CORECORE

WEB BASED CORE APPLICATIONSPECIFIC INSTALLATION INFORMATION AND METHODS

Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, WIXSYS, and the author are not liable and do not assume any liability in case of misinterpretation of directions,

misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error. Pictures and Diagrams are meant to represent typical situations and are for guidance. Actual product dimensions, representations and specifications

are to be supplied by the manufacturer.

Removing Old WindowsPart II - Frame Out

Screw

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Removing Steel WindowsReplacement Windows were designed to fit into oldwood double hung frames with both sash removed.However, due to consistencies in wall thickness ofmost buildings, other window types (casement, sliders, and other metal windows) can be removedand the opening prepared to receive replacement windows designed to be installed against an exteriorstop. Replacement products can have a full frontalflanger, setback nailing flange or be smooth as box-frame windows have.

It is important to measure accurately and orderexact sizes to maximize fit and minimize trim work.As you read the following guidelines you can betterjudge how to specify windows for a particular instal-lation and how to more accurately estimate labor.

Removing A Steel WindowNote: These drawings are typical installations.Though not to exact scale, they are representativeof most situations and are meant as a guide only.

Steel windows were usually installed with screwsinto the frame around the opening under the sash of operating units or outside the glass of fixed units.Usually covered with putty, most can be located with a little work.

Remove the screws you can and drill out those youcant. Once the screws are removed, the whole window unit can be removed and the opening prepared with capping and/or new blindstop of aluminum/vinyl or wood as described in aluminumwindow removal.

Under frequent circumstances, however, old steelwindows are too firmly embedded to be removed asdescribed above. The first step, then, is to removethe window operating assemblies by unscrewing orcutting with recipro-saw or hacksaw.Once operating assemblies are removed, carefullyremove or tape-protect all glass in the fixed panels.

Using the recipro-saw or hacksaw, cut all remainingmuntins and bottom metal frame leaving sides andtop intact to serve as outside blindstops.

There are a couple of ways to create "the blindstop"to mount the new window against. First is to leavethe old frame intact. Using coil stock, shape a cap to fit over the old steel frame remaining in the opening.

The U shaped cap (app. 1x1x1) will cover theframe and hide the old exterior putty or concreteembedment. Once caulked, the exterior will be neat,finished, and weathertight.

Cover or caulk all cracks and holes. Install new window against outside blindstop formed byremaining frame pieces covered by the U cap.

Recipro Saw

Duct Tape

Remaining Steel Frame

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Fixed PanelOperatingPanels

Screw

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Removing Aluminum Windows

Aluminum windows are usually secured by fastenersthrough the exterior flange into the plywood sheath-ing or wall studs. Also fasteners can be mountedthrough the jamb (in the sash channel) into the wooden frame around the opening.

Most aluminum window frames can be pried up andout of the opening without disturbing the siding orinterior finish. Begin by removing the operating sashfrom the window. If there is a fixed panel, removeglass carefully. In windows with fixed panels, theglass may need to be broken to remove it. Use nylon filament tape in a criss-cross pattern to mini-mize shattering.

Remove all visible screws in the window jambs. Ifthis does not free the window, use a flat putty knifebetween the window frame and the internal jambtrim to locate the flange screws.

Using a cold chisel or putty knife, attempt to shearall the mounting screws between the flange and theside of the house.

Note: The drawings are typical conditions. Thoughnot to exact scale, they are representative of most situations and are meant as a guide only.

Once all fasteners are sheared or weakened, carefullypry up the bottom frame using a block under the prybar to protect the inside sill. If fasteners cant besheared or weakened, careful prying can remove thewindow. Protect the opening as much as possible tominimize damage to siding or interior finish.

Once the bottom frame is arched sufficiently, use arecipro-saw or hacksaw and cut the frame piece.After it is cut, gentle use of the pry bar can removeboth sides and top of frame without disturbing thesiding or interior jamb, head, or sill trim.

OldAluminumWindow

ReplacementWindow

Frame Out -Destructive Tear OutMetal WindowsMetal windows are often buried behind siding thatwas installed during new construction or a previousremodel of the home. J Channel was used to finishthe newer siding, and cutting back everything toexpose the windows fin can be an expensiveapproach. If the decision is for a Frame-Out, then adestructive Frame-Out may be the only alternative.This method is best when there is a large overhang orother architectural element on the home to limit theamount of direct rainfall on the new window.

The operable sash and any fixed panels of glass areremoved down to the old frame - sill, header andjambs. A pry bar is used to get under the sill, andusing a wood block to avoid damage to the interiorfinish, the sill of the old window is pried up, the

header pried down, and the jambs in from the side.This collapses the window into the opening so it canbe removed. Prying the old frame, in essence, tearsthe mounting fin of the old window out of the spacebetween the framing and the siding - destroying thecontinuity of the old flashing.

It is imperative that some continuity be restoredusing liquid flashing, or adhesive-backed flashing torepair the opening.

A drip cap and some functional sill pan should be created. Cover the 4 sides with cellular pvc of MDFboard, which is sealed to the old opening.

