CT-502

Topic No:4

Topic Name: Pressing Inspection

Submitted by:

Name: Aas Saminaz Faizanur Chowdhury.

Roll No: 3137.

Session: 2006-2007.

Clothing & Textile Department

Questions:

1.Definition of Pressing, Inspection & Pressing Inspection.

2.State the objects of Pressing Inspection.

3. Point out the categories of Pressing Inspection.

4.Point out the necessary equimpment of pressing.

5.Which matters are must be inspected during pressing?

6.How much time Pressing Inspection have been done?

7.How did Pressing Inspection is evaluated?

8. Pressing & Ironing Equipments

9.History of iron.

10.Defference between “Pressing”& “Ironing.”

1.Definition of Pressing, Inspection & Pressing Inspection:

Pressing:

The process by which unwanted crease & wrinkle are removed with the view of increasing smoothness, brightness and beauty of the garments is

called pressing.

Inspection:

The Inspection is done to control the quality by means of visual examination of Pressing Inspection the products without any instruments.

Pressing Inspection:

The Inspection process , which identifying the faults or defects of pressing according to buyer’s check list is called

Pressing Inspection.

2.State the objects of Pressing Inspection.

Objects of Pressing Inspection:a.Removal of unwanted creases &

wrinkles according to buyer order.b.To apply creases where necessary

according to buyer’s check list.c.Shapping variation area if any.d.Proper drying of garments after

pressing.e.Wrinkles area & rough surface of pocket

if any.f. Fused area or fused stain if any.g.Shade variation are if any.h.Stretched garments area during

pressing if any.

1. Point out the categories of Pressing Inspection:

Categories of Pressing Inspection:a. No Pressing Inspection.b.Minimum Pressing Inspection.c.Under Pressing Inspection.d.Final Pressing Inspection.e. Permanent Pressing Inspection.

4. Point out the necessary equipment of pressing.

Necessary Equipments of pressing:1.Iron2.Steam press3.Steam air finish4.Steam tunnel.

5.Which matters are must be inspected during pressing?

The following are the matters must be inspected during pressing: Inspected for fused area or fused stain if

any. Inspected for water spot if any. Inspected for shade variation area if

any. Inspected for broken chain & button if

any. Inspected for correct folding of

garments. Inspected for stretched garments area

during pressing if any. Inspected for proper drying of garments

after pressing,

Inspected for wrinkles area & rough surface of pocket if any.

Inspected for unexpected crease in lining.

Inspected for proper shape.

This is also informed that, the temperature,

Pressure of pressing head & time during pressing must be inspected.

6.How much time pressing inspection have been done?

Generally pressing inspection have beendone In two times. They are-

1. Before pressing inspection. &2. After pressing inspection.

In fact , before & after pressing the shape of garments are increase or decrease it will be informed by pressing inspection.

7.How did pressing inspection is evaluated?

Pressing Inspection is done to evaluate- Correctness of shape of neck/soulder/sleeve/side

seam/Bottom hem in Uppers; and shape of waist/hip/side seam/in seam/leg opening in bottoms.

No shiny marks/crease marks on seams. No colour fading. No dust marks/stain marks/oil marks. Pressing as required.

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8.Pressing & Ironing Equipment:

Pressing & Ironing Equipment

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Tags: 

Heat Press Ironing

Machines

Embroidery Equipment for Leisure & Allied Trades Fabric Cutting Fusing & Heat Transfer Inspection Laser Cutting/Engraving Equipment Laundry Medical Waste Management Systems Needle Detection Oil Purifiers Ozone Generators Pressing & Ironing Sewing

Civil Security Services

Cutting room Solutions by Lectra

Embroidery Machines

Embroidery Production

Equipment for Leisure & Allied Trades

Fusing & Heat Transfer Machines

High-speed Manual Cutting Machines

Inspection Machines

L E D Lighting Concept

Laser Cutting/Engraving Equipment

Laundry Machines

Medical Waste??

Needle Detection Equipment

Oil Purifiers

ORGAN Needles

Ozone Generators

Pressing & Ironing Equipment

Sealing & Bonding by Framis

Sequin Manufacturing

Servo Motors

Sewing Machines

9.History of Iron

Other Mechanical Ironers [This Page] o The Conlon o The ABC Ironer o The ABC Ironer and the Atomic Bomb o The Gladiron (Free Manual Available) o The Simplex o The General Electric Ironer o The Universal Ironer o The Speed Queen Ironer o The Kenmore Ironer

Theory and History of Ironing [Separate Page]

o Why Are We Doing This? o Early Ironing o Critical Dimensions of Ironing o Mrs. Potts and the Sad Iron o The American Beauty Iron o The Pyrex Silver Streak Iron o The Pettipoint Winged Iron o The Iron Handle o The Thermostat o The Winstead-Singer Durabilt Travel Iron o Steam Irons o The Future o Underwriters Laboratory Standards for Irons o Starch - the Old Fashioned Way o Etymology of the Dreaded "M" Word o Replacement Cords for Appliances

The Ironrite Ironer [Separate Page] o Introducing The Ironrite o The Ironrite Health Chair o Oiling the Machine and All About that Special Ironrite Oil... o Electrical Problems o All About Motors o Changing the Roll or Muslin on the Ironrite o Ironrite Promotional Trinkets o Ironrite Manuals Available for Free o Help Us Find Louise! o Ironrite Movies That You Can Watch o The Built-In Ironrite

The Conlon Ironer

Numerous companies made ironers --- Maytag, Westinghouse and GE were major mass market players. there were also small regional outfits like the Conlon company which made a very attractive ironer that

stronly resembles the Iron Rite. The major difference is that the heated "iron" is on top of the roll rather than beneath it. It appears that the Conlon Company (later Conlon-Moore) was manufacturing Ironers in the early 1920s.

Conlon Ironer Patents(l to r) 1,652,561; 1,853,395; 1,867,839; and 2,365,542

Click to Enlarge

The conlon Company seems to have advertised quite a bit as these ads show. Of note is the 1931 ad from Spokane that shows an ironer very similar to Patent No. 1,652,561. Other ads follow the general theme of "saves time" and "Easy to Use". The Ironer priced at $139.00 (in 1931) was very expensive, especially in the Depression. Adjusting for inflation, this sum is equivalent to about $3,200 in 2009 dollars.

Conlon Ironer Advertisements

Click to Enlarge

I know very little of this company and I am thrilled that one of our readers sent these photos to us. If any of our other viewers know more about this company, please Contact Me.

The Conlon Ironer, External Appearance

Details of Roll and Motor

Conlon Ironer in Ironing PositionClick to Enlarge

Here are some more Conlon pictures sent in to us by our friend Bob in Oxnard, California. He writes:

"... What a surprise to find your web site. I was searching for a Conlon Ironer corporation web site to obtain if possible a Conlon Ironer Manual. I did not find it but I found your web site and imagine my surprise when you had a photo of exactly my Conlon Ironer. I am attaching a photo of my Conlon Ironer. For what it's worth. My wife died about 2 years ago and last week I pulled our old Conlon Ironer out of storage in my garage. I cleaned it up and plugged it in and to my amazement it worked. We bought our Conlon Ironer in the late 1950's in Topeka, Kansas. My wife really loved it and would never think of getting rid of it even though she had not used it in years. As you indicated, everything was ironed back then. My wife, Betty, always ironed a white shirt each day for me to go to work. (I was an engineer in an office.) She was the greatest of wives. We were married for just over 50 years. Now I think that I will use it to iron some of my good trousers and a sheet and pillowcase or two just for old times sake. I live in Oxnard, California and would like to locate a manual for the Conlon Ironer since I cannot find ours even if it is still around someplace. If you know anyone who has one or an idea where I can get one, please let me know. I loved your web site. The music of the '40's and '50's were the best ever and has never been equaled. Long live 'Your Hit Parade'..."

Bob's Conlon IronerClick to Enlarge

We got a note from a reader who actually found a Brand New Conlon Ironer -- it had been given to a relative as a present and was never

used!

