Pet Me Magazine MarApril 2016 Issue

March/April 2016

Your Guide To All Things Pets

PLUS:Bites and Lawsuits – How to Avoid ThemOCD: Obsessive Canine DisordersPet Food Ingredients You Want to Avoid & Much More!

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Pet Me! Magazine™ MARCH/APRIL 2016

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MARCH/APRIL 2016

Contents

PUBLISHERBridget Alves

EDITORCaroline Squires

ART DIRECTOR Doug Conboy

COVER PHOTOThat Spunky Monkey Photography

PUBLISHED BYPet Me! Publications

Find Us On Facebook and TwitterPet Me! Magazine

4 Potty Training 101

10 Bites and Lawsuits – How to Avoid Them

12 OCD: Obsessive Canine Disorders

16 Pet Food Ingredients You Want to Avoid When Feeding Your Dog

18 Keep Your Skinny Kitty from Growing into a Fat Cat

20 Cat Adoptables

22 Which Bird is Best?

23 Directory for All Things Pets

Puppy and kitten season will soon be upon us! As pet owners welcome a new

four-legged companion into their home, it’s important for them to teach proper

potty training. Our feature article, Potty Training 101, helps guide pet owners

through the process in an effort to provide useful information to get their pet

house trained in no time!

Spring is a time of year that tends to bring more animals to our local shelters.

One reason is that puppy and kitten season brings more pets that need a

home. If no one claims a puppy or kitten, some pet owners will take leftover

littermates to the shelter. Please consider adopting from our local shelters and

rescues if you are looking to add a pet to your home.

Our other feature article, OCD: Obsessive Canine Disorders, provides dog owners

with information about what it is, what causes it, how to treat it, and how to

care for a dog that has it. Sometimes dogs can exhibit abnormal behaviors and

it’s important to consult your veterinarian to seek professional help for your pet.

It may or may not be related to OCD, but being able to diagnose a problem is

the first step to hopefully solving it or at least managing it.

As always, thank you for your wonderful email and kind support. Please

continue sending your input as it assists us in providing you with the information

you want. We appreciate the privilege of bringing you Pet Me! Magazine.

Bridget AlvesPublisherPet Me! Magazine

On the Cover:

Our featured cover kitten Dre is available for adoption.

Everyone loves Dre! There are no words to describe this incredible kitten.

He is as full of love as he is of energy. He is just as content to snuggle in bed

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Whether you have a puppy or dog that needs to be potty trained right now or you are getting ready to take on potty training in the future, Potty Training

101 is here to help you!Every puppy presents different challenges, but there are

common instincts that will facilitate the house training process. This article details a training program with techniques that will house train your new addition as soon as possible and foster a trusting and loving relationship between you and your pup.

It’s normal for a young puppy to be a little ‘input-output’ machine. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! Puppies have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can’t ‘hold it’ as long as adult dogs.

Puppies need time to developed a “den” instinct to cause them to want to ‘hold it’ and not soil the den, i.e., your entire house. In their litter, puppies just go whenever and wherever


they happen to be! Successful house training depends upon your diligent supervision so you can be there to show your pup where to eliminate.

It’s important to keep in mind that a puppy is not completely housetrained until they are 6 months old and for some breeds it can be even later. This means that though you may be making tremendous progress housetraining, there will be accidents.

House Training Tips:• Give your puppy frequent access to his potty area - pre-

vent soiling in the house.• Reward the pup for peeing or pooping in the right place

- use a special treat.• Never punish the pup for housetraining accidents - scold-

ing has dire consequences.• Put your puppy on a regular and timely feeding schedule

- in/out clockwork.• Every time the puppy goes potty or when you are waiting

Potty Training101 By Caroline Squires



for him to go, use the word you want to associate with training him to go. For example, you might repeat, “Go potty, good boy! Good potty!” This will train him to un-derstand what you want him to do, which is go potty in the designated spot.

How often do puppies have to potty?Most puppies have to eliminate about every 30-45 minutes

except, of course, when sleeping. Their elimination schedule will depend upon when they last ate or drank water; rambunc-tious physical activity, and the big unknown - personal prefer-ence!

That’s right - every pup has his or her own inherent elimi-nation schedule.

