Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150904* Elvis ... · 9/4/2015 · parts have...

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150904* Elvis Presley Meyers Manx 1:25 Scale AMT Model Kit #847 Review

The Meyers Manx dune buggy is a small recreation vehicle, designed initially for desert racing by Californian engineer, artist, boat builder and surfer Bruce F. Meyers. It was produced by his company, B. F. Meyers & Co. from 1964 to 1971. It was produced as a “Kit Car” applied to the shortened chassis of Volkswagen Beetles. The car line dominated dune racing in its time, breaking records immediately, and was eventually also released in street-oriented models, until the company's demise due to tax problems after Meyers's departure. A Meyers Manx dune buggy is driven by Elvis himself in the memorable 1960's movie, "Live a Little, Love a Little." It’s a yellow street Manx with all the custom features you’d expect on a retro dune buggy.

For the Modeler: This review covers the Elvis Presley version of the Meyers Manx kit. This is a recent re-release (Re-Pop) from Round2 under the AMT line and was released in 2013. This kit has no Skill Level but I rate it a Skill Level 2 for moderate builders. This kit has seen multiple box arts and versions with different accessories. This kit will actually be able to be built as a 4in1: Original Manx, Street, Dune Buggy and Baja. You get over 100 parts molded in Yellow, Chrome Clear and Clear Red with Vinyl tires and a Metal axle. There is a full motor with multiple options. Wiring will help the look also. The interior is simplistic but full. The body is multiple part, as it is a two-tone that eases painting. There are both vinyl tires for street use and a set of Styrene rear Buggy tires. You get Cragar rims or Full Moon rims as choices. There is a full decal sheet with multiple options and custom items. The instructions are straightforward and assembly is laid out fully. The kit includes a bonus mini movie poster to display with your built model. Overall dimensions are: Length: 4¾”, Width: 2¾”, Height: 1½”.


BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure.

Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a “Factory Stock” or a “Replica” car your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no “Wrong way” to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly.

PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Silver Screen Machines version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer’s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and different brands of “Rattle can” spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion.


Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer’s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.

PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is very high and color register is good. There is a small carrier around each decal. These decals float easily and will set quickly. Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. I personally have found Microscale Industries products to be the most compatible with all the different manufacturers of decals.

NOTE: In the instructions you MUST READ each step. The motor assembly includes all four versions. The parts have notations for each version: DB=Dune Buggy, MX-S=Street, MX=Original Manx/Rally. The final body assembly is done in three different panels on the instruction sheet. Follow your particular build choice carefully. I will be doing a mix of all of the different versions to create a unique look for this build.

PIC 4 The motor is completely chrome aside from the fuel pump and distributor. Paint the distributor Steel with a Black cap. The fuel pump is Aluminum. You can paint the motor or leave it all chrome as I did. Use a wash of 50/50 Flat Black and Water to rinse over the motor to bring out details.


PIC 5 PIC 6 Assemble the motor halves. Assemble both head halves and add the valve covers. Install those on each side of the motor. Add the oil pan. Add the starter. Add the oil filler, distributor and fuel pump to the block. Assemble the fan shroud and add the coil and generator to it. The belt is added to the motor front. Add the carbs to each side with the covers.

PIC 7 PIC 8 Choose between the muffler and Stinger exhaust. Paint all of the pipes Steel and the muffler Aluminum. Add the rear pipes around the motor. Install both front pipes and line up all three pipe ends in the front. Add the collector and the muffler you chose. Add the bottom plate.

PIC 9 PIC 10 Choose either Cragar or Moon rims. Choose either the street (right) or sand (left) style rear tires. The sand tires are plastic and will need to be assembled and painted if used.


PIC 11 The tires are different for the front and rear. There are skinny tires on the front, the wide tires are rear. Also the front tires have the brake drums with inner ring where the rears have just a rear rim. NOTE: The instructions have two small metal pins for the front rims to connect the drums. I did not get those in my kit. To give the tires a more used street worn look press and roll the tread on a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper. PIC 12 For the front tires install a rim front, the rear ring and the brake drum. On the rears install a rim front and rim rear.


PIC 13 The chassis and floor assembly is next. Paint the floor Flat Black. The chassis backbone is assembled and is Body Color (Yellow). Assemble the front suspension, steering box and tie rod and paint Flat Black. The shocks are Red and attached to the suspension on both the front unit and rear parts. The pedals are Flat Black.

PIC 14 Attach the backbone to the floor. Add the finished front suspension. Add the pedals, shifter and brake lever. Install the motor. Install the rear suspension and insert the metal axle through the suspension and transmission.

PIC 15 Install the front tires with Superglue on the spindle and attached to the brake drum.


PIC 16 Insert the metal axle into the rear tires and push in place.

