PRODUCT QUALITY IMPROVEMENT BY PROPER YARN …

PRODUCT QUALITY IMPROVEMENT BY PROPER YARN SELECTION: A CASE

STUDY OF A KNIT GARMENT

by

Shariful Alam

A project submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of

Engineering in Advanced Engineering Management

Department of Industrial and Production Engineering

Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology

September 2014

CERTIFICATE OF APPROVAL

The Project titled “PRODUCT QUALITY IMPROVEMENT BY PROPER YARN

SELECTION: A CASE STUDY OF A KNIT GARMENT” submitted by Shariful Alam, Roll

No.: 1009082116 P, Session: October, 2009, has been accepted as satisfactory in partial

fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ENGINEERING IN

ADVANCED ENGINEERING MANAGEMENT on September 08, 2014.

BOARD OF EXAMINERS

_____________________

Dr. Sultana Parveen Chairman

Professor & Head (Supervisor)


Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology (BUET)

Dhaka - 1000, Bangladesh.

_____________________

Dr. Ferdous Sarwar Member

Assistant Professor




_____________________

Dr. Shuva Ghosh Member

Assistant Professor




CANDIDATE’S DECLARATION

It is hereby declared that this project or any part of it has not been submitted elsewhere for the

award of any degree or diploma.

Signature of the Candidate

___________________

Shariful Alam

DEDICATION

To my parents

i

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

All praises to Allah, the most benevolent and the Almighty, for his boundless grace in the

completion of this project.

I would like to express my sincere respect and gratitude to my project supervisor, Dr. Sultana

Praveen, Professor& Head, Department of Industrial and Production Engineering (IPE), Bangladesh

University of Engineering and Technology (BUET), Dhaka, for his thoughtful suggestions, proper

guidance, cooperation and encouragement throughout the progress of this research work.

I also express my profound thanks and gratitude to all other teachers of the Department of Industrial

and Production Engineering (IPE), BUET for their support and cooperation in this research work.

I am very much thankful to Mr. Salman , Managing Director, Mr. Zia Uddin Ahmed, General

Manager and other staffs of the Taqwa Fabrics Limited for their cordial support and cooperation by

providing me the chance to work on this thesis work, respective information and their valuable time.

I am also thankful to those respondents of different yarn manufacturing industries, who boost up the

study from the very beginning with their cooperation during sample yarn collection.

Finally, I would like to convey my sincere gratitude to my mother who continuously inspire and

encourage me to complete the project successfully.

ii

ABSTRACT

Bangladesh is a developing country. Textile is one of the biggest industries which were rapidly

developed due to low labor cost. Almost 80% foreign currency earned from this sector and 10% of

total G.D.P. So, this is the main driving force of the economy. Bangladesh is facing high cost of

production due to several factors like the hike in electricity tariff, the increase in interest rate, energy

crisis, devaluation of Bangladeshi taka, increasing cost of inputs, political instability, removal of

subsidy and internal dispute. The above all factor increase the cost of production which decreases the

exports. Some time optimum profit as well as quality cannot be achieved from this sector. Because

Textiles owners usually take decisions themselves; ignoring technical experts consultancy. They

have tendency to use low cost raw materials as they think low cost raw material is always cost

effective; which is not true. Buyer’s claim against poor quality of product is obvious and it is very

risky for the progress of Textile Business. 100% cotton Knit garments exports are the lion share of

this textile business and so the expansion was happened for knit fabric production and its relevant

process. So, we need to find out appropriate process for yarn selection so that quality and profit

margin significantly increase. The study shows better result for new developed method though the

average yarn price were 0.05$/kg higher than the old method. The average process losses were

2.228% lower, dye ability was 4.6% higher and cut panel losses were 2.912% lower which not only

offset the extra yarn price but also reduce total manufacturing cost. Quality situation (greige, finish,

In house) were also much more better in new yarn selection method from old yarn selection method.

Considering all data total cost for finished fabric were 0.245$/kg lower than the old yarn selection

method ie. Profitability increase 4.14% according to new yarn selection method. So, it is

recommended that need to follow this new method for cotton yarn selection as profitability increased

as well as quality situation improved by this method.

iii

TABLE OF CONTENTS

TITLE Page No.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT i

ABSTRACT ii

TABLE OF CONTENTS iii-v

LIST OF TABLES v-viii

LIST OF FIGURES ix

CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1-7

1.1. Background and Rationale of the study 1

1.1.1. Present situation 1

1.1.2. History of the Textile industry in Bangladesh 1

1.1.3. Importance of the textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh 4

1.1.4. Problems and challenges 4

1.2. Objectives of the study 7

1.3. Study Framework 7

CHAPTER 2 METHODOLOGY 8-10

2.1. Methodology frame work 8

2.2. Study on old yarn selection method 8

2.3. New yarn selection method development 8

2.4. Sample collection for old & new yarn selection method 8

2.5. Knitting, dyeing & finishing both for old and new yarn selection methods 9

2.6. Sample quality parameter check both for old new yarn selection methods 9

2.7. Loss calculation both for old and new yarn selection methods 10

2.8. Data comparison & cost effectiveness calculation 10

CHAPTER 3 STUDY ON OLD & NEW YRN SELECTION METHODS 11-30

3.1. Old yarn selection method 11

3.2. New yarn selection method 12

3.3. Sample yarn quality management system according to new method 13

iv

3.3.1. Sample yarn quality check 14

3.3.2. Sample fabrics quality check 15

3.4. Study on cost effectiveness of yarn 30

CHAPTER 4 SAMPLE EVALUATIONS & DATA COLLECTION (OLD METHOD) 31-38

4.1. Sample & data collection 31

4.2. Yarn basic quality check 31

4.3. Fabrics quality check 32

4.3.1. Greige fabrics quality inspection report 32

4.3.2. Finish fabrics quality inspection report 32

4.3.3. Process loss calculation 34

4.3.4. Dye ability of yarn 35

4.3.5. Cut panel rejection due to fabrics quality problem 36

CHAPTER 5 SAMPLE EVALUATIONS & DATA COLLECTION (NEW METHOD) 39-46

5.1. Sample & data collection 39

5.2. Yarn basic quality check 39

5.3. Fabrics quality check 40

5.3.1. Greige fabrics quality inspection report 40

5.3.2. Finish fabrics quality inspection report 40

5.3.3. Process loss calculation 43

5.3.4. Dye ability of yarn 44

5.3.5. Cut panel rejection due to fabrics quality problem 45

CHAPTER 6 DATA ANALYSIS & DISCUSSION 47-55

6.1. Data comparison 47

6.1.1. Yarn price comparison 47

6.1.2. Yarn basic quality comparison 47

6.1.3. Greige fabrics quality comparison 48

6.1.4. Finish fabrics quality comparison 48

6.1.5. In house quality comparison 49

6.1.6. Process loss comparison 49

6.1.7. Dye ability comparison 50

6.1.8. Cut panel loss comparison 50

v

6.2. Cost calculation 51

6.2.1. Cost calculation for process loss of fabrics 51

6.2.2. Cost calculation for dye ability of yarn 52

6.2.3. Cost calculation for cut panel rejection 53

6.2.4. Cost effectiveness of yarn 54

CHAPTER 7 CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION 56

7.1. Conclusion 56

7.2. Recommendation 56

REFERENCES 57-59

vi

LIST OF TABLES

TABLE NO. TITLE Page no.

Table 1.1 Some important phases of the Bangladesh RMG industry 3

Table 3.1 Yarn basic quality check report 15

Table 3.2 Penalty points assignment according to 4 point system 16

Table 3.3 Grey fabrics quality inspection report 18

Table 3.4 Finish fabrics quality inspection report 18

Table 3.5 Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report 20

Table 3.6 Mature cotton fibers composition 21

Table 3.7 Influence of maturity on the impurities of cotton fibers 21

Table 3.8 Proportion of cellulose and non-cellulose material in whole of cotton fiber

& primary wall

21

Table 3.9 Metal content of cotton of different origins 22

Table 3.10 Cut panel rejection report due to fabrics quality problem 29

Table 3.11 Cost effectiveness of yarn 30

Table 4.1 List of the yarn & their price (old method) 31

Table 4.2 Yarn primary quality check data (old method) 31

Table 4.3 Greige fabrics quality inspection report (old method) 32

Table 4.4 Finish fabrics quality inspection report (old method) 32

Table 4.5 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 25, Silver,26,s Card 33

Table 4.6 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 55, Badsa,26,s Card 33

Table 4.7 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 43/44, Al Haz Karim,

26,s Card

33

Table 4.8 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 11, Zaaber, 26,s Card 34

Table 4.9 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 103, Mosaraf, 26,s Card 34

Table 4.10 Process loss according to old yarn selection method 34

Table 4.11 Dye ability of yarn according to old yarn selection method 35

Table 4.12 Cut panel rejection 25 Lot Silver, 26,s Card 36

Table 4.13 Cut panel rejection 55 Lot Badsha, 26,s Card 37

Table 4.14 Cut panel rejection 43/44 Lot Al Haz Karim, 26,s card 37

Table 4.15 Cut panel rejection 11 Lot Zaber, 26,s Card 37

Table 4.16 Cut panel rejection 103 Lot Mosaraf, 26,s Card 38

vii

Table 5.1 List of the yarn & their price according (new method) 39

Table 5.2 Yarn primary quality check data (new method) 39

Table 5.3 Greige fabrics quality inspection report (new method) 40

Table 5.4 Finish fabrics quality inspection report (new method) 40

Table 5.5 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 85/13, Al Haz Karim 41

Table 5.6 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 19, Zaber, 26,s Card 41

Table 5.7 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 02, Asia, 26,s Card 41

Table 5.8 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 05, RMT, 26,s Card 42

Table 5.9 Finish fabrics quality inspection report for yarn lot 68/13, Mosaraf,26,s

Card

42

Table 5.10 Process loss according to new yarn selection method 43

Table 5.11 Dye ability of yarn according to new yarn selection method 44

Table 5.12 Cut panel rejection 85/13 Lot Al Haz Karim, 26,s Card 45

Table 5.13 Cut panel rejection 19 Lot Zaber, 26,s Card 45

Table 5.14 Cut panel rejection 02 Lot Asia , 26,s card 45

Table 5.15 Cut panel rejection 05 Lot RMT, 26,s Card 46

Table 5.16 Cut panel rejection 68/13, Mosaraf, 26,s Card 46

Table 6.1 Yarn basic quality comparison 47

Table 6.2 In house quality comparison 49

Table 6.3 Cost effectiveness including process loss according to old method 51

Table 6.4 Cost effectiveness including process loss according to new method 51

Table 6.5 Cost effectiveness of yarn for dye ability of yarn according to old method 52

Table 6.6 Cost effectiveness of yarn for dye ability of yarn according to new method 52

Table 6.7 Cost effectiveness including cut panel loss according to old method 53

Table 6.8 Cost effectiveness including cut panel loss according to new method 53

Table 6.9 Total cost effectiveness according to old yarn selection method 54

Table 6.10 Total cost effectiveness according to new yarn selection method 55

viii

LIST OF FIGURES

FIGURE NO. TITLE Page no.

