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INSIDER

9 Championing Clarks Why veteran

exec Gary Champion returned to the

brand and what he plans to tackle first.

12 FN Spy The songs that are inspiring

top designers this spring, and Tory Burch

gets sporty.

14 Think Piece Neal Newman sounds

off on why Footwear Cares is so critical to

Two Ten’s mission.

15 What’s Trending A wave of retail

bankruptcies is ripping across the

industry, and Nike dominates the court.

16 Special Delivery Why brands are

turning to Uber, Postmates and other

delivery services to cater to consumers.

FEATURES

17 Big Plans Workboot brands have

engineered a tough-as-nails selection

for fall ’16.

THE LIST

25 Shoe of the Week Get a grip this

fall with Hanwag’s Grünten Winter

heritage hiker.

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38The newest arrivals in Material ConneXion’s New York library.

ON THE COVER

Photographed by CLAIRE BENOIST

STAFF ANNOUNCEMENT Charlie Carballo has joined Footwear News as

West Coast Digital Editor. He will be FN’s go-to

on the West Coast, covering stories across all

beats, as well as attending events, previews and

launches. Prior to joining FN, Carballo held digital

positions at Connection III Entertainment, Daily

Mail Online, iHeartMedia and the New York Post.

26 Burning Question Which initiatives

by the new president would boost work-

boot sales?

28 Good Taste Top chef Anne Burrell

dishes on her favorite things inside and

outside the kitchen.

29 Hazard Ready How Shoes for Crews

keeps the restaurant industry safe.

30 Five Questions Blundstone’s chief on

finding a work-life(style) balance for the

brand.

31 Sterling Job Duty brands are mining

the metallic trend this season.

33 A Boulder Look What climbing buffs

wear to scale the walls in Brooklyn.

34 Five Questions Bogs’ CEO teases the

brand’s hot new technology initiative.

36 Rebooting History Will Sporto’s

high-performance duck boots call to the

male consumer?

38 Material Benefits Step inside the

international library that gives designers a

feel for the future.

40 Lasting Fit How Jones & Vining is

crafting the next stage of its business.

FN PICK

42 Talking Shop Nicki Minaj dons

Louboutin knee-high sandals for Ellen visit.

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KANYE WEST WEARS NEW YEEZY BOOST 350 AT LACMAIt’s no secret that Jenner and Kardashian family members visited the Los Angeles County Museum of Art last weekend — it was all over their Snapchat and Instagram accounts. A photo on Kendall Jenner’s Snapchat showed Kanye West wearing unreleased black Yeezy Boost 350s with a white stripe on the side, prompting many to wonder when this pair will drop.

COLOR-BLOCKED SHOES TO LIVEN UP YOUR SPRING WARDROBE Time to put away those winter shoes. Color-blocking is a major trend

for spring ’16, but it’s not for the faint of heart. From designer heels to

sneakers, this season it’s all about bold, clashing colors. We highlighted

top picks from Marc Jacobs, Vans, Nicholas Kirkwood and more.

2016 IHEARTRADIO MUSIC AWARDSRED-CARPET SHOESMusic’s hottest stars hit the red carpet in Los Angeles for the 2016

iHeartRadio Music Awards. Taylor Swift and Selena Gomez gave us a

lesson in how to pair a sexy jumpsuit with sleek sandals, while Zendaya

showed how to make runway-to-red-carpet work in her head-to-toe

Haider Ackermann ensemble.

10 MUST-HAVE SAINT LAURENT SHOES BY HEDI SLIMANE

Hedi Slimane’s exit from Saint

Laurent was the news that rocked the

fashion world last week. With Anthony

Vaccarello set to take over, it’s time to

stock up on Slimane-designed

footwear before it’s no more. We’re

talking platform sandals, studded

motorcycle boots and the celeb-

favored Hedi 30 suede boot.

ADIDAS UNVEILS NMD_R1 PRIMEKNIT CAMO PACK Adidas is keeping the momentum strong when it comes to the NMD_R1

silhouette. Fans were awaiting the April 9 international rollout of the

next iteration of the popular kicks, which feature a camoufl age

Primeknit upper and are available in orange, blue, white and olive green.

They’ll arrive this summer in the U.S.

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The most-read stories on Footwearnews.com last week.

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I N S I D E R

Can Gary Champion put the spark back in a challenged Clarks brand with a fresh approach?

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

ary Champion is happy to be home.After exiting Clarks Americas

in 2008, the 25-year veteran of the brand is back again — this time as president.

The management team at the U.K.-based parent company C&J Clark Limited came knock-ing on Champion’s door after its U.S. business began losing market share due to executive turn-over, delivery issues and a lack of fresh product.

“Clarks Americas has struggled over the past three years,” said Champion, who has made rebuilding relationships with independent retailers a top priority. “The company did a nice job with [bigger accounts] but forgot about the independents, the guys that had set the brand’s image with premium product and [embody] what Clarks is really about.”

Champion, who most recently served as president of Earth Inc., replaced Geralyn Breig, who left the company early this year. In the U.K., a search is underway for a CEO to replace Melissa Potter, who departed last September. Until then, board chairman Thomas O’Neill is serving in an executive capacity.

“Clarks Americas is a significant portion of the global Clarks business, and we have high expectations for the near and long-term development of the region,” said O’Neill. “We are very excited that his leadership will guide the Americas region to its next stage of growth.”

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Championing Clarks

Family-owned Clarks has been producing shoes since 1825. 10

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Retailers cheered the news of Champion’s return. David Astobiza, president of the Sole Desire chain in Santa Rosa, Calif., said he is looking forward to Cham-pion getting the brand back on track. “Clarks had built a business on independents, relationships and great product, but got away from it a bit,” Astobiza said. “Gary will bring excitement back to the culture of the company.”

Rick Ravel, owner of Karavel Shoes in Austin, Texas, said that Champion should take a hard look at product. “Clarks recognized that what sells around the world isn’t what necessarily sells in the U.S.,” he said. “Going forward, product needs to be fresh for the American market.”

Here, Champion talks about reconnecting with the Clarks team and the road ahead.

There’s been a lot of industry chat-

ter regarding the turnover in Clarks’

management team. How has that

affected company morale?

GC: It’s had an effect. Constant

change will do that to anybody. [Go-

ing forward], it’s about rebuilding ex-

citement and trust. Employees know

me, and how I treat and respect

people. And it doesn’t stop inside the

company. That’s why I got the recep-

tion I did [when I returned]. When

we were [originally] building the

business, it was [exciting].

Everybody shared the vision and un-

derstood the strategy. Now it’s about

everybody understanding what we’re

trying to accomplish and working

toward that goal. It’s about taking

advantage of what the global team

can offer the Americas in marketing,

sourcing and planning. The people

[to do this] are now in place and can

make it happen.

What did you miss most about Clarks

while you were away?

GC: The people. We went from a 20-person office to a

400-person office, with thousands in the field in retail stores.

We built that team. It was fun to have a successful business

with a great culture. However, I learned from my last eight

years at Earth Inc. about building a brand [Earthies] from

zero — getting your hands around it, [developing] great

product and thinking about all the avenues for it to be

successful.