If your puppy is not sleeping in her crate or pen, and is out in the house, you must follow her around to know what she is doing: chewing a bone, running circles, getting a drink of water, etc. In fact, don’t take your eye off of her! If you cannot watch her continuously, you must put her back into her pen or crate to prevent potty training accidents.

Regular feedings will house train a puppy faster:It’s very important to put your puppy on a regular and

timely feeding schedule; what goes in on a regular schedule will come out on a regular schedule. Every pup is different; some poop immediately after eating; with others it may be 30 minutes to an hour after eating. Unless advised by your vet for some medical reason, do not free-feed. That is, do not leave food out all the time because your pup’s elimination schedule will be random at best.

Always leave water out for your puppy. Check the water bowl frequently to note how much she is drinking and to make sure the water bowl is full.

The best way to potty train a puppy:Confinement to a small area such as a bathroom or an enclosed

exercise pen in combination with confinement to a crate works best.

This method is the most effective and flexible. Your pup needs to develop his natural “den instinct” and learn where to eliminate - and where not to.

Choose a designated potty area for house training:So, where do you want to train your puppy to always potty

and poop? The puppy potty area needs to be accessible very quickly.

• If you live in a high rise apartment, or a street level apart-ment or home with DIFFICULT outdoor access, use a bathroom or pen in the home for housetraining.

• If, however, you live in a street level apartment or home with EASY outdoor access, use a specific, very close out-door location.

continued on page 6



Get the items you need for housetraining and set up the household:

• A few bottles of Nature’s Miracle or similar product to remove urine and fecal stains and odor. Place these in a central or multiple locations in your house with paper towels.

• A crate that will fit next to your bed but only large enough to accommodate your puppy when full grown.

• An exercise pen that your puppy cannot jump out of. Put the exercise pen in a central location where you spend most of your time at home. You may want to put a tarp down first then set the pen on top of it.

• Special housetraining treats (rewards) - something small and special, reserved and used only for a housetraining reward. These treats should be kept close to the desig-nated potty area.

“House Training Taxi Service”Puppies will decide to potty or poop instantly, giving you

no warning. So many times when housetraining, a puppy is led to the door and on the way they just stop and do their business. This usually happens because the puppy has not de-veloped enough bladder or bowel control yet to “hold it” until they get to the potty area or they simply don’t know where the

potty area is yet. Not only has the pup had an accident, but you have lost a chance to reward for going in the right place.

The key to house training is preventing accidents and reward-ing the puppy for going in your chosen spot.

“House Training Taxi Service” is simply picking the puppy up into your arms, taking them to the designated toilet area, setting them down and praising them for going where you want. If you are going outside, put a collar and leash on the pup immediately after picking them up, unless the toilet area is safely enclosed and escape proof.

When should you provide “House Training Taxi Service”?• Immediately upon your puppy waking up (morning,

noon, or night).• Immediately after they finish eating, get a big drink of

water, and after excited play• When you think they might have to go - about every 45

minutes. Better too often than too late! • When your puppy whines in the crate in the middle of

the night or whines in their pen during the day. Take them out to potty, reward for going and put them right back.

• When your puppy is standing at the door to the outside. Why not just let them out, you say? Well, he may not make it all the way to the potty area.

continued from page 5



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For how long should you provide “House Training Taxi Service”?

Taxi your pup for about one month (until the pup is about 3 months old as this should give the pup enough time to de-velop some bladder and bowel control). By doing so, you will prevent many mistakes.

If you have a large breed puppy and can’t pick them up, slip on a leash quickly and “rush” them to the potty area, do not stop until you are there!

House Training Warnings - “I’m gonna go!”Guess what, you get no warning before a young puppy is

about to potty! They just squat and do it...in an instant. So, if they potty in the wrong place, you didn’t take them to their potty area soon enough - plain and simple.

However, with a poop you might get some warning - sometimes sniffing; usually circling by the puppy. By paying close attention to your puppy when they are out and about in the house, you may get a heads-up.

