Petra - NatGeo

8/2/2019 Petra - NatGeo

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7tbed in a mountl landscp, b Mnstry k Pta tse is hred

b lf/ wb t w.' aved Tgb ratled y tbqas hoh

Copyg Naonal Geogrphic Socie 20Al Rgh ed


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centuries, many o/Peta' buldz.ng td fat evn a the t declined and m

owdwn and cnceaed t gloranth agCopyg Naonal Geogrphic Socie 20Al Rgh ed


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W gt fom thanknn gv man o taml r oad an th amp

tpd out Thn t rvn nglmndd a ln f nt ould t ot thugh thmog mt, gadng t pu agrm bndi ad pa uaily ing lthrugh t trahy Ym

t f Lng gng l t aavanuld pau trad at Mina, dikig mt akh ll d gng ngh oth jouy aha hn it uld tik utnth ao th hllh ltn ad ftn Aba lvng fm n t hl oLh nt all h ay to h aptal of th Naba-taa h uld th lad t t dnRv T t al div f mlna agoth ity ta knd W


7/18

They probaby moved nt Paene om Aaia evea enuries befoe Cit By he cnty uc heir aa w a ty apedy t soption and wea at Praa naa ore n a pas houg rggedmntain, aqied a a osads fo trad.

FUng a pwe vaum e by Geee'dline e Naataean domaed ts a fe Mddl Ea mo an fo eneefore eng jgad y e Roman enepsed y e ntne and nay dpesed n e ak o stoy Fomerd e poey we w ey wee a; anen mnusps dse em awd ades and mean Bo aea eeed n eas pu aeea dizzyng aay o emples om heae,and ote dng sed o f ueandne Saeed ove 400 quae mle andnneed by ra and aravan ad tedng ae mnmenta and dama evenwen udged agant te Geek masteieeo te day

ei reatrog ahievement-teone at made al he ote olamewhen he aaaeans masered er waey wh enaed hem to d a meropoi of 30,00 n a emote dee anyon agets ony nhes of an ea year

avng wae ike eos gain teaataean Ueed ed ore onevd , payd ove managed y devng eaoae yems of ydaus a maeu even now te neen msae of ea ndeds ses p Pea fom dyng ofL n me of dougt we mondamn e suundng poeed e ty ma d aer bu f a.

a ind o annng ld f agantdaya an, o wom Peta premn a oen of aaeoga eareweg esn about w s o xavaeand peseve he ie whle eaping enmene rm he wolds gowng nteet n

Wh n oil eld and ew naura eoeJdan ges he tsand of tors woome pourig down e i o Pea a joyoly a anal n e dee he haengew e to kee oo of vss om

iF :' ignmets hav k herfom Midwt to lhc dde Eas, hereh p mny piu d hotograhng hs tofom bk o

r Y .-' t

Ce ph heN pi -a ia ph h m ii A Si p A P pp p. B h R x xp N m h

sweepng away e vy a a make epae une

IIJRS'r M:T Hamd aedou n aaaaean tomb, nd evn thr maete an mpeon was oy aedawn n a tne ambe welve feeqare and x ee nder m

naed ony y te muy pume o ayigat ed he k mney wed ed o ge n

e wee xavag bene he u f a eny D yanne n eaand te d wa aready i enogh to mf

e e growl of amo ve a be avdhunk o ad paed and om a naygave, ten deed tem genly oo teeen o my woden er 1 wold ke esand rog as pannng fo god anamodi wold pae o e te deb e end ukng ou d o pey winge as nt ad pee a te o a d

122 NO/1 GECitiH, DBMR 198Copyght Naonal Geogrphic Socie2Al Rgh ed


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Lookout n ledge, Bedois wach asa grop of u dme A Khazeh

(h Tu) hos/ Nabata tim i .tl ukow. Sued byCopyg Naonal Geogrphic Socie 20Al Rgh ed


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Jorda' pac y wh I o up nfd since 19,

oog he eoo g abt psat.Copyg Naonal Geogrphic Socie 20Al Rgh ed


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H, h' ny sy-"iewih isissv k hs ets woulmpt th ir it t hoow gve I astadig i.