Figure 2.1 Methodology frame work 8

Figure 3.1 Work procedure of old yarn selection method 11

Figure 3.2 Work procedure of new yarn selection method 12

Figure 3.3 Yarn quality management system according to new yarn selection

method

13

Figure 3.4 Chemical structure of cotton fiber 23

Figure 3.5 Concept of idealized cotton fiber 24

Figure 3.6 Diagram of cotton fiber, cross-section 24

Figure 3.7 L*a*b* Model of color measurement 28

Figure 4.1 Process loss according to old yarn selection method 35

Figure 4.2 Dye ability according to old yarn selection method 36

Figure 4.3 Cut panel rejection according to old yarn selection method 38

Figure 5.1 Process loss according to new yarn selection method 43

Figure 5.2 Dye ability according to new yarn selection method 44

Figure 5.3 Cut panel rejection according to new yarn selection method 46

Figure 6.1 Yarn price comparison 47

Figure 6.2 Greige fabrics quality situation comparison 48

Figure 6.3 Finish fabrics quality situation comparison 48

Figure 6.4 Process loss comparison 49

Figure 6.5 Dye ability comparison 50

Figure 6.6 Cut panel loss comparison 50

1

CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

1.1. Background and Rationale of the study

1.1.1. Present situation: Textiles have been an extremely important part of Bangladesh's

economy for a very long time for a number of reasons. Bangladesh is the world's second

biggest exporter of clothing after China up to 2012.Readymade garments make up 80 percent

of the country's $24 billion in annual exports and 15 percent share of GDP. Consultancy firm

McKinsey and Company has said Bangladesh could double its garments exports in the next 10

years. In Asia, Bangladesh is the one of the biggest largest exporter of textile products

providing employment to a great share percent of the work force in the country. Currently, the

textile industry accounts for 45% of all industrial employment in the country and contributes

5% of the total national income. However, although the industry is one of the largest in

Bangladesh and is still expanding, it faces massive challenges, principally because the country

does not produce enough of the raw materials necessary, unfavorable trade policies, and

inadequate incentives for expansion. As a result, Bangladesh's textile industry relies heavily on

imports, and the country does not earn as much foreign exchange from its textile industry as it

should. Due to increasing demand of sustainable apparel design, environmental changes,

market competition, unpredictable consumer demand, market trends of variety, short product

life cycles and low barriers of entry the textile and apparel industry is one of the most highly

competitive manufacturing sectors in the world [1].As obstacles to trade among nations have

declined due to improved transportation systems, technology transfer and government

cooperation, the industry has seen a rapid increase in globalization and competition. The all

Bangladesh textile mills association and individuals needs to enhance the quality of its

products. [2].

1.1.2. History of the Textile Industry in Bangladesh: Traditionally, artisans working in small

groups, in what are often referred to as cottage industries, produced most of the textile in the

sub-continent. There were many such artisans in the area that was to become Bangladesh. In

fact, from prehistoric times until the Industrial Revolution in the eighteenth century, East

Bengal was self-sufficient in textiles [3]. Its people produced Muslin, Jamdani, and various

cotton and silk fabrics. These were all well regarded even beyond the region as they were

2

manufactured by very skilled craftsmen. The material produced by the artisans of Bengal

started facing vigorous competition beginning in the eighteenth century after the growth of

mechanized textile mills in the English Midlands. This eventually led to a great decline in the

number of Bengali workers skilled enough to produce such high quality fabrics. According to

popularly held beliefs, as the region's spinners and weavers meant competition for their

emerging textile industry, the British imperialists responded by trying to force the artisans to

stop production. They were said to have sometimes used methods as harsh as cutting off the

thumbs of the craftsmen so they would never be able to spin or weave again. However, as was

the case with the traditional handloom fabrics, indigo dye production also gradually declined.

The problems of the indigo industry were principally a result of two factors. First, because

indigo was a cash crop, the British administrators in this part of the empire forced farmers to

grow the indigo plant in order to increase the administrators' profits. Unfortunately, the indigo

plant is nitrogen depleting and thus exhausted the soil very quickly. Another reason for indigo's

gradual disappearance as a dye stuff was the unpredictable nature of the plant. Sometimes one

farmer would have a good harvest, while his neighbor would not be able to produce anything.

The combination of poor yields and the unpredictability of the crop gradually led farmers to

cease growing the plant and moving on to other, more profitable crops. The fabric produced

and dyed in British factories flooded the Indian markets. In time, its importation became one of

the points of contention in the growing independence movement of the sub-continent. As

separation from Great Britain was becoming a foreseeable reality and local production again

profitable, the textile industry was reorganized as new methods of production were adopted.

Water, a necessity for the chemical processes involved in processing the modern dyes now

used, was abundant in East Bengal. This contributed to the establishment of mechanized textile

factories in the area establishment of mechanized textile factories in the area. However, after

1947 and the partition of East and West Pakistan from India, most of the capital and resources

of Pakistan came under the control of West Pakistanis. The textile industry thus stagnated in

East Pakistan as momentum for development shifted from the eastern part of the country to the

west. The west also grew more cotton than the east, which was used as a plea for developing

the industry in the west instead of in the east. The majority of all industries in the east were also

owned by West Pakistani industrialists. When Bangladesh gained its independence from

Pakistan in 1971, the new government nationalized the textile industry, as it did with many

3

other businesses in which West Pakistanis had been the principal owners. Although there were

some Bangladeshi industrialists, they did not form a large or politically powerful group and

thus had to surrender control of their factories to the government as well. All of the country's

textile factories were then nationalized and organized under the Bangladesh Textile Mills

Corporation, or BTMC.

Table 1.1: Some important phases of the Bangladesh RMG industry

Period Event

1977-1980 Early period of growth

1982-1985 Boom days

1985 Imposition of quota restriction

1990s Knitwear sector developed significantly

1995-95 Child labor issue and its solution

2003 Withdrawal of Canadian quota restriction

2005 Phase-out of exported-quota system

2010 Fixed minimum labor wages 3200Tk for RMG worker.

2012 Bangladesh loses G.S.P facilities for RMG in US market.

2013 Review minimum labor wages 5300 Tk for RMG worker.

The industry remained under the control of the BTMC until 1982-83. Bureaucratic obstacles

combined with other problems such as low productivity in the labor force, lack of planning,

indiscipline, lack of accountability, and poor machine maintenance and operation resulted in a

lack of profit [2]. The government thus gradually denationalized the production of textiles.

Factories were privatized, beginning with the dyeing and weaving units. Since that time, much

of the industry has been privatized through auctions and other means. The textile industry has

been the catalyst for industrialization in numerous countries. For example, in England, the

industrial revolution with the new development in coal and steel led to the establishment of a

mass textile industry, which catalyzed the industrialization process in the eighteenth century.

Similarly textiles played a major role in the industrialization of Japan, South Korea, Taiwan,

Hong Kong, and Indonesia. The same has been true to a certain degree in this country. After

privatization, the quality of the fabrics produced improved significantly, leading to a great

increase in the demand for Bangladeshi textiles in both the international market, as well as the

4

export oriented garment industry of Bangladesh. This launched the industry into a period of

rapid growth that is continuing at present. However, the textile industry has seen the application

of many new technologies over the centuries.

1.1.3. Importance of the textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh: The importance of

the textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh is very high. Almost 80% foreign currency

earned from this sector and 10% of total G.D.P. So, this is the main driving force of the

economy. The garments manufacturing sector earned $19 billion in the year to June 2012, one

of the impoverished nation's biggest industries. Currently this industry is facing great

challenges in its growth rate. The major reasons for these challenges can be the global

recession, unfavorable trade policies, internal security concerns, the high cost of production due

to increase in the energy costs, different safety issues specially fire, etc. Depreciation of

Bangladeshi Taka that significantly raised the cost of imported inputs, rise in inflation rate, and

high cost of financing has also effected seriously the growth in the textile industry. As a result

neither the buyers are able to visit frequently Bangladesh nor are the exporters able to travel

abroad for effectively marketing their products. With an in-depth investigation it was found that

the Bangladesh textile industry can be brought on top winning track if government and others

individuals takes serious actions in removing or normalizing the above mentioned hurdles.

Additionally, the government should provide subsidy to the textile industry, minimize the

internal dispute among the exporters, withdraw the withholding and sales taxes etc. Purchasing

new machinery or enhancing the quality of the existing machinery and introducing new

technology can also be very useful in increasing the research and development (R and D)

related activities that in the modern era are very important for increasing the industrial growth

of a country[4].

1.1.4. Problems and challenges

Lack of research and development (R & D) in Textile (knitwear) sector: The lack of

research and development (R & D) in the many especially in knitwear sector of Bangladesh has

resulted in low quality of knit fabrics as well as low profitability. Because of the subsequent

low profitability in knitwear sector textile owner can’t afford to take order at low price. Buyer

also claims for various quality issues. Overcome these quality problem & increase profit

margin proper R& D activities should be enhanced in Textile knitwear (cotton) sector.

5

Lack of high tech equipment: Moreover, critics argue that the textile industry has obsolete

equipment and machinery. The inability to timely modernize the equipment and machinery has

led to the decline of Bangladesh textile competitiveness [5]. Due to obsolete technology the

cost of production is higher in Bangladesh as compared to other countries like India, Pakistan

and china.

Finance bill to burden industry further: All Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation has told

that government’s actions are not matching according to its expectations for the textile industry

and its smooth growth. According to him, reintroduction of minimum tax on domestic sales

would invite unavoidable liquidity problem, which is already reached to the alarming level.

Also the textile industry was facing negative generation of funds due to unaffordable mark up

rate on the one hand and acute shortage of energy supply and unimaginable power tariff for

industry.

Increasing production cost: The cost of production of textile rises due to many reasons like

increasing interest rate, double digit inflation and decreasing value of Bangladeshi Taka. The

above all reason increased the cost of production of textile industry which create problem for a

textile industry to compete in international market.

Bangladesh’s textile industry is going through one of the toughest period in decades. The

global recession which has hit the global textile really hard is not the only cause for concern.

The high cost of production resulting from an instant rise in the energy costs has been the

primary cause of concern for the industry. Depreciation of Bangladeshi Taka during last few

years raised the cost of imported inputs. In addition, double digit inflation and high cost of

financing has seriously affected the growth in the textile industry. Bangladesh textile exports

have gone through challenges during last three years as exporters cannot effectively market

their products since buyers are not enough visiting Bangladesh due to adverse travel advisory

and it is getting more and more difficult for the exporters to travel abroad. Additionally, he

stressed that government should take immediate measures to remove slowdown in the textile

sector. High cost of doing business is because of intensive increase in the rate of interest which

has increased the problems of the industry. Also loans availed crisis by the industry, hence, the

volume of non-performing loans has reached to an alarming situation. Moreover, power shut

downs may result in massive unemployment resulting in law and order situation.

6

Energy crisis: As a consequence of load shedding the textile production capacity of various

sub-sectors has been reduced by up to 30 per cent. Many joint meeting of organization were

held at different times to formulate a joint strategy to address the alarming electricity crisis

being faced by the textile industry. The meeting unanimously decided to constitute a joint

working group of electricity management for the textile industry in the larger interests of the

value chain of the textile industry. The joint working group will meet shortly to design a

detailed plan to pursue the following goals; immediate total exemption from Electricity load

shedding for the textile industry value chain; Rationalization and reduction of electricity tariff.

The load-shedding of electricity cause a rapid decrease in production which also reduced the

export order. The cost of production has risen due to instant increase in electricity tariff. Due to

load shedding some mill owner uses alternative source of energy like generator which increase

their cost of production further. Due to such dramatic situation the capability of

competitiveness of this industry in international market effected badly.

Gas load-shedding continues in textile industries despite a significant increase in temperature.

A Spokesman for the Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation (BTMC) claimed that 60 to 70 per

cent of the industry had been affected and was unable to accept export orders coming in from

around the globe. Continuous gas disconnection over months, causing huge production losses

are badly affecting the capability of the industry. In the larger interest of the economy and

exports, the government should “ensure utility companies provide smooth electricity and gas

supply to the textile industry”.

Tight monetary policy: The continuity of tight monetary policy causes an intensive increase

in cost of production. Due to high interest rate financing cost increases which cause a severe

effect on production. The withholding tax of 1% also effects the production badly. The high

cost of doing business is because of intensive increase in the rate of interest which has

increased the problems of the industry. The government should take immediate measures to

remove slowdown in the textile sector.

Raw material prices: Prices of cotton and other raw material used in textile industry fluctuate

rapidly in Bangladesh. The rapid increase in the price raw material affects the cost of

production badly. The increase in raw material prices fluctuates rapidly due to double digit

inflation and instable internal condition of Bangladesh. Due to increase in the cost of

production the demand for export and home as well decreased which result in terms of down

7

sizing of a firm. Hence the unemployment level will also increase. Govt should step to survive

the textile industry. In order to decrease the price raw material for textile we need to increase

our production capability. Simultaneously, the government should make arrangement for

introducing international system of Cotton Standardization in Bangladesh to enhance quality

and value of Bangladesh lint cotton by utilizing the technical services of Bangladesh Cotton

Standard Institute.

1.2. Objective of the study

The objective of the proposed thesis work are-

To reduce process loss, cutting loss and improve fabrics quality.

To reduce dyes consumption by selecting more dye able yarn.

To compare and analyze the results (process loss, dye ability, quality problem) old

yarn selection method and new yarn selection method.

1.3. Study frame work

Study the existing yarn selection method (named as old yarn selection method).

