PLAN YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND VIETNAM - Lonely -...

12
PLAN YOUR TRIP Welcome to Vietnam...... 2 20 Top Experiences ....... 6 Need to Know ................. 18 What’s New ..................... 20 If You Like... ..................... 21 Month by Month ............. 23 Itineraries ........................ 26 Vietnam Outdoors ......... 30 Regions at a Glance ....... 36 YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip UNDERSTAND VIETNAM Vietnam Today................ 426 History ............................. 429 People & Culture ............ 447 Hill Tribes of Vietnam..... 457 Architecture in Vietnam ........................... 467 Regional Specialities...... 477 Food & Drink ................... 485 Environment ................... 492 and the key sectors of oil production, shi building, c er are overnment controlled belief systems (% of population) 9.4 Cao Dai 0.4 Other Buddhist 37.4 Catholic 20.7 Protestant 31.9 86 would be Kinh (V 3 would be Thai and 2 would be Tay 2 would be Khmer K 1 would be Hoa (ethn 6 would be others if Vietna 100 peop 1976 The Socialist Republic of Vietnam is proclaimed as Saigon is re-named Ho Chi Minh City. Hundreds of housands Áee abroad, including many boat people. have been searching for their own MIAs in Other Foreign Involvemen Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, the P sent military personnel to South Vietnam a »Ho Chi Minh portrait in the central post oce, H ÀÁscams), but little real danger – on the whole it’s a safe, wonderfully rewarding and incredibly varied country to explore. A Cultural Smorgasbord This is a country of myriad inÁuences and reference points. In the south, Indian and Hindu culture had a lasting inÁuence in the Cham temples and spicy regional cui- sine, spiked with chilli and tempered with coconut. Head north and Chinese con- nections are far more apparent. Between these two competing cultures, you’ll Ànd a quintessential Vietnam in the central provinces: the graceful historic old port of Hoi An, and the royal tombs, pagodas and imperial cuisine of Hue. Oh, and there’s Welcome to Vietnam All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET PAGE 2 PAGE 425 GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see ice of the Vietnam e peaks e-flat river e-riddled ntral ainforest er with some oductive rice- at’s just the hern half ces a much cuisine, of the you head more of a nut trees o plants and y sauce on n provinces and sticky, , aromatic Hanoi Food 333 History 33 Culture 33 Food Discover – meal by tasty meal – that Hanoi is one of the planet’s great food cities. Dine in restored colonial villas or contemporary ca- fes, or pull up a stool and chow down on street food classics like pho bo (beef noodle soup) or bun cha (barbecued pork and rice vermicelli). History Explore the centuries-old commercial labyrinth of the Old Quarter, before mov- ing on to understand the tumultuous events of the 20th century, recounted in fascinating detail at Hanoi’s excellent museums. Culture There’s a lot more to Hanoi’s l l h b l ce Need to Know Currency »Dong (d) Language »Vietnamese High Season (Jul–Aug) »Prices increase by up to 50% by the coast; book hotels well in advance. »All Vietnam, except the far north, is hot and humid with the Shoulder (Dec–Mar) »During the Tet festival, the whole country is on the move and prices rise. »North of Nha Trang can get cool weather. Expect cold conditions Low Season (Apr–Jun, Sep–Nov) »Perhaps the best time to tour the whole nation. »Typhoons can lash the central and northern coastline When to Go Danang GOMar-Sep Sapa GOMar-May & Sep-Nov Hanoi GOMar-May & Sep-Nov Ho Chi Minh City GONov-Feb Warm to hot summers, mild winters Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons Set Your Budget Budget less than US$40 »Cheap hotel: US$10– 15 a night, dorms less »Eat in local, not Western-style places »Get a taste for bia hoi »Can survive on as little as US$15 a day Midrange US$40– 100 »Comfortable double room: US$20–50 »Eat and drink almost anywhere »Indulge in the odd spa treatment »Travel by taxi when necessary Top End over US$100 »Luxury hotel room: from US$70 »Shop in smart boutiques 8 Hue Festival, June (bien Wandering Souls Day, A Danang Fireworks Fest April Buddhas Birth, Enlightenment and Dea by Month Major religious festivals in Vietnam have lunar dates; check against any Vietnamese calendar for the Gregorian dates. If you know when Tet kicks oՖ, simply count from there. Special prayers are held at Vietnamese and Chinese pagodas when the moon is full or a thin sliver. Many Buddhists eat only vegetar- ian food on these days, which according to the Chinese lunar calendar, fall on the 14th and 15th days of the month and from the last day of the month to the Àrst day of the next month. town involved. Increasingly it’s become an international event, with music and fashion shows and a wine festival. February North of Danang, chilly ‘Chinese winds’ usually mean grey, overcast conditions. Conversely, sunny hot days are the norm in the southern provinces. z Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan) The Big One! Falling in late z Buon Ma Coffee Fe CaՖeine cravers sho make for the Centr lands during March Buon Ma Thuot pla to an annual coՖee Growers, grinders, and addicts rub sho in the city’s main p and local entertain provided. 2 Saigon Cy Race On your marks…get dling. Ho Chi Minh fastest rickshaw dri battle it out in their wheeled chariots to ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Transcript of PLAN YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND VIETNAM - Lonely -...