What to do if you catch your puppy in the act of a potty training accident:

If pup is peeing in the wrong place, you may be able to stop him. Move quickly towards him when he begins to pee and pick him up. Urgency is key here - you want to startle the pup just a

little as you move towards them to pick them up, but you DO NOT want to scare the pup. You are redirecting your puppy to the right spot - not disciplining him. Immediately after pick-ing him up, take him to the potty area and patiently wait. Most pups will finish there. Reward your pup with exuberance!

If the pup is pooping... let them finish. Puppies are not able to shut off a poop like they can shut off a pee. More likely than not, you’ll just create a huge mess by trying to interrupt a poop.

As always, never make a big deal about cleaning up after your puppy when an accident occurs.

continued on page 8

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Housetraining at your bedtime and when you wake up:Just before you go to bed and turn out the lights, go get your puppy,

no matter where she may be, asleep or not, and taxi her to the potty area. Reward and praise as always for eliminating. Put her in the crate next to your bed and retire for the night.

First thing in the morning, take her out of the crate and taxi her to the potty area. Return her to the crate or pen unless you are able to supervise her without distraction. Feeding is usually next up. Feed your pup breakfast around the same time each morning and in the same location.

Passive house training when you are NOT home:Confine your puppy to his, ‘puppy-proofed’ bathroom or an exer-

cise pen and paper (or wee-wee pad) the entire floor. Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go everywhere and anywhere. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don’t get upset; just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.

While your puppy is confined to the bathroom or his pen, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established




and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, gradually re-duce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is farthest away from his chosen location. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that place only. If he ever misses the paper, then you’ve reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area.

Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you’ve left, slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers a little bit each day. If your puppy misses the paper, you’re moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don’t be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire area. This is normal.

House training when you ARE home:When you are home but can’t attend to your puppy, follow

the same procedures described above. However, the more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker he will be house trained. Your objective is to take your puppy to his potty area every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 30-45 minutes; just upon waking; just after eating or drinking; and just after a play session. Provide house training taxi service to avoid unnecessary accidents.

When your pup does eliminate in his potty area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don’t use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or accidents. Your

puppy is too young to understand and it can set the house training process back drastically.

Don’t allow your puppy freedom outside of his room or pen unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out, don’t let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is exploring your home. He can’t get into trouble if you are at-tached to the other end of the leash. Never, ever tie the puppy’s leash to something and leave the puppy unattended.

As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his potty area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room or pen with you in the rest of your home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise him, put him back in his room or pen.

The key to successful house training:Consistency and patience. Never scold or punish your

puppy for mistakes and accidents. The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his bladder and bowels. Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to “hold it” for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop. Don’t forget, most puppies are not completely house trained until they are 6 months old.




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Bites and Lawsuits – How to Avoid Them

When a dog feels threatened, odds are it’s going to bite someone (or at least attempt to). It’s in their bones, in their genes, it’s what they do. It’s why

you can find signs for sale at the hardware store that state, in bold letters: “BEWARE OF DOG;” and it’s why particular dog breeds will instill a sense of apprehension in passersby. Every year about two-million people are bitten by dogs, ac-cording to the CDC.

When someone is bitten by a dog, the law is typically on their side. This means that the owner of the dog will be held responsible for the actions of their pet. If it goes to court, own-ers of a dog who bites someone can be on the hook for the victim’s medical care, lost wages resulting from the dog bite, and even psychological care. If the dog was provoked, or if the injured person was trespassing, the owner of the dog may not be held responsible. However, it’s very difficult to prove these things afterward (often boiling down to one person’s word against the other) and avoiding the situation entirely is usually the best bet.

The first step in avoiding being the owner of a dog who bites people is, of course, training. The better trained your dog is to obey your commands, the lesser the odds of them biting someone. If you’re well-versed in canine training

techniques, by all means, feel free to train your dog yourself. However, if you’re the owner of a breed that has a reputation for being physical (and this is not necessarily a bad thing, guard dogs save lives), you may want to enlist the help of a certified trainer.

The second step, which in reality should happen simul-taneously with the first step, is to adequately socialize your dog to be around other people and animals. A basic obedi-ence class can go a long way to helping your animal feel more comfortable around other dogs and humans, and it can be achieved while training your pet to answer your commands.

Finally, according to the Humane Society of the United States, dogs that have not been spayed or neutered are three-times more likely to bite someone than dogs that have under-gone the procedure.

