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R A M P A

Fall 2013

ch iara ferragn i

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e d i t o r ’ s n o t e

This season’s issue is, what we believe to be, one of the most fashionable issues of RAMPA magazine yet. We bring to you in great detail the large variety of styles and aesthetics seen on the catwalk to the bold, emerging of-the-moment trends of the street. With each image you come accross in this month’s issue find a way to discover which ones speak to you. Once discovering the latest looks that you admire most, get out there with our guide to living like a local and shop til’ you drop at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Treat yourself to top of the line statment pieces and who knows, maybe you’ll be turning next month’s pages to be pleasantly surprised when you come accross your own photo within our street style pages. Stay true to you and as we always say, life is your RAMPA and it is your choice to work it any which way you like!

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c o n t r i b u t e r s

N I K O L A S H A K A N S O nA f t e r s t u d y i n g l i t e r a t u r e a t O x f o r d N i k k n e w h e w a n t e d t o f i n d a n o p p o r t u n i t y i n t h e e d i t o r i a l i n d u s t r y . I t w a s n ’ t u n t i l h e w a s g i v e n t h e o p p o r t u n i t y t o i n t e r v i e w f a s h i o n b l o g g e r ’ s f o r t h i s m o n t h ’ s c o v e r s t o r y t h a t h e r e c o g n i z e d h i s p a s s i o n f o r f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y c o v e r a g e .

c a r o v i t e r iC a r o l i n a V i t e r i f e e l s p r i v e l e g e d t o b e a b l e t o c a l l t h e b e a u t i f u l f a s h i o n c a p i t a l o f M i l a n h e r h o m e . w h e n a s k e d t o d e s c r i b e h o w s h e f e e l s a b o u t w o r k i n g w i t h R a m p a h e r r e s p o n s e w a s , “ i f e e l a s t h o u g h I a m l i v i n g i n a d r e a m , a d r e a m f r o m w h i c h I n e v e r w a n t t o b e w o k e n u p . ”

k a l e i g h r y a nK a l e i g h w a s a l w a y s a n a v i d t r a v e l e r, h e r f a v o r i t e d e s t i n a t i o n s b e i n g t h e E u r o p e a n c i t i e s t h a t a l l o w e d h e r t o c u l t i v a t e h e r l o v e f o r t h e l u x u r y f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y . W h e n o f f e r e d t h e p o s i t i o n o f l u x u r y r u n w a y r e p o r t e r f o r R a m p a m a g a z i n e s h e k n e w t h a t s h e c o u l d b e h a p p p i e r n o w e h e r e e l s e .

l a u r e n s p r i n g e t tN e v e r w i t h o u t c a m e r a i n h a n d d u r i n g h e r y e a r s a t P a r s o n s , L a u r e n s o u g h t b e a u t y t h r o u g h h e r l e n s e o n t h e s t r e e t s t a k i n g i n t h e e c l e c t i c s t y l e o f e a c h p a s s e r b y . I t ’ s n o w o n d e r s h e h a s e n d e d u p c o v e r i n g t h e s t r e e t s t y l e o f t h e i m p e c c a b l y c h i c s t r e e t s o f M i l a n .

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c o n t e n t s

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RUNWAY REPORTS

COVER STORY

STREET SWANK

GUIDE TO MILAN

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R U W N W A Y W R A P U P

E M I L I O P U C C I

C a v a l l i

A L B E R T A F E R E T T I

m i s s o n i

Who wouldn’t want to look great and comfy at the same time? Well, Missoni’s collection retreated into the sanctuary of the boudoir flowing with languid lines that echoed pajamas and bathrobes as well as huge blanket wraps that suggested consummate coziness. But there was another statement, a louder voice in the collection; fishnet tights, boots and metallic jacquards in simple sixties-styled shifts made of liquid leathers and jerseys. We also saw sheer panels that sensuously revealed bits of the body. Missoni’s classic techniques were radically reconfigured and warmly welcomed thanks to the bold, techno-dégradé inflections in acidic hues.

