PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Germany ..... 2Map ................................... 418 Top Experiences ......... 6Need to Know .................. 16First Time ......................... 18What’s New ...................... 20If You Like... ...................... 21Month by Month .............. 25Itineraries ......................... 28Outdoor Activities ........... 32Eat & Drink Like a Local..... 36Travel with Children ........ 42Regions at a Glance ........ 46

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND GERMANY

Germany Today ............... 716History .............................. 718The German People ........ 737Food & Drink .................... 741Literature, Theatre & Film .............................. 747Music ................................ 751Visual Arts ........................ 754Architecture ..................... 758Landscapes & Wildlife .... 761

r

92 would be German2 would be Turkish6 would be other

if Germany were100 people

History Germany’s long and event-rich history begins in a land of forests, wind-swept coasts and mountains inhabited by Celts and Germanic tribes,who battled against Roman legions on the periphery of the ClassicalWorld. By the 9th century, regions east of the Rhine developed their ownidentity and, for the first time, it became possible to talk about ‘German’rulers, the most illustrious of which was, without doubt, Charlemagne.But the fortunes of Germany long remained in the hands of feudal rulers,who pursued their own petty interests at the expense of a unified state.The Middle Ages were a bleak, barbaric time characterised by squabblingprinces, plague and cultural darkness, and led to deep-running religiousdivisions and strife between Catholics and Protestants that culminated in the devastating Thirty Years’ War. The mighty Bismarck united theGermans into a federal state in the 19th century, but from then on Ger-many trod a fractious path from unification to the Great War. The Treaty of Versailles created fertile ground for the rise of Hitler and the Nazis,which took the country into WWII and ultimately to disaster and humiliation. The Cold War once again split Germany, this time into austere communist East and affluent West that underwent the economic miracleof the 1950s and ‘60s. This wealth and industrial might, plus eacefulreunification following the fall of the Berlin Wall, have fashioned thepowerful country we know today.

Tribes & The Romans The early inhabitants of Germany were Celts and later the Germanic tribes In the Iron Age (from around 800 BC ermanic clans on the North

Best Roman

Sites » Trier » Xanten » Cologne » Aachen » Regensburg » Bingen » Mainz

For more on

Bewitching Scenery Few countries have had as much impact on the world as Germany, which has given us the printing press, the automobile, aspirin and MP3 technology. This is the birthplace of Martin Luther, Albert Einstein and Karl Marx, of Goethe, Beethoven, the Brothers Grimm and other heavyweights who, each in their own way, have left their mark on human history. As you travel the country, you’ll have plen-ty of brushes with genius, but Germany’s storybook landscapes will likely leave an even bigger imprint on your memories. There’s something undeniably artistic in the way the scenery unfolds – the corru-gated, dune-fringed coasts of the north,

the moody forests, romantic river valleys and vast vineyards of central Germany’s backbone, and the o -the-charts splen-dour of the Alps, carved into rugged glory by glaciers and the elements. All are in-tegral parts of a magical natural matrix that’s bound to give your camera batteries a workout. As much fun as it may be to rev up the engines on the autobahn, getting o the highway lets you soak up the epic scenery that makes each delicious, slow, winding mile so precious.

Pleasures of Civilisation You’ll encounter history in towns where streets were laid out long before Colum-bus set sail and in castles that loom above

Welcome to Germany

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

715GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

Need to Know

Currency » Euro (€)

Language » German

High Season (Jul & Aug)

» Busy roads and long lines at key sights

» Vacancies at a premium and higher prices in seaside and mountain resorts

» Festivals celebrate everything from music to wine, sailing to samba

Shoulder Season (Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct)

» Smaller crowds and lower prices, except public holidays

» Blooming flowers in spring; radiant foliage in autumn

» Sunny, temperate weather ideal for outdoor pursuits

Low Season (Nov-Mar)

» No lines but shorter hours at key sights; some may close for the season

» Theatre, concert, opera season in full swing

» Ski resorts busiest in January and February

When to Go

#

#

#

#

#

HamburgGO May–Sep

FrankfurtGO May–Sep

FreiburgGO Apr–Oct

BerlinGO May, Jun,

Sep & Oct

MunichGO Apr, May,

Sep & Oct

Warm to hot summers, mild wintersWarm to hot summers, mild wintersWarm to hot summers, cold wintersWarm to hot summers, cold wintersMild summers, cold wintersMild summers, cold wintersCold climateCold climate