What are among you first initiatives?

GC: We have to fix shipping, which caused havoc on our

delivery time to retailers. Next is rebuilding the culture. When

we were [originally] building the business, it was about every-

body sharing the vision and understanding the strategy. Some

of that was lost in the [recent] organizational transition from

the U.S. working alone to England running things, to it now

coming back to the middle.

How important is it for the brand to have a global identity?

GC: We should look at synergies like pulling our sourcing,

supply chain and planning together to get the best you can out

of economy of scale. We need to start making stores look alike

globally. When tourists come to America or shop a Clarks store

in Germany, the DNA should be the same. That’s where we

missed the boat during my first tenure.

What role will the Americas now play in product?

GC: The region [North America and Latin America] is about

70 percent of the company’s wholesale business. The global

team [decided] since the region is so strong, it should be

the epicenter for building a wholesale product line. So our

development people, designers [and] line managers all reside

in the States. Now, the Asia-Pacific and European team will

be buying out of our wholesale line. We [therefore] have to be

sensitive to the needs of their markets as well.

Tell us the plan for company-owned retail.

GC: These stores are less than one-third of the business, and

we’re not after any major expansion. There are some oppor-

tunities, however, such as franchised stores, where we work

with independents. They run the store and benefit from the

products. There won’t be any difference to consumers walking

into a franchised store or company store. We may open a flag-

ship in [situations] where an independent could not get into a

certain mall and we can afford to.

Clarks is a prominent brand on home-shopping channel QVC.

How does that play into the brand’s sales strategy?

GC: It’s a tremendous marketing tool and exposes the brand

to millions. QVC helps market and drive consumers into their

local markets. They [often] tell independents they just saw a

particular shoe on QVC, would like to see it in other colors,

and then buy it from the [store].

The company is known for its Originals product. What’s been

its impact on the U.S. business?

GC: Sales in the Americas are phenomenal. We lead the global

business in the Wallabee and Desert Boot. At the moment,

we’re attracting kids with Originals. There’s now an opportu-

nity to expand. We just introduced the Trigenic, a style with a

three-piece sole that moves with the foot. It has an Originals

look and feel. [In the future], we could open Originals stores in

cites, college towns or pop-up shops.

The term “comfort” is used freely by many brands today. How

important is it to the marketing of Clarks?

GC: We’re a trusted brand, so I don’t think we have to use

the word as often as we had. We do, however, need to con-

temporize the product. Men and women have lots of options

right now. We have to incorporate [key] trends into our core

products by making sure the lasts and heels are right and the

upper patterns are updated.

Do you have any advice for someone starting out in shoes?

GC: People often fall back on technology when they should

be getting on the road and going face to face with a retailer,

whether they’re going to have a difficult [conversation] or a

great discussion. You need to meet [retailers] and figure a way

through an issue. You can’t get too far away from that — it’s

still a people business.

“People often fall back on technology when they could be getting on the road and going face to face with a retailer. ... You can’t get too far away from that.” Gary Champion

Clarks’ shoe lasts

12 I N S I D E R Rihanna recently stepped out in New York wearing the statement denim chap boots from her new collaboration with Manolo Blahnik.

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Top designers are turning up the volume on their favorite hits. From tracks by Rihanna to Beyoncé to Sia, power players share their song of the moment with Spy — the tunes that provide major inspiration while creating next season’s hits.

Jury Artola, co-founder and designer, Artola“One Republic’s ‘I Lived’ is very inspirational to me. It’s about living your life in a positive way, enjoying every moment and being in charge of your actions while keeping your dream alive.”

Theresa Ebagua, designer, Chelsea Paris “Rihanna’s ‘Consideration,’ from her new ‘Anti’ album. The song lifts my spirit and empowers me to dance to my own beats. It’s my current work song. I am working onspring ’17, and I have the song on full blast in my studio.”

Jerome Rousseau, designer“I’ve been listening to Belgian singer Lio a lot lately. Lio is a huge star of French pop from the early ’80s, and her sound and style continues to inspire me. My favorite Lio song at the moment is ‘Amoureux Solitaires.’ ”

Rebecca Minkoff, designer“ ‘Run the World (Girls)’ by Beyoncé — it’s such an energy-booster.”

Giuseppe Santoni, CEO and designer, Santoni“Right now it’s Sia’s latest album, ‘This Is Acting.’ I enjoy listening to it; it gives me great energy. I am intrigued by the story behind some of the tracks, many of which were originally written for other artists, such as Adele and Rihanna, who never went on to [record] them.”

Matt Bernson, designer“Deftones’ ‘Hearts/Wires’ — it starts slow and simply; it’s long and it’s interesting vs. catchy.”

Chart ToppersWhat songs are designers jamming

out to at work?

Sport StyleTalk about a cool crowd. Designer Tory Burch drewan impressive mix of gueststo celebrate her Tory Sportstore opening in New York City’s Flatiron neighborhood last week. Ashley Greene, Camilla Belle, Jessica Hart and Chanel Iman all showed their support — and enjoyed some dancing, too. Guests were treated to a performance by Kool & the Gang.

Warhol Zenadia

Pop Print Paul Andrew gave his Zenadia pump an artistic makeover. The designer created a playful special edition of the celebrity favorite style, featuring a pattern inspired by Andy Warhol’s 1962 artwork of Campbell’s Soup cans. The rendition project was for Interview Magazine.

By Kristen Henning

With contributions from FN Staff

Spotted“Outlander” star Caitriona Balfe hit the red carpet forthe show’s season premiere in a pair Nicholas Kirkwood Eclipse platforms and awhite Delpozo dress. The time-travel-meets-historical drama has been a hit for Starz and returns for its second season this week. Balfe and her co-star Sam Heughan also made the trip to New York City last week for a very special themed-window unveiling at Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship.

Cool Cause Jeffrey Kalinsky’s 13th Annual Jeffrey Fashion Cares benefit, held last week in New York City, brought out the fashion industry once again to help raise funds for the LGBT community. Guests included Paul Andrew and Prabal Gurung. Andrew Rannells, known for his role in HBO’s “Girls,” hosted the event atthe Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum, and it ended with a men’s runway show. “I’m proud of myself that I started this [in Atlanta] almost 24 years ago and that I’ve stuck with it,” Kalinsky told Spy.

Jeffrey Kalinsky

Tory Burch,Camilla Belle

Beyoncé

Caitriona Balfe

fter 15 years of creat-ing performance product for main-stream athletic brands, 37-year-old Mark

McGarry has stepped out on his own with York Athletics Mfg. His goal? To cater to the counterculture athlete.

The Boston-based brand’s cus-tomer, according to McGarry, is a 30-something physical- and mental-health enthusiast — immersed in action sports and the arts — who might not identify with conven-tional brands such as Nike, Adidas or Under Armour.

For its debut, the brand recently introduced two iterations of its Henry shoe, a low and a mid, built for a tempo run and cross-training workouts, respectively.

The shoes feature a toned-down color palette, atypical to the bold hues used in athletic footwear.

Just as unconventional as its target consumer is its sales ap-proach: You’re not going to find York’s product offerings in brick-and-mortar stores.

