REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS - Danchuk Letters/News_12.1... · REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER...

REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS.......In this issue of the Danchuk “Update” we are going to show you how to rebuild your upper and lower a-arms, or control arms as they are also called. We will show you how to take them out of the car, and put them back in, replacing the bushings, ball joints and rubber bumpers along the way. We took most of the pictures using the frame from our 1956 Convertible project, but the procedures are the same whether you are working on a bare frame or a complete car. We know there are other ways to accomplish what we are doing here, but we feel this is the safest way to do the job. Remember to use caution when putting the car on jack stands and lifting it with the floor jack, don’t forget to block the back wheels before you start. For safety’s sake, NEVER work under the car without jack stands. Let’s get started....

YOU WILL NEED:Shop ManualNeedle Nose PliersBaby Sledge HammerLarge Pickle ForkFloor JackSpring CompressorTorque WrenchAir Chisel and Air Compressor (You can do this without the Air, but it is not as easy)1⁄2 inch ratchet3/8 inch ratchetDikes, for trimming the cotter pinsLong flat blade screwdriver10 oz Ball Peene Hammer1⁄2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3⁄4 and 7/8” wrenches and sockets in both 3/8 and 1/2” drive.

Removal and disassembly of the upper and lower a-arms1.) Park the car in a secure position and block the rear wheels. With your floor jack, raise the front end of the car off the ground until it is high enough for you to crawl under it comfortably. Support the car on jack stands positioning the stands on the frame behind the front wheels. When the stands are secure lower the floor jack and remove. 2.) Remove the front tires. With your 9/16” wrench find and remove the nut from the upper shock stud in the engine compartment.

With your 1⁄2” socket, remove the bolts that hold the shock on the lower a-arm and remove the shock from the bottom. If your car is equipped with a sway bar, use your 1⁄2” socket and a wrench and remove the end links from the lower a-arm. Then, with your 9/16” socket remove the lower bumper stop from the lower a-arm and discard, unless you are going to reuse the lower bumpers.NOTE: There are a few ways to remove the front springs and if you do not use a spring compressor follow the instructions in the shop manual, as we will not go into them here. We used a spring compressor, as it is much safer and easier.

GENERAL MANAGER’S MESSAGE

Happy New Year!!! I hope ev-eryone’s was as fun and safe as mine. The holidays are a great time of year, but it’s nice to finally be through them. I’m now looking forward to the coming year and the projects we have brewing. 2006 promises to be one of the best yet. Many of the projects we have been working on for some time have finally been completed and we have a whole batch of new irons in the fire that have us all excited.

On a much sadder note. I would like to take this op-portunity to say “thank you and goodbye” to a legend in our industry. On Christmas morning we lost a person in this business that we will miss forever. Don Trivett passed away, leaving behind memories and stories that will last us all a lifetime. Don was the owner of Volunteer State Chevy Parts out of Tennessee. He was an incredible man with a passion for this business rarely found. He was one of the first people Dan and Art Danchuk did business with over 30 years ago and when I was only 19 years old Don was the first vendor I made contact with in my new job as a supervisor here at Danchuk. Don broke me in properly by handing me a 15 minute butt chewing for doing something the wrong way and left me scared out of my young mind. Anybody that knew Don, knows how famous he was for these little rants but how harmless and fun spirited he actually was. He had a tough guy reputation that was just a smoke screen for the great guy that he re-ally was. I considered him a personal friend and will miss him daily. Thanks for everything, Don, from all of us here at Danchuk.

I would also like to thank everyone that helped us have such a fantastic 2005. We look forward to continuing to give you the best service humanly possible and satisfying your every need in 2006.

Happy Restoring,

Steve BrownGeneral Manager

REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS.......3.) Place the spring compressor under the lower a-arm and feed it through the shock hole. Align the clamps of the spring compres-sor on to the coils of the spring. Take a large socket, ours was 15/16” with a 1⁄2” drive, and tighten the spring compressor taking care to make sure the clamps or arms stay in place on the spring. Tighten until the spring is com-pressed and pulls away from the lower a-arm and spring pocket in the frame and becomes loose. Then, take the floor jack and position it under the lower a-arm. Raise the jack until it contacts the lower arm and your car just begins to lift off the jack stands and stop. With your needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin from the upper and lower ball joints.

4.) With your 3⁄4” wrench or socket, loosen the nut on the upper ball joint stud, DO NOT RE-MOVE the nut, just loosen it a couple of turns. When the ball joint studs break free from the spindle we want them there to be sure the as-sembly does not fly apart and cause possible injury.

Place the end of the pickle fork in between the spindle and the upper ball joint. Hit the end of the pickle fork with your baby sledge hammer and wedge it in between until the stud on the ball joint pops free from the spindle or, if you are using air, jam the

fork end in and run the air hammer a couple of times to pop it loose. (Our pic shows the castle nut removed. You will not remove the castle nut until later.) Application of a hammer on the outside of the spindle where the stud goes can sometimes help break the stud free if the pressure of the pickle fork is not enough (leave the pickle fork in place for this or run the air hammer, you want to maintain pressure between the arm and ball joint). A few hits on the castle nut may be necessary as well, but be careful not to damage the stud if you are going to reuse the ball joint.

Repeat the same procedure on the lower a-arm ball joint to loosen.

When both ball joints are loose from the a-arms, remove the nuts on the ball joint studs and remove from the spindle. Move the spindle assembly to the side taking care not to damage or hang the assembly on the flexible brake line. We recommend taking some wire and suspending the spindle assembly in the wheel well so as not to damage the brake hose. You will not have to remove the tie rods unless you are replac-ing the spindles.

Lower the floor jack and the spring will drop out of the spring pocket. Remove the spring and set aside.You are now ready to begin unbolting the upper and lower arms from the frame.NOTE: Any upper alignment shims that are in place at the upper shafts will need to be put back when you reassemble the car, so keep a note of how many came from where.

5.) Remove the bolts that secure the lower a-arm shaft from the frame; there will be 4 of them, with a 5/8” and 11/16” wrench or socket. Lower the

lower a-arm. You may have to use a long flat blade screwdriver or pry bar between the a-arm shaft and the frame to loosen.

6.) Now, turn your at-tention to the two bolts that hold the upper a-arm to the frame. Loosen and remove the nuts and carefully slide the upper arm off the end of the bolts and remove the arm from the car.

7.) The upper control arms are held to the frame with two bolts. If you are replacing these bolts tap them with your hammer and drive them out of the frame. (They are held in place by splines in the end of the bolt near the head, these splines also keep them from turning when you tighten them.)

8.) Now that you have the spindle removed from each of the a-arms, remove the nut and washer that holds the bushings on the shafts upper and lower. To remove the bushings we used an air hammer with a chisel attachment. (You can also do this with a hammer and chisel by hand.) First, spray some lube on the outside of the bushings, it will make taking them out much easier. Then, press the punch end or chisel against the collar on the end of the bushing and drive the bushing out of the a-arm over the end of the shaft. Repeat on the other side and remove the shaft from the a-arm.

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REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS.......9.) Removing the ball joints can be difficult if they have not been removed before (ours had). If they have, then all you will have to do is unbolt them from the a-arm. If they have not you will have to drill out the rivets or cut off the rivet heads to remove the ball joints. A fiber disk cutter can help if you have to cut the heads off or a heavy duty drill, drill bits and a center punch will be needed. If you are drilling or cutting the rivets take care not to damage the a-arm in the process.

10.) Clean, inspect for damage and paint the a-arms and parts and you are ready for reas-sembly. Before you put them together, test fit a new bushing in the a-arms. They should not be able to be put in by hand and the holes where they go should be smooth and undam-aged. If your a-arms are worn at the bushing holes you will have to replace them as the bushing should not move in the a-arm, they should be tight. If you are not sure about this step, take you’re a-arms to a professional for inspection.

