Reactive Exhaust Dyeing

Textile Chemicals

Drimaren® HF/CL reactive dyesExhaust Dyeing procedures

Textile Chemicals


Table of contents

1. Introduction 2

2. General information 3

2.1 Commercial forms 3

2.2 Pretreatment 3

2.3 Dissolving of the dyes 3

3. Exhaust process 3

3.1 Technical aspects influencing dyeing 3

3.1.1 Addition of salt 3

3.1.2 Addition of alkali 4

3.1.3 Works water 4

3.1.4 Antifoams 4

3.1.5 Lubricants 4

3.1.6 Leveling agents 4

3.1.7 Liquor ratio 4

3.2 After-treatment 5

3.2.1 Sampling and shading 5

3.2.2 Rinsing and soaping 5

3.2.3 Cationic after-treatment 5

3.2.4 Stripping methods and effects 5

3.3 Dyeing processes 6

3.3.1 Dye selection 6

3.3.2 Amounts of salt and alkali 7

3.3.3 Cellulose 7

3.3.3.1 Isothermal process at 60 °C (standard process) 7

3.3.3.2 Process at 40/60 °C 8

3.3.3.3 Migration process at 80/60 °C 8

3.3.3.4 Jig process 9

3.3.3.5 Pad jig process 9

3.3.3.6 Garment dyeing 9

3.3.3.7 Isothermal process at 80 °C for phthalocyanine dyes 10

3.3.4 Polyester/Cellulose 10

3.3.4.1 SWIFT process 10

3.3.5 Cellulose/Polyamide 11

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1. Introduction

The Drimaren® HF/CL dyes are recommended for dyeing all types of

cellulosic fibers by the exhaust process.

On the basis of their reactivity the Drimaren® HF/CL dyes are

classified as warm dyeing reactive dyes. Depending on the type

and amount of alkali applied the complete dye/fiber reaction takes

place optimally at 60 °C. In this temperature region the Drimaren®

HF/CL dyes are distinguished by good penetration and migration

behavior. Their combinability is excellent by virtue of their balanced

dyeing and fixation properties.

Drimaren® Turquoise K-2B can be applied by the same dyeing

process recommended for Drimaren® Turquoise CL-B and

Drimaren® Green HF-5BL and maybe included in the range for

dyeing brilliant green and turquoise shades. An isothermal method

at 80 °C is recommended. The alkali and salt requirements remain

the same.

The Drimaren® HF/CL dyes can be applied by the exhaust method in

all the usual dyeing machines such as jets, winches, jigs, package,

beam, garment and yarn dyeing machines.

The dyeing process and metering of the dye bath auxiliaries

depends on the: ■ Type and form of the substrate ■ Type of machine, machine capacity, dye and shade depth ■ Economic considerations

Their distinguishing properties under the suffix HF are: ■ They are the most ecological products among the Drimaren®

ranges ■ AOX-free ■ Heavy metal free with the exception of Drimaren® Blue HF-RL

and Drimaren® Green HF-5BL ■ Minimal coloration of the wastewater ■ Highest fixation values among the Drimaren® ranges ■ Very good washing off properties ■ High fastness level

Their distinguishing properties under the suffix CL are: ■ Economic ternary combinations for medium to deep shades ■ AOX-free ■ Good washing off properties

Their distinguishing properties of the combined Drimaren® HF/CL

dyes are: ■ Generally very good oxidative bleach fastness properties ■ Suitable for all exhaust dyeing processes ■ High fastness level ■ Very good reproducibility ■ Good shade build-up ■ High lightfast trichromy for difficult pale to medium shades ■ Combine economy and performance

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2. General information

2.1 Commercial forms

HF/CL dyes are available in one or more of the following

commercial forms: ■ In liquid form ■ Powder ■ Granules ■ CDG (Cold Dissolving Granules)

2.2 Pretreatment

Optimum pretreatment of the substrate is one of the most important

fundamentals for obtaining perfect dyeing results with regard to

levelness and appearance of the fabric, etc. A neutral reaction of

the substrate to be dyed is necessary, which means that care must

be taken to eliminate acid, alkali and peroxide residues.

2.3 Dissolving of the dyes

When dissolving the dyes it should be considered that there are

different commercial forms. There is a fundamental difference

between granules (which include the CDG formulation) and powder.

Some products are specially designated as CDG.

Granules should never be pasted but sprinkled into water. For the

CDG form the water can be cold (20–30 °C). For other forms it is

better to use water at 60–80 °C. This is also true for the powder

products. Mixtures of different commercial forms should always be

dissolved at higher temperature (> 60 °C) by sprinkling them into

water.