Your Daily Budget Budget up to

€100 » Hostel, camping or

private room: €12–25 » Up to €8 per meal or

self-cater » Take advantage of

Happy Hours and free or low-cost museums or entertainment

Midrange

€100–200

» Private apartment or double room: €60–100

» Cafe lunch, dinner at nice restaurant: €30–40

» Couple of beers in a pub or beer garden: €8

Top End over

€200 » Fancy loft apartment

or double in top-end hotel: €150

» Sit-down lunch, dinner at top-rated restaurant: €100

» Concert or opera tickets: €50

16

Top Events

Oktoberfest September

Christmas Markets December

Karneval/Fasching February

Berlin Film Festival February

Kieler Woche June

Month by Month

January Except in the ski resorts, the Germans have the country pretty much to themselves this month. Short and cold days make this a good time to make in-depth explorations of museums and churches.

2 Mountain Madness

Grab your skis or snow-board and hit the slopes in resorts that range from glam (Garmisch-Partenkirchen (p ### )) to family-friendly (Bavarian Forest). No matter whether you’re a black dia-mond daredevil or Sesame Street novice, there’s a piste

ith it

red carpet for two weeks of screenings and glamour parties at the Berlinale, one of Europe’s most prestigious celluloid festivals.

z Karneval/Fasching

The pre-Lenten season is celebrated with costumed street partying, parades, satirical shows and general revelry. The biggest parties are along the Rhine in Düs-seldorf, Cologne and Mainz, but the Black Forest and Munich also have their own traditions.

March Days start getting longer and the first inkling

arrival of spring more than the first crop of white asparagus. Germans go nuts for it.

z Walpurgisnacht The pagan Witches’

Sabbath festival (p000) on 30 April has Harz villages roaring to life as young and old dress up as witches and warlocks and parade through the streets singing and dancing.

z Maifest Villagers celebrate

the end of winter on 30 April by chopping down a tree for a Maypole (Maibaum), painting, carv-ing and decorating it, and staging a merry revelry with traditional costumes

25

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -844 -9

9 781741 798449

99725

twitter.com/lonelyplanet

facebook.com/lonelyplanet

lonelyplanet.com/newsletter

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ%020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

Get the right guides for your trip

DISCOVER• Best-of• Photo-packed• Inspirational

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

REGIONAL• Cultural• Day trips & itineraries• In-depth

COUNTRY & CITY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

DD•

y p• In-dep

POCKET• Top sights• Local life• Made easy

RREGIRREGIONALONAL•Cultural

RYRY & CI& CITTThe original

COUNCOUCOUCOUNTT•The or

TYYYT

RR

• A

DISCCCDISCOVOVEROVVER•Best of

ppth

POCKPOCKETET PHRASEBOOK

germany-7-cover.indd 2germany-7-cover.indd 2 23/11/2012 4:55:23 PM23/11/2012 4:55:23 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Germany ..... 2Map ................................... 418 Top Experiences ......... 6Need to Know .................. 16First Time ......................... 18What’s New ...................... 20If You Like... ...................... 21Month by Month .............. 25Itineraries ......................... 28Outdoor Activities ........... 32Eat & Drink Like a Local..... 36Travel with Children ........ 42Regions at a Glance ........ 46

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND GERMANY

Germany Today ............... 716History .............................. 718The German People ........ 737Food & Drink .................... 741Literature, Theatre & Film .............................. 747Music ................................ 751Visual Arts ........................ 754Architecture ..................... 758Landscapes & Wildlife .... 761

