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Personal Care Industry in India

The Indian personal care industryhas taken rapid strides inthe last few years, moving

towards premium products incorporating specialty ingredients in their

formulation.However, a comparison with per capita consumption in China reflects the

largely untapped nature of the Indian market. Favo urable demographic factors andincreasing beauty consciousness indicate high future demand for personal care products

and specificallyfor active ingredients. Industry participants need to build greater awareness

and distribution reach and develop products tailored for the Indian market. Key trends,

including nanotechnology and green chemistry besides others, will influence their

strategies.The eventual winners would be those who ensure bet ter value offeringsto meet

the needs of the Indian consumer.

The personal care market in India is estimated to be worth $ 9-bn by 2014.In 2009 it was $

6-bn. Personal hygiene products (includingbath and shower products, deodorantsetc.), hair

care, skin care, colour cosmeticsand fragrances are the key segmentsof the personal care

market.

The skin care market is relativelysmaller and is growing at a high ratewhile moving awayfrom basic creamsand moisturizers to specialized productssuch as anti-wrinkle and

darkcircle removing creams. For example,the anti-ageing segment, though only 2% of the

skin care market, has beengrowing at a rate greater than 90% p.a.over the last few years.

Key trends and growth drivers in India.

As in other parts of the world, thedriving force behind personal careproducts has evolved

considerably inIndia. Starting from purely health notionsand moving on to fitness, thecurrent trend is towards well-beingcoupled with beauty. In an effort toadapt to these

changes, the industryhas moved from basic products, suchas soaps, shampoos and hair oils,

tofunctional products, such as cold creams, and now to specialized products,such as sun

block lotions, bodyexfoliating creams and skin whitening& anti -ageing products.

The sizable Indian population basewith rising disposable income offersthe personal care

industry a burgeoningmiddle class to market a large varietyof consumer products. As

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comparedto China, India has a higher personaldisposable income per householdand a

growing population ofwomen in the 25-44 age group, the keyconsumer segment.

However, China spends almost 10times as much on skin care, six times asmuch on cosmetics

and more than twotimes on hair care on a per capita basis.These figures indicate the huge

unrealizedpotential of the Indian market.

Several social, market and industrytrends signal the possibility of Indian personal care

industry realizingthis huge potential in the near future.Increasing urbanization, rising

participationof women in urban work forceand growing importanc e of looks andpersonal

grooming, not only for personal,but professional reasons, aresome of the key social drivers.

Markettrends like spread of organized retailto Tier II cities, development of non-traditional

segments like mens cosmetics(with products like hair gels and fairness creams) and

development ofwide range of products at differentprice points are all factors, which

could contribute to the growth of thedomestic personal care market. Industrytrends like

increasing competitionwith entry of large MNCs, increasedbrand building and customerawarenessinitiatives by companies are acceleratinggrowth. Subject to sustainedoverall GDP

growth rates of ~8-9% p.a., the overall Indian personalcare market has the potential to

growat 15%-16% p.a. (much higher rates forselect segments like colour cosmetics,skin care

and deodorants) and therebydouble to ~$8 -bn by 2012-13.

Source: Morgan Stanley Report, CIA World Fact Book

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Some more factors affecting this industry

Natural and herbal-based products find traction

During 2010, companies quickly ramped up the introduction of herbal, traditional ayurvedic

and mineral ingredients in cosmetics, as a means to monetise the current desire of

consumers to use natural-based products. The positioning of these ingredients was also

subtly changed from a rather traditional and old-fashioned platform to modern healthy

practice, leading to greater social acceptance and higher sales through the year.

Mens grooming takes off

With men becoming more comfortable with the notion of look ing good, awareness of mens

grooming products increased further in 2010. Apart from the usual categories of pre -shave

and razors, mens skin care, this promised fair and blemish-free skin, performed well. Every

major brand used Hindi movie stars for instant recall and acceptance. In addition to looking

good, smelling good is another important factor for men, which has driven growth in mens

deodorants.