Before adding dissolved dyes to the feed tank the dye liquor should

be passed through a filter to ensure that any non-dissolved dye or

contamination is held back. Unlevelness and/or spots and possible

damage to the pumps can be avoided in this way.

Cold water should then be used to adjust the dye liquor to the

required volume.

3. Exhaust process

3.1 Technical aspects influencing dyeing

3.1.1 Addition of salt

The recommended amounts of common or Glauber’s salt are shown

in this shade card text under 3.3.2 “Amounts of salt and alkali”. The

“electronic shade card” for Drimaren dyes is available for

calculating the optimum amount of salt required.

As a rule the salt is added at the beginning so as to achieve shorter

processing times. In critical cases the risk of unlevelness can be

avoided by adding the dye first, before dosing the salt. This is

particularly recommended for high substantivity Drimaren® dyes

which are sensitive to electrolytes and for dyeing regenerated

cellulose and mercerized cotton.

Depending on its origin, salt may contain large amounts of

impurities which have a negative effect on the dyeing. Softening

with a sequestering agent may not be sufficient to remove all the

impurities and this may lead to a loss of color yield and

precipitations. In such cases a better quality of salt should be used.

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3.1.2 Addition of alkali

Soda ash or a combination of soda ash/caustic soda is the

recommended alkali for fixation of Drimaren® HF/CL dyes. The alkali

is metered into the dye bath or added in several portions. The

optimum bath pH for fixation is 10.5–11.

The recommended amounts of alkali are shown in this shade card

text under 3.3.2 “Amounts of salt and alkali”. The “electronic shade

card” for Drimaren® dyes is available for calculating the optimum

amount of alkali required.

3.1.3 Works water

The processing water should be soft (≤ 4 °dH), neutral (pH 7) and

free from chlorine.

During fixation, in the alkaline medium, any earth alkalis present in

hard water could precipitate and deposit on the goods being dyed.

Removal of earth alkalis requires an acid treatment, preferably with

an addition of Sirrix® 2UD liq or Sirrix® DNA liq

If only hard water is available it is advisable to add a sequestering

agent such as Ladiquest® 2005 liq c.

3.1.4 Antifoams

Undesired foaming may occur, which can have a negative effect on

the levelness. The type of dyeing machine, in particular those

running at high speed and with high turbulence, can influence the

amount of foam generated. The dyes and dyeing chemicals used or

residual detergents from the pretreatment also have an influence

on foaming. This problem can be avoided by slowly adding 0.1–0.5 g/l

Antimussol® SFE liq (silicone-free) in the pre-diluted form.

3.1.5 Lubricants

When treating sensitive piece goods in rope form, especially in

short liquor machines or machines with high friction, where the

goods are subjected to high speed and compression, creasing and

abrasion may occur. An addition of 0.5–1 g/l Imacol® C3G liq to

prevent fiber-fiber and fiber-metal friction is advisable in such cases.

3.1.6 Leveling agents

For critical shades, unfavorable machine conditions or if the

solubility of the dyes is in the critical region, it is advisable to add

1–2 g/l Drimagen® E3R liq to the dye bath. When Drimagen® E3R liq

is applied it is necessary to increase the amount of alkali,

necessary for fixation, by ~30–50%. Drimagen® E3R liq improves

distribution of the dyes, ensures a uniform increase of the pH

during addition of the alkali and complexes any hardness forming

salts in the dye bath without de-metalizing the dyes. Detailed

information is given in the technical information bulletin on

Drimagen® E3R liq

3.1.7 Liquor ratio

The substantivity, degree of exhaustion and final fixation are higher

at shorter liquor ratios. This obviously has economic advantages

through savings of dye, salt, energy and water.

Severe deviations in the liquor ratio can have a negative influence

on shade reproducibility which is why it is advisable to control the

liquor ratio during dyeing. The liquor ratio can be calculated using a

level gauge on the machine, a flow meter at the water inlet, or by

measuring the specific gravity of the liquor after the salt addition.

The influence of the liquor ratio can be calculated using the

“electronic shade card”.

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3.2 After-treatment

3.2.1 Sampling and shading

As a rule, it is advisable to correct the shade in a fresh bath. If

shading is carried out in the existing dye bath, by draining half the

dye liquor and replacing it with fresh water, there is a danger of

unlevelness and dye hydrolysis. With large differences in shade,

the desired shade should be matched in the lab and re-dyeing

carried out in a fresh bath.

3.2.2 Rinsing and soaping

To achieve optimum wash and wet fastness properties unfixed

hydrolyzed dye must be completely removed from the fiber.

