PATOLA

Silk Sarees from Gujrat :

Patola is famous for silk saree from Gujrat-Kathiawar, situated on the west coast of India.

they are rich and ornamented woven sarees (in double I kat) worn on ritualistic occassions.

Patola Sarees, are produced by the wonderful art of 'Bandhani' (Tie & Dye). The tie & dye

being done on the warp & weft of the threads according to preconceived designs. The

identical colours come together where the warp and the weft threads jain. Patola is

therefore very labovious & extremely complicated.

historical Background :- The technique of Patola dyeing & weaving is said to be originated in

5th century A.D. during the golden age of Gupta period and gradually formed into a highly

sophisticated industry by the 11th century.

It is argued as to when and from where it originated. Some say it was introduced by the

Arab weaves who settled in India. Some say it was formed in Thailand & Cambodia, from

where it spread to Indonesia & India. the name Ikat was given by the Indonesians which act

of Bandhana. It is also known in Indo-China as 'Sampathd'. In India it is known as Patola. This

art of weaving is known as Patola in Gujrat, Titia Rumal and Poch ampali in Andhra Pradesh

& Ikat in Orissa. According to Dr. Motichandra the cloth 'Patilika' mentioned the 'Bralimijal

Sutra' (4th century B.C.) is actually 'Potuln' (Patola). Some of the dresses in Ajanta frescoes

also look woven in Ikat technique with fish, stripes and check motifs. The Tie & Dye done on

wrap & weft both is known a double Ikat.

Orissa weavers also adopted the Patola technique for weaving, their special fabrics like

curtains, leed spreads, Odhnis, scarfs and sarees. they are woven in double ikat & singly Ikat

bath in cotton & silk.

Pochompali & Chirala in Andhra Pradesh also makes 'Tilia Rumals'. Sarees in large variety of

geometrical designs known as Pochampali Sarees which are also in Patola style/technique.

Designs 7 Colours :-

Patola designs are generally based on geometrical patterns. Only a few designs are used in

traditional pattern in Patola sarees.

1. Nau Jhanjor Bhat(dancing girl)

2. Pari Bhat (Leaf designs)

3. Rattan chowk Bhat (Jewelled Square design)

4. Phulvadi (Floral design)

5. Chabri Bhat (Basket design)

The main characteristic of Patola is that the outline of the design in zigzag & on both the

sides of the material the design is the same. The design also consists of motifs leas. On

elephant, parrots, leaves, flowers, human figures, shapes worked out in red, white, yellow

on dark blue or green & red surface. They look very bright & ornamental coloured sarees.

Cuttack districts also produced purely silk fabrics in Ikat which was much older & traditional.

Only in the 20th century, cotton and tusser Ikat has become famous.

Bandhani (Tie & Dye) of Rajasthan

Bandhanis differ from Patola as tie and dye process is done after the fabric is woven Tie and

Dye Bandhanis are popular amongst women of Gujrat, Kathiawar, Rajasthan and Sindh. It is

called pattern dying (Resist method of printing which is one of the most primitive methods

of printing. Part of the fabric is tied and dyed with the dipping method. Rubbia, Silk, Linen,

twine and cotton threads are used for tyeing the material. Thickness of the thread depends

on the thickness of the fabric. In Rajasthan usually women are engaged in doing this work.

Utility Items :-

The Utility items made out of this are dupattas, kurtas, turbans, quilts and ghagras etc.

Colours :

The colours used in Bandhani are bery bright and multi coloured, which are auspicious are

known as 'Symbol of youth and romance'.

The designs are based on shapes of animals, birds, flowers and dancing dolls, sometimes

dats are grouped to farm a design (Ek Bandhi, Sapt Bandhi or Char Bandhi). Bandhani

dupattas and bengas are worm on festivals or some auspicious accasions. Tie & Dye on both

cotton & silk.

Styles :-

There are four methods of tie & dye:-

1. Bandhej :- Dyed withtrying different knots.

2. Seno Bandhaw :- Stitching method.

3. Do Rukha :- Dipping method.

4. Multi Coloured :- Dabbing method.

The traditional colours are usually red,green, yellow, blue and black with wide range of

combinations possible with their hues.

Kutch, Saurashtra & Jamnagar :-

Bandhani of Kutch and Saurashtra are distinctive in design and ornamentation. In Gujrat

'Gharchola' is full of different motifs and gold checks.

Jamnagar has a satiny kind of glazed silk on which bandhani is done for blouses and veses.

Names of Designs :-

1. Veer Bhat.

2. Lahariya.

3. Mointerin design

4. Kite design

5. Doll design

6. Dona pattern

Down South in Madurai a Saurashtra community of bandini dyers settled long age and

started doing bandhani work. The designs are depicted only through dats. The colours used

in the background are usually dark red, black, dark blue or purple, chrome, deep yellow.

Tools :-

The tying of the cloth into dats with a painted nail or special thrimble. It needs training &

great skill to do this work (the nails are allowed to grow specially for the purpose). The

folded fabrics damped, and pressed on are picked up and tied.