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Vietnam...... 220 Top Experiences ....... 6Need to Know ................. 18What’s New ..................... 20If You Like... ..................... 21Month by Month ............. 23Itineraries ........................ 26Vietnam Outdoors ......... 30Regions at a Glance ....... 36

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND VIETNAM

Vietnam Today................ 426History ............................. 429People & Culture ............ 447Hill Tribes of Vietnam ..... 457Architecture in Vietnam ........................... 467Regional Specialities...... 477Food & Drink ................... 485Environment ................... 492

and the key sectors of oil production, shi building, cer are overnment controlled

belief systems(% of population)

9.4Cao Dai

0.4Other

Buddhist

37.4

Catholic

20.7

Protestant

31.9

86 would be Kinh (V3 would be Thai and 2 would be Tay2 would be Khmer K1 would be Hoa (ethn6 would be others

if Vietna100 peop

1976The Socialist Republic

of Vietnam is proclaimed as Saigon

is re-named Ho Chi Minh City. Hundreds of housands ee abroad,

including many boat people.

have been searching for their own MIAs in

Other Foreign Involvemen Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, the Psent military personnel to South Vietnam a

» Ho Chi Minh portrait in the central post o ce, H

The Vietnamese Experience Vietnam is a nation going places. Fast. Its people are energetic, direct, sharp in com-merce and resilient by nature. This is an outrageously fun country to explore, the locals love a laugh (and a drink) and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to socialise with them and hear their tales. The Ameri-can War is over, and yet its impact endures – you’ll nd reminders of that cataclysmic con ict everywhere you travel. That said, the country was never broken and emerged with its pride intact. Poor in parts but never squalid, Vietnam is developing at an astonishing pace. For travellers, there are issues to consider (including minor

scams), but little real danger – on the whole it’s a safe, wonderfully rewarding and incredibly varied country to explore.

A Cultural Smorgasbord This is a country of myriad in uences and reference points. In the south, Indian and Hindu culture had a lasting in uence in the Cham temples and spicy regional cui-sine, spiked with chilli and tempered with coconut. Head north and Chinese con-nections are far more apparent. Between these two competing cultures, you’ll nd a quintessential Vietnam in the central provinces: the graceful historic old port of Hoi An, and the royal tombs, pagodas and imperial cuisine of Hue. Oh, and there’s

Blessed with a ravishing coastline, emerald-green mountains, breathtaking national parks, dynamic cities, outstanding cultural interest and one of the world’s best cuisines, Vietnam has it all.

Welcome toVietnam

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

425GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

ice of the Vietnam e peaks

e-flat river e-riddled ntral

ainforest er with some oductive rice-

at’s just the

hern half ces a much cuisine, of the

you head more of a

nut trees o plants and y sauce on n provinces and sticky, , aromatic

Hanoi Food History Culture

Food Discover – meal by tasty meal – that Hanoi is one of the planet’s great food cities. Dine in restored colonial villas or contemporary ca-fes, or pull up a stool and chow down on street food classics like pho bo (beef noodle soup) or bun cha (barbecued pork and rice vermicelli).

