Passport: A Tale of Two (Chinese) Cities

8/16/2019 Passport: A Tale of Two (Chinese) Cities

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PASSPORTPASSPORTTRAVEL • CULTURE • STYLE • ADVENTURE • ROMANCE

JUNE 2016

USA $4.95 CANADA $5.95

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SWISS TAST

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ANDREW HAIG

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POLAND & GERMAN

A TALE OF TWO CITI

HANGZHOU & SHANGHA

DREAMSCAP

AMSTERDAM

VIP LOUNG

ANDREW HAIG

EURAIL THROUG

POLAND & GERMAN

A TALE OF TWO CITIE

HANGZHOU & SHANGHA

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OAKLAND

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WORLD EATS

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PRIDE 2016


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50 PASSPORT I JUNE 2016

P h o t o : a s t u d i o

Traditional Food Market in Shanghai, China.


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A TALE OF TWO CITIES

HANGZHOU &

SHANGHAI by Matthew Wexler

JUNE 2016 I PASSPORT 51


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The sun is setting…I think. I’ve arrived in Shanghai after a

15-hour flight, and I’m not sure what day it is, let alone

what time of day: the permanent haze that hovers over

much of China’s 3.7 million square miles masks any clues.

Shanghai Pudong International Airport offers a harsh jux-

taposition of the familiar and the unknown, a theme that will reappear

throughout my journey to two of China’s major east coast cities.

I hop on a shuttle bus that takes me southwest from Shanghai’s

city center to Hangzhou. The cities blur together along the two-hour journey (or 45 minutes by bullet train), where endless clusters of

high-rise complexes blend into one another. Imagine the Vegas Strip

held up to a mirror, an endless stream of towering residential build-

ings, outlined in neon and saturated floodlights. But as I peer out the

window amid the slowly chugging traffic, closer inspection reveals a

kind of post-apocalyptic urban planning to accommodate the coun-

try’s 1.3 billion inhabitants. Construction cranes pierce the skyline

and it’s hard to tell whether certain projects are underway or have

been abandoned midstream. China, I am soon to f ind out, is a coun-

try and a people of contradiction.

HANGZHOU

RIVER DEEP, MOUNTAIN HIGHFor most Westerners (including myself prior to this trip), Hangzhou

may not be on your China bucket list, but consider adding a few days

to your itinerary to explore a city that, at least by the standards of ear-

lier centuries, was one of the most powerful ports in the world. The Sui

Empire finished the Grand Canal in 609 CE, a 1,100-mile engineering

feat that finally connected Hangzhou to Beijing in the north and posi-

a tale of two cities: hangzhou & shanghai

tioned it as a vital trading post.

Hangzhou’s port eventually filled with silt in the 15th century, but

skip ahead 600 years or so, and you’ll find a thriving metropolis for the

new millennium. It’s now a major technology hub with Alibaba Group

at its epicenter, a multi-faceted e-commerce company that holds the

record for the largest IPO of all time on the New York Stock Exchange,

totaling $25 billion. Put that mind-boggling figure momentarily aside,

along with worries that China could conceivably crash the global econ-

omy. Hangzhou’s wonders lie in its natural beauty and deep traditionsof culture and cuisine. Transcend political agendas and appreciate the

region for its hidden gems that remain some of China’s greatest gifts.

After a quick refresh at the Zhejiang Grand Hotel, a local five-star

hotel in the business district, I make my way to the city’s star attraction:

West Lake. The artificially made lake is only 2.5 square miles, but it

provides an idyllic respite from the bustle of city life that nestles its

shores. Declared a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 2011, the

lake can be viewed by walking or biking paths that surround its perime-

ter, or better yet, by hand-paddled boats that offer ideal vantage points

to appreciate the temples, pruned landscapes, and pagodas. Be sure to

include Impression West Lake as part of your experience. The outdoor

live performance takes place on the lake—literally. A massive stage sits

one inch under the surface of the water, creating an illusion that the100-plus performers are floating on water. Directed by Zhang Yimou

(known for his spectacular staging of the opening and closing cere-

monies of the 2008 Olympics in Beijing), the plot follows a legendary

Hangzhou love story. Most of it will be lost on foreigners, but there’s

plenty of eye candy to appreciate along with sweeping melodies by

Grammy Award–winner Kitaro.