New Old Stock Conlon Ironer Click to Enlarge

The ABC Ironer

The Altorfer Brothers Company (ABC) of Peoria, Illinois made a large number of laundry products -- including washers, dryers and ironers. They seem to have made products of reasonable quality, but they never attained anything larger than a small market share in the Midwest. Their ironer has a lot in common with the Conlon. The Ironrite is the only machine in which the roll moves and the iron is fixed.

The ABC IronerLEFT:List of ABC Patents

RIGHT: Henry Altorfer's Design Patent (D 110,992) for the ABC Ironer ExteriorClick to enlarge

The ABC Ironer and the Atomic Bomb

We'd like to report that J. Robert Oppenheimer made the detonator for

the Hiroshima bomb out of parts from an ABC ironer. Exciting as that might be, it would be false. BUT, the ABC Ironer did play a critical part in the Manhattan Project. Specifically, we found the following photo of the laundry room at the Los Alamos facility. Here you see the wives of the scientists pressing forward keeping the shirts, tablecloths and sheets well-ironed. The do not, however, have the benefits of an ergonomic "Health Chair"as afforded owners of the Ironrite. Some sacrifices were necessary during wartime.

The ABC Ironer at War!

If you would like to see more photos of day-to-day life of real people who worked on the Manhattan Project, check out the website of the Manhattan Project Heritage Preservation Association.

The Thor Gladiron Ironer

The Thor line of washers and ironers was an incidental offshoot of a company founded near the turn of the [20th] Century by John D. Hurley, and two Cleveland [OH] politicians. To inspire confidence, Hurley induced "Diamond Jim" Brady,the nation's best known salesman of railroad products to allow his name to be used as President of the fledging company. The reason that Brady was brought on board was that the first Thor product was a pneumatic hammer to pound rivets and drill holes for bolts used to fasten the fire box of a locomotive to its boiler. Railroads soon became the major customers of Thor pneumatic products.

Thor Motorcycle

Click to Enlarge

In time, Thor acquired the Aurora Automatic Machinery Company, a manufacturer of parts for bicycles and motorcycles, including the Sears and Indian motorcycles. Eventuallly, Thor sold its own brand of motorcycle from the early 1900's until 1918. Notably, Thor introduced the first sidecar. For a brief time, the company also manufactured a Thor automobile.

None of this, however, has anything to do with washers and ironers.

In a parallel universe, Hurley's two younger brothers, Neil and Edward formed an independent company that manufactured washing machines. Through the intercesssion of their older brother, they received permission to use the Thor logo and name on its new venture.

However, there was never any corporate or financial relationship between the washing machine company and the power tool company.

Shortly after introducing the electric washing machine, the Hurley brothers introduced the Thor rotary iron, usually known as the "Gladiron" Note that this is a clever play on Mrs. Potts' "Sadiron", on our Ironing History Page that required stove top heating by the user.

Thor Gladiron Ironer Washer-Ironer Combination Click to Enlarge

Several variations of the "Gladiron" were introduced. One model would serve as an actual attachment to the washing machine. Simply take off the wringer and attach the gladiron and the lady of the house or her domestic servant could do their ironing above the machine. The other model was a stand-alone version.

Both the washing machine and gladiron were big hits in households throughout the country and the world. The Arcade Toy Company made tiny replicas of both machines for little girl doll houses.

Thor Gladiron Ironer Advertisements from the 1920sClick to Enlarge

Eventually, the Hurley Company made a lightweight collapsable machine as shown in these photos sent to us by our friend Gayle in Frankfort, Kentucky. This machine was targeted at folks suffering from the postwar housing crunch where new couples were often squeezed into very small spaces. On this machine, the shoe moves onto the roller, so it is more like the Conlon than the Iron-Rite. This is what the Gladiron looked like when it came out of the box!

Kudos to Gayle in Frankfort

Thor Gladiron IronerNew Old Stock-- $134 then is equivalent to about $1,000 today

Click to Enlarge

Contemporary ads seem to mirror the general cultural theme of the 1940s that a woman could win increased affection from her spouse by performing household chores well.

Mid 1940s Ads for Thor Gladiron IronerLet Your Children Do the Ironing

Click to Enlarge

The Gladiron appears to have been the creation of Arthur H. Gerhardt, Arthur P. Schulz, and Hugh M. Rumbaugh, dating back to 1940. Mr. Gerhardt seems to have done the principal design work, particularly the exterior while Messrs. Schulz and Rumbaugh were involved with the mechanicals. The principal patents for the Gladiron are:

Re-22,616 Re-22,720 2,280,719 D-123,636 D-139,203 D-143,298 D-143,299

If you are restoring a Gladiron, your best bet is Reissue Patent RE22720 -- it has 12 very detailed drawings of the machine's inner workings. You may obtain this by following the proceedures outlined on our Patent Drawings page. Here are some samples:

Thor Gladiron IronerDesign Patent D-143299 Gladiron Exterior

Thor Gladiron Power transmission to the arm Patent RE2270Thor Gladiron Inner Gear mechanisms Patent RE2270

Click to EnlargeClick here if you want to learn how to get Free Patent Drawings

Thanks to Rita, one of our readers, we have a manual for the Gladiron. It is a ".pdf" that is about 6.6 MB; please contact us if you want a free copy of the Gladiron Manual.

Patent RE22,720 has 24 pages -- and that can be a hassle to download. contact us if you want a 3.8MB zip file containing images of all 24 pages. There are 12 pages of drawings and 12 pages of explanatory text.

As usual, we are always interested in stories, pictures and data which would help us understand this marque of Ironer

The Simplex Ironer

The Simplex Ironer has been around for a LONG time. Here is an ad from 1910:

Targeted at the Man of the House, telling him what She wantsClick to Enlarge

Beginning in 1905, he Simplex Ironer was made by the Peter Brothers Manufacturing Company. The organization specialized in producing laundry ironers. The Company employed 200 people and produced 2,500 ironers per month. In 1920 Peter Brothers Manufacturing changed their name to American Ironing Machine Company.

Simplex Ads targeted at "more lesiure time"

Simplex Ads targeted at "Family Values"

The "farm" ad was from Country GentlemanOnly a Plantation or 1,000 acre horse farm actually had electricity at the time of the

adClick to Enlarge

From 1905 to 1929, the company engaged in massive advertising, buying full-page ads in upscale publications, such as The Literary

Digest,The Saturday Evening Post and The Country Gentleman.

Simplex Ads targeted at "Pride of Posession"

Click to Enlarge

As the 1920s progressed, "Status" or "Pride of Possession" also entered the advertisng copy.

Thanks to our friend and reader Don H. of Palm Desert, California, we have a complete Simpex operator's manual for this very early model. Write Us and we'll be glad to send you a ".pdf" of the manual for FREE.

Simplex Promotional CalendarThis was a Big Purchase worthy of lots of marketing schtick

Click to Enlarge

Here are photos of a "Modern" Simplex. They were sent by our friend Sharon from West Virginia!

"Modern" Simplex Ironer Click to Enlarge

Thanks to our friend Barry A., we now have quite a bit of documentation for the late-model Simplex. It is about 4 MB, (Contact me if you want any of this material. This is what it looks like:

The Modern Simplex Manual, Parts List and Other EphemeraClick to Enlarge

If you take a close look at the "Parts List" cover above, you'll note that Simplex had been taken over by McGraw-Edison, the manufacturers of the Speed Queen line of appliances. We siscuss this latter brand next.

The Speed Queen Ironer

These photos were sent to us by our friend Anna. She has a "Speed Queen" ironer that seems to have come to her new and unused! She writes:

"...HELLO HERE OF SOME PICTURES OF MY SPEED QUEEN MANGLER THAT WORKS ABSOLUTELY PERFECT AND HAS NEVER BEEN USED!!!...IT HAS AN ORIGINAL GENERAL MOTORS PACKARD MOTOR THAT RUNS SILENT AND LIKE NEW AS WELL .....THIS MANGLE IS ALL ORIGINAL!!!.....I PURCHASED THIS ITEM FOR $1.00 AT THE LOCAL GOODWILL..."

Speed Queen IronerClick to Enlarge

If you are seeking to restore a Speed Queen ironer )or just learn how to operate one), you would probably benefit from some of the material on the modern Simplex (above), since they were made by the same company.

