FUNDAMENTALS OF APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND COST NEGOTIATION

Welcome To The Presentation On

Submitted ToDr. Mashiur Rahman Khan

Associate Prof. And Head Of The Dept. of AME

Bangladesh University Of Textiles

Apparel MerchandisingDept. of AME

Sub. Code: AME-556

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This Presentation Is Submitted By:

Md. Firoz KabirID: 2014-2-4-015

Dept. Of AMEBANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF

TEXTILES

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In 1980s Bangladesh Had Began To Export Ready Made Garments

Today This Sector Is Considered As Most Growing And Largest Sector Which Contributes 87%

Foreign Currency Earnings Textile-aid.com

In The Fiscal Year 2012-13 Bangldesh Exports 87% Textile

Goods Left Only 13%

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According To BGMEA 5600 Garments

Factories Are Producing Different Types Of Garments. About 4.2 Millions Peoples Are Doing Work In This Sector And Most Of Them

Are Women Textile-aid.com

What Types of Products Are Being Produced in Our Country?

Woven

ShirtPantJeansJakcetFormal DressesFasionable Baby GarmentsLadies WearNight GownsDress ,etc

Knitted

T-ShirtPolo ShirtSwimsuitDifferent Types of JerseyLingerieMens Under GarmentsTrousersWinter WearDifferent Fashionable Items, etc

Sweater & Home Textile

Vairous Kinds of SweatersBedding TextilesBlanketsCarpetsVarious Non-Woven Textiles ,etc

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WHO ARE THE CUSTOMERS?

Bangladesh Is Working

For Numerous Famous

Brands For Fashion

Across The World

WHO ARE THE CUSTOMERS?

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WHO ARE THE CUSTOMERS? USA IS THE

MAJOR MARKET FOR WOVEN GARMENTS

EU IS THE MAJOR MARKET

FOR KNIT GARMENTS

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Apparel Merchandising Is Directly Related To Negotiating Orders,

Buying And Selling Goods Trough Maintaining Better Relation And

Liaison With Both Buyers, Suppliers As Well As Factory Management

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Merchandisers Are Considered

As Key Persons In Apparel Industry

For Their Responsibilities

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Merchandisers Should Have Knowledge About Basic Textiles

Raw Materials Of Textiles

Different Process In Textiles Producing

Should Know About Yarn, Fabric, Dyeing Procedures Etc

Knowledge About Different Fashionable Garments As Well As Basic Items

Different Constructional Knowledge Of Garments

Fabrics, Trims And Accessories Cost And Production Lead Time

Better Communication Skill And Good Personality

Good Command In English In Both Oral And Written Textile-aid.com

Prime Six Roles Of A MerchandiserProduct

Development And Oder Negotiations

Doing Consumption And

Costing

Sample Making And Submission

For Approval

Making TNA Chart And Proper Filing

Negotiation With Suppliers For Booking And

Buyers For Further Approval

Attend to PPM & Co-ordination With

Factory Key Responsibilities And

Others Textile-aid.com

What Happens During Product Development

As Given By Buyer

Full Bill Of Materials

A Typical Measurement Chart

Sometimes Block Pattern

A Garment Specification Sheet

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Bill Of Materials

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Bill Of Materials

BOM Contains Fabric Details

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Bill Of Materials

BOM Contains Thread Details

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Bill Of Materials

BOM Contains Trims Details

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Bill Of Materials

BOM Contains Wash Details

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Measurement Chart

Measurement Chart

MC Contains Description of Each

Point of Measure

Measurement Chart

MC Contains Size Range

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Measurement Chart

MC Contains Tolerance Limit

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Measurement Chart

MC Contains Different Measurements for Different Sizes

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Garment Specification Sheet

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Garment Specification SheetStitching Details Are Completely Shown

By A Typical GSS

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What Happens During Product Development

As Made By Factory

Develop Pattern As Per MC and Block Pattern

Select Fabric and Trims As Per BOM

Sewing Samples as Per GSS

Cut The Fabrics as Per Pattern

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SAMPLES

Samples Are Very Important

Elements For Bulk Production.

Sample Making As Well As Getting Approval From Buyers Is Very

Important Job For Merchandisers

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SAMPLES

Samples Are Very Important

Elements For Bulk Production.

Sample Making As Well As Getting Approval From Buyers Is Very

Important Job For Merchandisers

Proto SampleDevelopment SampleSalesmen samples or promotional samplesFit samplesSize Set SamplesCounter samples or reference samples or approval samplesWash test/Lab test samplesFashion show samplesShade Band SamplesPre-production samplesTag/Sealer SampleProduction samplesShipment samples

Types Of Samples:

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Different Types Of Samples Are Asked By Different

Buyers

.Four Basic Type Of Samples Are Asked By Most Of The Buyer

But

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Fit samples

Fit Samples Or Size Set Samples

Are Made By Following Actual Measurements. These Samples

Are Fitted To Dummy For

Checking Fittings As Well

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Fit Samples Or Size Set Samples

Are Made By Following Actual Measurements. These Samples

Are Fitted To Dummy For

Checking Fittings As Well

Fit samplesCharacteristics

All Measurements hit the MC & within Tolerance

Construction and Stitching should as per GSS

Sample Must Follow The Full Styling Designed By Technician

Fabrics use must actual but trims may not be actual

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PP Samples

PP Samples Are Made By Following Full Workmanship.