The bottom line is to be sure that water is diverted,drained and dried to effect a weather resistant instal-lation.

Pry-Out Old FrameUsing Wood Blockto Prevent Trim

Damage

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Depending on the condition of the opening and thetype of exterior trim or siding, it may be necessary to cap the opening to make a smooth transition ofouter and inner surfaces in preparation for the newwindow. At least cover or caulk all cracks and holes.

Wood furring can be used to fill gaps in between siding and interior walls and to provide structuralsupport in the opening.

Most openings will now be ready for the installationof exterior "blindstops". Aluminum or vinyl angles (1x 3) or wood (1 x 1 or 1 x 2) can be used for stopsand should be installed to the outside allowing fordepth of replacement window (3 1/4). Install thesestops on head and both jambs only. Sloped sillsrequire the use of the provided sill angle. Flat sills should be caulked where the window meets the sill so as not to block drainage.

Install new window against outside stop, caulk andtrim interior and cap exterior as necessary. It maybe wise to cap the furring or outside stop beforeinstallation to minimize after-installation trim work.

Pre-extruded shapes or available Snap-Trim canmake the job easier. Mount the angle of the snaptrim with pop rivet to the top of window. Afterplaced in opening, mount angle to other sides.

Plumb and square window using snap-trim angle andpop rivet to window and screw trim angles to interiorwindow opening, cap exterior and caulk. Once alltrim angles are secure Snap Over trim and caulk. The use of Snap Trim eliminates the need of stops and shims.

CuttingBackto thefin

Removethe wholewindow

Removing the Old FrameDepending on how the old window is finished on the outside,you can choose to remove the old frame completely versusleaving in the old frame. You start the same by removing thesash (operating and fixed) and cutting out the meeting stile.

Once the meeting stile is removed, used the reciprocal saw tocut the sill and header part of the frame slightly to facilitatebending and collapsing it using a crow bar to pry it up.

Use a wood block under the crowbar to minimize potentialdamage to the sill and header. Pry directly up and the framewill come out from between the siding and the sheathing. Itwont take much effort to do so and that will tear the nailingfin slots away from the nails allowing the frame to collapse.

Do it on the bottom, the sides and the header and you shouldbe able to remove it completely.

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Taking the OldFrame Out

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Step 2:Cut-back the sidingwith circular saw orOscillating Tool sufficient width(approximately 1/2to 2) to expose theold windows mounting fin.

Take care not to cuttoo deep.

Step 4:Removed the nailscarefully from the oldwindows fin.

Nailing Fin Frame-Out- Removal Sequence 1

Step 3:Removed the sidingcarefully nails carefullyfrom and make adjust-ments as necessary toexpose the completefin.

Try to disrupt oldflashing as little aspossible.

Remove all the sidingpieces from around thewindow as cleanly aspossible- trying to preserve any flashing.

The cleaner the cutaway, the easierand better the finishedreplacement will be.

Step 1:A very common windowinstallation of an oldfinned window has themounting fin covered byJ Channels and dripcap and has the siding butting up to the J Channel.

Re-flash the exposed mounting surface using adhesive-backed flashing or liquid flashing. Cut a new drip cap to tuck under the siding after the new window is installed.

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Step 2:Remove Exterior Casing.

Step 4:Create Sill Flashing using adhesive-backedflashing, and/or liquid applied flashing to cover the old sill andextend up the jambsabout 6 inches.

Cut new casing anddrip cap to use overnew fin mountedwindow wheninstalled.

Nailing Fin Frame-Out- Removal Sequence 2

Step 3:Removed the nailscarefully from the oldwindows fin.

Try to disrupt oldflashing as little aspossible.

Step 1:Many original windowswith a fin have beentrimmed over withapplied exterior woodtrim or casing to coverthe mounting fin andabut the siding.

Carefully break anysealed joints betweenthe casing, the sidingand the window.

If there is no casing and the siding butts to window frame usinga J Channel, cut-backthe siding with circularsaw or Fein Tool toexpose the old windowsfin, and proceed thesame from there.

At the finish, use J Channel or extended leg C Channel to cap the sidings cut ends and form a joint with the new casing trim.

Removed trim will expose old window and its mounting fin.

Removing Old Windows from CBS Construction

Replacement applications in Coastal Regions often are forwindows installed in Concrete Block with Stucco finish(CBS).

For Stucco applications, there are unique conditions forstucco over wood frame and stucco over concrete blockconstruction. Some conditions of stucco finish on woodframe are covered elsewhere such as Jump Frame andapplications where the stucco is cut back removing a window with brick mould and the new product is installedwith a wood block installed over the mounting fin of thenew window and the resulting assembly is installed in theopening and sealed to the remaining stucco finish.

The conditions and instructions covered here will apply primarily to building constructions considered CBS andwood frame with similar stucco finish.

Stucco covers the edge of the Old WindowBecause the original construction had the stucco finishapplied after the window or door was installed, the stuccooften will partially cover the flange of the old window. Thiscreates problems that must be dealt with: Measurement,Removal of the Old Window, and Finish of the NewWindow.

