Parks and Trails Guide

2011 Park and Trails Guide, Sponsored by San Juan Island Firms and Businesses

San Juan Island is the walkable island with many trails along the west side. See our new trail map. (Page 4)

American and English camps offer numerous hiking trails. Browse our maps and trail guide to find one that suits you.(Pages 6 & 7)

Inside this Issue

National ParksFrom living history to nature to evenings of song and dance, it’s all here. Check our summer program guide. (Pages 5 & 8)

There are a few places where you can camp and see the whales from your fire pit. Find out the best spots. (Page 9)

Hiking

Camping

MuseumsVisit the island’s Heritage Sites and many museums with the help of our listings. (1)

2011 PARK AND TRAILS GUIDE

English Camp’s commissary, block-house and formal garden sit at the edge of the enbankment on Garrison Bay.

San Juan Island: trails to youVisitors flock to San Juan Island each and every year by the thousands. Maybe it’s the sunshine, 247 days a year, on average. Maybe it’s the scenic beauty or abundance of wildlife — the sight of a killer whale breaching the water’s surface is truly something to behold. Or maybe they’re drawn by the laid-back lifestyle of Friday Harbor and its small-town charm, and by the rural landscape that surrounds it.All good reasons. But the best way to breathe in the true character of the island — as most islanders would agree — is by visiting one of its many parks or taking a sojourn along one of its numerous hiking trails. That’s where the island’s natural beauty and the echoes of its past truly come alive. Whether it’s a park, trail, museum or campground that captures your interest, our 2011 Parks and Trails Guide will help get you on your way to discovering some of the best of the best that the island has to offer. Bon voyage.

San Juan Island’s hiking trails are renown for sunshine and an abundance of madrona trees.

Where History andRecreation Merge

San Juan Island: trails to youVisitors flock to San Juan Island each and every year by the thousands. Maybe it’s the sunshine, 247 days a year, on average. Maybe it’s the scenic beauty or abundance of wildlife — the sight of a killer whale breaching the water’s surface is truly something to behold. Or maybe they’re drawn by the laid-back lifestyle of Friday Harbor and its small-town charm, and by the rural landscape that surrounds it.All good reasons. But the best way to breathe in the true character of the island — as most islanders would agree — is by visiting one of its many parks or taking a sojourn along one of its numerous hiking trails. That’s where the island’s natural beauty and the echoes of its past truly come alive. Whether it’s a park, trail, museum or campground that captures your interest, our 2011 Parks and Trails


Guide will help get you on your way to discovering some of the best of the best that the island has to offer. Bon voyage.

San Juan Island is the walkable island with many trails along the west side. See our new trail

American and English camps offer numerous hiking trails. Browse our maps and trail guide

Inside this Issue

From living history to nature to evenings of song and dance, it’s all here. Check our summer program guide. (Pages 5 & 8)

There are a few places where

whales from your fire pit. Find out the best spots. (Page 9)

Visit the island’s Heritage Sites and many museums with the help of our listings. (Page 11)

San Juan Island is the walkable

the west side. See our new trail

Browse our maps and trail guide

Inside this Issue

From living history to nature to

it’s all here. Check our summer

whales from your fire pit. Find

Visit the island’s Heritage Sites

San Juan Island: trails to youVisitors flock to San Juan Island each and every year by the thousands. Maybe it’s the sunshine, 247 days a year, on average. Maybe it’s the scenic beauty or abundance of wildlife — the sight of a killer whale breaching the water’s surface is truly something to behold. Or maybe they’re drawn by the laid-back lifestyle of Friday Harbor and its small-town charm, and by the rural landscape that surrounds it.All good reasons. But the best way to breathe in the true character of the island — as most islanders would agree — is by visiting one of its many parks or taking a sojourn along one of its numerous hiking trails. That’s where the island’s natural beauty and the echoes of its past truly come alive. Whether it’s a park, trail, museum or campground that captures your interest, our 2011 Parks and Trails Guide will help get you on your way to discovering some of the best of the best that the island has to offer. Bon voyage.

2. 2011 PARK AND TRAILS GUIDE

6th Annual salute to our Parks and Trails.National, State, County, Historical,

Natural, and Marine


Welcome to our guide to the Park and Trails of San Juan

By Scott RasmussenSan Juan Island is where it all

began. The Hudson Bay Company, the

Pig War, the joint occupation by U.S. and British military forces, which led to a peaceful settlement of an international boundary dispute. Then came Roche Harbor Lime Company and its emergence in the late 1800s as an economic heavyweight.

Today, San Juan Island remains the home of San Juan County’s only incorporated town, Friday Harbor. As a result, it’s the seat of local govern-ment and serves as the county’s com-mercial hub and its primary gateway for border crossings to and from Canada.

Friday Harbor celebrated its 100th birthday in 2009. In the summer, with its streets teeming with visi-tors, it’s easy to forget that the town, which consists of about one square mile, is home to no more than 2,500 year-round residents.

But they’re a busy bunch. And there’s plenty to do in Friday Harbor regardless of the season. The town is home to the bustling Port of Friday Harbor, numerous art galleries, an as-sortment of parks, a movie theater, an art museum, a historical museum, a military museum and a whale mu-seum. There are also enough quality restaurants and � rst class cafés to satisfy the palate and the pocketbook of just about anyone.

While its history and vitality are palpable, nothing surpasses the island’s scenic beauty. You’ll � nd it in full display on the coveted west side of the island, where 30-plus miles of shoreline brush up against the wa-ters of Haro Strait, a favorite hunting ground of the region’s resident, and endangered, killer whales.

It’s no more than 15 miles from

Friday Harbor, located on the east side of the island, to the west side. There’s a lot to see along the way, as the landscape begins to reveal the island’s legacy and its resurgence as a agricul-tural producer.

Situated closer to Canada than mainland U.S.A., the west side of San Juan offers dazzling sunsets, sweep-ing vistas and stunning views of the Olympic Mountains and of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It’s also one of the sweetest spots on Earth from which to launch a kayak.

