project on knitted fabric parametre

UNIVERSITY OF DHAKACOLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING &

ANALYSIS OF SPECIFICATIONS OF BASIC SINGLE JERSEY F ABRIC.

College of Textile Engineering & Technolog

SUBMITTED BY:

S/N NAME

01. FAISAL BIN ALAM

02. MIR ABDUL NIME

03.

04.

05.

06.

07.

08.

09.

10.

11.

12.

13.

UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA

COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING &

TECHNOLOGY

REPORT ON

PROJECT WORK


SUPERVISING TEACHER

SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN Assistant professor,

College of Textile Engineering & TechnologTejgaon, Dhaka-1208

ROLL NO REG NO

UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING &


College of Textile Engineering & Technology

SESSION

TO THOSE

WHO ARE INTERESTED TO LEARN

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

College of Textile Engineering & Technology has given us the opportunity to perform

the project work. We are obliged to MD. SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN, Assistant

professor, supervising Teacher of the college for giving us the opportunity to

accomplish of the project work.

We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude to Md. MASHUD

AHMED, principle in-charge for his kind co-operation.

Heartfelt thanks goes to Senior Textile Engineers of various industries (DBL,

MEGHNA, ESQUIRE, S.M KNITTING INDUSTRY.) from whom we collect the

sample.

Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our college

and especially of FMT department for their kind inspiration and help, which remain us

the backdrop of all our efforts.

Finally, we would like to convey our acknowledgement that we remain responsible for

the inadequacies and errors, which doubtless remain.

ABSTRACT

At first we collect some of knitted fabric samples along with required data which are

needed to commence our project work with effective analysis. We also separate the

fabrics according to their class so that we can establish an acceptable result which will

be perfect for effective use and will help to carry out further activities depending on the

established form of work.

During our industrial attachment we manage to watch carefully and effectively the

knitted fabric specification along with machine specification and the major factors

which are necessary to calculate different types of variation and variable on which the

whole fabric construction depends. Our efforts were to develop a dependable way so

that we can easily visualize or can forecast the resulting fabric specification with

required configuration.

We have tried our best to emphasize on the adjustable points on which fabric G.S.M.,

stitch length, fabric width, & compactness directly or indirectly depends. The theoretical

as well as the practical knowledge that we gathered from our classes and in the industry,

help us to perform our project with credit and for this we specially convey thanks to our

honorable teachers.

KEY WORD

1. G.S.M.

2. Yarn Count.

3. Stitch length.

4. Yarn Diameter.

5. Fabric Width.

6. Machine gauge.

7. Needle gauge.

8. Wales space.

9. Needle pitch.

CONTENTS

Chapter no Chapter name Page no

Chapter 1 General Introduction

Chapter 2 Literature review

Chapter 3 Terminology & definition

Chapter 4 Fabric specification

Chapter 5 Machine specification

Chapter 6 Result & discussion

Bibliography

Appendix

CHAPTER 1

GENERAL INTRODUCTION

Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibres and yarns that has substantial surface area

in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful

mechanical strength. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted but the term includes

assemblies produced by felting, lace making, net making, non woven processes and

tufting. Our project basically is on knitted fabric specification and machines which are

related to knitted fabric production.

A precise statement of a set of requirement to be satisfied by a materials, product, and

system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the

requirements is satisfied. In the analysis of woven fabric specification we consider ends

per inch, picks per inch, yarn count (warp & weft), and fabric width but in case of

knitted fabric specification GSM, stitch length are mainly considered.

The title of our project work is Analysis of knitted fabric specification and other related

machine specification. There are problem in our industries to produce knitted fabrics of

required G.S.M. Other specification like fabric width, fabric thickness is generally

maintained in industries by previous data sheet. For this reason there are problem if any

order comes which didn’t produced in previous.

Our target is to find out the easy process to get decision about yarn count selection, loop

length selection, machine Diameter selection & machine gauge selection.

We strongly think that by this process we can get decision about yarn count, loop

length, machine gauge, and machine diameter for the single jersey, Rib and interlock

fabric.

Aims of the project work are the following:

� Find out relation between yarn count and GSM.

� Find out the logic of selection of stitch length selection.

� Selection of machine diameter and machine gauge to get specific width of fabric.

� Find out the fabric width.

CHAPTER 2

LITERATURE REVIEW

GSM:

There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric. i.e. First formula is

GSM = 10001000

Tex 39.37 39.37 length Stitch inch per Course

×××××

GSM =WPI CPI SL(mm)

Count(Ne)

× ×x 0.9155

CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH:

We calculated the number of wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no

of total wales by 10 inch to getting the wales per inch.

CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH:

We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle.

Then we divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch.

MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH:

Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and

adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in coarse in course length and it is that

which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight. In order to determine

the stitch length, we count 100 no wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on

the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.

MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT:

We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a

considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and

measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn.

The equation we followed is as follow:

Count = n l 453.6

wt 36 840

× ×× ×

Where, n= number of yarn in bundle.

L= length of yarn.

Wt= weight of yarn.

MEASUREMENT OF GSM:

GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The

production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy

usable GSM testing instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter

is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So

100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM

reading.

