Parts of a Knife Handout
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Transcript of Parts of a Knife Handout
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Handout Parts of a Knife
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PARTS OF A KNIFE1. POINT Functions as the piercing tool
of the blade2. TIP Top quarter of blade used for
work cutting and separating includes the tip
3. EDGE Working part of the bladefrom point to heel.
4. SPINE Top part of blade oppositethe edge.
5. HEEL Rear part of the edge.
6. BOLSTER Thick band of steel helps
balance knife and protecthands.
7. TANG The part of the bladeextending into the handle gives knife balance.
8. SCALES Parts of the handle thatcreates the grip.
9. BUTT End of the handle
A FEW BASIC RULESNEVER SOAK AKNIFE
This is bad for the bladeand for most handles,especially those made ofwood, which can warp.It is also extremelyDANGEROUS assomeone might put theirhands in the water andbe cut.
NEVER PUT A
KNIFE IN THEDISHWASHER
The intense heat may
ruin the blade as well asother parts of the knife.
NEVER BECARELESSABOUT WHERETHE KNIFE ISPUT DOWN
If it can bump intosomething else or fallthe blades may bedamaged.
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STORE YOURKNIVES WITHTHE GUARDSON
This maintains the edgesand makes it safer foryou when you reach intoyour kit.
NEVER USETHE CUTTINGEDGE TOSCRAPE FOODOFF THEBOARD
Doing so will result in thedulling of the blade.
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USE OF YOUR KNIVES:
To correctly hold a knife, centre your grip over the upper handle with thumband forefinger, gripping the bolster and with three fingers grasped aroundthe handle. This grip maximizes control and leverage and proves to be less
tiring during large chopping jobs.
After each use, wipe the blade by hand with a damp cloth. Take care to wipealong the spine from the bolster in the direction away from you. NEVER wipealong the cutting edge with the blade pointed toward your hand. Follow bywashing the knife in soap and water, rinsing in hot water and sanitizing yourblade. Dry immediately.
SHARPENING YOUR KNIVES:
Contrary to common belief, a sharp knife is actually safer than a dull one.The greater force required to counteract the dullness of a blade increasesthe chance of the knife slipping and cutting the user. A dull knife slashesand tears the food instead of cleanly cutting it.
There are many different techniques that can be employed to sharpen yourknives with a sharpening stone. You will have the opportunity to learn thesefrom your instructor.
USING A STEEL:
The steel is a tool used more often by achef than the sharpening stone. Thesteel should be used frequently to helpmaintain the edge and should always beused after sharpening the knife on asharpening stone.
The role of the sharpening steel is two-fold:
1. To true the edge the action of sharpening the blade on a stone leavesmany small teeth on the surface of the blade. While this may aid
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somewhat in cutting, it is advantageous to rub the very edge of theblade to perfect smoothness. Also, the blade may bend somewhatduring normal usage. The steel, when properly used, will perfect theedge.
2. To remove metal particles after sharpening on a stone your steel ismagnetized and this allows the metal particles that result fromsharpening to cling to the steel during use which prevents them fromgetting into food.
To clean a sharpening steel, wipe with a cloth that has been dampened withvinegar.
USE AND MAINTENANCE OF KNIVES:
Knives are among the most important tools in food production. A keen edgeand the proper shape have so much value for efficient work that many food
workers are encouraged to own their own knives and be responsible forkeeping them in good condition. The knives used most frequently are theFrench knife, the Boning knife, the Salad or Utility knife and the Paring knife.
ITEM DESCRIPTION USE
Straight-edged bladewith firm, taperingpoint
Handle designed sothat hand does notinterfere when knifeis used for chopping
Chopping
French Knife
Longer than a paringknife
Blade is 4-6 inches
Cutting edge isstraight or curved
Cutting up fruit, largevegetables; slicingmeat; any otheroperation requiring aflexible bladeUtility Knife
Blade is from 2 to3 inches long
Comes in sharp,
spear and clip points
To clean, skin or corefruits and vegetables
Paring Knife
Thin, straight-edgedblade with sharppoint
Curved cutting edge
Removes bones frommeat or fish
Boning Knife
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There are other knives in numerous sizes and shapes to fit special purposessuch as a grapefruit knife, bread knife, steak knives and clam or oyster knife.
THE CORRECT WAY TO SHARPEN A KNIFE:
After repeated use, knives become dull and lose their edge. Dulling startswhen tiny, invisible particles of the edge break off to leave minute dents.Each dent causes a slight jolt as the knife cuts through food. These joltscause the food to look ragged and hasten the widening of the dents on theknifes edge.
To keep knives sharp and their edges smooth, a stone and steel must beused (with a stone you can regrind the blades edge).