Reassembling the A-arms...

1.) Now that everything is clean and inspected you are ready to put the a-arms back together and put them back in the car. Assembling the upper arms and bushings can be done without a press, but we recommend using one, so take them to a professional and have them installed if you don’t have access to a press.

2.) Position the upper shaft in the a-arm and slide one bushing over each end as shown.

3.) Spray the bushings and the inner parts of the a-arm where the bushings go with spray lube. This will reduce the friction as you press the

bushings into the a-arm and over the shafts.

4.) Cut a bar from old stock the length of the a-arm from inside to inside as shown in the photos. You can use wood if you don’t have steel stock, just make sure it is beefy enough to take the pressure of the press. Posi-tion the bar in between the inner portion of the a-arm. This bar will keep the a-arm from moving or collapsing when you press the bushings making the job much easier.

5.) Place a socket that is large enough to go over the end of, but still sits snug over, each of the upper bush-ings. As shown in the pictures, position the a-arm so that one socket sits on the table of the press and the other is against the press itself. SLOWLY press on the socket and drive the bushings into place. Be sure that you get no snags and don’t be shy with the lube. Press until the bushings are seated against the a-arms. To make assembly to the car easier, position the upper shaft so the bolt holes are in the proper position as shown.

6.) When the presswork is complete, install the bolts and washers that will hold the bushings on the upper shaft but do not tighten them yet. We will tighten everything up once everything is back on the car.

7.) To install the upper ball joint, position the ball joint in the a-arm from the top and install the cover from the bottom. (This may vary depend-ing on what brand of ball joint you purchased.) Put the bolts in from the top, line everything up and tighten. Torque the bolts to the spec

recommended in the info sheet that came with your ball joints. Then install the zerk fitting and loosely install the castle nut. Your upper a-arm assembly is ready to be installed on the car.

8.) The lower assembly is basically the same except it is a little beefier than the uppers and they have an inner and outer surface for the bushings to ride on. As you did on the upper, cut a piece of stock to support the inner parts of the a-arm. You will also want to support the lower a-arm as shown in the photos with a small piece of stock to support the middle portion of the a-arm. You can damage the a-arms while pressing in the bushings if you do not support them in this manner.

9.) Set up the lower a-arm on the press as you did the upper and press the bushing in place being careful not to snag the bushing on the arm. Be sure to position

the lower shaft properly before assembly. The thicker shoulder always points towards the front of the vehicle and the thicker one should be at the front when you take them apart. They are uneven front to back and if you reassem-ble them incorrectly you will not be able to align the car.

10.) You will want to install the lower bumper in the a-arm at this point, but don’t. they will be easier to install once the spring has been installed and the as-sembly is together.

11.) The ball joints will install much the same as the uppers did ex-cept the lower ball joints install from the bottom of the a-arm. Install the bolts so that the nuts are on the top and torque to the spec provided

3Danchuk . . . “There’s No Comparison”

with the ball joints. Install the boot and loosely install the castle nut.We are now ready to install our newly rebuilt a-arms on the car.

1.) Install the upper a-arm bumper on the frame by pushing the nub into the proper hole. Again, spray lube will make this easier.

2.) If you are using new bolts for the uppers, install the bolts in the frame and gently tap them in place until seated.

3.) Slide the a-arm shafts over the bolts and install the nuts and washers. If there were any a-arm adjustment washers here when you took the car apart,

reinstall them in the same position you took them from and tighten the nuts.4.) From underneath the car, install the bolts that hold the lower assemblies in place.

There are two different lengths of bolts, the longer ones will go where the shaft is thicker

so look at the shaft and put the longer bolts in the proper

holes. Slide the lower shafts on the bolts, install the nuts and lock washers and tighten.5.) Next, take your com-pressed spring and install it in the pocket in the lower arm and the frame.Put your floor jack under the

lower a-arm and raise them until they are in a position where you can install the spindle assembly. Install the spindle on the lower ball joint studs and install the castle nut.

6.) Lift the lower a-arm and spindle until the upper ball joint can be installed in the spindle.

Install the castle nut and torque to recom-mended specs.Torque the lower ball joint to spec as well and install the cotter pins.

7.) Carefully loosen the spring compressor and

seat the spring in the seat pockets. Remove the spring compressor from inside the spring and remove the spring compressor through the shock hole.

8.) Install your shock absorbers, lower a-arm bumpers and wheels.

9.) Put the floor jack under the car and jack up the car to remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground. Now you want to seat and work the bushings in place. To do this, bounce the car up and down a few times, like you are checking the shocks.

10.) Now tighten the upper and lower bolts in the bushing ends. To properly position the a-arms the bushings must be tightened with the weight of the car on them. If you cannot get under the car to do the lowers be sure to use the jack under the lower a-arm to keep pressure on the assembly. Jack the car up enough so you can get to the bolts but before tightening them, put jack stands under the frame in case the floor jack fails. Do not lower the car on the stands; keep pressure on the a-arm assemblies.

11.) Tighten the end bushing bolts making sure you get them tight. If done correctly, you will see the rubber on the ends bulge out from behind the washer. (In a few months you will probably see small cracks here. This is nor-mal.) Then, reinstall the lower sway bar end links, if your car has a sway bar, and put the car back on the ground. Get out the grease gun and lube the upper and lower ball joints, take the car to the alignment shop for a front end alignment and you are finished!!!!

We hope that we have shown you that a job that looks pretty intimidating can be done with the proper tools and some patience in your garage or driveway. If you don’t own, or don’t want to purchase the tools necessary to do this job, check your local auto parts store to see if they have them for rent. They can probably do the press work for you in any case.Happy Motoring.

REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS.......

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Louis Chevrolet, the man who gave his name to the world’s most popular and famous American car was a self-taught engineer and famous racecar driver. Every-body knows about the Chevrolet Company, but the story of the first Chevrolet’s

designer and Chevrolet’s namesake is not so well known.

Louis-Joseph Chevrolet was born on Christmas day, 1878, in the Swiss town La Chauz-de-Fonds. He was the second son of Joseph-Felicien Chevrolet who worked as a watch-maker and farmer. Louis Chevrolet showed mechanical talent at an early age. He worked on and raced motorcycles successfully until he discovered cars. He became a mechanic in the pioneering French auto industry and jumped from job to job gaining valuable experience until he decided to leave Switzerland and seek his fortune.

In 1900, at age 22, Chevrolet moved to Montreal and took a job as a chauffer, which in those days meant being a mechanic as well as a driver. He worked as a chauffer for six months before going to New York, his ultimate destina-tion. When he arrived he took a job with the American Headquarters of Dedion in Brooklyn. He went to work for Fiat shortly thereafter and became involved with auto racing.

Mr. Chevrolet won his first race on a cinder track in Morris Park, New York on May 20th, 1905. This Muscular young Frenchman was well suited to driving the rough-riding race cars of the day and Chevrolet demonstrated a fearless talent on the track. His fame began to spread when he beat the legendary Barry Oldfield three times that 1905 season.

In addition to his driving skills Chevrolet was de-veloping into a respected self-taught engineer. He left Fiat in 1906 to work with Walter Christie, the American front wheel drive pioneer, on a Christie passenger car as well as a Durralq-En-gined land speed car which Chevrolet drove to a record 119 MPH.

In 1907, Chevrolet’s success as an innovator, designer, mechanic and driver attracted the attention of W.C. Durant, a millionaire carriage maker from Flint Michigan who had acquired control of the Buick Motor Company in 1904. He would use Buick as the cornerstone of the

General Motors Company, which he founded in 1908.Durant hired Louis and his brother Arthur to join the staff at Buick. Buick had a reliable, overhead valve en-gine and Mr. Durant wanted to enter Buick’s in motor racing to demon-strate their power and durability, and gain publicity for the company. Du-rant hired the Chevrolet’s to design and build Buick racecars. Working with Buick engineers they developed the “Buick Bugs” which they and Buick driver Bob Burman raced successfully for several years.

