TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASYPARIS

Catherine Le Nevez

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In This Book

QuickStart GuideYour keys to under-standing the city – we help you decide what to do and how to do it

Survival GuideTips and tricks for a seamless, hassle-free city experience

Top SightsMake the most of your visit

Need to KnowTips for a hassle-free trip

Getting AroundTravel like a local

Local LifeThe insider's city

Neighbourhoods What’s where

Essential InformationIncluding where to stay

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artistic movements is a must. (p 58 )

Musée de l’Orangerie Monet conceived a stun-ning cycle of his Water Lilies series especially for this building. (pictured left; p 58 )

Best Modern & Contemporary Art Museums Musée National d’Art Moderne The country’s national modern and con-temporary art museum, located within the striking Centre Pompidou. (p 90 )

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris Paris’ modern art mu-seum spans the 20th century to the present day. (p 40 )

Dalí Espace Montmar-tre Showcases the work

of the surrealist master. (p 78 )

Best Photography Museums Jeu de Paume France’s national photography centre. (p 59 )

Maison Européenne de la Photographie Excel-lent photography exhib-its. (p 98 )

Best Specialised Museums Musée du Vin Wine museum (with tastings, too). (p 176 )

Galerie Musée Baccarat Crystal museum. (p 41 )

Musée du Parfum Per-fume museum; displays bottles and bottling in its annex. (p 60 )

The cultured French capital has literally scores of museums, harbouring treasures from through-out the ages. There’s everything from major na-tional institutions to super-specialised museums highlighting a single – sometimes o beat – subject. Temporary exhibitions take place in diverse venues – keep an eye out for what’s on while you’re in town.

Planning Your Visit Most museums close one day a week, usually Mon-day or Tuesday; many open late one or more nights a week – usually the least crowded time to visit. You’ll also save time by prepurchasing tickets online where possible. Remember that the cut-o for entry to mu-seums is generally half an hour to an hour before the o cial closing times (including times listed in this book). Audioguides are sometimes included with admission, but often incur an extra charge.

Paris’ best art and specialty museums are listed below. See p 180 for the best history museums, and p 193 for the best multicultural museums.

National Museums Free Entry If you can, time your trip to be here on the rst Sunday of the month when you can visit the musées nationaux (national museums; www.rmn.fr, in French) as well as a handful of monuments for free (some during certain months only – see also p 195 ). Temporary exhibitions still incur a charge.

City Museums Free EntryYou can visit the permanent collections of selected musées municipaux (city-run museums; www.paris.fr) for free any time. Temporary exhibitions incur a charge.

Best Impressionist Collections Musée d’Orsay France’s national museum for impressionist and related

MuseumsBest

y Top Tips Save money by in-

vesting in a museum pass (p 206 ) or taking advantage of combo deals o ered by some museums.

Museum admis-sion is often reduced at certain times or on certain days.

Museums gener-ally charge extra for temporary exhibi-tions but often o er a discounted combo rate for permanent and temporary exhibits.

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Worth a trip

Secluded in the Duke of Valmy’s former hunting lodge, the intimate Musée Marmot-tan (www.marmottan.com; 2 rue Louis Boilly, 16e; admission €10/5; h10am-8pm Tue, to 6pm Wed-Sun; mLa Muette) houses the world’s larg-est collection of Claude Monet’s works, including his Impression: Sunrise (1872), after which impressionism was named, plus paint-ings by Gauguin, Sisley, Pissarro, Renoir, Degas and Manet.

Best Museums 179178 Best Museums

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5 Marché aux Fleurs Parisians have been buying bouquets at the Marché aux Fleurs (p 124 ) for centuries. Choose carefully: tradi-tion has it that chrysan-themums are only for cemeteries, carnations bring bad luck, and yel-low roses imply adultery.

6 Shakespeare & Company Amid handpainted quo-tations, make a wish in the wishing well, leave a message on the ‘mirror of love’ or curl up with

a volume of poetry in the attic-like reading library of the magical bookshop Shakespeare & Company (p 139 ).

7 Love Locks Cross Pont de l’Archevêché – one of many Parisian bridges covered in padlocks (to the chagrin of city authorities). The locks are attached by couples who throw the key into the Seine as a symbol of eternal love.

8 Berthillon From the Île de la Cité take Pont St-Louis (p 120 ) to the Île St-Louis, lined with quaint boutiques and tea-rooms, and share an ice cream from famous gla-cier (ice-cream maker) Berthillon (p 122 ).

9 Jardin des Plantes End your romantic meander at the tranquil Jardin des Plantes (p 134 ). For the ultimate denouement, cruise back along the Seine by Batobus (p 204 ).

1 Jardin des Tuileries After taking in the ‘yes-we’re-really-in-Paris’ panorama from place de la Concorde (p 60 ), stroll through the leafy Jardin des Tuileries (p 58 ).

2 Jardin du Palais Royal Browse the colonnaded arcades anking the peaceful Jardin du Palais Royal (p 58 ), ad-joining the 17th-century palace where Louis XIV once lived.

3 Cour Carrée Walk through the Jardin de l’Oratoire to the re ective Cour Car-rée of the Louvre (p 46 ) and exit at the Jardin de l’Infante (Garden of the Princess), which Monet painted in 1867.

