Point Paper and Weave FloatPoint Paper and Weave Float

Dr. Jimmy LamDr. Jimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning ObjectivesLearning Objectives

Weave layout and point paperWeave layout and point paper Effect of weave floatEffect of weave float Which weaves make strongest fabric?Which weaves make strongest fabric?

Weave layout (1)Weave layout (1) Weave layout is to show the up and down movement of Weave layout is to show the up and down movement of

warp/weft yarns to make a woven fabric.warp/weft yarns to make a woven fabric. Graph paper (point paper) is used to show the order in Graph paper (point paper) is used to show the order in

which the yarns interlace in a fabric. (Plain or twill or which the yarns interlace in a fabric. (Plain or twill or satin weave)satin weave)

It is used by textile designers to portray their designs. It It is used by textile designers to portray their designs. It is used by textile technicians to analysis fabric weave.is used by textile technicians to analysis fabric weave.

Each vertical row of squares represents a warp yarn and Each vertical row of squares represents a warp yarn and each horizontal row of squares represents a weft yarn.each horizontal row of squares represents a weft yarn.

A warp yarn crossing over a weft yarn is shown by A warp yarn crossing over a weft yarn is shown by marking in the square.marking in the square.

Example of ¼ satin weave on point paper

Warp /weft yarninteralcing

Point Paper notation

Warp yarn up Shown as black square

Weft upShown asWhite square

Weave layout (2)Weave layout (2) A blank square is used to show the weft yarn passing A blank square is used to show the weft yarn passing

over the warp.over the warp. The weave diagram, however, does not show the The weave diagram, however, does not show the

relative yarns per inch or are the yarn size and type relative yarns per inch or are the yarn size and type used.used.

To illustrate the fabric weave on point paper, every To illustrate the fabric weave on point paper, every interlacing in one repeat must be examined to interlacing in one repeat must be examined to determine the warp or weft is the surface yarn.determine the warp or weft is the surface yarn.

Weave FloatWeave Float

Weave float (1)Weave float (1) Warp yarns and weft yarns in a fabric interlace with each other.Warp yarns and weft yarns in a fabric interlace with each other. When one yarn does not interlace with the next adjacent yarn, When one yarn does not interlace with the next adjacent yarn,

but passes over two or more adjacent yarns, it is said to be float.but passes over two or more adjacent yarns, it is said to be float. If the yarn passes over two yarns and then interlaces with third If the yarn passes over two yarns and then interlaces with third

yarn, it is said to be float of two.yarn, it is said to be float of two. A float of four, would refer to a yarn which passed over four A float of four, would refer to a yarn which passed over four

yarns and then interlaced with the fifth yarn.yarns and then interlaced with the fifth yarn. If a warp yarn passes over two or more adjacent weft yarns, a If a warp yarn passes over two or more adjacent weft yarns, a

warp float results. When the weft yarn passes over the warp warp float results. When the weft yarn passes over the warp yarns, weft float occurs.yarns, weft float occurs.

Weave float (2)Weave float (2) If the float is relatively long, a snagging problem results.If the float is relatively long, a snagging problem results. The yarn can easily catch and break on broken fingernail or The yarn can easily catch and break on broken fingernail or

rough surface.rough surface. Floats also weaken the fabric since they reduce the frequency Floats also weaken the fabric since they reduce the frequency

with which yarns pass from one side of fabric to the other.with which yarns pass from one side of fabric to the other. This can be offset by increasing the yarns per inch of the fabric.This can be offset by increasing the yarns per inch of the fabric. Floats tend to make the fabric surface flat and increase the Floats tend to make the fabric surface flat and increase the

amount of lustre. amount of lustre. They also enable yarns to slide under each other in the fabric They also enable yarns to slide under each other in the fabric

and are, therefore, used when fabrics of higher yarns per inch and are, therefore, used when fabrics of higher yarns per inch are to be made.are to be made.

DiscussionDiscussion

How to represent the fabric design on point How to represent the fabric design on point paper?paper?

What are the limitations of point paper?What are the limitations of point paper? Explain how float weave will reduce the fabric Explain how float weave will reduce the fabric

strength?strength? Why a float weave would allow more Why a float weave would allow more

ends/picks per inch on a fabric?ends/picks per inch on a fabric?

What weave makes the strongest What weave makes the strongest fabric?fabric?

Weave and Fabric Strength (1)Weave and Fabric Strength (1)

Usually, the plain weave will provide the strongest Usually, the plain weave will provide the strongest fabric (highest breaking strength).fabric (highest breaking strength).

The reason is that more yarn interlacings provide for The reason is that more yarn interlacings provide for higher fabric strength (more frictional force between higher fabric strength (more frictional force between each yarn).each yarn).

All other weaves (twill or satin) have floats which All other weaves (twill or satin) have floats which reduce the number of interalcings.reduce the number of interalcings.

Apart from weave design, fabric density (ends or picks Apart from weave design, fabric density (ends or picks per inch) would affect fabric strength.per inch) would affect fabric strength.

Weave and Fabric Stength (2)Weave and Fabric Stength (2)

If the number of yarns per inch of one fabric is higher If the number of yarns per inch of one fabric is higher than that of a comparable fabric, then the fabric with than that of a comparable fabric, then the fabric with more yarns per inch in the indicated direction would be more yarns per inch in the indicated direction would be stronger.stronger.

The higher yarns per inch will more than offset the loss The higher yarns per inch will more than offset the loss of strength from a weave having fewer interlacings.of strength from a weave having fewer interlacings.

Weave with floats can produce fabric with more yarns Weave with floats can produce fabric with more yarns per inch.per inch.

Weave structure (plain or twill) affects The yarns per inch of a fabric

Plain structure, only SIX

ends per unit

2/2 twill, however, up to EIGHT ends per unit

As more yarns per unit in twill structure, twill weave is stronger than plain weave

Weave and Fabric Stength (3)Weave and Fabric Stength (3)

Weaves with long floats can produce the strongest fabric Weaves with long floats can produce the strongest fabric because these fabrics can be made with the most yarns per inch.because these fabrics can be made with the most yarns per inch.

With long floats, yarn can slide under one another, and bunch With long floats, yarn can slide under one another, and bunch together.together.

This cannot occur with a plain weave, since with every other This cannot occur with a plain weave, since with every other yarn interlacing, the yarns are positioned side by side. They yarn interlacing, the yarns are positioned side by side. They cannot bunch together.cannot bunch together.

Thus, satin weave fabric can be made with most yarns per inch Thus, satin weave fabric can be made with most yarns per inch (longest float) and so can be made stronger than twill weaves (longest float) and so can be made stronger than twill weaves (shorter float).(shorter float).

For the same reason twill weave fabrics can be made stronger For the same reason twill weave fabrics can be made stronger than plain weave fabrics.than plain weave fabrics.

DiscussionDiscussion

What is the relationship of fabric density What is the relationship of fabric density (ends/picks per inch) to fabric strength?(ends/picks per inch) to fabric strength?

Why a long float design would make a higher Why a long float design would make a higher fabric density?fabric density?

Explain why fabric strength of satin is stronger Explain why fabric strength of satin is stronger than twill and why plain is the weakest amongst than twill and why plain is the weakest amongst all of them, assuming they use the same yarn all of them, assuming they use the same yarn count and yarn type.count and yarn type.