This Is An Important Sample

For Bulk Production

PP Samples Are Made By Following Full Workmanship.

This Is An Important Sample

For Bulk Production

PP SamplesCharacteristics

Samples Must Follow Full Workmanship

Actual Fabircs as well as trims used

Stitching and Design must be as per specification sheet

In Bulk Production Follow This Sample strictly

Lab Test Samples Are Not Asked By

Buyers For Approval.

Lab Test Samples

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Lab Test Samples Are Not Asked By

Buyers For Approval.

Lab Test Samples

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This Samples Are The

Requirement For A Legal Issue

That There Are Not Presence

Any Substance Harmful For Wearer And Safety Of Products

Lab Test Samples

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This Samples Are The

Requirement For A Legal Issue

That There Are Not Presence

Any Substance Harmful For Wearer And Safety Of Products

Lab Test SamplesCharacteristics

Samples Make With Actual Fabrics And Trims

Make It Ready For Testing As Buyers Specification

Samples Should Not Fail At Any Point

Test Reports Is Required To Release Inspection Certificate As Well

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Who Test These Samples?

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Top Of Production (TOP) Are The Samples Asked By

Buyers At Bulk Production Stage To Make Sure That

Factory Is Doing Right Thing

Top/Production Samples

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Top Of Production (TOP) Are The Samples Asked By

Buyers At Bulk Production Stage To Make Sure That

Factory Is Doing Right Thing

Top/Production Samples

Samples Are Collected From Bulk

These Are The Samples Focus Original View Of Mass Production

Before Going To Ship Out These Samples Are Sent To Buyers

Approval From The End Of Buyers Is Required To Ship The Final Goods

Characteristics

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Consumption Calculation

This Is The Required

Amount Of Fabric To Make A

Garment

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Consumption Calculation Formula For Knit Top(Measurement in CM)

(B.L + S.L. + Allowance) X 1/2 Chest X 2 X GSM X 12 ÷ (10000 X 1000) kg/dz   

Here, B.L - Body LengthS.L - Sleeve LengthAllowance - Allowance would have considered for both B.L and S.LGSM - Gram Per Square Meter 10000 means cm is converted into meter1000  means gram is converted into kg

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Consumption Calculation Formula For Knit Top(Measurement In Inch)

(B.L + S.L. + Allowance) X 1/2 Chest X 2 X GSM X 12 ÷ (1550X 1000) kg/dz      

Here, B.L - Body LengthS.L - Sleeve LengthAllowance - Allowance would have considered for both B.L and S.LGSM - Gram Per Square Meter 1550 means inch is converted into meter (1 inch = 39.37" where inch square will be 39.37"X39.37") 1000  means gram is converted into kg

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Consumption Calculation Formula For Woven Bottom

Basic Consumption Formula For Woven Bottom:

Length x Width x 12 (Fabric Width x Unit)

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Consumption Calculation Formula For Woven Bottom

A Typical Example :

Some Measurements

Waist - 35"Outseam - 42"Inseam - 3o"Thigh - 26"Hip - 44"Bottom Opening - 18"

Fabric cut able width - 56"

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Consumption Calculation Formula For Woven Bottom

A Typical Example :

Total Leng and Width Values:

Length = 42" + 2"(Waist Band Height) + 3"(Al) = 45"(I have considered out seam for length but you can consider in seam along with back rise length and waistband length for total length)

Width = 26"+ 3" (Al) = 29" (In case of 1/2 t high circular the formula will be multiplied by 4)

Consumption Calculation Formula For Woven Bottom

A Typical Example :

Fabric required for making one dz pant:

(Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit) = (45" x 29" x 12) / (56" x 36")=15.88 yards/dz= consider as 16 yards/dz

Considering 5% wastage= 16+0.8 yards/dz=16.8 yards/dz

After All CAD Consumption Is Perfect For Fabric

Booking

CAD Consumption Contains All

Sizes Pattern So Efficiency

Will High With Minimal

Wastages

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Consumption Calculation Of Sewing Threads

Merchandisers Have Not

Enough Time For Thread

Consumption Because It Is Very Time

Consuming JobTextile-aid.com

Most of the Merchandisers

Follow a Common Consumption

Value Like This Chart

Consumption Calculation Of Sewing Threads

What We Really Do?

CostingBuyers Are Asked For Costing After Getting

Development Samples From

Factory. Sometimes They Might Be Asked

For It Just After Giving A Tech Pack To Compare With Others

Factories.

CostingThe Basic Requirements Of Garments Costing Are:

CM Of  Particular Styles

Fabric Consumption

Printing Cost

Embroidery Cost

Wash Cost

Trims Cost(zipper, Button, Label, Tape Etc)

Accessories Cost (Tag Pin, Hanger, Price Ticket, Hang Tag Etc)

Transport CostTextile-aid.com

A Typical Cost Sheet

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A Typical Cost SheetIt Contains Fabric Cost

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A Typical Cost Sheet

It Contains Total Trims

Cost

A Typical Cost Sheet

It Contains Wash Cost

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A Typical Cost SheetThis is The Final FOB

After The Satisfaction Of Buyer In Both

Samples And Costing They Will Confirm The

OrderTextile-aid.com

A Order Confirmation Mail looks like That

A Order Confirmation Mail looks like That

Now The Order is

Confirmed

That’s It

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Thank You All.

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