framescomplement your face shape andfeatures. (Bold frames are of themoment, but only if they look goodon you!)■ A handkerchief in your sportcoatpocket adds a touch of elegance.

So there it is. Without threateningmy masculinity, the simple act ofcoordinating a suede belt with mysuede bucks has instilled newfoundconfidence. And now that I’m takinga few minutes each morning toaccessorize, my life is changing forthe better. My girlfriend seemshappy to see me. My colleagues areshowing respect. Who knew lifecould be so simple? My patronizingfriend even picked up the check atour most recent lunch outing.

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page PULL IT

TOGETHER!THE DIFFERENCE IS IN THE DETAILS.

BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

ZEGNA

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Louisville Finest | slmag.net

{Louisville’s Finest}

slmag.net Mar/Apr 2012 five dollars

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