Dogs over the age of four months with the jurisdiction is required to be spayed or neutered unless the dog cannot be altered with a high likelihood of suffering serious bodily harm as determined by a licensed veterinarian. (Los Angeles County Code Sec. 10.20.350, et seq.)

Responsible pet parenting save time, money and head-aches.

By Bridget Alves




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OCDObsessive Canine DisOrDersBy Caroline Squires

Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder, or OCD, in humans is characterized by unreasonable thoughts and fears (obsessions) that lead you to do repetitive behaviors

(compulsions). It’s also possible to have only obsessions or only compulsions and still have OCD. But the question is: can dogs have OCD? The answer: Not really, but they do get compulsive behaviors. Compulsive behaviors are defined as repetitive se-quences of behavior that are fairly consistent in their presenta-tion. Although some argue that they function to reduce a dog’s stress level, they do not appear to serve any obvious purpose.

What are Compulsive Disorders in Dogs?Veterinarians describe these behaviors as exaggera-

tions of normal dog behaviors. They are exhibited for longer than expected periods of time, are

repeated out of context, and in situations in which they would be considered abnormal.

One of the first behaviors considered representative of a compulsive disorder

in dogs is repetitive licking of the lower extremities of the legs. Other com-

mon dog behaviors which can be classified as compulsive include: spinning, tail chasing, shadow chasing, fly snapping, repetitive circling, fence running, pacing, light chasing, barking, chewing, licking, staring into space, suck-ing on a toy, or sucking on a part of the bodymay also be manifesta-tions of compulsive behavior.

What Causes Compulsive Disorders in Dogs?

According to Lisa Radosta, DVM,“compulsive disorders are caused by conflict, stress and/or frustration. With each stress-ful event that a dog encoun-ters, there is a release of neu-rotransmitters involved with the stress response. When a

dog is frustrated or stressed, he may start to perform a normal behavior such as holding a toy in his mouth in order to relieve that stress. If holding the toy in his mouth actually reduces the neurotransmitters involved with the stressful event, the dog is likely to perform that be-havior again when he is stressed. For some dogs, this behavior becomes ritualized and repetitive because of the intense re-ward that is associated ?reduction of the physiologic feeling of stress or frustration.”

She explains, “Over time, compulsive behaviors progress and get worse. Dogs often start to perform the compulsive




behavior with any stressful event, not just the original incit-ing situation. The behavior can take over the dog’s life replac-ing normal sleep and feeding habits. It can cause injury to the dog as the impulse to perform the particular behavior becomes stronger and stronger. Dogs that chase their tails often end up mutilating the tail requiring amputation, while dogs that suck on themselves frequently cause skin infections.”

However, sometimes what appears to be a compulsive behav-ior is actually an attention seeking behavior. Even behaviors that start as frustration-related behaviors can be rewarded inadver-tently when owners pay attention to the dog when he performs the behavior. For example, if an owner yells No!, that is still re-garded by the dog as attention and can perpetuate the behavior.

If you think that your dog exhibits a behavior for your at-tention, try the following tests. First, videotape your dog when you are not home to see if and when the behavior occurs in your absence. Next, try walking out of the room the next time that your dog performs the behavior. If he does not perform the behavior in your absence, your attention or presence is most probably a part of the problem.

Some dog breeds are predisposed hereditarily to certain compulsive behaviors. For example, Bull Terriers and German Shepherds are commonly seen for tail chasing. Labrador Re-trievers exhibit oral compulsive behaviors such as pica , where-by the dog is driven to pick up any object and eat it. Doberman Pinschers are well known for flank sucking, whereby the dog

holds and sucks on the skin of the flank for long periods. The best way to know if your dog is predisposed to a certain type of behavior is to speak to your veterinarian about your breed’s genetic predisposition. Then, if possible, speak to the owner of your dog’s parents to learn of their behavior.

How Do You Treat Compulsive Disorders in Dogs?The first thing to do if you think that your dog has a com-

pulsive disorder is to go to your veterinarian for help. Because medical conditions can cause signs similar to compulsive be-haviors in dogs, it is extremely important to rule out medical diseases such as neurologic, endocrine, gastrointestinal, and orthopedic disorders. A complete physical examination by a veterinarian and a consultation with a behavior specialist is recommended to confirm a diagnosis of compulsive behavior. The owner should be prepared to provide a detailed descrip-tion of the behavior, the duration and frequency of bouts, and situations in which the behavior typically occurs.

