Part 2 – Richtersveld, Port Nolloth, Home

We were welcomed by the very helpful staff at Sendelingsdrift rest camp, and got one of the lovely

chalets overlooking the river. Border crossing formalities was once again a breeze and soon we were

relaxing on our little stoep, looking forward to a night in a proper bed for the first time in a week. The

trip from Ausenkehr took only about two and a half hours, including all the border formalities, and

the photo stops. We were thankful the next day for the extra 2 ½ hours, because we could spend this

on the road to Tatasberg.

Next morning, after being woken by the resident Fish Eagle, we had a leisurely breakfast, and started

on our way to Tatasberg. We were well prepared, (thanks to a certain forum…), and the trailer was

loaded with an extra spare wheel, tyre repair kit, drinking water, food, wood, a jerry can and beer…

This was after all potentially the most dangerous part of our trip. Before you get excited though, we

had literally no bad luck on the whole trip. The “road” from Sendelingsdrift to Tatasberg, was as bad

as expected and I loved every moment of it! With low range and centre diff-lock engaged, we slowly

made our way over Akkedis- and Penkop passes. The road is mostly just very rocky with steep

inclines and declines, but here and there a nice obstacle would present itself where line was

important to keep the lower than usual tow bar from catching on the rocks. Only the last 4km or so is

deep sand on the banks of the Orange. Although I was slightly worried a few times, momentum, low

range, low tyre pressure and the 4.0l V6 was enough to ensure a safe arrival at the reed huts of

Tatasberg. Photo opportunities are ample with the renowned mountains and open vistas of the

Richtersveld. I do not possess the literary flair of a travel writer to give credit to the Richtersveld, but

all I can say is that all that adjectives in any travel article still does not do justice to this part of the

world. You have to see it for yourself.

Start of Akkedis-Pass

Lunch on top of Penkop Pass

All the above at Tatasberg Wilderness Camp

Swimming in the Orange River

The four days we spent at Tatasberg was not enough. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and the kids

loved it. I am already planning our next visit there! If you love desolation, beautiful rugged open

spaces, quiet, and don’t mind seeing no one for days on end, this place is for you. The Reed huts at

Tatasberg was designed for two people, but the kids squeezed in comfortably on a stretcher (with full

knowledge of Park Management, I must add). The Hut is actually a permanent tent with a fixed roof

and strengthened by reeds built on a wooden platform. The kitchen is a separate tent, with a fridge

and gas stove. Then you’ve got your own wooden deck with a braai. From Tatasberg most parts of

the park are accessible but not for a quick outing, it takes time with the roads.

I have often wondered why one would put up with a huge, gas guzzling 4x4, and why do people

overland/4x4. The Richtersveld is my answer… I want to go places where it’s just too darn hard to get

to for the average Joe. One of the couples we met at Tatasberg thought we were mad to stay there

for so long (and with children!) and said they couldn’t wait to leave. Great! More peace and quiet for

the rest of us! You must however be adequately prepared. You are at least 3 hours away from

anything and an emergency here might very well turn out bad.

The Richtersveld was undoubtedly the highlight of our trip and we can’t wait to go back.

With heavy hearts, we packed up and left Tatasberg on the Thursday morning for Port Nolloth. Once

again the road over Helskloof did not disappoint and the 60 odd km to the “main” gravel road

between Sendelingsdrift and Alexanderbay took us about 3 ½ hours.

Looking towards the sea – Helskloof before leaving the park

The Main road to Alexander Bay is relatively good but with a lot of loose gravel and even looser

mining bakkie drivers. We did a quick stopover in Alexander Bay to re-inflate tires and buy cool drink

and see what the town looks like. From there the straight-as-an-arrow road to Port Nolloth and an

old favourite, Bedrock Lodge.

We spent two nights in Port Nolloth and nearly froze to death… Lucky for the PEP stores to buy warm

clothes for the kids. Anita’s was great as usual, and as we were the only guests on a Thursday night,

the kids could play in the courtyard and me and Swambo could actually hold a real conversation in

front of the fire. The red wine (me) and Grapetizer (pregnant Swambo) flowed freely to celebrate an

unforgettable and completely incident free trip to the second most beautiful part of our country

(after the Karoo, ofcourse )

Thanks for reading.