CONSTRUCTING VICTORIAN DETAIL

WWW.SCHAEFFERARTS.COM/EMBELLISHMENTS

ASTRIDA SCHAEFFER

. . . trimmings are used with a profusion

that is little short of extravagant . . .

CONSTRUCTING VICTORIAN DETAIL

By Astrida SchaefferIntroduction by Kimberly Alexander, PhDPhotography by Lisa Nugent and Brian Smestad

Ruching, pleating, piping and more . . .

V ictorian couture holds a wealth of design ideas that are explored in depth in this lavish book. Lush, full length photographs of late nineteenth-century gowns are paired with intimate close-up views

of trim details, and step-by-step diagrams let the reader experience Victorian fashion in a whole new way.

Inspired by the 2012-2013 exhibition at the University of New Hampshire, this book showcases previously unpublished garments from the Irma Bowen Textile Collection. Each gown has been closely examined, taking advantage of places where threads have loosened over time to peer at the back side of trims, searching garment interiors, and studying fabric grain lines and seams for clues on construction.

To embellish something, to transform it with decoration and then add more, is at the core of the Victorian sense of beauty. Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail makes this aesthetic accessible for historic clothing and contemporary textile enthusiasts alike.

About the author: Astrida Schaeffer holds two Master's degrees and has been working with historic fashions and textiles for over twenty-five years as curator, mannequin maker, reproduction seamstress, researcher, and teacher.

Walking gown, c. 1883Silk taffeta

Accession Number 73

Wedding dress of Joanna Peterson, c. 1890Silk faille

Accession Number 2000.1

Wedding suit of Kate Lanmon Nims, 1909Worsted wool, silk velvet, and cording by Chandler &

Co. BostonAccession Number 72

left: Walking dress, c. 1880Silk, satin and taffetaAccession Number 57(quote from The Delineator, December 1894)

CONSTRUCTING VICTORIAN DETAIL

www.schaefferarts.com/embellishments

We seekSponsors to participate in this publication effort, with countless opportunities for underwriting and contribution, reaching national audiences in academic, textile, and artisan communities.

SponsorsSchaefferArts Costume & Exhibition CareGreat Life PressSilk Damask ConsultingUNH Center for the HumanitiesUniversity Museum, University of New HampshireThe Mechlinski Fund

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Tea gown, Maison Rouff, Paris, c. 1900Wool, silk satin ribbons, silk cord, silk net, laceAccession Number 177

Photography by permission of the University Museum, University of New Hampshire, courtesy Brian Smestad.

UNH Exhibition visitor comments:“Beautiful designs and excellent explanation of techniques”

“Who knew you could do so much with just a few materials! Amazing!”

“What a great new look at the Victorian age”

“Wonderful presentation and learning experience. Much appreciated!”

“A wonderful exhibit—beautifully displayed, well-written”

“Inspiring.”

“Very helpful for furthering my skills! Looking forward to the book.”

“Fabulous! Thoroughly enjoyed the historical info and presentation.”

“Wonderful to see the details.”

SchaefferArts Costume & Exhibition Care • 67 Meehan Lane • North Berwick, Maine 03906 • 603.674.7141