r

92 would be German2 would be Turkish6 would be other

if Germany were100 people

History Germany’s long and event-rich history begins in a land of forests, wind-swept coasts and mountains inhabited by Celts and Germanic tribes,who battled against Roman legions on the periphery of the ClassicalWorld. By the 9th century, regions east of the Rhine developed their ownidentity and, for the first time, it became possible to talk about ‘German’rulers, the most illustrious of which was, without doubt, Charlemagne.But the fortunes of Germany long remained in the hands of feudal rulers,who pursued their own petty interests at the expense of a unified state.The Middle Ages were a bleak, barbaric time characterised by squabblingprinces, plague and cultural darkness, and led to deep-running religiousdivisions and strife between Catholics and Protestants that culminated in the devastating Thirty Years’ War. The mighty Bismarck united theGermans into a federal state in the 19th century, but from then on Ger-many trod a fractious path from unification to the Great War. The Treaty of Versailles created fertile ground for the rise of Hitler and the Nazis,which took the country into WWII and ultimately to disaster and humiliation. The Cold War once again split Germany, this time into austere communist East and affluent West that underwent the economic miracleof the 1950s and ‘60s. This wealth and industrial might, plus eacefulreunification following the fall of the Berlin Wall, have fashioned thepowerful country we know today.

Tribes & The Romans The early inhabitants of Germany were Celts and later the Germanic tribes In the Iron Age (from around 800 BC ermanic clans on the North

Best Roman

Sites » Trier » Xanten » Cologne » Aachen » Regensburg » Bingen » Mainz

For more on

Bewitching Scenery Few countries have had as much impact on the world as Germany, which has given us the printing press, the automobile, aspirin and MP3 technology. This is the birthplace of Martin Luther, Albert Einstein and Karl Marx, of Goethe, Beethoven, the Brothers Grimm and other heavyweights who, each in their own way, have left their mark on human history. As you travel the country, you’ll have plen-ty of brushes with genius, but Germany’s storybook landscapes will likely leave an even bigger imprint on your memories. There’s something undeniably artistic in the way the scenery unfolds – the corru-gated, dune-fringed coasts of the north,

the moody forests, romantic river valleys and vast vineyards of central Germany’s backbone, and the o -the-charts splen-dour of the Alps, carved into rugged glory by glaciers and the elements. All are in-tegral parts of a magical natural matrix that’s bound to give your camera batteries a workout. As much fun as it may be to rev up the engines on the autobahn, getting o the highway lets you soak up the epic scenery that makes each delicious, slow, winding mile so precious.

Pleasures of Civilisation You’ll encounter history in towns where streets were laid out long before Colum-bus set sail and in castles that loom above

Welcome to Germany

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

715GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

Need to Know

Currency » Euro (€)

Language » German

High Season (Jul & Aug)

» Busy roads and long lines at key sights

» Vacancies at a premium and higher prices in seaside and mountain resorts

» Festivals celebrate everything from music to wine, sailing to samba

Shoulder Season (Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct)

» Smaller crowds and lower prices, except public holidays

» Blooming flowers in spring; radiant foliage in autumn

» Sunny, temperate weather ideal for outdoor pursuits

Low Season (Nov-Mar)

» No lines but shorter hours at key sights; some may close for the season

» Theatre, concert, opera season in full swing

» Ski resorts busiest in January and February

When to Go

#

#

#

#

#

HamburgGO May–Sep

FrankfurtGO May–Sep

FreiburgGO Apr–Oct

BerlinGO May, Jun,

Sep & Oct

MunichGO Apr, May,

Sep & Oct

Warm to hot summers, mild wintersWarm to hot summers, mild wintersWarm to hot summers, cold wintersWarm to hot summers, cold wintersMild summers, cold wintersMild summers, cold wintersCold climateCold climate

Your Daily Budget Budget up to

€100 » Hostel, camping or

private room: €12–25 » Up to €8 per meal or

self-cater » Take advantage of

Happy Hours and free or low-cost museums or entertainment

Midrange

€100–200

» Private apartment or double room: €60–100

» Cafe lunch, dinner at nice restaurant: €30–40

» Couple of beers in a pub or beer garden: €8

Top End over

€200 » Fancy loft apartment

or double in top-end hotel: €150

» Sit-down lunch, dinner at top-rated restaurant: €100

» Concert or opera tickets: €50

16

Top Events

Oktoberfest September

Christmas Markets December

Karneval/Fasching February

Berlin Film Festival February

Kieler Woche June

Month by Month

January Except in the ski resorts, the Germans have the country pretty much to themselves this month. Short and cold days make this a good time to make in-depth explorations of museums and churches.

