Posture difference - Welcome to PatternMaker POSTURE DIFFERENCE Information about balance, posture...

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POSTURE DIFFERENCE

Information about balance, posture difference and

proportions

used with the patterns for women designed by Leena Leehthamaki

for PatternMaker

Posture difference

© 2013 Pattern Made 4 You

Content

Chapter 1 Introduction 1

Chapter 2 Order of work 2

Chapter 3 Measuring instructions 3

Chapter 4 Posture difference 4

................................................................................................ 4What is 'Posture difference' 1

................................................................................................ 5Patterns with separate front and back measurement tables 2

................................................................................................ 6Shoulder difference adjustment 3

................................................................................................ 8Cup size adjustment 4

................................................................................................ 10Sleeve adjustment 5

................................................................................................................................. 10Sleeve adjustment with bigger bust dart

................................................................................................................................. 12Sleeve adjustment with separate Measure Tables

................................................................................................ 14Fitting the bodice 6

Chapter 5 Calculations 15

................................................................................................ 15Determine your Standard size 1

................................................................................................ 15Determine shoulder difference 2

................................................................................................ 16Calculate posture difference 3

................................................................................................ 17Determining your cupsize difference 4

................................................................................................ 17Measurement table Front 5

................................................................................................ 18Measurement table Back 6

1Introduction


1 IntroductionWorking with patterns of the Designer leena is an enjoyable and addictive activity. It does notmatter if you are tall, short, fat or thin, the patterns are drawn to your own personalmeasurements. For the Pattern Collections for women Leena has made a special measure tabel:Leena_default_women.mmt . The measuring instructions for this tabel and a form to fill in( Leena_default_women.pdf) can be found when creating a measure tabel. However, fitting problems after careful measuring still occur sometimes. This is because noteveryone is build to the same proportions.

Most sizing systems make assumptions about the proportions of the body and this is t also thecase with macros of Leena. So if you exceed the limits of these assumptions fitting problems canoccur in both the bodice and trousers/pants.

Unfortunately, we are no longer able of adapting the macros, because, sadly, Leena, whoprogrammed these patterns, passed away.

However, we have devised a way to solve these problems. You have to make some calculations,then there are a few extra steps to make fine adjustments to the patterns. Most fitting problemscan be solved with this.To do the maths, we have made an Excel spreadsheet, Leena_Posture_difference_measureform.xls. Once you have entered the relevant measurements, the Excel spreadsheet calculates whichmeasurement you should change or what changes you need to make for a good fit to thepattern. The changes in the measurement form are very easy to implement, the changes in the patternsare more complicated. But certainly, if you follow carefully the step by step instructions, youwill get a good fit.

You will find the Posture_difference_measureform in the menu Help\Manuals in the ordnerLeena

2 Posture difference


2 Order of workTake accurate measurements Taking measurements is one of the most important things if you want to achieve success withthis program.Do not measure yourself , it will give strange measurements. Watch the measuring instructionsen pictures in the measure table in the software! With the button PDF in the measure table you can open and print the measuring instructions.

Determine the ‘shoulder difference’ For a better armscye shape, determine the ‘shoulder difference’. (use the Leena_Posture_difference_measureform.xls)

Determine the ‘posture difference’ Are you in balance? For a good pattern, start by calculating your posture difference. (use the Leena_Posture_difference_measureform.xls)

Determine the ‘Cupsize Difference’ Perhaps your backwidth is disproportionate to your overall bust measurement.This is caused by having a cup size which is either smaller or larger than average.(use the Leena_Posture_difference_measureform.xls)

Modify the Pattern Change the measurement form and/or pattern with your measurements and any posturedifference, cup difference and shoulder difference values as indicated by the Excel spreadsheet.

Make a fitting bodice Block/sloper Create with the fitting bodice macro a block/sloper to see if you have taken and entered yourmeasurements correctly. Check whether the changes have had the desired effect. With the fitting bodice block/sloper, you can also "fine tune" your adjustments and achieve aperfect fit.

Progress to a Real pattern After making a good fitting bodice pattern it’s time to start designing. Remember, if you havemade any adjustments to the block/sloper pattern, then the same changes must be made to theother macros.

Fabric Yardage Now you can work out your pattern layout and required yardage.

Sewing ............... And then the best part: making the garment!

3Measuring instructions


3 Measuring instructionsTaking the measurements correctly is very important for a success.Never measure yourself; this will be no success! Ask for help from your sister or a girlfriend. The program uses a custom table with illustrations and descriptive text, showing where youshould measure and especially how to make the measurements. Carefully read the descriptive text, and look closely at the picture.