The GE Ironer

General Electric made its entry into the home ironer business with a flat plate device. From a manufacturing point of view, this is a lot simpler and cheaper because it does not have the gears, pulleys and wires that run the roll mechanism. All you do is place the object on the hot plate and close the lid on top of it. This technique is limited to pieces that are small.

General Electric Flatplate Ironer

Click to Enlarge

In the 1930s, General Electric gave up the flat-plate ironer and made a roller version that competed with the Ironrite.

General Electric IronerClick to Enlarge

Here is an ad for the General Electric Ironer that was displayed on NYC Subway trains in the 1930s and 1940s.

Subway Advertising Card for the GE IronerThis was on our Nostalgia Subway Ride, Christmas 2008

Click to Enlarge

The Universal Ironer

These photos were sent to us by our friend Lorena. She has a "Universal" ironer that seems to have survived fairly well. "Universal" was the name used for products made by Landers, Frary and Clark of Connecticut, and we have a detailed history of that company on our Coffee Page, largely because LF&C was catapulted to fame by manufacturing the first percolator.

Universal Ironer from Landers Frary and Clark

Click to Enlarge

The Kenmore Ironer

For those of you who are too young to remember when Sears was actually more than a dump, Kenmore was Sears' "House Brand". Sears contratcetd for the production of appliances by other "name" manufacturers. generally, the Kenmore brand was slightly different and slightly "cheaper." Usually, the companies so contracted were regional firms that were glad to get national business. I "think" that the Kenmore Ironer was made by Simplex, but I could be mistaken there.

Kenmore Ironer (c. 1930)Click to Enlarge

Sears continued to sell Kenmore Ironers well into the 1950s. We were

privileged to get this note from Pam, one of our readers:

"... I have a 1952 Kenmore Ironer with the manuals. My Grandfather bought it for my Grandmother in the 1950s. She used it to iron his suits because he was a door to door insurance salesman..."

Here are Pam's photos:

Kenmore Ironer (c. 1952)Click to Enlarge

Pam also has promised to scan the manual and the parts list. Check back with the site to see when I have received them.

Kenmore Ironer Manual and Parts ListClick to Enlarge

10.“Difference between “Pressing” and “Ironing””:

Pressing is when put the iron down and press hard to create or reinforce the folds of hems, pleats etc (i.e. to create creases) and is an essential part of the making clothes.

Ironing involves sliding an iron back and forth to remove wrinkles and is normally only done to finished garments.

Topic - 04

PRESSING

INSPECTION

PRESSING

Garment Pressing Operation is to remove wrinkles from a garment and to give it shape . Pressing is done after assembly to improve the appearance of a garment.

In other cases, especially with knits, garments are simply folded instead of pressed. Although pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated processes exist that apply force and steam to garments placed over a body form.

Some Technique About Garments Pressing:

1. Press garments flat, never folded with the sleeves under it as this leaves sleeve impression marks at the garment.

2. Do not iron (press) a placket, only steam this 

3. Do not place iron direct onto the collar, only use lightly steam.

4. Garment must no be over-pressed and glazing-shining effects must not be evident.

General Pressing equipments:

1. Steam/spray iron 2.Hand s teamer 3 .Tai lo r ’ s ham

4. Pre ss ing mi t t 5.Press c lo th 6. Seam roll e.t.c

Purpose of Pressing:

To smooth away unwanted creases and crush marks

To make creases where the design of the garment requires them

To mould the garment to the contour of the body

To prepare garment for further sewing

To refinish the fabric after manufacturing the garment

Categories of Pressing:

Garments which require no pressing

Garments requiring minimal pressing or finishing

Garments using the use of an iron in under pressing and final pressing

Garments requiring extensive under pressing and final pressing

Garments requiring plating or permanent press· finishing

Pressing Inspection:Which things should be inspected ?

1. Pressing tables should be marked with length and breadth of all sizes of garments according to Buyers specifications. Pressing Inspection is done to evaluate.

2. Correctness of shape of Neck/Shoulder/Sleeve/ Side Seam/ bottom hem in uppers; and shape of-waist/ Hip/ Side Seam/ inseam/ leg opening in bottoms.

3. No shiny marks /crease marks on seams.

 4. No Excessive moisture by steam.

 5. No Color fading.

6. No Dust marks/Stain marks/oil marks.

7. Pressing as required.

PRESSING OR FINISHING :

The object of pressing or finishing is to make the apparel looks beautiful. Some points should be included in terms of finishing :

1.Have any spot or burn spot in the fabric ?

2.Water spot.

3.Shading difference.

4.Braking of button or chain.

5.Have any fold or fold in the exact position ?

6.Have any stretch in fabric during pressing ?

7.Exact position of pocket.

8.The shape of the garments.

9.During pressing temperature, pressure and pressing cycle should be inspected

Final - Pressing 

Some pressing, termed 'under pressing', may be done in the course of assembling a garment, for example, pressing seams open or ironing a collar. Most pressing is done after assembly to improve the appearance of a garment. In other cases, especially with knits, garments are simply folded instead of pressed. Although pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated process exists that apply force and steam to garments placed over a body form.

Final - Finishing 

'Finishing' is the addition of special detailing such as pleats, embroidery and screen printing to a garment. This includes hand stitching (unseen handwork done inside collars and lapels to give them shape) and its automated substitutes. This may also include adding buttons, hooks, eyes, or trims, as well as clipping loose threads. All finishing of moderate- and lower-priced garments is done by machine.

Increasingly, retailers request that manufacturers supply them with 'hanger ready' garments; in other words, the garments must be pre-ticketed with bar-coded price tags attached and hung on the hangers the retailers will use. Previously, retailers were responsible for ticketing, but retailers have shifted this burden to manufacturers. A contractor or a distribution warehouse routinely handles the ticketing. 

All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The final inspection is carved out by buyer representative or independent auditors free from any pressure from vendor or factory representative. The final inspection is to visually inspect articles at random from fully or 80-90% packed purchase order to verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or reference tagged

sample received from buyer. Result is documented and recorded as reference but still vendor/manufacturer is always responsible for claims if any arising due to any defective goods found packed and inspected at buyers warehouse..

Pressing: Why Is It So Important?

Most sewers learn early on that there's a difference between ironing and pressing and that when sewing, one should press. There's a great deal that sewers can find to read about pressing techniques, but the concept is not difficult to understand. Ironing a laundered linen tablecloth to take out the wrinkles and make it look smooth is a different process than pressing a garment or project as it's being constructed.

To press, instead of bearing down on the iron and rubbing its hot surface back and forth across the cloth with pressure (ironing), pick up the iron and then set it down on a different part of the cloth, applying heat to the cloth with only a small amount of pressure. It's not hard to do, but why is this difference so important?

Whereas ironing does get the wrinkles out of an expanse of cloth, the movement of the iron while bearing down can distort the grainline of the fabric. This is not desirable, since the fabric's grainline is partially responsible for how your garment or project hangs

In contrast to ironing, pressing smoothes or manipulates a specific area of the fabric in a controlled way. Envision pressing open the side seam of a skirt. Below the hip, the seam allowance can be pressed open on a flat surface; but it's difficult to press the curve of the hip on a flat ironing board. However, if a tailor's ham is placed underneath the hip curve of the skirt, the rest of the skirt falls out of the way, which enables you to efficiently press open the hip seam allowances, as well as to build roundness into the hip of the skirt. The end result is a more flattering garment, because shape and three-dimensionality are being created.

Pressing seams after they've been sewn not only controls the seam allowances, but it also causes the thread to meld into the fabric. This melding process is important, because without it, the thread sits on the surface of the fabric. If you've ever wondered why the garments of certain sewers always look so "finished," it's a safe bet that every one of their seams has been carefully pressed. And it's especially important to press a seam before sewing another seam that will cross it.

There are many rules of thumb as well as individual preferences when it comes to pressing with a dry iron or a steam iron; using a press cloth or a Teflon shoe (that attaches to the iron) to protect the cloth; or using a spray bottle of water or a dampened press cloth. Most people who sew find what works for them through experimentation and experience. Mishaps are inevitable, but learning to test press using a scrap of fabric after your garment has been cut out, but before you begin construction, will save you from making serious - or ruinous - mistakes.

