Recollections of Poland 2007 - Rozylowicz · Recollections of Poland ... 2007 April 15 th – April...

Recollections of Poland ... 2007 April 15th – April 28th and May 9th – May 13th

Part 3 ... of 8

© 2007 Ed Rozylowicz, All Rights Reserved

Friday, April 20th ... Today is another “free day” ... we have no urgent plans during the day. Again ... time to recover our energies. Tonight we are invited to the Zembala-Bembenek (Iwona, Jozek, Alina) house for a light supper ... conversation ... and making final and firm plans to travel to Warsaw tomorrow.

We get up late ... at 9:30 ... day is warm but very windy. Have the usual light breakfast of cereal, juice and coffee. After last evening’s meal at the Stasikowski house, our hunger is slight.

And speaking of hunger ... we’ve been highlighting the variety of Polish foods we experienced. Yet, to the uninitiated, Polish fare at times seems bizarre, if not downright unappealing. For your education ... here is a brief primer on Polish foods and beer:

Polish food and drink ... up in Warsaw, if current trends persist, sushi bars will soon outnumber Polish restaurants. Kraków though remains true to its roots, and your choice of traditional restaurants knows no limit. Let’s take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen:

Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil, but it works like a miracle any day, especially an arctic one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer.

Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Poland’s two signature soups; zurek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dumplings thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.

Bigos: You’ll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunter’s stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.

Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionally filled with meat, cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionally find maverick fillings such as chocolate, plums, or strawberries.

Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than a good dessert. Krakow’s cafés are famous for their sernik (cheesecake) and lody (ice cream), though if you want to try something more traditional then order makowiec - poppy seed cake.

Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale baguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it with mushrooms and ketchup from a squeeze bottle. Best eaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it: various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.

Bagels: According to history books the bagel was invented by a Viennese Jew in 1683, as a commemorative gesture in honor of King Sobieksi III - the Polish monarch credited with saving Western Europe from the Turkish hordes. Krakow, with its strong Jewish community, grew to become something of a bagel haven. Today look for the women crouched on street corners vending fresh bagels and pretzels. Vodka: There is no better way to end a good meal than with a few shots of vodka. Some might be accustomed to drinking vodka in cocktail form. In Poland this is a crime on a par with sleeping with your sister. Drink it neat and chilled (the glass as well). If you do insist on tampering with the

drink then look for vodkas that come with slices of lemon, orange or strawberries inside the bottle. Particularly popular with foreigners is Zubrowka. Each bottle contains a blade of bison grass, and it’s socially acceptable to drink it with a dash of apple juice. My favorite! Polish Beer ... Poland may not be one of the first countries to spring to mind when thinking of beer, but it does have much in this sphere to warrant attention. It combines elements of the Czech, German and British traditions and even has a unique style of its own, the intriguing and obscure grodziskie beer.

The practice of brewing stretches well back into the Middle Ages, but it was in the 19th century when large-scale brewing began. At this time, as elsewhere in continental Europe, ideas, techniques and machines were borrowed from the industrial breweries which were beginning to develop in Britain. The first beers produced in these new Polish breweries also originated in Britain; porter. As in many countries around the Baltic, this style gained popularity through exports from Britain in the late 19th century. The economic crisis between the wars slowed the growth of the industry. On the eve of the German invasion in 1939 there were 137 breweries in operation. German occupation and war damage sent it into serious decline. It was more than a decade after the end of the occupation that output was able to equal pre-war levels. Production increased from 3.33 million hectoliters in 1950 to 14.2 million hl in 1992. The Polish Brewing Industry ... beer consumption has increased greatly from 26 liters per person in 1984 and is now around 40 liters. This is well below the level reached in most western European countries, but given another 10 years or so they should have caught up. On the other hand, consumption of spirits has lost a lot of its popularity ... and a good thing too. Polish pubs could be a very depressing sight. Customers sitting by themselves with only a pair of 10cl glasses for company didn't make for a very cheerful atmosphere. Currently, there are around 80 breweries active, including three micros founded in the 1990's. Beers are produced at a wide range of strengths, from 2.5% to 9.5% alcohol. Those at the higher end are more common that you might expect, but it's perhaps not quite so surprising when you consider the vodka-drinking tradition. In type, these are mostly pale lagers, though there are some dark lagers, too. Porters, in the strong Baltic style, are produced by a large number of breweries. These are around 22% balling or 9% alcohol, very dark brown to black in color and with a sweet, rich flavor. A majority of these breweries still operate on a small scale and have an annual production of fewer than 100,000 hectoliters. At the other end of the scale, there are a handful of large breweries producing over 1 million hl. This group includes most of the better-known names such as Zywiec and Okocim. These companies seem to have been able to use their economic power to elbow their smaller rivals off the pub bars.