Thorough rinsing out of the electrolyte before soaping is essential.

Any electrolyte remaining in the soaping bath will impair washing

off of the unfixed dye.

Working methodIf possible, the rinsing process should be carried out with soft

warm and then hot water. If only hard water is available, add 0.5–3

g/l Ladiquest® 2005 liq. conc. or Ladipur® RSK/R3C liq. to the rinsing

bath. To improve washing off efficiency, the soaping stage should

contain 0.5–3 g/l Ladiquest® 2005 liq. conc. or Ladipur® RSK/R3C liq.

Rinsing baths on jet, winch and circulation machines (example):

10 min at 50 °C.

10 min at 50 °C + Sirrix® NE liq (neutralize to pH 6–7)

15 min at 95 °C + 0.5–3 g/l Ladipur® RSK/R3C liq.

10 min at 70 °C

10 min cold rinse

Rinsing ends on the jig:

2 ends at 50 °C

2 ends at 50 °C + Sirrix® NE liq (neutralize to pH 6–7)

2–4 ends at 95 °C + 0.5–3 g/l Ladipur® RSK/R3C liq.

2 ends at 70 °C

1 end cold rinse

These are general guidelines. The following parameters can have a

negative effect on the washing off behavior of reactive dyes: ■ The substantivity of the hydrolyzed dye ■ High amounts of salt remaining from dyeing dark shades ■ Hard water used for rinsing and soaping

If any of the above factors are present then the number of rinsing

baths must be increased and/or an additional soaping process

carried out to ensure the required fastness level is achieved.

3.2.3 Cationic after-treatment

Under unfavorable washing off conditions, i.e. if perfect removal of

the hydrolyzed dye is not guaranteed, the fastness properties can

be improved by an after-treatment with a cationic fixative.

After-treatment possibilities by the exhaust method are, e.g.:0.5–4 % Optifix® EC liq or 1–4 % Optifix® RSL liq

20 min at 40 °C

A cationic after-treatment can result in a change of shade and a

reduction in the light fastness (the best results are achieved with

Optifix® RSL liq).

3.2.4 Stripping methods and effects

Faulty dyeing’s with Drimaren® HF/CL dyes can be stripped by

reduction or oxidation depending on the desired effect. Using the

methods described below, dyeing’s can be partially or completely

stripped. Dyeing’s at 1/1 standard depth (SD), at 1/3 SD for the

turquoise and brilliant green dyes and additionally 3/1 SD for navy

and 4/1 SD for black dyes, were prepared on bleached cotton

interlock. The stripping effects attainable by each method were

assessed.

To avoid catalytic fiber damage when stripping faulty dyeing’s with

metal complex dyes it is advisable to add a sequestering agent

such as Sirrix® AK liq to the stripping bath.

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Stripping methods

1. 3 g/l Available chlorine (sodium hypochlorite),

pH 10–11 with caustic soda,

60 min at 25 °C,

antichlor treatment with 1 g/l sodium bisulfite,

10 min at 30 °C,

rinse cold

2. 10 ml/l Caustic soda 36 °Bè,

5 g/l Sodium hydrosulfite,

heat within 15 min from 60 °C to 90 °C,

60 min at 90 °C,

rinse warm and cold

3. 5 g/l Arostit® BLN powder,

heat within 15 min from 60 °C to 90 °C,

60 min at 90 °C,

rinse warm and cold

The stripping methods can also be combined as follows:

4. First Method 1, without sodium bisulfite treatment,

then Method 2

5. First Method 2 then Method 1

3.3 Dyeing processes

3.3.1 Dye selection

Standard combination for highest reproducibility in pale to medium

shades: ■ Drimaren® Yellow CL-2R ■ Drimaren® Red CL-5B ■ Drimaren® Blue HF-RL

For highest reproducibility in pale to medium shades requiring high

light fastness: ■ Drimaren® Golden Yellow HF-CD (non-photochromic element) ■ Drimaren® Orange HF-2GL (non-photochromic element) ■ Drimaren® Red HF-6BL ■ Drimaren® Blue HF-RL

Standard selection for medium to dark shades combining high

performance and cost effectiveness: ■ Drimaren® Golden Yellow HF-CD (non-photochromic element) ■ Drimaren® Yellow CL-2R ■ Drimaren® Red HF-3B ■ Drimaren® Dark Red HF-CD ■ Drimaren® Red CL-4B ■ Drimaren® Blue HF-2B ■ Drimaren® Navy HF-GN ■ Drimaren® Navy HF-B ■ Drimaren® Black CL-S

If a dye is applied at a particularly low concentration it can be

replaced by the corresponding lightfast element to improve the

light fastness properties.