Once you grow accustomed to pressing each and every seam, you'll find that your garments and projects acquire a

shape more quickly. And pressing creates a kind of "memory" in the fabric. Press a curve into a bias strip, and the

strip will retain its shape; press a bodice princess seam over a tailor's ham, and the shaping for the bust will remain.

Sometimes it seems that you can perform magic by just taking the time to press.

 

The Importance of Pressing and How to Press

Good pressing is important to good dressmaking and quilting.  A professional finish can be achieved only by constant and correct pressing in the right way. Press as you sew! No matter how great a garment was made it can still look homemade if it has not been well pressed.

You will want to press with the tip of the iron to get into small places. Try not to stretch or pull your fabric when ironing.  Sometimes if you pull or stretch and use steam you can permanently stretch the fabric out of place. Press on the wrong (or ugly) side of the fabric when ever possible, especially when pressing seams, darts, and pleats. NEVER press over pins.  Most dress makers pins have a plastic head.  If you press over the pins, they can melt and get onto both your iron and your project. Pins can also scratch your iron, which can leave a mark on your iron and snag your fabric.

Do not over press fine fabrics. Most of them have a soft looking appearance and flow on the body, so you do not want them to look hard or over pressed.

When pressing curved areas use a pressing cushion or tailor's ham. PRESS as you sew! I am constantly advising my students of this. The best looking garments in the end have been pressed, pressed, and pressed after each sewing step!

Pressing is not just pushing a hot iron along fabric to smooth it, it must be held long enough to set the fabric in its new position. Pressing is a combination of pressure that you put on the iron by the strength of your arm when it needs it, heat temperature suitable for the fiber, not the fabric, and moisture provided by a steam iron for thin and lightweight fabrics.  Always use a cloth when pressing on the pretty side of the fabric. When pressing curves, and sleeves use a pressing cushion. 

ALWAYS do a "test" pressing job to a scrap piece of fabric that you will be making your garment out of. During the sewing of the garment most pressing will be done on the wrong side or ugly side of the garment. In addition to pressing as the garment is made, a final pressing job should be done once the garment is complete, and then hung up and not touched for at least a day.

MEANS OF PRESSING

One of the real secrets to good costume construction is proper pressing. Pressing must be done as the construction progresses, it cannot be left to the last, as no amount of final pressing will make up for step by step pressing. Careful, thorough pressing during each construction process will result in professional looking garments that require only a minor touch up when completed.

GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR PRESSING DURING THE CONSTRUCTION PROCESS.

1. Pressing is not Ironing. Pressing is the process of lifting the iron and setting it down again in the proper position. Pressing can accomplish things a needle and thread can't.

2. Always test a scrap of fabric or an inconspicuous garment area to determine the best technique for pressing the fabric. Test a scrap large enough to allow for comparison between the pressed and unpressed fabric. 

3. Keep an assortment of pressing tools and aids available at all times. Know how to use them. These tools wear created to help achieve professional results, but they don't do much good left on the ironing tabled unused. 

4. Check the fabric's reaction to steam and moisture. Both should be used properly or water or scorch marks will be present on the fabric. 

5. Press with the grain of the fabric whenever possible and be careful to not stretch edges or curves by pulling the fabric.

6.  Press all seams open first, then press in the stated direction for proper garment construction.

7. Press all seams and construction details on the wrong side first, then press the right side of the garment. Test the fabric to see that the right side can be pressed. 

8. Use the point of the iron to open seams before reaching them with the bulk of the iron. 

9. Always press seams and darts BEFORE they are attached to other garment seams, this helps reduce bulk. 

10. Never press any sharp creases (except pleats) in the garment before the final fitting is done. 

11. Above all, know your fabric and do not OVERPRESS. 

PRESSING TECHNIQUES:  

1. Finger pressing is using the heat of the body to press or crease small areas of fabric. Finger pressing often works wonders on stubborn seams before you press with the iron. 

2. Favoring is when you roll one garment edge over another just slightly to conceal the seam. Favoring is used extensively in tailoring and can make any collar, waistband, etc. look much more professional. 

3. Final Pressing is the last pressing procedure on a garment and should be a mere touch-up. The roll of collars and lapels need to be 'set' with a small amount of steam and heat. Most final pressing is done with the iron held just above the surface of the fabric. 

4. Steaming is done for maintenance or during the construction process when the weight of the iron might mark the garment. Hold the iron just above the fabric, not more than 1", and depress the steam button.

SEWN

Pressing Tips :

Read these 9 Pressing Tips tips to make your life smarter, better, faster and wiser. Each tip is approved by our Editors and created by expert writers so great we call them Gurus. LifeTips is the place to go when you need to know about Sewing tips and hundreds of other topics. Become a Guru or Become an Advertiser.

SEAM IMPRINTS : To avoid seam imprints on the right side of the fabric, place a strip of brown paper bag between the seam allowance and the garment before pressing.

RUB OUT SCORCH MARKS : If you scorch wool fabric by using an iron that is too hot, rub a nickel on the scorch mark. The scorch mark will disappear. Be careful to use a clean nickel on light colored fabrics.

PRESS AS YOU GO : When sewing, never sew over an unpressed seam. Always press the seams as you go. This will make sewing easier and will improve the quality and hang of your finished garment.

IRONING vs. PRESSING : Ironing is done by using a back and forth motion. Pressing is done by using an up and down motion. Ironing can stretch the fabric out of shape and cause wrinkling and puckering on finished garments. Always press.

COOL IT : To keep freshly pressed fabrics and garments from getting wrinkled, allow them to rest and cool down on the ironing board for a couple of minutes before moving them. If you are in a hurry or just impatient, use a fan directed at the ironing board to cool down the fabric and set the press.

SETTING & REMOVING CREASES : A solution of one part water and one part distilled white vinegar will remove an old crease and/or set a new one. Dampen a press cloth with this mixture and press with as hot of an iron as the fabric will allow. Press until the press cloth is dry. The vinegar smell will dissipate as the fabric dries.

CLEANING YOUR IRON : Irons get dirty and pick up color from the fabric dye. Clean your iron periodically, especially if sewing and pressing light colored fabric. The best way to clean the soleplate of your iron is with a commercial hot iron cleaner, sold at fabric and sewing supply stores. This product is very easy to use.

SEAM ROLL : A seam roll can be used to press areas that are hard to lay on a flat surface, like a sleeve. They also provide a curved surface for pressing seams without leaving imprints from the seam allowance. If you do not have a seam roll, roll up a newspaper or magazine and cover with a terry towel or insert in a wool sock.

CLAPPER : Use a clapper to flatten seams after pressing. A clapper can reduce bulk and make fabric lay flat. Steam press the seam or area. Press the clapper over the area to seal in the heat and moisture. After about a minute, the fabric or seam will lay perfectly flat.

Some Helpful Pressing Hints

-PRESS AS YOU SEW! (I can’t stress this enough) If you follow this rule, your project or garment will turn out looking more professional and will only need brief freshen up ironing when it is done!

-ALWAYS test your ironing on a scrap piece of fabric to make sure your fabric is not changed in any way by the ironing.  If it is, adjust the heat setting.

-If your garment requires darts, or pleats, or princess seams, sew them all and then press them all to save some time. Vertical darts are normally pressed toward the center. Larger darts and princess seam darts can be slit down the center and pressed open.

-Always press your hems BEFORE you sew them.

-Press on the wrong or ugly side when ever possible.

-Use the tip of the iron for small snug places that are hard to reach.

-Use a pressing cushion or tailor’s ham when possible to help flatten seam and curved edges better.

Pressing Seams 

When a pattern direction says "press the seams open" this is what they mean.. Press on the WRONG side of the fabric, and press the seams open as shown in the photo. MOST seams on simple garments require this type of pressing.

 

When quilting, MOST seams are pressed toward the darker fabric as shown in the photo.   

 

 Always use a pressing cloth to protect your fabric when pressing on the right or pretty side of your fabric, garment, or quilt.  Use a pressing cushion when pressing sleeves or rounded edges, and always press on a "test" scrap piece of fabric first.