The brand has adopted a strict

direct-to-consumer sales focus.“We didn’t want to be anchored

to wholesale, and [we wanted to] have full control of our brand as we get going,” McGarry said.

“Our brand and our purpose is so meaningful to us that I don’t want to rely on this sitting on a shelf next to a Nike shoe or an Adidas shoe and have people say, ‘I’ve never heard of them,’ and move on.”

Matt Powell, sports industry ana-lyst with the NPD Group, said York’s direct-to-consumer approach makes growing tough, but not impossible, and comes with its benefits.

“They’ve got to have a robust social network with people buying [the message] and talking about it on their Facebook page and tweeting about it,” he said. “It’s a lot harder to market that way than it would be to have a store in Soho. But it’s a lot less expensive.”

Although it won’t be featured on shelves everywhere, York has joined forces with one retailer: Boston-based boutique Bodega.

“It gives them instant credibility when you’re in a retailer like that. Bodega is known worldwide as a real tastemaker,” Powell said.

Although McGarry is sticking to his guns with a direct-to-consumer sales approach, he hasn’t ruled out moving the brand into more doors.

In fact, he — along with co-founders Travis and Kyle York — hope to employ retail partners on a case-by-case basis surrounding future activations.

The brand partnered with a new retailer in late March, West Coast-based online store Huckberry, for the release of the “Concrete” colorway of its Henry low and mid shoes.

York also partnered in mid-March with Marathon Sports in Cambridge, Mass., to host a free evening group run, offering pairs of the Henrys for runners to try out.

Highlighting its misfit athlete core are brand ambassadors as

well as its sports and entertainment talent, which includes pro boxers Kevin Cobbs and Jason Kelly, snowboarder Eddie Wall, Miami-based fitness instructor and model Marilyn Rondon, and singer Lynn Gunn of the pop-punk band Paris.

McGarry said York would contin-ue to advance its Henry silhouettes for upcoming seasons, introducing an all-black iteration with Dri-lex moisture management fabric for the summer, a breathable update for fall and a winter version for 2017.

While York has many more ap-parel and accessory options than footwear, McGarry expects roughly 97 percent of the brand’s sales to come from sneakers.

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Pro boxerJason Kelly

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York Athletics Enters the Ring

“[We wanted to] have full control of our brand as we get going.” Mark McGarry, York Athletics

1 How is Two Ten approaching the initiative differently this year?“We themed it to focus on disadvan-taged kids. We also have 31 new com-panies that joined this year. A number of companies are interested in us-ing their shoes as community-service assets and will be doing shoe-donation programs. We see that as a space that Two Ten will be slowly moving into.”

2 What is the scope of the effort? “There are more than 125 companies [in-volved] in 100 differ-ent events and proj-ects in 29 states. We are expecting 8,000 to 9,000 volunteers. The three types of events include the single company events and the group ones. We have a number of initiatives with Amazon Fashion where they take the lead and bring their vendors together [for the cause].”

3 Discuss how Footwear Cares ties into Two Ten’s overall mission.“It gives us an oppor-tunity to interact with and engage 8,000 or so footwear employ-ees. For us, to be able to focus our energy to help our commu-nities and children is a wonderful and positive experience. It also enables us to tell a story about Two Ten that shoe people may not always be hearing about. “

4 How are you targeting young professionals with this initiative? “We see that it’s attractive to young executives and professionals in the industry because they are [drawn] to action. They love to get things done, and that’s what Footwear Cares does. My generation was more comfortable writing a check. This gen-eration is much more interested in getting engaged.”

5 Most memora-ble Footwear Cares moment so far? “Last year, I went out to Finish Line, and they rented the basketball stadium in Indianapolis. They had 1,000 employees there to help pack 300,000 meals for homeless families in three hours. Then I was in Seattle with Nordstrom, and we packed frozen peas in bags that were going to be used for fresh meals for homeless shelters.”

THINKPIECE

The Boston-based brand is targeting an unconventional consumer and taking a unique approach to making its mark. By Peter Verry

NEAL NEWMAN ON

FOOTWEAR CARES

By Nikara Johns

Teen store Pacific Sunwear was the latest to join a number of middle-market retail bankruptcies in the first half of 2016. Quiksilver, City Sports and Sports Authority have announced they’re shuttering completely or are restructuring. What gives? Analysts said there are no underlying common denominators, but

there are major shifts in shopper tastes. Real estate remains a top concern for retailers, though, said B. Riley analyst Jeff Van Sinderen: “One of the main problems is that with brick-and-mortar traffic running negative, e-commerce growth [is] not enough to offset [that], and average sales volumes are too low to support rents that simply have not come down enough, if at all, in most cases.”

Saint Laurent Signals A Fresh StartAfter months of speculation, Saint Laurent officially parted ways with Hedi Slimane last week and announced his replacement: Versus Versace designer Anthony Vaccarello. Saint Laurent generated buzz announcing Vaccarello’s arrival. The brand deleted the entire @YSL Instagram history, except for one post: a photo of Vaccarello. It’s quite the declaration of a clean slate at the storied brand. Vaccarello will have big shoes to fill as the sixth creative head in 14 years.

The Real NCAA Winner? Nike The NCAA tournament is over, and while the University of Connecticut women and Villanova men may have won the big games, the entire March Madness event was a resounding victory for one athletic brand. Nike outfitted the Final Four teams (although the University of North Carolina was a Jordan-sponsored squad), including both champions. For Nike, it means heightened presence and an extended dominance as a collegiate athletic sponsor.

Retail Bankruptcies Rise

QUOTES OF THE WEEKOverheard in the industry

“It felt strange to look at a picture of myself that is so different from what I look like when I look in the mirror. It’s an unfortunate feeling.” Kerry Washington on her

Photoshopped Adweek cover

“I am Reebok for life but today I’m paying tribute to the man who gave me the vision, the Greatest of All Time, MJ.”Allen Iverson on Instagram

after being named to the

Basketball Hall of Fame

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INSTAGRAMS OF THE WEEKThe five most-liked photos

from @FootwearNews

“@manoloblahnikhq turned to Picasso for inspiration for fall ’16.”

“Punk and Pink Mary-Janes at @worldmcqueen. #shoes”

“On the #iheartradio carpet: Taylor Swift, Zendaya & Meghan Trainor”

“Mule or heel? Why not a little of both? @gucci #shoes”

15Luxury fashion company Kering announced its executive board would soon be majority female. I N S I D E R

“Charlie Brown and the Peanuts get their own @grensonshoes collection.”

“I am looking forward to [the] collaboration and creating shoes for my fans that are perfect for their wardrobe.” Nick Jonas on his Creative

Recreation partnership and

being named brand ambassador

Anthony VaccarelloThe UConn women’s team

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all it the Amazon Prime effect.

The technology boom and shoppers’ buy-it-now, wear-it-now mentalities

are changing consumer expectations of how quickly they can get their

products. Increasingly, some major players are turning to logistics startups for help.