2 Mountain Madness

Grab your skis or snow-board and hit the slopes in resorts that range from glam (Garmisch-Partenkirchen (p ### )) to family-friendly (Bavarian Forest). No matter whether you’re a black dia-mond daredevil or Sesame Street novice, there’s a piste

ith it

red carpet for two weeks of screenings and glamour parties at the Berlinale, one of Europe’s most prestigious celluloid festivals.

z Karneval/Fasching

The pre-Lenten season is celebrated with costumed street partying, parades, satirical shows and general revelry. The biggest parties are along the Rhine in Düs-seldorf, Cologne and Mainz, but the Black Forest and Munich also have their own traditions.

March Days start getting longer and the first inkling

arrival of spring more than the first crop of white asparagus. Germans go nuts for it.

z Walpurgisnacht The pagan Witches’

Sabbath festival (p000) on 30 April has Harz villages roaring to life as young and old dress up as witches and warlocks and parade through the streets singing and dancing.

z Maifest Villagers celebrate

the end of winter on 30 April by chopping down a tree for a Maypole (Maibaum), painting, carv-ing and decorating it, and staging a merry revelry with traditional costumes

25

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -844 -9

9 781741 798449

99725

twitter.com/lonelyplanet

facebook.com/lonelyplanet

lonelyplanet.com/newsletter

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ%020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

Get the right guides for your trip

DISCOVER• Best-of• Photo-packed• Inspirational

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

REGIONAL• Cultural• Day trips & itineraries• In-depth

COUNTRY & CITY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

POCKET• Top sights• Local life• Made easy

PHRASEBOOK

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Kerry Christiani, Marc Di Duca, Anthony Haywood,

Daniel Robinson, Ryan Ver Berkmoes

the NorthHamburg &

& BremenLower Saxony

Southern RhinelandFrankfurt &

Munich

GermanyCentral

Cologne &Northern Rhineland

Berlin

BerlinAround

Saxony

Black ForestStuttgart & the

Bavaria

p644

p596

p369

p177

p525p462

p52

p118

p135

p305

p226

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z .................. 766Transport ......................... 776Language & Glossary ..... 789Index ................................. 798Map Legend ..................... 814

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Accommodation Germany has all types of places to unpack your suit-case. Standards are gener-ally high, and even basic accommodation will likely be clean and comfortable. Reservations are a good idea between June and Septem-ber, around major holidays, festivals, cultural events and trade shows. In this book, reviews are listed by author

reference.Accommodation costs

wildly between regions ween cities and rural

at will buy you a e in a country-

varian For-simple

Budget stays will gener-ally have you checking in at hostels, country inns, Pensionen (B&Bs or small hotels) or simple fam-ily hotels. Facilities may be shared. Midrange proper-ties offer extra creature comforts, such as cable TV, wi-fi and private bathrooms. Overall these constitute the best value for money. Top-end places offer luxurious amenities, perhaps scenic locations, special decor or historical ambience. Many also have pools, saunas and business centres.

Agritourism Family-friendly farm holidays offer a great opportunity to get close to nature in relative comfort. Kids get to interact

vourite

facilities to fully-furnished holiday apartments. Minimum stays are common. Farm types include organic, dairy and equestrian farms as well as wine estates. Note that places advertising Landurlaub(country holiday) no longer actively work their farms.

The German Agricultural Association inspects and quality controls hundreds of farms and publishes details on www.landtourismus.de, which also allows you to contact individual properties directly. Another source is www.landsichten.de.

Camping Campgrounds are well main-tained, however many get jammed in summer. Book early or show up before nooto snap up spots. The corecamping season runs fMay to September, bfew sites are ope

Many sitelocales

Directory A–Z

with (any combtoilet, bathtuband washbasin), icluding breakfast andall taxes.

