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    http://www.instructables.com/id/%5bVideo%5d-Mixing-Polyester-Resin/

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    [Video] Mixing Polyester Resinby trebuchet03 on March 24, 2007

    Table of Contents

    [Video] Mixing Polyester Resin ....................................................................................................

    Intro: [Video] Mixing Polyester Resin ............................................................................................

    Step 1: What is it? ..........................................................................................................

    Step 2: Where to get it? ......................................................................................................

    Step 3: Mixing - No Fillers ....................................................................................................

    Step 4: Mixing - With Fillers ...................................................................................................

    Related Instructables ........................................................................................................

    Comments ................................................................................................................

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    http://www.instructables.com/id/%5bVideo%5d-Mixing-Polyester-Resin/

    Author:trebuchet03 author's website

    I'm an Engineer in San Francisco. Mass producer. Former Intern. Rapid Prototyper. Sometimes, I post Instructables. My Favorite number: 42

    I've been here for a long time - some say, too long. I interned with instructables a few years ago and am now a happy office neighbor of the omnipotentRobot.

    eMail: trebuchet03 ~[at]~ gmail.com

    Intro: [Video] Mixing Polyester ResinResin mixing is an important part of composite manufacturing. Here's how to do it safely and with an acceptable margin of accuracy.

    WARNING - THESE INSTRUCTIONS INVOLVE THE USE OF METHYL ETHYL KEYTONE PEROXIDE (MEK-P), A CORROSIVE COMPOUND THAT IS MILDLY"EXPLOSIVE." GLOVES ARE A MUST AROUND THESE COMPOUNDS AS THEY WILL ATTACK ORGANIC LIFE FORMS - THAT MEANS YOU, YOU MEATPERSON!

    IF YOUR SKIN IS SPLASHED, IMMEDIATELY WASH WITH SOAP AND WATER - DO NO DILUTE WITH ACETONE. SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IF YOU HAVSEVERE REACTION OR DEVELOP A FEVER.

    FIRE ADVISORY - POLYESTER RESIN IS FLAMMABLE. DO NOT SMOKE OR HAVE AN OPEN FLAME NEAR YOUR WORKING OR STORAGE AREA. DO NOLEAVE CATALYZED RESIN UNATTENDED WHEN IN SIGNIFICANT QUANTITIES AS THERE IS A POSSIBILITY OF SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION. SHOULDYOU HAVE A FIRE EMERGENCY, SMOTHER THE FLAME.

    The following video is long, but full of tips, tricks and advice for working with resin for layup.

    GlossaryMEKP - Methyl Ethyl Keytone Peroxide - polyester resin catalyst (hardener)PVA - Polyvinyl Alcohol (film mold release)Cabosil - the white silica filler being mixed in (trade name - aka Aerosil)Tool - negative mold used to make parts

    Micro Balloons - air filler encapsulated in silica glass (creates a lattice matrix structure in resin)Gelcoat - provides a high quality finish to composite tool surfaceComposite - material made from two or more substances (in this case fiber glass and resin)Mat - Reference to chopped fiberglass in a sheet form; tearable by hand with strands about 1.5" longExotherm - reference to the heat generated/required by the resin to curePot - Catalyzed batch of resinPot Life - Working/usable life of pot. After this time, the chemical reactions between catalyst and resin "take off"

    Image Notes1. Plug2. Epoxy Type Resin

    http://www.instructables.com/id/%5bVideo%5d-Mixing-Polyester-Resin/http://www.primitiveengineering.com/pauljehlenhttp://member/trebuchet03/http://member/trebuchet03/
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    3. Pots - really, too many of them - they can be re-used if you let the resin cure.Then squeeze and the cured resin peels and pops out.4. Brushes5. Cabosil - Aerosil6. Paint Rollers7. Depressors8. MEKP9. Epoxy Hardener10. Stand11. PVA12. Paste Wax13. Plug Cutouts14. Polyester Resin

    Step 1:What is it?Polyester resin is a synthetic resin (that is, it starts off as a fluid and hardens). Polyester resin is one of the more common forms of resins - epoxy resin being another vcommon form. When it comes to the marine industry, polyester resin is the most common as it is more rigid than it's epoxy counterpart. Keep in mind, the trade off for higher stiffness is that it is more brittle.

    In its viscous form, polyester resin is flammable and a skin irritant - something we expect from a styrene based fluid. Manufactures mix their own blend of cobalt and oconditioner additives to help the curing process - however, Methyl Ethyl Keytone Peroxide is used as a catalyst.

    Polyester resin is very common in tooling - that is, making molds (typically negative molds) that will be used to make a product. A major reason for this is, again, it'srigidity.