Pressing Equipment and Methods: Iron

Steam Presses

Steam Air Finisher

Steam Tunnel

A Brief History of the Iron

 A hand iron is a piece of equipment that is used for pressing garments.  Today irons are heated by electricity. In the past irons have been heated by gas flame, stove plate heat, or by setting the iron on hot coals.  In 1882 a man by the name of Henry W. Seely patented the electric iron which at the time was called the electric flatiron. It was not a very save way to iron.

Steam irons which are what most irons are today came about in the 1950's. Back then they were made of metal, today as we know most are made of plastic on the outside and if they fall off your ironing board will most likely break.

Irons made of iron with a handle can be found in many antique stores today.  They are usually black and heavy.  They were put on hot coals, then the garment was sprinkled with water, and then it was pressed.

Cleaning Your Iron...How to Clean Your Iron

Cleaning your iron - Pour an equal amount of vinegar and distilled water in your iron's reservoir.  Turn the iron on and make it stream and spray until it is empty.  This helps clear out the steam vents in your iron. If the vents are still clogged try using straight vinegar.  Flush with water when done.

To clean the sole of your iron, wipe it down with a good cleaner like top job.

If it is an oily base dirt on the sole try using a soft rag with ammonia, and then rinse well.

Once the sole of your iron is clean you could iron pieces of wax paper to coat the bottom which helps make the iron go over fabric better. (this step is optional and a personal preference.)

Caring for your iron - ONLY use distilled water in your iron.  I was taught this 25 years ago in home-economics in school and it is still true today.  Regular water from your sink has minerals that can clog and damage your iron.

Clean your iron often.  Wipe it down with a soft rag and keep it clean, especially if you use starch or things like "wonder under", or interfacing.

Always unplug your iron when not in use.

Do NOT immerse your iron in water.

If the cord is damaged, throw away your iron and get a new one.

Keep iron away from children.

More About IroningFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For other uses, see Ironing (disambiguation).

Ironing a shirt

Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric.[1] The heating is commonly

done to a temperature of 180–220 °Celsius, depending on the fabric.[2] Ironing works by loosening the

bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material. While the molecules are

hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool.

Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds.

Many modern fabrics (developed in or after the mid-twentieth century) are advertised as needing little or

no ironing. Permanent press clothing was developed to reduce the ironing necessary by combining

wrinkle-resistant polyester withcotton.

The first known use of heated metal to "iron" clothes is known to have occurred in China.[3] The electric

iron was invented in 1882, by Henry W. Seeley. Seeley patented his "electric flatiron" on June 6, 1882

(U.S. Patent no. 259,054).[4]

Contents

[hide]

1 Equipment

o 1.1 Iron

o 1.2 Ironing board

o 1.3 Tailor's ham

o 1.4 Commercial equipment

2 Recommended ironing temperatures

3 Chemistry

4 See also

5 References

6 External links

Equipment

[ edit

Main article: Clothes iron

The iron is the small appliance used to remove wrinkles from fabric. It is also known as a clothes iron, flat

iron, or smoothing iron. The piece at the bottom is called a sole plate. Ironing uses heat energy, chemical

energy, electrical energy, and mechanical energy.

Ironing board

Ironing board

Most ironing is done on an ironing board, a small, portable, foldable table with a heat resistant surface. Some

commercial-grade ironing boards incorporate a heating element and a pedal-operated vacuum to pull air through the

board and dry the garment.

On 16 February 1858 W. Vandenburg and J. Harvey patented an ironing table that facilitated pressing sleeves and

pant legs.[5] A truly portable folding ironing board was first patented in Canada in 1875 by John B. Porter. The

invention also included a removable press board used for sleeves.[6] In 1892Sarah Boone obtained a patent in the

United States for improvements to the ironing board, allowing for better quality ironing for shirt sleeves. [7]

[ edit ] Tailor's ham

A tailor's ham or dressmakers ham is a tightly stuffed pillow in the shape of a ham used as a mold when

pressing curves such as sleeves or collars.[8]

[ edit ] Commercial equipment

Commercial dry cleaning and full-service laundry providers usually use a large appliance called a steam

press to do most of the work of ironing clothes. Alternatively, a rotary iron may be used.

A tailor's stove

Historically, larger tailors' shops included a tailor's stove, a stove used by tailors to quickly and efficiently

heat multiple irons. In many developing countries a cluster of solid irons, heated alternatively from a

single heating source, are used for pressing cloths at small commercial outlets.

[edit]Recommended ironing temperatures

Woman ironing a shirt (Köln, Germany1953).

A man ironing clothes using a charcoal iron box.

Textile Temperature[citation needed] Temperature[2] Dot mark

Toile 240 °C

Triacetate ("Estron", "Silene", "Tricell") 200 °C 220–250 °C

Cotton 204 °C / 400 °F 180–220 °C * * * [9]

Linen (flax) 215–240 °C * * * [9]

Viscose/Rayon 190 °C 150–180 °C * * [9]

Wool 148 °C / 300 °F 160–170 °C * * [10]

Polyester 148 °C / 300 °F * [9]

Silk 148 °C / 300 °F 140–165 °C * [10]

SympaTex * [9]

Acetate ("Arnel", "Celco", "Dicel") 143 °C 180 °C * [10]

Acrylic 135 °C 180 °C

Lycra/spandex 135 °C

Nylon-6 150 °C

Nylon-66 180–220 °C

Dot mark

Temperature

* < 110 °C

* * < 150 °C

* * * < 200 °C

Another source suggests slightly higher temperatures, for example, 180-220 °C for cotton[2]

[edit]Chemistry

When the fabric is heated, the molecules are more easily reoriented. In the case of cotton fibres, which

are derivatives of cellulose, the hydroxyl groupsthat crosslink the cellulose polymer chains are reformed

at high temperatures, and become somewhat "locked in place" upon cooling the item. Inpermanent

press pressed clothes, chemical agents such as dimethylol ethylene urea are added as crosslinking

agents.

[edit]See also

Hair iron

Laundry symbol

Washing machine

[edit]References

1. ̂  "Ironing". The Free Dictionary By Farlex. Retrieved 2012-24-05.

2. ^ a b c Fritz Schultze-Gebhardt,Karl-Heinz Herlinger "Fibers, 1. Survey" in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of

Industrial Chemistry, Wily-VCH, Weinheim, 2000.doi:10.1002/14356007.a10_451

3. ̂  Oldandinteresting.com

4. ̂  Enchantedlearning.com

5. ̂  U.S. Patent 19,390

6. ̂  Mario Theriault, Great Maritime Inventions 1833–1950, Goose Lane, 2001, p. 31

7. ̂  Mary Bellis (2011). "Sarah Boone". Inventors. About.com. Retrieved 13 November 2011.

8. ̂  "Tailor’s ham and Seam Roll Free Pattern". Sewing Princess. Retrieved 2012-24-05.

9. ^ a b c d e "Bra att veta vad man har på sig.. Ulla Popken". 100204 ullapopken.de

10. ^ a b c "Lanidor, General care". 100204 eshop.lanidor.com

Wikimedia Commons has

media related to: Ironing

[edit]External links

History of Ironing  from oldandinteresting.com

Theory and Technology of Ironing

Charcoal and other antique irons  from the White River Valley Museum

Antique Irons  from the Virtual Museum of Textile Arts

Pressing Tools

As soon as you begin to sew whether you make crafts, clothing, or quilting, you will need an iron and an ironing board.

Below is a list of pressing tools and their functions. If you are interested in sewing clothing, garments, or fashion & costume design you should take a look at them and make the pressing cushion. (free directions on making a pressing cushion is provided)

Iron - A regular ordinary iron with a lot of choices for temperature settings is good for general pressing. A steam iron is good for light weight fabrics.

Ironing Board -   Your ironing board should be well padded with a top cover that can be removed for washing or replacing.

Pressing Cushion -   This is a must for any one sewing clothing.  It is useful for pressing armhole seams and curved joints. 

Pressing Clothes -   It is best to have 2 pressing clothes.  One for damp pressing which can be about 20". X 34" and a smaller one for dry pressing.  You would use these so that the iron will not be directly on your fabric and possibly leave a mark.

