Pomes, Nuts and Berries, Oh My!
description
Transcript of Pomes, Nuts and Berries, Oh My!
Pomes, Nuts and Berries, Oh My!September 17, 2013
The Morton ArboretumCommunity Trees ProgramAndrea DierichPresentation was made possible by the Illinois Extension Service
Step 1: Determining if Fruit Trees Are Right for You
Maintenance Level:
- Low (water, weed & mulch)
-Medium (some pruning and pest management)
-High (pruning and dedicated pest management)
Species that Fit Your Style
Low: figs, mulberry, most nut trees, paw-paw, persimmon, serviceberry
Medium: tart cherries, pears, plums
High: apples peaches, some pears
General Information
-Winter is a limiting factor in growing some fruit
-Bare-root or container recommended for planting
-Best planted when small
-Dedicated fall and spring care
Other Considerations & Determining Factors
•Space•Sunlight•Soil•Moisture & Drainage•Pollination•Pests & Diseases
Site Selection-full sun (8-10 hours)
Site Selection-fertile, well drained soil
Site Selection-good air drainage
Site Selection-protection from summer wind
Soil TypeSlightly Acidic - Neutral• Paw-Paws• Serviceberries • Persimmon• Pears• Cherries• Hazelnut
Neutral – Alkaline• Apples• Pecans• Walnut• Chinese Chestnuts
Planting
Time: spring, usually around April
Spacing: varies depending on the species and effect desired
Handling bare-root stock: keep roots damp plant as soon as possible root prune with care
Planting
Proper planting: • dig large enough hole• spread roots, cut off bad ones• plant at proper depth*• keep soil moist• do not fertilize for the first year!
Remove at planting time:
-dead limbs
-weak limbs
-crossing limbs
-water sprouts
-root suckers
Planting
Planting
Trees on seedling rootstock: plant 2 inches deeper than they were planted in the nursery (for stability)
Trees on dwarfing rootstock: graft or bud union should be about 3” above the soil level
Tree Size
Standard (grafted on seedling rootstock) -full size, large trees*Nut trees generally are standard size.*
Semi-Dwarf and Dwarf-variable in size-ask about the mature height
Purchasing Tree StockHomework into nurseries and suitable tree
species will be required.
- Buy container or bare-root- Ensure immediate planting or care will be
available when stock arrives- If container tree remove top layer of soil
until first root is visible- May species will require at least a second
tree to be purchased…
Fruitfulness/PollinationSelf-pollination vs. Cross Pollination
Fruitfulness/Pollination
Self-fruitful:
• Peach•Tart Cherries • Hazelnuts
Self- unfruitful:• Most apples• Pears• Paw-Paws• Japanese plum• Chinese chestnuts
Fruitfulness/Pollination
Partially Self-fruitful:
• Apricots• European plums• Walnut• Pecan
Young TreesHelp a tree to establish and strengthen
before fruit production!
Mulch soilAdequate waterLimb trainPruneFertilize in the late summer (2nd yr)
Care of Young (Non-bearing)Trees
Prevent premature bearing:
-remove all fruit the first 2 seasons
-after that allow light to moderate crops
-do not allow a heavy fruit load on centralleader
Branch spreading in a young tree using toothpicks.
Branch spreading in a older tree using wood stakes.
Well trained trees!
Care of Young (Non-bearing)Trees
Bringing young trees into bearing -reduce N fertilization -tie or spread branches
Pest Control•Organic deterrent (1 part Tabasco – 5 parts
H2O)•Bordeaux mixture•Stem wrapping + hardwire
Bearing Trees: Spring Care
Fertilize properly: -early spring at bud-swell -start 1’ out from trunk and go to drip-line
Spring pruningAid pollination if needed (paw-paw)Protect buds and immature fruit from fungal and tissue diseases.
Bearing Trees: Fall Care
•Sanitation!!!!!! Remove all debris; including leaf litter, and fruit.
•Water, water, water•Mulch•Identify branches to prune in the late
winter•Wrap bark of young trees
Bearing Trees ‘Winter’ injury
Fluctuating day/night temperatures
frost cracking
Spring frostcover tree to the ground
Bearing Trees: Fruit Thinning
Why do it?
Excess fruit will
-reduce fruit size
-retard development of next year’s buds
-increase risk of branch breakage
Bearing Trees: Fruit ThinningWhen to do it? -Late May, early June
How? -nature (June drop)
-by hand-a little shake
Consider the spacing between fruit as well!
Why Prune?
1. Improve quality and size of fruit
2. Develop a strong tree
3. Facilitate culture and harvest
4. Manage size and shape of the tree
Pruning Fruit Trees: Training Systems
Open Center commonly used for stone fruit trees
Central Leader commonly used for apples, pears, cherries and some plums
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
-single trunk, 18-30 inches high
-2, 3 or 4 scaffold branches, all closetogether near top of tree
-crotch angles 40-90 degrees
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
-one main trunk, 5-8 feet tall
-lowest branch 18-22 inches from ground (not on SW side)
-5-12 scaffolds, spaced 4-8 inches apart vertically on trunk; or clustered 18-24 inches apart (upper ones shorter)
-crotch angles 40-90 degrees
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
Thank you!Andrea [email protected]