As if that weren’t enough, there’s a county-run campground, complete with mooring buoys and a boat ramp, a state park that features a historic lighthouse and locations that are beyond compare for a picnic and land-based whale watching. There’s also a pair of National Park Service proper-ties, as well as four different nature preserves dedicated to low-impact recreation, like hiking.

All told, more than 3,000 acres on San Juan’s west side are open to

the public and nearly all those parks and preserves boast signi� cant tracts of waterfront. (If you ask a local for directions to Eagle Cove and its sandy beach, please don’t mention that you heard about it here).

The west side of the island is anchored at the south end by the National Historical Park’s American Camp. It’s anchored on the north end by Roche Harbor Resort. From its roots as a blue-collar company town, found-ed on the production of lime, Roche Harbor has evolved into a full-� edged resort and seaside village. It boasts a thriving marina, an airstrip, a 19-acre sculpture park, numerous hiking trails and a disc-golf course, as well as an outdoor amphitheater, where Island Stage Left, a local production compa-ny, performs Shakespearean and other classic theater.

For more information and maps of San Juan Island, visit the Chamber of Commerce: 135 Spring St., downtown Friday Harbor, 360-378-5240, www.sanjuanisland.org.

Eagle Cove: sandy beach, playful waves and relatively warm water. It’s a great place to body surf, Boogie board, build a sandcastle, � y a kite, or improve your tan. Take Cattle Point Road out of town, turn right on Eagle Cove Drive.

Skateboarders will � nd plenty of bends, curves and steep terrain at Friday Harbor Skatepark, at the San Juan County Fairgrounds on Argyle Avenue. It’s great for begin-ners too. And there’s a family park with playground equipment and a sheltered picnic area. The park is run by Island Rec, which offers year-round programs. Call 360-378-4953; visit www.islandrec.org.

Arts and crafts, dance, drama, games, music and swimming are among the activities offered at Bill & Rita Ament’s Summer Creative Arts Day Camp, at Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island. Camp begins July 6. Call 360-378-9628.

Camp Eagle Rock in Friday Har-bor begins June 22, daily, for children ages 6-12. Activities include arts and crafts, bus trips, games, music and swimming. A daily snack is provided. Call 360-378-4953; visit www.islandrec.

For Kids: It’s like one big, natural amusement park

American Camp

The American Camp visitor center is about six miles southeast of Friday Harbor along Cattle Point Road.

Simply drive west on Spring Street to Mullis Street and turn left. The road will wind a bit and change its name twice until it becomes Cattle Point Road. Turn right on the visitor center entrance road after you see the large park entrance sign. If you turn before the sign, you’ll be in the Eagle Cove housing development. Cattle Point Road passes three miles through the park right-of-way, and the speed limit is 45 mph. Please be mindful, especially in the wooded stretch, that wild animals cross this road and bicyclists may be just around one of the blind corners. Startled cyclists tend to turn and look over their left shoulders, which causes them to swerve toward the center line. Park speed limits are 15 mph on the visitor center entrance road and 25 mph on Pickett’s Lane (which leads to South Beach). Remember to be es-pecially careful when exiting the American Camp visitor center entrance road. Over the years, several accidents have occurred at this intersection.

English CampEnglish Camp is located about nine miles north-

west of Friday Harbor on West Valley Road. Take Spring Street to Second Street and turn right. At the first stop sign you encounter, Second becomes Guard. Go to the next stop sign and continue to go straight. The street runs past the library, curves right and left, and then becomes Beaverton Val-ley Road. Continue over Cady Mountain (not much altitude gain here—it’s a small mountain) until the road becomes West Valley Road. About 500 feet past the park entrance sign, on the left, is the entrance road to the parade ground that follows the original Military Road.

The speed limit on this gravel track is 15 mph, and we urge you to take it seriously. English Camp may also be

accessed via Roche Harbor Road. To reach Roche Harbor Road from Friday Harbor, turn right at the second stop sign onto Tucker Avenue, which be-comes Roche Harbor Road just outside of town. Con-tinue to West Valley Road and turn left. The parade ground entrance road will be your second right after you pass the park entrance sign.

A word about road safety

Because the island is only 54 square miles (about 16 1/2 miles long and 6 1/2 miles wide at the mid-section), it’s easy to get around. Plus, on island time you don’t have to be in such an all-fired hurry to get anywhere!

If you’re driving an automobile or truck, be espe-

cially mindful of bicycles, mopeds and three-wheeled motorized scooters. They have the same right-of-way as you. If you must pass, do it carefully and do not cross a solid double line. Conversely, cyclists should remember that, while they do have the right-of-way on county roads, it’s considered a courtesy here to

form a single line right. Adults take note: If children are along, be sure to ride both at the front and rear of the pack. Keep your eyes open. You may encoun-ter a deer, fox, or even a river otter crossing the road.

2011 PArk And TrAils GuidE .3


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Basic information

Finding your way to the national parks Fast facts about thenational parks

English and American camps are important archaeological areas dating back 8,000 years to the time of the Coast salish indians. Artifacts such as bottles, buttons, bone pendants, projectile points and fish hooks are on display at the American Camp visitor center.

Both locations are day-use- only areas with picnic tables, open from dawn to 11 p.m. There are no campgrounds available at either camp, but several private facilities and a county-owned campground are available on the island.

Pets must be kept on a leash within park boundaries. Bags are provided to clean up after them. Please respect the leash law — it not only protects fragile plants and wildlife, but other visitors and their pets as well.

Because artifacts are protected under federal law, collecting, digging or using metal detectors is prohibited. Please do not disturb natural features and ruins. You may collect fruits, nuts, unoccupied seashells and mushrooms.

Off-road travel (by vehicles or mopeds) is not allowed in the park. Bicycling is permitted only on gravel paths.

use or possession of fireworks is prohibited year-round.

Horseback riding is allowed by permit in designated areas only.

do not hunt, trap or use firearms on park lands.