Develop yarn selection method (named as new yarn selection method).

Collect sample yarn from yarn supplier. Knit these collected samples and dye them

in standard condition (following old and new yarn selection methods).

Find out and compare process loss for both yarn selection methods.

Find out and compare the dye ability for both yarn selection methods.

Find out and compare the quality problem (quality issues and cut panel rejection)

for both yarn selection methods.

Analyze the costing, compare and finally find out profitability and quality situation.

8

CHAPTER 2

METHODOLOGY

2.1. Methodology frame work: Methodology of this thesis work are shown in the figure

below-

Figure 2.1: Methodology frame work

2.2. Study on old yarn selection method: Studied on 100% export oriented textile factory

existing yarn selection method. The name of that company was Taqwa Fabrics Ltd.

2.3. New yarn selection method development: Developed new yarn selection method to

overcome the drawback of existing yarn selection method. This method would be helpful for

quality improvement as well as profitability.

2.4. Sample collection for old and new yarn selection methods: Samples were collected

from bulk in old yarn selection method and from different yarn suppliers in new yarn selection

method.

Yarn selection

Study on old yarn selection method Develop new yarn selection method

Sample collection Sample collection

Knitting, dyeing & finishing at std. condition Knitting, dyeing & finishing at std. condition

Quality & loss% analysis and data collection Quality & loss% analysis and data collection

Data comparison & cost effectiveness calculation

9

2.5. Knitting, dyeing& finishing both for old and new yarn selection method: Finished

fabrics sample were collected randomly from bulk in old yarn selection method. Sample were

knitted, dyed & finished corresponding to old yarn selection method.

2.6. Sample quality parameter check both for old and new yarn selection methods. Sample

quality were checked for both methods following the standard procedures.

Standard procedures for quality evaluation were-

1. Yarn basic quality

Actual count = Expected count ±3%

Moisture content= 7.5% ~9.2%

Twist = 5.5%~10% for 24,s &26,s yarn

2. Greige & finished fabrics quality: were evaluated by 4-point system.

3. In house quality: were tests by following methods

Weight(g/m2): JIS L 1096

Bursting test: JIS L1096 A

Pilling: JIS L 1076A 5hrs.

PH: GB T75/73

Water absorbs: JIS L 1907 (L0.L10)

Tumble dry: JIS L 1096 G 103 3times Tumble

Laundering: JIS L 1096 G 103 3times line dry

Fastness to washing: JIS L 0844

Fastness to rubbing: JIS 0849

Fastness to perspiration: JIS L 0848

Fastness to perspiration and light: JIS L 88B

Fastness to chlorine water: JIS L 0884 A

Fastness to light: JIS L 0842

Bleeding test: Daimaru

Sublimation test: JIS L 0854

10

2.7. Loss calculation both for old & new yarn selection methods: Process loss & cut panel

loss% were checked both for old and new yarn selection methods.

2.8. Data comparison and cost effectiveness calculation: Data were compared (old vs. new)

and cost effectiveness were calculated for both yarn selection methods. Finally both systems

were compared.

11

CHAPTER 3

STUDY ON OLD & NEW YARN SELECTION METHODS

3.1. Old yarn selection method: In this yarn selection method after getting order from buyer,

marchandizing team makes work order for that specific order and inform top management

about yarn consumption.Top management communicates with yarn supplier’s & purchase yarn

directly from spinning mill which one is chipper and available.

Figure 3.1: Work procedure of old yarn selection method

Yarn store receives bulk yarn from suppliers directly according to booking. Knitting section

knit fabric’s according to booking and delivers these fabrics into grey warehouse. Grey

warehouse deliver batch able fabrics into dyeing section for dyeing & finishing. After dyeing

&finishing finished fabrics quality are checked and sent to garments section.

12

3.2. New yarn selection method: According to new yarn selection method after getting order

from buyer, marchandizing team makes work order for that specific order and inform top

management for yarn consumption.Top management communicates with yarn supplier’s and

request them to send sample yarn. Collected sample yarns are immediately sent to R&D section

for check its quality status and process loss%.

Figure 3.2: Work procedure of new yarn selection method

R&D section informs yarn quality status and. process loss% to top management. Top

management buys yarn which one is cost effective. Yarn warehouse receives bulk yarn from

supplier according to booking. Knitting section knits fabric according to booking and delivers

these fabrics into grey warehouse. Grey warehouse delivers batch able fabrics into dyeing batch

13

section for dyeing & finishing. After dyeing &finishing, finished fabric’s quality are checked

by Q.C departments. In this method first quality are checked by R&D and then yarn are

purchased. That’s why if any major problem found due to yarn problem yarn can be changed

and changing of supplier is also possible.

In this process 100% quality (sample yarn) are checked before purchase that yarn as a result

frequency of problem such as low dye pick up, patta,white conta, poly conta, thick thin, neps ,

deed fiber and process loss is comparatively low.

3.3. Sample yarn quality management system according to new method: Marketing &

merchandizing team inform yarn requirement of specific work order to top management. Top

management communicates with yarn supplier’s and request them to send sample yarn of

different yarn lot. Collected different yarn lot yarn send to ware house.

Figure 3.3: Yarn quality management system according to new yarn selection method

14

Yarn ware house immediately inform to R&D section for checked its quality situation. R&D

section requested knitting section to knit sample and lab Q.C section to checked yarn basic

quality. After knitting grey fabrics qualities are checked and sent it to dyeing section. Dyeing

section immediately dye that sample in suitable color. Dyed fabrics are then finished in

finishing section and checked its quality by final Q.C. Final Q.C and lab Q.C inform yarn

quality report to R&D section very urgently. R&D section again conform these problem by

themselves (if major problem found) and judge. Then quality status and cost effectiveness of

yarn are evaluated by R&D section. This report immediately informs top management by mail.

Top management compares these yarns and buys yarn which one quality is good and cost

effective.

3.3.1. Sample yarn quality check: Following basic yarn quality are checked by lab Q.C and

inform all concern departments about its quality status.

Yarn count (Ne): No of hangs (840yard) in 1 pound is called English cotton count. Yarn actual

count are calculated by using following formula

English cotton count (Ne) =Lxw

Wxl

Here, W= Standard weight 453gm (1 pound)

L= Standard length 840 yards (1 hangs)

w = Sample weight in gm

l = Sample length in yards

Before dry weight: After received sample yarn from yarn warehouse these yarn cone are give

relax for 12 hrs. Then some sample yarns are collected and their weights are weighed by

electrical balance & note down.

After dry weight: Collected sample are then dried at 120ᴼC x 10 min. and their weight are

weighed by electrical balance & note down.

(Before dry wt. – After dry wt.)Moisture content = X 100%

Before dry wt

Twist: Twist is measured by digital twist tester m/c.

15

Table 3.1: Yarn basic quality check report

Format for yarn quality check

YarnName

Lotno.

YarnCount

Actualcount

Beforedry

wt.(gm)

Afterdry

wt.(gm)

Moisturecontent

%

Twist%

Yarnevaluation

Remarks

3.3.2. Sample fabrics quality check : Sample fabrics quality are checked and evaluated by

checking following criteria.

i). Grey fabrics quality

ii). Finish fabrics quality

iii). Process loss calculation

iv). Dye ability of yarn

v). Cutting loss calculation

i). Grey fabrics quality: Grey fabric qualities are checked by 4 point system. 4 point system

are described below-

4-Point System

The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-grading

system for determining fabric quality (both grey & finish fabrics), is widely used by producers

of apparel fabrics and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC (American Society for

Quality Control).

The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance

of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect. Defect can

be in either length or width direction, the system remains the same. Only major defects are

considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.

16

In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment and make

sure to select at least one roll of each color way. Fabric defects are assigned points based on the

following:

Table 3.2: Penalty points assignment according to 4 point system

Length of defect Penalty point allotted

Upto 3 inches 1 Points

3-6 inches 2 Points

6-9 inches 3 Points

Holes and Openings ( 1 inch or less) 2 Points

Holes and Openings ( over 1 inch ) 4 Points

Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance criteria is

generally not more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are

considered "seconds".

The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by-

Grade point according to 4 point system = Total points scored in the roll x 3600Fabrics width in inch x Total yards inspected

The following are noteworthy points for this system:

No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.

The fabric is graded regardless of the end-product.

This system makes no provision for the probability of minor defects.

4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry as it is easy to teach

and learn.

General Inspection Procedures

1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and

proper lighting.

2. Fabric passing through the inspection frame must be between 45 - 60 degree angles to

inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light above viewing area. Back light

can be used as and when needed.

3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.

4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.

17

5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior to

inspection.

6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for assessing

colour, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.

7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and selvage and

the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented.

8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.

9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.

10. All defects must be flagged during inspection.

11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on supplier

ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for additional

replacement to avoid shortage.

12. If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be done

from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.

Apparel manufacturers inspect the fabric stock upon arrival, so that any fabric irregularities are

caught early in the production process. Textile producers also generally inspect fabrics before

sending them to manufacturers. After identification of fabric defects, a system needs to be

followed to grade the defects to ascertain its acceptance or rejection. 4-Point fabric inspection

system is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now. This test method describes a

procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of fabrics from a visual inspection. It

may be used for the delivery and acceptance of fabrics with requirements mutually agreed upon

by the purchaser and the supplier. This system does not establish a quality level for a given

product, but rather provides a means of defining defects according to their severity by assigning

demerit point values. All type of fabrics whether grey or finished, can be graded by this system

[6].

18

Table 3.3: Greige fabrics quality inspection report

Format for greige fabrics Q.C. inspection

Order no.Fabric no. Weight

(Kg)Length (M)

Yarntuckstitch

Hole

1inch

Hole> 1inch

SlubThickyarn

Thinyarn

NapesBroken

spunyarn

Yarndirty

Fly

Qualityevaluation

Yarnname

Yarnlot.

GradePoint

Grade

ii). Finish fabrics quality: Finished fabrics quality are inspected & checked by a). Final Q.C

b). Lab Q.C for house report (physical & chemical test).

a). Final Q.C quality inspection: Finished fabrics quality are inspected by final Q.C following

4 pint system. 4 point previously described.

Table 3.4: Finish fabrics quality inspection report.

Format of finish fabrics Q.C. inspection report

Order no.Fabric no. Weight

(Kg)Length

(M)

Yarntuckstitch

Hole1

inch

Hole >1 inch

SlubThick

yarnThinyarn

NapesBroken

spunyarn

Yarndirty

Qualityevaluation

Yarnname

Yarnlot

TotalPoint

GradePoint

Grade

b). Lab Q.C check for in-house data (physical and chemical test): Fabric testing plays a

crucial role in gauging product quality, assuring regulatory compliance and assessing the

performance of textile materials. It provides information about the physical or structural

properties and the performance properties of the fabrics. Today more and more countries and

markets have a stake in the treatment and testing of fabric. As consumers become more aware

19

and more demanding of products, the number of tests required for textile fabrics has grown. As

a result the testing of fabrics is increasingly varied, in constant flux and full of the

unprecedented challenges of globalization.

Testing is important, mainly for customer satisfaction of the textile product as well as to ensure

product quality for the market in which the textile manufacturer competes. Testing is also

important in order to control the manufacturing process and cost. In the textile industry, it is

very important to use testing to control the manufacturing process for cost and other reasons.

The importance of testing cannot be disregarded for product satisfaction and control of

manufacturing cost. There are additional reasons such as customer relations, reputation,

employee satisfaction and sales. Proper testing programmes are a very important ingredient of

the efficient manufacturing business. Testing informs us whether the product will be saleable or

not [7].

Physical testing: The first broad class of factors that affect the performance of fabrics are

physical agents and influences. These may be further subdivided into mechanical deformation

and degradation, tactile and associated visual properties of fabrics (such as wrinkling, buckling,

drape and hand) after their use and manufacture, and their response to heat, liquids and static

charge. The testing of fabrics to mechanical deformation is very important and refers to fabrics

that are subjected to variable and complex modes of deformation. They include tensile

behaviour, compression, bending or flexing, shrinkage, abrasion resistance, frictional rubbing,

torsion or twisting, and shear. Fabrics with special features or constructions require either

characterize adequately their mechanical and related properties. Coated fabrics must be

evaluated not only for their mechanical integrity and behaviour but also for their bonding

integrity of the coating to the fabric [8].