Take the measurements while wearing underwear; a good bra is important and wear the sameone later again, when fitting the fitting bodice.Stand straight but relaxed, while you are being measured.

Take 4 lengths of buttonhole elastic and put it around you:

BreastWaistAbdomenHip

Use a fine chain necklace as a guide when measuring: Neck SizeShoulder LengthBack length

Caution!Make sure the elastics are level with the floor! Take the length measurements to/from the bottom of the elastic.All measurements are body measurements so do not add extra for ease; the program doesit for you according to the chosen ease option Ensure the measurements are neither too tight nor too loose!

Note a few key dimensions:

Waist HeightBack length Back width Shoulder LengthCrotch Depth

The program includes a measurement table - print it and fill it out as completely as possible.

Tip!Also include your weight. If you lose a few pounds it can immediately reduce somemeasurements by a few centimeters!

Enter a ll m ea surem ents in the Excel sprea dsheet a nd use the results a s described in the follow ingcha pters.




4.1 What is 'Posture difference'Almost every pattern sizing system is based on proportional sizing; bust circumference, back length and waist height need to be in the correct proportions. This is also true for the patterns of Leena. If these sizes are not in balance, then there is aposture difference.

What types of posture difference are there?

Forward leaning posture (the back length is proportionately longer than the waistheight) Backward leaning posture (the waist height is proportionately longer than the backlength) Prominent bust (the waist height is proportionately longer than the back length)

The first model has a perfect posture.

The second model has a slightly slouchedposture.The dotted 2nd model is badly slouchedwith a waistline going up and a forwardtilted pelvis; the latter can also result infitting problems for trousers. Also the shoulder tip is different for bothcompared to the perfect model.

The third model has a backward leaningposture (very erect). The dotted 3 rd modelhas a prominent bust and a waistline goingdown; in addition her pelvis is tilted back.

5Posture difference


4.2 Patterns with separate front and back measurement tablesCalculate the Posture Difference with the Posture_difference_measureform.

The Excel spreadsheet indicates your posture difference:

If your posture difference is less than 3 cm, then you can split it between the values ofwaist height and back length to get the pattern back into balance. Fill in the dimensionsof the first column of the spreadsheet and continue with any other adjustments.

If your posture is more than 3 cm then you need to use a front measurement table and aback measurement table.On the Excel worksheet there are now 2 columns with headings Front and Back. So youneed to make separate measuring tables for the Front and Back!

In Pattern Maker go to custom settings table: Enter your Name + ‘Front’ and enter the values from the ‘Front’ column Save this measurement table as <name>Front.mtb Repeat this for the back measurement table, but save it as <name>Back.mtb

You have two custom measurement tables called <name>Front.mtb and <name>Back.mtb

1. Run the macro using layer 0 (black) and select your Front measurement table. 2. Erase the Back pieces

3. Select a different layer 1 (Green) 4. Run the macro again on the new layer but this time use your Back measurement table.5. Erase the green front pieces + green sleeve 6. Save the pattern 7. Caution! The side seams have different lengths. 8. Equalise the sideseams by only moving the armscye points (see Figure 1).

Move the front points …….. up / down (1/2 posture difference value).Move the back points …… down / up (1/2 posture difference value)

figure 1

Move the points 1, 2, 3, 4 up by half theposture difference. (Use Point / Movepoint) Type in the coordinates of the destinationpoint: r0, ....

Similarly, move the points 5, 6, 7, 8 down byhalf the posture difference. (Use Point /Move point). Type in the coordinates of the destinationpoint: r0 ,-......

figure 2

The side seams are now equal.

Caution! This may have consequences for the sleeve!



4.3 Shoulder difference adjustmentUse the Posture_difference_measureform to calculate the shoulder difference.

Some women have small shoulders, while having a large bust size. This can result in a poorshape to the armscye. Therefore it is recommended that you always start by using a shoulderlength which corresponds to your bust size. The excess length / shortfall is removed / added by manipulating the darts. This retains the armscye shape.

You can correct the shoulder length by rotating about the back and front shoulder dart points tocompensate for the shoulder difference. Step by step instructions are given below:

1. Select Point 1 LM, RM

2. Select bust point for the centre of rotation LM,

3. Select startpoint (1) LM,

4. Type in the shoulder difference ..... (think aboutwhether you need to rotate clockwise or counterclockwise)

5. Enter

1. Select Points 2 and 3 LM, RM

2. Select Point 4 as the centre of rotation LM

3. Select startpoint (2) LM

4. Type in the shoulder difference ..... (think aboutwhether you need to rotate clockwise or counterclockwise)

5. Enter

7Posture difference


The shoulder length has been adjusted.