Polish Pubs ... Many things have changed in Poland since the late 1980's, not all of which have been improvements. With regard to pubs, the changes have most definitely been for the better.

Once it was difficult enough to find a pub of any kind, but finding one with draught beer was almost impossible. Fortunately, a large number of new pubs have appeared, with their trade based on the sale of draught beer. It's now no problem to find somewhere with five or six draught beers and a dozen bottled.


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The inspiration for these new drinking establishments often appears to have been the British pub, though the accuracy of the interpretation varies widely. Others are more on the lines of Czech boozers, which would seem a more sensible starting point, given the premises available for use.

One distinctive Polish trait is emerging and, while it may seem strange to us, it should be encouraged. This feature is the almost total darkness found inside. Sometimes, this is born of necessity or convenience in bars buried in deep cellars or hidden in obscure outbuildings. In other cases, it is voluntary, where, in buildings with a perfectly good frontage on a street, the windows are carefully blacked out. Something else worth noting about Polish pub culture is the unusual age profile of the customers. In most countries, one of the largest groups of pub-users is always the under-30, but the middle-aged, especially middle-aged men, are always well represented. In Poland it's rare to see anyone over 25 in a pub. I can only assume that, because of the lack of anywhere to go in years gone by, older Poles have never got into the habit of going out drinking. It does lead to some odd experiences. Like entering a pub and finding that 80% of the customers are well-dressed, middle-class girls of 20 or less. That mainstay of pub life, the middle-aged male worker slurping down a few beers after his shift, barely gets a look in. Into the night ... If you believe urban legend, Kraków has the highest density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz. In spite of high tourism, prices remain low. Expect to pay around 5zł ($2) for a large beer. The opening hours in most bars are flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring.

Be warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel, and have been the ruin of more than a few good men. If you plan on making an ass of yourself make sure it is not in front of a policeman. A trip to Krakow’s premier drunk tank (ul. Rozrywka 1) will set you back 250zł ($100) and you will be detained for approximately 12 hours while you sober up. Credit cards not accepted. In return for your cash expect a set of blue pajamas, a full strip search, coffee mugs that stink of urine and the company of mad vagrants. As tempting as it may seem, do not resist arrest. Those doing so will find themselves strapped to a bed in the style of ‘One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest’, sedated and in some cases beaten with truncheons. Accept you have been a naughty person and behave. (Source: http://www.europeanbeerguide.net/polintr.htm)

So ... the above primer on Polish beer is enticing enough that I went out and purchased several of the well-know beers to show the reader (left). It is also noteworthy to show that these cans are not the normal 12 oz. cans, or 300 ml., found in

western culture (U.S.A.) but are a whopping 500 ml. ... ½ a liter. And virtually all of them are of the mocne (strong) variety ... not the common 4.5% to 6% ... but averaging about 7.8% alcohol.

Among the brands tested (for scientific purposes of course) were ...


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Spending the day indoors testing beers gave me way too much time on my hands. Looked out the window and what do I see? Men hanging from rooftops ... painting the roofs. The background: homes in Poland typically have tiled or metal roofs. Metal roofs are made of blacha (tin-plated metal). These roofs must be repainted about 18 years or so ... due to heavy weathering. Because Iwona’s neighborhood is about that old ... homes here are having their roofs repainted. Not an easy task considering that roofs are steep-pitched. So there I was ... sipping on my beer and watching two homes across the street having their roofs painted. Certainly not for a vertigo-inclined person:

Nowhere to anchor safety line ... so hold on tight.

Anchored to the chimney ...

At the peak ...

By 4PM my beer testing completed we made our way to the Zembala-Bembenek house (apartment) for our kolacja (supper).

Soon after our arrival the table was set ...