Durant lost control of GM to the banks in 1910 and in order to capitalize on the famous driver-engineers name, Durant hired Chevrolet and formed the Chevrolet Motor Company. Durant wanted Chevrolet to design and build him a car from the ground up.

Durant had planned a small lightweight car to compete with the Model “T” Ford but when the new car was finished in 1911 and went to production in 1912 it was much heavier and more expensive than he had planned. Louis had designed and built the Chevrolet Six Type C Classic with a 120 inch wheelbase, a 299 cubic inch engine and a price tag of $2150.00 which in those days was out of the reach of anyone but the truly wealthy. Chevrolet felt that his name did not belong on a car for the masses but only on a big impressive automobile. Durant was less than pleased as he realized he needed to produce cheaper cars they could sell at high volume to be truly successful. Chevrolet felt his talents would be wasted on such a car and resigned in October of 1913. He was so upset he sold off all the stocks and securities he got from forming the company with Durant as well.

Durant continued to put the Chevrolet name on many of his cars and developed his desired light car from Mason Motor Company and Little Motor Car Company designs, two companies he had acquired while Chevrolet was developing the Six Type C. Durant re-organized General Motors in 1933 with Chevrolet as it’s leading division. Louis Chevrolet would have become a millionaire many times over had he kept his stock.

After he resigned from the Chevrolet Motor Company, Louis formed the Frontenac Motor Corporation and began producing cylinder heads that converted the Model T Ford four-cylinder engine to overhead valves. These “Fronty” heads were successful on the road and track and thousands were sold to Model T owners eager to give the old Tin Lizzy some real

performance. Later, overhead cam versions of the head were built as well. By 1917 he had a new and very advanced racing machine, complete with an aluminum engine block, but he lacked the resources to build it.

Seeking a regular paycheck, Chevrolet signed on as vice-president and chief engineer for a new company called the American Motors Corporation. He helped develop their American Beauty but when development got under way his services were deemed expendable and his services no longer needed.He was then hired by the Monroe Company to build a racecar for Indianapolis. He updated his Frontenac racer and with his brother Gaston at the controls, won the 1920 Indianapolis 500. Even with the prestige of the Indianapolis win Chevrolet was unable to secure backing for Frontenac Motors and the company went bank-rupt with many cars still on the design table.

Chevrolet turned to boat racing and won the Miami Regatta in 1925. In 1929 Louis and Arthur left the auto business altogether to form the Chevrolet Brothers Aircraft Company with a new engine of their design but they lost the business to Glenn L. Martin. Finally, in 1934, out of charity and moral obligation towards the man who gave their best-selling car it’s name, General Motors put Louis on the payroll. Louis retired in 1938 due to illness and died in 1941 after complications from a leg operation forced a complete amputation. Louis was 63.

Louis is buried in Indianapolis, not Detroit. There is a bronze bust of him that greets you as you climb the steps to enter the Speedway Museum at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. A tribute to his mechanical genius and his contributions to early motor sports.

*Special Thanks to Jerry Powell of Conyers, GA for sending us the idea for this story!!Story written by Bill Roche

GENERAL MOTOR’S PREMIER DIVISION BEARS HIS NAME, BUT WHO WAS LOUIS CHEVROLET?


NOW’S THE TIME TO GET GLASS . . .

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1955-57 Clear, 210 2-Door Wagon ............. #10996 .......... $64.00 ............ $58.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, 210 2-Door Wagon ........... #10997 .......... $64.00 ............ $58.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, 210 2-Door Wagon ............. #10998 * ....... $95.00 ............ $86.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, 210 2-Door Wagon ........... #10999 * ....... $95.00. ........... $86.00/ea.

Rear Window Glass1956-57 Clear, 4-Door Hardtop .................. #11000 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1956-57 Tinted, 4-Door Hardtop ................ #11001 .......... $299.00. ......... $269.00/ea.1956-57 Clear, 4-Door Hardtop .................. #11002 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.1956-57 Tinted, 4-Door Hardtop ................ #11003 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, 2-Door Hardtop .................. #11004 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, 2-Door Hardtop ................ #11005 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, 2-Door Hardtop .................. #11006 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, 2-Door Hardtop ................ #11007 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Sedan .................................. #11008 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Sedan ................................ #11009 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Sedan .................................. #11010 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Sedan ................................ #11011 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.

Liftgate Glass1955-57 Clear, Wagon ................................. #11012 .......... $299.00. ......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Wagon ............................... #11013 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Wagon ................................. #11014 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Wagon ............................... #11015 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Nomad ................................ #11016 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Nomad .............................. #11017 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Nomad ................................ #11018 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Nomad .............................. #11019 * ........ $379.00 .......... $341.00/ea.

Slider Glass1955-57 Clear, Nomad ................................ #11020 .......... $64.00 ............ $58.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Nomad .............................. #11021 .......... $64.00 ............ $58.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Nomad ................................ #11022 * ........ $99.00 ............ $90.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Nomad .............................. #11023 * ........ $99.00 ............ $90.00/ea.

Rear Curved Quarter Glass1955-57 Clear, Right, 2-Door Wagon ......... #11024 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Right, 2-Door Wagon ....... #11025 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Right, 2-Door Wagon ......... #11026 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Right, 2-Door Wagon ....... #11027 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Left, 2-Door Wagon ........... #11028 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Left, 2-Door Wagon .......... #11029 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Left, 2-Door Wagon ........... #11030 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Left, 2-Door Wagon .......... #11031 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Right, 4-Door Wagon ......... #11032 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Right, 4-Door Wagon ....... #11033 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Right, 4-Door Wagon ......... #11034 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Right, 4-Door Wagon ....... #11035 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Left, 4-Door Wagon ........... #11036 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Left, 4-Door Wagon .......... #11037 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Left, 4-Door Wagon ........... #11038 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Left, 4-Door Wagon .......... #11039 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Right, Nomad ..................... #11040 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Right, Nomad ................... #11041 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Right, Nomad ..................... #11042 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Right, Nomad ................... #11043 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Left, Nomad ........................ #11044 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Left, Nomad ...................... #11045 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/ea.1955-57 Clear, Left, Nomad ........................ #11046 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.1955-57 Tinted, Left, Nomad ...................... #11047 * ........ $335.00 .......... $301.00/ea.

Windshield Glass1955-56 Clear, Hardtop, Conv, Nomad ...... #11048 .......... $250.00 .......... $225.00/ea.1955-56 Tinted, Hardtop, Conv, Nomad .... #11049 .......... $239.00 .......... $225.00/ea.1955-56 Clear, Hardtop, Conv, Nomad ...... #11050 * ....... $300.00 .......... $270.00/ea.1955-56 Tinted, Hardtop, Conv, Nomad .... #11051 * ....... $300.00 .......... $270.00/ea.1955-56 Clear, Sedan, Wagon .................... #11052 .......... $250.00 .......... $225.00/ea.1955-56 Tinted, Sedan, Wagon .................. #11053 .......... $239.00 .......... $215.00/ea.1955-56 Clear, Sedan, Wagon .................... #11054 * ........ $300.00 .......... $270.00/ea.1955-56 Tinted, Sedan, Wagon .................. #11055 * ........ $300.00 .......... $270.00/ea.1957 Clear, Hardtop, Conv, Nomad ........... #11056 .......... $250.00 .......... $225.00/ea.1957 Tinted, Hardtop, Conv, Nomad ......... #11057 .......... $239.00 .......... $215.00/ea.1957 Clear, Hardtop, Conv, Nomad ........... #11058 * ........ $300.00 .......... $270.00/ea.1957 Tinted, Hardtop, Conv, Nomad ......... #11059 * ........ $300.00 .......... $270.00/ea.