Check the length with the DIM command!

Here you can see what has been removed fromthe shoulder seam to get the measured value.

If you choose a pattern with the dartin the side seam.

Cut the pattern along the red line asshown.

Rotate the cut piece to close theside dart and open up the shoulderdart, as shown in the figure



4.4 Cup size adjustmentCalculate the Cup size difference with the Posture_difference_measureform

When you have a cup size different from standard :1. You can change the bust dart in the pattern by following the rule: every 4 cm cup size

difference is a bout 1 cm ex tra da rt.(Example: The calculated Cup size difference is 8. This means 8:4 = 2 cm extra dart must be made into thepattern)

or2. You can make the fitting bodice and then determine the difference on the bodice itself.

Check if the bodice is gaping at the armscye front. When it is gaping, fold from bust point tothe armscye the fabric that is too much. Measure the folded fabric and note the amount of cm (Example: the folded fabric is 1.5 cm wide, this means that the dart must be made bigger with a rotation of1.5 cm).

Follow the steps below for the Adjustment:

Draw a cut line from bust point to armscye point (Use the line icon or the menu Draw/Line)

Cut the side part with the cut line.(Use the Cut icon of the menu Edit/Cut)

When you follow method nr. 1 above:

Select the rotate icon or Edit/Rotate and select thecut top part LM, RM

Select bust point (BP)as rotation point

Select the top point as Start point

Type in the distance of rotation ....... Enter When the value is positive, the rotation iscounterclockwise. When the value is negative, the rotation is clockwise.( Ex a m ple: clockw ise rota tion is va lue neg a tive= -2 cm)

9Posture difference


When you follow method nr. 2 above:

Select the rotate icon or Edit/Rotate andselect the cut top part LM, RM

Select bust point (BP)as rotation point LM

Select the armscye point as Start point LM

Type in the distance of rotation ....... Enter When the value is positive, the rotation iscounterclockwise. When the value is negative, the rotation isclockwise.( Ex a m ple: clockw ise rota tion is va lueneg a tive= -1.5 cm)

1. Top part is rotated

The top part is rotated (1)

Measure with the DIM icon the distance of the rotation in thearmscye (2), necessary for sleeve adjustment.

2. Measure distance

Join the two parts together again (3)(with the Join icon or Edit/Join)

The armscye is strange (4).

Point 3 has to be deleted to make it fluently (5).

Align the curve points 1 and 4 to point2 with Point/Align X (6)

3. Side parts are joined



4. Armscye is strange

5. Point 3 deleted

6. Curve points 1 and 4aligned at point 2

This m a y ha ve consequences for the sleeve! ! See nex t cha pter!

4.5 Sleeve adjustment

4.5.1 Sleeve adjustment with bigger bust dart

When you cut the armscye of the front part to get a bigger bust dart, it will influence the sleeve. The armscye at the front will be smaller, this means also some space has to be taken away fromthe sleeve cap front.After rotating de dart you have measured the distance with the <DIM> command, that has beentaken away from the armscye.

Measure the distance with the <DIM> commandthat has been rotated in the armscye before theparts are joined.

Draw a cut line from the sleeve point(S1) to theseam line of the sleeve (use Line icon or Draw/Line).

Cut the sleeve with the red cut line(use the Cuticon or Edit/Cut) .

11Posture difference


Rotate with the rotate icon or Edit/rotate the leftsleeve part inside. The rotation point is point RP.The start point is point S1 from the left part.The distance is the measured distanced frombefore .The rotation should be inside, whichmeans here clockwise (= minus: -1.5)

Join the two parts together with the Join icon orEdit/Join. The overlapping lines will disappear.

Delete point S2 to make the sleeve cap fluently!(Point/Delete point)

The sleeve cap front has become a little smallertherefore it fits the adjusted armscye again!

Measure the sleeve cap and the sleeve width andcompare it to the arm hole and arm width beforeyou cut it out of fabric !



4.5.2 Sleeve adjustment with separate Measure Tables

When you have to use use a separate Measure Table Front and Back because of a big Posturedifference and you had to adjust the side seam, then the method of sleeve adjustmentexplained in the chapter before can also be used here.The sleeve cap will better fit into the armscye.

The front sleeve part has to be rotated half a posture difference inside.The back sleeve part has to be rotated half a posture difference outside.Or vice versa when your armscye points are adjusted the other way around.

Draw a cut line from the sleeve point front (S1) to outside theseam line of the sleeve (use Line icon or Draw/Line).

