River City July/August 2014

NEWSUMMER MENU!Reservations available

through Open Table

Catering for up to200 people

COME CHECK OUT OUR NEW & IMPROVED MENU!societyva.com | 1421 E Cary St | 648-5100

2 River Ci ty Magaz ine

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Stay Cool KayakingResources for Kayaking in Richmond

The Diamond Experience Baseball, Extreme Food, and Craft Beer

Gliding Around Town River City Segs Tours

Torero Tapas Make a Night of Delicious Dining

Woofing it Down Camden’s Dogtown Market

Tastebudz Restaurant News with Joey and Steve

Summer HangoutsA History of Summer Fun in RVA

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BACKSTAGE WITHTODD HERRINGTON

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CONTENTSJuly/August 2014

PHOTO COURTESY OF ASHLY COVINGTON/COVINGTON IMAGERY

THIS PHOTO AND COVER SHOT COURTESY OF ROBERT THOMAS

MASTERFUL MIXOLOGISTS

RichmondNavigator.com 3Ju ly/August 2014

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STAY COOL KAYAKINGby Don J. Kappel

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James River Advisory CouncilJRAC-VA.org | 804-748-1567

Chesterfield County Parks and RecreationGreg Velzy: [email protected] | 804-748-1124

Henrico County Recreation and ParksCo.henrico.va.us/rec | 804-501-7275

Hopewell MarinaHopewellVa.gov/recreation-and-parks/marina | 804-541-6417

Riverside OutfittersRiversideOutfitters.net | 804-560-0068

RVA PaddlesportsRVAPaddleSports.com | 804-898-0697

HEN YOU LIVE in a metropoli-tan area where the hub is known as “River City,” you are literally miss-

ing the boat if you don’t get out on the local wa-terways. Metro Richmond offers great sites for boating, including flatwater and whitewater solo outings, group trips, camping trips, fishing and more. Increasingly, individuals and families are finding that kayaking is a great way to stay cool.

Your kayaking options include the James and Appo-mattox rivers and Chesterfield County’s Lake Chesdin and Swift Creek Lake at Pocahontas State Park, to name a few. You can enjoy tranquility or a rush of excitement, depending on your kayaking preferences.

The James River Advisory Council unites the communities that share the James River. The coun-cil’s website provides a calendar of activities con-ducted throughout the year and lists many kayaking events for children and adults as well as information about history, art, camps, volunteer opportunities and more along the historic James River.

This summer, between July 15 and Sept. 10, various scheduled kayaking programs will offer outdoor fun to paddlers ages 7 and older, depending on the specific event. There is no maximum age limit. Whitewater Kayak Play Days will take place at the Pony Pasture rapids on Wednesday, Aug. 13 and again on Wednesday, Sept. 10, for those 13 and older.

LESSONS. Here in Central Virginia, the climate is conducive to kayaking at least three seasons of the year. In the winter, the Midlothian YMCA is used by the Chesterfield Parks and Recreation Department for kayak training.

As with any activity on the water, kayaking requires preparation and the correct equipment. Most of all, it requires the right attitude when it comes to staying safe. “Safety is just paramount” in the water, says Chesterfield County’s adven-ture programmer, Greg Velzy, who has been canoeing and kayaking for more than 35 years and has been a whitewater kayaking instructor for nearly 25 years. One of the things he teaches his students is “how to read the river,” he says. He knows the rocks, the currents, the fast water and the eddies, and imparts that knowledge to his kayaking students.

The minimum age for Chesterfield County’s flatwater classes is 11, and 13 for whitewater classes.

Richmond resident Shannon Carr, a French teacher at Chesterfield County’s L.C. Bird High School, was enjoying the white-water kayaking at Pony Pasture on the James River in May with a group of Velzy’s other kayakers. She has been kayaking with Ches-terfield County’s organized groups for nearly three years. “They do a really good job of

going through every possible scenario you can encounter as a new boater,” she says.

Henrico County’s Department of Recre-ation and Parks also offers kayaking lessons.

RENTALS. If you don’t have a convenient place to store a kayak or just prefer not to purchase one of your own, you can rent one at one of the area’s outfitters. Riverside Outfit-ters Outpost at Brown’s Island rents single and tandem sit-on-top kayaks from 11 a.m. until to 6 p.m., seven days a week, during the summer months. Or visit Riverside Outfitters at 6836 Old Westham Rd. in Richmond. They also offer guided flatwater or Class 1 and 2 whitewater trips.

ON THE OTHER RIVER…The Hopewell Marina has recently upgraded its facilities on the Appomattox River. It offers a new kayak/canoe launch ramp that makes put-in and take-out easy. There is no fee to launch or recover these small boats. This area provides flatwater paddling.