1955-56-57 GLASSAll glass orders are shipped directly to you from our supplier and are charged a $5.00 drop ship fee, plus appropriate freight charges. Call for freight quote if sending a check or money order.

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6 (800) 648-4728 • www.danchuk.com

1957 Clear (Sedan, Wagon) ....................... #11060 .......... $250.00. ......... $225.00/ea.1957 Tinted (Sedan, Wagon) ...................... #11061 .......... $239.00. ......... $215.00/ea.1957 Clear (Sedan, Wagon) ....................... #11062 * ........ $300.00. ......... $270.00/ea.1957 Tinted (Sedan, Wagon) ...................... #11063 * ........ $300.00. ......... $270.00/ea.

Convertible Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11064 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11065 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11066 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11067 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-56 Clear, 7-pc. Set .............................. #11068 .......... $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 7-pc. Set ............................ #11069 .......... $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-56 Clear, 7-pc. Set .............................. #11070 * ........ $625.00 .......... $562.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 7-pc. Set ............................ #11071 * ........ $625.00 .......... $562.00/set1957 7-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 7-pc. part #)

2-Door Hardtop Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11072 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11073 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11074 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11075 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-56 Clear, 8-pc. Set .............................. #11076 .......... $695.00 .......... $625.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 8-pc. Set ............................ #11077 .......... $695.00 .......... $625.00/set1955-56 Clear, 8-pc. Set .............................. #11078 * ........ $895.00 .......... $805.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 8-pc. Set ............................ #11079 * ........ $895.00 .......... $805.00/set1957 8-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 8-pc. part #)

Nomad Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11080 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11081 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11082 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11083 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set ..................... #11084 .......... $850.00 .......... $765.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ................... #11085 .......... $850.00 .......... $765.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set ..................... #11086 * ........ $1050.00 ........ $945.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ................... #11087 * ........ $1050.00 ........ $945.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ............................ #11088 .......... $1345.00 ........ $1210.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set .......................... #11089 .......... $1345.00 ........ $1210.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ............................ #11090 * ........ $1645.00 ........ $1480.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set .......................... #11091 * ....... $1645.00 ........ $1480.00/set1957 10-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 10-pc. part #)

2-Door Sedan Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11092 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11093 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11094 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11095 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1955-56 Clear, 8-pc. Set .............................. #11096 .......... $695.00 .......... $625.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 8-pc. Set ............................ #11097 .......... $695.00 .......... $625.00/set1955-56 Clear, 8-pc. Set .............................. #11098 * ........ $895.00 .......... $805.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 8-pc. Set ............................ #11099 * ........ $895.00 .......... $805.00/set1957 8-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 8-pc. part #)

4-Door Hardtop Glass Sets1956-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11100 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1956-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11101 .......... $299.00 .......... $269.00/set1956-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set ..................... #11102 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1956-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ................... #11103 * ........ $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1956 Clear, 7-pc. Set ................................... #11104 .......... $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1956 Tinted, 7-pc. Set ................................. #11105 .......... $499.00 .......... $449.00/set1956 Clear, 7-pc. Set ................................... #11106 * ........ $625.00 .......... $562.00/set1956 Tinted, 7-pc. Set ................................. #11107 * ........ $625.00 .......... $562.00/set1957 7-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 7-pc. part #)

4-Door Sedan Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set ..................... #11108 .......... $415.00 .......... $373.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ................... #11109 .......... $415.00 .......... $373.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set ..................... #11110 * ........ $675.00 .......... $607.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ................... #11111 * ........ $675.00 .......... $607.00/set

1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ........................#11112 ......... $899.00 .............. $809.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set ......................#11113 ......... $899.00 .............. $809.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ........................#11114 * ...... $1259.00 ............ $1133.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set ......................#11115 * ...... $1259.00 ............ $1133.00/set1957 10-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 10-pc. part #)

150 2-Door Wagon Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set .................#11116 ......... $299.00 .............. $269.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ...............#11117 ......... $299.00 .............. $269.00/set1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set .................#11118 * ...... $499.00 .............. $449.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ...............#11119 * ...... $499.00 .............. $449.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set .................#11124 ......... $850.00 .............. $765.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ...............#11125 ......... $850.00 .............. $765.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set .................#11126 * ...... $1050.00 ............ $945.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ...............#11127 * ...... $1050.00 ............ $945.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ........................#11132 ......... $1345.00 ............ $1210.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set ......................#11133 ......... $1345.00 ............ $1210.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ........................#11134 * ...... $1645.00 ............ $1480.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set ......................#11135 * ...... $1645.00 ............ $1480.00/set1957 10-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 10-pc. part #)

210 2-Door Wagon Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set .................#11120 ......... $299.00 .............. $269.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ...............#11121 ......... $299.00 .............. $269.00/set1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set .................#11122 * ...... $499.00 .............. $449.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ...............#11123 * ...... $499.00 .............. $449.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set .................#11128 ......... $850.00 .............. $765.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ...............#11129 ......... $850.00 .............. $765.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set .................#11130 * ...... $1050.00 ............ $945.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ...............#11131 * ...... $1050.00 ............ $945.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ........................#11136 ......... $1345.00 ............ $1210.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set ......................#11137 ......... $1345.00 ............ $1210.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ........................#11138 * ...... $1645.00 ............ $1480.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set ......................#11139 * ...... $1645.00 ............ $1480.00/set1957 10-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 10-pc. part #)

4-Door Wagon Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set .................#11140 ......... $299.00 .............. $269.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ...............#11141 ......... $299.00 .............. $269.00/set1955-57 Clear,6-pc. Side Set ..................#11142 * ...... $499.00 .............. $449.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set ...............#11143 * ...... $499.00 .............. $449.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set .................#11144 ......... $850.00 .............. $765.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ...............#11145 ......... $850.00 .............. $765.00/set1955-57 Clear, 8-pc. Side Set .................#11146 * ...... $1050.00 ............ $945.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 8-pc. Side Set ...............#11147 * ...... $1050.00 ............ $945.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ........................#11148 ......... $1345.00 ............ $1210.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set ......................#11149 ......... $1345.00 ............ $1210.00/set1955-56 Clear, 10-pc. Set ........................#11150 * ...... $1645.00 ............ $1480.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 10-pc. Set ......................#11151 * ...... $1645.00 ............ $1480.00/set1957 10-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 10-pc. part #)

Sedan Delivery Glass Sets1955-57 Clear, 4-pc. Side Set .................#11152 ......... $188.00 .............. $169.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 4-pc. Side Set ...............#11153 ......... $188.00 .............. $169.00/set1955-57 Clear, 4-pc. Side Set .................#11154 * ...... $324.00 .............. $291.00/set1955-57 Tinted, 4-pc. Side Set ...............#11155 * ...... $324.00 .............. $291.00/set1955-56 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set .................#11156 ......... $675.00 .............. $607.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set (Sed Del)#11157 ........ $675.00 .............. $607.00/set1955-56 Clear, 6-pc. Side Set .................#11158 * ...... $895.00 .............. $805.00/set1955-56 Tinted, 6-pc. Side Set (Sed Del)#11159 * ..... $895.00 .............. $805.00/set1957 6-pc. Set (Add an “A” to the appropriate 1955-56 6-pc. part #)

Note: Parts marked with an “*” are date coded. When ordering date coded glass, you must supply your car’s VIN#.

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8 (800) 648-4728 • www.danchuk.com

1955-57 HEIDT’S 2” STEELDROPPED SPINDLESUse with dropped spindles brake com-ponents, part #2703 shown on page 145. Can accept large or small GM calipers or Wilwood. Caliper brackets for small GM calipers included......#2089 .... $366.95 .......$310.00/pr.