The selection Alberta Ferretti presented for Fall 2013 was thoughtful and carefully executed. Outfitting the models in luxurious wool plaids and sumptuous velvets cut into covered-up shapes such as the long, high-collared coats and buttoned-up blazers nipped at the waist. An important thing to note about this collection, for all its modesty and heavy fabrics it felt decidedly youthful. Whatever it was, the overall effect here was one of refinement, strength, and a little fantasy. As Ferretti said, “It’s an important moment to focus exactly on my style.” And that is exactly what she did.

It seems Roberto Cavalli was aiming to make woman tougher with all the metal embellishments, pointed shoulders, and buttoned-up feeling of his Fall 2013 collection. In a way it seems he was dressing very chic warriors, and well, he was. The shows key looks pointed to “a captivating and sensual armor effect” But despite the embellishment and visual appeal, there was a sleek feeling to some of the garments. Cavalli used the cleanliness of line to prove he doesn’t have to show skin to sell feminine strength, power, or sex appeal.

Emilio Pucci and Peter Dundas realized for this coming fall that ostentation and opulence are best served in short measures. They seem to be designing for the free-spirit girl equipped with a lengthy pair of legs. This collection was a blast, sexily-spirited nonstop exotica including those trademark swirling rococco prints, spinning across tiny fluted pale silk skirts worn with metallic bead-encrusted tops.

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R U W N W A Y W R A P U P F E N D I

Initially, Fendi’s iconic FF stood for Fun Furs and for the house’s 96th show Karl Lagerfeld revisited that original notion. The show boasted a medley of fur in an assortment of shapes and colors. Fur was present on bags, bangles, belts, booties, sunglasses; even the model’s heads were ornamented with colored fur Mohawks. Then of course there were the fur coats: gorgeous, luxurious, and with nod to Fendi’s signature quirk. They came in camel, with multi-colored stripes, adorned with feathers and in combinations of black, teal, orange, and white. Before the show Lagerfeld declared that nobody does fur better than Fendi and as always, Lagerfeld was dead-on.

J I L L S A N D E R Jil Sander, who returned to the house that bears her name only a season ago, has certainty gotten back into the swing of things. Her looks offered elegance, restraint, and moderation in crisp and clearly defined terms. The thoughtful show featured skirts that flared just below the knee, jackets that were elongated and innovative oversized coats. The tailoring was impeccable and mirrored that of a gemstone. It was the kind of collection one might anticipate from the professed queen of minimalism.

D O L C E & G A B B A N A

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana looked to the golden mosaics of Sicily’s Cathedral of Monreale for inspiration for their Fall 2013 collection. Dolce & Gabbana presented extravagant dresses printed with Monreale’s famed Byzantine and Venetian mosaics, and equally as many lacy dresses in a rich red. Saints, kings, and angles appeared on dresses, tops, and skirts and were often gilded or bordered with jewels. Rosaries and crowns, which topped off a handful of looks, were the perfect finishing touches to outfits that were truly fit for a queen. Providing more wearable options, tailored skirt suits in check or herringbone tweed provided the perfect foil to the opulent gold looks. Overall, the show was a delightfully decadent visual feast.

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G U C C I For fall 2013, the Gucci woman is all about contradiction. The brand’s creative director Frida Giannini took ladylike silhouettes and made them hard-edged and risqué with sexy materials and styling. Adding a dominatrix vibe to the collection, there were leather turtlenecks worn underneath sculpted suits, a handful of form-fitting python looks, and sheer panels and plunging necklines that bared daring amounts of skin. But when Giannini was not indulging her dominatrix side, the Gucci woman was the epitome of ladylike sophistication. Dresses and blazers were expertly tailored, flaring out at the hips giving a 1940s vibe. For evening, the gowns were accented with swirls of fringe and feathers. It was an exciting show that the powerful Gucci women will love.