Another formula is the following:

GSM = )( mmlengthStitch

TexKs ×

Where, Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is

calculated and estimated as below:

Ks = Tex

lengthStitchGSM ×

Fabric Type Color Value of Ks

Single jersey Average 19.55

Single lacoste Average 22.4

Double lacoste Average 22.75

Polo pique Average 25

Plain interlock Average 39.3

1×1 Rib Light 24.5

1×1 Rib Average 26.5

2×1 Rib Average 28.3

Flat back rib 81

3 Thread fleece 40.92

COMMENT:

It is very convenient to determine the stitch length against the required GSM by using the value

of Ks. We could not determine the value of Ks for other decorative fabric. It requires large time

and industry.

GSM DEPENDS ON:

1. TYPE OF YARN:

The main material for knitting process is yarn. The quality of knitted yarn should be like as

follows:

Paramete

rs

30/1 Cotton Combed

30/1 Cotton Carded 30/1 poly Cotton

Best Acceptable

limit

Best Acceptable

limit

Best Acceptable

limit

Uniformit

y %

9-9.5 9.7-10.2 11.5-12.1 12.8-13.5 9.5-9.8 10.4-10.7

Thin (-

50%)

0 3-5 16-22 50-60 2-3 7-10

Thick

(+50%)

7-12 32-43 75-90 250-300 15-20 34-42

Neps

(+200%)

38-47 73-88 140-175 300-380 30-45 48-58

Hairiness 4.0-

4.4

4.6-4.9 4.75-5.1 5.5-5.8 4-4.44 4.45-4.8

Tenacity

(CN/tex)

21.8-

22.6

18.4-18.9 16.7-17.6 16.2-15.4 25.5-24 23.4-22.1

Elongatio

n

6.7-

6.9

6.2-6.4 7.3-7.08 6.6-6.4 14.7-13.7 11.8-11.2

2. YARN COUNT:

The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given:

a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.

b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne.

c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne.

d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne.

e) Spandex: 40D, 70D.

f) Polyester: 75D, 150D.

g) Sewing thread: 40/2, 150D etc.

Other parameters are:

� Stitch length

� Fabric Structure.

� Finishing process.

� Depth of shade.

� Stitch density.

� Machine gauge.

RELATION BETWEEN YARN COUNT, FABRIC TYPE, STITCH LE NGTH AND

FINISH GSM:

Fabric Type Yarn count Stitch

length (mm)

Color

D×G

Finished

diameter

(inch)

Finished

GSM

Plain S/j 18s/1 2.94 White 26×24 30 220-230

,, 20s/1 2.98 White 30×24 33.5 200-210

,, 24s/1 2.68 White 30×24 32 175-185

,, 26s/1 2.66 White 30×24 31 160-170

,, 28s/1 2.70 Avg 26×24 25 150-160

,, 30s/1 2.68 Avg 30×24 30 130-140

,, 34s/1 2.40 Avg 26×24 24 125-135

,, 40s/1 2.44 Avg 24×24 20 100-110

Single

lacost

18s/1 3.00 Avg 30×24 46 245-255

,, 24s/1 2.64 Avg 30×24 40 210-215

,, 26s/1 2.60 Avg 30×24 36 200-210

,, 30s/1 2.50 Avg 30×24 33 180-190

1 × 1 Rib 26s/1 2.50 Avg 41 240

,, 24s/1 2.75 Avg 30×18 64 235

,, 26s/1 2.54 Avg 40×18 40 245

,, 26s/1 2.55 Avg 40×18 47 235

,, 26s/1 2.65 Avg 32×18 32 230

,, 36s/1 2.65 Avg 32×18 33 170

,, 24s/1 2.95 Avg 34×18 32 220

,, 24s/1 2.90 Avg 40×18 38 225

,, 28s/1 2.40 Avg 30×24 38.5 232

2 × 1 Rib 34s/1 2.60 Avg 40×18 23 190

,, 34s/1 2.70 Avg 32×18 20 185

1 × 1 lycra

rib

20s/1 +40D 3.30 Avg 36×18 32 320

,, 24s/1 +40D 3.00 Avg 30×18 30 280

,, 26s/1 +40D 2.90 Avg 30×18 30 260

,, 28s/1 +40D 2.80 Avg 30×18 30 250

,, 30s/1 +70D 2.60 Avg 32×20 28 260

,, 34s/1 +70D 2.44 Avg 30×18 26 240

2 × 2 rib 40s/1 2.76 Avg 30×20 35T 160

,, 28s/1 2.87 Avg 34×18 32T 260

,, 26s/1 3.25 Avg 34×18 31T 205

,, 24s/1 3.50 Avg 34×18 31.5T 285

,, 20s/1 3.25 Avg 34×20 55OP 260

2 × 2 lycra

rib

20s/1 +40D 3.10 Avg 30×18 18T 390

,, 24s/1 +40D 2.90 Avg 30×18 18T 320

,, 30s/1 +70D 2.90 Avg 240

,, 30s/1 +40D 2.98 Avg 240

,, 30s/1 +40D 2.80 Avg 30×18 220

Fleece 26s/1GM +

24s/1 c

2.78 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 220

,, 26s/1GM +

26s/1 c

2.78 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 220

,, 26s/1GM +

24s/1 c

2.85 + 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 240

,, 26s/1GM +

20s/1 c

2.90+ 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 220

,, 28s/1GM +

28s/1 c

2.8 + 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 235

,, 30s/1GM +

26s/1 c

2.8 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 175

By the following three tables, we can summarize the above data:

FOR SINGLE JERSEY:

Finished GSM Count Finished Diameter

140 30/1 Machine dia = Finished dia

160 26/1 Machine dia +1 = Finished dia

180 24/1 Machine dia + 2 = Finished dia



N.B: If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than the

normal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing the

floating fibre and hairy fibre.