To complete my West Lake experience and further immerse myself

Hangzhou Grand Canal P h o t o : H a n g z h o u T o u r i s m C

o m m i s s i o n / C Y T S I n

t e r n a t i o n a l T r a v e l C o .


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veniently happened to be passing by), and upon tasting the dish

declared it so delicious that it was added to the Imperial Court menu.

Modern variations can be found throughout Hangzhou and even dis-

covered at local food markets, but leave it to the professionals to

unearth this savory and complex poultry dish. Usually stuffed with

pork belly and shitake mushrooms then topped with fresh ginseng

root, the chicken is then typically doused in a rich marinade of soy,

rice wine, and hoisin sauce, wrapped in lotus leaves and sealed in clay

(make sure you procure non-toxic pottery clay if you attempt this at

home) before a low and slow baking process yields a succulent,

umami-driven f inal product.

Avisit to Hangzhou should also include an immersive tea experi-

ence and visit to Mei Jia Wu Tea Village, known throughout the

world for Longjing (sometimes called Dragon Well) tea. The

rolling hills look like wine vineyards, but upon closer inspection you’ll

discover rows of cultivated tea bushes and the occasional persimmon tree.

This particular green tea is some of the most coveted in the world and can

sell for upward of $150 per pound. The harvesting, drying, roasting, and

ultimate steeping of the tea leaves is filled with tradition and ritual, which

I’m fortunate to experience at Yuan Family Farm with the assistance of

CYTS Tours, one of the largest inbound travel companies in China. Fam-

Declared a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 2011, the lake can

be viewed from walking or biking paths that offer ideal vantage points

to appreciate the temples, pruned landscapes, and pagodas.

a tale of two cities: hangzhou & shanghaia

in the province’s culture, I dine at Hupanju Teahouse, an exquisite

lakeside venue that has been catering to locals and tourists alike for

more than 25 years. Request a table with a view or, weather permitting,

dine on the terrace. I’ll later discover that many of Hangzhou’s reputable

restaurants are ensconced in glaringly lit hotel banquet rooms with lit-

tle ambience, but Hupanju elevates the experience with ornately deco-

rated rooms and fine linens.

There are two signature dishes that exemplify Hangzhou’s take on

Zhejiang cuisine, one of China’s eight great cuisines. West Lake carp in

sweet and sour sauce (also known as Shusao Chuangzhen) is most

impressive when served whole, fried, and filleted in such a way thatallows the fish to get crispy and absorb the tangy sauce, typically made

with a combination of soy sauce, rice vinegar, and sugar. During my

time in Hangzhou I’ll eat nearly a half-dozen varieties, and though deli-

cious, most are not unlike various fried fish dishes I’ve had stateside.

The Beggar’s Chicken, on the other hand, is worth the trip half way

around the world.

Legend has it that during the Qing Dynasty, a beggar stole a chick-

en, but after being caught by a local farmer, ran to a riverbank and

buried it in the mud to hide it. After later retrieving the chicken, the

beggar roasted the bird over an open flame. When he cracked the

encrusted clay, the aroma attracted the Emperor’s attention (who con-

Jade Belt in West Lake, Hangzhou


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West Lake Hangzhou

P h o t o s : H a n g z h o u T o u r i s m C

o m m i s s i o n / C Y T S I n t e

r n a t i o n a l T r a v e l C o .

Xixi Wetlands Park, Hangzhou


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ily member Lina presents a formal tea ceremony on the family’s rooftop,

set against a bizarre backdrop of abandoned gym equipment, endless

clotheslines, and yapping neighborhood dogs. It’s a brilliant moment as

she ritualistically prepares the tea as if we were within one of the ornatechambers of The Forbidden City.