History Explore the centuries-old commercial labyrinth of the Old Quarter, before mov-ing on to understand the tumultuous events of the 20th century, recounted in fascinating detail at Hanoi’s excellent museums.

Culture There’s a lot more to Hanoi’s

l l h b l

ce

Need to Know

Currency » Dong (d)

Language » Vietnamese

High Season (Jul–Aug)

» Prices increase by up to 50% by the coast; book hotels well in advance.

» All Vietnam, except the far north, is hot and humid with the

Shoulder (Dec–Mar)

» During the Tet festival, the whole country is on the move and prices rise.

» North of Nha Trang can get cool weather. Expect cold conditions

Low Season (Apr–Jun, Sep–Nov)

» Perhaps the best time to tour the whole nation.

» Typhoons can lash the central and northern coastline

When to Go

#

#

#

# DanangGO Mar-Sep

SapaGO Mar-May & Sep-Nov

HanoiGO Mar-May & Sep-Nov

Ho Chi Minh CityGO Nov-Feb

Warm to hot summers, mild wintersTropical climate, wet & dry seasons

Set Your Budget Budget less than

US$40 » Cheap hotel: US$10–

15 a night, dorms less » Eat in local, not

Western-style places » Get a taste for bia hoi » Can survive on as

little as US$15 a day

Midrange

US$40–100

» Comfortable double room: US$20–50

» Eat and drink almost anywhere

» Indulge in the odd spa treatment

» Travel by taxi when necessary

Top End over

US$100 » Luxury hotel room:

from US$70 » Shop in smart

boutiques

8

Hue Festival, June (bien

Wandering Souls Day, A

Danang Fireworks FestApril Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment and Dea

by Month

Major religious festivals in Vietnam have lunar dates; check against any Vietnamese calendar for the Gregorian dates. If you know when Tet kicks o , simply count from there. Special prayers are held at Vietnamese and Chinese pagodas when the moon is full or a thin sliver. Many Buddhists eat only vegetar-ian food on these days, which according to the Chinese lunar calendar, fall on the 14th and 15th days of the month and from the last day of the month to the rst day of the next month.

town involved. Increasingly it’s become an international event, with music and fashion shows and a wine festival.

February North of Danang, chilly ‘Chinese winds’ usually mean grey, overcast conditions. Conversely, sunny hot days are the norm in the southern provinces.

���z Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan)

The Big One! Falling in late

�z Buon Ma Coffee Fe

Ca eine cravers shomake for the Centrlands during MarchBuon Ma Thuot plato an annual co eeGrowers, grinders, and addicts rub shoin the city’s main pand local entertainprovided.

�2 Saigon CyRace

On your marks…getdling. Ho Chi Minh fastest rickshaw dribattle it out in theirwheeled chariots to

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vietnam-11-cover.indd 2vietnam-11-cover.indd 2 3/11/2011 11:04:48 AM3/11/2011 11:04:48 AM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Iain Stewart,Brett Atkinson, Peter Dragicevich, Nick Ray

p297Ho Chi Minh City

p214Coast

p141Vietnam

p87Vietnam

p116Vietnam

p410Temples of AngkorSiem Reap and the

p352Delta

p156Central Vietnam

Mekong

p270Highlands

Central

South-Central

p42Hanoi

North-Central

Northeast Northwest

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 500Transport ........................ 511Health .............................. 523Language ........................ 528Index ................................ 542Map Legend .................... 551

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

GETTING THERE & AWAY Most travellers enter Viet-nam by plane or bus, but there are also train links from China and boat connections from Cambodia via the Mekong River.

Entering Vietnam Formalities at Vietnam’s nternational airports are

erally smoother than at orders, as the volume

s greater. That said, land from Cam-

now rela-

(%3832 0320); HCMC (%3832 0320) The state-owned ag carrier has ights to 28 inter-national destinations, mainly in east Asia, but new routes were announced to the UK and Australia in 2011.

The airline has a modern eet of Airbuses and Boe-

ings, and has a good recent safety record.