PIC 17 (upper) PIC 18 The rolling chassis is completed and ready to set aside for later installation.


PIC 19 PIC 20 The body shell is two parts, the front cover and body. You need to install the gas tank into the body also. This will be the main parts for all the different versions.

PIC 21 PIC 22 Assemble and install the gas tank. As the dash and windshield mount to the front cover this needs to be glued in place on the car. Drill out the hole in the underside for the gas cap in the front cover.

PIC 23 PIC 24 Here are the OPTIONS for the different builds. There is an interior rear seat set. A tonneau cover for the rear, a full hard roof, a Surry roof to use with the rear roll bar and windshield and a front roll bar to make the build into a Go-Cart. I will be using the following options: I will install the rear seat, which will allow me to use both the tonneau cover and hard top roof also so I get three looks from the same build.


PIC 25 PIC 26 NOTE - THE IMPORTANCE OF TEST-FITTING YOUR PARTS! Note the gap in the chassis and body. The front suspension is too high on the frame to let the body sit flat. I had to remove the gas tank bottom and use a Dremel Tool to carefully grind away some of the body material to make it all sit flush. While this will be hidden in the final assembly process if not done NOW you will not be able to build this properly.

PIC 27 PIC 28 Here are the parts I will be using in my build. The body shell will be two tone Yellow with Black, the roof Yellow also. The tonneau cover will be Flat Black. Wet sand the body with 800 grit paper and Primer the whole body and roof.

PIC 29 The dash is Semi-Gloss Black with White and Black instruments. Install the column in place also. Just paint and scribe or download some generic gauges from the web and print them out for use.


PIC 30 The seats are Semi-Gloss Black with Yellow inserts. PIC 31 The body and roof are primed and need to be wet sanded with 800 grit paper and cleaned prior to the Black being applied to the bottom half of the car.


PIC 32 PIC 33 Paint the underside of the body shell Black. Mask off the underside and prep the top side for the Yellow.

PIC 34 The roof and body shell top side are painted Yellow, the car is unmasked and set to cure.

PIC 35 Choose the decals you wish to use. Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it “Floats”

loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply


Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat.

PIC 36 Install the body on to the chassis. Add the steering wheel, dash and seats in place. If you used the rear seats install them too.


PIC 37 PIC 38 OPTIONAL IDEA: License Plates: I decided to do custom license plates and personalize this kit a little. You can go to http://www.acme.com/licensemaker/ and create any custom plate you want for any State. Also, you can search photos online for designer license plates. You can save the photo and resize it to fit a model. Just print it on photo paper and you have a plate of your own. To print your plate for 1/25 or 1/24 scale kit, open your photo program and crop the plate so you just have the plate only. Re-size the image size to make the Width .5 inches and make sure CONSTRAIN PROPORTIONS is on. Use 300 DPI for a crisp print. Save that and Print it on White Photo paper printing on High Quality Print Setting. You now have a proper sized plate to glue on your car.

PIC 39 PIC 40 The rear assembly is completed. Attach the tail lights to the bezels and the bezels to the body. Add the plate holder and your plate to the body.

PIC 41 PIC 42 Install the front glass in the frame. OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It's a kind of magic; it will self-level and make the part clearer! After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and “Wick” it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up.


PIC 43 PIC 44 Finish the front end. Install the headlights into the bezels and attach those to the body. The gas cap is installed. Add the windshield and wipers in place. If you use the front bumper install it. If you use the mirrors install either one or both. Add the tag holder and tag if you use it.

PIC 45 PIC 46 The tonneau cover can be placed over the rear seats for a different look. The rear window is installed in the roof and the roof can be set on the car for another variation. Neither item needs to be glued on as they give options. PIC 47 Once the build is finished to your satisfaction you will have left over parts. Depending on your construction you may have different ones than this.


999 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: This kit is a nice looking build, once finished. But getting it there can be a challenge. The kit was produced in a time when precision manufacturing was not as essential as it is now in the modeling community. The overall fit and finish is not perfect. You must test-fit and work with parts to fit them. There are not many positive location points for attachment on the parts. The whole motor is chromed in this build, I left it as I liked it but it would be much nicer and more Contest ready if you strip the chrome and paint the parts. It will be more realistic and the chrome does hide detail. The optional parts allow you to build numerous versions, and are a nice treat to have. Making a custom build is quite easy straight from the box. The body looks to be correct and the finished car is scaled to look good. The ride height is OK. While not an overly detailed kit it leaves lots of room for creativity. I did enjoy building it and think it will look good on the shelf. On a scale of 1 to 10 I do rate this a low 8 for the pure fact that the ease of building is poor, but the options did help it.

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150904* Elvis ... · 9/4/2015 · parts have...

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