Direct sellers make deep inroads

The market share of direct sellers, both multinational, for example Amway and Oriflame,

and domestic, for example Modicare, rose in 2010, as a result of concerted efforts to bring

in new products in colour cosmetics and skin care to create interest and excitement, as well

as the expansion of networks to reach more consumers in smaller cities. Major players like

Amway and Oriflame also started advertising, as they judged that they had reached critical

mass in terms of their networks, which would create pull if they advertised.

Steady growth forecast for beauty and personal care

All the factors that support good growth in the forecast period are in place a modern

retailing landscape providing the right ambience and target audiences, higher education,

sustained branding and good economic growth giving consumers more money to spen d.Premium products are projected to grow faster, as an increasing middle class consumer

base aspires to use more expensive products. In addition, sales of value -added products in

the mass segment are expected to increase, driven by convenience and efficacy, which will

help to boost overall value growth in the forecast period .

Major players of the Skin care industry in India

HINDUSTAN UNILEVER Ltd.

y Hindustan Unilever Limited (HUL) is India's largest Fast Moving Consumer Goods

Company, with over 20 distinct categories in Home & Personal Care Products and

Foods & Beverages.

y The companys Turnover is Rs. 17,523 crores (for the financial year 2009 - 2010).

y Major skin care products are:

y Fair and Lovely, Lakme, Ponds and Vaseline

y Breeze, Dove, Hamam, Lifebuoy, Liril, Lux, Rexona and Pears.

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Emami as a player in Personal care industry

Emami Limited is one of the fastest growing ayurveda-focused, health, beauty and personal

care product companies in India today.

They are in the field of manufacturing of health, beauty and personal care products for over35 years. Through the efforts of a team of committed and competent personnel, we strive

for continual improvement in our quality performances.

Headquarter: Kolkata

Manufacturing plants: Kolkata, Guwahati , Pondicherry , Vapi, Pantnagar, Talasari and

Silvassa,

Manufacturing facilities with cGMP and ISO 9001:2000 certifications .

Important Product Categories Manufactured

They have a portfolio of over 30 products derived from select and effective ayurvedic,

natural and herbal ingredients. Their main product categories consist of the following:

Hair Care

Skin Creams , soaps and lotions

Talcum Powder

Ayurvedic Health Care Products

Various Brands

Emami believes in building categories by meeting unfulfilled consumer needs. Emami

Limited has over 25 brands under its portfolio. The focus is on providing the consumers with

innovative products which are capable of meeting their multiple needs and add va lue by

enhancing the quality of life. Through innovative and power brands, Emami touches the

lives of all consumers, spanning across various income groups in both urban and rural India.

Emamis success story is not only weaved around the holistic healing s ystem of ayurveda,

but also in its product innovation, dynamic and focused leadership, a strong supply -chain

management and unwavering commitment to partners and stakeholders. The popular

brands like Boroplus, Navratna, Fast Relief and Fair and Handsome are an outcome of

deeper understanding of Indian consumers. A brand is a commitment to consumers and in

Emami, its brands are a synthesis of innovation, cutting-edge technology; product efficacy

and intelligent pricing that have made them the peoples choice.

Baby Massage Oil Mentho PlusMalaiKesar Cold Cream

Boroplus Antiseptic Cream Navratna Cool Talc

Fair and Handsome Navratna Extra Thanda

Hairlife Navratna Oil

Himani Fast Relief SonachandiAmritprash

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Brand Fair & Handsome

Emamis presence in skin care segment of personal care is with Fair &Handsome.In the

segment it is the market leader with 66% of market share.( on august 2011-data from

economics times)

Fair And

Handsome Product ideology:Emami created acompletely new market segment inintroducing

Indias first fairness creamcustomised for men.