If your dog is completely healthy and is free of pain, he may have a compulsive disorder. Compulsive disorders are treated with medications to lower arousal and conflict as well as behavior modification to give the dog an alternate coping strategy outside of the compulsive behavior. Treatment is often prolonged and continues for the life of the dog. If your dog

continued on page 14



is diagnosed with compulsive disorder, you can expect some ups and downs in treatment and in your dog’s behavior. Often chronic cases are re-ferred to a board certified veterinary behaviorist for treatment.

If the behavior is triggered by conflict the dog is experiencing on a regular basis, try to eliminate the stressor or, if possible, attempt to desensitize the dog to the situation.

Whenever the dog is engaged in the com-pulsive behavior, he should be ignored. Both mild punishment and reassurance can reward the dog’s unwanted behavior by supplying the owner’s attention. Punishment has the poten-tial to increase the dog’s anxiety and worsen the condition.

Although there are no medications approved to treat compulsive disorders in dogs, some success has been achieved with antidepressants prescribed for similar disorders in humans.

Home Care for Dogs with Compulsive BehaviorsThe expression of compulsive behavior is often a manifes-

tation of environmental anxiety or stress. Compulsive behav-

iors often develop in response to a specific situation but may become generalized to any situation in which the animal ex-periences conflict. Emotional conflict can arise from environ-mentally induced anxiety as well as inconsistent interactions between the owner and the dog.

When a dog is repeatedly placed in a situation of conflict, the threshold for the performance of the repetitive behavior decreases so that the behavior may be eventually manifested




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when there is any increase in activity arousal. Eventually a dog with compulsive behavior loses control over the behavior. At this stage, the behavior will occur in non-stressful situations.

Conditions known to trigger anxiety in susceptible dogs include relatively benign experiences that would not have a negative impact on most dogs.

Potential triggers for a susceptible dog include: • Inadequate social interaction with owners• Owners departures and returns • Environmental change (e.g. boarding at kennel) • Changes in social arrangement (introduction or departure

of people or pets) • Particular sounds (storms, vacuums, yard machinery, tele-

phones, microwave bells, running water) • Lack of mental and physical stimulation appropriate for

the dog’s breed and ageProviding appropriate aerobic exercise, regular daily obe-

dience training, and stimulating toys can help reduce a dog’s inclination to perform a compulsive behavior. Providing a dog with a job that incorporates his breed-specific needs and mak-ing sure he receives adequate social stimulation are important. For many dogs, arranging a predictable routine for feeding, exercise and social interaction can reduce their anxiety level.



Pet Food Ingredients You Want to Avoid When Feeding Your DogBy Bridget Alves

Reading the labels on the food we buy is becom-ing increasingly more important as time goes on. Of-ten, companies will sneak in unsavory ingredients and chemicals into the food we eat that can have detrimen-tal effects on our health. Unfortunately, pet food is no different. If you’re in the habit of reading the labels on your food (and you should be), then get into the habit of reading the labels on your pet’s food, too. When you do, you’ll want to watch out for these 5 ingredients:

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1. Propylene Glycol – This is a common chemical used as a preservative in pet food that helps reduce moisture and in-hibit bacterial growth. Unfortunately, propylene glycol’s anti-bacterial effects carry over into your dog’s digestive system and harm the helpful bacteria there that assist in the digestion of food. Oh, and it’s also found in anti-freeze.

2. Corn (or Corn Syrup) – Corn is a major crop in the US and is pretty cheap, therefore corn or corn syrup is found in just about everything – including pet food. Corn is often used as a filler in pet food because it’s so inexpensive. Unfortu-nately, it’s also high in sugar and can lead to diabetes, obesity, hyperactivity and other issues in your pets. Corn is also prone to developing fungi and molds overtime that can cause major health problems in animals – including death.