Central Virginia’s summers can be hot! On flatwater or whitewater, on the James, Lake Chesdin, Swift Creek Lake or the Appomat-tox, it’s easy to stay cool and to have fun.

Let’s meet on the water!

Kayaking Resources


THE DIAMOND EXPERIENCE: BASEBALL, EXTREME FOOD

& CRAFT BEERby Annie Tobey

PEANUTS! Popcorn! Get your pea-nuts here!” “Beer! Ice cold beer!”

You glance at the vendors, but your atten-tion is diverted by the crack of the bat. You turn anxiously towards the field, knowing that the Richmond Flying Squirrels are two runs behind, with two runners on base and two outs. You jump to your feet as the ball sails towards the left field fence.

After cheering for the three-run homer, your thoughts turn back to food. After all, a baseball game is about more than just great sports.

“We view the ballpark experience as a whole,” says Todd “Parney” Parnell, Vice Presi-dent and COO of the Richmond Flying Squir-

rels. “Whether it’s something that entertains you, whether it’s something that is a memory for you – like getting a picture with Nutzy and your grandkids or your kids at the gate – and certain-ly food and beverage falls into that category.”

As Parney and his staff look for ways to give fans the best ballpark experience, they look for “talking points” – things that will stimu-late people to return to The Diamond and tell others about their experience, like the new fried peanut butter and jelly sandwich.

Besides their ongoing roster of barbecue, Italian sausage, and flatbread pizza, Flying Squirrels concession stands present different “extreme foods” each new season. This year, it’s Diamond Dog and Diamond Burger – a hot

dog and a burger, each topped with barbecue, coleslaw and cheese. They’re also bringing back the traditional American footlong hot dog.

The Flying Squirrels staff also notices local trends – like Richmond’s growing attention to craft beer. “It shows our connectivity to the community,” says Parney. “We pay attention to what people want and we implement it.”

The Squirrels initially added craft beer to their lineup in 2012, joining the standard domestic brands. “It’s grown exponentially,” says Ben Rothrock, Executive Director of

Food & Beverage / Merchandising. “It got to the point where we couldn’t hold it any longer. There were long lines the whole game, so we decided to expand the area … and it’s been very successful for us.”

They’ve added more beers and more taps at The Thirsty Acorn, a dedicated craft beer concession stand. They now offer six craft beers and one craft cider at two separate stands.

Probably the proudest addition – and definitely the one with the best batting average at The Diamond – is Chin Music, “an amber lager as crisp as opening season night and as smooth as a walk-off swing.” The beer was brewed specifically for the Flying Squirrels by local Center of the Universe Brewing (COTU).

Rothrock is pleased that the styles “cover all bases,” so to speak, that they pair with all of the ballpark foods, and that, for craft beverages, even the price is good!

In addition to Chin Music, the Squirrels offer Hardywood Singel Belgian Abbey-Style Blonde Ale; Legend Brown; Strangeways Albino Monkey white ale; COTU Ray Ray’s Pale Ale; Ardent Craft Ales Virginia Common, a pre-Prohibition style ale-lager hybrid; and Bold Rock Virginia Apple Hard Cider, a gluten-free option.

A Diamond Dog and Chin Music in hand, you return to your seat. As you savor the experience, you think that you could almost be satisfied even if the Flying Squirrels didn’t win. Almost!


[RICHMONDNAVIGATOR.COM]

Visit us and winDining Gift Certifi catesfor some of Richmond’s

Best Restaurants


EFORE LONG, it seems to be intuitive. Lean forward and pick up speed gently, lean back and slow down. Certainly Segway technology helps, but undoubtedly the dedicated

training course and patient instructors deserve much of the credit.The Sunday afternoon group and I began our experience at

River City Segs with an instructional f ilm, followed by one-on-one training and practice time. Practice consists of winding through the turns, bumps, and gentle slopes on their indoor training course. It ’s the only Segway-specif ic training course in Virginia. After all, the business wants you to have fun, for sure, but they also want you to “Always practice safe Segs” !

When all of us felt comfortable on our Segway, we followed the guide out of River City Segs’ Shockoe Bottom location, down Grace Street, and on to our f irst tour stop.

This given Sunday, the eight-mile historical tour took us through Shockoe Bottom to the f loodwall and Brown’s Island, up past Broad Street, through the Capitol grounds, and down to Lumpkin’s Slave Jail. I think of myself as fairly knowledgeable in

Richmond history, but our guide surprised me with lots of tidbits and tales I’d never heard. Besides enjoying the ride, my mind was engaged and active.