COMPLETE FRONT END KITPOLY PLUS COMPLETE FRONT END KITReplace your stock rubber front end components with a POLYPLUS com-plete front end kit for increased longev-ity and outstanding performance. Does not include idler arm bushings or a-arm bumpers. 1955-57 ................ #12274 ...................$348.95 ............................. $314.05/kit

HELLWIG SWAY BARSIf you’re looking for a bigger Anti-Sway bar, here it is. At 1-1/8" in diameter you get 175% more roll resistance than a 7/8" bar.1955-57 Front, 1-1/8" ...#12722 .... $159.95 ...... $143.95/ea.

A-ARM WASHERS1955-57 Upper, Curved, Bushing .....#12709 ..... $1.75 ...........$1.60/ea.1955-57 Lower, Curved, Bushing ......#12710 .....$1.75. .........$1.60/ea.

TUBULAR A-ARMSUpper and lower A-Arms use original balljoints (sold separately) and come assembled with cross shafts and urethane bushings.1955-57 Upper ..... #10208 ....$302.95 ....$272.65/pr.1955-57 Lower ..... #10209 ....$449.95 ....$404.95/pr.

FRONT ANTI-SWAY BARHeavy 7/8" diameter steel delivers the support your front end needs in the corners. 1955-57 Front ..... #897 .... $149.95 ........$134.95/kit

605 POWER STEERING BOX CONVERSIONThe 605 box bolts in place of the original steering box, and re-uses the original non-power steering linkage. Original columns MUST be modified.1955-57.....#2698 .....$410.00 .......$369.00/ea.

INSTALLATION PARTS ON SPECIAL

MONROE SHOCKS1955-57 Front, Sensa-Trac ....... #186 .....$36.95 ........ $33.25/ea.1955-57 Rear, Sensa-Trac .....#187 .......$36.95 ........ $33.25/ea.

UPPER BALL JOINTTwo are needed per car.1955-57 .....#050 ..... $39.95 ........ $35.95/ea.

LOWER BALL JOINTTwo are needed per car.1955-57 .....#051 ..... $37.95 ......... $34.15/ea.

FRONT DISC BRAKE CON-VERSION COMPONENTSContains rotors, calipers, pads, seals, bearings & hoses for use with our #797 brake kit stock spindles only. Will not clear ‘57 stock wheels.1955-57......#2700 .... $349.95 ....... $314.95/kit1955-57 For Dropped Spindle Conversion...... #2703 .... $289.95 ....... $260.95/kit

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TIE ROD ENDS When replacing the inner driver side tie rod on cars with power steering, you must also order tie rod sleeves shown below. They will allow the needed clearance, as the original inner tie rod end is a longer unit with a short sleeve. The replacement inner tie rod end is shorter than the original. Two of the inner and two of the outer are needed per car.1955-57 Outer ..... #054 ....... $28.95. .........$26.05/ea1955-57 Inner ..... #055 ....... $39.95. .........$35.95/ea.

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IDLER ARM BUSHING1955-57 ...#058 ........ $9.95 ..............$8.95/ea.

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SUPERIOR BRAND 2" DROPPED SPINDLESFeatures integrated steering arms. Can be used with 15" aftermarket wheels. Not compatible w/ Rack & Pinion Steering. 1955-57 w/ 12" Rotors & Calipers ..#12814 .....$625.00 ...... $562.50/kit

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1955-57 A-ARM CUSHIONS Two lower and two upper cushions per car.Upper .... #037 ..... $4.95 .............. $4.45/ea.Lower .... #038 ..... $7.95 .............. $7.15/ea.

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UPPER OFF-SET A-ARM SHAFTAllows an additional 1 degree of camber adjustment.1955-57.....#975 .......$79.95 ..........$71.95/ea.

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IDLER ARM SUPPORT BUSHING1955-57 ...... #059 .... $9.95 .............$8.95/ea

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CONTROL ARMBUSHINGSFour lower upperbushings per car.1955-64 Upper .... #052 ...... $6.95 ............ $6.25/ea

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Special TIE ROD ADJUSTMENT SLEEVE FOR FACTORY POWER STEERING1955-57 Driver .....#13564 ...... $31.95/ea. ...$28.75/ea.

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600 SERIESPOWER STEERING BOXDesigned around the 670 Series Saginaw Power Steering Box, power recirculat-ing-ball gears feature low friction and quick response, while retaining excel-lent road feel. All components are new (not rebuilt) and 100% tested in the factory. Original columns MUST be modified. 1955-57 600 Series, New, 14:1 Ratio .....#13197 ... $419.95 ..... $377.95/ea.

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SALE ENDS MARCH 25, 2006


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WINDOW FUR CHANNEL KITSWe’ve reproduced these kits with all the correct contours and lengths. The exposed beaded edges of the channels are made of polished stainless steel, just like the factory originals. The hardtop kit does not include the upper portion of the roof line contour, but is available under part #2070.1955-57 2-Door Hardtop .................#172 .........$74.95 ..................$67.45/kit1955-57 2-Door Sedan ....................#174 .........$129.95 ................$116.95/kit1955-57 2-Door Station Wagon .....#178 .........$129.95 ................$116.95/kit1956-57 4-Door Hardtop .................#173 .........$74.95 ..................$67.95/kit1955-57 4-Door Sedan ....................#175 .........$129.95 ................$116.95/kit1955-57 4-Door Station Wagon (Shown) .....................................#179 .........$129.95 ................$116.95/kit1955-57 Convertible .......................#176 .........$74.95 ..................$67.45/kit1955-57 Nomad ...............................#177 .........$109.95 ................$98.95/kit1955-57 Sedan Delivery, Utility Sedan .....................................#174A .......$89.95 ..................$80.95/kit

VENT WINDOW SEALSWe send samples of these seals out to a scientific lab to undergo a rigor-ous O-zone test to determine if there will be any premature cracking. We have consistently passed this test with flying colors and we are confident that you, our valued customer, will be thoroughly satisfied with the fit and quality of these seals.1955-57 Hardtop, Convertible, Nomad ..... #565 ..... $53.95 .......... $48.55/set1955-57 Sedan (Shown) ..... #565A ..$53.95 .......... $48.55/set

VERTICLE WINDOW SEALS1955-57 2-Door Hardtop, Convertible.... #566 ....... $7.95 ...........$7.15/set

REAR WINDOW SEALSWhen replacing glass or painting the car, the window seals must be replaced also. Protect your investment with our top-quality, U.S. made window seals, designed to outlast the original rubber.1955 2 & 4-Door 150 Sedan ..................#572 .........$35.95 .......... $32.35/ea.1955 2 & 4-Door 210 & Bel Air Sedan .#570 .........$39.95 .......... $35.95/ea.1956-57 2 & 4-Door Sedan ...................#839 .........$54.95 .......... $49.45/ea.1956-57 4-Door Hardtop .......................#569A .......$39.95 .......... $35.95/ea.1955-57 2-Door Hardtop (Shown) ........#569 .........$39.95 .......... $35.95/ea.1955-57 Wagon & Sedan Delivery ......#571 .........$15.95 .......... $14.35/ea.1955-57 Nomad (Shown) ......................#627 .........$25.95 .......... $23.35/ea.

REAR QUARTER GLASS SEALS FOR NOMADSOur parts are true reproductions, not approximations! Perfect dimensioning and careful quality control are com-bined in this quality part. 1955-57..... #651 .......$57.95 ......... $52.15/pr.

REAR QUARTER GLASS SEALS FOR WAGONSMade in the USA.1955-57 2-Door Wagon....#849 ......... $49.95. ....$44.95/pr.1955-57 4-Door Wagon... #850 .......... $52.95 .... $47.65/pr.

REAR SIDE GLASS SEALSThese seals, designed to fit the sta-tionary rear and center rear windows on the 150 and 210 models will help keep the moisture out.1955-57 2-Door 150 Sedan (Shown) ...... #996 .......$56.00/pr. ..... $50.40/pr.1955-57 4-Door Sedan..... #997 ....... $47.00 ...........$42.30/pr.1955-57 2-Door Wagon Center Side Glass ...... #998 ....... $49.95/pr. .....$44.95/pr.