s he ro th tob rgh, a I cu see t eug f Hmudur i kafyeh to r of m H ws lBoor li rka ha a ac ase as a hike, wth a on t k an aharp it tt wa k a ae

te ae I gtn t kn au, Iu ook ast 1a rr ihs su an h k r itg xr ov of ele tat ook n r lt t k t atallvyBu tn the re

Wit s t Hau s sethn ag o gt w it h y or prty gir h he t a rc of h, Bbz!

rhog oiyHa s

elebaed s pofiam n i gy o o whh gud io o o st ia s ts enu at eta

ew yr go oi s ggig it rJis of ohr Byzat urh the Aean Cene etal esea o r svee huh slls bat bn hn h uig bu ) 6 but wr sti gi Expbiv hese es al le eta al t t m th ity at tRns k tl in o 06 a eute caaa ta aa a

Rm l an zatt e u ta la ui abvau e st Naataea tm oot ny w tn tvg r r t za rgy ov t e e lg Eathquakes .D 36 a aan 551 ok wt w of h t, thoug t rr r ror

L J>BM 9Copyght Naonal Geogrphic Socie2Al Rgh ed


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Mag read he Bedonwon ho met oera amprhah a-Bedo pepe e nhe et knrhere 1ey pndhe mmer e1dg oag we ataen e A eogrde oPera, herse x f her te h-dren n a av ea hey cene t fter hey wa made a worldherage e n he

geen moed hehoandmemer Bedoe o Um Syhn vage oderbohoue Though h

hoos 1d thevge ee a heweahe s war.o oe kes hoe zyh sys er sonMahmod who wa nnewhen he ay e hee e s or hoe.

mages as late 58. te te ci was orsaken ossiby becse the aaen ca-nes a cistes, ong gced had edwth sn Petra may simly ave run ry

Thirtee euries of smdstors d oodspa


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sad momens ar a ite boy lissy urinatd in front of us on th santon stps oftJ Trasury, Ptras mos mos uilding Toovdvop i fo touism without potctngthes antiquiie s a huge mistake"

A look at th satisics expains why th

cusodians of Pa gh feg ovr-whelmd I 1991 jus 41 pople vsidth si; last yar narly t ims hat nmdd reec ing ]ordan>s eace treaty with saeland ts ptation aoad as a aily pac-ful coe of h Middl East

o handl h inlx, orda cnly bo-owed om 23 million doars fo te WordBak to bild w oads touist facilties andothr infastructu in Wad Musa, th boom-town tat has gow u aound the ntanc oPa Only a smal amoun is st asd fo sitpresevation.

My rst job s to clean p Pa says KamMahadin of e Pra Regoa PlannigCounci a loca govnt urau that willadminist the Wold 13ak fndng

Folowg a mast plan appovd by thvaros consituncis he serves Mahadinbegan y edsigg t ntc Lo th sit,which as cnly as 996 was a clod of ros-coloed dus and ose led with vendosbggas kids on donkeys for hi, al swilingaround a nes of stonfaced tourists itennis shoes Today th ara s a roadway

Mahadn has also tund his atnion to t

douin vdors isid Ptra, dcing thatti mdly of souvni stands restaantsad aimal rides b reorganzd nto cooperative vntes Designd to potct the acha-ology ad ak th st mor psntabl,hes changes fctivy limi vndos to afractio of thir fomr ncoms. s one mightpct, Mahadis ofce in Wdi Musa wasimmediatey besiegd with ngy edouin,

Lci cnls c d nd

it ( t nt) t l boPetr ily e Nb' kil t cp-in and conrolng rinwr- i d1 t s onl bo iin of rin : Hoy eunn bu Pt nineii wi Nbn niqes."Tous r bsolt ni

many of whom dnd o tousm fo a livglt's not asy to manag a livng antiquity tha

popl wil cr an ocan to s, ad th gov-emnt s seekng a fr solutio ea asmay hsads," Mahadin sighs. vrybodyloves he We now that mass toursm hrts the

sit, bu we cat st clos th ga ith

HERE QUET GRANEUR tera ta elud th casual touristmany of whom tk dow t qto he asu and ack ou aganwthout pausing long an h

time i takes to by a bote of water ad aPtra ordan Tshi Ths is actly what Idi h rst im 1 visitd giving te plce afw os on sping aftrnoo sing onya faction of tb urd sar miles tatoda s aside as a natonal pak 193