Chemical testing: Chemical and photochemical exposure of textiles may lead to yellowing or

discoloration of un-dyed fabrics, to fading of dyed fabrics, and/or to degradation of dyed and

un-dyed fabrics. These adverse results are due to de-polymerization of the polymer chain in the

fibre that may occur by hydrolysis oxidative processes and/or cross-linking. Textile fabrics

have varying degrees of resistance to chemical agents such as water and other solvents, to

acids, bases and bleaches, to air pollutants and to the photochemical action of ultraviolet light.

Resistance to chemical agents is dependent on fibre type, chemical nature of the dyes,

additives, impurities, finishes present in the fibre, and to a lesser extent on the construction and

20

geometry of the fabric. The testing of fabrics towards the above influences is very important in

assessing the performance of the fabrics for various end uses [9].The development of

chemically resistant protective clothing and textile filtration media has led to test methods

relevant to these end uses.

Finished fabrics qualities are checked according to the buyer recommendation.

Table 3.5: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report

Format for physical test data

Criteria F.

Width

F.

weight

Brusting Elongation

(w/c)

Pilling PH Water

Absorb

Trumble

dry(w/c)

Landering

dry(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3.0 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3/-6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3

Test

Format for chemical test data

Criteria

Washing(cott/nylo)cc/cs.

Perspirationcc/cs (acid)

Perspirationcc/cs(alkali)

Perspirationlight(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorine water

Bleeding Light Subblimation

Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4

Test

iii). Process loss : During dyeing & finishing fabrics lose its weight which is known as weight

loss or process loss of fabrics. Achieving optimum profitability process loss or weight loss of

fabrics play vital rule. If process loss is high, profitability will be low and vice versa. Process

loss is mainly depend on fiber ie. Yarn quality (impurities of fiber), fabrics making and fabrics

processing (dyeing, finishing etc), enzyme quality. Yarn quality can be increase by using high

quality yarn. If fiber maturity, fineness and staple length is low yarn produce from such type of

fiber process loss will be high.

The impurities in cotton fiber can be ranges from 4 to 12% (o.w.f) and the overall composition

of cotton fibers are indicated in (Table 3.6) below. Even after mechanical ginning process,

21

Table 3.6: Mature Cotton fibers composition

Constituents Percentage by dry weightα-Cellulose 88.0-96.4Protein 1.0-1.9Wax 0.4-1.2Ash(inorganic salts) 0.7-1.6Pections 0.4-1.2Others(resins, pigments, hemi-cellulose, sugars,organics acids,incrusted ligneous substance)

0.5-8.0

certain amount of seed-coated fragments, aborted seeds and leaves etc., cling to the fibre and

these impurities are called ‘motes’. The impurities in cotton fibre vary according to the fibre

maturity [10] (Table 3.7). Cotton impurities are located largely on the outer side of the fibre

(Table 3.8). The non cellulosic material is mainly situated in the primary wall and the

secondary wall is mainly composed of cellulose. Their quality is higher when the fibre is finer,

that is to say when the specific surface area is large [11].

Table 3.7: Influence of maturity on the impurities of cotton fibers (in percent of dry weight)

[12].

Constituents US- cottonMature Immature

Waxes 0.45 1.14Proteins 1.01 2.02Ash 0.71 1.32Pectin’s 0.58 1.28

Table 3.8: Proportion of cellulose and non-cellulose material in whole of cotton fibre &

primary wall [13].

Constituents Proportion (wt.%)

Off the whole fibre Of primary wallCellulose 88-96 52Pectins 0.7-1.2 12Waxes 0.4-1.0 7Proteins 1.1-1.9 12Minerals 0.7-1.6 3Other organics compounds 0.5-1.0 14

22

Problems Caused by Contaminants in Cotton:

While cotton fiber may be as much as 88%-96 % cellulose, there are other components present

which must be removed in preparation for a successful dyeing. Table 2.6 gives a summary of

naturally occurring impurities in cotton [14].

The level of contamination in cotton is affected by: geology of cultivation area; soil

constitution; weather conditions during the maturing period; cultivation techniques; chemicals,

pesticides and fertilizers; as well as harvesting techniques [15]. For the dyer, the elements that

pose the greatest threat are alkaline earth and heavy metal contaminants such as calcium,

magnesium, manganese, and iron. Depending on its origin, raw cotton can exhibit widely

different contents of alkaline earth and heavy metal ions. Table 3.9 gives an example of the

metal content of cotton having different origins [16].

Table 3.9: Metal content of cotton of different origins

Origin of Cotton Metal content (mg/kg)Ca Mg Fe Cu Mn

Brazil Assai Piranha 3147 1156 680 6 30Brazil Sao Paulo 845 555 46 6 11Peru 700 440 13 <1 <1USA Texas 810 365 75 <1 <1USA California 600 540 40 <1 <1Egypt Makko 640 462 11 <1 <1

Levels of fats, oils and waxes present in cotton can be reduced to acceptable limits by the

action of alkali and surface-active products. In extreme cases, the use of solvent and surface

active mixtures may be necessary [17].

Pectins and the related substances can be rendered soluble by the action of alkali, usually

caustic soda, which also acts as a swelling agent. Amino acids are also rendered soluble in the

presence of alkali by producing the corresponding sodium salts. Metals, however, cannot be

adequately removed by conventional alkaline processes since, in an alkaline medium,

sequestering agents cannot quantitatively separate the minerals of a complex structure

containing heavy metals. Moreover, in the alkaline pH region, cellulose swells rapidly and

strongly, thus impairing the transport of crystalline minerals from the core to the periphery of

the fiber. Demineralization with organic or inorganic acid is more effective as compared to the

alkaline treatment process. However, regardless of the efficacy of an acid treatment, the use of

23

organic or inorganic acids for the demineralization of cellulosic fibers involves a number of

disadvantages such as corrosion of machine parts, difficulties in handling, and risk of fiber

damage with strong inorganic acids.

After the bio-polishing process, 1-5 % loss in fabric weight is an expected result. This amount

shows the efficiency of the process. Weight loss of enzymatic-treated fabric samples after pre-

treatment was slightly higher than for those which were enzymatic-treated after dyeing. The

reason for this is the high number of process phases, the high amount of mechanical forces and

the long process period, which cause the removal of the fuzzes from the yarn surface. When the

weight loss is compared according to the yarn spinning system, the fabric from carded yarn had

the highest value while the open-end yarn had the lowest. The amount of weight loss that

occurs after the double enzymatic treatment was significantly higher [18].

Note: Here enzyme effect on process loss for every yarn lot is same as these yarn bio-polished

by same enzyme, same concentration & in same condition.

Process loss calculation: Process loss of Knit fabrics can be calculate by following formula-

Process loss % = {(Grey fabrics weight-Finish fabrics weight)/ Grey fabrics weight}x 100%

Knitting process loss is usually from 0.3% to .8%. If yarn quality is good then knitting process

loss will be low.

iv). Dye ability: Tendency of dye pick up by fiber during dyeing is known as dye ability. Dye

ability mainly depends on fiber maturity. Immature fiber dye ability is very poor. Cotton

fabrics Chemical Structure is mentioned below-

Figure 3.4: Chemical structure of cotton fiber

24

Cotton fabrics react with reactive dyes and make covalent bond. In mature yarn %Secondary

wall is high &% lumen is low and in immature yarn %Secondary wall is low &% lumen is

high. So, for mature yarn possibility of making covalent bond is high ie. dye pickup is high and

vise versa. Below it described broadly.

Cotton Fiber Morphology: Cotton fiber consists of four regions

Figure 3.5: Concept of idealized cotton fiber

Figure 3.6: Diagram of a cotton fiber, cross –section [19].

Cuticle: Very thin outer layer containing wax and pectin material

Pectin:

1. A peculiar group of carbohydrates of very complex composition. They are usually present as

C and Mg salts. In immature fibers there is relatively high amount pectin’s (6%).

2. In mature fibers it is relatively high amount pectin’s (0.9-1%).

3. Decrease in pectin content with parallel increase in cellulose content proves that pectin is the

parent substance from which cellulosic is formed

4. Function is to protect the fiber from atmospheric oxidation

25

Primary wall:

1. Composed of cellulose, Pectin and fatty matter

2. Formed in the first phase of growth

3. Cellulose fibrils are disposed transversely or circularly to produce high peripheral strength

and also makes it weaker in length wise direction of the fiber and account for the low strength

of immature fiber

4. In all native-cellulose fibers, the molecules are highly oriented parallel to one another, but

they spiral round the fiber, thus reducing the degree of orientation parallel to the fiber axis.

5. In flax, ramie, hemp, and other bast fibers, the spiral angle is small – less than 6° - so that

these fibers are highly oriented and give high strength and low extensibility.

6. In cotton, however, the spiral angle lies between 20° and 30°, and the fibers can extend more

easily by stretching the spiral.

Secondary wall:

1. Formed during second phase of growth and makes up about 90% of the total weight.

2. This wall is composed of successive layers of cellulose deposited on the inner side of the

primary wall without increase in diameter

3.Strength of the fiber is determined by secondary wall

Lumen:

1. Central hollow canal whose dimensions vary over a wide range

1. Contains protein, mineral salts and pigments

Problems caused by immature and dead Cotton:

Although it a common practice to use the terms ‘dead’ and ‘immature’ inter changeably, it is

useful to use these terms to indicate two different levels of maturity in cotton fibers. The

normal mature cotton fiber is bean-shaped in cross-section and has a thick cell-wall. The other

}”extreme, dead cotton, has virtually no cell-wall thickness. The intermed]iate range between }

The first type of the defect occurs when a surface knot of entangled immature fibres is flattened

during processing and takes on a glazed, shiny appearance. The knot then becomes a small,

reflective mirror on the surface of the dyed material. Its greater reflectance makes the knot

appear lighter at some viewing angles than the surrounding area although it has actually been

dyed to the same depth.

26

The second type occurs when the fabric is poorly penetrated during dyeing. Since the clumps

of immature fibres are often loosely attached to the material, they can be moved or knocked

loose during subsequent processes. If the clump, or the yarn behind it, is not properly

penetrated during dyeing, a light spot will be seen when the clump changes its position.

The third type is the classic case of the clump of immature or dead fibres not dyeing to the

same depth as the surrounding material. The coverage of immature cotton depends upon the

following factors:

Fibre preparation: There are several stages in the fibre preparation where an attempt can be

made to decrease the amount of neps of the immature and/or dead fibres that are usually

clumped together [25]. It is important to try to remove these clumps prior to the carding

process. Once past the main cylinder of the card, the clumped fibres go into the subsequently

formed yarn and the fabric.

Preparation sequence: The preparation sequence has little, if any, impact on the coverage of

immature cotton. Only pre-treatments that swell the cell wall, giving it greater thickness, are

effective in improving the dye ability of immature cotton.

Swelling pre-treatment: Treatment with swelling agents at optimum concentration (e.g. caustic

soda with a 14% or greater concentration) is effective in swelling the secondary wall of

immature cotton, and improving its dyeing affinity. On the other hand, dead cotton lacks the

necessary cell-wall thickness to be effectively treated by any type of swelling pre-treatment

system.

Dye selection: Dyes vary widely in their ability to effectively eliminate the white or off-shade

specks. It is recommended that dye suppliers be consulted for data on the immature cotton

coverage capabilities of specific dyes. Since caustic pretreatment is ineffective in eliminating

white or off-shade specks caused by dead cotton, dye selection is the best alternative in this

case. Although the exact mechanisms are unknown, one theory is that dyes that cover dead

cotton are those which do not penetrate into the cellulose of the fibre (the core) but are

deposited mainly in the outside layer. This gives the dead fibre a ‘coloured’ skin.

After-treatments: Swelling treatments such as mercerization or ammonia treatment may be

effective after dyeing, as well as before, if the problem is the presence of reflective surfaces and

not a genuine difference in dye uptake by the immature cotton. However, such a procedure is

27

justified only in extreme cases, as there is an inevitable change of shade even when the fabric is

dyed with dyes that are resistant to strong alkalis.

