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Cooperative Extension Circulars: 1917-1950 SDSU Extension

11-1930

Patterns and NecklinesAnita Andrews

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Recommended CitationAndrews, Anita, "Patterns and Necklines" (1930). Cooperative Extension Circulars: 1917-1950. Paper 301.http://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_circ/301

SOUTH DAKOTA STATE COLLEGE

EXTENSION SERVICE

Patterns and Necklines Anita Andrews

Extension Specialist in Clothing

Design is probably the first factor to consider in choosing a pattern for a dress. However, there are a few other factors which will govern the choice. Price of some patterns is a prohibiting feature. One make of pattern may seem to fit better than another although this is probably not so true now as a year ago. However, if such has been found to be the case, it is well to continue using that make of pattern, as it will eliminate some unnecessary altering.

Realizing the need for some standardization in measurements used in patterns, representatives from the U. S. Bureau of Standards, manufact­urers, educators, consumers, and others interested in the problem, met and agreed upon certain measurements which would be used. Nearly all leading pattern concerns are now using these measurements as their basis for cutting patterns.

Standard measurements for women, approved by the pattern industry and used by the majority of the companies. (All measurements in inches.)

Waist __________ 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 Bust ___________ 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 Hip'� ___________ 37 39 41 43 45 471h 50

*Hip measurement taken 7 inches below natural waist line.

42 48 53

44 50 56

We have been led to believe for a long time that the measurements pre­viously used by these companies were ones obtaind by research embodying a large number of people. This was found to be a mistaken idea, and just where the original measurements came from has not been found. Com­panies have given various ways that these measurements were originally secured and checked, but the ways seem vague, hazy, and not very sound.

This paragraph by one who attended the conference probably sums up what really has happened. "Apparently the mnufacturers, hard put to it, have had to call in small groups of people who looked average, and mea­sure them. Their sets of proportions were then labelled perfect 36's and 38's and so on and a few inches added here or subtracted there to get pro­portions for thin people or fat ones. In other words, many of the mea­surements have been made with a lead pencil and nothing else. The same seems to have happened in the case of children's clothing. We have started to keep account of all the mothers who tell us their children are so well developed that they wear garments made for children two, three or four years older. We have about decided that all ready-to-wear clothing for children is at least two sizes too small. But as one merchant said, 'Well it makes the parents happy to think their children are large for their age.'" We have also been forced to the conclusion that many of the measure­ments now used have been inherited from a dim and distant past. No one knows just where they came from. But the fact that they are old makes them greatly respected."

The.need felt at this conference for some accurate body measurements resulted in a motion recommending that some accurate measurements, based on an average of large numbers of people, be made. It was sug­gested that the Bureau of Home Economics carry on such a study. This would eliminate, in part perhaps, the wide difference in sizes not only in patterns, but also in ready-made dresses. All this increasing standardi­zation will be of direct help to the individual consumer, for it is with him in mind that these standard studies are made.

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PATTERNS AND NECKLINES 3

Even though measurements used by all companies are the same, shapes used by each company vary. Some seem to fit the more square should­ers, others the sloping shoulder. These fitting points should always be noted when a new type of pattern is used, for it is really very foolish to continue buying a certain make of pattern, if it does not fit, when there are many others to be had.

Determination of the size of dress pattern needed should be based on bust measurements. There are, how­ever, a few exceptions. The woman with a very large bust and small shoulders will find it better to buy a pattern to fit the shoulders and alter for the bust.

Testing the Pattern There are two ways a pattern

may be chPcked or tested for size. The simpler method is to pin the pattern together and slip it on. This may be done without tearing the pat­tern, if care is used. The sleeve is pinned up, but only held in place.

The other method is to check each piece of the pattern with body mea­surements. These measurements must be taken accurately and then allowances made for the fullness desired in the garment.