Nordstrom and Uber recently announced an on-demand delivery pilot for the Chicago flagship on Michigan Avenue. A Nordstrom

spokesperson said that the company decided to pair up with the car service to add an extra layer to its omnichannel strategy. The depart-ment store, which has not revealed whether it will expand the program to other markets, has operated a buy

online/pickup program since 2008.Similarly, the struggling Ameri-

can Apparel chain teamed with one-hour courier service Postmates, which distinguishes itself by operat-ing not just in major coastal cities but also in areas such as Oklahoma City and Columbus, Ohio. Post-mates folded American Apparel into its list of delivery options, which empowers local stores to become mini-distribution centers.

“American Apparel has these core basics, and we see those as things people need right away,” said Holger Luedrof, SVP of busi-nesses at Postmates. For example, if a customer on vacation finds the weather is colder than expected, he or she could use the service to buy a sweatshirt, Luedrof said.

There are obvious benefits to same-day delivery, such as help-ing move items through stock and engaging the shopper where they are, but retail analysts say there are some drawbacks. Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at The NPD Group, said that around 48 percent of in-store purchases are impulse buys — and online, that slips to 25 percent. “When you look at that, where would you rather have the customer?” he said. “This isn’t about making money. It’s about a race to market share.”

Farla Efros, president of HRC Advisory, said that millennial and Generation Z shoppers have pushed the trend forward, prompt-ing retailers to act. “This is a reactive response [by retailers] to Amazon, and my concern is it gets out of control,” Efros said. (Last week, Amazon expanded same-day delivery to 11 more cities.)

Still, some retailers are com-mitted to pouring resources into these types of programs. Luxury e-tailer Net-A-Porter introduced its next-day delivery program in New York in 2006 and said it’s become a key customer service part of the business. “The focus for Net-A-Porter has always been to offer our customers best-in-class service, which includes convenient delivery options for no matter where she is located,” said Heather Kaminetsky, VP of global marketing.

CIn an era of buy-now, wear-now, shoppers demand speedier customer service. By Margaret Sutherlin

Retailers Push for Faster Delivery

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17

Big Plans

Workboot vendors are building product this fall for the long haul with protective toe caps, waterproofing and enhanced sole traction.

Photographed by Claire Benoist

Fashion Director: Mosha Lundström Halbert

Market Editor: Barbara Schneider-Levy

GEORGIA BOOT’s water-proof logger with Comfort Core 7 removable three-layer insole and ERGO-FIT ergonomically designed composite toe

AVENGER’s electrical hazard safety-toe waterproof boot, lined with 600- gram Thinsulate insulation

CARHARTT’s soft-toe Thinsulate-lined water-proof boot with protective toe cap and self-cleaning lug outsole

DANNER’s Gore-Tex lined boot with light-weight Bi-Fit board for increased rigidity in the heel and flexibility in the forefoot

18

OLIVER’s insulated safety-toe boot with Green Diamond Technology Crystals molded into the rubber outsole for traction on ice

JUSTIN ORIGINAL WORKBOOTS’ electrical-hazard Commander-X5 steel-toe waterproof boot with metatarsal guard and Ortholite cushioned footbed

SKECHERS WORKS’ electrical hazard steel-toe waterproof boot with Relaxed Fit gel-infused memory foam footbed

19

DR. MARTENS INDUSTRIAL’s electrical-hazard hiker style with BreatheRight wicking lining and composite safety toe

WOLVERINE’s waterproof boot with DuraShocks energy return system, H-Plate suspension system and OrthoLite footbed

TERRA’s waterproof boot with Cleanfeet moisture-wicking lining, removable triple-density polyurethane footbed and Vibram Fire&Ice rubber outsole

21

TIMBERLAND PRO’s Gridworks series water-proof boot with alloy safety toe, Anti-Fatigue technology and rubber-toe bumper

RED WING’s Flexforce series waterproof safety-toe boot with removable DynaForce cushioned insole and Vibram outsole

STANLEY’s mid-cut hiker with waterproof membrane, reflective under-lays and rubber toe guard

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GOODYEAR’s insulated steel-toe boot with oil and slip-resistant outsole

DAN POST’s Rugged Lights series waterproof lightweight boot with oil-, heat- and slip-resistant outsole

ARIAT’s lightweight soft-toe boot with proprietary 4LR technology for cushioning and stability

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Hanwag has been using the double-stitch technique since its inaugural collection in 1921. 25

T H E L I S T

Stop ColdHanwag keeps heritage hiking alive this fall with the Grünten Winter boot. The timeless classic has been updated in black suede with red color pops, but it still boasts performance features such as the German brand’s double-stitched IceGrip outsole embedded with glass particles.

S H O EO F T H EW E E K1

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9T RAC K I N GT R E KSTA

10S P O RTO’S M A N H U N T

+M O R E

Courtney FrankMarketing manager,

Cat Footwear

“[We] know about 30 to 40 percent of the country’s bridges are below standard, and there’s also a need for road repair. This increased work would not just mean more construction jobs, but engineers, manufacturing, equipment operators, mining and other laborers. With these industries in mind, we created such styles as the heavy-duty Hauler and multipurpose composite-toe Fabricate.”

Brand executives off er up their platform preferences to boost

boot sales.

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

BURNING QUESTION

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Which initiatives

do you hope the new

president pursues?

Patrick MinerPresident, Weinbrenner/

Thorogood Shoes

“Anytime well-paying, full-time, blue-collar jobs are created, there’s a bigger opportunity for work footwear sales. Our biggest customers include construction workers, heavy-equipment operators, carpenters, electricians and plumbers, as well as assembly and warehouse workers. However, there’s another benefi t to investing in our infrastructure. It takes more police and fi refi ghters to protect these growing cities.”

David SharpPresident & CEO, Rocky Brands

“The potential return of manufacturing would reopen doors to develop and sell higher-end and higher-margin products. As the U.S. has shifted from a manufacturing to service-based model, so have the footwear needs of our workforce. The average retail price for boots has decreased because the need for more-expensive, benefi t-laden safety boots necessary for heavy industry has given way to cheaper styles now utilized in the service industries and light-industrial situations.”

Josh LizetteVP of sales, Justin Original

Workboots

“Here in the U.S., we make Goodyear-welted product for heavy-industrial workers in oil, gas and mining, so it would be benefi cial to have policies favorable to these industries. Increased manufacturing of auto, as well as home-goods products such as washers and dryers, would be great, too. We also just invested in a Desma machine for direct-injection footwear suited to lighter industrial jobs.”

Wayne WilsonVP of John Deere & McCrea,

Dan Post Boot Co.

“[A move to] bring back the energy industry — coal, gas, oil, fracking — with the Alaska pipeline the major one. Protective footwear is a necessity for these fi elds of work, particularly safety-toe and metatarsal-guard styles, which are [higher] price-wise. The energy industry also impacts many other nonenergy-producing industries that also [require work shoes], such as steel for energy operations, household appliances and, of course, roads and housing.”