Special elements for bright yellow, blue, green and turquoise

shades: ■ Drimaren® Brilliant Yellow HF-RL / Drimaren Yellow CL-3G ■ Drimaren® Turquoise CL-B ■ Drimaren® Turquoise K-2B ■ Drimaren® Blue CL-BR ■ Drimaren® Green HF-5BL

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3.3.2 Amounts of salt and alkali

Soda ash

Drimaren® HF/CL dye % < 0.5 0.5–1 1–1.5 1.5–2 2–3 > 3

Common or Glauber’s salt g/l 20–50 60 65 70 80 80

Soda ash g/l 5 10 15 18 20 20

Fixation Time min 50 55 60 60 60 60

Soda ash/caustic soda

Drimaren® HF/CL dye % < 0.5 0.5–1 1–1.5 1.5–2 2–3 > 3

Common or Glauber’s salt g/l 20–50 60 65 70 80 80

Soda ash g/l 5 5 5 5 5 5

NaOH 36 °Bè ml/l – 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.25 2.5

Fixation Time min 50 55 60 60 60 60

Glauber’s salt is recommended for Drimaren® Orange CL-3R,

Drimaren® Scarlet HF-3G, Drimaren® Turquoise CL-B, Drimaren®

Turquoise K-2B and Drimaren® Green HF-5BL.

The electrolyte and alkali amounts given for Drimaren® HF/CL in

tables 3.3.2 can be used for Drimaren® Turquoise K-2B.

In the soda ash/caustic soda method, the soda ash is added first

followed by progressive dosing of the caustic soda.

Precise information is given in the “electronic shade card”.

3.3.3 Cellulose

3.3.3.1 Isothermal process at 60 °C (standard process)

For all Drimaren® HF/CL dyes

For knitted and woven fabrics, yarn and loose stock material

Dye bath additions

A = x g/l Salt

0.5–1 g/l Imacol® C2G liq

0.5–3 g/l Ladiquest® 2005 liq c

0.5–3 g/l Humectol® C liq hc

B = y % Drimaren® HF/CL dye (linear metering)

C = z g/l Alkali (progressive metering)

The amount of salt and alkali used should be according to the

information given in section 3.3.2 “Amounts of salt and alkali”

or in the “electronic shade card”.

The “Isothermal process at 80 °C for phthalocyanine dyes”,

described in section 3.3.3.7, is recommended for Drimaren®

Turquoise CL-B, Drimaren® Turquoise K-2B and Drimaren®

Green HF-5BL.

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90

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70

60

50

40

30

20

°C

0 20 60 100 160 220 26040 80 140 200120 180 240 280

A B C

Isothermal process at 60 °C (standard process)

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3.3.3.2 Process at 40/60 °C



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20

°C

0 20 60 100 160 220 26040 80 140 200120 180 240 280

A C

Process at 40/60 °C

Dye bath additions

A = x g/l Salt







information given in section 3.3.2 “Amounts of salt and alkali” or in

the “electronic shade card”.



Turquoise CL-B, Drimaren® Turquoise K-2B and Drimaren® Green HF-

5BL.

3.3.3.3 Migration process at 80/60 °C


Especially recommended for regenerated cellulose and garment

dyeing


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20

°C

0 20 60 100 160 220 26040 80 140 200120 180 240 280

B

Migration process at 80/60 °C

Dye bath additions

A = x g/l Salt




3 g/l Revatol® NS liq c









Green HF-5BL.

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3.3.3.4 Jig process

Process for all Drimaren® HF/CL dyes

Dyeing temperature 60 °C (corresponds to the fixation temperature

on the goods).

Dry goods should be run into water containing 1 g/l Leonil® EHC liq c.

Dye bath additions

x % Drimaren® HF/CL dye

0.5-1 g/l Imacol® C3G liq

0.5-3 g/l Ladiquest® 2005 liq c

0.5-3 g/l Humectol® C liq hc

y g/l Salt

z g/l Alkali

1. end ½ amount dye + dyeing auxiliary’s 6. end ¼ amount salt

2. end ½ amount dye + dyeing auxiliary’s 7. end ¼ amount alkali

3. end ¼ amount salt 8. end ¼ amount alkali



Fixation: The number of ends depends on the depth of shade, but

should correspond to 30–60 min.







Green HF-5BL.

3.3.3.5 Pad jig process

If the Drimaren® HF/CL dyes are applied by padding it is possible

to save up to 10 ends on the jig.