For light color, the finished GSM varies 1-2% from grey GSM.

For average color, the finished GSM varies 2-4%

If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia but also yarn

tension & take-up roller.

COMMENT (Reference 1):

1. It is very distinct from these tables that there is no proof that these values are true, as they are not actual or experimental and they have taken these values from the mill and factory.

2. They have determined the value of count by beesleys balance. We never give the value of count in fraction but by our method we find that the value of count is most of the time is fraction.

From our project work we manage to find the following equations for the selection of yarn

count to get required G.S.M. equations vary for fabric types, fabric construction. List of

equations are tabulated below:

Name of the fabrics Equations

Single jersey Yarn count = - 0.141 GSM + 50.22

Pique Yarn count = - 0.146 GSM + 57.16

Double lacoste Yarn count = - 0.167 GSM + 64.36

1 x 1 Rib Yarn count = - 0.123 GSM + 54.57

Lycra 1 x 1 Rib Yarn count = - 0.119 GSM + 59.12

Lycra 2 x 2 Rib Yarn count = - 0.108 GSM + 56.62

Interlock Yarn count = - 0.206 GSM + 80.56

EQUATIONS FOR GETTING REQUIRED GSM FROM THE SPECIFI C YARN

COUNT:

Fabric Equations

Single jersey GSM = -6.879yarn count + 350.4

Lycra single jersey GSM = -4.9716 yarn count + 354.56

Pique GSM = -6.6737 yarn count + 386.44

1 1 Rib GSM = -7.9731 yarn count + 437.66

Lycra 1 1 Rib GSM = -8.2839 yarn count + 494.08

Lycra 2 2 Rib GSM = -9.1216 yarn count + 519.05

Interlock GSM = -4.778 yarn count + 388.41

EQUATION FOR DETERMINING FABRIC WIDTH:

Fabric width = No. of wales X Wales space.

=No. of needle X Wales space.

= dgΠ X Wales space

Where,

d = Cylinder diameter.

g = Gauge.

FOR CALCULATING YARN DIAMETER:

Texdα

Cotton 7.26

FormmTex

d =

Ned

1α

Ned

91.0=

Relation among GSM, stitch length and yarn count can be derived from the following equation:

( ) variableareboth length Stitch andcount Yarn When length Stitch count Yarn

1

×αGSM

K G.S.M. length Loopcount Yarn =××∴

Where K is a Constant.

K which can be derived as follows:

CONSTANT AT A GLANCE:

Fabric Constant

Sinlgle jersey plain 12068.509

Double Lacoste 14855.2

1 X 1 Rib 16431.497

2 X 1 Rib 19005.333

Interlock 24013.8

Wales space = 4d; [where d is the yarn diameter]

Minimum stitch length = 14d

FABRIC THICKNESS:

In the fully relaxed state the fabric thickness for double jersey,

t= 4d

For single jersey,

t = 2d

COMMENT (Reference 2):

1. It is understandable that gauge is an important factor for fabric width but actually the width of fabric is dependent upon the number of needle present in the machine. Often the number of needle present in the machine is not equal to dgΠ . So the equation should only be like following:

COMMENT (Reference 3): Different properties were found in Different knit structures according to stitch length, stitch density that means wales per inch, course per inch. Shortly they told loose structure that means higher loop length gives less GSM on fabric & compact structure that means shorter loop length gives high GSM on fabric. In their project analysis, they observed that single jersey plain structure & 1×1 plain rib structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is too small. But in single lacoste & polo-pique structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is high. Because single lacoste & polo-pique structure are made by combination of knit & tuck loops. They also analyzed that one knit loop consumes 30% more yarn than tuck loop. So calculated GSM is higher in single lacoste & polo-pique structure than single jersey plain structure & 1×1 plain rib structure. In general, the angle of spirality values decreases when the tightness factor values gets higher that is decrease of loop length in all knitted samples. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop can easily find an area to rotate & spirality increases. The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the fabrics knitted with open end yarns. This shows the effect of the spirality on twist liveliness. Fabric shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e.; single jersey, rib, interlock & their derivatives, yarn composition i.e.; 100% cotton, cotton & polyester & synthetic yarn.

CHAPTER 3

TERMINOLOGY & DEFINITION

TERMINOLOGY AND DEFINITION OF DIFFERENT KEYWORDS AR E

DISCUSSED BELOW:

WALES PER INCH:

Wales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very important

for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties.

COURSES PER INCH:

Courses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch. It is also very

important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM.

STITCH LENGTH:

Stitch length is theoretically is a single length of yarn which include one needle

loop and half the length of Yarn (half of a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the

adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exists in course in course length and it is that

which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

YARN COUNT:

Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn.

Yarn count is calculated in two systems:

a. Direct system

b. Indirect system

They are described below:

Direct system:

In this system the count lf yarn express the no. wt. units in one length unit. In direct system

“higher the count, coarser the yarn” This system is used for thrown silk, artificial silk, jute etc

and count calculation formula is the following:

Count = Lw

lW

××

Here, W = weight of sample.

L = length of sample.

w = unit weight in system.

l = unit length in system.

Indirect system:

In this system the count of yarn express the no of unit length per unit weight. In this system

higher the yarn count finer the yarn. It is generally used for cotton, worsted, woolen, linen etc

and the yarn count calculation formula is the following:

Count = lW

wL

××

Here, W = weight of sample.

L = length of sample.

w = unit weight in system.

l = unit length in system.

GSM:

GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.