R U W N W A Y W R A P U P

p r a d a

After seasons of conceptual and highly themed collections, Miuccia Prada’s fall 2013 show took a turn to concentrate simply on what she simply likes. There was fur, cinched-in and belted waists, and interesting skirts that were ornamented with flowers or finished with asymmetrical hems- or both. If the hemlines appeared a little undone, so did the models’ hair, as it looked wet and effortlessly unkempt. Additionally, some of the models wore their dresses, whether cut from wool or vibrantly colored checks, off the shoulder, which was chic and effortless. The ease of this collection made it wearable, approachable, and elegant.

f e r r a g a m o

Giornetti’s Fall 2013 collection can be described perfectly by the words simplicity, refinery, and severity and so the phrase “the elimination of the unnecessary,” comes to mind. Yet Giornetti was attempting to evoke the image of strength. The garments here put an emphasis on a sharp shoulder and creating the look of a strong body with clean, straight lines. He stuck to a color palette of black, navy, white, and grey so to allow the cut of his clothes to do the talking. Surface decoration was minimal, no need for lace and beading, simply alpaca and beaver fur to keep warm.

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THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

EXPLORE THE BEST THE FASHION CAPITAL HAS TO

OFFER WITH THIS MONTH’S GUIDE TO LIVING LIKE A

LOCAL

MILAN

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SIGHTS worth

SEEingGalleria Vittorio Emanuele II: The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is the world’s oldest shopping mall. This is the perfect place to shop before or after the runway shows due to the wide variety of product and vast price range. The Galleria is often nicknamed il salotto di Milano (Milan’s drawing room), thanks to its numerous boutiques and plethora of dining establishments. The Galleria principally contains luxury retailers selling haute couture, jewelry, books and paintings, as well as eclectic restaurants, cafés, and bars. This amazing mall is famous for being home to some of the oldest shops and restaurants in Milan, such as Biffi Caffè, the Savini restaurant, the silverware store Bernasconi and the Art Nouveau classic Zucca’s Bar.

La Scala: La Scala is a world-renowned opera house in Milan. One’s visit would not be complete without making your way to the theatre and tking in it’s incredible atmosphere. Originally known as the New Royal-Ducal Theatre at La Scala (Nuovo Regio Ducale Teatro alla Scala), most of Italy’s greatest operatic artists,

The Duomo: The Duomo is the world’s largest Gothic cathedral and the third largest church in Europe. Building it lasted nearly 500 years! Its marble facade is magnificent and to see its roof which has 135 spires and 3200 statues, you will have to climb the stairs or take the elevator. It is amazing to see all the statues up close.

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s t r e e t

s w a n kThe rain and snow did not put a damper on these Milan Fashion Week attendees. The fashion crowd faced the February chill with barelegged boldness, armed with fur, hats, embellishments, and sky-high stilettos. Take inspiration from their bright-hued beanie hats, black and white looks, colored fur, and animal prints.

You will always be right in black and white. The classic color combination was spotted all over the streets of Milan.

Milan Fashion week proved to be a huge moment for the beanie. The humble and affordable headgear was the hat of choice for the autumn/winter 2013 show season.

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s t r e e t

s w a n k

Milan fashion show goers were going wild over animal prints this season. Many were seen sporting the animal inspired trend.

Decadent furs are must when attending a Milan Fashion Week in February. This season, colored fur has resurfaced and was popping up everywhere.

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the

blondesalad

As her blog’s name implies, The Blonde Salad is a refreshing mix of fashion and lifestyle musings that every reader craves. From an expansive footwear collection to sweet street style photos, scrolling through Chiara Ferragni’s website is just as tempting as window-shopping on Madison Avenue in New York City.

Aside from her blogging success, this modern-day fashion icon is a full-time law student at Bocconi University in Milan as well as a popular shoe designer. The Blonde Salad gives an inside look at Chiara’s life and various loves, including travel, photography, and fashion, of course. Documenting everything from exclusive fashion presentations to intimate birthday parties, Chiara gives daily sneak peeks into her glamorous life.

Ferragni has used the success of the blog to partner with various fashion and beauty brands on products, often making fun and inspired online videos for her readers: most notably shooting shorts for Nike, Miss Dior, and Redken (where she was named the brand’s “Global Fashion Ambassador”). Not only restrained to the web, Ferragni’s street-style chic look has migrated from the pages of her blog onto the pages of high fashion magazines the world over. Her most recent features include L’Officiel Italia, Vogue Spain, Teen Vogue, Vogue Brazil, and Elle Mexico.