Fig. 1-Four figures with 38-inch bust measure. The differences in height, neck measure, slant and width of shoulders,

waist and hip measure, position of waist­line, and other proportions would necessi­tate alterations on almost any size 38 pattern or ready-made garment for these figures.-U. S. Bureau of Home Economics.

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Alteration of Commercial Pattern Alterations should practically always be

made from the inside of the pattern so that the outer edges remain unchanged. Occa­sionally, slight ·amounts, seam allowances, etc., may be added on outside without danger to the shape.

Fig. 2-For the taller figure

Alteration to Shorten.-To shorten a dress pattern pin plaits across it. The alteration should not all be made in one place however. The normal waist line is marked on the pat­tern. Subtract length from both the waist and skirt, above and below this line if neces­sary.

Alteration to Add Length.-To lengthen a pattern, cut the pattern across, in both the waist and skirt, and spread to add the length desired.

Alteration for Rounded Shoulders.-Round-

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BACK

S. D. EXTENSION CIRCULAR 302

FRONT

cd shoulders require extra fullness in back and usually slightly less in front. To add this fullness in back, slash pattern at back '.'.ross­wise from center back towards the shoulder line and spread the slash. Pin paper under it, and straighten the center back edge. This will make the neckline larger. This fullness is needed and may be taken care of by a series of small tucks.

Alterations for Square Shoulders.-Some patterns have very sloping shoulder lines, so that alteration is quite necessary. If the shoulder seams, when pinned together stand out at the neck, make darts in front and back near the neck across the shoulder, ending in nothing at the corner of the shoulder and armseye.

Alteration for Sloping Shoulders.-For the Fig. 3-lf you ai·e short, plaits very sloping shoulders, the average shoulder remove the extra length.

seam is too straight. Begin by making a slash near the neckline on center front line and continue it to the arms­eye line. Spread until shoulder line lies flat.

Alterations for Large Hips.-If, on testing a pattern, it is found to be tight at the hips, slash front and back from lower edge to armseye and two inches from underarm and spread apart necessary amount at hip. Piece pattern to retain exact amount allowed. A sllght amount may also be allowed on seams.

Alteration for Large Bust.-To add width for a large bust the pattern should be slashed from the corner of the shoulder and armseye on a slant­ed line to hem, then on bust line cut across from center front to meet

BACK rRONf

Fig. 4-Rounded shoulders re­quire extra fullness in back.

BACK FRONT

Fig. 5-A· dart across the shoulders will make the pattern fit square shoulders.

slash. Spread to fit comfortably and pin on other tissue paper to hold shape. The back of the pattern will probably need to be reduced. Start folding at corner of shoulder and take out any extra fullness.

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PATTERNS AND NECKLINES

Alteration for Sleeves.-A well fitting sleeve is probably the most important fea­ture of a well fitting dress. Sleeves that have been cut wrong are hard to make right, but if the pattern is altered first, success should be assured. Each type of sleeve pre-sents a different problem, but principles can be applied to all alterations. The sleeve that is too long may be shortened with plaits in the pattern, or lengthened by slashing the pattern across and adding length. For the arm exceptionally large above the elbow, width may be added by slashing the. pattern through the center, and folding plaits from this center line about five inches down from the cap, and ending at nothing at the outer edge. The cap will then be too short and length must be added to restore original

BACK rRONT

shape. The armseye of the dress will then Fig. 6-Sloping shoulders re­

need to be increased. Trim away at under- quire additional length at neck-

arm. Care should be taken to see that the line.

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fullness for the elbow which is found in so many sleeve patterns will come at the right place.

Alteration for Circular Skirt.-To shorten a circular skirt, cut off un­

necessary length. Then to retain original width at the lower edge, pin this portion on pattern and slash skirt and spread to meet this piece.

Cutting the Dress After a pattern has been altered so that it appears correct there is one

thing more to do before cutting. There is usually a slight hollow in the

BACK I fROl\.'T

Jdg. 7-Alterations for. large hips.