Fabric area density:

Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,

Area density = 100

TlS ×× gm/m2

Here, T = Tex,

S = Stitch density,

l = Stitch length.

Fabric width:

Fabric width can be calculated by the following formula:

Fabric width = Kw

length Stitch length course ×

= Kw

length Stitch ××× Gdπ

Where, Stitch length is in cm

D = Machine diameter,

G = Machine Gauge and

Kw = 38 (for dry relaxed state)

= 41 (for wet relaxed state)

= 42.2 (for finished relaxed stat

CHAPTER 4

FABRIC SPECIFICATION

Elements of Specification:

1. GSM.

2. Loop length.

3. Yarn count.

4. Fabric width.

1. G.S.M:

The weight of fabric in gm per square meter is called G.S.M.

FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR REQUIRED G.S.M:

Yarn Count (English count):

Through our project work we manage to find out the following relation between

yarn count and G.S.M: i.e.

GSM ( )same islength Stitch When count Yarn

1 α ………….(1)

GSM ( ) same iscount Yarn When length Loop

1 α ………….(2)

From the equation (1) & (2) we get,

GSM ( ) variableareboth length Stitch andcount Yarn When length Stitch count Yarn

1

×α

K G.S.M. length Loopcount Yarn =××∴

Where K = Constant.

K varies for the single jersey with different gsm, count, and loop length.

CONSTANT FOR SINGLE JERSEY FROM COLLECTED FABRIC (R ef-Appendix): S/N GSM SL COUNT EQUATION AVERAGE STD

DVE CV

1. 122.488 2.664324 37.777 12328.44

12083.96

946.3509

7.831462

2. 127.038 2.965405 31.6278 11914.8 3. 135.77 2.319347 32.92 10366.43 4. 141.36 3.046935 31.8744 13728.77 5. 144.5 2.698962 30.87 12039.3 6. 148 2.610811 28.8 11128.32 7. 153 2.701087 30 12397.99 8. 155.22 2.881429 27.12405 12131.38 9. 163.715 2.880883 26.97 12720.23

ACTUAL PRACTICING OF CONSTANT VALUE IN THE INDUSTRY : Type Ne Max

GSM

Min GSM

GSM

S/L (mm)

Constant K

Avg Std CV%

Single jersey

20 220 200 220 2.85 12540 12047.625

334.9383774

2.780119546

210 3.00 12600

200 3.10 12400

24 190 160 190 2.70 12312

180 2.85 12312

170 3.00 12240

160 3.15 12096

26 170 150 170 2.75 12155

160 2.90 12064

150 3.00 11700

28 155 140 155 2.70 11718

150 2.80 11760

140 2.95 11564

30 150 130 150 2.65 11925

140 2.80 11676

130 3.00 11700

Deflection = 12083.96 12047.625

10012047.625

− ×

= 0.3%

ACTUAL DETERMINATION OF FABRIC GSM AND YARN COUNT F ROM THE COLLECTED FABRIC:

S/N COUNT G.S.M

01. 36.74 116

02. 32.13 134.33

03. 30.87 172.33

04. 37.77 121.33

05. 31.63 139.33

06. 28.8 142.63

07. 27.12 176.67

08. 35.29 154.33

09. 29.99 165.33

10. 26.97 168.33

11. 32.13 134.33

12. 32.92 139.33

13. 25.57 181.67

14. 22.71 138.33

GRAPH SHOWN THE RELATION BETWEEN THE COUNT AND THE GSM: Yarn Count (y)

By taking two points from the straight line, we can find the following equation:

(i) (116,36.74) (181.67,25.57)

( 116)11.1736.74, 65.67

116 36.74 ( 116)116 181.67 36.74 25.54

116 36.74

65.67 11.17( 36.74)( 65.67)

11611.17

5.88 216 116

332 5.88

From

xyx GSM y Count

x y x

x y

yx

x y

x y

−= += = −− − = −=− −− −

⇒ =−

− −⇒ = +

⇒ = − + +⇒ = −

( 0.17) 36.74

( 0.17 ) 19.72 36.74

56 0.17

:

, 30

332 5.88 30 155.6

x

y x

Example

Count y

GSM

− += − + +

= −

== − × =

2. FABRIC WIDTH:

Along the fabric width there presents the wales. The total no. of needle is fixed for the same

cylinder having the equal gauge as well as diameter.

Fabric width = No. of wales X Wales space.

=Total no of needle in the machine X Wales space.

The above concepts clarify that Fabric width closely depends on total no. of needle not directly

related to machine diameter or machine gauge.

WALES SPACE:

The space covered by a wale is called wale space for that wale.

Wales space depends on:

a. Yarn diameter.

b. Loop length.


1. YARN DIAMETER:

From the experiment it is seen that yarn diameter decreases with the increases of yarn

count. The count which are generally used in circular knitting machine in Bangladesh

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

0 20 40 60 80

yarn count

yarn

dia

met

er

yarn dia

For English count

(20 to 40) the rate of decrease is generally slow than that of below 20 count in which the

rate of increase of yarn count is higher or it increase rapidly.

When the loop length is minimum, the leg of loop comes in close contact with each

other and there is no free space among left, middle and right zone of interloping area.

Fig.: Impact of yarn diameter on free space in interlooping area

Under the circumstance the wales space will be less than four times of yarn diameter.