€ less than €80€€ €80 to €150€€€ more than €150

PAGE

50

PAGE

765

germany-7-cover.indd 2germany-7-cover.indd 2 29/11/2012 4:15:57 PM29/11/2012 4:15:57 PM

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Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got five days or 50, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

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Two WeeksTop of the Pops

Bookended by great cities, this road trip lets you sample superb culture, character and architecture. Kick off with a couple of days in Berlin for its top-notch museums, old and bold architecture and nice-to-naughty nightlife. Next is a day in Dresden, in its baroque splendour on the Elbe River. Push south to Nuremberg, with its evocative

walled medieval centre, and on to Munich, where an evening in a beer garden is the perfect finish to two days of palace and museum hopping. Drive to Garmisch-Partenkirchen to breathe the fresh Alpine air on an exhilarating train-and-cable-car trip up the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain. Spend the night here, then get up early to beat the crowds swarming ‘Mad’ King Ludwig II’s castles in Füssen. In the afternoon, point the compass north for the Romantic Road, possibly overnighting in Dinkelsbühl or Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Next, cut west to historic Heidelberg, with its romantically ruined fortress, then north to Worms and Mainz, with their Romanesque cathedrals. After a night in enchant-ing Bacharach, follow the Romantic Rhine through fairy-tale scenery before winding up in cosmopolitan Cologne for a day or two of church-hopping, great art and rustic beer halls.

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Start your driving exploration with a day in Frankfurt, where you can soak up culture in world-class museums, cider in traditional taverns and views of the city skyline from the river promenade. Point the compass northwest to Koblenz, dra-matically located at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers with the mighty

Ehrenbreitstein fortress looming above. This is the gateway to the Romantic Rhine, a scene-stealing combo of steeply terraced vineyards, lordly medieval castles and higgledy-piggledy villages. Say hello to legendary Loreley rock as you follow the western river bank south, perhaps stopping in postcard-pretty Boppard and fairy-tale-like Bacharach or fancying yourself knight or damsel for a night in a luxurious castle hotel. The next morning, make a quick stop in Mainz, where Johannes Gutenberg ushered in the information age by invent-ing moveable type.

Next, follow in the footsteps of Mark Twain in bewitching Heidelberg, Germany’s oldest university town, where you shouldn’t miss a tour of the majestic and impossibly romantic castle. Take a day’s break from culture in Baden-Baden, the legendary spa resort where royals, celebrities, politicians and mere mortals have for centuries frolicked in elegant bath-ing temples. From here go cuckoo for the Black Forest, a storied pastiche of forest-cloaked hills, glacial lakes, snug valleys and half-timbered villages like Gengenbach and Triberg. Build in a least half a day in student-flavoured Freiburg, with its imposing minster; it’s the place to enjoy the crisp local wine alfresco amid tangled cobbled lanes.

From here cut east to the vast Lake Constance and follow its scenic northern shore, perhaps stopping in pretty Meersburg, the prehistoric Pfahlbauten (pile dwellings) or Friedrichhafen, the birthplace of the Zeppelin airship. Consider overnighting in lovely Lindau, a teensy island laced with a maze of cobbled alleys jutting into the water. You’re now in Bavaria, en route to the fabled Schloss Neuschwanstein in Füssen and on to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, where a train-and-cable-car combo delivers you to the top of the Zugspitze. Come back down to earth in a beer hall in Munich before wrapping up your journey with a couple of days of oohing and aahing your way up the Romantic Road. Essential stops include Rothenburg ob der Tauber and Würzburg, from which it’s a quick drive back to Frankfurt.

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Four WeeksTour de Germany

This trip presents you with the mother lode of soul-stirring landscapes, villages and spirit-lifting culture in some of Germany’s finest cities. Base yourself in Berlin for a few days, perhaps following the suggestions outlined on p59, and add a one-day excursion to park-and-palace-filled Potsdam. Next putter around – preferably in a

kayak or canoe – one of Germany’s most unusual landscapes, the canal-laced Spreewald, home to the Sorb ethnic minority. Make a quick detour to Görlitz on the Polish border, one of Germany’s best-preserved small towns, then earmark two days to get properly acquainted with Dresden’s cultural riches. Continue on to Thuringia to walk in the footsteps of Ger-many’s greatest intellects – from Luther to Goethe to Gropius – in Weimar and Erfurt.

Spend the next three days exploring a trio of medieval gems teeming with happily re-stored, centuries-old buildings: compact Bamberg exudes romance; much bigger Nurem-berg pegs its fame not only to its role as a medieval powerhouse but also to its less glorious Third Reich legacy; and Regensburg is a lively university town founded by the Romans whose many patrician towers overlook the coursing Danube. From here, wend your way towards Munich via the enchanting Altmühltal Nature Park. It’s best savoured slowly, on foot, by bike or by boat.