BACK: rRONT

Fig. 8-This alteration takes care of the large bust.

back of the neck alid most well fitting dresses have a series of srriall tucks here. ·These tucks really serve two purposes. They fill in this hollow place and give added fullness across the shoulders where it always is needed.

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BACK

S. D. EXTENSION CIRCULAR 302

rTXONT

Yet it holds the fullness in center back, so that the armseye line can still be in place. Some patterns have made allowance for these. It is how­ever better to put them in before the dress is cut. Measure· to find where the tucks should be and then cut after the tucks are in.

Another check to make, is to be certain that the back shoulder line from neck edge to armseye edge is longer than the corresponding edge on the front. The back should be slightly eased on the front in order to make a nice fitting shoulder. This is especially essential for anyone with slightly rounded shoulders.

Laying and pinning the pattern on the material is the next essential to

Fig. 9-Sleeve and dress alteration for the well fitting dress. Too much stress large upper arm.

cannot be laid on the importance of grain in material. Grain refers to the lengthwise and crosswise of the material. There is a great temptation many times to throw a piece off grain ever so slightly in order to prevent piecing. Only trouble is in store when the fitting is done. A sleeve that is off grain never will hang nicely. Makers of commercial patterns fully realize the importance of getting the material correctly cut. Each company has its own system but each one uses some form of marking the straight of the material. Do not disregard it.

Another rule to I011ow is never cut notches into the material. Notches may be marked with chalk, or tailor's tacks, or the notches may be cut out from the seam, as points. After they are matched these little points may then be cut off. Also the pattern in the materials such as plaids, or large floral patterns, must be matched to make a good looking garment. This matching must be planned before the cutting is done.

Allow plenty on seam lines where fitting will probably be required, and especially if seams are to be pinked as a finish.

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Mark all notations which will be necessary later in finishing. Run a basting thread to mark center front and back. It is wise to mark plac­ings for pockets, or other trimmings. This preliminary work will save much time later on.

Cutting the Collar

Collars should be cut to suit the individual. A dress may be made very attractive, or un­attractive, just by the neckline. Cut a collar which is becoming and do not depend on the pattern in the package.

Collars really group themselves into one of three types-roll, semi-roll, or flat. The straighter the collar piece the more the collar will roll. When cutting a collar the center back of a collar should either be on the

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Fig. 10-Sleeves may be shortened or lengthened.

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PATTERNS AND NECKLINES 7

straight of the material or on the true bias.

D Be certain the shoulders fit perfectly, then shape the neckline of dress as desired. Fold

\@ dress on center back line and lay it on straight edge of paper for pattern. In order that the collar will fit more smoothly, the garment should extend about one-fourth inch beyond the edge of the paper. The collar is then Fig. IL-Altering a circular

slightly stretched as it is put on. Cut around skirt in this manner retains all

neckline and shape outer edge as desired. fullness at lower edge.

Collars that are made perfectly straight do not fit as weil as one that has a slight roll. The collar cut on a true bias at center back also fits smoothly. If double bias collar is used, lower one should be seamed to prevent stretching.

� The amount of roll may be

varied. When a collar is cut to

fit the neckline of the dress it

will lie fiat. This collar pattern

may then be cut apart at center back and lapped over at outer

edge keeping the neckline edge

the same length, but changing the shape of the collar. The'

more nearly this pattern ap­proaches the straight line, the more it will roll. When a col-�

Fig. 12.-Cutting a collar to suit the pttrpose. lar is cut this way the outer edge

a. Flat collar. at the center back must be b. Slightly rolled. c. Rolled collar. trued up in shape.

References-Clothing for Women, L. I. Baldt. Books from commercial pattern concerns.

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Extension Service I, South Dakota State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts Bro.okings, S. D.

Published and distributed under Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the Agricultural Extension Service of the South Dakota State College of Agricult

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ure. (I/

and Mechanic Arts, Brookings, A. E. Anderson, dirP.ctor, U. S. Department of Agri­culture cooperating.

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