COMMENT: In case of minimum loop length there is no space left in interloping area.

i.e. stretched due to tension the wales space become less than 4d (d is the yarn diameter)

When loop length is increased the space into the interloping area i.e. the zone a, b & c

are increased as a result wales space becomes wider. It may be upto 5.2d (depending on

the collected data)

d d d d Wales space = d+d+d+d = 4d When loop length is minm

Left Zone x

Middle Zone y

Right Zone z

Interloping Area

ACTUAL VALUE OF RATIO OF WALES SPACE AND DIA OF YAR N:

Count Wales space(mm)

Yarn dia(inch)

Yarn dia(mm)

Ratio Average

18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647

3.97625

18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647 18 0.889808917 0.008417938 0.213815622 4.161571119 18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647 18 0.889808917 0.008417938 0.213815622 4.161571119 18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647 24 0.73027247 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.943799834 24 0.73537927 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.971378851 24 0.73537927 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.971378851 24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336 24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336 24 0.702185067 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.792115223 24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336 24 0.696567587 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.761778304 24 0.674097665 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.640430618 24 0.73027247 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.943799834 30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036 30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036 30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036 30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165 30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165 30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165

COMMENT: It’s clear from the chart that, the ratio of yarn dia to wales space is very near of 4. So we can say that one wales occupy 4d space, where d is the yarn diameter.

So, from the above chart, we found the relation between the yarn count and the WPI as follow,

WPI = 28 Ne

4

×

TABLE SHOWS THE ACTUAL WPI IN ACCORDANCE TO THE COU NT:

Count Wales space(mm)

Wales space(inch)

WPI Avg Std Cv%

18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4

30.44848

1.474081

4.841229 18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4 18 0.889808917 0.035031847 28.54545 18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4 18 0.889808917 0.035031847 28.54545 18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4 24 0.73027247 0.028750885 34.78154

35.42579

1.024035

2.890649

24 0.73537927 0.02895194 34.54 24 0.73537927 0.02895194 34.54 24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918 24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918 24 0.702185067 0.027645081 36.1728 24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918 24 0.696567587 0.027423921 36.46452 24 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68 24 0.73027247 0.028750885 34.78154 30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875

37.18937

0.537453

1.445178 30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875 30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875 30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68 30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68 30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68

COMMENT: From the above chart, we came to the decision that WPI the equation as follows:

WPI = 28 Ne

4

×

CHAPTER 5 MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MACHINE SPECIFICATION:

1. Machine gauge.

2. Machine Diameter.

3. Needle gauge.


1. MACHINE GAUGE:

No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting machine is called machine

gauge for that knitting machine.

A term giving a notational indication of the no. of needles per unit length along a

needle bed or needle bar of a knitting machine in current practice, a common unit

length of one English inch (25.4mm) is used for all types of warp and weft knitting

machine.

Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter depends

upon the following:

1. Yarn count

2. Fibre type

3. Yarn twist

4. Yarn finished

General practice of yarn count and machine gauge in different industries in

Bangladesh given below:

TYPICAL SELECTION OF M/C GAUGE FOR DIFFERENT COUNT YARN:

M/C Gauge Ne

18 14.0/1 – 23.5/1 20 18.0/1 – 26.0/1 22 21.5/1 – 29.5/1 24 23.5/1 – 35.5/1 26 26.0/1 – 41.5/1 28 29.5/1 – 47.5/1 30 35.5/1 – 59.0/1 32 41.5/1 – 70.0/1

2. MACHINE DIAMETER:

Machine diameter is mainly diameter of cylinder. It is important for fabric width. Only

diameter does not determine the fabric width. It need helps machine gauge and wales

space which is depend upon yarn count and loop length.

MACHINE DIAMETER SELECTION: S/N Count

(Ne) Gauge WPI Fabric found from 1

inch machine perimeter

Percentage of fabric found

X% 1 18 20 31 0.64516129 64.51612903 2 18 24 31 0.774193548 77.41935484 3 20 20 31.5 0.634920635 63.49206349 4 20 24 31.5 0.761904762 76.19047619 5 22 20 33 0.606060606 60.60606061 6 22 24 33 0.727272727 72.72727273 7 22 28 33 0.848484848 84.84848485 8 24 20 35 0.571428571 57.14285714 9 24 24 35 0.685714286 68.57142857 10 24 28 35 0.8 80 11 26 20 36 0.555555556 55.55555556 12 26 24 36 0.666666667 66.66666667 13 26 28 36 0.777777778 77.77777778 14 28 20 37 0.540540541 54.05405405 15 28 24 37 0.648648649 64.86486486 16 28 28 37 0.756756757 75.67567568 17 30 20 38 0.526315789 52.63157895 18 30 24 38 0.631578947 63.15789474 19 30 28 38 0.736842105 73.68421053 20 32 20 40 0.5 50 21 32 24 40 0.6 60 22 32 28 40 0.7 70 23 34 20 41 0.487804878 48.7804878 24 34 24 41 0.585365854 58.53658537 25 34 28 41 0.682926829 68.29268293 26 36 20 42 0.476190476 47.61904762 27 36 24 42 0.571428571 57.14285714 28 36 28 42 0.666666667 66.66666667

29 38 20 43 0.465116279 46.51162791 30 38 24 43 0.558139535 55.81395349 31 38 28 43 0.651162791 65.11627907 32 40 20 44 0.454545455 45.45454545 33 40 24 44 0.545454545 54.54545455 34 40 28 44 0.636363636 63.63636364

So, the machine dia for particular fabric dia is = Fabric dia

X% X 100

X = percentage of fabric found in relation to The m/c perimeter.