Product attributes:Emami (incollaboration with Activor Corp.)created a unique fairness

cream formen with a breakthrough Double Strength Peptide complex patented inthe

US. This wonder peptide works onthe collagen structure of male skin,

visibly improving skin texture andfairness in just four weeks. Containsliquorice, vetiver

and aloe vera, itspleasant cooling sensation provides arefreshing after -shave effect.Major players:Competitors includeNivea Whitening, MenzActive,Fair One Man and Set

Wet Get Fair.

Product differentiation: The productimproves fairness in four weeks,regulates melanin

production andprovides a natural sunscreen againstUV rays. It moisturises the skin,

leaving it fair and fresh with a coolingsensation.

Brand strategy:Compared towomens skin male skin is thrice more exposed to the

suns UV rays, fivetimes more exposed to pollution andtwice more exposed to stress.

Besides,research revealed that more than 30%of fairness cream users were men with

a growing interest in personalgrooming. For instance, an Indian malespend an average

20 minutes in frontof the mirror each morning comparedwith the average Indian

womans 18minutes [Source: Gillette India],prompting the Company to developafairness cream for men now agrowing market in the country.

Advertising:The Company investedaggressively in brand promotion.It enlisted Shah

Rukh Khan as thenational brand ambassador and actorSurya as the brand ambassador

for Tamil Nadu and adjoining states.

Competitive edge:The brand the first to introduce a fairness creamfor men

captured consumer mindshare. The enlistment of Shah RukhKhan as brand

ambassador enhancednationwide brand recall.

Analysis

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Segmentation

Metro sexual is a word describing men who have a strong concern for their aesthetic

appearance, and spend asubstantial amount of time and money on their imagesand

lifestyles. The look cool culture is becomingepidemic among the Indian youth. Today the

CompleteMan is more popular than Marlboro Man. Genderstereotype boundaries are

blurring and men do nothesitate to exhibit their feminine side.

HLL never imagined that men could want to be fair andhandsome, or their researches were

all around womenso they didnt find out men used it too. Or they knew,but didnt see a

need to have a special cream for men.E mamisresearch found that out.Emami went for

serious customer research which showed that 25-30% of customers of Fairness creams were

men. That customer insight paved way for a specialized brand for men .

In 2005, with the launchof F air and Handsome (FAH), E mami became the firstcompany in

India to launch a fairness cream exclusivelyfor men. As a category creator, E mami has gone

anddisrupted the way male grooming is being treated in thiscountry.

Targeting & Positioning

Initially the brand was positioned as a fairness cream formen who wanted to look good andwere erstwhile usersof womens creams. Emami also marketed its product by emphasizing

that womens creams did not work onmen because of the differences in their skin types,

andthe differences in the conditions to which they wereexposed on a daily basis. Since FAH

was a categorycreator such a strategy was probably justified at that time.

The current positioning strategy of FAH gives theimpression that the users lack confidence,

feel insecureand possess low self esteem. In the process the brand isrepelling a lot of self

assured men who want to take careof their skin rather than merely attract women. They

might want to do it for career related needs or merely forthe feel good factor. Hence it

might help to grow themarket for FAH if the brand addresses the host of issuesfaced by men

rather than merely being attractive to girls.FAH by default is restricting itself to the

Fairnessproposition. Even when it is addressing the issue offairness, the bra nd needs to

project itself as anaspirational brand a brand for winners rather than forlosers.

With times there is always a need tolook at changing requirements in the present scenario

with long term focusfor the success of any brand/product.

Target for Fair and Handsome should not berestricted to teenagers/ college going students.