Draw a cut line from the sleeve point back (S3) to outside theseam line of the sleeve (use Line icon or Draw/Line).

Cut the sleeve two times with the red cut lines(use the Cut iconor Edit/Cut) .

After the cutting delete the red cut lines with the Erase icon orEdit/Erase.

Rotate with the rotate icon or Edit/Rotate the left sleeve part. The rotation point is point R1.The start point is point S1 from the left part.The distance is half a posture difference. Whether the rotation is inside or outside depends on the valueof the posture difference. Clockwise is negative,counterclockwise is positive.The endpoint is S2

Rotate with the rotate icon or Edit/rotate the right sleeve part. The rotation point is point R2.The start point is point S3 from the right part.The distance is half a posture difference. Whether the rotation is inside or outside depends on the valueof the posture difference. Clockwise is negative,counterclockwise is positive.The endpoint is S4

13Posture difference


Join the two left parts together with the Join icon or edit/Join.The overlapping lines will disappear.

Draw a line from S3 to S4 using Snap Endpoint with the Line iconor Draw/Line.

Join the sleeve part of S3 to the line with the Join icon or edit/Join

Join the right sleeve part to the rest of the sleeve.The overlapping lines disappear.

Delete point S2 to make the front sleeve cap fluently withPoint/Delete point.

Delete point S4 to make the back sleeve cap fluently with Point/Delete point.

The sleeve cap front and back have changed(here the front issmaller and the back is wider) and therefore will fit theadjusted armscye again!

Measure the sleeve cap and the sleeve width and compare it tothe arm hole and arm width before you cut it out of fabric !



4.6 Fitting the bodiceOnce you have made all the adjustments to the pattern you can print it out and sew it together. Use a smooth cotton fabric. It can be an old piece of cloth, which is not good enough anymore touse in a real garment.

Do not use stretch fabric!!

Clip the seam allowance at the bust points and waistline.

Sew the fitting bodice together, but don’t sew in the sleeves just yet!

Highlight the bust points and waist line using a marker pen and sew an (old) zip in the centerback seam.

Iron the seams open and try it on.

Check the following points: 1. Does it fit closely? (not too loose and not too tight)

No? Re-measure and enter the revised values into the measurement table (fill in for instance2 cm wider or tightr). Don’t forget to check any resulting changes in the posture difference!

2. Are the bust points at the correct position? No? Measure the height bust again!

3. Is the waist line in place? No? Measure the waist height and back length again (think about the balance!)

4. Is the back width correct?No? Measure the back width again!

5. Is the width across the front correct?No? Change the back width, the armscye will shift further forward or backwards.

6. Is the shoulder width correct?No? Change the shoulder width (see the chapter on shoulder difference)

7. Is the shoulder seam at the right place?No? Measure the back length and waist height again and recheck the posture differencevalue.

8. Does the hemline of the bodice hang horizontally?No? Recheck the posture difference value.

Once the main body of the block/sloper is correct, you can start on the sleeves!

It is possible that your shoulder tip is tilted forwards or backwards. If so, then the sleeve mightnot hang correctly. If this is the case, then do the following steps:

Sew sleeve seams closed and press the seams open.

Now put the sleeve on your arm and bend it. Match the center of the sleeve cap withthe shoulder seam and see how it hangs.

Try pulling the sleeve a little to the front or to the back (1 - 1.5 cm) and see if it is better.

Once you are happy with the way it hangs, mark the new shoulder seam point with anotch on the bodice. You have to move the shoulder seam to this point;, this meansraising the back shoulder and lowering the front shoulder or v.v. You have to make thischange on your patterns.

15Calculations


5 CalculationsFor those of you who would like further information on the calculations, here is a list of allcalculations. You will need:

Measure form Leena V7.5

Standard size table You will find these both in the pdf file Leena_default_women in the menu Help\Manuals\Leena

5.1 Determine your Standard size

To be able to carry out any calculations, you should first determine your Standard size. 1. Measure your bust circumference2. Find your bust circumference in the table of standard sizes.3. Follow up this column and see the corresponding Standard size.

This is what all your calculations are based on.

Example:

Measured bust circumference : 106Standard size : 46

Enter your own size:Measured bust circumference :........................Standard size :........................