So, the relation between the machine dia and the machine dia is = 7 x Fabric dia Ne

M/C Gauge

×

Again, the relation can be inversely shown that,

Fabric dia (Tubular) = Machine dia M/C Gauge

7 Ne

××

For example, if the machine dia is 32”, yarn count 24Ne, and the machine gauge is 24

then the fabric dia will be = 32 24

7 24

××

= 22.4 inch.

GRAPH SHOWN THE RELATION BETWEEN THE COUNT AND THE WPI:

COUNT FIG: Relation between the yarn count and the wpi.

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

0 10 20 30 40 50

WPI

WPI

3. NEEDLE GAUGE:

Thickness of needle express by the needle gauge. It is important for selection of

machine gauge. Needle gauge is different for the different gauge and different Brand.

Some needle gauge found in industries is given below:

Machine gauge Needle thickness in

(mm)

24 0.52

28 0.41

CHAPTER 6

RESULT & DICUSSION

From our project work we manage to find the following equations for the

selection of yarn count to get required G.S.M. equations vary for fabric types,

fabric construction. List of equations are tabulated below:

The constant for the plain single jersey is as follow:

K (Yarn count X stitch length X GSM) = 12083.96

Relation between the fabric GSM and the yarn count:

if the GSM of the fabric is “x” and the count of yarn is “y”, then the equation for

determining GSM and the Yarn count is as follows:

GSM, x = 332 – 5.88y &

Yarn count(Ne), y = 56 – 0.17x

Machine diameter selection:

The relation between the Fabric dia and the Machine dia is = 7 x Fabric dia Ne

M/C Gauge

×

Again, the relation can be inversely shown that,

Fabric dia (Tubular) = Machine dia M/C Gauge

7 Ne

××

Bibliography

1. Knitting technology

By – Devid J. Spencer

2. Handbook of Technical Textile

By – Horrocks & Anand

3. Textile Terms & Definitions

By – J E Mclintyre

4. Circular knitting

5. Knitting calculation

6. Reference 1(Project On Analysis of knitted fabric specification and

related machine specification)

7. Reference 2 (Project On Analysis of knitted fabric specification and

related machine specification)

8. Reference 3 (Project On analysis of weft knitted fabric specifications and

properties)

APPENDIX

S/

L

N

O

SAMPL

E NO

CPI WPI STITCH LENGTH COUNT GSM

CACULATE

D GSM

DEFELECTION

% OF ACTUAL

GSM FROM

CAL GSM

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO. OF

COURS

E CPI

AVG

CPI

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO.

OF

WALE

S WPI

AVG

WPI

LENGT

H OF

YARN

NO

OF

WALE

S S.L

AVG

S.L

LENGT

H OF

EACH

YARN

NO

OF

YAR

N

TOTAL

LENGT

H

TOTAL

WEIGH

T

COUN

T

AVG

COUN

T

GS

M

AVG

GSM

UNIT INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI

T INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI

T MM UNIT MM MM INCH

UNI

T INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %

1

1 1

53 53

53.1 9

289 34

34

775 289

2.68

2

2.69

9

27 10 270 0.14 28.93

30.87

170

172.3

3 144.5 19.23%

2 54 54 289 34 785

289

2.71

6

3 52 52 289 34 785

289

2.71

6

4 54 54 289 34 775

289

2.68

2

175 5 53 53 289 34

775 289

2.68

2

6 53 53 289 34 775

289

2.68

2

35 10 350 0.16 32.81

7 54 54 289 34 785

289

2.71

6

8 52 52 289 34 785

289

2.71

6

172 9 53 53 289 34

775 289

2.68

2

10 53 53 289 34 785

289

2.71

6

1

2 1

52 52

50.9 10

372 37

37

988 372

2.65

6

2.66

4 34 20 680 0.27 37.78 37.78

120

121.3

3 122.5 (-)0.945%

2 50 50 376 38 1010

376

2.68

6

3 50 50 373 37 991

373

2.65

7

4 51 51 372 37 988

372

2.65

6

127 5 51 51 373 37

991 373

2.65

7

6 52 52 372 37 991

372

2.66

4

7 51 51 372 37 996

372

2.67

7

8 50 50 373 37 991

373

2.65

7

117 9 52 52 372 37

993 372

2.66

9

10 50 50 372 37 991

372

2.66

4

S/

L

N

O

SAMPL

E NO


CACULATE

D GSM

DEFELECTION%

OF ACTUAL

GSM FROM

CAL GSM

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO. OF

COURS

E CPI

AVG

CPI

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO.

OF

WALE

S WPI

AVG

WPI

LENGT

H OF

YARN

NO

OF

WALE

S S.L

AVG

S.L

LENGT

H OF

EACH

YARN

NO

OF

YAR

N

TOTAL

LENGT

H

TOTAL

WEIGH

T

COUN

T

AVG

COUN

T

GS

M

AVG

GSM

UNIT INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI

T INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI

T MM UNIT MM MM INCH UNIT INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %

1

3 1

43 43

40 10

370 37

37

1100 370

2.97

3

2.96

5

24 18 432 0.2 32.4

31.63

139

139.3

3 127 9.68%

2 40 40 370 37 1105

370

2.98

6

3 40 40 370 37 1100

370

2.97

3

4 40 40 370 37 1095

370

2.95

9

140 5 39 39 370 37

1097 370

2.96

5

6 40 40 370 37 1095

370

2.95

9

24 18 432 0.21 30.86

7 40 40 370 37 1095

370

2.95

9

8 39 39 370 37 1093

370

2.95

4

139 9 40 40 370 37

1097 370

2.96

5

10 39 39 370 37 1095

370

2.95

9

1

4 1

48 48

48.