River City Segs offers many entertaining and educational tour options: public art ; Hollywood Cemetery; Church Hill ; women in local history; black history; grisly, ghostly tales ; custom-made tours ; photo lessons ; and more. They also offer the River City Challenge, giving teams tasks to complete while gliding from point to point.

Ours was a diverse group, from a 15-year-old to wizened adults, yet we all were entertained during the two-hour excursion. Wheth-er listening to historical tales or zipping along the sidewalks of the city, each rider was comfortable, safe, and entertained. What’s more, we all quickly felt competent on our 21st century wheels.

I enjoy R ichmond and am a lways happy to learn more about the R iver Cit y. Now I know a zippy new way to enjoy my con-t inuing educat ion !

1805 E. Grace St. | 804-343-6105 | RiverCitySegs.com

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GLIDING AROUND TOWN ON A RIVER CITY SEGS TOUR

by Annie Tobey


B A C K S T A G E W I T H

TODDHERRINGTON

by Davy Jones + photos by Ashly Covington / Covington Imagery

It’s summer. It’s hot. You’ve made it through another hellish Monday. You deserve a beer. Fortunately, you live in Richmond, which is home to a spot that’s

been voted America’s best beer bar: Mekong Restaurant. And your good fortune is just getting started because Mekong has its own house band – Mekong Xpress & The Get Fresh Horns – and every Monday night, they turn the restaurant’s front room into the coolest place in RVA.

Just before the eight-piece group hit the stage for one of their exuberant performances, I talked with founder and bassist Todd Herrington about the one-of-a-kind scene he’s helped shape.

You seem to have a unique relationship with this place. How did that get started?

Todd Herrington: Probably in 2007, I came here to meet someone, and she was running late, so I went up to the bar and ordered a beer. I’ve never been a big alcohol guy, but I’d just gotten turned on to Chimay, a great Trappist beer, and I ordered that from An [Bui, Mekong’s owner], who was the bartender at the time. He was like, “Ah, you like good beer.”

We started talking, and he was turning me on to all these beers, and I would come here after gigs and he’d educate me – not to get drunk or anything, because it’s artisanal when you get to that level, and he’s really passionate about it. I became great friends with An and watched as [Mekong’s bar scene] grew up.

How did the idea for the band come up?

TH: An’s been a big supporter of the RVA music scene, and we had these guys who would come here on Monday nights who are in bands, and [An asked], “What are you guys doing?” We [said], “There’s nothing really happening on Mondays, so we come up here,” and he [asked], “Well, why don’t you start playing?”

It ’s been awesome. It ’s the coolest hang ever. A lot of these guys I’ve never played with before, so it ’s been a dif-ferent thing for me – the vibe and the style of music that’s developed. It ’s this Southern soul, singer-songwriter-y thing, but ballsy. Every Monday is dif ferent, but the bar is always packed.


Seeing you play with DJ Williams Projekt at Cafe Diem was my introduction to Richmond music. What did that string of shows mean to you?

TH: We were all really in touch – the musicians and the crowd. The energy was great. I made lifelong friends from those gigs. Something like that is so beneficial to a musician, because you have this platform that you’re guaranteed. You know you’re going to be here on this day, and you can, like this [Mekong gig], let go.

It’s a great way for everybody to develop – the band, individual musicians – and for the crowd to develop with you, and be like, “This is what this band is about.” A weekly gig like that is great for any sort of art form.

Are there plans for Mekong Xpress to record?

TH: We’re going to do a 45 and see where it goes from there. We write a lot, everybody in the band writes, which is great. It’s just been such a nice, organic development. No pressure.

Todd Herrington (brown jacket) and his band at the Mekong Bar, with An Bui (third from right)


OOKING FOR THE PERFECT SPOT, for a romantic night out, or a hot club with great music and refreshing beverages, or, perhaps, even a unique restaurant where you can take the whole

family? You really need to look no further than the 1400 block of East Cary Street. And now this Shockoe Slip hotspot is poised to get even hotter, thanks to the efforts and the passions of two local restaurateurs, David Bess and Matt Busch.

The two men together already own Society American Bistro (1421 E. Cary St.), which has established itself as both a casual, sophisticated dining establishment and a really cool club. Bess also owns Cha Cha’s Cantina (1419 E. Cary St.), offering delicious Tex-Mex dining. Busch also DJs at Society and on 106.1 FM on Saturday nights.

Now, the two have joined forces again to open Torero and the Ibiza Lounge (1409 E. Cary St.). Those who know the area may recognize that address as being the former home of Europa, which was a staple on the city’s downtown dining scene back in the day.