Make a study of Munich for a couple of days, perhaps folding day trips up the Zugspitze or to Ludwig II’s Schloss Neuschwanstein into your itinerary. Your route continues west to Lake Constance, where stops should include lovely Lindau and picture-perfect Meers-burg. Revel in the youthful spirit of ancient Freiburg for a day, then point the compass north for scenic drives through the Black Forest, ending in Baden-Baden for the night. Relax in the town’s thermal spas before ploughing on to Heidelberg, with its romantically ruined castle. Cut across the Rhine to Speyer. Take a spin around Speyer’s Romanesque ca-thedral, then compare it to its upriver cousins in Worms and Mainz. You’re in the heart of wine country now, so sample the local tipple in idyllic villages like Bacharach or Boppard as you follow the river north through the dramatic scenery of the castle-studded Romantic Rhine. The tour ends in Cologne, whose magnificent cathedral will come into view long before you’ve reached town. Great museums, Romanesque churches and Rhenish joie de vivre will easily keep you entertained for a day or two.

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One WeekRomans, Rivers, Rieslings

Start in Cologne and let this journey of grand architecture, absorbing his-tory, world-class art and fine wine unfurl. Stand in awe of the twin-

spired Kölner Dom, explore the city’s en-gaging museums (chocolate, contemporary art, sports – take your pick!) and indulge in a hearty supper and local Kölsch beer in a Rhenish tavern. Head to Aachen next to walk in the footsteps of Charlemagne and munch on a crunchy Printen cookie, then travel back in time another few centuries in storied Trier. More than 2000 years old, it’s home to some of the finest Roman monu-ments north of the Alps.

The following day take your time to mosey along the serpentine Moselle River, which runs past steep vineyards to meet the Rhine at Koblenz. Swoon over crisp riesling in half-timbered Bernkastel-Kues or fairy-tale Beilstein, then compare it with wines produced along the Rhine. Follow that river south as it carves past picture-postcard vil-lages like Boppard and Bacharach, and craggy cliffs crowned by medieval castles. On your last day, discover Mainz, with its great cathedral and fabulous museum dedi-cated to moveable type inventor and local boy Johannes Gutenberg.

One WeekHanseatic Highlights

This itinerary hopscotches around northern Germany to delightful cities shaped by the sea and a long mercan-tile tradition rooted in the medieval

Hanseatic League. You can drive it, but it’s just as easily done by train. Kick-off is in cos-mopolitan Hamburg, a city that cradles an elegant centre and an edgy new waterfront quarter, the red-brick Speicherstadt (ware-house district).

Spend a couple of days here before ven-turing on to Lübeck, an enchanting historic town, where the landmark Holsten Gate is a shutterbug favourite. Try the local marzi-pan and then head to pastoral Schwerin, a cultural hub hemmed in by crystalline lakes. Sitting pretty on an island in one of them is the much-photographed Schloss Schwerin.

Carry on to Bremen, the northern ter-minus of the ‘Fairytale Road’. After greet-ing the statue of the Town Musicians, check out expressionist architecture, mummified corpses in the cathedral crypt, and Beck’s brewery, then party till dawn in Das Viertel. Once your head’s clear again, steer north to Bremerhaven, which was the port of dreams for millions of souls hoping for a better life in the New World. The German Emigration Centre tells their story.

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BERLIN � � � � � � � � � � � � 52

AROUND BERLIN � � � 118POTSDAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120SACHSENHAUSENCONCENTRATION CAMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127SPREEWALD . . . . . . . . . . . . 128BRANDENBURG AN DER HAVEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131FRANKFURT (ODER) . . . . 133CHORIN & NIEDERFINOW . . . . . . . . . . 134

SAXONY � � � � � � � � � � � 135DRESDEN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136AROUND DRESDEN . . . . . 150Meissen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151SAXON SWITZERLAND . . 152LEIPZIG & WESTERN SAXONY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Chemnitz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Zwickau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168EASTERN SAXONY . . . . . . 170Görlitz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Zittau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175