5.2 Determine shoulder difference

For a well shaped armscye, the shoulder length should always equal the value in the Standardsize Table

Example::

Your standard size is: 46For this size (column) the shoulder length is: 13.9 cm

Measured shoulder width : 13.0 cmStandard Shoulder Width : 13.9 cmShoulder Difference : 0.9 cm

Your own values:

Your standard size is: .......... cmFor this size (column) the shoulder length is: ........... cm

Your standard size : .............. cmStandard Shoulder Width : .............. cmShoulder Difference : .............. cm



5.3 Calculate posture differenceBased on your measurements in the measurement table and using the Excel spreadsheet youcan calculate whether there is a posture difference. However in this short section we explainhow we have calculated these values. For this, you need your own measurements, the table of standard sizes and the measurementform.

1. Take your measurements and enter the values in the “Measured” column. 2. From the Standard sizes table, find the standard size which is nearest to your bust size. 3. Use the corresponding Standard values for the waist height and back length.4. Calculate the difference between your own measurements and the standard values. 5. If this difference is less than 2 - 3 cm then you can modify your custom measurement table

as follows:

Example 1: Forward Leaning Posture

Measured Standard size Difference Correction Result

Bust Width 102 104

Waist Height 56 55 + 1 + 0.4 56.4

Back length 43.5 41.7 + 1.8 - 0.4 43.1

Difference 12.5 13.3 - 0.8 0.8 13.3

: 2= 0.4 The differencemust increase

Example 2: Backward Leaning Posture

Measured Standard size Difference Correction Result

Bust Width 93 92

Waist Height 53 52.6 + 0.4 - 0.75 52.25

Back length 40 41.1 - 1.1 + 0.75 40.75

Difference 13 11.5 1.5 - 1.5 11.5

:2=0.75 The differencemust decrease

Make a table as in the examples above. Use the green numbers from the calculations in your custom measurement table. With thesevalues, your pattern will be balanced. The red shoulder length in the “Result” column must be equal to the value in the “StandardValue” column.

If your posture difference is more than 3 cm, then you can't use this method. In this case, youneed to use two custom measurement tables, one for the front and one for the back. See thesection on Patterns with separate front and back measurement tables.

17Calculations


5.4 Determining your cupsize differenceIt may be that your back width is not in proportion to your overall bust circumference.Suppose your bust size corresponds to a size 42 and your back width also corresponds to a size42. Then there is no Cup size difference. But if the bust size corresponds to a size 42 and the back width corresponds to a size 36, thenthere is cup size difference. Clearly, the discrepancy arises because of the size of the front; this usually means that the cupsize is larger than that which corresponds to the Standard size. We can pre-compute it or find it when fitting the fitting bodice.

Example: Suppose your back width measurement corresponds to a standard dress size 46. The bust size for a standard size 46 is 104 cm.Find the difference between the actual measured bust size and this standard value (given in theExcel spreadsheet) 106-104 = 2 If the difference is < 4 cm, then there is almost no cup size difference (size difference is 1) If the difference is > 4 cm, then follow the steps in the section on Cup size Difference

Standard size : ........... Bust circumference of size : ............. cmBack width : ............. cmSize for Backwidth : ............. Bust circumference of backwidth size : .............cm (search the bust circumference wich belongsto that size)

Standard size bust circumference : ............. cm Standard size backwidth : ............. cmDifference : ............. cm

If the difference is less than 4, then you do not need to do anything. If the difference is greater than 4, follow the steps in the section on Cupsize Difference.

5.5 Measurement table Front

Example: Your standard size = 46Your measured waist height = 56 Standard waist height = 55 Actual waist height is greater than the standard waist height = + 1 cm Increase the Standard back length by 1 cm: = 41.7 + 1 = 42.7 cm Use the red numbers in your Measurement table Front

Your own sizes: Your standard size = ................. Your measured waist height = .......... cmStandard waist height = .................. Actual waist height is greater / less than the standard waist height = .............. Increase/Decrease the Standard back length by ............cm : = ??.........+/-??........=?? .......... cm Use the red numbers in your Measurement table Front



5.6 Measurement table Back

Example: Your standard size = 46Your measured back length = 46 Standard Back length = 43 Actual back length is greater than the standard back length = +: 3 cm Increase the standard waist height by 3 cm: = 55 + 3 = 58 cm Use the red numbers in your Measurement table Back

Your own sizes: Your standard size = .......... Your measured back length = .............. cmStandard Back length = .............. cmActual back length is greater than the standard back length by ............ Increase/Decrease the standard waist height by ...... cm = ??..........+/-??..........=?? .............. cm Use the red numbers in your Measurement table Back

Published by:

Apparel Systems - AlmerePattern Made 4 You - Woerden

Many thanks to Thea Botter.

03/2013

Posture difference - Welcome to PatternMaker POSTURE DIFFERENCE Information about balance, posture...

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