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If you look straight at the edge of the knife you can see where the two sidesof the knife meet. This is the BEVEL.
A chefs knife has a 20 degree bevel angle
A boning knife has a 30 degree bevel angle
Each time you grind the knife a visible amount of metal is removed. Thebigger the dents, the more metal you have to remove; however, too muchgrinding exposes the soft metal interior and ruins the knife.
An OILSTONE can have three grit sides: COARSE, MEDIUM and FINE.
Oilstones must have lubricating oil on them so the knives can be run acrosswith little resistance (use only Mineral or Machine Oil all other oils causethe stone to pit).
Put a damp cloth under the stone to prevent it from sliding. Hold the knifeparallel to the stone and perpendicular to your body.
Place the heel of the knife at one end of the stone and cutting into the stonewith the knifes edge, bring it across to the other end of the stone. (The toeof the knife should now be touching the stone) It is important to hold theknife at the bevel angle when regrinding to maintain the same shape. Thefirst 1/8th inch of the entire knifes edge should have a little oil on it.
Repeat from the other side of the stone (twice for each side). Remove oiland grit build-up on the knife with a paper towel. Repeat on medium and
fine grit sides.
Sharpening on the coarse and medium sides will produce a burr, which isremoved by sharpening on the fine side. If you keep a regular schedule ofsharpening your knives, you will only have to use the medium and fine sides.
Besides, OILSTONES, there are DRYSTONES and WETSTONES.
DRYSTONES are thought to be the most durable and are usually shapedinto high-speed wheels. The friction caused by the wheel grinding the knifemay result in overheating which will soften it.
WETSTONES are cut from natural stones and must be kept wet when in use.
USING A STEEL:
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The stone should be used every day depending on the need; however, asteel should be used frequently every day. Once, sharpened, the steel willkeep the knife sharper longer.
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There are many ways to use a steel. The main points are:
1. Keep the knife the same angle you used to sharpen it so that youmaintain the edge you put on the knife.
2. To keep your knives sharp use the steel two to three times or more eachday.3. The steel has a safety guard keep your hands above that! It also has a
magnetic tip at the end. The tip will pick up any steel burrs from thesharpening.
4. Place sharpening steel point down on a table or cutting board keeping thesharpening steel in a vertical position.
5. Establish an angle between the cutting blade edge and the sharpeningsteel of approximately 20 degrees.
6. Pull knife down and across the sharpening steel in a slight arc. Repeat onthe other side of the sharpening steel. Repeat this process five to ten
times, always alternating the left and right sides of the cutting edge.
THE CORRECT WAY TO USE A KNIFE:
REMEMBER: Use of a dull knife usually results in
Poor appearance of the food product
Poor uniformity and portion control
Waste of energy
Loss of time
Poses a serious safety hazard
When using a dull knife greater force is required which reduces control.
THE FRENCH KNIFE: BASIC GRIP
1. Place the cutting edge of the knife on the board holding the knife by theback of the blade with your left hand.
2. Place your right hand on the handle of the knife.3. The inside of the hand at the base of the index finger should rest slightly
above the handle.
4. Close your hand around the handle you may release your left hand fromthe knife.5. The handle should be directly under your wrist in a straight line with your
forearm.
IMPORTANT!
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This grip is for the French knife only. In using slicing knives, roast beefknives, boning knives, etc. the grip is on the handle only though oyster andclam knives and paring knives require hand and blade contact. The Frenchknife is the only major tool that requires this specific type of control andsupport and provides a measure of safety by having a portion of your hand
on the blade. What provides a safety measure here might prove a dangerwith other knives.
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POSITION:
1. Stand straight but relaxed, with your weight evenly distributed on bothfeet.
2. Stand as close to the counter as possible but do not touch it with yourbody.3. Place your feet at a 20-degree angle with heels about 5 to6 inches apart.
Adjust your stance for comfort.
GUIDING HAND:
The left hand (for right-handed people) is the hand, which guides andcontrols the path of the knife. The right hand holds the knife and controlsthe swing or chop but it follows the direction of the guide hand.
1. Your left hand should be held in the roll position with fingers curled.Bend your thumb toward your hand for maximum protection.
2. To provide a riding surface for the blade of the knife, the knife blademust ride flat and flush against one or more of the middle fingers.
As long as the knife blade is held flat and flush against the fingers andis not raised higher than the knuckle of the second joint and you keepyour finger tips curled under there is little danger of cutting yourself.
REMEMBER! Any tool may become dangerous when you cease to treat itwith respect.
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The diagrams may be used for actual measurements.
JULIENNE MINCED
BRUNOISE SMALL DICE
MEDIUM DICE LARGE DICE
Handout Parts of a Knife