MUNICH � � � � � � � � � � � 177AROUND MUNICH . . . . . . .223

BAVARIA � � � � � � � � � �226BAVARIAN ALPS . . . . . . . . 230Füssen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Garmisch- Partenkirchen . . . . . . . . . . .236

Berchtesgaden . . . . . . . . . .245THE ROMANTIC ROAD . . . 248Würzburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248Rothenburg ob der Tauber . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253Dinkelsbühl . . . . . . . . . . . . .258Nördlingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259Donauwörth. . . . . . . . . . . . . 261Augsburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261Landsberg am Lech . . . . . 264NUREMBERG & FRANCONIA . . . . . . . . . . . .265Nuremberg . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Bamberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Bayreuth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Coburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284Eichstätt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .287REGENSBURG & THEDANUBE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288Ingolstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . .295Landshut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298Passau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299Bavarian Forest . . . . . . . . . 302

STUTTGART & THE BLACK FOREST � � � � �305STUTTGART . . . . . . . . . . . . 308SWABIAN ALPS & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318Tübingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318Ulm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .325THE BLACK FOREST . . . . . 329Baden-Baden . . . . . . . . . . .329Karlsruhe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .335Freudenstadt . . . . . . . . . . . .337

Schiltach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340Gengenbach . . . . . . . . . . . . 341Freiburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342Breisach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348Feldberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349Titisee-Neustadt. . . . . . . . 350Schluchsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351Triberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352Villingen- Schwenningen . . . . . . . . . .354LAKE CONSTANCE . . . . . . 356Konstanz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .357Meersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Friedrichshafen . . . . . . . . . .365Ravensburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 366Lindau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .367

FRANKFURT & SOUTHERN RHINELAND � � � � � � �369FRANKFURT AM MAIN . . . 371AROUND FRANKFURT . . 401Wiesbaden . . . . . . . . . . . . . .401Mainz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .407Darmstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411HEIDELBERG & AROUND 415Speyer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .423Mannheim . . . . . . . . . . . . . .427Worms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428GERMAN WINE ROUTE . . 431Deidesheim . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431Bad Dürkheim . . . . . . . . . . 433THE ROMANTIC RHINE VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . 434Rüdesheim & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Bingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438Bacharach . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439Oberwesel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440Loreley & St Goarshausen . . . . . . . . . 441Boppard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442Koblenz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444THE MOSELLE VALLEY . . 446Traben-Trarbach . . . . . . . . 448Bernkastel-Kues . . . . . . . . 450Trier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451SAARLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 456

COLOGNE & NORTHERN RHINELAND � � � � � � �462COLOGNE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466THE RHINELAND . . . . . . . .478Brühl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .478Bonn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .479Aachen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .487Düsseldorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . .492Lower Rhine . . . . . . . . . . . .501THE RUHRGEBIET . . . . . . . 503Essen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503Dortmund . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506MÜNSTER &OSNABRÜCK . . . . . . . . . . . 511OSTWESTFALEN . . . . . . . . 520Soest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520Paderborn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521SAUERLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 523Altena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .523Winterberg. . . . . . . . . . . . . .523Siegen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524

CENTRAL GERMANY � � � � � � � � � 525FAIRY-TALE ROAD . . . . . . . 528Kassel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .532Hamelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .537ERFURT, WEIMAR &THURINGIA . . . . . . . . . . . . .539THURINGIAN FOREST & THE SAALE VALLEY . . . . . 555Eisenach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .555Schmalkalden . . . . . . . . . . .558Saalfeld . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .559Jena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .559SAALE-UNSTRUT REGION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .562Naumburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .562Freyburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .563HARZ MOUNTAINS . . . . . . 564Goslar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .565Bad Harzburg . . . . . . . . . . 568Wernigerode . . . . . . . . . . . 569Schierke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571Quedlinburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 572Thale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .576LUTHERSTADT WITTENBERG & SAXONY-ANHALT . . . . . . .578Lutherstadt Wittenberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .578Dessau-Rosslau . . . . . . . . .583Magdeburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 588Halle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .592

LOWER SAXONY & BREMEN � � � � � � � � �596HANOVER & THE EAST . . . 597Celle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .610

Hildesheim . . . . . . . . . . . . . 613Braunschweig . . . . . . . . . . . 615Wolfsburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 618BREMEN & THE EASTFRISIAN COAST . . . . . . . . 620Oldenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .635Emden & Around . . . . . . . .637Jever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 638