1. Measure- It is difficult to measure for the new windowbecause so much of the old window can be hidden behindthe exterior stucco finish and the interior wallboard and/orsill finish. The new window cannot be too large or too

small, for obvious reasons. The success of the job can bemade or broken with proper measure or improper measure-ment.

2. Removal of Old Window- When removing the old win-dow, it is problematic because the stucco needs to be keptout of the way of the removal, but damaging the stucco canrequire costly and difficult stucco repair, which almostnever can be matched to the old finish making for anunsightly exterior finish.

The interior wallboard and sill, if damaged, can also requiredifficult and costly repair and/or replacement of compo-nents.

How to Remove the Old WindowRemove any of the operating panels or sash.The exterior stucco finish must be cut back to theedge of the flange. This is possible to do with a Feinoscillating tool and a masonry blade. Carefully deter-mine where the flange edge is on all 4 sides. Using aframing square or other straight edge, cut the stuccoto the flange tips on the top, bottom and sides. Youshould be able to get a clean cut with no damage.

Next, using the Fein oscillating tool and a sealantblade, free the window on the inside from anycaulked or sealed joints on the sides, top or bottom.

Remove any of the operating panels or sash.

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Tape any remaining glass panes, and using the Feinoscillating tool, remove the glazing beads, glazingcompound, and glazing adhesive and carefullyremove the stationary glass pane(s).

If there is a mullion or other separating piece, if possible use the Fein oscillating tool to cut it freefrom the windowframe.

Remove the inside sill (if any).

Remove all mountingscrews from the window frame.

If possible, cut theside frame piecesthrough to release the frame from theopening.

If unable to cut theframe, you can collapse the windowframe, carefully as shown. The oldwindow should be out with minimumdamage to the opening.

How to Prepare the New OpeningClean any debrisfrom the opening,including old shims,wood mounting materials and mounting screws.

Measure the Heightto determine if the old sill is at its proper height, or if the old windowfloated above.

The sill needs to be established at theproper dimension,and it needs to be flat and level the full width of theunderlying framing.

Thinset, or similar,can be mixed andpoured into the spaceto create the propersill width, level andcreate the properheight dimension.

If possible, a properlysized wood framingmember or MDS pre-formed pvc boardcan be inserted to create the flat, level sill in its prop-er position. This will eliminate practice of removingflange to get new window into opening.

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1/4 MAX. SHIM

1X P.T. WOOD BUCK

1/2

T

1/2

1/2

1/2

1/2

Step 1.Remove all Frame and Glass

Step 2.Remove Anchoring Screwsand Cut PerimeterSeal

Step 3.Pry out old frameand shims.Minimize damageto stucco

The opportunity to add more glass area in any homeis an opportunity to let in more light and ventilationand improve the view. Adding more glass area can bedone by removing a single window and adding a bayor bow window, or even a wider combination window.

Considerations when Removing a Window and making the Opening Larger

1. There must be room for the new window ordoor.Beyond measuring for the width and height of thenew window or door, it is important to consider theneed for a header above the new window, and to besure electrical and heat wires, pipes and ducts arenot in the way or are properly moved or repositionedto accommodate the new unit.

2. The ceiling beams above must be supportedduring the construction. Proper installation of all windows and doors includesa header and jack studs on either side. This assem-bly transfers the weight from the structure above,sort of around the window, and transfers the weightto the floor below.

When you make the opening larger, the existingheader must be removed, and a new header insertedbetween the studsin the outer wall,and new jackstuds inserted to transfer theweight supportedby the longerheader, again to the floor.

While you areremoving the oldheader andinstalling the newone, the beams inthe ceiling aboveneed to be sup-ported. You can do this with a 2x4minimum, span-ning a greaterwidth than thenew window ordoor, held upsnug by 2x4s asshown. Do this as close to theoutside wall as is practical.

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Enlarging an Opening

2. The ceiling beams above must be supportedduring the construction. Proper installation of all windows and doors includes a header and jack studs on either side. This assembly transfers the weight from the structure above, sort of around the window, and transfers the weight to the floor below.

When you make the opening larger, the existingheader must be removed, and a new header insertedbetween the studs in the outer wall, and new jackstuds inserted to transfer the weight supported bythe longer header, again to the floor.

While you are removing the old header and installingthe new one, the beams in the ceiling above need tobe supported. You can do this with a 2x4 minimum,spanning a greater width than the new window ordoor, held up snug by 2x4s as shown. Do this asclose to the outside wall as is practical.

3. Carefully re-establish the water managementsystem in thewall.The new windowor door will beexposed to moreoutside weather,and if it is adoor, then the sill will besubject to water intrusionif it is not properly crafted.

Study theinstallation procedures for Bay, Bowand Gardenwindows andentry and patiodoors for thesteps needed to create a proper watermanagement system for the newly added unit. Onceyou are adding a new header and support framing,the techniques for new construction will apply.

The good news is that when making the opening bigger, finishing the exterior siding and trim and theinterior wallboard and molding is simpler becausethe pieces you might remove are not destroyed andshould be able to be trimmed to size and reused.

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