Rocky

T H E L I S T26 Thorogood Shoes is marking its 125th anniversary in 2017.WORK & DUTY

2

Thorogood

John Deere

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Burrell got her start in the food industry at age 19.28 T H E L I S T WORK & DUTY

Spiky-haired celebrity chef Anne Burrell is well known among foodies — both for her signature dishes and for her current role as a mentor on Food Network’s “Worst Cooks of America: Celebrity Edition.” But she also recently added brand ambassador to her résumé, partnering with comfort footwear label Abeo. “I look for comfort and sustainability in my work footwear,” said Burrell, who’s often on her feet 12 hours a day. When not on kitchen duty, she opts for casual shoes in bright, happy colors, which she pairs with skirts and dresses. “I’m about joyful, colorful, comfortable clothes,” Burrell said. “In the summer, I’m a fl ip-fl op and sneaker kind of girl. In winter, it’s booties.” The chef admitted, however, that she’s not as sensible when it comes to her special-occasion footwear, boasting a wardrobe of 30 pairs of Christian Louboutin stilettos reserved for red-carpet moments. “They’re like wearing works of art,” she said.

Anne BurrellAbeo’s new brand ambassador dishes about a few of her favorite things inside and outside the kitchen. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

GOOD TASTE DOGS OR CATS:

“I own two Maine Coon cats.”

FAVORITE INTERNATIONAL CUISINE:

“Every place has something to offer. I’ve traveled to Italy the most — the Italian kitchen speaks to me.”

NEXT VACATION SPOT:

“Croatia. The beaches are still unspoiled by tourists.”

CELEBRITY I’D LIKE TO COOK FOR:

“Amy Schumer. I think we’d have funny dinner conversation.”

MOST ADMIRED CHEF:

“Mario Batali. I am a disciple of his.”

BEST PIZZA JOINT IN NEW YORK:

“Artichoke Basille’s.”

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lip-and-fall accidents are an expensive problem for U.S. busi-nesses. Stuart Jenkins, president and CEO of

Shoes for Crews, estimates that they cost $70 billion annually in workers’ compensation and medical expenses, accounting for 65 percent of all workdays lost.

For the past 30 years, his West Palm Beach, Fla.-based company has been on a mission to tackle the issue with slip-resistant footwear for the hospitality, health care and industrial markets.

Since its launch, Shoes for Crews has registered year-on-year growth, in part because its slip-resistance standards exceed those recommended by the U.S. govern-ment, giving the company an edge in the work and duty markets. The shoes feature performance outsoles made in its company-owned factory in Asia.

In addition, the firm’s direct-to-consumer and corporate relationship business model has allowed it to keep shoes accessibly priced, at $35 to $100 for shoes and $65 to $135 for boots, opening the door to workers

in both entry-level and management positions.

Shoes for Crews boots are targeted to safety professionals from a range of industries, including manufacturing plants and fast-food chains.

“We’ve been partners with 94 of the top restaurant chains in America for the past 15 years,” said Jenkins, noting that 60 percent of the com-pany’s sales are done at the corporate level, with the remainder via its con-sumer catalog and e-commerce site.

In addition to its U.S. business, the company distributes footwear in Europe and Asia, accounting for 10 percent of revenue.

While sales have consistently grown, Jenkins said the company still remains under the radar. However, it has the opportunity to connect directly with consumers at its two stores in Las Vegas and Orlando, Fla., which are aimed at hospitality and theme-park workers.

“Opening more stores is one of the things we’re looking at [going forward],” said Jenkins. “We will not be taking a retail-heavy strategy, but just supplementing what we do. We’ll do it in a targeted way.”

For Shoes for Crews, safety starts from the bottom up with its slip-resistant outsoles.

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

Hazard Ready

S4

The Froggz Proclogs on the job

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STEVE GUNN The CEO of Blundstone on evening the scales between work and fashion and the brand’s global appeal.

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

1Blundstone off ers both lifestyle and utility looks. How do you balance these segments?Currently, the two are about 50-50. Since we’ve always been both, it’s natural for us. The comfort components in our leisure looks are the direct result of the research and development done in utility. We have a strong work presence in Canada, Scandinavia and Australasia, which is a big part of the story. In

Italy, it’s almost exclusively leisurewear. [The connection] between lifestyle and utility is one we’re happy to acknowledge, but I don’t believe it is terribly relevant to [consumers]. It’s a subtle message.

2How far can you take the brand fashion-wise without losing its DNA?Blundstone isn’t only about Chelsea boots. Our fi rst boots produced 150 years ago were lace-up work styles. In the early 1990s, a mix of Chelsea and lace-up boots did well in the U.K. and U.S. The brand will go as far as consumers allow it. While it’s always been a unisex line, these days we’re developing styles for women with gender-specifi c lasts and shapes.

3Where does the U.S. busi-ness rank for you globally?We’ve been working on it for 10 years, but it isn’t large. It’s been achieving an annual growth rate of 50 percent

over the past fi ve years. Some [consumers] had heard of the brand in the leisure space, so there was a little brand awareness, but in the work sector, people had not heard of it. However, they were interested since the boots looked a little diff erent, and they got the heritage story. It’s always going to be at the premium end of the market, but the footwear has performed well, and retailers wanted to take it on.

4How can you expand distribution without losing your sense of cool?There are large areas of the U.S. where we may have only one or two retailers, but there should be room for 20 or 30. So we’re looking to open more doors because there are lots of people who — outside of shopping online — [still] fi nd it hard to fi nd the brand. We’re being very careful, though, about who we deal with. We want retail partners who

understand where the brand fi ts. When people walk into a store, we want

them to say, “Yeah, the brand belongs here.”

5Who is the Blundstone customer today?It’s broad. It may sound cliché, but we sell to consumers from 4 to 84. I don’t intend to stop wearing them at 84. It’s also much more female-based today, and we’re selling more to younger people. But we’re not getting carried away with defi ning [our audience] to the point of restricting ourselves. There are common links in the way people live their lives and the brands they want [to wear].

5 QUESTIONS Blundstonelace-up boots

for fall ’16

A fall ’16 unisex style

5

INTRODUCING THE NON-METALLIC AND RUGGED TACOMA SERIES#KEENUTILITY | KEENUTILITY.COM

Duty shoe brands are taking a shine to metallics, dressing

up slip-resistant styles with hints of silver, platinum

and titanium.

Sterling Job

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FALL TREND

Spring Footwear’sfl oral-print clog

Lace-up style from Nurse Mates with silver swirls

Grey’s Anatomy slip-onwith silver brush strokes

Printed Mary Jane style from Alegria with ornament closure

Dansko’s striated-eff ect slip-on with goring

WorkLife from LifeStride’s speckled-eff ect clog

31On model: Narciso Rodriguez illuminated his fall ’16 runway collection with silver from head to toe. T H E L I S TWORK & DUTY

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BUZZ

On The JobAthletic powerhouse Fila is per-

forming in some new markets — work and duty shoes.

The company launched sneaker-inspired slip-resistant looks for men

and women in 2015, targeting the industrial, health-care and hospitality markets, and expects to double the business this year. Influenced by the brand’s sneaker heritage, the collection retails from $40 to $60 and is sold

through partners such as Rack Room, JCPenney and Academy Sports. For independents with e-commerce sites, Fila will ship shoes directly to consumers, enabling these stores to carry a wider product offering.

