Processing and raw materials for botanically...10 Extraction of oils from seeds, kernels and fruits...

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Lipid knowledge for the personal care industry Processing and raw materials for botanically derived emollients Jari Alander 2019

Transcript of Processing and raw materials for botanically...10 Extraction of oils from seeds, kernels and fruits...

Page 1: Processing and raw materials for botanically...10 Extraction of oils from seeds, kernels and fruits Pre-treatment •The seeds etc are cleaned, sometimes boiled and dried Mechanical

Lipid knowledge for the personal care industry

Processing and raw materials for botanically

derived emollients

Jari Alander

2019

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Our vegetable raw material base

Canola

Soya

Shea

Illipe

Palm

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Natural stearic/palmitic butters (long chain C16/C18)

Shea CocoaIllipe / Shorea Cupuaçu Sal Palm

Main region West Africa All tropics Borneo Amazon India Malaysia

Main fatty acids (typical value %):

Palmitic C16:0 4 26 17 9 5 44

Stearic C18:0 43 36 45 36 44 4

Oleic C18:1 44 33 35 43 40 40

Linoleic C18:2 6 3 2 2 2 10

Arachnic acid C20:0 7 7

Melting Point (°C) 28–34 32–36 34 27–37 31 37

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Natural lauric butters (medium chain C12/C14)

Name CoconutHydrogenated

CoconutPalm

KernelBabaçu Murumuru

Main fatty acids (typical value %):

Caprylic C8:0 8 8 4 5 2

Capric C10:0 6 6 4 4 2

Lauric C12:0 47 47 47 43 47

Myristic C14:0 18 18 15 17 26

Palmitic C16:0 8 9 8 9 6

Stearic C18:0 <3 11 2 4 2

Oleic C18:1 7 0.5 16 14 12

Linoleic C18:2 <2 <0.1 <3 3 2

Melting Point (°C) 20–28 32 25–30 21–27 32–36

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Mono-unsaturated oils, some examples

Name

Olive Oil HO Sunflower Rapeseed Oil

Akogreen O Akosun HO Brassica Oil

Main fatty acids (typical value %):

Palmitic - C16:0 13 4 4

Stearic - C18:0 2 6 2

Oleic - C18:1 71 85 75

Linoleic - C18:2 11 5 14

Linolenic - C18:3 <1 2

Sterols (mg/100g) 100–200 480–1130

Tocopherols (mg/100g) <20 50 40–270

OSI (110°C) 12 20 16

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Name Soybean Cottonseed

Main fatty acids (typical value %):

Palmitic - C16:0 11 22

Stearic - C18:0 3 3

Oleic - C18:1 22 17

Linoleic - C18:2 55 55

Linolenic - C18:3 (ω-3) 6 0.3

Sterols (mg/100g) 180–410 270–640

Tocopherols (mg/100g) 60–340 30–120

OSI (110°C) 7 4

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Some poly-unsaturated oils

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Functionality

– Fatty acid composition

– Consistency

– Presence of minor lipid components

Sustainability assessment

– Farmed crops: land use efficacy, environmental impact & traceability

– Wild growing crops: contribution to social and economical development

Marketability assessment

– Interesting marketing stories

– Consumer awareness

How AAK selects raw materials for cosmetic ingredients

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Shea butter

– High functionality in skin care

– Moisturization

– Skin feel

– Skin repair and protection

– Contributes to all sustainability dimensions

– Protection of environment

– Social development

– Economic development

Canola oil

– High functionality in skin care

– Rich in Vitamin E and phytosterols

– Renewable, high yielding oil crop

– Local sourcing from a clean environment

Our favorite raw materials

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I Cold-pressed, unrefined oils

– Minimally processed → oxidation products and environmental

contaminants not removed

– May contain high levels of residual proteins

II Refined and deodorized single source oils

– Processed to remove oxidation products and environmental contaminants

→ Canola oil, Soybean oil, Sunflower oil, Sweet almond oil

III Vegetable oil based cosmetic ingredients

– Vegetable oils and derivatives with specific functionality for cosmetic applications

– Lipex emollients, Ako* functional ingredients

Grades of natural oils for cosmetics

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Extraction of oils from seeds, kernels and fruits

Pre-treatment

•The seeds etcare cleaned, sometimesboiled and dried

Mechanicalextraction

•The seeds areground and subjected to high pressureto press out oil

•The pressingresidual(seedcake) is rich in proteins and carbohydrates

Solvent extraction

•Residual oil in press cake is extracted withsolvent

•Pressed and extracted oil is mixed to form the crude oil

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Removal of undesirablecomponents from crude oil

Degumming Neutralization Bleaching Deodorization

• Lecithin• Proteins• Sugars•Metals

• Free fattyacids

• Proteins

• Pigments•Oxidation products•Metals• Proteins

• Free fattyacids

• Proteins• Flavor compounds

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Crude versus deodorized oil

Rapeseed oil Crude Refined

Solid particles, % 0.01 Below detection

Lecithins, % 0.5 0.001

Free fatty acid, % 1 0.02

Pigments, mg/kg

- Carotenoids- Chlorophyll

2510

<10.1

Flavor and odorsubstances

Odor andflavor

Neutral

Oxidation products

- Peroxides,- Secondary, AV

1–41–5

0.21

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AAK soft processing retains 85–90% of the original sterol and tocopherol content

Retention of valuable lipids

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Modification processesimprove functionality

Optimize texture

Hydrogenation

(liquid->solid)

Interesterification

(change melting profile)

Mix components

Increase stability

Hydrogenation

Add antioxidants

Change appearance

Solvent fractionation

Dry fractionation

Winterization

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Hundreds of oilseed sources are available but less than 50 oilsare produced in commercial quantities

Oils need to be extracted from the raw material and the crude oilneeds to be purified

– Remove environmental contaminants

– Remove undesired minor components

– Improve stability and usability

Modification processes are used to optimize properties

Raw materials and processes– summary

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© 2019 AAK Sweden ABNo part of this presentation may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of AAK Sweden AB. Disclaimer: This presentation is intended for educational purposes only. AAK Sweden AB shall not be liable for any third-party claims or losses of any nature, including, but not limited to, lost profits, punitive or consequential damages.

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