Well, Bess and Busch have done a hip new remodel of the place. “We are ready to tackle another aspect of the dining scene,” says David Bess in explaining the reason for their new venture. “We want to offer a little some-thing for everyone in this block.”

It looks like with Torero (upstairs) and Ibiza (downstairs), they’ll have all the bases covered.

“The concept of Torero,” says the business’s spokesperson, Lauren Reyes, “is simply authentic Spanish tapas and family-style dining.” In addition, she says, the restaurant will be offering catering both on and off site. On-site catering includes a semi-private dining area upstairs as well as in Ibiza, downstairs. Head chef is Augusto “Auggie” Lopez.

“Our menu,” Reyes says, “will consist of roughly 40 tapas, ranging from sugared almonds, truffle deviled eggs, veal sliders, lamb chops, stuffed mushrooms, clams, oysters, soft shell crab, and serrano ham as well as paella

LTORERO TAPAS


Neighbor Night is on Monday, where guests who live from Church Hill to Belvidere and over to Old Manchester can get discounted tapas.

Tuesdays are Date Nights, when 30 bucks per couple will get you a three-course dinner and a show.

On Wednesday, it’s Paella Night, offering discounted family-style paella for parties of two or more.

Come Thursday, you can kick back, as it’s Mambo/Sangria night, which could make for a lively combination. That includes $30 tableside sangria with either a band or DJ performing mambo and other styles of Spanish music.

And, finally, to wrap up the week (or to begin a new one, depending on whose calendar you’re using), on Sunday you can enjoy limitless tapas. That’s right. I said “limitless.” Parties of four or more get two hours to try an unlimited selection of these tasty small plates for just $25 per person, and that includes a beverage from the bar. Smaller groups get the same deal for one hour for $20.

[traditional Spanish rice dish with either meat or seafood]. Entrees include New York strip, stuffed tomato with meat and seared tuna, and a whole bream baked in sea salt.”

Lest you think that the emphasis is only on exceptional food in a fam-ily-friendly, casual, informal atmosphere, she adds that Ibiza will be filled with local mixologists extraordinaire, including David Shervin, Christine Ficor, Sammie Leary, and Megan O’Rear.

“Ibiza offers an appealing atmosphere that makes it the perfect gath-ering spot for any type of social gathering,” Reyes says, “as well as a large, semi-private dining area for your parties.”

If your group is looking for one of the best happy hours in town, head on downstairs to Ibiza. “Our bar has a special happy hour menu consisting of a variety of tapas that will be offered as complimentary with the purchase of a beverage between 5 and 7 p.m. every day, including weekends,” she says.

And if you’re seeking some tunes with your tapas, there’ll also be a DJ downstairs on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights.

“Our slogan,” says Reyes, “is ‘Make a night of it.’ In other words, have dinner at Torero, then head downstairs to Ibiza afterwards.”

There truly is something for everyone in the 1400 block of East Cary. From the college crowd, to young professionals, even the empty nesters, who are, in ever-increasing numbers, reestablishing those nests in down-town Richmond’s cool new apartments and condos.

And, now, with Torero, the whole family can enjoy delicious dining at reasonable prices. David Bess and Matt Busch say, “Make a night of it.”

All I can say is, “Lead the way.”

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Woofing It DownChef ’s journey leads him to Camden’s Dogtown Market by Jody Rathgeb

A few quirks indicate that Andy Howell is a chef who refuses to take himself or his work too seriously:

• His business card for Camden’s Dog-town Market in Manchester describes him as “head stock boy/chef.”

• The market/restaurant is named after his dog.

• When talking about restaurant trends, he says of nose-to-tail cooking, which uses all parts of an animal, “I’ve always been a nose-to-tail guy … I learned how to be a good garbage chef.”

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OWELL’S REFRESHINGLY CASUAL, humorous approach to his life’s work is the key to his longevity in a tough business that can turn others into egocentric dictators

or vagabond misfits. He has surfed the waves of the Richmond restaurant scene for 23 years, taking both wipeouts and picture-perfect rides with a shrug and a constant return to the waters. “Things are cyclical; things come back,” he says, a comment that can refer to either his business or himself.

Howell migrated into the restaurant business rather than answering a call. A self-described Army brat, he was born in Japan and followed his father’s career through Washington, D.C., Chicago, Newport News and Germany, ending up in Virginia and attending school at Virginia Commonwealth Uni-versity. “I never graduated, and I never left,” he says. Instead, he turned away from his major in creative writing toward the jobs that kept him afloat since his first in a hamburger joint on the pier in Newport News.