Other crafts and artistry abound throughout Hangzhou and even

offer the chance for travelers to try their hand doing something they’ve

never done before, like at the Xiling Seal Engraver’s Society. Formal-

ly established in 1904, the art of seal engraving and calligraphy dates

back to the Yuan dynasty. Under the watchful eye of a master, I chip

away at a small block of stone to create my own seal, its jagged edges

and inconsistent grooves a sign of my novice skill. It’s a charming keep-

sake though, and a much better than a kitchen magnet.

Before leaving Hangzhou, I’m eager to find a takeaway that repre-

sents the Zhejiang province’s rich tradition of craftsmanship. A little

digging around leads me to the Wensli Silk Culture Museum and

Flagship Store. The collection features more than 1,000 pieces, rang-ing from embroidery cloths from the Qing and Ming dynasty as well as

exceptional examples of Wensli’s products since the company’s incep-

tion in 1975. I leave with a scarf in tow and am ready for my next fash-

ion-forward destination.

SHANGHAI: ART DECO DECADENCEI’m on the bullet train back to Shanghai, whizzing past the unfolding

landscape at speeds up to 186 miles per hour. It parallels China’s econ-

omy, which has seen a real annual gross domestic product growth aver-

aging nearly ten percent (through 2014) since its change in foreign

trade policies in the late 70s. For perspective, the US’s average rate has

been below two percent over the last decade, but as much as some

things change, others stay the same.

China’s LGBT culture, at least by the government’s standards, is a

non-issue. Homosexuality was decriminalized in 1997, but there areno anti-discrimination laws in place nor is gay marriage legal. At a

quick glance, things look bleak, but there has been some united move-

ment to advocate change. According to a recent post by the Human

Rights Campaign, “the only way to achieve marriage equality in China

would be to pass legislation in the National People’s Congress, which

is not on its agenda at the moment.”

I’m hoping to connect with some locals to find out what gay life

is like, and have consulted with Benjamin Law, author of Gaysia:

Adventures in the Queer East (Cleiss Press), who spent nearly a year

skipping around seven Asian countries, including mainland China.

Through our correspondence, Benjamin shared, “From what I

understand, awareness is growing. It can’t not, mainly because of

how news is disseminated across the world, especially when itcomes to LGBTI rights. It’s hard to ignore that same-sex marriage

is now legal in the United States, for instance. But in the Chinese

context, attitudes toward things really start in the home, and the cul-

tural shift towards accepting homosexuality in the family unit is

going to take a long time.”

At the suggestion of a friend, I download Jack’d, an Asian-friendly

app along the lines of Grindr and Scruff. As the train nears the city

center (if there is such a thing in a metropolis of 23 million people) my

phone buzzes and pings with potential connections, but there is so

much to see and do that I temporarily abandon technology to take in a

city that makes my hometown of Manhattan look like a quaint village.

Shanghai Skyline


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Idrop off my bags at the exquisite Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong,

which occupies the top 18 floors of the Shanghai ifc South Tower

and celebrates a modern interpretation of 1930’s Shanghai Art

Deco. My room overlooks the Huangpu River with views of the Bund,

but fans of modern architecture might appreciate the building’s other

vantage point, which offers an up-close snapshot of the Shanghai

Tower. The stylishly fluid skyscraper, nearing completion, will be

China’s tallest building at a staggering 2,073 feet.

The hotel has arranged an architecture tour for me with architect,author, and historian Spencer Dodington, an American expat who has

been living in Shanghai for more than 20 years. His impeccable lan-

guage skills help navigate the bustling streets while I’m staring

upwards, but what is underneath Shanghai is just as interesting.