There seems to be a high potentialfor the product to grow across age groups and not

beinglimited to teenagers. Indian youth being not financially independent at an early age

(below 21years of age) may restrict the usage of the product to anextent.The post launch

research done by E mami also supportsthat the product may appeal to men, due to

differentproduct benefits, across different age groupscategorised as youth.As a result, it

should not be considered as a productprimarily for teenagers. It can be extended for

youngmen in urban areas.Therefore,considering the long term perspective the product

shouldbe marketed for youth in general with a common mantheme which can appeal to all,

in the market who wantto look handsome or are looks conscious.Present positioning takes

two stands as per the nameof the product i.e., being fair as well as being handsome.This

positioning is not emphasizing the fairness part onlyas indicated by saying Hi Handsome

though theconcept of being handsome is associated with gettingfair after the use of the

cream. Here positioning standcan be the personality of the user that may come out tobe an

effective positioning. Taking into considerationthe previous contro versies towards the

advertisementsfor females fairness cream and the report from medicalfield, no false or

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y Soon th ! Go " iChittiB # hoo ph ! no$ !

non is going to hit Men b%

gro&

ing demand for a Gora

ChittaJamai - Shobha De

y Men are also under pressure to loo ' better - Prahalad ( akkar

y Most dark-skinned men are as insecure as women and go to equal lengths, albeit secretl)

,

to achieve lighter skin 0 - 1 ditor of men's magazine, Man's World, Jerry Pinto

Product

Emami in c2 3 3

aboration with Activor Corp, USA has create4 a unique fairness cream for men

Fair And Handsome "Peptide complex patented in the USA" . This wonder molecule peptide

works on the collagen structure of male skin and dramatically improves skin te 5 ture and enhance

skin's natural tone and give it a beautiful glow. It also gives pleasant after shave eff ect. Face the

day with a natural glow.Important f eature of the product is its unique 5 power fairness system.

y Double strength peptide complex-eff ectively penetrates tougher male epidermis to

regulate melanin production.

y Sunguard-counter over e 6 posure of male skin to sun and UV rays.

y Anti bacplus-protects skin against pollution and darkshadow caused by daily

shaves,nicks and cuts.

y Stress buster-remove dead cells and rejuvenate skin.

y Herbocool-makes skin fair and fresh with a present cooling sensation.

These is the chart on the website of the brand which gives us the thought process of

brand.

A market leader must be potentially aware of flank attacks on its authority. As

change becomes the name of the game, even brands like FAH had to innovate by

off ering new benefits to the customers.Emami in collaboration with ActivorCorp.,USA,has created a unique fairness cream for men with a breakthrough fast

action Lumino Peptide(trademark) to make skin fairer in just 3 weeks(previously it

was 4 weeks)This was developed by USA based DR C.Zaveri,renowned skin e 7 pert

and protégé of 2 times nobel prize winner,in collaboration with Indian herbalists and

dermatologists.Currently the f eature of the product is its 5 action fairness system

for tough male skin

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1. Fast action Lumino Peptide(tm)-penetrates deep int tough male skin,making

it fairer in 3 weeks.

2. UV Block-Protects skin pigmentation caused by UVA/UVB rays,dirt and

pollution.

3. Mark Free-Removes blemishes caused by shaving cuts and bruises.

4. Protein Booster-Improves texture,reduces wrinkles and smoothens skin.

5. Glow Plus-Makes skin glow with Vitamin E & A.

Still Emami had to shift the focus from fair skin to healthy skin. Over focuson fairness is

myopic. Every man, irrespective of hiscomplexion, needs to keep his facial skin healthy. FAH

is a cream with multiple benefits and positioning it justas a fa irness cream is myopic. A

beautiful face is a dream of all men.Health and beauty are the two cherished values by all

men and are broader and holistic than fairness. Emami therefore launched new products

under FAH with different features to take care overall needs of skincare for men rather than

only fairness.

1)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED FAIRNESS AFTER-SHAVE BALM

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness

system with Hydra-Comfort delivers 5 Unique benefits:

MOIST 8 RISES: Hydrating formula maintains the skin's natural moisture balance and keepsitsupple.

SOOTHES: Unique Hydra-Comfort formula soothes rough skin and eases the shaving

irritation.

WHITENS: Penta-peptide complex influences the melanin synthesis to whiten skin tone

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Dark

REFRESHES: Soothing herbal actives cool, refresh and provides comfort from razor burns.

PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to promote the healing of minor

nicks & cuts from shaving.