WINDSHIELD SEALBody shops, glass shops, painters and restorers all agree that there is no substitute for our 100% original windshield seals. The fit is an absolute match to the original part, and our high quality rubber formulas make these seals longer lasting than the original “Made in the USA” Chevrolet versions.1955-57 All except ’55 150 ............ #567 ...........$39.95 ..............$35.95/ea.

GLASS SETTING CHANNELSWith this important part, glass can be safely and securely pressure-fitted into the glass metal channel. Made in the USA.1955-57 Sedan & Wagon........ #842 ...... 19.95 ..........$17.95/set1955-57 2-Door Hardtop & Convertible........ #843 ...... 20.95 ..........$18.85/set1955-57 Nomad........ #844 ...... 16.95 ..........$15.25/set

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SALE ENDS MARCH 25, 2006

S A L E E N D S M A R C H 2 5 , 2 0 0 6

CHECK OUT THESE NEW PARTS AT DANCHUK

Please ask your friendly, knowledgable Customer Service Rep for complete application information.

Description Part # Price55-57 Shockwave front & rear; kit ......................................... #13670 .................$3,143.95All Maxi-Fuse holder, 60 amp; ea ........................................ #13673 ......................$19.95All Midi-Fuse holder, 100amp; ea ........................................ #13674 ......................$22.95All Mega-Fuse holder, 175amp; ea ...................................... #13675 ......................$19.95All In-Line fuse holder,waterproof; ea ................................ #13676 ........................$7.50All Flasher, LED; ea .............................................................. #13677 ......................$79.95All Speedometer sensor lead (700R4); ea .......................... #13678 ........................$8.00All Speedometer sensor lead (4LE60/4LE80); ea .............. #13679 ........................$8.95All Speedometer sensor lead (4L60); ea ............................ #13680 ........................$8.95All Ground splice system; kit .............................................. #13681 ......................$19.95All Steering pump, power w/mini reservoir, V-belt (SB) .... #13682 ....................$424.95All Steering pump, power w/mini reservoir, V-belt (BB) ... #13683 ....................$424.95All Hoses, pwr steering,stnls (GM boxes w/ mini-res) ...... #13684 ....................$149.95All Hoses, pwr steering,stnls (GM boxes w/ remote-res) . #13685 ....................$199.95All Fuel pump, Quiet-Floelectric EFI (80 gph @ 45 psi) .... #13695 ....................$375.95All Fuel pump, Street-Stripelectric EFI (57 gph); ea .......... #13696 ....................$197.95All Regulator, fuel pressure, EFI (35-90 psi); ea ................ #13697 ....................$163.95All Gasket, heat insulator carb base, open bore; ea ......... #13698 ......................$15.95All Gasket, heat insulator carb base, divided bore; ea ..... #13699 ......................$16.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow conv module (std, w/ LT-1).................................................................................................. #13756 .................$1,310.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow conv module (auto, w/ LT-1).................................................................................................. #13757 .................$1,465.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow conversion module (std); ea.................................................................................................. #13758 .................$1,310.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow conversion module (auto); ea.................................................................................................. #13759 .................$1,465.9555-57 Radiator, aluminium crossflow (std, w/ LT-1) ............ #13760 ....................$549.9555-57 Radiator, aluminium crossflow (auto, w/ LT-1) .......... #13761 ....................$719.9555-57 Radiator, aluminum downflow (std, V8 & 6cyl pos) .. #13762 ....................$549.9555-57 Radiator, aluminum down-flow (auto, V8 & 6cyl pos)#13763 ....................$719.9555-57 Radiator, aluminum crossflow (std); ea ..................... #13764 ....................$549.9555-57 Radiator, aluminum crossflow (auto); ea ................... #13765 ....................$719.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow conv module, plshd (see cat) .................................................................................................. #13766 .................$1,490.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow conv module, plshd (see cat).................................................................................................. #13767 .................$1,650.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow conv module, polished (std).................................................................................................. #13768 .................$1,490.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow conv module, polished (auto).................................................................................................. #13769 .................$1,650.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow, polished (std, w/ LT-1) ..... #13770 ....................$789.9555-57 Radiator, alum crossflow, polished (auto, w/ LT-1) ... #13771 ....................$899.9555-57 Radiator, alum downflow, polished (std, V8 & 6cyl pos).................................................................................................. #13772 ....................$789.9555-57 Radiator, alum downflow, polished (auto, V8 & 6cyl pos).................................................................................................. #13773 ....................$899.9555-57 Radiator, aluminum crossflow, polished (std) ........... #13774 ....................$789.9555-57 Radiator, aluminum crossflow, polished (auto) ........ #13775 ....................$899.95All Radiator cap, round style, w/ Be Cool logo; ea ............ #13776 ......................$39.95All Radiator cap, octagon style, w/ Be Cool logo; ea ........ #13777 ......................$39.9555-57 Recovery tank, w/ cap & psngr side inlet, aluminum; ea.................................................................................................. #13778 ....................$319.9555-57 Recovery tank, w/ cap & psngr side inlet, plshd alum.................................................................................................. #13779 ....................$359.9555-57 Recovery tank, w/ cap & driver side inlet, aluminum #13780 ....................$319.9555-57 Recovery tank, w/ cap & driver side inlet, plshd alum.................................................................................................. #13781 ....................$359.95All Fan controller, electric, adjustable, for dual fans ........ #13782 ....................$185.951957 Speaker grille cover, polished billet aluminum; ea ... #13783 ......................$89.9555-56 Bezel, clock delete, polished billet aluminum; ea ..... #13784 ......................$49.5055-56 Dash light w/ bowtie, red (replaces clock); ea ........... #13785 ......................$69.9555-56 Dash light w/ bowtie, blue (replaces clock); ea ......... #13786 ......................$69.9555-56 Dash light w/ bowtie, green (replaces clock); ea ....... #13787 ......................$69.9555-57 Sill plates, polished aluminum (4dr); set ................... #13789 ....................$199.95