Special Programs

America’s Pastime at American Camp — It is likely that the new game of base ball (two words then) was played by the soldiers posted at Ameri-can Camp. Join Park Ranger, and co-founder of the annual vintage base ball matches at Fort Vancouver NHS, Doug Halsey for a workshop on thisgloveless game, where unruly “cranks” (fans) could be � ned by the umpire! You will be surprised at the other differences, and similarities, to today’s rules. 10 a.m. to noon, Saturday, June 25, American Camp parade ground

San Juan and Civil War — Park Historian Mike Vouri explores the impact of the American Civil War on San Juan Island, the other soliders stationed here. He also touches on how the secession crisis affected Washington Territory and the Paci� c Coast before and immediately after Confederate forces � red on Fort Sumter 7 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., Friday, July 8, San Juan Island Library

Northwest Pioneer Folkways Demonstrations — Janet Oakley, former Education Coordinator for the Skagit County Historical Museum in La Conner, dem-onstrates pioneer folkways from butter churning to Dutch oven baking and other tasks. Noon to 3 p.m., Saturday, July 16, English Camp parade ground.

Encampment 2011 — Park staff, volunteers and re-enactors from throughout the region recreate life on San Juan Island at mid-19th century. The major

highlight of the weekend will be the Candlelight Ball, an evening of dancing and refreshments, scheduled 8 to 10 p.m. on Saturday. All day, Saturday and Sunday July 23 & 24, English Camp.

A Prairie’s Life — in a region known for its ample amount of rainfall, lush forest and coastal climate, American Camp’s prairie is unique in the Puget

Sound/Salish Sea Basin. Join Park Historian Mike Vouri and Integrated Resources Chief Jerald Weaver for a journey across time as they explore changes in teh resource from the glacier to today’s restoration efforts. 7 to 8:30 p.m., Monday, August 1, San Juan Island Libray.

Pickett’s Irish: The Irish in the U.S. Army in the 1850s — Folk musician Michael Cohen and historian Mike Vouri bring back this popular program that takes a closer look at the Irish in the U.S. Army in words and song. 3 to 4:30 p.m., Saturday, August 6, English Camp barracks.

A Weaving Weekend — Weavers from San Juan Is-land and Washington State will gather for the week-end to demonstrate how European and American In-dian techniques melded to create woven objects and clothing unique to the Paci� c Northwest. Cowlitz Nation weaver Judy Bridges and Fort Nisqually inter-preter and storyteller Karen Haas will show how it was done with all-natural � bers. All day, Saturday and Sunday, August 27-28, English Camp parade ground.

2011 National Parks Summer Special Program Schedule

Programs are free and open to the public, except where noted. Programs are subject to change. For updates and accessibility information, call (360) 378-2240, ext. 2227.

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Visit the 1894 James King Farmhouse and several historic structures which include the original 1890’s

San Juan County Jail.

Located a short distance from the ferry in Friday Harbor.

San Juan Historical Museum405 Price StreetFriday Harbor, WA 98250

360.378.3949sjmuseum.org

Hours: May–September, Wed.–Sat. 10-4, Sun. 1-4April–October, Sat. 1 – 4

November–March by appointment

Step Back in Time

Tours of the museum can be made at other times and days by appointment.

Park staff, volunteers and re-enactors from through-out the region recreate life on San Juan Island at mid-19th century. Encampment 2011 will be July 23 & 24

2011 PARK AND TRAILS GUIDE .5


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2011 National Historical Park Summer Program ScheduleDaily Programs

Walk to the Eagle’s Nest — Curious as to where the American Camp bald eagles are now nesting? Ask a staff member to show you! An easy 10-min-ute, (one-way) walk on the new Fraser Homestead trail. Daily, to August 27, American Camp

Scoping the Osprey — Want to know about ospreys nesting above English Camp parade ground? Check out our spoting scope at the East ehnd of the Royal Marine barracks. A park ranger or volunteer is always on duty to answer your questions. Daily, to August 27, American

Weekly Programs

Winter Village and Bell Point Trail Nature Walk — Take a ranger-guided or volunteer walk along the shoreline and through the Paci� c madrona forest and learn about 2,500 years of contin-uous occupation. 11:00 to 12:30 p.m., Saturdays, to August 27, meets in the English Camp barracks

Life During the Joint Military Oc-cupation on San Juan Island — Park rangers and volunteers recreate military and civilian life during the island’s early pioneer period. Activities may include blacksmithing, coopering, weaving, needlework and exhibitions of military equipment and skills. 12:00 to 3:00 p.m., Saturdays, to August 27, Eng-lish Camp parade ground. On June 18, this program will take place at the San Juan Historical Museum instead of English Camp.

Preserving the Prairie Walk — The prairie at American Camp is onr of the last natural prairies in the region. Join Park Ranger M Karraker to learn about its past and discover how you can play a role in its future. 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., Saturdays, to August 27, meets at American Camp Visitor Center

A Bird Walk through the Prai-rie — The prairie at American Camp attracts a variety of birds throughout the summer, and offers a prime bird-ing and hiking experience. Join park staff in enjoying this wonderful island

resource. 10 a.m. to Noon, Sundays, to August 27, meets at American Camp Visitor Center

The Habitats of Jakle’s Lagoon and Mount Finlayson — So much variety in so little distance! Accompany a staff member along this three-mile loop that passes through salt water lagoons, co-niferous forests, and upland prairie. 1 p.m. to 3 p.m., Sundays, to August 27, meets in the Jakle’s Lagoon Trail head Parking Area

Contra Dancing at English Camp — Folk singer Michael Cohen and local folk musicians present an evening of trditional folk tunes and dancing for those wishing a turn on the � oor. Cohen plays regularly at the San juan Farmer’s Market. He worked with the Smithsonian in cataloging American folk music. 7:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., Mon-days, June 20 to August 15, meets in the English Camp barracks

Hike with Mike (Young Hill/Royal Marine Cemetery) — Serious hikers will enjoy this 2-hour journey, led by Park Historian Mike Vouri up the slope

of 650-foot Young Hill, where the summit offers splendid views of the Juan de Fuca and Haro straits, Vancou-ver Island and the Olympic Mountains. See the Royal Marine Cemetery and the Garry oak woodland. 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. , Wednesdays, to August 27, meets at the North end of the English Camp parking area

