Duis Sed Sapien

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Nunc Et Orci Morbi Posuere

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Rocklands Trad Topo 2014

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Trad in Rocklands

The Trad Climbing potential in and around Rocklands is immense! Our first trip in 2014, along with the few other parties that have

put up routes in the area, have barely even scratched the surface, and we can’t wait

to return next year to continue the development.

The rock is a very solid Quartzite, that eats

up gear and gives routes that are generally steep, powerful and well protected. There is potential for 1000’s of routes, at all levels

and styles, within 30minutes walk of the road. Should you feel like searching a little

further, the potential is almost endless!

Good luck finding you dream!

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Sectors

After a week or so of hiking and searching,

we focused our attention onto 3 main areas that seemed to

hold a large concentration of quality

hard routes. These “new” areas are not

really “new”, all being next to, or on the way

to, an existing bouldering area.

Prosecco

The longest walk in we did, a whopping 30min! If you are lucky enough to have a 4x4, you can cut the walk down to 10min! Follow the path towards the Champagne Sector (Livin’ Large), but head for the big obvious face on

the left at the top of the first hill.

Fields Of Joy – Crag

Just next to this classic bouldering area is an amazing cliff band. Access as for the bouldering sector Fields of Joy, but continue walking for a further 50m

(up the valley) to arrive at KaKa-Boom. For Path de la Giraffe and Beware the Beasties, follow the cliff band right for ~200m.

Twin Cracks

The area we called Twin Cracks is actually an existing boulder area called “Big and Roof”. You can see the obvious diagonal crack and the striking right arête from the path below. Pass through the boulders and follow the

cairns up the hill.

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C. Vestibulum quam.

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Sibamba Ngazibini

This route is one of the few Trad Routes already developed in Rocklands. It was put up by Joe Möhle a few years ago and is a real gem of a line. We didn’t develop anything new here, but there is certainly lots of potential both up

and down the valley.

Other Areas or Routes

Fields of Joy – Cody’s Arete

There is an amazing looking arête from Cody Roth, right behind The Barracuda Rail up at Fields of Joy. He told me it was a 7b+ boulder

problem to good gear, and then a run out but easier upper section. I didn’t have chance to try it, but it looks like a great line!

You could protect the start with either Friends or some crashpads, and

once the climbing gets easier, the gear looks to be really simple to place. This could be a great first Trad route for boulderers wishing to make the

transition…

Hope, Faith, and Charity

The obvious big faces next to The Pass cannot be missed. There are several multi-pitch

routes and scrambles that tackle the easier sections of the faces. Some rock is

apparently excellent, whist other parts are… less good. We didn’t have time to check

anything out personally, although Chris Kelk from the camping was raving about the

quality of a route he did last year.

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Fields of Joy

Fields of Joy is one of Rocklands most well known bouldering areas. It sits in a beautiful setting to the South of the busy DePakhuys

Campsite yet it is usually relatively quiet. The boulders lie on a large plateau underneath an impressive cliff band, and it is on this very

cliff we climbed our first routes – just 50m from the boulders!

The climbing is generally steep and pumpy, but with good regular gear throughout the

whole route.

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Fields of Joy - Left

Fields of Joy - Right Fields of Joy - Right

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Twin Cracks

Twin Cracks is named after the obvious zig-zag splitter crack visible from the main

path towards the waterfall. The crack itself is an awesome, burly experience, and was

first climbed a few years ago by Joe Möhle. It’s around 7a+, but don’t let that

fool you into thinking its easy!

Just next to the crack is a Striking arête named “Prepare For Landing”. This was by far the most dangerous new route we put up, and the name will make perfect sense

for anyone wanting to give it a go

Other Potential close by…

Bokmakierie

Prosecco Our entire Rocklands Trad Trip was based on one tip from a friend, about some awesome walls he

had seen up behind the Champagne sector. We wasted no time in hiking up there to check it

out, and discovered… well… not a lot really.

Fortunately on the way up we had passed an awesome looking wall, much bigger than the average Rocklands cliffs, and with an obvious

crack running up the centre.

After checking out this crack, we moved on to the big blank wall on the right. With a LONG run-

out through the crux section, “The Golden Haymaker” is one of my most memorable

Rocklands experiences! A B

Prosecco

Kachiing

Onto The Future

For More Information check out… www.OnceUponAClimb.co.uk

The Trad climbing in Roclands is awesome

and the potential for the future is enormous. We

spent a lot of time searching for the best lines, and were usually

focused on finding routes of high difficulty, but if

you set your sights a little lower, there are 1,000’s of new routes to do in and

around the existing bouldering areas.

This is all without even exploring too much!

Should you decide to walk a little further, or perhaps even drive

around the other side, the rock just goes on and on

and on.

The future for Trad climbing in Rocklands is

very bright indeed, and it won’t be too long before

we are back