HAMBURG & THE NORTH � � � � � � � � � � � �644HAMBURG . . . . . . . . . . . . . 648AROUND HAMBURG . . . . .670Lüneburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .670SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN . . . 673Lübeck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .673Kiel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680Flensburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 685Husum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 686North Frisian Islands . . . . .687SCHWERIN & THE MECKLENBURG LAKE PLAINS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692Güstrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696Neubrandenburg . . . . . . . .697Neustrelitz . . . . . . . . . . . . . 698COASTAL MECKLENBURG – WESTERN POMERANIA . . .699Rostock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 699Warnemünde . . . . . . . . . . . . 701Baltic Coastal Resorts . . . .702Wismar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .703Stralsund . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .705Rügen Island . . . . . . . . . . . .709Usedom Island . . . . . . . . . . 714

Anthony HaywoodCentral Germany, Lower Saxony Anthony was born in the port city of Fremantle, Western Australia, and pulled anchor early on to mostly hitchhike through Europe and the USA. Aberystwyth in Wales and Ealing in London were his wintering grounds at the time. He later studied comparative literature in Perth and Russian language in Melbourne. In the 1990s he moved to Germany and has been travelling the country ever since. Today he works as a German-based freelance writer and

journalist and divides his time between Göttingen (Lower Saxony) and Berlin.

Daniel RobinsonFrankfurt & the Southern Rhine In his two decades with Lonely Planet, Daniel has covered both sides of the Franco–German border, sipping as many crisp whites in Alsace as in the Palatinate. When he’s not interviewing bouncers at trendy Heidelberg nightclubs or reviewing apple-wine taverns in Frankfurt, he relaxes by ‘barge spotting’ along the Romantic Rhine and visiting lesser-known sights connected to the Rhineland’s long and illustrious Jewish history. Daniel’s travel

writing on Europe, Asia and the Middle East has been translated into 10 languages.

Ryan Ver BerkmoesCologne & Northern Rhineland, Hamburg & the North Ryan Ver Berkmoes once lived in Germany. Three years in Frankfurt, during which time he edited a magazine until he got a chance for a new career...with Lonely Planet. One of his first jobs was working on Lonely Planet’s Germany coverage. He loves smoked fish, which serves him well in the north, and he loves beer, which serves him well everywhere in Germany. Follow him at ryanverberkmoes.com. He tweets at @ryanvb.

Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – March 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 844 9© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Our WritersAndrea Schulte-PeeversCoordinating Author, Berlin, Around Berlin, Saxony Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 65 countries. She’s written about her native country for two decades and authored or contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, including all editions of this guide, the Berlin city guide and the Berlin Pocket guide. After years of living in LA, Andrea couldn’t be happier to

finally make her home in a lovely Berlin flat.

Kerry ChristianiStuttgart & the Black Forest Having lived for six years in Germany’s Black Forest, Kerry jumped at the chance to return to her second home (and family) to write her chapters. Hiking in the hills, cycling around Lake Constance and road-testing black forest gateau (it’s a hard life) kept her busy for this edition. Kerry has authored some 20 guidebooks and frequently contributes to print and online magazines, including Olive, Lonely Planet Magazine and bbc.com/travel. She

tweets @kerrychristiani and lists her latest work at www.kerrychristiani.com. Kerry also wrote the Outdoor Activities, Eat & Drink Like a Local, Food & Drink and Landscapes & Wildlife chapters.

Marc Di DucaMunich, Bavaria A well-established travel guide author, Marc has explored many corners of Germany over the past 20 years, but it’s to the quirky variety and friendliness of Bavaria that he returns most willingly. When not hiking Alpine valleys, eating snowballs in Rothenburg ob der Tauber or brewery hopping in Bamberg, he can be found in Sandwich, Kent, where he lives with his Kievite wife, Tanya, and their two sons. Germany is Marc’s 21st Lonely Planet guide. Marc also

wrote the History, German People, Literature, Theatre & Film, Music, Visual Arts and Architecture chapters.

Read more about Kerry at: lonelyplanet.com/members/kerrychristiani

Our stOryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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