2 5

185 37

37

483 185

2.61

1

2.61

1

12 16 192 0.1 28.8

28.8

144

142.6

7 148 (-)4.05%

2 49 49 185 37 485

185

2.62

2

3 49 49 185 37 485

185

2.62

2

4 49 49 185 37 486

185

2.62

7

142 5 48 48 185 37

485 185

2.62

2

6 47 47 185 37 484

185

2.61

6

12 16 192 0.1 28.8

7 48 48 185 37 480

185

2.59

5

8 49 49 185 37 480

185

2.59

5

142 9 47 47 185 37

480 185

2.59

5

10 48 48 185 37 482

185

2.60

5

s/L no

SAMPLE NO


CACULATED GSM

DEFELECTION% OF ACTUAL

GSM FROM CAL GSM

LENGTH OF

FABRIC

NO. OF

COURSE CPI

AVG

CPI

LENGTH OF

FABRIC

NO. OF

WALES

WPI

AVG

WPI

LENGTH OF

YARN

NO OF

WALES S.L

AVG S.L

LENGTH OF

EACH

YARN

NO OF YARN

TOTAL

LENGTH

TOTAL

WEIGHT

COUNT

AVG COUNT GSM

AVG GSM

UNIT INCH UNIT UNIT

UNIT INCH UNIT

UNIT

UNIT MM UNIT MM MM

INCH

UNIT INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %

1

3 1

43 43

40 10

370 37

37

1100 370 2.973

2.965

24 18 432 0.2 32.4

31.63

139

139.33

127 9.68%

2 40 40 370 37 1105 370 2.986

3 40 40 370 37 1100 370 2.973

4 40 40 370 37 1095 370 2.959

140 5 39 39 370 37 1097 370 2.965

6 40 40 370 37 1095 370 2.959

24 18 432 0.21 30.86

7 40 40 370 37 1095 370 2.959

8 39 39 370 37 1093 370 2.954

139 9 40 40 370 37 1097 370 2.965

10 39 39 370 37 1095 370 2.959

1

4 1

48 48

48.2

5

185 37

37

483 185 2.611

2.611

12 16 192 0.1 28.8

28.8

144

142.67

148 (-)4.05%

2 49 49 185 37 485 185 2.622

3 49 49 185 37 485 185 2.622

4 49 49 185 37 486 185 2.627

142 5 48 48 185 37 485 185 2.622

6 47 47 185 37 484 185 2.616

12 16 192 0.1 28.8

7 48 48 185 37 480 185 2.595

8 49 49 185 37 480 185 2.595

142 9 47 47 185 37 480 185 2.595

10 48 48 185 37 482 185 2.605

S/

L

N

O

SAMPL

E NO


CACULATE

D GSM

DEFELECTION

% OF ACTUAL

GSM FROM

CAL GSM

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO. OF

COURS

E CPI

AVG

CPI

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO.

OF

WALE

S WPI

AVG

WPI

LENGT

H OF

YARN

NO

OF

WALE

S S.L

AVG

S.L

LENGT

H OF

EACH

YARN

NO

OF

YAR

N

TOTAL

LENGT

H

TOTAL

WEIGH

T

COUN

T

AVG

COUN

T

GS

M

AVG

GSM

UNIT INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI

T INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI


1

5 1

42 42

42.

6 5

180 36

36

375 180

2.08

3

2.09

7

12 10 120 0.05 36

36.75

113

116 80.13 44.77%

2 44 44 180 36 375

180

2.08

3

3 43 43 180 36 365

180

2.02

8

4 43 43

180 36 390

180

2.16

7

115 5 42 42 180 36

380 180

2.11

1

6 42 42 180 36 375

180

2.08

3

15 10 150 0.06 37.5

7 43 43 180 36 380

180

2.11

1

8 43 43 180 36 375

180

2.08

3

120 9 42 42 180 36

380 180

2.11

1

10 42 42 180 36 380

180

2.11

1

1

6 1

46 46

45.

6 10

350 35

35

1012 350

2.89

1

2.88

1

29 19 551 0.32 25.83

27.12

176

176.6

7 155.2 13.82%

2 45 45 350 35 1010

350

2.88

6

3 48 48 350 35 1008 350 2.88

4 44 44 350 35 1008 350 2.88

176

5 46 46 350 35 1008 350 2.88

6 45 45 350 35 1000

350

2.85

7

36 20 720 0.38 28.42

7 46 46 350 35 1006

350

2.87

4

8 45 45 350 35 1010

350

2.88

6

177 9 45 45 350 35 1015 350 2.9

10 46 46 350 35 1008 350 2.88

S/L

NO

SAMPL

E NO


CACULAT

ED GSM

DEFELECTIO

N% OF

ACTUAL

GSM FROM

CAL GSM

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO. OF

COURS

E CPI

AVG

CPI

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO.