Sure FootedTwo iconic brands have come together to make the workplace safer. Dickies and Michelin are stepping into the duty shoe market with a line of Dickies-branded slip-resistant footwear produced by Kodiak Group Holdings in Cambridge, Ontario. The shoes use the technology from Michelin’s City Pro motor-bike tire, designed to grip the road on uneven slippery surfaces. Included in the offering are the Apex and Charge styles, retailing at $75. The shoes will deliverthis month.

Work & Duty News

Pop BuyWolverine is planning to visit four construc-tion sites around the country as part of its ongoing Project Bootstrap campaign. Launched last year, the initiative is intended to thank those who share the brand’s strong work ethic. As such, the company will be handing out pairs of itsfall ’16 Legend boot featuring DuraShocks comfort technology, and also offering other giveaways and free lunch. The first site selected by Wolverine will be visited in June. Consumers can nominate additional locations on Wolverine.com starting in July.

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A Boulder LookSteep walls and startling heights don’t intimidate the experienced and novice climbers of all ages at the Brooklyn Boulders rock-climbing facility in

New York City. Ensuring the ascent and descent goes well, climbers conquer the walls in colorful looks from La Sportiva, Five Ten, Scarpa and Edelrid.

Photographed by Rory Moon

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BILL COMBSThe founder and CEO of Bogs on weathering the winter season and heating up with new technologies.

By Jennie Bell

1How did Bogs fare last winter with the unusual weather?In New England, you had no winter, so there was no reason to buy boots. That certainly impacted our business. In the West, winter was late but it came, so we ended up having a good season. And in the Midwest, it was just OK. Everyone in the weather-drivenbusiness is asking how do we move this forward. But people forget we had three

really good winters before this. We all got a little spoiled and kept growing and growing. But nothing lasts forever.

2Do you expect that will aff ect the market for fall ’16?I think retailers and vendors are all going to go in a little scared and under-inventoried.So then retailers are going to chase the trends, but the vendors aren’t going to have the inventory. We’re in the shoe business — we always overreact. But if we get even a little bit of weather, there are going to be problems. For us, though, we’ll be fi ne. Our industrial business is very consistent. The guy who gets up and goes to work, he’s going to wear his boots no matter what the weather. That base business isn’t goingto change.

3You’ve been diversifying your business with new product categories. How is that process going?In today’s retail environment, any category

expansion is diffi cult. Getting shelf space anywhere is tough. We just de-livered our second sandal collection. What we’ve done is partner closely with key retailers like REI, and we’re rolling out there now. It’s early, but so far, so good. And we’ve had a lot of success in our not-so-warm boots — the ones that are warm enough for going out in the snow but can also be used as rainboots. We’ve seen a lot of growth there because the selling season is longer.

4How are you communicating these expansions to consumers?We’ve centered in on the fact that the core technology hasn’t changed: waterproof, comfort and cushioning. Even though we’re making leather boots and casual shoes, they have a technical story like nonslip outsoles, while inside, there will be a comfort story like Rebound cushioning, and the uppers will be waterproof. We think that will carry us over because

people trust that they’re going to get the same performance out of

a casual boot as they did in a performance boot.

5 What other new develop-ments are in store for the

coming seasons?For spring ’17, we’ll be introducing the nextgeneration of our Re-bound material.We don’t even have a

name for it yet it’s so new. It has a lot of the same properties as Rebound, but it’s

heat-activating, so if you warm it in the microwave and then put it on, it molds to the shape of your foot. We’re going to introduce it at the Outdoor Retailer show this summer.

5 QUESTIONS

A fall Chelseaboot forwomen

The fall ’16Carly boot

8

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learn more and register:fdra.org/disruption

Join 200 executives at this one-day summit as they explore disruptions impacting

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hree years after Recreation Outfit-ters became its North American distributor, Korea-based label

Treksta is clearing its own path in the crowded outdoor market here.

Rob McCurdy, director of sales for Vancouver, British Columbia-based Recreation Outfitters, told Footwear News that Treksta’s Nestfit comfort technology is helping to fuel the brand’s growth in the U.S. and Canada. Nestfit — found in every shoe in the North American offering — uses a last that closely resembles the shape of a human foot, formed as a result of 20,000 3-D foot scans.

“Everything from the outsole to the upper is built around that last, so you have a very supportive, comfort-

able shoe right out of the box,” said McCurdy.

For fall ’16, Treksta is focused on the female consumer, pushing its winter-specific Arctica collection of three boot silhouettes — low, mid and high — that have a casual look but high-performance features such as insulation and waterproofing. For men, the brand will continue to tout its popular all-purpose Cape boot. In addition, Treksta believes its burgeoning running and trail-run-ning categories will be growth areas this season.

However, executives admitted that brand awareness remains a chal-lenge. To bolster its name, Treksta signed on as a sponsor of the Banff Mountain Film & Book Festival in Banff, Alberta, and its correspond-

ing world tour, which wraps up in November. “We’re speaking directly to an outdoor audience and because we’re a major sponsor, that gives the consumer a feeling of confidence in the brand,” said Jackie Swanson, GM of Recreation Outfitters.

Treksta has taken a similar approach with its retail strategy, engaging consumers directly through e-commerce. That channel will con-tinue to be a priority, but executives also plan to focus this fall on specialty retail stores because they have a more hands-on selling style.

“The fit of our shoe is not obvious until you try it on — you can’t see the benefits of Nestfit on the wall,” McCurdy said. “We want people to tell the brand story and indicate how Treksta is different.”

With its comfort-minded outdoor line, Treksta hopes to bolster its presence in North America By Peter Verry

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porto has looked to its past to make progress in today’s congested outdoor space. The brand, which was

founded in 1872 as the Gold Seal Rubber Co., will mark the 40th anniversary of its iconic duck boot this fall with a special updated collection of the classic silhouette.

The new capsule line blends Sporto’s design heritage with modern fashion elements and — most im-portantly — the latest performance technology, including Vibram Icetrek outsoles and Thermolite insulation.

But Sporto’s reworked duck boot is more than just a celebration of its history — it also offers the brand an opportunity to re-enter the men’s outdoor market, after being absent since 2003.

“We wanted to regain the authen-ticity and the heritage of the brand,

to speak about its American roots,” said Brandy McCarty, SVP of global sales and brand strategy at The East-man Group, which has owned Sporto since 2008 and has been revamping the women’s label with new product designs, branding and marketing.

“We felt this would be a good launching pad to spring back into the men’s heritage business,” he said. “[We created] an upgraded model with the Icetrek bottom, which makes it the most technical duck boot we’ve ever done.”

McCarty added that Sporto’s men’s push is limited to the special duck boot anniversary collection be-cause that is where the brand has the strongest technical authenticity.

“That’s the only place Sporto has been,” he said. “We want to perfect that heritage product and focus on our foundation and core product before we get too crazy and expand

S

Sporto used BMWs as a source of inspiration to reimagine its duck boots.

expects a similar rise in 2016.Aside from its Vibram-enhanced

duck boots, Sporto will continue to serve its stable of retail partners — that includes Famous Footwear, Macy’s and DSW — with its main women’s assortment, retailing from $90 to $110.