Using the equity from a house in Church Hill that he renovated and sold for a profit, plus some family help, he opened Zeus Gallery Café in 1991 and ran it until it was bought in 1994. He moved on to Petersburg, where he bought and ran John Henry’s Dining Room for several months until a tornado went through the area. After that, he changed the restau-rant’s concept and renamed it Portabella, catering to foodie sensibilities in a depressed and slowly recovering area.

Why? “My mom needed a place to eat,” he says, explaining that his mother was then living in Petersburg, with few restaurant options available.

In 2000, he left because of climbing rent and helped open a restaurant at Swift Creek Mill Theatre, Colonial Heights, then made a deal for Avenue 805 in Richmond’s Fan district, where he spent seven years.

Café Rustica in Richmond was Howell’s next spot, which became successful despite the struggles of partnership. “I learned that I don’t play

well with others,” he says, summing up time spent in business deals and sous chef issues.

In 2011, he discovered his current space at 201 W. Seventh St. in Manchester and opened Ejay Rin with Bill Foster, following his partner’s desire for an Asian noodle shop.

“Talk about a polarizing food,” he comments. Ejay Rin garnered criticisms from everyone who believed in highly personal styles of ramen. Howell bought out Foster and took a look around.

“I knew the neighborhood needed something basic and convenient, not super-sophisticated,” he says. In 2011 the place became Camden’s Dogtown Market (Dogtown, an old designation for that part of Manches-ter, fit well with the dog’s name), selling necessities for the local residents of rehabbed buildings, plus offering reasonably priced lunches and din-ners. Howell says that in addition to his basics, he can play with the rest of the menu at Camden’s and have fun. “It’s a space where I can morph with the neighborhood.”

He admits that eventually he will become restless again, chalking that up to his peripatetic boyhood. He and his girlfriend, Karen Newton, have a rural retreat in Cumberland County, where he’s growing grapes and eventually may open a weekend barbecue stand.

“Wherever you go, people gotta eat,” he sums up.

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt ¼-pound butter (microwave is fine). Grind walnuts and salt in food processor until mealy, but not paste. Add butter to walnuts and press into bottom of springform pan, making sure to pack around the seam between the bottom and the ring. Put in oven for 8 minutes (long enough to toast the crust) and set aside to cool.

2. In a double boiler on medium heat, place the chocolate, remainder of cold butter (cut up into several pieces to help it melt faster) and coffee. With a wire whip, stir occasionally, until the mixture comes to a consistent, even viscosity (about 10 minutes). Take off heat and slowly whip in egg yolks. The mixture should thicken a bit. Pour the chocolate over a rubber spatula to broadcast over your crust (pouring directly onto the nuts will sometimes break your crust up), and then use the spatula to scrape the rest into the springform pan. Cover and put in fridge for at least 6 hours.

3. Use a hot knife to rim the springform before releasing the ring. Cut into 16 wedges and garnish with fresh berries or tart cranberry sauce.

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From Chef Andy Howell of Camden’s Dogtown Market, here’s a rich dessert that will please chocolate fans.

Chocolate “Pâté” Pie with Walnut Crust• 1 quart dark chocolate chips

(60% cacao) • 1 pound unsalted butter• 1 quart strong coffee• 5 egg yolks beaten

• 1½ cups walnut pieces• 1 teaspoon kosher salt• Tight nine-inch springform pan• Double boiler

PHOTO BY JOEY WHARTON

PHOTO BY JOEY WHARTON


JOEY: I attended the soft opening of a fantastic new Fan-area restaurant, BRUX’L Cafe (1731 W. Main St., BRUXLCa-fe.com). The place is owned and operated by the folks who brought you the recently closed Belle Vie in Midlothian. Much of the menu and the staff have been brought over from there to BRUX’L. Everyone was very knowledgeable and attentive. They truly provide a great restaurant experience. The décor is quite quaint, offering a cozy, homey feel. I sat at the bar and ordered their Truffle Burger. It’s a beautiful burger made of ground filet mignon, topped with truffle mushroom mix, salad, tomato, red onion, and truffle mayo. And it’s served on a pret-zel bun. You can check out their full menu online.

STEVE: In preparation for our “Raising the Bar” feature in the current issue of River City magazine, I had a chance to visit with the folks from both Heritage Restaurant (1627 W. Main St.) and The Roosevelt (623 N. 25th St.). These are two outstanding restaurants, so I was excited to learn (from Karri Peifer at Richmond.com) that Joe Sparatta, the chef/owner at Heritage is teaming up with Lee Gregory, the chef/owner at The Roosevelt, to open up a restaurant. The new place, to be named Southbound, will be located in the Stony Point Shop-ping Center on Huguenot Road. Karri reports that the new place will be family friendly, with the emphasis on “family.” Seems both guys are raising their kids in the Bon Air area, and both wanted more family dining in that part of town. The restaurant will even have a kid’s menu. But don’t worry, it’ll also have a patio and a 20-seat bar. We’ll keep an eye on that one. Maybe we can get Karri to help us get an invite to their soft opening.