Airports There are three established international airports in Vietnam. A fourth major international airport, in PQuoc, should becomoperational in 2

pfaland

Land Vietnamwith CamLaos andborder creigners wa big impade ago. it is still Vietnamany of t

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Itiner-aries

#

#

#

#

#

_

BURMA

LAOS

VIETNAM

CAMBODIA

CHINA

THAILAND

SOUTHCHINASEA

#•

HANOI

Ho Chi Minh City

Hoi An

Hue

#• Nha Trang

Ninh Binh#•

Tam Coc#÷

Cuc PhuongNational Park

#• Mui Ne Beach

É

É

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#•

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#_

Two WeeksThe Great Ocean Road

Acclimatise in the capital, Hanoi; see the sights, wine and dine, take in a temple or two and experience the Old Quarter’s street life. Then head to nearby Ninh Binh for a couple of days. It’s the gateway to the striking scenery of Tam Coc and the primates and trails of Cuc Phuong National Park. Next it’s a long train or bus

journey south to experience Hue, imperial and irresistible capital of old. Then head up and over (or under) the mighty Hai Van Pass before hitting charming Hoi An, the perfect place for some time out – sightseeing, shopping and sunning yourself on the beach. Enter Nha Trang, the biggest and brashest beach resort in Vietnam, and try a hedonistic boat trip to nearby islands. If that’s all too much, carry on south to Mui Ne Beach, a tropical idyll with smart resorts, blissed-out budget options, towering dunes and crazy kitesurfi ng. Finish up in Ho Chi Minh City, where you can indulge in sophisticated shopping, delectable dining and the liveliest nightlife in the country.

Whether you’ve got six days or Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.comHead online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other /thorntree to chat with other travellers.travellers.

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UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

#

#

#

#

#

_

BURMA

VIETNAM CHINA

THAILAND

LAOS

HANOI

Hue

Hoi An

Ho Chi MinhCity (Saigon)

SOUTHCHINASEA

#•#÷Cuc PhuongNational Park

Can Tho

#•Cu Chi Tunnels

#•Dalat #•

Nha Trang

Danang#•My Son

My Khe Beach

Khe Sanh Combat Base

Vinh Moc Tunnels

Cat Ba IslandNinh Binh

Sapa

#•

É

É

É

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#•

#•#•

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É

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#÷Phong Nha-Ke BangNational Park

#•Bac Ha

É

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É#_ Halong Bay‚

Doc Let Beach &Whale Island‚

One MonthThe Works

Run this one in reverse, and start out in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City. Spend three days hitting the markets, browsing museums and eating some of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a day trip to discover wartime history at the Cu Chi Tunnels and then carry on to Tay Ninh, headquarters of the Cao Dai religion,

and its fairy-tale temple. Dip into the Mekong Delta for a day or two. Stay at Can Tho, the social and commercial heart of the region, and take to the water to cruise through the fl oating markets. Head up into the central highlands to the romantic hill station of Dalat to tour its quirky sights. Back down on the coast, the beach resort of Nha Trang has some serious partying, boat trips, scuba diving and snorkelling. Ease you way up the stunning central coastline stopping at beaches like Doc Let or My Khe when you fancy, visiting Whale Island and taking in Cham ruins including My Son. Cultured charmer and culi-nary mecca Hoi An is the next essential stop, before a quick look at booming Danang and on to the old imperial capital of Hue and its citadel, tombs and pagodas. Take a day trip to the former Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) where you’ll fi nd famous sites from the American War, including Khe Sanh Combat Base and the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Then head into the hills to the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, a World Heritage site where the world’s largest cave has been discovered. From here, follow the stunning Ho Chi Minh Highway to the capital, stopping to see Cuc Phuong National Park and the surreal landscapes around Ninh Binh. To the east lies Halong Bay, with more than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting the scenic bay. Stop for a couple of days on rugged Cat Ba Island, an important adventure-sports centre, before looping back to the capital. Arrive in time to catch the night train to Sapa, unoffi cial capital of the northwest hill-tribe region and a beautiful base for hiking and biking. Be sure to take a side trip to Bac Ha to catch its famous markets and tribal vil-lages before the return journey to Vietnam’s intoxicating capital, Hanoi, and its evocative Old Quarter.