OF

WALE

S WPI

AVG

WPI

LENGT

H OF

YARN

NO

OF

WALE

S S.L

AVG

S.L

LENGT

H OF

EACH

YARN

NO

OF

YAR

N

TOTAL

LENGT

H

TOTAL

WEIGH

T

COUN

T

AVG

COUN

T GSM

AVG

GSM

UNIT INCH UNIT UNIT UNIT INCH UNIT UNIT

UNI


1

7 1

47 47

47.1 10

367 37

37

1110 367

3.02

5

3.02

5 40 20 800 0.34 35.29 35.29

153

154.3

3 135.6 13.80%

2 47 47 367 37 1110

367

3.02

5

3 46 46 367 37 1110

367

3.02

5

4 47 47 367 37 1110

367

3.02

5

155 5 48 48 367 37

1110 367

3.02

5

6 47 47 367 37 1110

367

3.02

5

7 48 48 367 37 1110

367

3.02

5

8 47 47 367 37 1110

367

3.02

5

155 9 47 47 367 37

1110 367

3.02

5

10 47 47 367 37 1110

367

3.02

5

1

8 1

51 51

51 10

368 37

37

995 368

2.70

4

2.70

1 36 20 720 0.36 30 30

166

165.3

3 153 8%

2 51 51 368 37 994

368

2.70

1

3 51 51 368 37 995

368

2.70

4

4 51 51 368 37 995

368

2.70

4

165 5 51 51 368 37

992 368

2.69

6

6 51 51 368 37 993

368

2.69

8

7 51 51 368 37 994

368

2.70

1

8 51 51 368 37 995

368

2.70

4

165 9 51 51 368 37

994 368

2.70

1

10 51 51 368 37 993

368

2.69

8

S/L

NO

SAM

PLE

NO


CACULAT

ED GSM

DEFELECTION%

OF ACTUAL

GSM FROM CAL

GSM

LENGT

H OF

FABRI

C

NO. OF

COURS

E CPI

AVG

CPI

LENGT

H OF

FABRI

C

NO.

OF

WALE

S WPI

AVG

WPI

LENGT

H OF

YARN

NO

OF

WALE

S S.L

AVG

S.L

LENGT

H OF

EACH

YARN

NO

OF

YARN

TOTAL

LENGT

H

TOTAL

WEIGH

T

COUN

T

AVG

COUN

T GSM

AVG

GSM

UNIT INCH UNIT UNIT

UNI

T INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI


1

9 1

79 79

80.

3 10

290 29

29

780 290 2.69

2.68

8

27 12 326 0.19 25.77

25.18

217

216.6

7 227.7 (-)4.85%

2 80 80 289 29 777

289

2.68

9

3 78 78 289 29 777

289

2.68

9

4 81 81 292 29 786

292

2.69

2

216 5 82 82 291 29 783

291

2.69

1

6 79 79 289 29 777

289

2.68

9

28 13 361 0.22 24.6

7 80 80 290 29 780 290 2.69

8 83 83 289 29 777

289

2.68

9

217 9 80 80 289 29

777 289

2.68

9

10 81 81 290 29 777

290

2.67

9

1

10 1

46 46

46.

4 5

182 36

36

523 182

2.87

4

2.88

1

40 12 480 0.27 26.67

26.97

168

168.3

3 163.7 2.82%

2 47 47 180 36 518

180

2.87

8

3 47 47 183 37 525

183

2.86

9

4 46 46 182 36 524

182

2.87

9

169 5 47 47 181 36

520 181

2.87

3

6 46 46 179 36 520

179

2.90

5

40 10 400 0.22 27.27

7 46 46 178 36 515

178

2.89

3

8 47 47 179 36 516

179

2.88

3

168 9 46 46 180 36

518 180

2.87

8

10 46 46 180 36 518

180

2.87

8

S/

L

N

O

SAMPL

E NO


CACULATE

D GSM

DEFELECTION%

OF ACTUAL

GSM FROM

CAL GSM

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO. OF

COURS

E CPI

AVG

CPI

LENGT

H OF

FABRIC

NO.

OF

WALE

S WPI

AVG

WPI

LENGT

H OF

YARN

NO

OF

WALE

S S.L

AVG

S.L

LENGT

H OF

EACH

YARN

NO

OF

YAR

N

TOTAL

LENGT

H

TOTAL

WEIGH

T

COUN

T

AVG

COUN

T

GS

M

AVG

GSM

UNIT INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI

T INCH UNIT

UNI

T

UNI


1

11

1

43 43

42.

7 10

383 38

38

1166 383

3.04

4

3.04

7

20 16 324 0.15 32.4

32.14

135

134.3

3 141.4 (-)4.97%

2 42 42 379 38 1155

379

3.04

7

3 43 43 384 38 1170

384

3.04

7

4 44 44 379 38 1155

379

3.04

7

133 5 43 43 383 38

1167 383

3.04

7

6 42 42 380 38 1158

380

3.04

7

43 10 425 0.2 31.87

7 43 43 380 38 1158

380

3.04

7

8 42 42 383 38 1167

383

3.04

7

135 9 43 43 379 38

1155 379

3.04

7

10 42 42 384 38 1170

384

3.04

7

1

12

1

51 51

52.

5 10

398 40

40

927 398

2.32

9

2.31

9

35 10 345 0.16 32.34

32.92

140

139.3

3 135.8 2.62%

2 53 53 398 40 927

398

2.32

9

3 53 53 398 40 915

398

2.29

9

4 52 52 398 40 915

398

2.29

9

140 5 53 53 398 40

915 398

2.29

9

6 53 53 398 40 921

398

2.31

4

34 10 335 0.15 33.5

7 52 52 398 40 935

398

2.34

9

8 53 53 398 40 921

398

2.31

4

138 9 52 52 398 40

915 398

2.29

9

10 53 53 398 40 940

398

2.36

2

project on knitted fabric parametre

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Transcript of project on knitted fabric parametre