McCarty believes Sporto will see success this fall with its short bootie styles, which offer technical elements including EcoDry water-proofing.

“With unpredictable weather, we’ve seen a movement away from tall product to low,” he said. “[Our customer] could wear the ankle boot throughout the fall into inclement weather. There’s a thin layer of insulation to give her protection that’s also not uncomfortable on a day where it may rise into the mid-50s.”

Unpredictable weather has been an issue for the entire outdoor

too far outside of that.” Retailers applauded the brand’s

move into the men’s business. Chris Galvin, merchandising

brand manager at Shoebuy.com, said Sporto has done well historically for the e-tailer. He believes the price points for the anniversary duck boot collection, which range from $110 to $140, will be a key factor in the brand’s success with male consumers.

“There is certainly opportunity here for Sporto, but there is also a lot of competition,” he said. “The Vibram outsole will be an attractive and highly recognizable feature to most male consumers, but smart pricing will be important in this competitive market.”

Catering to men could offer Sporto another opportunity for sales growth, which, according to McCarty, has been in the double digits in recent years. The brand

As Sporto celebrates the anniversary of its duck boot, the women’s brand seeks to connect with men. By Peter Verry

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The new Vibram-enhancedboots are equipped to handle

wet, dry and icy surfaces

36 T H E L I S T OUTDOOR

Rebooting History

A weatherizedSporto boot

styled forwork or play

industry this past year, and many brands have had to adjust in order to fi nd sales.

Sporto’s retail partners cheered the brand for its ability to adapt.

“They are a great cold-weather boot resource,” said Michelle Mackin, VP and DMM for Famous Footwear, “but three years ago, when cold-weather product slowed down, [Sporto SVP of sales] Mark McCormick worked proactivelyto reposition the brand from solely a fourth-quarter business to arelevant third-quarter brandas well.”

For coming seasons, the labelis working to fi nd the right approach for today’s market. McCarty said that while Sporto is excited to celebrate the history of its popular duck boots, the team

doesn’t want its identity tied solely to the iconic style.

“We want to capture the duck-boot heritage — which we’ve been doing for the longest time along with L.L. Bean — [but] we don’t want to be known as ‘the duck boot company,’ ” McCarty said. “The challenge going forwardis taking the momentum we’ve carried over the past couple of years and expand it to newcategories and introduce ourselves to a new market, as with our men’s product.”

To face that challenge,McCarty said the label willfocus on utilizing its waterproof capabilities throughout all of its product off erings, from casual to career-oriented silhouettes for men and women.

THE DUCK: FOUR NEW WAYSA few of Sporto and Vibram’s updated classics for fall.

Peter men’s style with a hand-lasted upper

Shearling-lined Defrost boot for women

Low-cut Brian style for men

Dena tall laced boot for women

t the Material ConneXion library in New York, the long aisles are lined with thousands of physical

pieces — things such as macadamia nut shells, leather made from a cow’s stomach, plastics in beehive cones and hand-molded fabrics that resemble Bubble Wrap.

To help navigate the diverse collection of items, aisles are sorted according to various categories such as naturals, polymers, glass, metals and processes. Each indi-vidual sample has a description and small wood panel that can be removed from the wall by designers researching at the library.

Material ConneXion was founded in 1997 as a resource for architects and designers, although legend has it the first three clients were not actu-ally architectural firms but a lingerie brand, a toy company and Nike. Thus the founders, George Beylerian and

Michele Caniato, realized the un-tapped potential for other industries.

Today, the firm, which is owned by media company Sandow, has seven libraries around the world and serves a variety of companies. About 20 percent of its library members are ath-letic, fashion and footwear brands, including Reebok, Under Armour and Nike.

Over the years, Material ConneXion has contributed to projects such as the Nike Flyknit technology, Puma’s “Clever Little Bag,” Adidas’ Lone Star Olympic shoe and the Air Jordan XIX laceless sneakers.

“Before the concept stage, we can show materials that can influ-ence design,” said Andrew Dent, VP of library and material research at

A

Material ConneXion’s newest library location opens this month in Bilbao, Spain.

Material ConneXion. “That is the most valuable way we can help. But sometimes [designers are] just look-ing for inspiration in a texture or graphic effect or the way a material bends.”

Dent pointed out that footwear brands continue to be focused on the development of wearables and interactivity, as well as on sustain-able products, natural fibers and adaptability.

And the emphasis on technology is especially strong among athletic labels. “[Brands ask], ‘How do I use interactivity on both sides to learn

more about myself and my performance, and learn

more about what other people are doing and what the brand is doing?’ ” said Dent.

He added, “Interactivity and

adaptability are also about getting some-

thing that looks like your foot. We were talking

about 3-D printing a decade ago, and people started wondering if there is a way to grow something around your foot, like bacteria that you can wash or peel off whenyou’re done.”

Though growing a wash-off shoe might be decades down the road,

A design resource hub offers a closer look at top manufacturing trends and futuristic ideas. By Margaret Sutherlin

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Caption

38 T H E L I S T MATERIALS & COMPONENTS

Design MustsMaterial ConneXion’s Andrew Dent picks the top processes impacting footwear.

CUSHIONING & SOLE CONSTRUCTION “The use of new foams and resins has extended the opportuni-ties for new sole construction. In addition, the introduction of 3-D-printed soles — both for cushioning and rigid structure — poses an exciting change for what is often an overlooked aesthetic part of footwear.”

KNITTING “The shoe has become apparel. In the same way that 3-D knitting has revolutionized garment construction, it is starting to do the same for footwear. Since the Nike Flyknit, the use of knitting machines to produce footwear uppers gives the chance to play with pattern, form, performance and material type all in a one-step process with zero waste.”

STITCHLESS DESIGNS “With the advent of better and more widely available polyure-thane taping and film technolo-gies, this has changed the way we see footwear construction. The polyurethane is a bond, fabric and pattern all at the same time, allow-ing brands much greater latitude in design and form.”

Material Benefits

Dent said Material ConneXion is focusing on a few important trends in the coming year, including explor-ing more naturally enhanced materi-als — or organic fibers that have been altered to become stronger or more useful. The brand is also looking at how technology and wearables can better be ingrained into packaging and fabrics.

But the area that most excites the company is the technologies of the future and whether they have applications today.

“We are looking at materials that take technology to a new level: flexible glass and carbon nanotubes, nanocomposite cellulose,” said Dent. “We’re looking at materials that are a step beyond where our clients are working, and asking, ‘Where is the intersection with high tech and where does it fit in?’ ”

Material ConneXionfootwear projects

Inside thelibrary in New York

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n a move to double its busi-ness within the next three years, 86-year-old Brockton, Mass.-based fi rm Jones & Vining is restructuring its

business model from a component sales company off ering lasts, outsoles and insoles to a full-service branding partner.

Spearheading the initiative is industry veteran Charlie Liberge, Jones & Vining’s recently named EVP, who plans to support the move with ramped-up PR and market-ing, including increased trade advertising and an updated website.