3. Ethoxyquin – This is another preservative commonly found in dog food. If the name “ethoxyquin” sounds like a poi-son to you, it’s because it is. Originally developed as an herbi-cide, ethoxyquin in pet food has been known to lead to severe kidney and liver damage in dogs, as well as cancer, a signifi-cantly inhibited immune system, leukemia and blindness.

4. BHT/BHA – Butylated – hydroxinasole (BHA) and bu-tylated – hydroxytoluene (BHT) are found in pet and people food. BHA is a preservative linked with kidney failure in both pets and people, and BHT has been linked with cancer in people & animals. If you see either of these ingredients in anything, get rid of it.

5. “By Products” – This typically refers to the parts of an animal that isn’t muscle meat. It can be skin, organs (often diseased) and even tumors. You don’t want “by products” in your food, and you don’t want them in your pet’s food either.

If you want to know what to feed your dog, ask an ex-pert. Your veterinarian is also a great choice. Also, many lo-cal pet stores have an informed staff educated in pet health. Either way, there are plenty of pet food options out there that won’t break the bank and will leave your pet full, happy and healthy.




Pet Me! Magazine™

Keep Your Skinny Kitty from Growing into a Fat Cat

18




Animals can gain weight and become obese just like the rest of us. When cats are overweight, they are at serious risk of contracting obesity-related diseases

like: type 2 diabetes, osteoarthritis, heart disease, high blood pressure and kidney disease. Additionally, obese cats are much more difficult for veterinarians to treat. They are more likely to die during surgery, less tolerant of warm temperatures and are far less disease resistant. Below are a few tips to help keep your feline friend trim, or to get them to slim down if they’ve already gained a significant amount of weight.

• Feed your cat wet food instead of dry. Wet food has a higher protein content than dry food (which has more carbs), and cats are natural carnivores. Feeding them the type of food that they’re biologically accustomed to is a good start to maintaining their weight.

• Limit treats. We all love our pets, which can sometimes make it difficult not to give them treats or table scraps (especially when they ask so nicely). Unfortunately, too much snacking has the same effect on cats and dogs as it does on people.

• Control your cat’s portions and only feed them twice a day. Cats are less likely to overeat than dogs are, which leads a lot of cat owners to leave their cat’s food out so they can just eat when they’re hungry. If food is always available, the cat may start overeating and gaining weight.

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To curb this behavior, feed your cat once in the morning and once in the evening, and make sure to measure out consistent portions.

Last but not least, play with your cat often and give them toys – especially if you live in a small house or apartment. When there’s nowhere to go and nothing to do, cats can get sedentary and start putting on weight. Forcing your cat to ex-ercise by taking time out to play with them and providing toys for when you’re not around can help give them the stimula-tion and exercise they need to properly utilize the calories that they take in each day.


Furever Purr RescueTo adopt one of these pets, please contact us at (661) 255-9979 or (818) 635-6473. All of our kitties are spayed/neutered, up-to-date on shots, micro-chipped, de-wormed, treated for fleas, and have been tested for FeLV/FIV. Several of our cats and kittens are showcased locally at the Shelter Hope Pet Shop in the Valencia Town Center Mall.

Photos courtesy of That Spunky Monkey Photography.

One-Eyed Jack My name is Jack and I am 6 months old. My life got off to a very rough start and in the process I ended up losing

my left eye. You’d never know it though I play and have fun just like any other kitten with both eyes! I am super healthy and love other kitties and love people too. I am a total snuggler. They call me One-Eyed Jack!

Gorgeous Ginger My name is Ginger and I’m two years old. I was rescued from the shelter where I was dumped with my babies – only one of them survived. He has now been adopted and is in a home of his own. I’m still waiting for that special person to see my face and just know that they can’t live without me. I would do great as an only cat. I’m a lap kitty looking for a lap to call my own.

Little Willie aka Loverboy My name is Willie and I am 6 months old. Some things you should know about me... I am super friendly and very needy. Yes, I admit it – I’m needy! My mother abandoned us when I was just a baby, and I was bottle fed by my foster mom. I love to be around my human all of the time! I get along with other kitties too. My brother Jack is still here in foster care with me. I would like to be adopted into a house with another cat or kitten.

Darling Daphne and her playful brother Apollo Our names are Daphne and Apollo and we are 6 months old. Both our mom and dad were rescued from the shelter and our mom was pregnant. Our dad is a Maine Coon and we will be big when we grow up. We are both very friendly, love to play, and like other kitties too.