Description Part # Price1957 Dash knobs; set ............................................................ #13790 ......................$39.9555-56 Dash trim, w/ panels (for 3-3/8” & 2 1/16” gauges) ... #13791 ....................$299.9555-56 Dash trim, w/ panels (for 3-3/8” & 2 5/8” gauges) ..... #13792 ....................$299.9555-56 Dash trim, w/ lines, plshd aluminum (for CD player) #13793 ....................$139.951957 Dash trim, w/ lines, plshd aluminum (for CD player) #13794 ....................$179.9555-56 Seat frame, Glide, rear(2dr sed); ea ............................ #13848 ....................$379.9555-56 Seat foam, Glide, rear stock style (2dr sed); ea ........ #13849 .................... $114.951957 Seat frame, Glide, rear(2dr sed); ea ............................ #13850 ....................$379.951957 Seat foam, Glide, rear stock style (2dr sed); ea ........ #13851 .................... $114.95All Thermo-Tec Super SonicMat, 12” x 12”, 2 pc; set ....... #13858 ......................$13.95All Thermo-Tec Super SonicMat, 24” x 36”; ea .................. #13859 ......................$24.95All Thermo-Tec Super SonicMat, 36” x 60”; ea .................. #13860 ......................$51.95All Thermo-Tec Suppressor, sound & heat mat, 12” x 12;set ................................................................................................. #13861 ......................$12.95All Thermo-Tec Suppressor, sound & heat mat, 24” x 36”;ea ................................................................................................. #13862 ......................$24.95All Thermo-Tec Suppressor, sound & heat mat, 36” x 60”;ea ................................................................................................. #13863 ......................$47.9555-57 Pitman arm, manual steer; ea ..................................... #13870 ......................$42.95All Ignition control, MSD Blaster; ea .................................. #13871 .................... $113.95All Ignition control, MSD 6A; ea .......................................... #13872 ....................$219.95All Ignition control, MSD 6AL (w/ rev limiter); ea .............. #13873 ....................$280.95All Ign control, MSD Digital-6 (w/ rev & retard limiter) ...... #13874 ....................$375.95All Ignition controller, MSD LS-1/6 (for carb engines) ...... #13875 ....................$305.95All Ignition controller extension harness, MSD LS-1/6 ..... #13876 ....................$180.95All Coil, 45k volts, red, MSD Blaster 2; ea .......................... #13877 ......................$42.95All Coil, 45k volts, w/ wall tower, MSD Blaster 2; ea ......... #13878 ......................$47.95All Coil kit, MSD Blaster 2, w/ ballast resistor, chrome .... #13879 ......................$49.95All Coil, 42k volts, MSD HEI; ea .......................................... #13880 ......................$78.95All Coil bracket, universal, MSD; ea ................................... #13881 ........................$4.95All Coil wire retainer, MSD Blaster; ea ............................... #13882 ......................$15.95All Digital control module, w/ rev limiter, 4 pin, MSD HEI . #13883 ......................$89.95All Digial HEI upgrade kit, MSD Ultimate; kit ..................... #13884 ....................$165.95All Distributor, MSD Pro-Billet HEI; ea ............................... #13885 ....................$409.95All HEI upgrade kit, MSD Extreme output; kit .................... #13886 ....................$320.95All Distributor, ready-to-run, MSD Pro-Billet; ea ............... #13887 ....................$365.95All Distributor, Digitial E-Curve, MSD Pro-Billet; ea .......... #13888 ....................$380.95All Distributor, MSD Street Pro-Billet; ea ........................... #13889 ....................$265.95All Distributor cap & rotor kit, MSD GM HEI; kit ................ #13890 ......................$26.95All Cap & rotor kit, MSD, GM dist 57-74; set ...................... #13891 ......................$21.95All Distributor cap & rotor kit, MSD Extreme HEI .............. #13892 ......................$64.95All Vacuum advance canister, MSD (exc HEI); ea ............. #13893 ......................$10.95All Advance curve kit (MSD distributors) ........................... #13894 ......................$13.95All Magnestic pick-up, MSD (for billet distributors); ea .... #13895 ......................$18.95All Bushing, MSD low resistance HEI; ea .......................... #13896 ......................$10.95All Clamp, distributor hold-down, MSD Billet; ea ............. #13897 ......................$29.95All RPM module kit, 5000 RPM series, MSD ...................... #13898 ......................$29.95All RPM module kit, 6000 RPM series, MSD ...................... #13899 ......................$29.95All Spark plug wires, MSD Heli-Core, blue (V8); set ......... #13900 ......................$66.95All Spark plug wires, 8.5mm, MSD Super Conductor, red (V8) ................................................................................................. #13901 ......................$87.95All Spark plug wires, 8.5mm, MSD Super Conductor, blk (V8) ................................................................................................. #13902 ......................$87.95All Spark plug wire mini stripper-crimper, MSD; ea ......... #13903 ........................$5.95All Ballast resistor, 0.8ohm, MSD; ea ................................. #13904 ........................$6.9555-57 Brake, pwr conv kit, w/lines, Hydroboost, level 3 ..... #13983 ....................$595.9555-57 Brake, pwr conv kit, w/out lines, Hydroboost, level 3 ................................................................................................. #13984 ....................$425.9555-57 Brake, pwr conv kit, w/lines, Hydroboost, level 4 ..... #13985 ....................$645.9555-57 Brake, pwr conv kit, w/out lines, Hydroboost, level 4 ................................................................................................. #13986 ....................$475.9555-57 Sway bar, front, 1-1/8”,Helwig w/ silver vein finish .. #14041 ....................$179.9555-57 Sway bar, rear, 1”, Helwig w/ silver vein finish ......... #14042 ....................$189.9555-57 Seal, liftgate, upper, w/ correct molded end (wgn);ea ................................................................................................. #14150 ......................$59.95

10 (800) 648-4728 • www.danchuk.com

DANCHUK NOW CARRIES A FULL LINE OF STEWART WARNER GAUGES AND ARP FASTENERS.

STEWART WARNER WINGS GAUGESAll Electric, White, 6-Piece ................#14121 ................$395.00/setAll Electric, Black, 6-Piece ................#14122 ................$395.00/setAll Mechanical, White, 6-Piece .........#14123 ................$325.00/setAll Mechanical, Black, 6-Piece .........#14124 ................$325.00/setAll Mechanical, White, 5-Piece .........#14125 ................$285.00/setAll Mechanical, Black, 5-Piece .........#14126 ................$285.00/setAll Electric, White, 5-Piece ................#14127 ................$340.00/setAll Electric, Black, 5-Piece ................#14128 ................$340.00/set

STAINLESS ENGINE AND ACCESSORY FASTENER KITS BY ARP‘87 & newer engines require additional fasteners.All Hex Head, SB ................................#13989 ................$149.95/setAll 12-Point Head, SB ........................#13990 ................$149.95/setAll Hex Head, BB ...............................#13991 ................$169.95/set

DANCHUK’S 2005 - 2006CHEVELLE AND EL CAMINO CATALOG IS HERE!

Tell your Chevelle friends that the new, over 250 page, Danchuk Chevelle and El Camino catalog is now available. With over 700 new parts, this is the most complete Chevelle andEl Camino catalog yet.

CALL 800-854-6911 to order your catalog or order on line at www.danchuk.com


CrosswordDanchuk Tri-5 Crossword

Number 1Difficulty: Easy

1 2 3 4

5 6

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12 13

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15 16

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18 19

20 21

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24 25

Across1. If someone is talking about something on theTri-5's called T-3 they are talking about whatpart of the car?3. The Fuel Injection units on the 57's weremade by what company?7. The 1957 model that had the aluminuminserts on the sides was the ----8. What color was the grill on a 1957 Belairmodel.10. If you had a one piece bumper on your caryou had a ------ bumper.13. What model year of the three was neverreally supposed to be?14. What four letter word brings feelings ofdisgust to Chevy fans?16. What celebrity had a 1957 Chevy built forhim by Georg Barris.18. What was the name of the Chevy dealer inCalifornia that used the picture of a cartoon catin it's advertisements?19. What houses the turn signal lights on a 1957Chevy?

Down2. What option available in 55-57 is very populartoday but hardly ever purchased originally dueto it's cost?4. In 1956 what man was in charge of theredisign for the 1957 model year?5. When Danchuk sells off it's "seconds" theyhave a ------ sale.6. What designation was given to the 1957 150'swith fuel injection?9. What was the entry level model of the Tri-5's?11. There were two types of heater systems inthe Tri-5's. Which one had adjustment levers onthe dash?12. If you had the best radio you could get in the1956 in your car you had a?15. If you had the option that included a fourbarrel carburator and dual exhaust you had the---------- option on your car.17. What is one interior item that sets the Belairmodels apart from the 210 and 150's?19. The 50 millionth Chevy that came off theassembly line was called the ----- car.

Across1. If someone is talking about something on the Tri-5’s called T-3 they are talking about what part of the car?3. The Fuel Injection units on the 57’s were made by what company?7. The 1957 model that had the aluminum inserts on the sides was the ----8. What color was the grill on a 1957 Bel Air model.10. If you had a one piece bumper on your car you had a ------ bumper.13. What model year of the three was never really supposed to be?14. What four letter word brings feelings of disgust to Chevy fans?16. What celebrity had a 1957 Chevy built for him by George Barris.18. What was the name of the Chevy dealer in California that used the picture of a cartoon cat in it’s advertisements?19. What houses the turn signal lights on a 1957 Chevy?20. What was the name used for the station wagon version of the Tri-5’s that was popular with the surfing crowd in California.21. This company started manufacturing parts for Tri-5 Chevro-lets in 1974.24. This option was designed to dim your brights when encoun-tering another car coming towards you on the road.25. Danchuk makes a Bel Air badge in what finish that is not original?