JOEY: Well, we’re off to find more great restaurants, and, perhaps, another fantastic doughnut or two. Don’t forget to join Steve and me each Thursday at noon on The Flave (102.9 FM). And you can catch past shows online at RichmondNavigator.com.

STEVE: You know, Joey and I are TasteBudz from a dif-ferent era. His and mine don’t always mesh, that’s cool. However, one thing I’ve noticed is that we both have a very powerful sweet tooth.

JOEY: That’s true. Take Sugar Shack, for example. When this fantastic pastry shop first opened at 1001 N. Lombardy, I waited in line to try one of their doughnuts. I was astound-ed. It was worth the wait. Well, here’s something else that is going to be worth waiting for. Owner Ian Kelly is on the move again. He recently bought the old Lighthouse Diner in Manchester (1228 Hull St.). That property has been, for the most part, vacant since 1969. In addition to using the space to house his catering and mobile operations, he plans to reopen the diner. So if you need that little extra morning fix, besides coffee and a doughnut, you’ll also be able to get baked goods, biscuits, waffles, and pancakes.

STEVE: I broke my dieting rules twice in the past few days – all in the name of research, of course. For starters, I paid my first visit to Sugar Shack. It’s not just worth the wait, it’s also worth the weight. But I also discovered another bakery that might not get as much publicity as Sugar Shack, one that I think is quite fantastic in its own right. It’s WPA (2707 E. Marshall in Church Hill, WPABakery.com). Co-owner David Rohrer says the initials stand for “Well-made Pastry Alliance,” but it’s also a play on Franklin Roosevelt’s Work Progress Administration. Now, get the tie-in to FDR: Rohrer’s partner in the bakery is Kendra Feather, who also owns The Roosevelt restaurant in Church Hill. Some of Rohrer’s delicacies are available at The Roosevelt as well as at Feather’s other River City culinary ventures, Ipanema Café and Garnett’s Café.

I’d heartily recommend the caneles. I could have eaten a dozen. WPA offers a vast array of buns, cakes, and pies. Oh yeah, and coffee, too.

With Joey & StevetASTEBUDZtastebudz

- R IC H MON D F O ODI E S -

Got Restaurant News? Drop Us A [email protected]

RichmondNavigator.com


MASTERFULMIXOLOGISTS

by Steve Cook | photos by Robert Thomas

erry Thomas, Ada Coleman, and Victor Bergeron – if you recognize the names and know what it is that these folks have in common, then you should be writing this feature rather than reading it.

The three are among the most influential bartenders in modern history, at least according to the folks at Liquor.com.

Back in the mid-to-late 1800s, Thomas plied his trade at bars across the nation. He also wrote the first cocktail book ever published, The Bon Vivant Companion.

And lest you think female bartenders are of fairly recent origin, meet Ada Coleman, who was known as “Coley” at the American Bar in London’s Savoy Hotel, where she worked from the end of the 19th century into the early 20th century.

Victor Bergeron, of more recent vintage, is a name with which you may be more familiar, especially if you know that his nickname was “Trader Vic.” Bergeron claims to have invented the Mai Tai, although his con-temporary and rival, Ernst Gantt, disputed that claim. Gantt was also better known by his nickname, “Don the Beachcomber.” Their Mai Tai controversy would make for a great tale over drinks. Care to join me?

Of course, the history of these three goes back less than 200 years. But while bartending may not be the world’s oldest profession, we do know that as long ago as the days of Julius Caesar there were mer-chants traveling the famous Roman roadways. Along those trade routes, inns sprang up, offering not only a bed and breakfast, but alcoholic beverages as well.

When the Romans began to move into the British Isles and create their network of roadways there, Ro-man taverns began to spring up. By the 14th century, the tavern owners would put green bushes on poles to signal passersby that beer was sold there. This was in imitation of the Roman custom of displaying vines to advertise wine sales. These bushes were the forerunners of the famous British pub signs.

In the early 1800s, Americans began to enjoy increased spirit production. Originally, spirits could only be served to overnight guests at inns. But in 1832, Congress passed the Tavern Law, allowing saloons to serve guests who were not spending the night. America entered what has been called The Golden Age of Cocktails. The gold glistened for nearly 80 years – until Prohibition.

Obviously, times have changed. Prohibition has come and gone. So have Jerry Thomas, Ada Coleman, and Victor Bergeron. Today, we seem to be enjoying a new golden age. In ever-increasing numbers, establishments offering a dazzling array of sophisticated cocktails continue to appear on our own dynamic dining scene. We have our own talented men and women who continue to raise the bar with regard to this ancient profession.