Because... Every cat deserves to purr forever.



Stunning Shirley I’m easy on the eyes

My name is Shirley and I am 2 years old. My family dropped me at the shelter, and I became sick and almost didn’t make it out. I was feeling really lousy, but now I’m healthy and feeling great, and I’m ready to give someone a second chance. I’m hoping someone will take a chance on me. I’m a very friendly girl and would love to find a family of my own.

Paris Our Diamond in the rough

Calling all Torti lovers! Pick me! Pick me! My name is Paris and I am 7 years old, and I am patiently waiting for someone to give me a second chance. When I was 5, my family

decided they didn’t want me anymore. They took me to the shelter where I was very frightened, and I growled and hissed at people. My behavior put me on the list to not make it out of the shelter. A rescue took a chance on me. They say I need patience and time with someone who is cat savvy. I need to learn to trust again. I’ve been living in a large cage for the past two years, and I sure would love to have a family again. I lived with small children before, but my current foster mom thinks I would do best in an adult-only home with someone who gets the true personality traits of a Torti and enjoys my Torti-tude. If you would like to take a chance on me, don’t waste time – come meet me right away!

Showy Sheena My name is Sheena. I am an extra cuddly super-friendly kitty. I love other cats and kittens. I love humans. I’ve

been known to give kisses the first time we meet. That’s right--I’m not shy! I’m hoping and praying to find a family to call my own. My foster mom says that I come with a 100% guarantee that you will fall in love with

me. She’s right! Please schedule a time to meet me.

Because... Every cat deserves to purr forever.www.fureverpurrrescue.org



Pet Me! Magazine™ MARCH/APRIL 2016 !

Pet Me! Magazine™Pet Me! Magazine™22

Which

Bird is Best?

Birds can be wonderful pets, provided you know what you’re getting into be-forehand. Birds can be messy (just ask any statue), and they can require a lot of care to keep them healthy. Depending on the circumstances surrounding your

home and you lifestyle, one of the most important choices you’re going to need to make if you decide to get a pet bird is: which kind of bird fits your way of life?

Some birds make better pets than others, and it’s strongly recommended by both seasoned bird owners and the Human Society of the US that people choose a type that has been selectively bred and considered domesticated. Birds that fall into this category will typically include: canaries, finches, parakeets, cockatiels, and lovebirds. It’s not uncommon to find people with pet parrots, macaws or cockatoos, but these birds haven’t gone through generations of breeding to make them amenable to living

in a cage their entire lives. That being said, owning one can be considered cruel.All that being said, here are a few things to think about when deciding which type of bird

you’d like to own:• Looking for just one pet bird? Canaries like to be alone. If you don’t mind getting more

than one, cockatiels, lovebirds and finches love company.• If you want a bird that you can teach to talk, look into parakeets and cockatiels. Some spe-

cies of these birds can be taught to mimic human words. Make sure to find out from your local pet store which ones can be taught to speak and just how extensive their vocabulary can become.

• Disposition is extremely important to take into consideration when deciding which bird to buy. Canaries and finches don’t much care for human contact. Canaries prefer to be alone, but finches love being around other finches. Parakeets and cockatiels, though, are incredibly smart and often relish contact with humans. If you’re looking for something to add a bit of music to your home, but don’t necessarily need to handle it much, think canary – an excellent singer. If you’d prefer a smart, cheerful pal to sit on your shoulder and periodically squawk “pieces of eight, pieces of eight,” then a parakeet or cockatiel may be right up your alley.


!Clip &

Save!