Down2. What option available in 55-57 is very popular today but hardly ever purchased originally due to it’s cost?4. In 1956 what man was in charge of the redesign for the 1957 model year?5. When Danchuk sells off it’s “seconds” they have a ------ sale.6. What designation was given to the 1957 150’s with fuel injec-tion?9. What was the entry-level model of the Tri-5’s?11. There were two types of heater systems in the Tri-5’s. Which one had adjustment levers on the dash?12. If you had the best radio you could get in the 1956 in your car you had a?15. If you had the option that included a four barrel carburetor and dual exhaust you had the ---------- option on your car.17. What is one interior item that sets the Bel Air models apart from the 210 and 150’s?19. The 50 millionth Chevy that came off the assembly line was called the ----- car.22. On the 1956 and 1957 models what piece of trim let you know the car was equipped with a V-8 engine?23. The substance used to repair bodies and smooth them out for painting in the 50’s was called?

CROSSWORD PUZZLE

Answers on page 15.

12 (800) 648-4728 • www.danchuk.com

Question: I am in the process of rebuilding the generator on my 57 Chevy and have a couple of questions regarding the fi nished look. 1) Should the main body be fi nished in gloss or satin black? 2) Should the front pulley be painted or nickel-plated? 3) Should the top of the dipstick for the power steering be painted or nickel?

Answer: According to the Judging Manual, the generator is semi gloss black as is the pulley, but the generator end plates are natural. The power steering pump assembly, which bolts to the generator, is also semi gloss black and the dipstick cover is cad plated.

Question:I have just fi nished installing a new suspension kit with new control arm bushings and new ball joints. My question is: What torque do I use to tighten down the castle nut on the stud ends of the new ball joints? What about the bolts that now hold the ball joints into the control arms? My vehicle is a 1957 Chevy Bel Air

Answer: The shop manual only says, “Tighten the nut securely and install the cotter pin”, however the stud/nut size would allow for up to 70 ft. pounds or so. Take it between 50 to 70 depending where the cotter pin hole lines up. 10-12 ft. pounds would be the correct torque for the 5/16 bolts that hold the ball joint to the control arm.

Question: I am currently restoring a 1957 Belair 2 door hardtop, which was built in Los Angeles, and had a question concerning the emissions systems. I know that basically the only emissions systems for the 57 model year were the heat riser valve and a draft tube, however my carburetor (WCFB) is equipped with a pcv valve attached to an adaptor instead of the draft tube. Also, the oil fi ll cap has an adaptor and a vapor hose leading to a fi tting that has been installed in the air cleaner. My question is that since this is a California car, were there emissions laws in 1957 or sometime thereafter requiring the use of a PCV valve system instead of the traditional draft tube? Any help would be much appreciated as I am wondering if I should restore the car with or without the present set up.

Answer: Starting in the mid 60’s California started passing laws regarding emissions on new and older vehicles. In response to these laws several companies, AC/DELCO, Echlin and others developed NOX devices that were retrofi tted to the cars, especially in the LA basin. LA smog was the worst in those days and something had to be done. A PCV valve was installed as well as a closed oil cap with a hose attachment that went to the air cleaner. The crankcase would vent through the cap and the PCV and the gasses put out would be burned instead of going out into the open air. Some devices also had a fi tting that went into the upper radiator hose that would restrict vacuum to the distributor advance when the car was cold. Since this is an original restoration, and these were add on devices your car is no longer required to have, I would leave them out and reinstall the road draft tube.

If you have a 55-57 tech question that you would like to see answered in this forum send your question to:

Update Tech c/o Bill Roche3201 S. Standard AvenueSanta Ana, CA 92705

Or email to [email protected]

You can also get fast answers to your questions by posting them in the Tech Question forum in the “Garage” on our website.

EVERY GOOD QUESTION DESERVES A GOOD ANSWER!!

Q & A


HERE’S A BEAUTY FOR YOU!“The Double Huffer”

The feature car for our first newsletter of 2006 is a ʻ56 2 Dr. Hardtop owned by Darwin and Janice Groesbeck of River-side, California and it is a real beauty. Flawless Black paint with one of the coolest flame jobs we have seen in a while is just what you notice at first. Get looking a little closer and you notice all kinds of subtle things that really make this car stand out. The stock 3 piece front bumper was turned upside down, shortened, had the edges re-shaped and the seams welded to provide a better fit and give the illusion of being closer to the ground. The rear bumper was taken from a ʻ56 Nomad. The grill and park-ing lights are from a 54 Chevy that was shortened to fit the re-worked stock opening. The hood and trunk lid are nosed and decked retaining only the original Vʼs at each end for a clean look. The drip rails have been removed and contoured to match the flippers. The floor has been replaced with custom hand formed sheet metal that has a different contour and a custom steel center console was hand formed to house the wiring and air vents that run the length of the interior. The roof of the car incorporates a ʼ58 Impala roof vent that has been turned into a third brake light and the rear wheel wells were tubbed to accommodate the 17” x 7” front and 18” x 11” rear wheels.

And that is just the beginning. The car runs on a Jim Meyer chassis with a 4 bar rear suspension and tubu-lar A-Arms in front with rack and pinion steering. 11” inch front brakes and Explorer rear drums stop this bad boy that rides on coil over springs and shocks. The rear end is a Ford 9” with 3:70 gears and Dutchman 31 spline axles. Powering this beauty is a twin Paxton blown 502 with a modified Paxton Air Box and a single Holley 850. Darwin added a nitrous system because he just didnʼt feel the double blown 502 would be enough

for those long trips to the car shows. All this power runs through a modified 4L80E transmission and the exhaust flows through Dougʼs Headers and Flowmaster mufflers. Even with all this power, Darwin and Jan-ice decided that the car needed to be comfortable so the interior features custom bucket seats in black and gray leather, air conditioning, power windows and a knock your socks off sound system all controlled from a custom center console. All this and a custom dash featuring VDO Millennium gauges make this one killer ʼ56. We thought that since this is the 50th Anniversary of the 1956 Chevy our first feature car for 2006 should be a ʻ56...but we wonder...is this what Harley Earl had in mind? Who Cares!!!!

Photos by Mike Harrington

14 (800) 648-4728 • www.danchuk.com

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Across 1.Headlights 3.Rochester 7. Belair 8. Gold 10. California 13.NineteeFiftySeven 14. Ford 16. RingoStarr 18.Felix 19. Grillebar 20.Nomad 21.Danchuk 24. Autroniceye 25.Chrome

Down 2. Airconditioning 4. HarleyEarl 5. Blem 6.BlackWidow 9. Onefifty 11.Deluxe 12. Wonderbar 15. Powerpack 17. Dashtrim 19. Gold 22. Vee 23. Lead Crosswor Puzzle Answers


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SANTA ANA, CA 92705

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MARCH EVENT LOCATION CITY & STATE 3--4-5 26TH ANNUAL MDA CAR SHOW CIVIC CENTER ROANOKE,VA 10-11-12 22ND ANNUAL SHOW PALMETTO EXPO CENTER GREENVILLE, SC 17-25-26 RIVER RUN AUTO SHOW VICKSBURG OUTLETS VICKSBURG, MS 24-25-26 SPRING DAYTONA TBA TBA

REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS - Danchuk Letters/News_12.1... · REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER...

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Transcript of REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS - Danchuk Letters/News_12.1... · REBUILDING UPPER AND LOWER...