Hike with Mike (Fraser Homestead) — Many of today’s island families are descended from U.S. Army sol-diers. Join Park Historian Mike Vouri and learn more about how American Camp’s “frontiersmen in blue” played a key role in pioneering Euro-American settlement on San Juan Island. Vouri also will discuss how agriculture opera-tions changed the character of island landscapes, especially on the American Camp prairie.2 p.m. to 4 p.m. , Fridays, to Au-

gust 27, meets at American Camp Visitor Center

Hike with Mike (Young Hill/Royal — Serious hikers

will enjoy this 2-hour journey, led by Park Historian Mike Vouri up the slope

6. 2011 Park and Trails Guideenglish Camp Trails

Young Hill trail—Hike this fairly steep trail up 650 feet to the top of Young Hill for a panoramic view of the island group’s northwest corner, Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Novice walkers should take care to pace themselves as most of the gain is in the last half mile. An exhibit panel identifying geographic features is mounted on an overlook about two-thirds of the way up the hill. (1.25 mi.)

royal Marine cemetery—The Royal Marine cemetery is about 50 yards off the Young Hill trail, about a third of the way up. Five Royal Marines are interred, and a memorial stone is in place for two other marines. A stone also commemorates a civilian who was accidentally shot by his brother while hunting.

Bell Point trail—Walk the mile-long, fairly level trail to Bell Point for a view of Westcott Bay. If you like to harvest shellfish, check with the park ranger at the visitor center for information on licensing, locations, daily limits and red tide warnings. (2-mi. loop)

self-guided walk—Relive the Royal Marine era along the trail that starts at the base of the main entrance trail. Pick up a guide in the box next to the bulletin board and follow the numbered posts. When finished, please return it to the box provided at the end of the walk. Or, you can purchase a guide for a $1 donation at the visitor center. (.25 mi.)

english formal garden—The flower and herb garden—originally known as the strawberry garden—lies between the officers’ quarters site and the parade ground. The camp’s second commanding officer had it built for his family to remind them of home.

roche Harbor trail—Follow in the footsteps of the Royal Marines to Roche Harbor Village. Ask a park ranger or volunteer for directions to the trail connection completed in 2010 in partnership with the San Juan Island Trails Committee. (3 mi.)

national Park Visitor Center resources

Both American Camp and English Camp (summer only) have visitor centers with maps, books, gifts and more. The bookstore at American Camp is more comprehensive. Here are some of the more popular guides and books.

Friday Harbor, by Mike and Julia Vouri.

Images of America: The Pig War, by Mike Vouri.

The Pig War: Standoff at Griffin Bay, by Mike Vouri.

Outpost of Empire: The Royal Marines and the Joint Occupation of San Juan Island, by Mike Vouri.

Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast: Washington, Oregon, British Columbia & Alaska, by Jim Pojar and Andy MacKinnon.

Wild Plants of the San Juan Islands, by Scott Atkinson & Fred Sharpe.

The Butterflies of Cascadia: A Field Guide to All the Species of Washington, Oregon and Surrounding Territories, by Robert Michael Pyle.

Seashore Life of the Northern Pacific Coast, an Illustrated Guide to Northern California, Oregon, Washington and British Columbia, by Eugene N. Kozloff.

Birds of the Puget Sound Region, by Morse, Averza and Opperman.

Birding in the San Juan Islands, by Mark G. Lewis and Fred A. Sharpe.

The Audubon Society Field Guide to the Bald Eagle.

American Cetacean Society Field Guide to the Orca.

The Restless Northwest: A Geological Study, by Hill Williams.

Guide to Native Wildflowers of American Camp, by Julia Vouri.

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Garrison Bay

Westcott Bay

Guss Island

Bell PointTrail

Young HillTrail

Royal Marine Cemetery

Young Hill 650 ft (198m)

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Va

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Roche Harbor Trail

Hospital

Storehouse

Officers’QuartersSite

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Bell Point

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Lagoon and Self-guided Walk Trail

Park Boundary

DNR Cattle Point Interpretive Area

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Pickett’s Lane Mt. Finlayson290 ft. (88m)

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Frazer Homestead Trail

Rosler Road

Self-guided history walk—Relive the Pig War along the trail that starts and finishes in the visitor center parking area. Pick up guides in boxes at the trailhead and follow the numbers. (1.25 mi.)

Frazer Homestead trail—Trace the route of the old Military Road from the Visitor Center north to Rosler Road on this joint project of the park, the San Juan Island Trails Committee and the San Juan County Land Bank. Highlights include a pine forest. (1.7 mi.)

Prairie walks—Primitive tracks crisscross the prairie and trace the bluff from Grandma’s Cove to South Beach and back to the visitor center via the Redoubt. A great place for viewing Orca whales, the Redoubt also offers a regional perspective with views of Mt. Baker, the Olympic and Cascade ranges, Vancouver Island, and on an exceptionally clear day, even Mt. Rainier, 130 miles up Admiralty Inlet. Sweeping views are also plentiful from the Cattle Point and Redoubt roads and Pickett’s Lane. Walkers are advised to use caution as rabbits have excavated warrens throughout the prairie. (2.5 mi.)

Grandma’s Cove—Stroll downhill to one of the finest beaches on the island. Use caution when descending the bluff. (.25 mi.)

Mt. Finlayson trail—Hike along the grassy ridge to the top of Mt. Finlayson where you can see Mt. Baker to the east, Mt. Rainier to the southeast, the Olympic Mountains to the south and Vancouver Island, British Columbia to the west. Come back the way you came, or, for a change of scenery, go through Jakle’s Lagoon. (3-mi. loop)

Jakle’s Lagoon trail—Pick up a self-guided walk booklet, hike along the old roadbed and enjoy the quiet of a Douglas fir, cedar and hemlock canopy. This wooded area shelters deer and many types of birds, and is one of the most popular hiking areas on San Juan Island. (1.5 mi.)