Sleeve Board - This is basically a small ironing board that is padded and covered.  It is used for small areas that need to be pressed like darts, shoulder seams, etc...

Wooden Clapper - This is a thick smooth piece of wood about 12" long X 1"-2" thick.  It is used to "beat" the steam into wool fabrics.

Dress Maker's Ham - This is used for pressing curved areas.  It is hard and thick and produces nice results for pressing. Every dress maker should have one.

 

MORE PRESSING TOOLS

Tailor’s Ham   (Repeted) looks like a ham covered with fabric, usually unbleached muslin or heavy cotton. Used to press curved seams (top of sleeve, armhole). 

Seam RollSeam Roll a long padded culinder with a cover that is usually cotton on one side and wool on the other. Helps prevent ridges when pressing a seam open. 

Sleeve Board (Repeted)Sleeve Board shaped like a tiny ironing board. It is used to press sleeves without a crease. 

Point Presser / Pounding Block A pointed piece of wood, which is attached to a clapper. This helps to press points (point of a collar), and also to press open enclosed seams before turning them to the right side, such as a facing seam. 

Puff IronPuff Iron that looks like it has a silver egg on a pole. This ‘egg’ heats up and makes it very easy to iron puffed sleeves! 

Needle BoardNeedle Board used when you press corduroy, velvet, or any pile fabric that might crush or show seam ridges.

How to Make a Pressing Cushion

Pressing Cushion -   This is a must for any one sewing clothing, garments, or costumes.  It is useful for pressing armhole seams and curved joints. The pressing

cushion almost looks like a loaf of bread.  It is round so that you can easily press a curved area on a garment, like a sleeve.

Cut two oval pieces of fabric approximately 6" wide X 10 - 12" long, like shown in the photo.  Calico fabric works best.

Pin the 2 oval pieces of fabric pretty sides together.  Sew a 1/2 inch seam allowance around the oval pieces of fabric leaving an opening on one side for turning.  Clip curves, and turn your cushion pretty sides out.

Stuff your Pressing Cushion with sawdust or pieces of fabric. DO NOT use stuffing.  You want the pressing cushion to be very firm so that when you put your sleeve in it, it can press the curves well. Hand sew your opening closed.

Your pressing cushion is done!!! It will come to good use and you will see the difference in pressing your curved seams.

The pressing cushion can be used to shape tailored garments, pleats, gathers, and contoured areas. It works well on sleeves. It is a must for any seamstress.

TYPES OF PRESSING CLOTHS AND TECHNIQUES

Pressing Cloth is a layer of protective fabric between your garment and the iron. There are several different types, depending on the fabric you are working with: 

1.Wool-back press cloth (wool on one side, cotton on the other) 

2.Sheer Press Cloth usually of cotton batiste, voile, or lawn. Can see through it to know where to place the iron. 

3.Moisture Press Cloth best are 100% cotton diapers or 100% linen towels. They hold moisture and can be used with a dry iron. 

4.Bristled Press Cloth (see Needle board) 

5.You should never see shine marks, iron marks, or unwanted creases on a well-pressed garment.

Pressing and Ironing...is there a difference?

Is pressing the same as ironing?  Not really. Ironing is the action of moving back and forth.  This is what you would normally see in movies and television shows back in the 1950’s, a mother in a dress standing behind the ironing board ironing with a back and forth type of motion. Ironing is also what most of us do at home when we have wrinkles in our clothes after we buy them or after we wash them.

 Pressing is a lifting and setting motion.  It is used to flatten an area that has been stitch, like seams, darts, pleats, and hems.  This is what you would see if you were watching TV shows like “Project RUNWAY”. Most dress makers and fashion designers press as they sew. Pressing, is a light touch of the iron.  Lay the iron on the seam, press gently, and then lift up the iron.  Sometimes a sliding motion can be used, but a combination of the heat setting, steam, and a little bit of pressure will get the job done

Pressing or Ironing?....What do you think….?

This is the ‘Pressing’ issue – pressing and ironing, that is! I am including some information on pressing and ironing, to help you make your garments look even better!!! I know that it is easy to ‘skip’ pressing a seam here and there, if I

am short of time, and I always regret it! I have to remind myself that the time I put in during construction pays off when my garment is finished. Good pressing techniques can make a poorly sewn garment look its’ best, but on the flip side, poor pressing techniques can make a finely constructed garment look mediocre.

PRESSING is done with an up and down motion, and done during construction. IRONING is done with a gliding motion and is done after the garment is finished. In other words, press while you sew, and iron while you wear!

The three elements of pressing are heat, pressure, and moisture.Using the correct balance of each will lead to successful pressing. Knowing your fabric and what it requires will assist greatly in achieving the right balance and getting successful pressing results.

Heat Settings on an Iron for Different Fabrics

Most irons today have written right on them the type of fabric and what the heat setting should be. ALWAYS TEST a scrap piece of fabric BEFORE you press your garment or project pieces. You can set your iron to a lower temp if

you are feel the heat is too hot for your fabric. Here are some suggestions on heat settings for different fabrics.

Cotton - This is probably the easiest fabric to press and usually has no problems.  You can use a dry iron or steam.  Cotton fabrics usually use a hot/high temperature.  Be careful with cotton blends, which are cotton fabric blended with another type of fabric. Most times you will have to use a lower temp for blends.

Fabrics with a Nap - You must be careful pressing fabrics with a nap.  Press on the wrong side (or ugly side) when ever possible.  If you must press on the right side (or pretty side) use a piece of the same fabric with the nap. Have the nap sides together while pressing. This will help keep the "nap" on your project. When I work with napped fabric I make my self a 10"x10" pressing cloth from the scraps of my napped fabric.

Silks -   Silk fabric should always be pressed with a dry iron, do not use steam.

Wool -   Use plenty of steam when sewing with wool. Wool is easily shaped when using steam.  You can also use a damp cloth to press over the wool.

Linen -   Most linen fabric today has a nice shine to it.  You will want to press on the wrong side so that the "shine" does not go away.

Blended Fabric - (fabrics with 2 or more different kinds of fibers) Always use the iron setting for the fiber which has the lowest temperature

Some important notes about

FABRIC TYPES AND   BEST HEAT SETTINGS

Cotton and linen fabric need more heat than wool, silk, or synthetic. 

Thick fabric can stand more heat than thin fabric, even if the content is the same. 

Pressing without a pressing cloth requires less heat than pressing with a pressing cloth. 

For heavy fabrics or thicker seams, more pressure will be necessary than for fine fabrics. 

You can apply pressure in several ways with an iron, clapper, fingers, etc. 

Moisture can be applied with a press cloth, a steam iron, or a sponge. 

Steaming is the easiest, but it is also the most unreliable, since it can leave water spots, depending on the fabric you are working with.

If you are working with fabric that will water spot, cover with a dry pressing cloth, then a damp pressing cloth.

STEAM PRESSING

Title Technology of steam press curing.

Authors - Hsu, W. E.Editor - Hse, C. Y.Conference paper; Book chapter

Adhesive technology and bonded tropical wood products. 1998 pp. 358-366

Conference TitleAdhesive technology and bonded tropical wood products.

ISBN - 957-02-3200-5Record Number - 19990611627

AbstractSteam pressing is a method of hot pressing, during wood composite manufacture, that includes the

injection and exhaust of live steam during the press cycle. Injection can be achieved simply by connecting

steam lines (usually at high pressure) to special steam platens that contain a series of channels and ports

by which steam is directed into the mat. It is easier to inject steam into the mat than to exhaust steam for

the mat, and therefore, it is preferable to use a vacuum-assisted exhaust to facilitate steam evacuation.

Since 1947, more than a dozen patents have been issued worldwide in relation to steam-pressing

methods. Basically, they can be categorized as sealed, unsealed, and self-sealing systems. Self sealing

is achieved by a peripheral compression frame on the press platen that over compresses and densifies

the mat edges. In general, sealed systems are impractical and have a risk of explosion, but they are

suitable for curing high-temperature-setting resins and have a great stabilization effect on the product.

