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What You Need...

From Rear Old Axle :

y Brake drums,y 2 Backing plates

From Front Axle :

y 2Brake discsy 2 Calipersy 2 Calipers

Mounts

y Set of brake padsy 8 Wheel Studsy 8 new high

tensile M8x90

bolts

y 8 Nuts and springwashers for the

above

y New brake lineBrake Fittings:

y 2 Male unionconnectors

y 2 Female unionconnectors

y Banjo bolts forabove

y 2 Flexy hosesy Some extra brake

fluid

Main Tools:

y Angle grinder with at least 2 cutting discsy Spannersy Big hammer

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Preparation Work...

Just to make it a bit easier to do, some helpful tips: -

y Soak all the brake line connections in WD-40, chances are they will be somewhatseized and they'll need a bit of time with the WD-40 to help them loose.

y Also, take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, cover it with a latex glove (orsomething similar - so long as it creates an air tight seal) and put an elastic band to

hold it on . This worked a treat for me and stopped the pressure enough so the

brake fluid only dripped out the lines slowly.

y Clean the calipers and mounts up first. Give e a lick of paint as well, just for a bitof extra protection.

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Build Info...

1. First you will need to sort out the drums. First hammer out the wheel studs. Thedrums then need to be cut with an angle grinder and cutting disc. This will be used as

your disc carrier :

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2. Now you will need to put you front wheel studs in. Front wheel studs need to be usedas they are longer than the rear ones :

3. Next you need to cut the mounts so they will slide over the rear axle. You only needto make it fit over the narrow part, then they will slide up over the ends where it gets

thicker. The bottoms need to be cut at an angle (shown below) so it can

accommodate 3 of the 4 bolts which currently hold the backing plate onto the axle

.

Cut the mounts smaller than needed at first. Its a lot better than cutting off too much!

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4. The mounts now need to be drilled to allow the new bolts to connect them to theaxle. I did it so the existing holes were pretty much in-line with the rear axle

retaining holes. This makes the caliper sit at an angle to the axle. If you make it sit at

90 the caliper will hit on the bump stop at full compression. Better to make the holes

later wait until the drum brake assembly is off the axle to make the holes.

5. Now the work on the axle starts. With the drums already off you need to take off theshoes leaving you with just the backing plate and brake cylinder :

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The backing plate needs to come off simply by un-doing the four bolts holding it to

the axle. The steel brake line now needs to be taken off - just cut it with a hacksaw as

it is no longer needed. The half shaft then needs to come out (a slide hammer may

need to be used for this). With the half shaft out you can now take the backing plate

off over the wheel bearing.and you are left with the shaft and bearing retainer

(Spanish models) - for Japanese models, I believe the backing plate is ALSO thebearing retainer.

6. The backing plate now needs to be cut, again using the angle grinder. This acts as aspacer between the axle housing and bearing retainer. Without it the retainer will not

sit flush against the axle housing.

There should be an outline (probably of dirt) which you can cut around, but as long

as the bolt holes are within the cutting line you will be ok. Clean this up and give it a

coat of paint.

7. The backing plate now needs to go back over the half shaft and bearing, and the halfshaft can be slid back into the axle housing. This is also a good time to check your

bearings. Re-packing them with grease would also be a good idea (not going to hurt

anyway).

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8. Now the disc brake assembly can be started! The caliper mount needs to go on first.Hook it over the thinner part of the axle, and slide it up to the end of the axle housing

lining up the bolt holes, and slide the bolts through (a hammer may come in handy

here).

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Bolt it up tight so the spring washers are flat and there is no movement in the mount

at all. In addition to this, you can strengthen the mount by welding it on as well

(make sure you can still get the bolts out if you need the half shaft out). Bolting it on

should be sufficient.The disc carriers can now be put on exactly the same way the

drums were put on.

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9. Now add the disc and slide the caliper over it and line up with the bolt holes. Theremay be some excess space in between the caliper and mount. I ended up using some

washers as spacers to get around this. Simple but effective.

10.Now onto the brake lines. I simply used a length of copper line from my local motorfactors for around a fiver. Bent it into shape and flared it myself (make sure you put

the union connectors on the line the right way round before flaring).

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I used the standard "T-Piece" for the connection at one end, and at the other end, the

line connects to the flexy hoses off the calipers.

11. Mounts now need to be made to hold the flexys in place where they connect to thehard line. I used a spare length of metal I had lying around, drilled two holes in it

about 7mm for the original axle mounting bolt (10mm head) to fit through, and10mm for the brake line to fit through. Then I cut down towards the 10mm hole so

the flexy could easily be removed by loosening the lock-nut and bent it round 90.

12. Bolt the mount down, fit the flexy down on top of it and tighten the lock-nut onto it,and make sure all the brake fittings are tight and it should end up looking something

like this:

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I would advise you test out your shock absorber when you have done this. In their

original place, my shock fouled on the brake line when at full droop and at

compression. This was due to my custom set up, and was reletivley easy to fix. If I

had left it, it would have cause serious problems and possibly caused the brakes to

fail.

Finally...

Once all this work is done, bleed the brakes, put your wheels back on, and see for

yourself the improvement this has over the rear drums!