South Beach—Walk along the longest public beach on the island. This is a great place to see an abundance of shorebirds, and in spring and summer, Orca whales. The beach is mainly gravel, so shoes or sandals are advised. Fires are limited to grates in the picnic areas. (2 mi.)

Trails range from leisurely tostrenuous.

Ask a park ranger or volunteer about the best hike for you.

For you very own couch copy, call us!For a subscription please call Frances Bacon at 360-378-5695

Whether you read us on the couch,on the ferry, on your boat or on your deck.

Have us deliveredstraight to your

mailbox!

The Journalof the San Juan Islands

American Camp Trails



Take a walk on the wild side

1. Pipeline Trail2. Friday Harbor - American Camp3. Friday Harbor - Jack-son’s Beach4. Roche Harbor - English Camp5. San Juan County Park - Lime Kiln State Park6. Cross-Island Trail7. Friday Harbor Walking Trail (Ballfields Trail)8. Nature Trail(s) - Site yet to be determined

A T T E N T I O N J O U R N A L R E A D E R S

Don’t see the story in print? Check it out on www.sanjuanjournal.com

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8. 2011 PARK ANd TRAILS GuIdE


The only drawback to hiking on the west side of San Juan Island is having to decide which trail to take. There’s not enough time in one day to do it all, so set aside two or three.

Mount Finlayson/South Beach: Only 295 feet tall, Mount Finlayson is generously named, but it towers over the southern tip of the island just the same. It is one of the most popular hiking areas for locals and visitors alike. Take the ridge line trail and the Olympic Mountains are seem-

ingly an arm’s length away, and the views over Haro and Juan de Fuca straits, and Vancouver Island to the west, are unmatched.

At the summit, a prairie of golden grass tumbles down

the hill and to the beach below. On the north side, a trail drops down from the parking lot into

a dense, cool forest of fir trees, snakes by a pair

of saltwater lagoons, and climbs to the top of the ridge where the

two trails intersect. Lime Kiln State Park/Lime

Kiln Preserve: Two are indeed better than one when it comes

hiking in the middle of the island’s west side. The state park and the county-owned nature preserve together host a network of hik-ing trails that stretch from the shoreline to a series of rugged and rocky cliffs that overlook Haro Strait and onto Vancouver Island and beyond. The park, home to a historic lighthouse and a killer whale-watch park, and the nature preserve, the site of a former lime-stone mining operation, feature more than 210 acres of assorted natural habitat and varied terrain combined. (The footing on some of the preserve’s bluffs can be un-stable, so heed the warning signs).

Mount Young: You’ll stroll beneath a forested canopy, by an 1860s British Marine cemetery, which dates to the joint military occupation of the island, and along open meadows dotted by Garry oaks on a half-mile hike to the summit. The final leg is steep, but the view from the 650-foot summit, which spans the entire south end of the island and be-yond, is unmatched.

Roche Harbor Highlands/Mitchell Hill: At the north end of the island, the Highlands of-fer more than 10 miles of hiking

trails, including a marquee 3-mile loop around a large freshwater reservoir. Trails lead to Mitchell Hill, a 386-acre state recreation site. It takes about an hour to circle the reservoir at a steady pace and chances are you’ll see a bald eagle, a blue heron or a gaggle of ducks along the way. The reservoir is a rest-stop of migrating trumpeter swans in the winter. Mitchell Hill features a vari-ety of terrain, some rugged, some not, dense forests and a seasonal stream that runs along its south-ern border. Trails from Mitchell Hill also connect to the back side of Mount Young and connect to the Highlands as well. If you enjoy the feeling of being lost in the woods, even though you know you’re not, this is the place to be.

Hiking resources online:

www.sanjuanislandtrails.orgwww.parks.wa.govwww.sanjuanco.com/parkswww.co.san-juan.wa.us/

land_bankwww.guidetosanjuans.com

Existing Trails & Proposed Priority Trail Corridors

(2007 - 2012)

Anemone Clone War rages in San Juan Island WatersDr. Lisbeth Francis

While British and Americans settled their dispute peacefully here in 1872, a more primitive territorial battle continues to this day on the wave-swept rocks at Grandma’s Cove, with boundaries drawn between clones rather than nations. Dr. Lisbeth Francis (W.W.U. Shannon Point Marine Center and U.W. Friday Harbor Labs) found that as the common local sea anemone Anthopleura elegantissima grows, it divides and spreads to monopolize and defend a territory. Look closely in the tide pools and you may find subtle differences in the color markings of different clones.

Those in a single cluster are from the same original founder and look alike: they all have the same genes. But whereas clonemates live peaceably together, they vigorously attack outsiders. Look for small, gaps (less than an inch wide) between the groups, and for the specialized weaponry - white spheres (acrorhagi) below the feeding tentacles. Witnessing these battles requires patience: warrior anemones attack very slowly, stretching, bending and rubbing their neighbors with their acrorhagi to apply tiny, white scraps of tissue full of poisonous stinging capsules.

Warrior anemones at Grandma’s Cove: the clonal aggregating anemone, Anthopleura elegantis-sima, showing the round, white acrorhagi used to attack anemones from different clones.



MarineParks

About a dozen outer islands, such as Stuart and Sucia, offer camp-sites on a � rst-come, � rst-serve ba-sis, and which generally � ll up fast. Jones and Sucia islands have group campsites which can be reserved. Patos, the northernmost island

in San Juan County, has a historic lighthouse built in 1893. Blind Bay Marine Park, on Blind Island between Orcas and Shaw, has four campsites which are coveted by kayakers; it also has four moor-ing buoys. Turn Island, located near San Juan Island’s Turn Point, is popular with kayakers and, like several marine parks, is a federally-designated wildlife refuge. Marine parks with campsites and

that are not part of the San Juans wildlife refuge: Clark Island, east of Orcas Island; James Island, west of Decatur Island; and Posey and Stuart, north of San Juan. Potable water is rarely available at the ma-rine parks, so bring your own. Call 360-378-2044 or 360-376-2073, or visit www.parks.wa.gov.