    Finally, polyester resins are compatible with any type of fiberglass, fibrous carbon, Kevlar and urethane type foams (NOT styrene type foams). While the resin itself iscompatible, the catalyst may not be (especially with foams). A test sample is always recommended before tooling.

    Step 2:Where to get it?Almost any marine supplier will carry it. As well as several other online suppliers. I have used a company called US Composites. As my experience with them has beeexcellent, I will return the service with a link to their product.

    US Composites

    Step 3:Mixing - No FillersMixing without a filler or additive is actually quite easy. Simple measure off the amount needed and, when you're ready, add your MEASURED catalyst. Then mixthroughly.

    Here's a tip: Resin curing is an exothermic reaction - that is, the resin cures when it gets warm/hot. This heat comes from the aforementioned conditioners reacting wityour catalyst. So, vigorous mixing is not necessarily recommended as the additional heat will reduce your pot time - this goes double for thickened resins.

    Here's Another Tip: Pouring Resin from large 5 gallon jugs is a pain in the butt. Unless you know how! Those spout tops are positioned such that if you tip it on it's sidwith the top at the higher side, the resin will just barely reach that level. Then, roll the can to pour resin. See video for an example.

    http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html
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    Image Notes1. I did say polyester resin was flammable ;)2. MEK-P in an easy to use bottle -- squeeze and the fluid travels into a graduatecup.

    Step 4:Mixing - With FillersSometimes, it is beneficial to add a filler/thickening agent. Types of thickening agents and their uses are beyond the scope of this instructable - but in general, mixing

    them into your resin is the same process.

    1. Measure out how much resin you need.2. Add a small amount of filler3. Mix in well4. Repeat steps 2-4 until the desired amount has been added OR until you reach your desired viscosity5. Add a measured amount of catalyst (as per the resin requirements).

    Remember, adding fillers can increase the amount of heat generated due to the internal friction of the resin mixture - be aware of this as it may play a role in your pot l(how long it takes before the resin starts heating up/curing).

    Image Notes

    1. Here we're mixing Cabosil, a silica based thickening agent.

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    Comments

    8 comments Add Comment

    dawgz031 says: Jan 12, 2010. 9:09 AM REPcan i replace hardener with some superglue??? and a catalyst?i really cant find a hardener near my place......

    hay_jumper says: Apr 2, 2007. 6:01 PM REPThis is informative and I like that you added warnings about the materials. However, I'm a little alarmed that nothing was said about safety when working wCabosil. This stuff is very light and gets into the air very easily. Then it gets into your lungs and will eventually kill you by way of silicosis. When I use thisstuff I have a filtered vent hood for mixing and wear a particulate filter respirator throughout the process. All you have to do is open the can to see some of

    float away. Even if you don't inhale it directly, it will settle as "dust" onto surfaces in your work space and when you clean or sweep will get reintroduced intthe air. That ring around the bucket on the floor caused me to shiver. It's probably not a big deal if you only use this stuff very rarely, but if you are usingCabosil in large batches often, you will do well to protect yourself. Your lungs will thanks you.

    stasterisk says: May 6, 2008. 9:14 PM REPWhat do you make?

    trebuchet03 says: Apr 2, 2007. 11:56 PM REPYou're absolutely right -- the MEKP kinda trumped that warning. While there has been no direct link to cancer/silicosis - I surely don't want to be the tesmonkey to prove that wrong....

    Health Safety- Cab-O-SilCabot's Testing Documentation - PDF

    The fourth video (soon to be released) will show mixing being done in a spray booth with the vent on. We weren't too concerned as our exposure to the

    dry powder was less than 20 minutes every time we mixed and we vacuumed frequently to prevent the mess from getting too out of hand -- if the vacfilter can't handle the silica - dust masks have no chance :P

    piper1234 says: Oct 22, 2007. 4:22 PM REP; ) tip my hat , many useful information, thanks a lot

    royalestel says: Mar 30, 2007. 2:52 PM REPWhat? You haven't sold out to metacafe yet? :)

    trebuchet03 says: Mar 30, 2007. 4:26 PM REPMetacafe appears not to support files greater than 100megs :P Overall, I like Google and their practices. Everyone is responsible for their own code, thbasic business ideals stick to what I think are honest and every six months - you'll have some sort of web application breath trough (even if it's just agreat feature that's now free VIA Google :P).

    cheeze69 says: Mar 29, 2007. 9:10 PM REPVery nice - thanks for taking the time to document and link the source/etc. I've always had uses for stuff like this, but just never found it easily.

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