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» (above) Street vendors selling vegetables, Hanoi » (left) Tourist junks glide past a floating village near Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay

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BURMA

LAOS

VIETNAM

CAMBODIA

CHINA

THAILAND

SOUTHCHINASEA

#_

#•

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Ho Chi Minh City

Hoi AnDanang

Hue#•

#•#•

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Northwest Loop by MotorbikeVietnam in a Week

10 Days Northwest Loop by Bike

Northern Vietnam is a world unto it-self, a land of brooding mountains, a mosaic of ethnic minorities, a region of overwhelming beauty. It’s ideal ter-

rain to cover on two wheels with light traffi c, breathtaking views and pretty decent paved roads. Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your fi rst two nights; it’s a perfect introduc-tion to the life of the minorities. Northwest of here, where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical stop is Son La. Dien Bien Phu is a name that resonates with history; it was here that the French co-lonial story ended with defeat. Plan on two nights here. Tour the military sights then revel in the stunning alpine scenery to the north, breaking the journey with a night in Muong Lay. On day seven, climb over the mighty Tram Ton Pass to Sapa. This is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the infi nite views (on a clear day!), an amazing array of minority peoples and some of the region’s most colourful markets. On your last day, head down to Lao Cai, then let the train take the strain – load your bike on a goods carriage while you slumber on a sleeper berth back to Hanoi.

Seven DaysVietnam in a Week

Vietnam is a large, densely-populated developing country where journeys are slow. To get an overview of the nation in a week you’re going to

have to take a couple of internal fl ights (or overnight train journeys). Begin in Hanoi, basing yourself in the Old Quarter, for a full-on introduction. Hit the ground running, spend a day touring the capital’s sights and a night munching street food and sampling bia hoi. Then take a day-trip to Halong Bay for magnifi cent scenery and revitalising sea air. Day three takes in a morning fl ight to Hue and an afternoon exploring the impe-rial citadel (with a good guide to make the most of your time).

On day four bus, train or automobile down to Hoi An, making sure you have din-ner at one of the town’s sublime Vietnamese restaurants. The following morning, soak up Hoi An’s unique atmosphere and explore its pagodas and temples on foot. If the sun’s out, hit nearby An Bang Beach for a swim later on. On day six it’s up to Danang air-port and a fl ight to Ho Chi Minh City, for a brief taste of Vietnam’s most dynamic city: its fabled restaurants, nightlife and sights.

29

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HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . .42AROUND HANOI . . . . . . . . . . 83Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Perfume Pagoda . . . . . . . . . 84Handicraft Villages . . . . . . . 84Thay & Tay Phuong Pagodas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Ba Vi National Park . . . . . . .85Co Loa Citadel . . . . . . . . . . .85Tam Dao Hill Station . . . . . 86

NORTHEAST VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . . 87Ba Be National Park . . . . . 89Con Son & Den Kiep Bac . . 91Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91HALONG BAY . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Halong City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . . . . . 99Bai Tu Long Bay . . . . . . . . .108MONG CAI & THE CHINESE BORDER . . . . . . 110Mong Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Lang Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Cao Bang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Hang Pac Bo(Water-Wheel Cave) . . . . . . 114Ban Gioc Waterfall & Nguom Ngao Cave . . . . . . . 115

NORTHWEST VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 116Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119

Tuan Giao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Pa Khoang Lake . . . . . . . . . 121Dien Bien Phu . . . . . . . . . . . 121Muong Lay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124Lai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125Lao Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133Ha Giang Province . . . . . . . 137

NORTH-CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 141Ninh Binh Province . . . . . .143Vinh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149Around Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 151Dong Hoi & Around . . . . . .153

CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 156Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) . . . . . . . . . . . . .158Dong Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Quang Tri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163Around Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Bach Ma National Park . . . 178Suoi Voi(Elephant Springs) . . . . . . . 179Lang Co Beach . . . . . . . . . . 179Hai Van Pass & Tunnel . . . .180Ba Na Hill Station . . . . . . . .180Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Around Danang . . . . . . . . . . 187Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 207My Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Tra Kieu (Simhapura) . . . .213Chien Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213

SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Quang Ngai . . . . . . . . . . . . .216Around Quang Ngai . . . . . . 217Sa Huynh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218Quy Nhon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 223Quang Trung Museum . . . 224Ham Ho Nature Reserve. . 224Song Cau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 225Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227Around Nha Trang . . . . . . 243Phan Rang & Thap Cham 244Ninh Chu Beach . . . . . . . . 246Ca Na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247Phan Thiet . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Ta Cu Mountain . . . . . . . . 256Binh Chau Hot Springs . . 256Phan Thiet to Long Hai . . .257Long Hai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . 263

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .270Dalat & Around . . . . . . . . . .272Bao Loc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283

Ngoan Muc Pass . . . . . . . . 283Cat Tien National Park . . 283Buon Ma Thuot . . . . . . . . . 285Around Buon Ma Thuot . . 288Pleiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291Kon Tum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293

HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . .297AROUND HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . 342Cu Chi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343Tay Ninh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346One Pillar Pagoda. . . . . . . 349Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349

MEKONG DELTA . . . .352My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354Around My Tho . . . . . . . . . .357Ben Tre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360Around Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . 363Vinh Long . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Can Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366Around Can Tho . . . . . . . . . 371Soc Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .373Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .374Around Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . .375Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .376Around Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . .378Rach Gia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . .381Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392Around Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . 395Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397Around Chau Doc . . . . . . . 400

Long Xuyen . . . . . . . . . . . . 402Cao Lanh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404Around Cao Lanh . . . . . . . 407Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407

SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . .410SIEM REAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411AROUND SIEM REAP . . . . 417Cambodia Landmine Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417Chong Kneas . . . . . . . . . . . . 417Kompong Pluk . . . . . . . . . . 417TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . 418Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . . .418Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . .418Around Angkor Thom . . . 423

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Iain Stewart Coordinating Author, North-Central Vietnam, Central Vietnam Iain Stewart fi rst visited and was captivated by Vietnam as a traveller in 1991 (armed with a trusty Lonely Planet). He’s now a Brighton-based writer, specialising in hot countries a long way from his English seaside abode. Iain has written over 30 guidebooks for destinations including Guatemala, Ibiza and Indonesia, for many publishers. This trip was quite a blast – motorbiking the Ho Chi Minh Highway, sailing to the

Chams, partying in Saigon, exploring the heart of Phong Nha and eating the best food in the world.

Brett Atkinson Hanoi, Northeast Vietnam, Northwest Vietnam Brett Atkinson fi rst visited Vietnam in late 1993, a few months before the United States lifted their trade embargo. For this trip he dived headfi rst into Hanoi’s brilliant street food scene, returned to Halong Bay, and explored northern Vietnam’s emerging destinations for intrepid travellers: Ha Giang province and Bai Tu Long. When he’s not home in Auckland, Brett’s exploring the planet as a food and travel writer. See

www.brett-atkinson.net for what he’s been eating, and where he’s headed next.

Peter Dragicevich Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong Delta Being a self-declared big-city junkie, Peter was thrilled to return to Vietnam to write about Ho Chi Minh City after a four-year hiatus. Things change quickly in Vietnam, but despite a few new skyscrapers and a fresh crop of international bars and restaurants, he was pleased to fi nd Saigon just as crazy, chaotic and thrilling as ever. This is the 21st Lonely Planet guidebook that he’s contributed to, including a previous edition of this book. When he’s not slurping

up noodle soup on motorcycle-clogged streets he’s based in his hometown of Auckland, New Zealand.

Nick Ray Central Highlands, South-Central Coast, Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. As he lives in Phnom Penh, Vietnam is Nick’s backyard. He has co-authored Cycling Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia, as well as the Cambodia book for Lonely Planet. Nick has been to almost every province from Ha Giang in the north to Ca Mau in the south. He was exploring in-between this time around and

enjoyed motorbiking the Central Highlands and hanging out on Con Dao.

Read more about Iain at:lonelyplanet.com/members/iainstewart

Read more about Peter at:lonelyplanet.com/members/peterdragicevich

OUR WRITERS

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