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Putting a square edge on a boardis the first thing most woodwork-

ers think of when using a jointer.

But there’s another job it does that

I think is even more important —flattening the face of a board.

Actually, it’s the first thing I

do with lumber that comes into

my shop. The process I use isn’tcomplicated and only takes a

few minutes. But by following

these steps, you’ll establish a flat

reference face for cutting parts to

size, getting square edges, and cut-

ting accurate joinery.

THE BASIC TECHNIQUE

You can get a good idea of the tech-

nique in the drawing and detail

below. But there are a few points

that deserve some mention.Grain Direction. First, you

want to pay attention to the grain

direction of the board. To prevent

Want accurate joinery, flatter panels, and easierassemblies? It all starts with this simple technique.

flat stock

on the Jointer

HANDS-ONTechnique

PUSH FORWARDWITH RIGHT HAND

PUSH

PAD

USE FENCE TO

KEEP WORKPIECE

MOVING STRAIGHT

PUSH DOWN

WITH LEFT HAND

BASIC

FACE

JOINTING

USE HAND-OVER-HAND

MOTION TO FEED WORKPIECEKEEP

PRESSURE

OVER

OUTFEED

TABLE GRAIN SLOPES

AWAY FROM KNIVES

a.

tearout, the grain on the edge of the board should run up and away

from the jointer table. You can see

this in detail ‘a.’ A second way to

avoid tearout is to take light cuts(about 1 ⁄ 32" - 1 ⁄ 16").

Pressure. Then, as you move

the board across the cutterhead,

you want to concentrate pressureon the outfeed table with your left

hand. Your right hand only serves

to push the workpiece forward.Problems. This basic technique

works great on relatively flat

boards. But as you look over a

board before jointing, you’re likelyto see one or more problems.

The board might be cupped,

bowed, or twisted. To tackle these

issues, you’ll need to make some

adjustments to the technique. Youcan also make things easier by

reading the box on the next page.

CUPPED BOARDS

One of the problems you’ll find

is a board that’s cupped across its

width. This is the simplest prob-

lem to take care of.For starters, joint the work-

piece with the cup facing down,

as shown in the photo above.

www.ShopNotes.com of 3 © August Home Publishing Company



If a long, wide board has a lot of cup or

bow in it, you could spend a bit of time

— and waste a lot of wood — trying toflatten the face. To save both time and

material, it’s a better idea to break down

boards into smaller blanks. You can see

how this works in the drawings here.Cup. In the case of cupped boards, rip-

ping the board into narrower pieces can

almost eliminate the curve. And you’ll

end up with thicker stock, too. I find it’sa good idea to rip cupped boards at the

band saw to avoid a possible kickback

situation at the table saw.

Bow. The lower drawing shows how

much material you’d need to joint andplane away before getting a long board

that’s perfectly flat. Here again, by cross-

cutting it into shorter lengths, you can end

up saving more of the original thickness.

RIPPING CUPPED BOARDS TO ROUGH SIZERESULTS IN A REDUCTION OF WASTE

CUPPED BOARD (END VIEW)

BOWED BOARD (SIDE VIEW)

CUTTING LONG BOARDS SHORTER WILL YIELD THICKER PIECES AFTER JOINTING

cut parts to size:

Reduce Waste

workpiece are in contact with the jointer tables at the start of the cut.The key here is applying pres-

sure only at the corners (right

drawing). Steady progress will bring the other corners and more

surface area into contact with the

jointer. At this point, I usually find

that the board is either cupped or bowed as well. So you’ll need to

take the steps I mentioned earlier.

The ultimate reward for your

efforts is a smooth, flat face. Buteven more importantly, it puts you

on the right path to projects that fit

and look better.

BOWED

BOARD

JOINT WITH HOLLOW SIDE DOWN

APPLY DOWNWARD FORCE

ON ENDS

CHAMFER

BOWEDBOARD

TWISTED

BOARD

APPLY DOWNWARD FORCE

ON CORNERS TOUCHING

JOINTER TABLE

TWISTEDBOARD

JOINTER CUTS ON

OPPOSITE EDGES

a.

JOINTER

KNIFE

INFEED

TABLE

CHAMFER

OUTFEED

TABLE

WORKPIECE

a.

The edges give the board a solidstance. Then, as you joint the face,apply just enough pressure to keep

the board moving. Too much pres-

sure can press the cup flat. Whenyou let go, it will spring back and

you’ll still have a cupped board.

BOWED BOARDS

Another common problem you’llfind is a board that’s curved along

its length. This is called bow.

Like a cupped board, you want

to work with the hollow side down.But getting a flat face here requires

a slightly different approach.Pressure on the End. The idea

is to remove material only at theends where the board is touching

the jointer, as shown in the left

drawing above. It’s even easier inthis situation to press the board flat

as you move it across the jointer.

So it’s important to only apply

pressure on the ends.

Starter Chamfer. Sometimesa bowed board will catch on the

outfeed table at the start of the cut.

To prevent this, I make a shallowchamfer on the leading edge as

shown in the left drawing above.

TWISTED BOARDS

Twist is another problem you mayfind with lumber. And it seems

like the most challenging to deal

with since only two corners of the

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