Sunny days, starry nights and the waterfront at your � ngertips: camping on San Juan IslandBy Scott RasmussenWith everyone trying to save a buck

or two during uncertain economic times like these, demand for campsites in the San Juans may be greater than ever before. On the other hand, it could turn out

to be the year that the waterfront campsite you’ve been pining for is, at last, available. Time will tell. Some things, however, you can bank

on. Snow-capped mountains on the

horizon. Bon� res on the beach. Miles of hiking trails right outside your tent � ap. And more sun-splashed days — 247 a year, on average — than you can shake a marshmallow-roasting stick at. Whether rustic or plush, public

or private, nearly all of the islands’ campgrounds — about 15 in all — are located near the shoreline. Few are more than a minute’s drive from a local hamlet, town or village where supplies, entertainment or a restaurant can be easily found.

San Juan County Park: This 12-acre waterfront park features 20 camp-

sites, moorage and a boat ramp for easy access into Haro Strait. The comings and goings of the killer whales that frequent the waterways of the San Juans are a familiar sight from the shore of this popular campground and recreation site.And the sunsets are beyond

compare.Group sites must be reserved in

advance in summer months; sorry, no showers, but party ice is avail-able. Call 360-378-2992 or visit www.co.san-juan.wa.us/Parks.

Lakedale Resort, 360-378-4762, www.lakedale.com.With 195 campsites, 19 of which

accommodate RVs, Lakedale is the primary camping attraction on San Juan Island. The 82-acre resort has three trout-stocked lakes, beach volleyball, canoes, paddle boats, showers, several swim areas and a general store, which offers groceries, camping supplies, � shing equipment and bait.

Mitchell Bay Landing, 360-378-9296 www.mitchellbaylanding.com. Camp sites for tents, RVs, vehicles Porta-Potties with handwashing sta-tions, potable bottled water and well

water.

Snug Harbor Marina Resort, 360-378-4762, www.snugresort.com, For-est campsites, boat launch, kayaking and whale watching tours and marina.

At Lakedale Resort, you can paddle a boat, row a canoe, or toss in a � shing line.

Many of the key American play-ers in the Pig

War incident, on and off island, went on to serve in the American Civil War in both Confederate and Union ranks. For some the war brought fame, promotion and long careers. For others, it brought death, destruc-tion, lasting heartache and legend.

American Camp remained an active U.S. Army installation garri-soned entirely by regular Army soldiers who rotated between Northwest Washington and the battlefields of the East. The enlisted soldiers probably counted their blessings to be away from the fray, while the officers chafed for glory and the promotions that were certain to follow. Here are our top four:

Born January 28, 1825, George E. Pickett was commander of Camp Pickett, San Juan Island, from July 27, 1859 to August 10, 1859; and again from April 28, 1860 to July 25, 1861. Promoted to brigadier general in Janu-ary 1862, he served in the Seven Days campaign and was seriously wounded dent of John Alden and Priscilla Mullins of Mayflower fame. As commander of the U.S. Coast Survey Ship Active, Alden was directly involved in the

Pig War crisis, as the Active served as a messenger ship throughout the incident. The senior Alden was one of the U.S. Navy’s most stalwart captains, commanding three different warships on blockade duty during the Civil War. As commander of the steam sloop U.S.S. Brooklyn, he led Admiral David Farragut’s battle line into Mobile Bay. When Alden stopped under heavy fire to locate and clear mines, one of which had sunk the ironclad U.S.S. Tecumseh with all hands (save two), Farragut, aboard the U.S.S.Hartford, is said to have shouted, “Damn the torpedoes, four bells (or full speed ahead)!”

Winfield Scott was born June 13, 1786 near Petersburg, Virginia. He was known as the “Great Pacificator” because twice he helped settle border disputes with the British—at San Juan

Island and in the 1830s near the town of Aroostook, Maine. As commanding general of the U.S. Army at the start the Civil War, the 74-year-old Scott knew that the war would be long and bloody and planned accordingly. He drafted a strategy that would give the North strategic advantage by occupy-ing or blockading areas critical to the survival of the Confederacy as an inde-pendent nation. Scott finally resigned in November 1861 with Maj. Gen. George McClellan succeeding him as commanding general of all Union forces. Three bloody years would pass before the Union Army finally realized Scott’s vision under Ulysses S. Grant, a pre-war friend of George Pickett.

James W. Forsyth was born August 8, 1835 in Maumee, Ohio. He was sec-ond, then first lieutenant of Company D, 9th Infantry from December 1856 to July 1861. During the war, Forsyth served on the staff of Maj. Gen. Philip H. Sheridan, where he became closely acquainted with a brash young officer named George A. Custer. Forsyth remained in the army and closely aligned with Sheridan following the war. As a full colonel, he commanded the Seventh Cavalry (Custer’s regiment) at Wounded Knee Creek on December 29, 1890. He survived an attempted censure from Brig. Gen. Nelson Miles, his immediate superior, and retired a major general.

10. 2011 Park and TrailS GuidE


Pig War officers went off to the fight

From left; George Pickett and James alden were among several Pig War officers who went on to play key roles in the american Civil War. alden’s moment came when he led the union line into Mobile Bay in august 1864.

american legion Museum, American Legion Post 163, First Street, Friday Harbor. 360-378-5705, www.post163.org. See artifacts, memorabilia, photographs and uniforms from wars in which islanders served, including World War I, World War II, Korea and Vietnam.

downtown Friday Harbor. Memo-rial Park, at the foot of Spring and Front streets, dates to the 1890s; the monument was dedicated in 1921 to honor local sailors and soldiers who died in World War I. A walking tour brochure takes you to 26 historic homes and buildings; pick up a brochure at Friday Harbor Town Hall, the San Juan Historical Museum and local bookstores.