Unsealed systems have no risk of explosion and are able to cure moderate-temperature-setting resins

rapidly. However, they have little stabilizing effect on the product and do not easily accommodate

changes in board thickness and density. The self sealing system overcomes the drawbacks of the sealed

system and still has the advantages of the sealed systems. However, it also has two minor drawbacks:

different thicknesses of compression frames are needed if a wide range of board thickness is to be

produced, and there is a slight loss of open-press daylight due to the use of a compression frame.

How to Steam Press Clothes-manuallyBy Kay Dean, eHow Contributor

Wrinkles--whether they’re on your face or on your clothes, they are not your friend. Dealing with wrinkles on clothes, however, is much easier than those on your face. Use the Hamilton Beach Professional Iron on a steam setting and you’ll be rid of wrinkles in no time. Things You'll Need :

Hamilton Beach Professional Iron Water Measuring cup

Garment to be pressed Ironing board

Instructions 1 Unplug the iron. Set the steam control on top of the iron to O (Dry Iron). Hold the iron so that the sole plate is parallel to the ground, counter top or ironing board.

2Open the water fill cover. Fill the measuring cup with tap water, and then slowly pour it into the water tank opening until the MAX fill line is reached. Close the water fill cover.

3Plug the iron into an electrical outlet. Turn the temperature control guide on the body of the iron to the desired fabric setting within the steam range. Allow the iron to heat for 2 minutes in order to reach the appropriate temperature. Set the Steam On/Off control to the steam sign. It looks like a small cloud.

4Spread the garment to be ironed onto the ironing board. Before placing the hot iron on the garment, test an inconspicuous spot, like on the inside of the garment. This will let you know whether the iron is the correct temperature for this fabric and help prevent scorching. If the temperature is correct, then proceed to iron the garment. Press and release the Blast button on top of the handle when you need a burst of steam to iron stubborn wrinkles.

5Turn the iron off when you are finished ironing by setting the Steam On/Off control to O (Dry Iron). Turn the temperature control dial to Off. Unplug the iron. Empty the water from the iron.

Read more: How to Steam Press Clothes | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4442901_steam-press-clothes.html#ixzz2OZ0DwkSQ

Steam Press MethodBy G.D. Palmer, eHow Contributor

The steam press method is ideal for keeping your delicate fabrics in good condition, while avoiding wrinkles. However, these fabrics can be damaged by improper pressing, and each requires its own special techniques. Cashmere, velvet, silk and delicate synthetics all have their particular pressing needs. Pay

careful attention to the fiber content and fabric type of your garments when you press, and you'll get the best results

CashmereCashmere wool is soft and comfortable. It's also known for being tricky to clean. You can't just toss your cashmere sweaters into the washer and dryer. Take your sweater to the dry cleaner or hand wash and steam clean. To steam press a cashmere sweater, set it to a low temperature that won't damage the wool. Steam it gently, one area at a time, and hang it as usual.

SilkSilk is a strong fabric, but it wrinkles very easily. Press delicate silk fabrics on low heat to avoid removing the shine. Don't press for long periods of time---use a quick, light touch. Holding the iron on them for too long can leave imprints on your silk garments. Take care not to re-wrinkle your garment by leaning on it when you move to a new area, and hang the garment immediately after pressing.

SyntheticsNylon, rayon and other synthetics must be pressed on the lowest setting because they burn and scorch easily. Steam press with a towel or other buffer fabric between the press plate and the garment. Press the back side of the garment only, and avoid holding the iron on the material for too long, as with silk.

Formal GownsFormal dresses are often made from delicate fabrics such as silk, satin or chiffon. Check the tags---some gowns that appear to be silk are really polyester or another artificial fiber. Pressing methods for these fabrics are different than those for natural fabrics. Press gowns inside out if possible, and never press on high heat. Avoid extended steam pressing, which may scorch or melt the fibers. Iron areas with lace or embroidery separately to prevent wrinkling. Hang the gown as soon as you're done pressing, and allow the fabric to cool before wearing. This prevents stretching and damage to delicate fabric.

Read more: Steam Press Method | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_5840448_steam-press-method.html#ixzz2OYsvCy2p

Uses for a Steam PressBy Amanda Abernathy, eHow Contributor

For that wrinkle-free look, the steam press is an excellent option.

Fashion experts the world over use the steam press as an effective way of ridding fabrics and materials of wrinkles. Moist heat penetrates the fabric, relaxing the fibers, allowing the wrinkles to release. Ironing has been a custom traced back to the Roman and Egyptian empires. The method changes but the result is the same: material free from wrinkles is pleasant to look at.

Varieties of Steam Presses

The term, steam press, is used for two separate and useful apparatus. There is the steamer that uses an atmospheric steam to permeate the garment with either little or no contact with the material, used while the garment is hanging in its natural form. There is also the press that compresses the fabric between two hot surfaces that look like ironing boards.

1. Smoothing and Refreshing Garments

Steam is five times faster than ironing. The modern choice is the gentlest, quickest, most reliable and efficient method to remove wrinkles, and can be used on the most fragile materials and fabrics. It is the industry standard backstage on film sets, fashion shows and photo shoots. The steamer is convenient to refresh garments after unpacking during travel. Smaller travel versions are available for those on the go.

2. Creasing, Pleating and Starching

This form of steam press is 14 times the size of an average iron and is used for distinctive starched looks. Press several layers of fabric at once and create a crisp look. It is excellent for jeans, pleated uniforms, dress shirts and slacks. Use it for that industrial straight-from-the-dry cleaner crispness.

3. Multiple Uses

The hand-held version is used for personal use and industry professionals to steam press and smooth everything from wigs to drapery to clothing, upholstery, carpeting and wallpaper. Use the steamer skillfully; it is a remarkable tool for putting on that finishing touch for all types of projects.

Sponsored Links Read more: Uses for a Steam Press | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/info_8581031_uses-steam-press.html#ixzz2OYrpEfzI

Types of Pressing Equipment Used in the Garment Industry

There are various types of garment pressing equipment used in the garment industry for different types of garments. Most garment pressing equipment machines range from miniature ironing boards to specialized steam machinery for different types of garments. Pressing equipment is also used in industries such as laundromats and small fabric shops.

Pre-Design Garment Pressing Equipment : Pre-design garment pressing equipment prepares unpressed fabric through ironing before it is designed or cut. These machines are manually operated by pressing down on the fabric with a push bar that lowers the presser onto the fabric. Pre-garment pressers also are used to define stitching lines in a garment before it is cut or designed.

Collar and Lapel Garment Pressing equipment : Garment collar and lapel pressing equipment is ergonomically designed to press shirt collars, blouses, coats and jackets. The pressing board is curved so the collar or lapel of a garment fits snugly on the layout board of the garment pressing equipment. Many collar and lapel presses are hand

Jacket Garment Pressing Equipment : Jacket garment pressing equipment is engineered to the shape of the jacket, and is manually operated by a pressing bar. It is designed to press the inside and outside of the jacket, which includes the base fabric or lining inside of the jacket. Jacket garment pressing equipment can range from 51 inches on a flat surface to 72 inches for large coats and jackets.

Sleeve and Arm Garment Pressing Equipment : Sleeve and arm garment pressing equipment is used to iron the sleeves of jackets and coats after the garment is manufactured or designed. Sleeve and arm pressers are engineered vertically or as flat-surface machines with the pressing boards shaped in the form of an arm. Depending on the type of fabric the jacket or coat is made of, there are different settings for each type of fabric. These settings range from low, medium or high settings, which can be adjusted by a dial or switch.

Miniature Garment Pressing Equipment : Miniature garment pressing equipment is used to iron smaller fabrics after the manufacturing or design phase. These finishing garment pressing machines consist of hand-ironing devices attached to the pressing board for manual ironing. The ironing boards are flat surfaces shaped in a square or rectangle for easy ironing.

Read more: Types of Pressing Equipment Used in the Garment Industry | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_6178473_types-equipment-used-garment-industry.html#ixzz2NbZe5ShP

Technological Advancement In Pressing It focuses on several area:-

Greater versatility

More precision in determining exact pressing requirements of fabrics and finishes

Improved quality

Energy savings

F l a t W o r k I r o n e r

Machine to dry and iron all flat materials. e.g. -Bed Sheets, Pillow covers, Table

Cloth & Napkins directly after Hydro extraction to produce a quality finish.