2)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED WHITENING FIRMING FACE MASK

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness system with Nutra-

Tone delivers 5 unique benefits:

FIRMS:UniqueNutra-Tone formula absorbs excess oil & impurities as it clarifies and firms

dull lifeless skin, stimulating cellular renewal.

MOISTURISES: Hydrating formula soothes & maintains the skins natural moisture balance

and keeps it free from stretching.

WHITENS: Penta-peptide complex influences the melanin synthesis to whiten skin tone,

reduce blemishes and dark shadows caused by daily shaving to improve skins clarity.

REFRESHES: Soothing herbs cool, refresh and comfort dry irritated skin.

PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to combat action of

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pollution&climate on skin.

3)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED WHITENING REGENERATING

FACE-SCRUB

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairnesssystem with MenthaCryst and Aluminum Oxide micro-particles providedermabrasion &

delivers 5 Unique benefits:

MOISTURISES: Hydrating formula keeps skin moist and soft preventing irritation and skin

stretching.

POLISHES: Unique blend of MenthaCryst& Aluminum Oxide micro -particles provide

dermabrasion which polishes and refines the skin texture for ultra smooth skin, while

exfoliating dead skin cells.



REFRESHES: Soothing herbs cool, refresh and comfort dry irritated skin.

PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to combat action of pollution &

climate on skin.

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4)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED WHITENING REFRESHING

FACEWASH

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness system with Nutra-

Fresh delivers 5 unique benefits:

MOISTURISES: Non-drying soap-free hydrating formula keeps skin moist and soft,

maintaining the skins natural moisture balance and keeps it free from stretching.

CLEANSES: Removes deep impurities & dirt to visibly brighten skin, improve clarity and

prevents clogging of pores.



REFRESHES: Nutra-Fresh cools & refreshes while maintaining the skin's natural moisture

balance.

PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to combat action of pollution

and climate on skin.

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5)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED WHITENING DAY-LONG

MOISTURISER

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness

system with AquaXyl delivers 5 unique benefits :

MOISTURISES: AquaXyl delivers extra moisturising all-day long. It refreshes and keeps skin

smooth & supple.

SUNGUARD: Active UVA / UVB filter counters overexposure of male skin and protects from

darkening and premature ageing.



HERBOCOOL: A unique blend of herbal actives extra-cool the skin and keep it fresh all-day

long.

PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to combat action of pollution &

climate on skin.

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Place

Initially the product was launched inAndhra Pradesh then in Karnataka and then nationally

within a span of five months.Initially Fair & Handsomehad chosen channels likeKaya Clinic

and Army Canteens, which shows it focused on high profile people and positioned itself as a

premiumbrand.Currently both Emami and HLL have beenzeroing in on both the urban and

rural marketsfor the mens fairness products. At some stageEmami will need to further

differentiate FAHfor the rural market with its distinct psychosocial and physical environment

(for instancefar greater exposure to the sun). This should alsobe accompanied with a

differentiated pricingstrategy and one week use sachets to promotetrial purchase.

Price

Fair and handsome Unique 5-Power Formula was priced at Rs. 68 for 60gms.

Fair and handsome with Active lumino peptide is priced at Rs 79 for 60gms and Rs 40 for

30gms and Rs 8 for 9gms.Where Vaseline Men is priced at Rs 75 for 30gms and fair and

lovely max fairness is priced at Rs 78 for 50gms.

PromotionEmamibecame the first company in India to launch a fairnesscream exclusively for men.

