Replacing Windows: Step-By-Step Guide
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Replacing Windows: Step-‐By-‐Step Guide
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If you're living in an older house, there will come a @me when you have to replace the windows.
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The wood in an older house begins to warp, affec@ng not only how the windows look and operate but also the insula@on that they provide.
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This ar@cle will walk you through all of the steps necessary to replace those windows correctly the first @me (without having to hire a
contractor).
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For this guide, I am assuming that your window frames are solid; if this
is the case, you simply need to insert replacement units.
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To replace window frames, please check back for further instruc@ons.
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There are three types of replacement windows: insert
replacements, sash kits and full-‐frame units.
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We're going to be working with an insert replacement.
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Step 1: Measure
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Before going any further into the process, make sure that you
measure out the windows for your replacements.
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To start, measure the inside width of the old window frame (jamb to
jamb).
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You should do this in three places: the top, the middle and the boOom.
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If the measurements are different, write down whichever is the smallest out of the three.
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AQer that, measure the height of the frame.
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Start from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb.
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Again, do this in three places -‐ leQ, center and right -‐ and record the
smallest measurement.
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Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals.
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If there is a difference of more than 1/4 of an inch, you're going to need to make adjustments to the frame.
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Use an angle-‐measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill.
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Record this as well.
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Step 2: Removing the Sash and Jamb Liners
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Removing the old sash from the window frame requires either prying it off or unscrewing t he
interior wooden stops.
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Start with the boOom sash; aQer the boOom is removed, take out the par@ng beads so that the
upper sash is free.
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Press on the jamb liners and pull the top sash forward to free it.
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Next, take off the jamb liners.
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Use a flat bar to pry them free and remove any remaining
wooden stops from the frame.
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Step 3: Ge_ng Your Frame Prepared
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There's going to be a mess leQ of old paint and loose wood.
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Scrape that off and then patch any holes or cracks with wood
puOy.
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Sand the jambs smooth so that you have a clean finish.
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Finish it up with some primer and paint.
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Check if there are original sash weights in place -‐ if so, remove them and insulate behind the
frame.
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You need to unscrew the access panel on each side to pull the
weights out.
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Step 4: Insula@on
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Polyurethan foam is great for windows.
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It's much more effec@ve at blocking air than fiberglass foam.
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It's important, however, to only use low-‐pressure that expands
very minimally.
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Make sure that the foam is produced solely for windows and
doors.
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Drill holes into the jamb, one at each end and one in the middle,
on all four sides.
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Now for the fun part...
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shoot the foam into each hole un@l it begins to ooze out.
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Don't forget to fill in the sash-‐weight pockets that we emp@ed.
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Let the foam sit for at least 6 hours so that it can harden; then, break off the excess foam so that
you have a flush surface.
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Step 5: Caulking and Installing the Window
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We're about to install the window.
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First, however, we want to caulk the exposed inner face.
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Apply it to the blind stops on the top and sides of the frame, as well as beads along the window
sill.
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Finally, it's @me to install the window.
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You want to be working from the inside of the room, placing the boOom onto the sill and @pping it forward into the opening.
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Press the window forward, making sure it is @ght against the exterior casings or blind stops.
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Step 6: Screw It In and Inser@ng Shims
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Have someone hold the window in place.
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Using a 2-‐inch screw, loosely aOach the upper side jamb and
the framing.
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Do not @ghten it too much -‐ it should be just enough to hold
the frame in place.
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Grab some shims and insert accordingly under the sill and
behind the side jambs.
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You want to make sure that the window is in the center of the
space.
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Measuring diagonally, these measurements should be the
same.
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Take a u@lity knife and trim the excess.
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Step 7: More Caulking, More Priming, More Pain@ng
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Now, operate from the outside of the window.
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Measure gaps in the frame and casing.
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If any gaps are less than 1/4 of an inch, fill them with the
elastomeric caulk.
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Use a rubber backer rod for anything larger than 1/4 of an
inch.
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Next, head back inside and fill gaps with the expanding foam.
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Install your window stops, prime and paint.
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Step 8: Sit Back and Enjoy
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You worked hard.
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Take some @me to relax.
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Stare out the window.