Operating on the theory that we all enjoy getting to know our local bartender, we now introduce to you a few of River City’s most masterful mixologists.

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Heritage1627 W. Main St. | 804-353-4060 | HeritageRVA.comMattias Hagglund – Bartender

Mattias Hagglund is not just the bartender at Heritage – he also owns the place, along with his sister and her husband, Emilia and Joe Sparatta.

Mattias modestly describes Heritage as a “neighborhood restaurant putting out the best food and drinks we can at reasonable prices. We hope to leave a lasting impression that will keep folks coming back for more.” This dynamic trio has definitely realized that hope already.

RC: What’s the most important quality a good mixologist should possess?MH: The ability to multitask and tend a bar efficiently and hospitably. I don’t care if your drink has 17 different ingredients and features the shavings of fossilized unicorn horns. Hospitality, speed and efficiency make a good bar-tender.

RC: Can you think of any strange drink requests you’ve received?MH: Straight vodka martini, little-to-no vermouth, but low alcohol please. It’s the type of order where you kind of pause and think, “Is this person messing with me?”

RC: Who pours your favorite cocktail?MH: My favorite, lately, has been Thomas Leggett’s [at The Roosevelt] North-bound Turnaround. It has anejo rum, P.X. [Pedro Ximenez] sherry, Amaro Zucca, whiskey, and barrel-aged bitters… Really delicious.

RC: What’s the best tip you ever got?MH: You’re only as good as what you’ve tasted, so never stop exploring the world around you. Taste and smell everything you can – in bars, grocery stores, restau-rants, everywhere. It’s the only way to keep growing.

The Roosevelt623 N. 25th St. | 804-658-1935 | RooseveltRVA.comThomas Leggett – Bar Manager

The accolades keep on a’coming for this Church Hill dining spot, including Esquire magazine’s having just included The Roosevelt in their list of the top 24 bars in the U.S. Thomas Leggett, bar manager, says, “Our food is an untra-ditional celebration of the food of the South, served alongside an all-Virginia wine list, a hearty roster of regional beers, and a selection of craft cocktails.”

RC: What do you enjoy most about bartending?TL: Meeting and interacting with people. Developing a trade and refining a skill set.

RC: Who pours your favorite cocktail?TL: Mattias and Tim at Heritage knock cocktails out of the park.

RC: When you’re not behind the bar, any hobbies?TL: I enjoy fishing and trying to make my old truck run.

RC: What’s the best tip you’ve ever received?TL: “Don’t just play Slayer,” from Kendra Feather, co-owner of The Roosevelt.

RC: That one left me scratching my head. Maybe it’s an age thing.

THE DRINK The Sunspear Swizzle

THE DRINK The Secret South

• Gin• Pineapple

• Sage• Vinegar

• Sparkling wine

“It’s our newest cocktail for the summer,” Thomas tells me.


Hondo’s4120 Cox Rd. | 804-968-4323 | HondosPrime.comHolly Cohn – Bartender

Holly Cohn has been one of our favorite West End bartenders since we first met her about five years ago at Hondo’s. In fact, Holly has been at Hondo’s for nearly 15 years. She describes this popular Innsbrook-area steakhouse as offering “personalized service in a cozy and inviting environment.”

RC: What’s the most important quality in a bartender?HC: Consistency and multi-tasking.

RC: What do you like best about your job?HC: The people on the other side of the bar; every shift is different and never boring.

RC: Who mixes your favorite cocktail?HC: I make a great Old Fashioned. Come by Hondo’s and try one!

RC: What’s the best tip you’ve ever received?HC: Stay true to yourself and do what makes you happy.

Rappahannock Restaurant 320 E. Grace St. | 804-545-0565 | rroysters.com/restaurantsJason Lough – Beverage Manager

“I started as a shucker with Rappahannock before they even opened,” says Jason Lough, beverage manager at this downtown Richmond hot new farm-to-table restaurant and raw bar. “They pretty much let me slide in at the bar.”

It appears the slide was a good fit for Jason, who had been bartending for about four years previously. He describes Rappahannock as having “a laid-back clientele who seek an energetic vibe.”

RC: What is the most important quality you’d look for in a bartender?JL: An outgoing personality, who is willing to share himself and connect on a personal level.

RC: Who poured the best cocktail you’ve ever had?JL: My grandmother, Anna Cash Clark Andrews. She poured a [mean] shot of Canadian mist.

RC: When you’re not behind the bar, what are your hobbies or interests?JL: I have a million passions, but I think painting and cooking are at the top.