According to Dodington, Shanghai is a low-lying city built on under-

ground plates and rafts, and like New Orleans, subject to a potentially

precarious future. A recent report by Climate Central indicated rising

sea levels that could see 76 percent of Shanghai region’s current popu-

lation underwater by 2100 due to global warming. Putting a waterworld

future aside, Dodington offers a colorful and informed walk through

the various concessions, pointing out many art deco examples, includ-

ing vertical, horizontal, and Chinese. Favorites include a YWCA build-

ing designed by Chinese-American Architect Poy Gum Lee as well asthe entertainment district, Xin Tian Di, which fuses old and new while

still preserving elements of Shikumen-style construction that was pop-

ular during the late 19th century through the 1920s.

There is so much to see in Shanghai that I’d feel remiss if I didn’t

further engage expert assistance, so I’ve plotted out several more

excursions with the help of Audley Travel. Founded in 1991 by Craig

Burnkinshaw, the company expanded to Asia in 1996 and has been a

leader in customized itineraries, earning accolades from Condé Nast

Traveler , the Wanderlust Travel Awards, and more. And though I’m

traveling solo (and still batting zero on Jack’d), I poked the folks at

Audley regarding same-sex couples traveling throughout China.

“Naturally, all same-sex couples carefully consider the welcome they

can expect from the destinations they pick for their travels. China is cer-

tainly no exception, and Audley Country Specialists, with our highly

skilled guides, destination experts, and handpicked hotels and properties,

ensure that guests will receive a warm reception and full experience,” said

Shane Murphy, Audley Travel China Specialist. “We’ve never had an issue

of a lack of acceptance from clients or in our own extensive travels. As a

gay man, I also have an appreciation for the finer things in life and a tai-

lor-made trip allows the ability to truly customize your trip and taste level.

Ultimately, Audley provides the same level of expertise for everyone

regardless of sexual orientation and it’s our priority to ensure each travel-er’s experience goes beyond expectation.”

Shane’s words couldn’t ring more true as I meet up with my city

guide, Apple. She’s as sweet as a McIntosh as we wander the city

streets, enjoy a traditional Shanghai lunch (I know I’m in the

right spot when there’s not a word of English on the menu), and stroll

through People’s Park where locals practice tai chi and on the week-

ends, participate in the marriage market where parents try to match

their children based on everything from income and job status to phys-

ical characteristics. To a Westerner like myself, it appears antiquated,

but Benjamin reminded me how integrated and complex these issues

are in the fabric of Chinese culture, for both the gay as well as the

straight community.“If you’re closeted to your family, the logistics of maintaining lies

(fake marriages, insisting work is keeping you busy, all that stuff) takes

its toll. And for the people I know who are openly gay with their fami-

ly, for most of them, it’s the central source of pain in their relationships

with their parents,” shared Benjamin. “Those sorts of pressures are only

compounded by the daily realities of living in China: your parents rely-

ing on you as their social security, and there is the relative lack of pri-

vacy to pursue your own love and sex life. But I think we have to be

careful about the idea of calling China’s views on procreation and mar-

riage ‘antiquated.’ That fundamental belief of the family unit as the pil-

lar of society is shared by most traditions and cultures. It’s heightened

in China because of both cultural and economic reasons, too.”

Apple passes me along to my driver for the afternoon, Arthur fromAuthentic Experiences, but this is no standard car tour. Instead, I don

a helmet and goggles (looking much like Snoopy’s World War I Flying

Ace alter ego) and climb into the sidecar of a vintage Chang Jiang 750

motorbike. Originally produced for the Chinese army in the early 50s,

the bike whisks us along to various vantage points likely unseen by

most tourists. Arthur has a keen eye for Shanghai’s underbelly as we

weave through the city streets and parks before exploring some of Old

Town on foot. Overflowing with shanties, free-running dogs, and locals

hawking cheaply made clothing from their doorsteps, it’s a stark snap-

shot of China’s income inequality.