San Juan aviation Museum, in the Roy Franklin Terminal at Friday Harbor Airport. Exhibits trace the aviation history of the island — from the days when local aviation pioneer Roy Franklin would buzz the cows to clear a landing spot in San Juan Valley, to the development of one of the busiest airports in the state.

lime kiln lighthouse on the island’s west side was built in 1917. It is a summer station for killer whale researchers.

roche Harbor Village, 360-378-2155, www.rocheharbor.com. The Hotel de Haro was built in 1886 to house customers of

the Tacoma and Roche Harbor Lime Co. Ask for a walking tour brochure and visit the old quarries, the mausoleum, and Our Lady of Good Voyage Chapel, built in 1889.

San Juan Historical Museum, 405 Price St., Friday Harbor. 360-378-3949, www.sjmuseum.org. Visit an 1894 farm-house, the original county jail, a pioneer log cabin and other heritage buildings. Feel free to picnic on the grounds.

San Juan national Historical Park, 360-378-2902, www.nps.gov/sajh. Build-ings at American Camp, on the southern end of the island, and English Camp, on the northern end at Garrison Bay, date to 1859-60 and are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. These camps are where U.S. and British troops were stationed during the territory dispute of 1859-1872.

Valley Church in San Juan Valley was built in 1892. The cemetery has sweeping views of the valley.

The Whale Museum, 62 First St., Fri-day Harbor, 360-378-4710, www.whale-museum.com. The museum is located in a restored 1892 Oddfellows Lodge. The museum is devoted to the study of marine mammals, particularly the endangered pods of local killer whales.

Historic Parks and Museums of San Juan

Images of the human history that set the stage for what the islands are today are tightly woven into the land-scape and still fresh at hand.

Depending on what bend in the road or turn of the hiking trail you take, you just might stumble upon a rustic-looking barn that’s nearly 100 years old and that served as the hub of a flourishing commercial enterprise at the turn of the century, when the San Juans were known as the “Bread Basket” of the Puget Sound region and agricultural production was at its zenith.

A batch of cherries harvested in the islands earned top prize in its category back in 1909 when Seattle played host to the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition, a four-month-long extravaganza that showcased the era’s leading inventions and innovations, and agricultural prod-ucts as well, and that drew 3.7 million people from across the globe.

Or, you may wander into a souvenir shop that was once home to a pioneer family that scratched out a living by

netting fish from the local waters and who’s half-dozen children attended class in a one-room schoolhouse that’s been renovated, given a new lease on life and still stands at its original location about a mile or so down the road. The names of numerous pioneer families are attached to many of the islands’ streets and gravel roads.

You’ll be tracing the steps of the islands’ earliest inhabitants as you stroll the rocky shorelines or comb the sandy beaches of the San Juan archipelago. Human history began with the com-ings and goings of various Coast Salish tribes and the eventual formation of villages by several of them. Salish-speaking people, chiefly the Lummi, Samish and Swinomish, fished, hunted, traded and maintained a large pres-ence in the islands until the late 1880s. In fact, no fewer than 10 Lummi vil-lages were scattered across the islands at one time. The main village was situated in what is now the core of Eastsound Village on Orcas Island and boasted three longhouses back in the

day. Names like Smallpox Bay, Skull Island

and Massacre Bay are chilling, yet intriguing at the same time, remind-ers of the cultural clash that occurred generations ago.

Farming, fishing and logging were the mainstays of the islands’ pioneer economy, but the islands’ fractured topography also lured a long line of bootleggers, smugglers and disen-chanted sailors who decided to jump ship, and who took advantage of the archipelago’s many channels, hidden coves and complicated web of islands to play cat-and-mouse with the au-thorities of the day.

You can actually reach out and touch the vestiges of what was arguably the most pivotal point in the history of the

San Juans, the joint occupation by U.S. and British troops of San Juan Island, from 1859 to 1872. The peaceful settlement of the two nations’ inter-national boundary dispute, commonly referred to as the Pig War, stands as a testament to the power of diplomacy and a defining epoch in island history. Had Kaiser Wilhelm I, who mediated the settlement, sided with the Brit-ish, the San Juans would belong to Canada.

The National Parks Service com-memorates the peaceful settlement by keeping much of both military encampments in tact at two separate historic parks, American Camp at San Juan Island’s south end, and English Camp to the north.

Exploring the history of the San Juan islands is rather easy to do.

For All Your Land Surveying & Planning Needs

Robert M. Anderson, PLS 640 Mullis St., Suite 102A

Assisting You with YourDream in Paradise!

STAR SURVEYING, INC.

By Scott RasmussenThe San Juan Islands are part of a des-

ignated national wildlife refuge consist-ing of 83 rocks, reefs, grassy islands, and forested islands.

This refuge, totaling almost 450 acres, was established to protect colonies of nesting seabirds, including double-crested cormorants, pelagic cormorants and pigeon guillemots. They also attract a variety of other wildlife, including bald eagles and harbor seals.

The San Juans also has the nation’s only park set aside for land-based whale watching: at Lime Kiln State Park on San Juan Island.

When you observe wildlife in the San Juans, you are watching something very special.

The pods of killer whales that spend much of the year here are endangered and protected by federal law. The popu-lation was 99 in 1995, then dropped to 79 in 2001. It climbed to 80 in 2002, 83 in 2003, 85 in 2004 and, in 2005, 89. It has seesawed the past few years and is now 86, according to the Center for Whale Research.

The National Marine Fisheries Services believes pollution, availability of prey and effects from vessels and sound are major threats to the whales’ health.

Few experiences compare with the sight of a killer whale emerging from the deep or the sensation of its massive pres-ence when it breaks the water’s surface. The local killer whales are icons of the Pacific Northwest.

The San Juans are home to the highest

concentration of bald eagles in Wash-ington state. The islands also are home to barn owls, golden eagles, osprey, peregrine falcons and turkey vultures. The great blue heron, a hypnotic and me-thodical hunter, is a common sight on the islands’ wetlands, shores and tidal flats.