Excellent design of roller angle ensures greater area of contact to give higher output and increased productivity.

This machine is fed from the front, with a front return type.

Micro processor control and inverter drives are present to regulate speed up to 10 mtrs / min.

Feeding and heating belts are imported to ensure the best quality and long life.

Very low power and steam consumption compact design of front head and return requires working space only on the front side.

This machine is equipped with digital temperature indicator and digital speed indicator.

Hand safety guard and emergency stop are provided to ensure safe working conditions.

Variable speed drive for different types of fabrics and reversing the direction are also possible.

Specially designed blower to remove excess moisture.

Available in 2 standard sizes.

Machines of higher evaporation ratio with 600 mm also available.

Triostar-Collar & Cuff Press

Presses collars and cuffs for shirts and blouses.

The radius can be changed for big and small cuffs and blouses/shirts with short sleeve slits

Built in suction for better positioning before pressing and cooling after pressing

Flexible heater mat that adapts to the shape of the cuffs and the collar

Optimal temperature setting and digital temperature display

Adjustable pressure setting for delicate fabrics

Integrated workstation design for easily picking up and putting down the forms

The sleeves of a short-sleeved shirt can be pressed on the collar press

Twin star HP-V2 Shirt Body Press

Twin-form cabinet for high productivity.

Shaped pressing plates with electrical oil bath ,heating and precision temperature control for a high quality finish.

Integrated vacuum for correct shirt position in without clamping marks.

Open pressing for clean front edges, to avoid button marks, and for perfectly pressed side seam areas.

Optimal temperature setting and digital temperature display

Air bags for perfect pressing of side areas, independent from size sand styles

Direct pneumatic pressure system allows the adjustment of high specific pressure, often required for high quality finishing of cotton shirts

Improved Side Area shaping -The elastic side forming elements adapt automatically to the side contour of the shirts without then ecessity of individual adjustments

Finishing Techniques

Pressing and finishing quality can 'make or break' a garment.

The move offshore means that garments are morelikely to become creased during transportation, while new fabrics and surface treatments present new challenges for manufacturers.

Ramsons Needle Detector

When the sensor detects a broken needle pin or needle chip, a buzzer will automatically sound and the conveyor belt will stop

The machine is available in two modes of operation viz. Production & Test Card

10 indicator lamps identify the exact location of a foreign object

The control panel is equipped with a safety lock

A protective cover for the control panel is available so as not to hi t the sensitivity level or change the mode of operation by accident

Thread Sucking Machines

Thread sucking machine absorbs all the loosely attached threads stuck on the garment after stitching

Pneumatic operation ensures that the process of thread sucking is efficient

A vario-oscillation with suction ensures almost simultaneous removal of threads and other waste particles

This even helps in removing the odour of chemically washed garments

The economy of the machine is realized when precious man hours and resources as well as valuable floor space are saved

The average daily capacity in an 8-hour shift is 2000 pieces whereas if this operation is done manually, it would require 4 people and 24 hours to do the same

All the loose threads and waste evicted from the garment is accumulated inside the machine and can be removed by simply opening the front door

The size of the standard model is 44" taper. 65" height and 56" width and can be used for a variety of garments ranging from shirts to skirts of different sizes

Strong suction devices and a unique design ensure the removal of threads from all parts of garments

Automatic working via photo-sensors and manual operation by a foot switch

This machine comes equipped with a large polycarbonate viewing glass

There is an adjustable suction control damper for different types of fabrics

References:- The Technology of Clothing Manufacture by Harold Carr and Barbara Latham.

www.ramsonsindia.com

Guide to Apparel and Textile Care Symbols (Canada)

Guide to Apparel and Textile Care Symbols   (PDF, 596   KB, 6   pages)

A revised Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB) standard providing new and improved industry symbols to help consumers clean and launder clothing safely was hot off the press in December 2003. The new standard (CAN/CGSB-86.1-2003) reflects the labelling practices being discussed by the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and is also harmonized with the American and international standard on care labelling.

In the new edition, five basic symbols identify care treatments for washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and professional cleaning. The symbols are in black and white, replacing the previous edition's“traffic-light” colours of green, amber and red.

The temperature of a treatment appears either in degrees Celsius or is defined by a series of dots (a hand iron symbol with one dot means the garment can be safely ironed at a temperature of 110°C). And bars help illustrate the severity of the treatment (one bar below a wash tub means the garment should be machine washed using a mild treatment).

Other symbols define techniques for professional cleaning, hand washing, and natural drying – dry flat, line dry, drip dry, dry in the shade.

Index of basic symbols

Washing Symbols Bleaching Symbols Drying Symbols Ironing/Pressing Symbol Professional Textile Care Symbols Use of Dots For Defining Temperature of Water for Washing Symbol Supplementary Care Symbol

Washing SymbolsSymbol

Description

Wash in commercial machine in water not exceeding 95°C, at normal setting.

Wash in commercial machine in water not exceeding 95°C, at permanent press setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 70°C, at normal setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 60°C, at normal setting.

Washing SymbolsSymbol

Description

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 60°C, at permanent press setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 50°C, at normal setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 50°C, at permanent press setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 50°C, at delicate/gentle setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 40°C, at normal setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 40°C, at permanent press setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 40°C, at delicate/gentle setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 30°C, at normal setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 30°C, at permanent press setting.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 30°C, at delicate/gentle setting.

Wash gently by hand in water not exceeding 40°C.

Wash gently by hand in water not exceeding 30°C.

Wash in domestic or commercial machine at any temperature, at normal setting.

Do not wash.

Bleaching SymbolsSymbol Description

Use any bleach when needed.

Use only non-chlorine bleach when needed.

Bleaching SymbolsSymbol Description

Do not bleach.

Drying SymbolsSymbol Description

Tumble dry at high heat (not exceeding 75°C) at normal setting.

Tumble dry at medium heat (not exceeding 65°C) at normal setting.

Tumble dry at medium heat (not exceeding 65°C) at permanent press setting.

Tumble dry at low heat (not exceeding 55°C) at permanent press setting.

Tumble dry at a low heat (not exceeding 55°C) at delicate cycle.

Tumble dry any heat.

Tumble dry no heat/air dry.

Do not tumble dry.

After extraction of excess water, line dry/hang to dry.

Hang up the soaking wet article to “drip” dry.

After extraction of excess water, dry the article on a suitable flat surface.

Dry in the shade (symbol added to line dry, drip dry, or dry flat).

Do not dry. To be used with “Do not wash” symbol .

Ironing/Pressing SymbolsSymbol

Description

Iron with or without steam by hand, or press on commercial equipment, at a high temperature (not exceeding 200°C). Recommended temperature for cotton and linen textiles.

Iron with or without steam by hand, or press on commercial equipment, at a

Ironing/Pressing SymbolsSymbol

Description

medium temperature (not exceeding 150°C). Recommended temperature for polyester, rayon, silk, triacetate and wool textiles.

Iron with or without steam by hand, or press on commercial equipment, at a low temperature (not exceeding 110°C). Recommended temperature for acetate, acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, polypropylene and spandex textiles.

Do not steam.

Do not iron or press.

Professional Textile Care SymbolsSymbol Description

Dry-clean, normal cycle. Any solvent except trichloroethylene

Dry-clean, normal cycle. Petroleum solvent only.

Do not dry-clean.

Use of Dots For Defining Temperature of Water for Washing SymbolSymbol Definition Description

95°C Near boil

70°C Extremely hot

60°C Very hot

50°C Hot

40°C Warm

30°C Cool

Supplementary Care Symbol

Symbol Description

Do not wring

Wet-clean

Supplementary Care Symbol

Symbol Description

Do not wet-clean.

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For more information on the Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB) and how to order the standardCAN/CGSB-86.1-2003, please visit their Web site at www.ongc-cgsb.gc.ca, or contact Ms. Patricia Dolhan at (819) 956-0777.

Cat. no. 0-662-37764-8ISBN Iu23-3/2004E-HTML54173

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