PRINTING

• Textile printing is one of the procedure of textile decoration. Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. It is also known as localized dyeing.

Styles of Print

• Direct Style

• Discharge styleWhite dischargeColored discharge

• Resist StyleWhite ResistColored Resist

DISCHARGE

RESIST

METHODS OF PRINTING

Basically there are three methods of printing:

1. Block Printing

2. Screen Printing

3. Roller Printing

Block Printing

Advantages of block printing

• The method is simple to operate and does not require elaborate and expensive equipment .

• There is no limiting of size factor in respect of size of repeat.

Disadvantage of block printing

• The method is slow and therefore, has a low output and its cost is high.

• It is difficult to cut minute fine lines. so it is

not possible to obtain very fine designs.• Due to separate impression of the block, it becomes

somewhat difficult to join up each repeat perfectly with other impression resulting in an imperfect joining.

• The method involves manual work; it is therefore quite laborious.

Screen Printing

Screen Printing• Hand Screen Printing

Important Features and advantages1-Best method for low yardage; samples; exclusive, limited quantity designs.2-Large repeat sizes (upto120 in.) possible.3-Acceptable to all woven and knitted constructions.4-Rapid preparation of screen and pattern change over is possible.5-Ability to print cut garment parts and small items.

Limitations and Disadvantages

• Half tone designs not possible.

• Fine line paisley prints not possible.

• Lengthwise stripe designs not possible.

• Slow production uneconomical for large production yardages.

Automatic Flat-Screen Printing Machine

Flat Screen Printing• In flat screen printing, a screen on

which print paste has been applied is lowered onto a section of fabric.

• A squeeze then moves across the screen, forcing the print paste through the screen and into the fabric.

• Flat screen machines are used mostly in printing terry towels.

Automatic Flat-Screen Printing Machine

• Important Features and advantages• Large repeat sizes (upto120 in.) possible.• Faster than hand.• Adaptable to all woven and knitted Constructions.• Rapid change over of design is possible.• Best machine registration.

• Limitations and Disadvantages• Cost of screen preparation and special mounting

more costly than hand screen.• Not adoptable to low yardage.• Fine-line paisley prints not possible.• Lengthwise stripes not possible.

Rotary Screen Printing

Rotary Screen

• In rotary screen printing, tubular screens rotate at the same velocity as the fabric.

• Print paste distributed inside the tubular screen is forced into the fabric as it is pressed between the screen and a printing blanket (a continuous rubber belt).

• Rotary screen printing machines are used mostly but not exclusively for bottom weight apparel fabrics or fabric not for apparel use.

• Most knit fabric is printed by the rotary screen method, because it does not stress (pull or stretch) the fabric during the process.

Rotary ScreenImportant Features and Advantages

• Over 40 inch repeat size possible; larger than roller printing, but smaller than flat screen.

• Lengthwise stripe effect possible.• Fall on designs possible. Adaptable to all woven & knitted

constructions.• Clear and brighter colors than on roller prints.• Excellent color definitions, but less than flat screen methods.• Rapid change over of design possible.• Efficient for long runs and moderately small (1000yds) runs.

Limitations and Disadvantages

• Fine line paisley prints not possible.

• Half tone designs not as effective as in roller printing.

• Screen do not last as long as rollers.

Roller print

• Important features and advantages• Requires long production runs of same pattern (10000 yds)• Best method for fine line patterns and paisley prints.• Can produce half tones and fall on effects.• Can print woven fabrics, knitted fabrics require special handling.• In the roller printing process, print paste is applied to an engraved roller, and

the fabric is guided between it and a central cylinder.• The pressure of the roller and central cylinder forces the print paste into the

fabric.• Because of the high quality it can achieve, roller printing is the most

appealing method for printing designer and fashion apparel fabrics.

Engraved Roller Printing

• Approximately 26% of printed goods• Advantages

– High design capability– Fine detail– Multiple tones

• Disadvantages• Copper cylinders very expensive• Not economical for short runs• Requires highly skilled workers

Heat Transfer

• Important Features and Advantages• Produces bright, sharp, clear fine line designs.• Ability to print cut garment parts and small items.• Adaptable to long and short yardages runs.• Rapid pattern changeover possible.• Simple, low investment installation possible.• Steamers washers, dryers etc not required.• Fewest seconds of all print process.• Heat setting also accomplished.

Heat transferLimitations and Disadvantages

• Limited to fabrics having minimum 50% manmade fibers. Cellulosic and protein (100%) fibers can not be printed.

Heat transfer printing

• Approximately 7% of printed goods

• Advantages• High quality prints• Fewer seconds• Economical for short runs• Practically pollution free

• Disadvantages• Slow• Primarily only for polyester

Pigment Print

• Pigment Prints are direct prints made with pigments.• The process is frequently called dry printing as

distinguished from wet printing.• The pigment area will be slightly stiffer and perhaps

a bit thicker than the non print area.• Pigment prints are the least costly type of print.• Pigment produce bright, rich colors, and are applied

to all textile fibers.• It has good to excellent fastness to light and dry

cleaning.

Identification of Pigment Prints

• Comparing the differences in fabric stiffness between a design printed portion and a non-printed portion of the same fabric.

• The pigment print area will be slightly stiffer and a bit thicker than the non-print area.

• Deep shades are stiffer than light shades.

Blotch Prints

• Background has been obtained by printing rather than piece dyeing; Direct Print; The print and pattern design colour are printed on to a white fabric in one printing operation; imitates discharge or resist print effects.

• Identification:• The blotch print background colour is lighter on backside

of the fabric.• Possibilities of large background colour areas of the print

are not covered with full depth of colours; precision control is necessary; if pigment prints, fabrics very often result in objectionable stiff hand.

Flock Printing

• Tiny particles of fibers (1/10”- ¼”) are made to adhere to a fabric surface in according to a particular design; printing the design with adhesive; exposing the fiber flock to the fabric.

• There are two methods of adhering the flock to the adhesive treated fabric surface:

• Mechanical Flocking.• Electrostatic Flocking

Warp Prints

• Warp prints involve printing the warp yarns of a fabric before it is placed on the loom for weaving, then the fabric is woven with a solid color weft usually white or contrast color.

• The result is a soft, shadowy design on the fabric; producing warp prints require careful and skilled labor; these prints are found almost exclusively on high quality and expensive fabrics.

Burn-out Prints

• Printing with chemical substance (sulfuric acid) that will destroy the fiber in the pattern design print area;

• Fabrics are used in low-cost summer blouses and cotton lingerie;

• Interesting designs can be created with blends.

Duplex Prints

• Fabrics in which both sides of the fabric have been printed;

• Imitate Jacquard & dobby woven design fabric;

• Very expensive printing

Engineering Prints

• Prints that have two or more distinct designs,

• Each located in separate areas of the fabric, and each designed to become a specific part of the garment;

• Printed by hand screen or heat transfer method.