RC: What’s the best tip you ever got?JL: I was in the Navy on a nuclear-powered submarine standing lookout in the bridge. I had just finished one of my angry rants about how everything sucks, when my officer of the deck told me, “If you shoot for the moon and miss you’ll still be sailing with the stars.” That really stuck with me. I guess because I was at a real low in my life. I also got a $1,000 tip once, but that didn’t stay with me as long.

THE DRINK Hendricks Martini

THE DRINK Texas Beach

• Hendricks Gin• Dry Vermouth

• Cucumber

Hondo’s Signature drink

VIEW THE DRINKS FOR HERITAGE AND RAPPAHANNOCK ON RICHMONDNAVIGATOR.COM!

SUMMER hangouts

by Jack Trammell

BYRD PARK PUMP HOUSE. PERMISSION FROM HISTORIC RICHMOND

ichmonders in the past, like those in the present, knew how to have summer fun. Whether sunbathing on the James along the Fall Line, eating freshly churned ice cream at High’s, or waltzing in one of the many outdoor pavilions, happy city dwell-

ers have been inspired by warm weather to gather in the streets and parks, to relax and recreate.At Forest Hill Park, beneath the canopies of older trees, are flat circular areas that look

like they were designed for tents or arcades. Almost forgotten now is that Richmond had an amusement park in days gone by. The old Rhodes property – where the terminus for the Forest Hill Trolley was built – housed a carousel, game gallery, fun house and roller coaster. It also had a swimming area and dance hall. For more than 40 years, Richmonders enjoyed the Forest Hill Amusement Park as a popular summer distraction, which shut down during the economic crisis of the Great Depression. It deteriorated quickly when not used and was eventually turned into a more typical park after the structures were torn down. It continues in that role for present-day Richmonders.

R ichmonders in the past, like those in the present, knew how to have summer fun. Whether sunbathing on the James along the Fall Line, eating freshly churned ice cream at High’s, or waltzing in one of the many outdoor pavilions, happy city dwell-

ers have been inspired by warm weather to gather in the streets and parks, to relax and recreate.At Forest Hill Park, beneath the canopies of older trees, are flat circular areas that look

like they were designed for tents or arcades. Almost forgotten now is that Richmond had an amusement park in days gone by. The old Rhodes property – where the terminus for the Forest Hill Trolley was built – housed a carousel, game gallery, fun house and roller coaster. It also had a swimming area and dance hall. For more than 40 years, Richmonders enjoyed the Forest Hill Amusement Park as a popular summer distraction, which shut down during the economic crisis of the Great Depression. It deteriorated quickly when not used and was eventually turned into a more typical park after the structures were torn down. It continues in that role for present-day Richmonders.


Byrd Park today draws crowds to the three lakes prominently featured as you enter from the north. What many might not know is that the park actually began as a water works. The New Reservoir Park (today known as Byrd Park) became a busy summertime attraction in the late 19th and early 20th centuries but began life in 1873 planning for a new water works to serve a westward-expanding, booming, post-Civil War city. Beginning at the river, where a pump house was built along the old James River and Kanawha Canal, the water was pumped up the hill to a large reservoir, where it was stored until being pumped out into the city for use. As this water network was created, locals began to use the grassy areas and the additional lakes that were soon built for summertime recreation. It was shortly thereafter renamed Byrd Park.

Richmonders are always drawn to the river. Although traditional park features – trails, monuments, an amphitheater and pedal boats – became part of the landscape at Byrd, the pump house was a unique structure that is now a part of the National Park System network. Completed in 1884, the “New Pump House” was built in the Gothic Revival Style. In addition to massive lower-level chambers where the mechanical water works operated, it included a giant open-air dance hall and detailed inte-riors worthy of a medieval European church.

The designer, Col. Wilfred Emory Cutshaw, wanted the building to be practical but also to be a grand public space that could house balls, public meetings, and other social events. It is one of the few

buildings in the American architectural history of the period to incor-porate such thinking. Today, visitors see more of an old church from the outside than a mechanical outbuilding, but people of the time would have come to dance, socialize and marvel at the technology being utilized to serve a modern city.

The city is currently seeking to refurbish and preserve its unique legacy, along with other Byrd Park jewels of yesteryear, like the his-toric roundhouse and Poplar Vale Cemetery, which are also within the park grounds.

Still in use, parks such as these are a testimony to the long history of summer fun in RVA.

ROLLER COASTER AT FOREST HILL PARK. PERMISSION FROM RICHMOND IN SIGHT AND THE HARRIS STILSON COLLECTION


River City July/August 2014

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Transcript of River City July/August 2014