Beyond the shore, you may see harbor seals, sea otters and Dall’s porpoises, which often are mistaken for killer whales

because of a similar dark dorsal fin. Steller sea lions, which can weigh more than 2,000 pounds, are seasonal visitors. Minke whales also frequent these waters.

Along the shoreline and in the inte-rior, the islands host a variety of species which are, compared to their mainland counterparts, seemingly more at ease in human company. A crafty gang of the largest ravens you’ve ever seen rule the

roost at the top of Mount Constitution on Orcas Island. Keep a close watch on your munchables should you decide to picnic there. Ravens notwithstanding, it’s an excellent location.

Black-tailed deer are ubiquitous throughout the islands and, though scrawnier than their main-land cousins, stroll boldly through neighborhoods in search of tasty snacks of flowers or greenery. They’re cute but considered a nuisance by many island gardeners.

Ferrets and raccoons maintain modest but healthy populations on islands where hobby farms and agriculture-based enterprises flourish. On San Juan, foxes hunt and play on the American Camp prairie.

Before you jump on-board the ferry, make sure to keep the binoculars

and camera nearby. There’s an amazing amount of wildlife in the San Juans and with a little patience and a sharp eye you’re sure to capture more than a few lasting memories.

(Wildlife watching tip: Wildlife are ex-actly that — wild. Watch from a distance. Don’t feed them.

The San Juans are part of a national wildlife refuge

Julie Corey Photo

The Southern resident pods of killer whales, or orcas, are endangered. Local, state and federal laws are designed to help their population rebound.

Island fare,Local produce,Local meats, seafood,Comfort dishes, Pizza, Charbroiled burgersSmoker BBQ

Live Island music

24 Draft Taps, Full bar

Extensive wine list

Happy hour

Tourists welcome

Family friendly

We support local farmers, musicians & artists

378-5555175 First Street

OPEN Monday - SundayLunch and Dinner

2011 Park and TraiLS Guide .11



Exploring the Salish Sea

Dall’s porpoisesIt’s easy to mistake a Dall’s porpoise for an Orca whale. The markings are similar, but they’re only about six feet long and have a much smaller dorsal � n. Look

for their telltale rooster-tail spray as they slice through the water at up to 30 knots

and play “chicken”before the bows of boats.

Minke whalesMinke whales regularly swim past South Beach at American Camp, but their dark, slim bodies, swiftsurfacing movements and nearly invisible blows can be overlooked in all but the calmest sea. The smallest of baleen whales at 25 to 35 feet, they approach smaller boats out of curiosity.

SealsHike to the bluffs overlooking the

Strait of Juan de Fuca at American Camp and look down. You may see one or more harbor seals sunning on the rocks or lolling in the water,

heads up like periscopes. If so, please keep your

distance. As marine mam-mals, pinnipeds are

protected under the Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972, which forbids

“hunting, killing, cap-ture, and/or harassment

of any marine mammal; or, the attempt at such.”

The law

also pertains to dogs, and is one of many reasons why they must be leashed at all times in the park.

Harbor seals are the most com-monly observed marine mammals in the park, as females often leave their young on the beaches for up to 24 hours while out foraging for food. Visitors may approach the pups believing they are in danger, which causes stress and dehydration and frightens off the mother.

In recent years, other pinnipeds

San Juan Island National Historical Park sits in the heart of the Salish Sea, a region named for its � rst stewards, the Strait Coast Salish peoples. One of the most diverse—and fragile—marine ecosystems in the world, it in-cludes Puget Sound, Georgia Strait and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Here is a sampling of marine life that may be seen from the park’s shorelines.

such as molting elephant seals and California sea lions have appeared, with the former remaining for weeks at a time.

To ensure the safety and well-being of pinnipeds and humans alike, the park may close a section of beach until the animals depart. However, the accepted practice— onshore, in a kayak or boat—is

to remain 200 yards away from haul-out sites.

“If even one seal ac-knowledges your pres-ence by lifting its head and looking at you, you’re

too close,” said Amy Traxler of the San Juan County Marine Mammal Stranding Network. “Slowly back up and leave the area.“ Next contact the visitor center or call the Strand-ing Network at 1-800-562-8832.

For more information: http://www.whalemuseum.

org/programs/mmsn

A harbor seal pup awaits the return of its mother on South Beach in 2009. Please do not approach within 200 yards of these animals.

Orca whalesAs you walk the bluffs of American Camp between May and September, listen for the soft spouting of Washington’s state marine mammal—the Orca whale, aka Killer whale. You’ll see more than one. They travel in large family groups, or pods, that often stay together for life and have been observed breathing in unison. These “whales” are actually dolphins that propel themselves through the water at great speeds, and true to their acrobatic status, they breach, lobtail, � ipper-slap and spy-hop. If you’re lucky, you may spot the dorsal � n of one of the males. At six feet, they are the tallest in the sea.


San Juan Transit & Tours: 378-8887 or (800) 887-8387Regularly scheduled routes north to English Camp during the summer season with a reservation-only schedule to American Camp three times daily. Guided tours available.

Bob’s Taxi & Tours:378-6777 or (877) 4-TAXIBOBService to all points on request.

Bob’s Taxi & Tours:378-6777 or (877) 4-TAXIBOBService to all points on request.

San Juan Taxi:378-3550 or 378-TAXI

Classic Cab Company378-7519

Island Bicycles: 378-4941Bicycles.

Susie’s Mopeds: 378-5244 or (800) 532-0087Mopeds and automobiles.

SJI Marine Center: 378-6202 Electric boats, runabouts, kayaks, � shing kayaks and high-speed water taxies.

M&W Rental Cars:378-2794 or (800) 323-6037Automobile rentals and sales.

Island Tours/Taxi:378-4453

IslandTransportation

Whale Watching $10.00 toWhale Watch ParkTransit, Tours

& Charters

[email protected] www.sanjuantransit.com

$15.00 Day PassHourly Departures To:

Roche Harbor Resort,Lavendar Farm, Vineyards

Alpaca Ranch,Sculpture Park

Hiking Trails, and more 378-8887

Parks and Trails Guide

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