Dye Variables in Reactive Dyeing:

Substantivity: Substantivity is more dependent on the chromophore as compared to the reactive

system. A higher dye substantivity may result in a lower dye solubility [26], a higher primary

exhaustion [27], a higher reaction rate for a given reactivity [28], a higher efficiency of fixation

[29], a lower diffusion coefficient, less sensitivity of dye to the variation in processing

conditions such as temperature and pH [30], less diffusion, migration and levelness [31, 32], a

higher risk of unlevel dyeing, and more difficult removal of unfixed dye. Substantivity is the

best measure of the ability of a dye to cover dead or immature fibres. Covering power is best

when the substantivity is either high or very low [33]. An increase in the dye substantivity may

be effected by lower concentration of the dye, higher concentration of electrolyte [34], lower

temperature, higher pH (up to 11) and lower liquor to goods ratio [35].

Reactivity: A high dye reactivity entails a lower dyeing time and a lower efficiency of fixation.

(To improve the efficiency of fixation by reducing dye reactivity requires a longer dyeing time

and is, therefore, less effective than an increase in substantivity.) Also there is a wider range of

temperature and pH over which the dye can be applied. Reactivity of a dye can be modified by

altering the pH or temperature, or both. By a suitable adjustment of pH and temperature, two

dyes of intrinsically different reactivity may be made to react at a similar rate.

Diffusion coefficient: Dyes with higher diffusion-coefficients usually result in better levelling

and more rapid dyeing. Diffusion is hindered by the dye that has reacted with the fibre and the

absorption of active dye is restrained by the presence of hydrolysed dye. Different types of dyes

have different diffusion characteristics. For example, the order of decreasing diffusion is:

unmetallised dyes, 1:1 metal-complex dyes, 1:2 metal complex dyes; phthalocyanine dyes. An

increase in the diffusion is affected by increasing temperature, decreasing electrolyte

concentration, adding urea in the bath [36] and using dyes of low substantivity.

Solubility: Dyes of better solubility can diffuse easily and rapidly into the fibres, resulting in

better migration and levelling. An increase in dye solubility may be effected by increasing the

temperature, adding urea and decreasing the use of electrolytes.

28

Dye ability evaluation:

Find out dye ability of yarn collected samples are dyed together with standard yarn in

Laboratory section in standard condition and standard color. Dye ability of these sample yarn is

then evaluate by spectrophotometer (from L*a*b* value) in respect to standard yarn.

Figure 3.7: L*a*b* Model of color measurement [37-38].

29

v). Cut panel rejection after cutting due to quality problem: As the fabric is the major raw

material in a garment, the saving of very less amount of fabric per garment can save quite a

large sum of money per year, which can increase the profit of the organization substantially.

Proper investigation of the fabric losses during & after the cutting process can help the

management to minimize material wastage. Here we only consider cut panel losses due to

finish fabrics quality problem.

Table 3.10: Cut panel rejection report due to fabrics quality problem

Report for cut pcs. rejection after cutting

Buyer: Order: Color: Batch no. Quantity: 250 KgsYarn Lot: Total Cutting Pcs.: Total reject pcs.:

Types of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%

Foreign Yarn

Barre mark

Dirty mark

Conta

Thick

Thin

Hole

Fly yarn

Total:

30

3.4. Study on cost effectiveness of yarn

Table 3.11: Cost effectiveness calculation

Yarn Selection method

Name of expense

Monthlycost /kg

production

Yarn 1 Yarn 2 Yarn 3 Yarn 4 Yarn 5

AverageCost/kgFinish

FabricsRaw materials1. Direct raw material cost(Yarn price)2. Fabrics wt. loss due to Knitting dyeing2. Dyes and chemicals3. Fabrics cutting loss due to its quality problemOrdering cost1. Merchandising & Marketing CostDesign Changes1. Development cost (Sample)Order Size1. Knitting: Needle, sinker, Knitting oil, Tools etc2. Utilities( Gas, Diesel, Water, Air, ETP)3. Maintenance4. Factory equipment depreciation5. Setting Changes6. Administrative Building lease7. Office equipment depreciation, consumption8. Poly, Pipe etcLabour wages1. Textile department wages2. Indirect factory wages3. Security, Administration etcCustomer relation1. Buyer auditOthers1. Compliance, CSR & Safety activity2. Factory sustaining cost( ISO, Oekotex, WRAP)TOTALFINISH FABRICS COST/KGS INCLUDINGCUTTING LOSS =

31

CHAPTER 4

SAMPLE EVALUATION & DATA COLLECTION (OLD METHOD)

4.1. Sample & data collection

According to old yarn selection method no need to collected sample from yarn suppliers.

Samples were collected from bulk. Old yarn selection method additional cost for sample

collection and checking is nil as textile owners purchase yarn directly for spinning mill

according to consider their price, quality and availability. After knitting, dyeing & finishing

sample were collected from bulk. Then checked & collected all data. Top five samples were

considered.

List of the bulk yarn and their price are mentioned below-

Table 4.1: List of the yarn & their price (old method)

S.L Yarn Lot Yarn Price1 25 Silver, 26’s Card 3.40$2 55 Lot Badsa, 26’s Card 3.35$3 43/44 Al Haz Karim, 26’s Card 3.42$4 11 Zaber ,26’s Card 3.35$5 103 Mosaraf, 26’s Card 3.45$

4.2. Yarn basic quality check: Collected yarn sample were tested by Lab Q.C and their basic

quality situation are mentioned below-

Table 4.2: Yarn primary quality check data (old method)

Yarn quality check report

Yarn NameLotno

YarnCount

Actualcount

Beforedry wt.(gm)

Afterdry wt.(gm)

Moisturecontent

%

Twist%

Evaluation Remarks

Silver, 26’s Card 25 26,s 25.86,s 11.3gm 10.4gm 7.96% 7.6% OK

Badsa, 26’s Card 55 26,s 26.0,s 12.3gm 11.2gm 8.94% 6.7% OK

Al Haz Karim, 26’s Card 43/44 26,s 25.65,s 10.4gm 9.5gm 8.65% 7.1% OK

Zaber ,26’s Card 11 26,s 25.60,s 9.5gm 8.7gm 8.40% 7.2% OK

Mosaraf, 26’s Card 103 26,s 25.55,s 10.9gm 10.0gm 8.25% 5.8% OK

32

4.3. Fabrics quality check: Collected sample yarn were knitted according to buyer

specification, dyed them in standard condition and following quality parameter are checked.

4.3.1: Greige fabrics quality inspection report: After knitting greige fabrics qualities are

inspected by 4 pint system. Quality situation of greige fabrics are mentioned below-

Table 4.3: Greige fabrics inspection report (old method)

Greige fabrics Q.C inspection report

Order no. Test 1Fabrics dia: 70 inch Weight

(Kg)

Length

(Y)

Yarntuckstitch

Hole< 1inch

Hole> 1inch

SlubThickyarn

Thinyarn

Napes

Brokenspunyarn

Yarndirty

FlyQuality evaluation

Yarn NameLotno.

GradePoint

Grade

Silver,26’sCard

25 20.2 85y ǀǀ ǀǀ - ǀV Vǀǀ ǀǀǀ Vǀ ǀ ǀǀ ǀ 18 A

Badsa,26’sCard

55 19.7 83y - ǀǀ ǀ V ǀV V ǀǀ - - ǀ 16 A

Al HazKarim, 26’s

Card43/44 20.0 85y ǀ ǀV - ǀǀ Vǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ - - 15 A

Zaber,26’s Card 11 20.3 87y ǀǀǀ ǀǀ - V Vǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ - - ǀ 16 A

Mosaraf,26’s Card

103 20.1 86y ǀǀǀ ǀǀ - Vǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ - - - 14 A

4.3.2: Fin\ish fabrics quality inspection report: After dyeing & finishing, finished fabrics

qualities are inspected by 4 pint system. Quality situation of finished fabrics are mentioned

below-

a). Final quality inspection report: Finished fabrics final quality report are mentioned below-

Table 4.4: Finish fabrics quality inspection report by final Q.C (old method)

Finish fabrics Q.C inspection report

Order no. Test 1Fabric dia: 74 inch Weight

(Kg)Length

(M)Baremark

Hole< 1inch

Hole> 1inch

Brokenyarn

Thick ThinForeign

yarnFlyyarn

Yarnconta

Quality evaluation

Yarn nameYarnlot

TotalPoint

GradePoint

Grade

Silver,26’s Card 25 17.55 81y ǀV ǀǀ ǀ ǀǀ V Vǀǀ ǀV - Vǀ 54 33 A

Badsa,26’s Card 55 16.74 78y ǀ ǀǀǀ ǀ ǀ ǀǀǀ ǀV ǀV ǀǀ ǀǀ 31 20 A

Al HazKarim,

26’s Card

43/44

17.82 82y ǀǀ - ǀ - ǀV V ǀǀǀ ǀV ǀ 29 17 A

Zaber ,26’s Card 11 17.81 83y ǀǀǀ ǀǀ ǀ ǀ Vǀǀ Vǀǀǀ ǀ - ǀV 41 24 A

Mosaraf,26’s Card 103 17.80 84y - ǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀǀ ǀV ǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ 27 16 A

33

b). Lab quality in house t

Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 25, Silver, 26,s Card

Physical test data

CriteriaF.

WidthF. weight

(g/m2)Bursting(KPA)

Elongation(w/c) %

Pilling PHWaterAbsorb

Tumbledry(w/c)

Laundering(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 /-6/+3 -5/+3 /-6/+3Test 74 inch 152 303 35%/45% 4 6.8 0.9 sec -2.2/-3.3 -1.5/-3.1

Chemical test data

CriteriaWashing

(cott/nylon)cc/cs.


Perspirationcc/cs

(alkali)

Perspirationlight

(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorinewater

Bleeding Light Sublimation

Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Table 4.6: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 55, Badsa, 26’s CardPhysical test data

Criteria F. WidthF.weight(g/m2)

Bursting(KPA)

Elongation(w/c) %


Tumbledry(w/c)

Laundering(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 / -6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3Test 74 inch 155 317 37%/46%/ 4-5 6.7 0.7 sec -3.2/-3.8 -3.5/-2.1

Chemical test data

CriteriaWashing

(cott/nylon)cc/cs.


Perspirationcc/cs

(alkali)

Perspirationlight

(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorinewater


Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Table 4.7: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 43/44 , Al Haz Karim, 26’s

Card

Physical test dataCriteria F. Width F.weight

(g/m2)Bursting(KPA)

Elongation(w/c) %

Pilling PH WaterAbsorb

Tumbledry(w/c)

Laundering(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 / -6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3Test 74 inch 156 322 36%/48% 4-5 6.85 0.9 sec -3.2/-4.5 -4.5/-3.1

Chemical test data

CriteriaWashing

(cott/nylon)cc/cs.


Perspirationcc/cs

(alkali)

Perspirationlight

(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorinewater


Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

34

Table 4.8: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 11, Zaber , 26’s CardPhysical test data


Bursting(KPA))

Elongation(w/c) %


Tumbledry(w/c)

Laundering(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 /-6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3Test 74 inch 154 312 38%/46% 4-5 6.73 1.1 sec -3.2/-2.3 -3.5/-4.1

Chemical test data

CriteriaWashing

(cott/nylon)cc/cs.


Perspirationcc/cs

(alkali)

Perspirationlight

(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorinewater


Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Table 4.9: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 103, Mosaraf, 26’s CardPhysical test data


Bursting(KPA)

Elongation(w/c)%


Tumbledry(w/c)

Laundering(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3.0 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 /-6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3Test 74 inch 157 297 39%/48% 4-5 6.8 0.19 sec -2.9/-3.2 -2.5/-3.25

Chemical test data

CriteriaWashing

(cott/nylon)cc/cs.


Perspirationcc/cs

(alkali)

Perspirationlight

(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorinewater


Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

4.3.3: Process loss calculation: Finish fabrics process loss/ wt. loss were calculated by the

following formula-


Knitting process loss is usually from 0.1% to 0.7%. In this test process loss of grey fabrics

during knitting were not considered.

Table 4.10: Process loss% according to old yarn selection method

S.L Yarn Lot Yarn Price Process Loss1 25,Silver, 26’s Card 3.40$ 13.11% ( Open Finish)2 55 Lot Badsa, 26’s Card 3.35$ 12.81% ( Open Finish)3 43/44 Al Haz Karim, 26’s Card 3.42$ 10.9% ( Open Finish)4 11 Zaber ,26’s Card 3.35$ 12.51% ( Open Finish)5 103 Mosaraf, 26’s Card 3.45$ 11.44% ( Open Finish)

35

.