Because Fair and Handsome(FAH) was a category creator, its launch was supported

by heavy promotion. The theme of the companysadvertisements revolved around bringing

out the fact thata large number of men used womens fairness creams.Promotional

strategies used FAH till now shows that users lack confidence and feel insecure if they are

not fair.It repels a lot of self assured men who want to use the product for skincare,career

related needs or for feel good factor.Only issuing fairness proposition is restricting the

brand,but with new range of FAH products for skincare we have to wait for their promotion

theme.In their latest advertisement they improved the postioning by showing that career

opportunity may enhance by using the product but how can fairness and career be related is

again an issue and it was showing that the product is for losers and not for winners .InOctober 2007 Emami organized Mr Handsome Contest for the first time in India.During the

launch Mr. Mohan Goenka, Director, Emami Group of Companies said We at Emami have

always spotted trends inthe male grooming segment and have tried to imbibe them to

enhance our productportfolio for men. This contest will not only set industry standards

when it comes to theconcept of male looks but also when it comes to influencing this

segment. To begin with,we have started Emami Mr Handsome Contest from Mumbai this

year but since thiscontest is our intellectual property, we very soon plan to take it national.

Men have every right to demand a skin-lightening cream if they need it. But the key issue

is the way it is advertised. Is there a way to advertise askin-lightening cream by not making

any MAN feel like hes a loser if hes not fair?Use of fear of rejection has been a popular

advertisingstrategy for many personal care products. However, inthis segment of fairnesscreams where the issue goes intodebates over racist mindset it might be important for

Emami to take a few lessons from the West in thepromotion of such products.The only

difference is in the west it ismarketed more subtly: You dont have to wait till

summer to have beautiful skin vs. an advertisement which equates fairness with

automaticsuccess both in career and romantic lives.Consumers know that complexion is

genetic and cannotbe drastically changed through a topical cream. Thus E mami needs to

focus on the overall facial beauty andpersonality of the men. How the confidence and

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selfesteem can be enhanced by grooming well need to befocused. As a socially responsibly

company, E mami

should avoid the deliberate attempt to make darkcomplexioned youth feel inferior. The

focus should beon grooming, beauty and health rather than oncomplexion.

The initial campaign of Fair and Handsome didntuse any celebrity appeal. However, in the

recentadvertisements also Shahrukh Khan is not a celebrityendorser in true sense. It can be

said that through recentthe advertisements Shahrukh Khan is associated with Fairand

Handsome campaign as an advisor. He himself isnot using the product in the advertisement.

He is ratherrecommending it to other men to use Fair and Handsomeinstead of any other

fairness cream meant for females.But on the product packet it is printed Use Fair and

Handsome like me-Shah RukhKhan.Using celebrity appeal for FAH was highly criticised.On

25th

September,2007 criticism also hit BBC news.Some points of the article by

NareshPuri,BBC News were as such "Shahrukh Khan is a huge star in India and his

endorsement will no doubt raise the profile of this product," he says. "Impressionable young

men will get the idea that if they want to be attractive like him, they should also use it. The

cult of media personality, especially cricket or Bollywood stars, is a much bigger phenomena

in India and so brands are much more partial to celebrity endorsements. But what SRK is

essentially doing is confirming and promoting the condescending attitude that many Indians

have towards dark-coloured skin. His endorsement is completely immoral.Neither the

manufacturers nor a spokesman for Khan would comment on his involvement in the

campaign. A major Bollywood star backing a skin-lightening cream will intensify the

prejudice that already exists within the South Asian community, in which the darker skinned

can find themselves looked down upon - just as it still happens in parts of India today.

We feel that nodirect celebrity endorsement should be done for thecream. It should be with

the common man only. Thiswill help the people to link well with the product. The important

thing is to connect the people with thebenefits of the product in the right and

logicalperspective.Communication through packaging is well handled.Details on the role of each ingredients and the frequency and duration of use are explained clearly.

For FAH Men skin care they have a very good website and a facebook page.

Immediate future actions to be taken based on above analysis.

y Avoid over focus on fairness.

y Slice of life ads from other crucial moments

of Males life need to be used.

y Look beyond youth segment.

y Launch line extensions based on skin types.

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References

W ebsites

y http://www.fairandhandsome.ae/home

y http://www.fairandhandsome.net/

Journals

y VISION²The

Journal of Business Perspective l Vol. 11y Chemical Weekly, October 2009.

Articles

y The economic times.

y Business line.

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