DirectoryPetsfor all thingsAnimal Aftercare

Cal Pet Crematory(310) 278-0633(818) 983-2313(323) 875-0633www.calpet.com

Guardian Animal Aftercare(818) 768-6465www.guardianaftercare.com

PawpularPet Suppliers

Fox Feed17028 Sierra HighwayCanyon Country, 91387(661) 252-9790www.foxfeed.com

Dermatology for Pets

Amy Shumaker, DVM, DACVDValencia Veterinary Center23928 Summerhill Lane Valencia, CA 91354 (661) 855-4870www.dermatologyforanimals.com

Animal Control Centers

Castaic Animal Shelter31044 N. Charlie Canyon Rd.Castaic(661) 257-3191www.animalcare.lacounty.gov

Lancaster Animal Shelter 5210 W. Ave. ILancaster, CA 93536(661) 940-4191www.animalcare.lacounty.gov

Rescue Organizations

Visit our website for a complete list of rescue organizations

Brittany FoundationAgua Dulce(661) 713-5240www.brittanyfoundationonline.org

Forgotten Angels Cat Rescue (661) 273-9822 www.forgottenangelsrescue.org


Furever Purr Rescue (818) 635-6473 [email protected] www.fureverpurrrescue.org

New Leash On Life Animal Rescue [email protected] (661) 255-0097

PetSave Foundation Bunny Rescue (661) 478-7360 www.petsave.org

Ratz Nest Rat Rescue (661) 303-7872 www.ratznest.weebly.com

Saffyre Sanctuary (Horse Rescue) Sylmar, CA www.saffyresanctuary.org

Save A Kitty, Inc. (818) 825-3096 www.SaveaKittyCA.org

Shelter Hope Pet Shop Santa Clarita 24201 Valencia Blvd. #1318Valencia, CA 91355(661) 885-4716shelterhopepetshop.org/santaclarita

Southern California Siamese Rescue http://cs.siameserescue.org/

St. Bonnie’s Sanctuary/ Lange Foundation 27567 Oak Spring Canyon Rd. Canyon Country, CA 91387 (661) 251.5590 http://langefoundation.com

Great Groomers

Precious Pets27737 Bouquet Canyon Road Suite 124 Saugus, CA 91350

Trusted Vets In and Around SCV

All Creatures Veterinary Center22722 Lyons Ave # 5Newhall, 91321-2876(661) 291-1121www.wecarevets.com

Animal Medical Center25848 McBean Parkway Valencia, 91355 (661) 255-5555 www.amcvalencia.com

Canyon Country Veterinary Hospital18840 Soledad Canyon RoadCanyon Country, 91351-3772(661) 424-9900www.wecarevets.com

Cinema Veterinary Centre23460 Cinema Drive, Unit LValencia, 91355(661) 253-9300www.cinemavet.com

Golden State Veterinary Care29629 The Old Road Castaic, 91384(661) 670-8773 www.goldenstateveterinarycare.com

Happy Pets Veterinary Center27550 Newhall Ranch Road Valencia, CA 91355 (661) 295-9972 www.happypetsveterinary.com

Peaceful PetsIn-Home Euthanasia Services(661) [email protected]

Stevenson Ranch Veterinary Center25832 Hemingway Ave.Santa Clarita, CA 91381(661) 799-0655 www.srvc.com

Valencia Veterinary Center24036 Summerhill Ln.Santa Clarita, 91354(661) 263-9000www.bestvalenciavet.com

Valley Lyons Pet Hospital24882 Apple St., Newhall, CA(661) 254-6680

VIP Veterinary Services26111 Bouquet Cyn. Rd.Suite D-5, Saugus, CA 91350 (661) 222-PETS www.VIPVeterinaryServices.com

Best Boarding Facilities

Canine Country Club20341 Blue Cloud RoadSanta Clarita, 91390-1259(661) 296-0566www.cccofscv.com

Castaic Canine Camp36975 Ridge Route RoadCastaic, 91384(661) 257-0957www.castaiccaninecamp.com

Santa Clarita’s Premier Dog LodgeTrish Cohen(661) [email protected]

Pampering Pet Sitters

Dogone-itMarlee(661) [email protected]

Pacific Pet Sitters(661) 505-6615www.pacificpetsitters.com

Alternative Medicines & Healing

Sylvia Nahale HathawayAcupressurist & Reiki Master(661) 378-8612 [email protected]

Lyons Pharmacy & Compounding Lab(661) 777-7770www.MyLyonsPharmacy.com

Canine Rehabilitation

Happy Pets Veterinary Center 27550 Newhall Ranch Rd.Valencia, CA 91355

Valencia Veterinary Center 24036 Summerhill Ln. Valencia, CA 91354



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Pet Me Magazine MarApril 2016 Issue

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