Figure 4.1: Process loss% according to old yarn selection method

4.3.4. : Dye ability of yarn: Collected sample were dyed in Laboratory at standard dyeing

condition by pre-selected dyes % and evaluated dye ability of yarn by spectrophotometer.

Table 4.11: Dye ability of yarn according to old yarn selection method

S.L Yarn Lot Yarn Price Dye ability (Std 100%)1 25 Silver, 26’s Card 3.40$ 83%2 55 Lot Badsa, 26’s Card 3.35$ 93%3 43/44 Al Haz Karim, 26’s Card 3.42$ 95%4 11 Zaber ,26’s Card 3.35$ 94%5 103 Mosaraf, 26’s Card 3.45$ 103%

0.00%

2.00%

4.00%

6.00%

8.00%

10.00%

12.00%

14.00%

25,Silver, 26’sCard

35

.






25,Silver, 26’sCard 55 Lot

Badsa, 26’sCard

43/44 Al HazKarim, 26’s

Card

11 Zaber ,26’sCard 103

Mosaraf, 26’sCard

Process Loss(Y)

Y-Values

35

.






103Mosaraf, 26’s

Card

36

Figure 4.2: Dye ability of yarn according to old yarn selection method

4.3.5: Cut panel rejection due to fabrics quality problem: Situation of cut panel rejection

due to fabrics quality problem are mentioned below-

Table 4.12: Cut panel rejection 25 Lot Silver, 26’s CardReport for cut panel rejection after cuttingBuyer: Taqwa , Order: Test-1 Color: Royal Batch no. T-14-02-016 Quantity: 17.55 KgsTotal Cutting Pcs.: 122 pcs Total reject pcs.: 10 pcsTypes of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%Foreign Yarn 2 pcs 1.63%Barre mark 1 pcs 0.81%Dirty mark 1 pcs 0.81%Conta 2 pcs 1.63%Thick 1 pcs 0.81%Thin 2 pcs 1.63%Hole 1 pcs 0.81%Fly yarn 0 pcs 0.00%Total: 10 pcs 8.19%

75%

80%

85%

90%

95%

100%

105%


Badsa, 26’sCard

36






Badsa, 26’sCard


Card


Mosaraf, 26’sCard

Dye ability(Y)

Y-Values %

36





103Mosaraf, 26’s

Card

37

Table 4.13: Cut panel rejection 55 Lot Badsa, 26’s CardReport for cut panel rejection after cuttingBuyer: Taqwa , Order: Test-1 Color: Royal Batch no. T-14-02-017 Quantity: 16.74 KgsTotal Cutting Pcs.: 114 pcs Total reject pcs.: 8 pcsTypes of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%Foreign Yarn 1 pcs 0.87%Barre mark 1 pcs 0.87%Dirty mark 0 pcs 0.00%Conta 1 pcs 0.87%Thick 2 pcs 1.75%Thin 2 pcs 1.75%Hole 1 pcs 0.87%Fly yarn 0 pcs 0.00%Total: 8 pcs 7.01%

Table 4.14: Cut panel rejection 43/44 Lot Al Haz Karim, 26’s CardReport for cut panel rejection after cuttingBuyer: Taqwa , Order: Test-1 Color: Royal Batch no. T-14-02-018 Quantity: 17.82 KgsTotal Cutting Pcs.: 124 pcs Total reject pcs.: 7 pcsTypes of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%Foreign Yarn 1 pcs 0.80%Barre mark 0 pcs 0.00%Dirty mark 0 pcs 0.00%Conta 0 pcs 0.00%Thick 2 pcs 1.61%Thin 2 pcs 1.61%Hole 0 pcs 0.00%Fly yarn 2 pcs 1.61%Total: 7 pcs 5.64%

Table 4.15: Cut panel rejection 11 Lot Zaber ,26’s CardReport for cut panel rejection after cuttingBuyer: Taqwa , Order: Test-1 Color: Royal Batch no. T-14-02-019 Quantity: 17.81 KgsTotal Cutting Pcs.: 117pcs Total reject pcs.: 10pcsTypes of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%Foreign Yarn 1 pcs 0.85%Barre mark 0 pcs 0.00%Dirty mark 0 pcs 0.00%Conta 1 pcs 0.85%Thick 1 pcs 0.85%Thin 3 pcs 2.56%Hole 1 pcs 0.85%Fly yarn 2 pcs 1.70%Total: 9 pcs 7.69%

38

Table 4.16: Cut panel rejection 103 Lot Mosaraf, 26’s CardReport for cut panel rejection after cuttingBuyer: Taqwa , Order: Test-1 Color: Royal Batch no. T-14-02-021 Quantity: 17.80 KgsTotal Cutting Pcs.: 115pcs Total reject pcs.: 8 pcsTypes of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%Foreign Yarn 1pcs 0.86%Barre mark 0 pcs 0.00%Dirty mark 0 pcs 0.00%Conta 2 pcs 1.72%Thick 1 pcs 0.86%Thin 2 pcs 1.72%Hole 1 pcs 0.86%Fly yarn 1 pcs 0.86%Total: 8 Pcs 6.95%

Figure 4.3: Cut panel rejection according to old yarn selection method

0.00%2.00%4.00%6.00%8.00%

10.00%


38




Badsa, 26’sCard


Card


Mosaraf, 26’sCard

Cut panel loss %(Y)

38



103Mosaraf, 26’s

Card

39

CHAPTER 5

SAMPLE EVALUATION & DATA COLLECTION (NEW METHOD)

5.1. Sample & data collection

According to new yarn selection method sample were collected from different yarn suppliers.

Cost for sample collection and checking were very small as yarn supplier gave sample yarn for

their own business interest and during sample processing usually utilized existing man power

(except 2 or 3 people for follow up). Collected samples were knitted and dyed in standard

condition. Samples were pre-selected by following sample yarn quality management system.

Top five preselected sample were considered. List of the pre-selected yarn and their price are

mentioned below-

Table 5.1: List of the yarn & their price (new method)

S.L Yarn Lot Yarn Price1 85/13, Al Haj Karim 26,s Card 3.44$2 19,Zaber 26,s Card 3.40$3 02,Lot Asia 26,s Card 3.45$4 05, Lot RMT 26,s Card 3.45$5 68/13, Mosaraf, 26’s Card 3.48$

5.2. Yarn basic quality check data: Collected yarn sample were tested by Lab Q.C and their

basic quality situation are mentioned below-

Table 5.2: Yarn primary quality check data (new method)

Yarn quality check report

Yarn NameLotno

YarnCount

Actualcount

Beforedry wt.(gm)

Afterdry wt.(gm)

Moisturecontent

%

Twist%

Evaluation Remarks

Al Haj Karim 26,s Card 85/13 26,s 25.76,s 12.3gm 11.3gm 8.10% 9.1% OK

Zaber 26,s Card 19 26,s 26.1,s 12.0gm 11.1gm 7.51% 7.7% OK

Asia 26,s Card 02 26,s 25.85,s 11.4gm 10.5gm 7.89% 8.1% OK

RMT 26,s Card 05 26,s 25.70,s 10.5gm 9.6gm 8.57% 7.2% OK

Mosaraf, 26’s Card 68/13 26,s 25.75,s 10.6gm 9.7gm 8.49% 6.8% OK

40

5.3. Fabrics quality check: Collected sample yarn were knitted according to buyer

specification, dyed them in standard condition and following quality parameter are checked.

5.3.1. Greige fabrics quality inspection report: After knitting greige fabrics qualities are

inspected by 4 pint system. Quality situation of greige fabrics are mentioned below-

Table 5.3: Greige fabrics quality inspection report (new method)

Greige fabrics Q.C inspection report

Order no. Test 2Fabrics dia: 70 inch Weight

(Kg)Length

(Y)

Yarntuckstitch

Hole< 1inch

Hole> 1inch

SlubThickyarn

Thinyarn

NapesBroken

spunyarn

Yarndirty

FlyQuality evaluation

Yarn NameLotno.

GradePoint

Grade

Al HajKarim

26,s Card85/13 20.4 86y ǀ ǀ - ǀ ǀǀ ǀǀǀ ǀǀ - ǀ - 7 A

Zaber 26,sCard

19 20.0 84y ǀǀ ǀǀ - ǀǀ ǀǀǀ ǀV - - - - 10 A

Asia 26,sCard

02 20.1 85y - ǀ - ǀ ǀǀǀ ǀǀ - ǀ - ǀ 6 A

RMT 26,sCard

05 20.2 85y ǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ ǀV ǀǀ ǀV ǀ - ǀǀ ǀ 17 A

Mosaraf,26’s Card 68/13 20.1 84y - - - ǀ ǀ ǀǀ - ǀ - - 3 A

5.3.2. Finish fabrics quality inspection report: After dyeing & finishing, finished fabrics

qualities were inspected by 4 pint system. Quality situation of finished fabrics are mentioned

below-

a). Final quality inspection report: Finished fabrics final quality report are mentioned below-

Table 5.4: Finish fabrics quality inspection report (new method)

Finish fabrics Q.C. inspection report

Order no. Test 2Fabric dia: 74 inch Weight

(Kg)Length

(M)Baremark

Hole1

nch

Hole> 1inch

Brokenyarn

Thick ThinForeign

yarnFlyyarn

Yarnconta

Qualityevaluation

Yarn nameYarnlot

TotalPoint

GradePoint

Grade

Al HajKarim26,sCard

85/13

18.36 84y - ǀ ǀ ǀ ǀǀ ǀǀǀ - - ǀǀ 15 9 A

Zaber26,sCard

19 18.15 83y ǀ ǀ ǀ - ǀǀǀ ǀV ǀ - ǀ 19 11 A

Asia 26,sCard

02 18.13 82y ǀǀ - ǀ - ǀ ǀǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ - 16 10 A

RMT26,sCard

05 17.9 81y ǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ ǀǀǀ ǀV Vǀ ǀ - ǀǀǀ 34 20 A

Mosaraf,26’sCard

68/13

18.25 82y - - ǀ ǀǀ ǀǀ ǀV ǀ ǀǀ ǀ 18 11 A

41

b). Lab quality in house test check report:

Table 5.5: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 85/13, Al Haj Karim 26,sCard

Physical test data


Bursting(KPA)

Elongation(w/c) %


Tumbledry(w/c)

Laundering(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3.0 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 / -6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3Test 74 inch 155 315 37%/45% 4-5 6.83 1.1 sec -3.2/-2.3 -2.7/-3.1

Chemical test data

CriteriaWashing

(cott/nylon)cc/cs.


Perspirationcc/cs

(alkali)

Perspirationlight

(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorinewater


Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Table 5.6: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 19, Zaber 26,s Card

Physical test data


Bursting(KPA)

Elongation(w/c) %


Tumbledry(w/c)

Laundering(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3.0 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 / -6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3Test 74 inch 156 307 34%/44%/ 4-5 6.7 0.95 sec -3.9/-3.1 -3.8/-3.1

Chemical test data

CriteriaWashing

(cott/nylon)cc/cs.


Perspirationcc/cs

(alkali)

Perspirationlight

(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorinewater


Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Table 5.7: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 02 , Asia 26,s Card

Physical test data


Bursting(KPA)

Elongation(w/c)%


Tumbledry(w/c)

Laundering(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3.0 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 / -6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3Test 74 inch 158 311 35%/48% 4-5 6.87 1.0 sec -3.3/-3.5 -4.1/-3.3

42

Chemical test data

CriteriaWashing

(cott/nylon)cc/cs.


Perspirationcc/cs

(alkali)

Perspirationlight

(acid/alkali)

Rubbingdry/wet

Chlorinewater


Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Table 5.8: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 05, RMT 26,s Card

Physical test data

Criteria F.WidthF.weight

(g/m2)

Bursting

(KPA))

Elongation

(w/c) %Pilling PH

Water

Absorb

Tumble

dry(w/c)

Laundering

(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3.0 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3/ -6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3

Test 74 inch 155 303 38%/47% 4-5 6.78 0.8 sec -3.5/-2.3 -3.0/-3.1

Chemical test data

Criteria

Washing

(cott/nylon)

cc/cs.