... our eveing’s fare included barszcz (clear beetroot soup) and kapusniaczek (cabbage filled pastry) ...

... a variety of makowiec (poppy seed cake) ...

... and other pastries. Tea and French wine were the accompanying drinks.

Allow me to introduce our hosts ... Iwona, in one of her pensive, reflective poses ... a charming and genial person ...

... and Jozef, an articulate and serious man with a streak of witty humor and a beguiling smile.

Both are educators ... intelligent and cultured. One is always made to feel comfortable in their company.


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After the dining the talk moved on to the serious subject of the planned trip to Warsaw tomorrow. Iwona already made the hotel reservations ... we would take an early express train and arrive in Warsaw by late morning ... tour Warsaw’s Old Town and surrounds ... take in a palace and a museum ... and basically see and do whatever is possible the balance of the day. We agreed to meet tomorrow (Saturday) morning at the Dworzec Kolejowy (Main Railway Station) ... upstairs at the taxi stand ... and attempt to take the 8:00 express. All heads nodded in approval ... and by 21:00 we left, took a taxi to Kwiatowa ... and had pleasant dreams of an exciting journey to Poland’s capital city. Saturday, April 21st ...

Got up at 5:45 AM ... not wanting to take any chances on missing the train. By 7:00 we’re all cleaned up ... small overnight bag ... money in pocket ... and taxi on the way. Left at 7:10; in 20 minutes we’re at the train depot ... waiting for Iwona.

Station perons (platforms) empty ...

... Iwona arrives and purchases tickets (reserved seats) ...

... and we’re off to catch our train.

... express train arrives ...

... we settle in as the train departs ...

... watch the passing countryside ...

... before we arrive on the outskirts of Warsaw.

Warsaw ... is not the cold and dead city it used to be under communism’s rule. Today with bustling Polish economy and freedom from communist rule - the city has undergone a huge transformation process. Many old communist buildings gave way to modern sky scrapers, dilapidating old town was restored, entertainment and services transformed to match that of other western capitals. Crime rate is lower than that of big cities in the United States. Today Warsaw boasts GDP per capita more than 85% of European Union average.


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History of Warsaw ... Warsaw is one of the youngest capitals in Europe. It became the Polish capital after Cracow in 16th century. Early settlements however already existed in the 10th century. In 1655 Warsaw's development as the country's capital was halted upon the Swedish invasion known as the "deluge". The Swedish forces destroyed and plundered much of Warsaw at that time. Warsaw experienced its "golden age" in the 18th century under the last Poland's king Stanislaw August Poniatowski. During that time it was transformed into a modern city. During Poland's partitions by 3 countries - Prussia, Austria and Russia - Warsaw was under Russia rule. From late 18th century until the World War I Warsaw never gained independence from Russians. After World War I when Poland gained independence Warsaw was reestablished as the capital of Poland. Until World War II, Varsovians worked hard to build new infrastructure and expand the city. Upon World War II the city's development was stopped. Within the first 3 weeks after the German invasion in World War II Warsaw's resistance was crushed. After the capitulation of Warsaw - Jewish Ghetto was formed. In April 1943 Warsaw witnessed the uprising in Jewish Ghetto which was brutally crushed by Nazis killing almost all Jews left in Warsaw. In 1944 the famous Warsaw uprising begun - one of the biggest bloodsheds of World War II. For 63 days Varsovians fought the Nazis in hopes of liberating the city. Unfortunately the uprising failed and Hitler ordered the city to be reduced to rubbles. Consequently 85% of the city was destroyed during the war. Half of all the people living in Warsaw prior to World War II were either killed or displaced. Big majority of Jewish population living in Warsaw was exterminated by the Nazis. In addition to that Warsaw was isolated from the West because of communism and Soviet influence. After World War II Warsaw came under communist control and a massive rebuilding program restored many of the monuments, palaces and castles. Unfortunately only the New Town and Old Town was reconstructed to their original past - the rest of Warsaw's architecture is influenced by socialist realism. People in Warsaw resented the communists and Soviet influence. The living conditions during communism were despicable and there were few opportunities for people to develop themselves. Many Varsovians during communism chose to flee to the West in search of a better life. In 1989 Poland gained freedom from communism and from Soviet influence. It is yet another chance for Warsaw to become one of the most important cities in Europe. Warsaw after World War II ... On November 10th 1980 the Solidarity trade movement was legally registered in the Warsaw district court. It demanded wage rises and better living conditions for all People in Poland. It organized massive strikes and protest all around Poland. The movement was supported by the West and was seen as contributing to collapse of communism in the whole Eastern Europe. Unfortunately in 1981 the Solidarity movement was crushed in December 13th 1981 when the martial law was imposed in Poland. In 1989 however Solidarity came to rise again and this time the communists sat down on round table talks with Solidarity members in Warsaw to discuss the future of Poland. Soon free elections were held for all of Poland. The integration of Poland with NATO structures as well as European Union was started.