According to Ferragni, thirty percent of her read-ers are based in Italy, mainly from Milan and Rome, and the remaining come from the U.S., UK, France, Germany, Brazil and Japan. Less than two years af-ter its opening, averaging 110,000 views daily (more than 800,000 unique visitors and 12,000,000 impres-sions per month), The Blonde Salad’s vivacious per-sonality is sure to become your new favorite online favorite—if it hasn’t already.

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The Blonde Salad talks to LookBook about her love for Milan, her fashion inspirations, and her next must-have purchase: What are your greatest passions?I’d say fashion, photography, traveling and art in general

How did you first get interested in fashion and why is it important?My mum used to work in the fashion industry, for Blumarine. Since I was kid I looked at her dresses and accessories like they were treasures and I thought she looked like a princess all the time. I’ve always been interested in fashion, and I started sharing my outfits on the web 3 or 4 years ago uploading my photos on Flickr and then on LOOKBOOK.nu. I then started my blog in October 2009.

How do you describe the fashion scene in Milan compared to other major cities/fashion capitals?Italian people have an inner style, you can smell fashion in the air since fashion made in Italy is huge all over the world. :)

What do you love about living in Italy?I like so many things about my country; I’m very proud to be Italian. I like the food (too much :D), the cities, the history it has, the fashion system, the “Dolce Vita”, etc.

Top 3 places to visit in Italy:For sure Milan, Rome and Florence.

Describe your personal style and its influences / inspiration.I don’t have a unique style. I take inspirations from everything that surrounds me: it can be a movie, a song, a person that I saw on the streets, fashion shows, blogs and whatever. I just dress the way I feel that morning, choosing the clothes and accessories. One day I can be a rocker girl and one day later I’m the nerdy one. :) Everybody should dress the way that makes them feel comfortable with their bodies and proud of what they are. If you like those glitter shoes, wear them, and if you enjoy that fancy trench, buy it!

Favorite designers and places to shop?Alexander McQueen is my personal favourite. I also love Alexander Wang, Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh and for sure Dolce & Gabbana. I’m in love with vintage stores—I love that some of the clothes I own actually have a story behind them that makes them unique.

The first thing you look at in another person’s outfit is:The bag, they’re my mania!

What do you skimp on?Particular dresses, I usually buy them low cost because I love changing them all the time!

What do you splurge on?Designer bags and shoes, I have a lot and continue buying them, it’s a drug!

A fashion rule you never break:I usually don’t wear too many conflicting colours together.

What do you think is the most recent notable trend to appear/reappear, and what are your thoughts on it?I guess medium heels are coming back. Since I’m a huge fan of the highest heels I wasn’t sure I would have loved this trend, but when I saw some of the new Miu Miu shoe models they got me!

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What is the most underrated item in menswear and womenswear?Undershirts. I think they’re so sexy and I sometimes also wear them outside the house, worn with jeans or shorts.

What is your next “must have” pur-chase?I would love to get Dominic Jones’ leather nail gloves, they’re crazy!

Are there any fashion icons or fa-mous people whose style you ad-mire?I especially like looks from people in the streets or from other bloggers too, but I love Miroslava Duma, Alexa Chung, the Olsen twins and most of the models’ out of the cat-walks outfits. :)

What’s on your iPod / bookshelf / DVD player at the moment?On my iPod is Best of You by Foo Fighters, my favourite song ever, which really represents me. On my DVD player is Forrest Gump, and on my bookshelf there is a book about California cities, I wish to go back there as soon as possible!

What can’t you live without?I can’t live without love (and my love Richie), my camera, my ward-robe and of course without my dog-gie Matilda.

Next place you want to travel to:I wanna go back to California as soon as possible and stay there for a while. I also wanna see Sweden and Norway, and India and Japan…it’s better to say I wanna have a world tour soon. :D

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