Fom its cn ta nds for mils in aldetios alog a nwok of wadis o dry ivrbds ad old caavan oads ta onc movedfankincense from Oman to Gaa and bracletsof gold from wokshos Alppo to th sqsof Yemen In recent years Ive rtraced hoserouts and fel psnc of th ancinworld in vything from h plaintive ravelng songs of the Bdouin to he sandpapeswish of a caml's oof on sandstone, ach asbig as a saad pla so as a paw

m poks along hapadly br, movgto th v channg hyt of su and gass

and goats On atrnoon amoudi and Idropped by he mes te at a weddig feastna ida a tnd wadi tha sves aseta's bac door amodi who is at boanwh, fodd his lak a gracey ontoshadd mattesses afte geeting the goomsfae wih feven ksses on both cheeksamoudi ddnt know this famiyty wrof a dfrn tribu for aU anyon w might hav bn a logost broer.

nvtaly th n of dar desrt acesued to meh whie g i a kayh try-g ot to wce fom th glass of scalding ta

hd n andd Wihout taking thir eys oe th asd Hamoudi where was om Hisrspone stired te coersaon and mod itin my dicon

mrica? sd oe of the yonger mno you know Muhamad Ali"

In th Petra backcout you stil nd somof amoudis trib call th doul dwling

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A st pal aiam Nabataea tms as f the cy ee Ste ve

400 sqae zes Pt ies es cAvs Its es e



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wr ie /m sg mis hgh as Pra li r

Rm Bi l h hals l wih s a wee s.



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Pe' heyda ene we th Rmas rou i e sec e.D e1ig e lg ene. I - Bze hhahaooss fo ae mosis (bve) he her e on,Tm h so sos eg fe he 1ig R ao n he Sqhe n Pene rhnnes si lg aw igh "hrehs er is st1rgr'' says o hos E a e smh e

in cavs as hy hav f cutis Fo m thishma dimsi is ha bahs lf tPta ad lvats h plac fm se ic t sblm-lhogh dstad hy most hBd icdig Haodi ad his ly, Livtoay i gvm hss i Um Sahw1a dary ittl vlag ab l,SOO vlkig h la hy c cald h

Af a as ma a NECO ld hiag sit 985 th ib movd f thcavs at h gvs rqs ad ita dstadig that thy' coti kig sid as achaolgists labs

ad vds i gazig thi goats ib csid. I mm SahJ1 th dolhav accs t schols lciy ad halhca-svics that av ac ti ivs

Y if t t o is fo chd,adi doi t th co old pf slp i th op v igh I act, yf th villags vash i th coysid

a th rs sig o am at, a oso say hd saly cap thoos o th govm hss d thoghsd it a vilag, h B sill kohs vst g b h ay l s Wha ist ads oT i h dst a idsp ddatd, its t h amy, hih gadsPta tha ds him vivs m, a bigshm i th ack o a cal th bd f apcp s o of h d

T

HE V hat gtf Chis sils t ta ad o t

Ama a Damascs pas aa assiv tcp pal yladto a ils m

th ct ctr h Bdol cal tbis hamassath "sy plac; ad i o sty ad tf a it's a good pac k

ad this h day I soppd t slaig agais a am ock as cagt my

132 C B\ 1



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b;h r w ni ci c h wywh v chnn 1n hnyng b. r m w r ini n w h chn hcrnr h kir rck m cvr i t rn rn r r i f ch b inwh h cnr h nn h chn y m wi rhrh bin n nh c hni in rrphp in 1 cp w h rim prin in 1 wnhin b bck. w ch

i h b I r in ph w wk r brh n rchi

m f Nbn ki. i Hmi Mhm B i23 n h ny Jnin n rcr gwp i cin n rn niri in r En chy. r h b inr in y n Y

PETRA, AN(JJ> CIY OF SON

wh 1 hw him h r i c cirn w ny c

Y n m inr Mh Ii "H y bn br?

Ony hn ,' h "Irw p hr Ery mr y wrh r cp righ h yhi rc hi i h ci f my fhr

H ch c y cnnwr iin h n brh i p hbm. hn h k hi irpc hbri r h r n k nrin rink

ic 1 c h , in h w mn I w in hw cri rn m r mn r n w hb n ncin ciy mh in pp h y hi

"B is i Nn? "O cr i Mhmwih mici

i "Ty f i y fhr O


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