Dye bath additions

Padding: x g/l Drimaren® HF/CL dye

0,5–3,0 g/l Leonil® EHC liq c

Jig bath: 50–100 ml/l Pad liquor

y g/l Salt



z g/l Soda ash

Fixation: The number of ends depends on the depth of shade, but

should correspond to 30–60 min.







Green HF-5BL.

3.3.3.6 Garment dyeing

The dyeing of ready made-up articles of knit or woven fabric is an

alternative to conventional piece dyeing.

The entire range of shades can be covered with the Drimaren® HF/

CL dyes. Thanks to the simple dyeing method and their good washing

off properties, Drimaren® HF/CL dyes are highly recommended for

dyeing garments. To ensure good penetration of thick seams and

heavy articles, the migration process at 80/60 °C is recommended.







Green HF-5BL.

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3.3.3.7 Isothermal process at 80 °C for phthalocyanine dyes

This process is especially recommended for phthalocyanine dyes,

Drimaren® Turquoise CL-B, Drimaren® Turquoise K-2B and

Drimaren® Green HF-5BL.


Dye bath additions

A = x g/l Glauber’s salt




3 g/l Revatol® NS liq c

1–2 g/l Drimagen E3R liq

B = y % Drimaren® dye (linear metering)


Glauber’s salt is recommended. The amount of salt and alkali used

should be according to the information given in section 3.3.2

“Amounts of salt and alkali” or in the “electronic shade card”.

When Drimagen E3R liq is applied it is necessary to increase the

amount of alkali, necessary for fixation, by ~30–50%.

3.3.4 Polyester/Cellulose

3.3.4.1 SWIFT process

The SWIFT process is for dyeing PES/CEL blends in the shortest

time, where high wet fastness is achieved without a reduction

clearing step, saving water, energy and total processing cost.

Dyestuff selection CELDrimaren® HF dyes: A range of reactive dyes distinguished by their

high degree of fixation, easy washing off and excellent fastness

level.

Dyestuff selection PESForon® S-WF dyes: A range of alkali clearable dyes with high

sublimation and wet fastness properties.

Dye bath additions

A: Chemicals: 0.25–1.5 g/l Lyocol® RDN liq

0.2 % Eganal® PS liq

0.5–2 g/l Imacol® MPE liq

0.5–2 g/l Opticid® PSD liq c

pH 5.5

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°C

0 15 45 75 12030 60 10590 255 285270135 165 195 240150 180 225210

AB C D F GE

SWIFT process

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°C

0 20 60 100 160 220 26040 80 140 200120 180 240 280

A B C

Isothermal process at 80 °C for phthalocyanine dyes

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B: Foron® S-WF dye

C: Chemicals: 0.8 % Imerol® JSF liq

1.5 % Sirrix® SB liq

4.0 % H2O2 35%

1.0 % NaOH 36 ° Bè

D: Glauber’s salt

E: Chemicals: 0.4 % Bactosol® SAP liq

1.0 % Imacol® MPE liq

F: Drimaren® HF dye (linear metering)

G: Alkali (progressive metering)

3.3.5 Cellulose/Polyamide

2 bath dyeing process for cellulose/polyamide blends


1st bath

Dye bath additions

A = x g/l Salt












Green HF-5BL.

2nd bath

Dye bath additions

D = 1.0–2.0 g/l sodium acetate cryst

0.5–2.0 % Lyogen® CN liq

0.5–3.0 % Lyogen® NH liq

x % Nylosan®/Lanasyn® dye

E = y % Acetic acid to pH 4.5–5.0

After-treatment of the polyamide dyeing:

The recommendations for the after-treatment of polyamide dyeings

dyeing’s can be found in the polyamide shade card.

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°C

0 20 60 100 160 220 26040 80 140 200120 180 240 280 340320300

A B C D E

Dyeing process

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Switzerland

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This information corresponds to the present state of our knowledge and is intended as a general description of our products and their possible applications. Clariant makes no warranties, express or implied, as to the information’s accuracy, adequacy, sufficiency or freedom from defect and assumes no liability in connection with any use of this information. Any user of this product is responsible for determining the suitability of Clariant’s products for its particular application.* Nothing included in this information waives any of Clariant’s General Terms and Conditions of Sale, which control unless it agrees otherwise in writing. Any existing intellectual/industrial property rights must be observed. Due to possible changes in our products and applicable national and international regulations and laws, the status of our products could change. Material Safety Data Sheets providing safety precautions, that should be observed when handling or storing Clariant products, are available upon request and are provided in compliance with applicable law. You should obtain and review the applicable Material Safety Data Sheet information before handling any of these products. For additional information, please contact Clariant.

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Reactive Exhaust Dyeing

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