Perspiration

cc/cs (acid)

Perspiration

cc/cs

(alkali)

Perspiration

light

(acid/alkali)

Rubbing

dry/wet

Chlorine

waterBleeding Light Sublimation

Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4

Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Table 5.9: Finish fabrics physical & chemical test report for yarn lot 68/13, Mosaraf, 26’s CardPhysical test data

Criteria F. WidthF.weight

(g/m2)

Bursting

(KPA)

Elongation

(w/c) %Pilling PH

Water

Absorb

Tumble

dry(w/c)

Laundering

(w/c)

Std 160 294 30%/40% 3.0 5.8-7(8) 1.0 sec -5/+3 / -6/+3 -5/+3 / -6/+3

Test 74 inch 156 323 37%/46% 4-5 6.7 0.9 sec -3.9/-2.2 -2.5/-2.25

Chemical test data

Criteria

Washing

(cott/nylon)

cc/cs.

Perspiration

cc/cs (acid)

Perspiration

cc/cs

(alkali)

Perspiration

light

(acid/alkali)

Rubbing

dry/wet

Chlorine

waterBleeding Light Sublimation

Std 3-4 4/3 4/3 4 3-4/2 3-4 4 3 4

Test 4-5/4 4-5/4-5 4-5/4-5 4-5 4-5/3-4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

43

5.3.3: Process loss calculation: Finished fabrics process loss/ wt. loss were calculated by the

following formula-



during knitting is not considered.

Table 5.10: Process loss% according to new yarn selection method

S.L Yarn Lot Yarn Price Process Loss1 85/13, Al Haj Karim 26,s Card 3.44$ 10.00% ( Open Finish)2 19,Zaber 26,s Card 3.40$ 9.25% ( Open Finish)3 02,Lot Asia 26,s Card 3.45$ 9.80% ( Open Finish)4 05, Lot RMT 26,s Card 3.45$ 11.38% ( Open Finish)5 68/13, Mosaraf, 26’s Card 3.48$ 9.20% ( Open Finish)

.

Figure 5.1: Process loss% according to new yarn selection method

0.00%

2.00%

4.00%

6.00%

8.00%

10.00%

12.00%

85/13, Al Haj Karim 26,s Card19,Zaber 26,s Card

43


following formula-






.



02,Lot Asia 26,s Card05, Lot RMT 26,s Card

68/13, Mosaraf, 26’s Card

Process Loss(Y)

Y-Values

43


following formula-






.



44

5.3.4.: Dye ability of yarn: Collected sample were dyed in Laboratory at standard dyeing

condition by pre selected dyes % and evaluated dye ability of yarn by spectrophotometer.

Table 5.11: Dye ability of yarn according to new yarn selection method

S.L Yarn Lot Yarn Price Dye ability (Std 100%1 85/13, Al Haj Karim 26,s Card 3.44$ 102%2 19,Zaber 26,s Card 3.40$ 98%3 02,Lot Asia 26,s Card 3.45$ 103%4 05, Lot RMT 26,s Card 3.45$ 92%5 68/13, Mosaraf, 26’s Card 3.48$ 105%

Figure 5.2: Dye ability of yarn according to new yarn selection method

84%86%88%90%92%94%96%98%100%102%104%106%


44







02,Lot Asia 26,s Card05, Lot RMT 26,s Card


Dye ability(Y)

Y-Values %

44







45



Table 5.12: Cut panel rejection 85/13Lot Al Haj Karim, 26,s Card

Report for cut panel rejection after cuttingBuyer: Taqwa , Order: Test-2 Color: Royal Batch no. T-14-02-080 Quantity: 18.36 KgsTotal Cutting Pcs.: 126 pcs Total reject pcs.: 6 pcsTypes of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%Forgin Yarn 1 pcs 0.79%Barre mark 0 pcs 0.00%Dirty mark 0 pcs 0.00%Conta 1 pcs 0.79%Thick 1 pcs 0.79%Thin 2 pcs 1.58%Hole 1 pcs 0.79%Fly yarn 0 pcs 0.00%Total: 6 pcs 4.76%

Table 5.13: Cut panel rejection 19 Lot Zaber, 26,s Card


Table 5.14: Cut panel rejection 02Lot Asia, 26,s Card


46

Table 5.15: Cut panel rejection 05 Lot RMT, 26,s Card

Report for cut panel rejection after cuttingBuyer: Taqwa , Order: Test-2 Color: Royal Batch no. T-14-02-083 Quantity: 17.9 KgsTotal Cutting Pcs.: 122pcs Total reject pcs.: 8pcsTypes of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%Forgin Yarn 1 pcs 0.82%Barre mark 1 pcs 0.82%Dirty mark 0 pcs 0.00%Conta 1 pcs 0.82%Thick 1 pcs 0.82%Thin 3 pcs 2.45%Hole 1 pcs 0.82%Fly yarn 0 pcs 0.00%Total: 08 pcs 6.55%

Table 5.16: Cut panel rejection 68/13 Lot Mosaraf, 26’s CardReport for cut panel rejection after cuttingBuyer: Taqwa , Order: Test-2 Color: Royal Batch no. T-14-02-084 Quantity: 18.25 KgsTotal Cutting Pcs.: 124pcs Total reject pcs.: 4 pcsTypes of Problem Defective Part in pcs. Deffective part in%Forgin Yarn 0pcs 0.00%Barre mark 0 pcs 0.00%Dirty mark 0 pcs 0.00%Conta 1 pcs 0.80%Thick 1 pcs 0.80%Thin 1 pcs 0.80%Hole 1 pcs 0.80%Fly yarn 0 pcs 0.00%Total: 4 Pcs 2.24%

Figure 5.3: Cut panel loss according to new yarn selection method

0.00%1.00%2.00%3.00%4.00%5.00%6.00%7.00%


Cut panel loss %(Y)

46






Badsa, 26’sCard


Card11 Zaber ,26’s

Card 103Mosaraf, 26’s

Card

Cut panel loss %(Y)

46





47

CHAPTER 6

DATA ANALYSIS & DISCUSSION

6.1. Data comparison and analysis

6.1. 1.Yarn price comparison: Yarn price comparison between old & new yarn selection

methods are shown in the graph below-

Figure 6.1: Yarn price comparison

Above graph it is clearly seen that average yarn price for new yarn selection method (3.444$) is

higher than old yarn selection method (3.394$). So, need extra (3.394$-3.444$)=0.05$ for

purchase per kg yarn.

6.1.2. Yarn basic quality comparison: Yarn basic quality comparison between old and new

yarn selection method are shown in the table below-

Table 6.1: Yarn basic quality comparison

Old yarn selection method New yarn selection methodS.L Yarn Name Yarn

lotQualityevaluation

S.L. Yarn Name Yarnlot

Qualityevaluation

1. Al Haj Karim 26,s Card 85/13 OK 1. Silver, 26’s Card 25 OK2. Zaber 26,s Card 19 OK 2. Badsa, 26’s Card 55 OK3. Asia 26,s Card 02 OK 3. Al Haz Karim, 26’s

Card43/44 OK

4. RMT 26,s Card 05 OK 4. Zaber , 26’s Card 11 OK5. Mosaraf, 26’s Card 68/13 OK 5. Mosaraf, 26’s Card 103 OK

Above table it can be seen that yarn basic quality evaluation for old and new yarn selection

methods are all same (ok).

3.25

3.3

3.35

3.4

3.45

3.5

Sample1 Sample 2 Sample3 Sample4 Sample5

Yarn price $(Old)

Yarn price $(New)

48

6.1.3. Greige fabrics quality comparison: Greige fabrics quality situation comparison

between old and new yarn selection method are shown in the graph below-

.

Figure 6.2: Greige fabrics quality situation comparison

Above figure it can be seen that greige fabrics quality according to new method is higher than

the old method except sample 4 (more point quality is bad & minimum point quality is good).

6.1.4. Finish fabrics quality comparison: Finish fabrics quality situation comparison between

old and new yarn selection method are shown in the graph below-

.

Fig 6.3: Finish fabrics quality situation comparison

Above figure it can be seen that finished fabrics quality according to new method is higher than

the old method.

0

5

10

15

20


Greige fab.quality (Old)

Greige fab. quality (New)

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35


Greige fab.quality (Old)

Greige fab. quality (New)

49

6.1.5. In house quality comparison: In house quality comparison between old and new yarn

selection method are shown in the table below-

Table 6.2: In house quality comparison

In house TestOld yarn selection method New yarn selection methodS.L

Yarn Name Yarnlot

In-houseTest

S.L.

Yarn Name Yarnlot

In-houseTest

1. Al Haj Karim 26,s Card 85/13 Pass 1. Silver, 26’s Card 25 Pass2. Zaber 26,s Card 19 Pass 2. Badsa, 26’s Card 55 Pass3. Asia 26,s Card 02 Pass 3. Al Haz Karim, 26’s Card 43/44 Pass4. RMT 26,s Card 05 Pass 4. Zaber , 26’s Card 11 Pass5. Mosaraf, 26’s Card 68/13 Pass 5. Mosaraf, 26’s Card 103 Pass

Above table it can be seen that in house quality evaluation for old and new yarn selection

methods are pass according to buyer quality requirement.

6.1.6. Process loss comparison: Process loss comparison between old and new yarn selection

method are shown in the graph below-

Figure 6.4: Process loss comparison

Above figure it can be seen that average process loss according to new method (9.926%) is

lower than the old method (12.154%). So, it can be save 12.154%-9.926%=2.228%/ kg yarn.

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14


Process loss%(Old)

Process loss%(New)

50

6.1.7. Dye ability comparison: Comparison of dye ability according to old and new yarn

selection method are shown in the graph below-

Figure 6.5: Dye ability comparison

Above figure it can be seen that average dye ability of yarn according to new method is higher

than the old method (4.6%). Sample 4 & sample 5 dye ability of yarn in both yarn selection

methods are almost same.

6.1.8. Cut panel loss comparison: Comparison of cut panel rejection according to old and new

yarn selection method are shown in the graph below-

Figure 6.6: Cut panel loss comparison

Above figure it can be seen that average cut panel rejection according to new method (4.178%)

is lower than the old method (7.942%). So, it can be save 7.09%-4.178%=2.912%/ kg finished

fabrics.

0

20

40

60

80

100

120


Dye ability%(Old)

Dye ability%(New)

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9


Cut panel loss%(Old)

Cut panel loss%(New)

51

6.2: Cost calculation: Cost calculation for old & new yarn selection methods were checked

these are describe step by step below-

6.2.1. Cost calculation for process loss or wt. loss of fabrics: Cost associated due to process

loss during dyeing finishing are given below-

Table 6.3: Cost effectiveness including process loss according to old method.

Old Method

S.L

Yarn NameYarn

Price/Kg($)

Processloss%

Yarn consumptionincluding Process

loss% for 1Kgfinish fabrics (in

Kg)

Yarn Priceincluding Process

loss% for 1Kgfinish fabrics(in

$)

AverageYarn

price(for1Kg finish

fabrics(in $)

1 25 Silver, 24’S Card 3.4 13.11% 1.1311 3.84574

3.806

2 55 Lot Badsa, 26’s Card 3.35 12.81% 1.1281 3.779135

3 43/44 Al Haz Karim, 26’s Card 3.42 10.90% 1.1090 3.79278

4 11 Zaber, 26’s Card 3.35 12.51% 1.1251 3.769085

5 103 Mosaraf, 26’s Card 3.45 11.44% 1.1144 3.84468

Table 6.4: Cost effectiveness including process loss according to new method.

New Method

S.L

Yarn NameYarn

Price/Kg($)

Processloss%

Yarn consumtionincluding Process

loss% for 1Kgfinish fabrics (in

Kg)

Yarn Priceincluding

Process loss%for 1Kg finishfabrics(in $)

AverageYarn

price(for1Kg finish

fabrics(in $)

185/13 Lot, Al Haj Karim 26,s

Card3.44 10.00% 1.1000 3.784

3.7872 19 Lot, Zaber 26,s Card 3.4 9.25% 1.0925 3.7145

3 02, Lot Asia 26,S Card 3.45 9.80% 1.0980 3.7881

4 05 Lot, RMT 26, Card 3.45 11.38% 1.1138 3.84261

5 68/13 Lot , Mosaraf, 26,s Card 3.48 9.20% 1.0920 3.80016

Average yarn price (for 1 kg finish fabric) including process loss according to old yarn

selection method is 3.806$ and new method 3.787$. So, it can be save (3.806$-3.787$) =0.019$

for 1 kg finish fabrics only for process loss.