We then drive to 1933, an old slaughterhouse in the American con-

cession district. The sturdy concrete building features a maze of

ramps, staircases, and bridges that surround a center atrium, all orig-inally designed to herd and slaughter cattle. The building was reno-

vated in 2008 and now hosts a number of creative businesses, retail-

ers, and special event spaces. The sun is beginning to set but before

Arthur drops me off, we make one more stop at Waibaidu Bridge,

where dozens of couples are posing against the Pudong skyline for

their wedding photos. China’s wedding industry brings in a stagger-

ing $80 billion in annual revenue, and it’s easy to see why with the

crews on hand for these customized photo shoots. It’s a sea of women

in traditional red gowns, while battalions of brides-to-be stand on the

sidelines waiting for their turn in the spotlight and the chance to cap-

ture an elusive Shanghai sunset. P h o t o : h x d b z x y

Morning Tai Chi in Shanghai


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thoughts on China as written in Gaysia: “This is what it was like to

be a ghost in this country: a person who was entirely invisible, even

to yourself.” As a Western tourist, I felt celebrated in China: my Jack-

’d profile eventually yielded a few friendly meetings with locals whowere fascinated by my life. Even strangers stopped me along the

Bund, wanting to snap a photo with the first Caucasian they’d ever

seen, but my interactions barely scratched the surface of what life

might be like in China.

According to Benjamin: “You can’t draw clean parallels between

the fight for LGBTI rights in China, and the fight for LGBTI rights

in the West. Homophobia, virulent hatred for gays, doesn’t exist in

China like it does in Christian or Muslim-majority countries. Howev-

er, not even acknowledging homosexuality exists creates a whole

other suite of problems. It’s not all doom and gloom. As young Chi-

nese increasingly travel and migrate, they find allies, education them-

selves about LGBTI issues, and find a vocabulary they can adapt for

use back home. But progress can be slow, especially when it’s diffi-cult to establish or define your identity in the first place.”

Taking the subway home from the airport and walking my neigh-

borhood’s familiar streets (fermented chile paste, chopsticks, and

other souvenirs in tow), I am washed over by what I may have previ-

ously taken for granted. I see people of all races. Restaurants and

retailers of every kind, owned and operated by those seeking their

own version of the American Dream. A young couple passes me hold-

ing hands, tangled in each other’s arms without a care in the world.

They burst into a bustling bar. A rainbow flag billows in the wind

above. They are two men, happy and at home. And maybe this too is

in China’s future.


The following morning Apple picks me up from my new digs at

Les Suites Orient Bund Shanghai (be sure to request a room

with views of the river and Pudong skyline) and we head to

Caoyang Xin Cun, a state-supported housing district established in1951. I had requested from my Audley expert an “authentic” Shang-

hai food experience, so in lieu of booking me at a five-star restaurant,

we head to this modest residential neighborhood.

We walk through Tei Lu Market, a former railway station that’s

been converted into a cacophony of vendors selling everything from

fresh fish and vegetables to household supplies. From here we head to

the apartment of Mr. and Mrs. Wang (aka “Auntie”), who host our fam-

ily-style lunch. The couple’s modest apartment is in one of the endless

rows of utilitarian buildings. They’ve created a makeshift second bed-

room by hanging a curtain; and though there’s running water and elec-

tricity, the living quarters (with the exception of a shiny, full-size stain-

less steel refrigerator) could use a loving makeover. What the space

lacks in modern amenities is eclipsed by Auntie’s gracious hospitality.From her two-burner stove, she produces 12 dishes including meatballs

with Chinese yam, bamboo shoots with carrot and chile, crispy spring

rolls filled with gooey banana, and of course, Shanghai dumplings

floating in a savory broth speckled with green vegetables.

While we eat together, the couple proudly tells me about their

daughter attending college, and I wonder if she might be subject to a

match made at the marriage market, or what they would think if they

knew I was gay. But in this context we are simply people sharing a

meal, chuckling at our own cultural differences, some translated by

Apple and others as obvious as my fumbling chopsticks.

On the long plane ride home, I’m struck by Benjamin’s final


The Bund, Shanghai


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Passport: A Tale of Two (Chinese) Cities

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Transcript of Passport: A Tale of Two (Chinese) Cities