Recipes from Down South by Donald Link with Paula Disbrowe

8/13/2019 Recipes from Down South by Donald Link with Paula Disbrowe

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Copyright 2014 by Donald LinkPhotographs copyright 2014 by Chris Granger

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group,a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin RandomHouse Company, New York.www.crownpublishing.comwww.clarksonpotter.com

CLARKSON POTTER is a trademark and POTTER with

colophon is a registered trademark of Random House LLC.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication DataLink, Donald. Down south : bourbon, pork, gulf shrimp, and secondhelpings of everything / Donald Linkwith Paula Disbrowe. pages cm

1. Cooking, AmericanSouthern style. 2. Cooking,Cajun. I. Disbrowe, Paula. II . Title.TX827.L64 2013 641.5975dc23

2013020280

ISBN 978-0-7704-3318-5eBook ISBN 978-0-7704-3319-2

Printed in Hong Kong

Book design by Jan Derevjanik and Stephanie HuntworkCover design by Stephanie Huntwork

Cover photographs by Chris Granger

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition
http://www.crownpublishing.com/http://www.crownpublishing.com/


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51O LD- SCHO O L SO UTHE RN CO CK TAIL PARTIE S

W I TH A C R A C K L Y shell and a light, pillowy middle, gougres, also called cheese puffs, are

one of the most perfect foods to pop in your mouth between sips of your favorite adult beverage

(theyre delicious with Champagne). The Parmesan and bacon add a rich, savory flavor that

makes them difficult to stop eating.

Heat the oven to 425F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium-low heat until crisp

but not too dark. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper

towels, and reserve cup of the rendered fat. When the bacon is

cool, chop to make cup.

Bring the milk, cup water, the butter, and the reserved bacon fat

to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the

salt, onion powder, sugar, and cayenne. Add the flour and, usinga wooden spoon, stir very quickly in one direction. The flour will

quickly absorb the liquid and form a dough. Continue stirring to cook

the flour (and remove its raw taste) and simmer off more of the

moisture until the dough pulls away from the sides of the saucepan,

an additional minute or two.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the

paddle attachment.

Add the eggs one at a time, mixing on medium speed until each

is incorporated into the dough, which will change from shiny to

sticky as the eggs are worked in. On low speed, stir in 1 cup of the

Parmesan and the bacon until just combined.

Using a small ice cream scoop (about 2 inches in diameter), scoop

the dough onto the prepared baking sheets. Top the gougres with

an equal amount of the remaining cup Parmesan.

Bake until puffed and golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm.

PARMESAN

BACONGougres

MAKES 2 DOZEN

4 strips of thick-sliced bacon

cup whole milk4 tablespoons ( stick)unsalted butter

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon onion powder

teaspoon sugar

teaspoon cayenne

1 cups bread flour, sifted

3 large eggs

1 cups freshly gratedParmesan cheese


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88 DOWN SOUT H

BEER

SMOKED

BeefShort Ribs

SERVES 6 TO 8

3 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon black pepper

2 teaspoons cayenne

8 to 10 pounds beef short ribs,

cut along the bone,1 to 1 pounds each

2 onions

1 carrot

3 (6-inch) rosemary branches

2 (12-ounce) bottles of beer(lager or dark, as you prefer)

Combine the salt, sugar, black pepper, and cayenne in a large mixing

bowl. Add the ribs and toss until the pieces are somewhat evenly

coated. Set aside to marinate while you light the fire.

Set up your grill or smoker for low-and-slow cooking with woodchunks (see page 68).

When the wood begins to smolder, put the ribs directly over the

heat, close the grill, and smoke at 225F for 3 hours. Add more hot

coals and a few wood chunks every 30 minutes or so, and adjust the

vents as needed to maintain a steady temperature.

Dice the onions and carrot and put them in a large aluminum pan

with the rosemary and beer.

Transfer the ribs to the aluminum pan, cover the pan with foil, and

return to the grill. Smoke for about 8 more hours (adding more hot

coals and a few wood chunks every 30 minutes or so, and adjusting

the vents as needed to maintain a steady temperature of 250F

to 275F), until the meat is very tender and pulls away easily from

the bone.

Serve the ribs with a few spoonfuls of the rich braising liquid.

W H E N I T C O M E S to cooking short ribs outside, the basic idea is to infuse the meat with

smoke and then put the ribs in a high-sided, covered pan to slow-cook the rest of the way. As

with all fatty meats, slow is good for coaxing out flavor and making the ribs tender. The cooking

time may vary here. To test for doneness, gently pinch the meat on the sides to see if it gives;

thats when its done. If the meat still feels hard, thats because it isgive it a little longer.

These short ribs are an all-day eventthey cook for about eleven hoursand youll need

something to snack on when youre hanging by the grill. Try the Smoked Chicken Thighs onpage 73. (On that note, youll also want to choose your company wisely, as theyll be hanging out

for the entire day, too. . . .)


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202 DOWN SOUT H

I L O V E TH E new direction of Southern food using more worldly ingredients and different

preparations, but this is one dish that I just wouldnt touch. Every time I eat this I am

transported back to my grandads kitchen and the warmth and security of what it feels like

when the smells of ham hocks and fresh shelled peas are hanging in the air and everything in

the world is perfect.

To make the broth, combine the hocks, onion, bay leaves, and

3 quarts water in a medium heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a boil

over high heat and then reduce the heat so that the water simmers.

Cover and cook until the ham hocks are completely tender, about

4 hours.

Add the peas, salt, and pepper and cook until the peas are tender,

30 to 45 minutes. Make sure the peas have enough liquid to cover

them throughout the cooking process. If the liquid seems to beevaporating too quickly, cover the pot. The liquid should soak up into

the beans as they cook; when they are done, the liquid level should

be even with the peas.

Stir in the chile vinegar before serving.

HAM HOCKSand

CROWDER

PEAS

SERVES 6 TO 8

2 smoked ham hocks

1 onion, cut into medium dice

2 bay leaves

2 pounds shelled fresh crowder peasor other field peas

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoonkosher salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

3 tablespoons Easy Pickled ChileVinegar (page 168)


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Recipes from Down South by Donald Link with Paula Disbrowe

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