52

6.2.2. Cost calculation for dye ability of yarn: Cost associated due to dye ability of yarn arementioned below-Table 6.5: Cost effectiveness for dye ability of yarn according to old method

Old Method

S.L Yarn Name

Dyeabilityin %

Dyes consumption according todye ability Price/

Kgdyes($)

Fabrics need todye for get 1Kgfinish fabrics inKg (includingProcess loss%)

Dyes Cost fordyeing 1 Kg

Finish fabrics in$ (Let Process

loss 10%)

Averagedyes

cost/kg($)Name of the dyes

Shade%

125 Silver, 24’S

Card87%

Sunzol Yellow -S3R 0.282 4.50

1.131

0.01435

0.914

Sunzol Turquise Blue G 0.847 9.10 0.08718

Sunzol Blue RSPL 4.520 17.50 0.89470

255 Lot Badsa,

26’s Card 93%


1.128

0.01355


Sunzol Blue RSPL 4.280 17.50 0.84495


Card100%


1.109

0.01248


Sunzol Blue RSPL 4.000 17.50 0.77630

411 Zaber, 26’s

Card94%


1.125

0.01342


Sunzol Blue RSPL 4.240 17.50 0.83482

5103 Mosaraf,

26’s Card 103%


1.114

0.01214


Sunzol Blue RSPL 3.880 17.50 0.75668

Table 6.6: Cost effectiveness for dye ability of yarn according to new method

New Method

S.L Yarn Name

Dyeabilityin %

Dyes consumption according todye ability Price/

Kgdyes($)

Fabrics need todye for get 1Kgfinish fabrics inKg (includingProcess loss%)

Dyes Cost fordyeing 1 KgsFinish fabrics

in $ (LetProcess loss

10%)

Average dyescost/kg ($)

Name of the dyesShade

%

1

85/12 LotAl Haj

Karim 26,sCard

102%


1.100

0.01213

0.857


Sunzol Blue RSPL 3.920 17.50 0.75460

219 Lot

Zaber 26,sCard

98%Sunzol Yellow -S3R 0.255 4.50

1.0930.01254

Sunzol Turquise Blue G 0.765 9.10 0.07605Sunzol Blue RSPL 4.080 17.50 0.78005

3 02 Lot Asia26,S Card 103%

Sunzol Yellow -S3R 0.242 4.501.098

0.01196Sunzol Turquise Blue G 0.727 9.10 0.07264

Sunzol Blue RSPL 3.880 17.50 0.74554

405 Lot RMT

26, Card 92%Sunzol Yellow -S3R 0.270 4.50

1.1140.01353


568/13 Lot ,Mosaraf,26,s Card

105%Sunzol Yellow -S3R 0.237 4.50

1.0920.01165


53

Average dyeing cost (for 1 kg finish fabric) including dye ability according to old yarn

selection method is 0.914$ and new method 0.857$. So, according to new yarn selection

method, it can be save (0.914$-0.857$) =0.057$ during dyeing for 1 kg finish fabric.

6.2.3. Cost calculation for cut panel rejection: Cost associated due to cut panel rejection are

mentioned below

Table 6.7: Cost effectiveness including cut panel loss according to old method

Table 6.8: Cost effectiveness including cut panel loss according to new method

New Method

S.L

Yarn NameFinishFabricsPrice $

Cuttingloss%

Finish fabricsconsumption

including cuttingloss%

Finished fabricsprice includingcut panel loss

(in $)

Averageprice (in $)

185/13 Lot, Al Haj Karim 26,s

Card4.624 4.76% 1.048 4.84410

4.8372 19 Lot, Zaber 26,s Card 4.582 3.25% 1.033 4.73092

3 02, Lot Asia 26,S Card 4.618 4.09% 1.041 4.80688

4 05 Lot, RMT 26, Card 4.779 6.55% 1.066 5.09202

5 68/13 Lot , Mosaraf, 26,s Card 4.608 2.24% 1.022 4.71122

Average cost including cut panel rejection according to old yarn selection method is 4.108$ and

new method 3.944$. So, it can be said that (5.055$-4.837$) =0.218$ save per kg finished

fabrics due to cut panel rejection.

Old Method

S.L

Yarn NameFinishFabricsPrice $

Cuttingloss%

Finish fabricsconsumption

includingcutting panel

loss%

Finished fabricsprice includingcut panel loss

(in $)

Averageprice (in $)

1 25 Silver, 24’S Card 4.841 8.19% 1.082 5.23748

5.055

2 55 Lot Badsa, 26’s Card 4.719 7.01% 1.070 5.04980

343/44 Al Haz Karim, 26’s

Card4.656 5.64% 1.056 4.91860

4 11 Zaber, 26’s Card 4.698 7.69% 1.077 5.05928

5 103 Mosaraf, 26’s Card 4.686 6.95% 1.070 5.01168

54

6.2. 4. Total cost effectiveness of yarn:

Table 6.9: Total cost effectiveness according to old method

Old Yarn Selection method

Name of expense

Monthly cost/ 300 ( Grey)

Ton,Finish 263.5

ton

25Lot Silver,24’S Card(Cost /Kg

Finish Fab.)

55 LotBadsa,

26’s Card(Cost /Kg

FinishFab.)

43/44 LotAl HazKarim,

26’sCard(Cost

/KgFinishFab.)

11 Zaber,26’s

Card(Cost/Kg

FinishFab.)

103Mosaraf,

26’sCard(Cost/Kg

FinishFab.)

AverageCost/KgFinishFabrics

Raw materials

$6.051

1. Direct raw material cost(Yarn price) Yarn price $3.400 $3.350 $3.420 $3.350 $3.450

2. Fabrics wt. loss due to Knitting dyeingProcessloss%

$0.445 $0.429 $0.372 $0.419 $0.394

2. Dyes and chemicals DCA Cost $0.996 $0.940 $0.864 $0.929 $0.842

3. Fabrics cutting losCuttingloss%

$0.396 $0.330 $0.262 $0.361 $0.325

Ordering cost

1. Merchandising & Marketing Cost $26,100 $0.099 $0.099 $0.099 $0.099 $0.099

Design Changes

1. Development cost (Sample) $7,400 $0.028 $0.028 $0.028 $0.028 $0.028

Order Size

1. Knitting $7,500 $0.028 $0.028 $0.025 $0.025 $0.025

2. Utilities Gas, Diesel, Water, Air,ETP $59,000 $0.224 $0.224 $0.224 $0.224 $0.224

3. Maintenance $18,900 $0.072 $0.072 $0.072 $0.072 $0.072

4. Factory equipment depreciation $43,400 $0.165 $0.165 $0.165 $0.165 $0.165

5. Setting Changes $12,400 $0.047 $0.047 $0.047 $0.047 $0.047

6. Administrative Building lease $7,000 $0.027 $0.027 $0.027 $0.027 $0.027

7. Office equipment depreciation $5,600 $0.021 $0.021 $0.021 $0.021 $0.021

8. Poly, Pipe etc $3,100 $0.012 $0.012 $0.012 $0.012 $0.012

Labor wages

1. Textile department wages( $49,500 $0.195 $0.195 $0.195 $0.195 $0.195

2. Indirect factory wages $1,500 $0.006 $0.006 $0.006 $0.006 $0.006

3. Security, Administration etc $10,500 $0.040 $0.040 $0.040 $0.040 $0.040

Customer relation

1. Buyer audit $3,200 $0.0121 $0.0121 $0.0121 $0.0121 $0.0121

Others

1. Compliance, CSR & Safety activity $2,500 $0.009 $0.009 $0.009 $0.009 $0.009

2. Factory sustaining cost( ISO,Okotex,WRAP)

$3,300 $0.013 $0.013 $0.013 $0.013 $0.013

TOTALFINISH FABRICS COST/KGS INCLUDINGCUTTING LOSS =

$6.235 $6.047 $5.913 $6.054 $6.006

55

Table 6.10: Total cost effectiveness according to new method

New Yarn Selection method

Name of expense

Monthly cost /300

( Grey) Ton,Finish 270 ton

85/12 LotAl HajKarim26,s

Card(Cost/Kg Finish

Fab.)

19 LotZaber

26,s Card(Cost/Kg

FinishFab.)

02 LotAsia 26,S

Card(Cost /Kg

FinishFab.)

05 LotRMT 26,Card(Co

st /KgFinishFab.)

68/13,Mosaraf

, 26’sCard(Co

st /KgFinishFab.)

AverageCost/Kgs

FinishFabrics

Raw materials

$5.806

1. Direct raw materil cost(Yarn price) Yarn price $3.440 $3.400 $3.450 $3.450 $3.4802. Fabrics wt. loss due to Knitting dyeing Process loss% $0.344 $0.314 $0.338 $0.392 $0.3202. Dyes and chemicals DCA Cost $0.840 $0.868 $0.830 $0.937 $0.8083. Fabrics cutting loss Cutting loss% $0.220 $0.148 $0.188 $0.313 $0.103Ordering cost1. Merchandising & Marketing Cost $26,100 $0.097 $0.097 $0.097 $0.097 $0.097Design Changes1. Development cost (Sample) $8,050 $0.030 $0.030 $0.030 $0.030 $0.030Order Size1. Knitting $7,500 $0.028 $0.028 $0.028 $0.028 $0.0282. Utilities( Gas, Diesel, Water, Air, ETP) $59,000 $0.219 $0.219 $0.219 $0.219 $0.2193. Maintenance $18,900 $0.070 $0.070 $0.070 $0.070 $0.0704. Factory equipment depreciation $43,400 $0.161 $0.161 $0.161 $0.161 $0.1615. Setting Changes $12,400 $0.046 $0.046 $0.046 $0.046 $0.0466. Administrative Building lease $7,000 $0.026 $0.026 $0.026 $0.026 $0.0267. Office equipment depreciation $5,600 $0.021 $0.021 $0.021 $0.021 $0.0218. Poly, Pipe etc $3,100 $0.011 $0.011 $0.011 $0.011 $0.011Labor wages1. Textile department wages(Knitting,dyeing,maintenance)

$49,500 $0.183 $0.183 $0.183 $0.183 $0.183

2. Indirect factory wages $1,500 $0.006 $0.006 $0.006 $0.006 $0.0063. Security, Administration etc $10,500 $0.039 $0.039 $0.039 $0.039 $0.039Customer relation1. Buyer audit $3,200 $0.0119 $0.0119 $0.0119 $0.0119 $0.0119Others1. Compliance, CSR & Safety activity $2,500 $0.009 $0.009 $0.009 $0.009 $0.0092. Factory sustaining cost (ISO, Oekotex,WRAP)

$3,300 $0.012 $0.012 $0.012 $0.012 $0.012

TOTALFINISH FABRICS COST/KGS INCLUDINGCUTTING LOSS =

$5.813 $5.700 $5.776 $6.062 $5.681

Average cost effectiveness of yarn according to old yarn selection method (up to cut panel

rejection) is 6.051$ and new method 5.803$. So, it can be said that finally (6.051$-5.806$)

=0.245$ save per kg finished fabrics up to cut panel rejection.

56

CHAPTER 7

CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION

7.1. Conclusion: Knit readymade garment of Bangladesh is the most dominating textile sector

and almost well established in Bangladesh. But day by day the industry is going to fall into

very husky situation due to competitive business environment and globalization. To retain the

business sustainable and potential textile industries growth it is necessary to focus on optimum

profit and quality. The study shows better result for new developed method though the average

yarn price were 0.05$/kg higher than the old method. The average process losses were 2.228%

lower, dye ability was 4.6% higher and cut panel losses were 2.912% lower which not only

offset the extra yarn price but also reduce total manufacturing cost. Quality situation (greige,

finish, In house) were also much more better in new yarn selection method from old yarn

selection method. Considering all data total cost for finished fabric were 0.245$/kg lower than

the old yarn selection method ie. Profitability increase 4.14% according to new yarn selection

method. So, it is recommended that need to follow this new method for cotton yarn selection as

profitability increased as well as quality situation improved by this method.

7.2. Recommendation: In this study existing or old and new yarn selection methods were

evaluated considering fabric quality, dye ability, process loss and finally cost effectiveness

among them. Reflect on the findings of the study the new yarn selection method should be

adapted in all knit composite industry. With a bit of tuning the methodology of the study can be

accustomed for all kind of garment industry and hence an improved solution may be found.

57

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