Liberge said company owners Mark Krentzman and Lars Vaule opted to change course because the business had stagnated. “We have direct competition in every cate-gory — lasts, inserts, midsoles and outsoles — but are the only company in the footwear industry off ering a complete service allow-ing us to help brands build consistency of fi t, comfort and wear,” Liberge said.

Currently, Jones & Vining has a broad customer base, including Under Armour, Brooks, Danner, SAS and Justin, among

others. Domestic brands account for about 85 percent of business, though high-profi le athletic labels such as Adidas and Puma are among its overseas partners.

“Some have been customers for many years, while others have joined or grown dramatically [with us] over the past eight months, ” Liberge said, noting Deckers Brands and Brooks are among its newaccounts.

Jones & Vining manufactures a number of products at its facilities in Maine and Arkansas. Liberge predicted 17 percent of product to be made here by year’s end.

However, the bulk of production is in Asia. And to expand its reach overseas, Liberge is seeking global distributors forits products.

According to Liberge, the biggestchallenge going forward will be maintain-ing manufacturing capabilities where foot-wear is being sourced. “Lots of people are exiting China, so we opened a new facility in Indonesia and have one in Vietnam,” he said. “By going where brands are sourcing, we’re making it easier.”

Components resource Jones & Vining wants to be the Intel of the shoe industry with its branded products. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

Lasting Fit

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Early last makersat Jones & Vining

Jones & Vining also makes components for the auto, electronics and furniture markets.40 T H E L I S T

BRAD SCHORRThe SVP of Realtree on camoufl age, the pattern’s popularity and versatility.

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

1What initially promptedRealtree to share its signature camoufl age patterns with licensing partners? We’ve always been a hunting-eff ectiveness apparel company marketing to the hunter. [However], fi ve to eight years ago, we decided there was an opportunity [to diversify] from a lifestyle standpoint. There are 15.5 million licensed hunters. That number doesn’t change too often, and it’s a very loyal group. But there are 142 million outdoor enthusiasts who may or may not own a gun or bow, but enjoy outside activities. These are where there are opportunities to branch out [with other brands].

2How do footwear companies utilize Realtree’s properties?Old Dominion Footwear in Madison Heights, Va., has the rights to use our corporate brands: Realtree Girl, Realtree Outfi tters, Realtree and Team Realtree. But that doesn’t limit other manufacturers like Keen, Merrell, Nike and Crocs from using our camoufl age patterns, which are all generated in-house. And Realtree’s [background] colors have added another platform beyond hunting. So if lime green or bright safety orange is going to be hot a

particular year, [lifestyle-driven manufacturers] can use that color.

3How does Realtree market its name at the footwear level?[We require] every licensee to have a hangtag on their products, so consumers know they’re seeing [an authentic] Realtree pattern. When brands promote their products through catalogs or marketing materials, we recommend [using Realtree] logos. People prefer real camoufl age.

4Where else do you see

growth in your business?The female demographic is one of our fastest growing in the [performance]

hunting world. At one time, it was less than 5 percent. [It

may be because] her signifi cant other is an outdoorsman or hunter, and she wants to partake in these activities, too. [This uptick] has prompted apparel and footwear manufacturers to bring out SKUs specifi cally for the female consumer. Companies like Under Armour have created apparel for women. Footwear then came in and complemented that product.

5Overall, how important is footwear to Realtree?It’s a catalyst for people when making buying decisions. They always want to match footwear to their apparel, whether they’re hunting or working out. People can wear their comfortable running shoes or go out to dinner in dressier Ariat boots and still have the Realtree connection. We want to make sure we’re very broad in our off erings to cater to the public.

5 QUESTIONS

A Realtreehead-to-toelook

MATERIALS & COMPONENTS

A huntingboot withRealtree camo

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Run Dry Overland Park, Kansas-based eVent Fabrics continues to build its standing in footwear. The company, which first pat-ented its waterproofing technology in 1999, is now working with more than two dozen shoe brands, including Lacoste, Ugg, Plae and Teva. Topo Athletic is among its newest partners, collaborat-ing with eVent on the Hydroventure, a trail-running sneaker that launched this spring and retails for $130 at REI.com and other specialty retailers. The shoe utilizes eVent’s

new DVdryLT waterproof technology, which eliminates layers and glue to reduce cost and weight. As a result, the Hydroventure weighs in at just 9.7 ounces in a men’s size 9.

Batter UpOrtholite is getting its game on. The Amherst, Mass.-based insole company will serve as the official insole of the New York Yankees and engage fans at home games through a range of initiatives and promotional efforts during the season. The sponsorship will include

prominent placement throughout Yankee Stadium, including

behind home plate and on the scoreboard.

The initiative follows a similar

partnership with the Brooklyn Nets for theteam’s 2015-16 season.

A-Vail YourselfVibram is hitting the slopes in a big way this year. The Concord, Mass.-based outsole company — and maker of Vibram FiveFingers — has signed on as the official footwear partner of Vail Resorts Inc. As part of the deal, Vail Resorts guests will have exclusive access to Vibram’s own shoes, as well as products from its many partners, and get the chance to test out new styles and technologies from the company. In addition, Vibram will participate in signature Vail Resorts events, including Snow Daze, Spring Fever, Spring Gruv and others.

BUZZ

M&C NewsSupport Group Sof Sole, the Research Triangle Park, N.C.-based provider of insoles and footwear accessories forthe athletic and lifestyle markets, is accepting applicants for its 2016 ambassador team: Team Nova. The group of 40 will be made up of various individuals, including performance-oriented athletes, weekend warriors and foot-care professionals who will form a group of foot-health advocates. The company is looking for people who understand that healthy feet are the key to overall wellness and energy, and who can provide first-hand accounts of the difference Sof Sole products make in their daily lives and training regimens. The team will be announced in the last week of April. A Sof Sole

athletic insole

The Topo Hydroventure

Footwear News is the premier destination for the footwear industry’s classified and career listings.

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Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar

ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE

APRIL

4/11 3/30 Work Boot, Occupational Footwear Outdoor, Material & Components

4/25 4/13 Synclaire Brands Milestone Women’s Fashion, Legwear

MAY

5/2 4/20 Under Armour Milestone

5/9 4/27 Made In Spain

5/16 5/4 Best of Running

5/30 5/18 FFANY Pre-Show, Women In Power Distribution: FFANY

JUNE

6/6 5/25 Toms Milestone, FN Summit, FFANY Show Bonus Distribution: FFANY, FN Summit

6/13 6/1 FN Summit Coverage, FFANY Wrap-Up

6/20 6/8 Trade Show PLANNER, International Trade Show Guide: 2nd Half 2016

6/27 6/15 Athletic. Bread & Butter Bonus Distribution: Shoe Market of Americas, Agenda Show

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO. 13. April 11, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at footwearnews@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliver-able, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a sub-scription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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PickTalkingShopNicki Minaj stopped by Ellen DeGeneres’ daytime show last week wearing Christian Louboutin lace-up sandals. During her appearance, the rapper divulged details about her role in the film “Barbershop: The Next Cut” and working with co-star Ice Cube. Later that night, Minaj wore the same Louboutin shoes at the movie’s Los Angeles premiere.