We arrive at 10:45 at Warszawa Centralna (Warsaw Central). It is a cavernous station (left)

However ... the first order of business is to procure our return tickets (left) ... knowing that sizable crowds later in the day hinder a speedy purchase.

Exiting the station ... the first sight that greets us (being in City Center) ... is the huge Palace of Culture.

Marshall (Marszalkowska) Street in Warsaw ... Rebuilding of Warsaw after World War II coincided with emergence of socialist realism. The facades of many buildings in this area show the uninspired architecture style of the communist area. Buildings are generally dull and it is difficult to distinguish one building from the other. However this area shows the remnants of Warsaw's communist past and in that sense it is very interesting. In the heart of Warsaw is the Palace of Culture. This monolithic building was a "gift" from the Soviet Union to Warsaw. It was built in 1955 to the design of a Russian architect and resembles Moscow high-rises. Although it has only 30 stories - it was Europe's second largest building at that time. The first order of business is to locate Hotel Metropol, our overnight stay. It is supposed to be within walking distance of the railroad station and near Centrum. We take the underground passage to cross busy Zolimskie Street and walk along its length to Centrum. At rondo Dmoskiego (centrum’s traffic round-about), on Marszalkowska Street, sits our hotel.


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We check in ... our rooms are ready ... we park our luggage ... and make a hasty exit to start the day’s exploration.

Being Centrum, our options are many ... but we elect to start with area called “Royal Route” ... which will lead to Stare Miasto (Old Town) and Nowy Miasto (New Town). The Royal Route starts at Nowy Swiat (New World) Street ... and that’s where we are heading. For reference, the map (left) indicates some areas of Warsaw that are principal to our visit.

The Royal Route ... extends from Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) in Stare Miasto to the end of Krakowskie Przedmiescie and Nowy Swiat (basically the same long street) at rondo Ch. de Gaulle. Along both streets one can admire buildings that are predominantly Neo-Classical in style as well as many churches and palaces. Nowy Swiat and Krakowskie Przedmiescie also feature many exclusive cafes, restaurants, stores and fashionable boutiques. Nowy Swiat is great for walks as part of the street is closed for traffic. In middle ages this area was occupied by Warsaw's wealthiest residents. The area suffered during the Swedish invasion in 1655 but it was soon rebuilt.

We start our walk northwards from the hotel, up Marszalkowska Street and, at the Galeria Centrum (mega-shopping mall), turn right onto Chmielna Street and almost immediately decide that its lunch time, as we passed a few interesting cafes. So it was time to eat ... considering that none of us had breakfast that morning.

We select Café C.K. Oberza because their menu indicated that they served pierogis. We settled in ... found an empty table in the back room ... and waited for service. We ordered and within 10 minutes were served ...

... tea and goulash soup ...

... and for me, potato-and-cheese pierogis.

Now ... we’re ready for the day’s exploration and sight-seeing.

Nowy Swiat is true to its new ... it is “new” being totally repaved.


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The architecture along its length is neo-classical ...

We pass the Polish Academy of Science ...

... the monument to Mikojal Kopernik - Nicolas Copernicus

... University of Warsaw

... Visitations Nuns’ Church

... Presidents’ Palace

... The Carmelite Church

... Monument to Adam Mickiewicz, a renowned Polish poet


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... and St. Anne’s Church.

The Royal Route offered many noteworthy points of interest but the best lays just ahead ... Stare Miasto (Old Town). Although fundamentally rebuilt after World War II, it still holds magic over the city.

Day’s visit to Warsaw continues in next section ...

Recollections of Poland 2007 - Rozylowicz · Recollections of Poland ... 2007 April 15 th – April...

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