4 Square du Vert Galant From the Pont Neuf (p 120 ), take the steps to the park perched at the tip of the Île de la Cité, Square du Vert Galant (p 120 ), before ascending to place du Pont Neuf and crossing place Dauphine.

The Walk The world’s most romantic city has no shortage of beguiling spots, but the Seine and its surrounds are Paris at its most seductive. On this walk, you’ll pass graceful gardens, palaces, intimate parks, a flower market and an enchanting bookshop. Descend the steps along the quays where it’s possible to stroll along the river’s edge.

Start Place de la Concorde; mConcorde

Finish Jardin des Plantes; mGare d’Austerlitz

Length 7km; three hours

5 Take a Break The Seine’s islands – the Île de la Cité and the Île St-Louis – have plenty of enticing places to eat and/or drink, such as Ma Salle à Manger (p 122 ), as well as some picturesque spots for a picnic. Or simply leave it to serendipity (which is, after all, the essence of every great romance).

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2 Van Gogh’s House Théo Van Gogh owned the house at 54 rue Lepic; his brother, the artist Vincent, stayed with him on the 3rd oor for two years from 1886.

3 Renoir’s Dance Hall Montmartre’s two surviving wind-mills are the Moulin Blute-Fin and, 100m east, the Moulin Radet (now a restaurant). In the 19th century, the windmills were turned into the open-air dance hall Le Moulin de la Galette, immortalised by Renoir in his 1876 tableau Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette (now on display at the Musée d’Orsay).

4 Gill’s Mural Look for caricaturist André Gill’s mu-ral Le Lapin à Gill of a rabbit jumping out of a cooking pot on the façade of legendary local cabaret Au Lapin Agile (%01 46 06 85 87; www.au-lapin-agile.com; 22 rue des Saules, 18e; tickets €24/17, no concession Sat; h9pm-2am Tue-Sun; mLamarck-Caulaincourt), and return later for a show.

5 Lunch at La Maison Rose Rendered in lithographs by Utrillo, the hillside-perched, rose-pink cottage La Maison Rose (%01 42 57 66 75; 2 rue de l’Abreuvoir, 18e; menu €17; hlunch daily, dinner Fri-Sun; mLamarck-Caulaincourt) serves well-priced, authentic bistro fare in its cosy rooms and tiny terrace. Hours vary; con rm ahead.

6 Local History Lessons Local history comes to life through paintings and documents at the Musée de Montmartre (www.museedemontmartre.fr, in French; 12 rue Cortot, 18e; admission €8/6; h10am-6pm; mLamarck-Caulaincourt), housed in Montmartre’s oldest building – a 17th-century garden-set manor where Renoir, Utrillo and Dufy once lived.

7 Artists at Work The main square of the original village before it was incorporated into Paris proper, place du Tertre (mAbbesses) has drawn countless painters in its time. While it’s awash with visitors, local, often very talented, artists paint, sketch and sell their creations at stalls here, and the portraitists, buskers and crowds create an unmissable carnival-like atmosphere.

8 The Art of Travel With its original glass canopy and twin wrought-iron lamp posts il-luminating the dark-green-on-lemon-yellow Metropolitain sign still intact, Abbesses is the nest remaining ex-ample of art nouveau designer Hector Guimard’s metro station entrances.

For centuries Montmartre was a bucolic country village filled with moulins (mills) that supplied Paris with flour. But after it was incor-porated into the capital in 1860, its picturesque charm and low rents attracted painters including Manet, Degas, Renoir, Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, Dufy, Picasso, Utrillo, Modigliani and Dalí in its late 19th- and early 20th-century heyday.

Art in MontmartreLocal Life

1 The Ninth Art Bandes dessinées (comics) are known as le neuvième art (the ninth art), and the colourful little shop Temps Libre (28 rue Lepic, 18e; h3.30-7.30pm Mon, 11am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 11am-1pm Sun; mBlanche) is perfect for whiling away time poring over its huge selection of comics and graphic novels, from Tintin and As-terix to Marvel and manga editions.

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exchange rates, check www.xe.com.

Visa is the most widely accepted credit card, followed by MasterCard. American Express and Diners Club cards are only accepted at more exclusive establishments. Some restaurants don’t accept credit cards.

Many automated services, such as ticket machines, require a chip-and-pin credit card. Ask your bank for advice before you leave.

Public Holidays New Year’s Day (Jour de l’An) 1 January

Easter Sunday (Pâques) late March/April

Easter Monday (Lundi de Pâques) late March/April

May Day (Fête du Travail) 1 May

Victory in Europe Day (Victoire 1945) 8 May

Ascension Thursday (L’Ascension) May

Whit Sunday/Whit Mon-day (Pentecôte/Lundi de Pentecôte) May/June

Bastille Day (Fête Nation-ale) 14 July

Assumption Day (L’Assomption) 15 August

All Saints’ Day (La Tous-saint) 1 November

Armistice Day (Le Onze Novembre) 11 November

Christmas Day (Noël) 25 December

Safe Travel Pickpockets prey on

busy places; always stay alert to the possibility of someone surreptitiously reaching for your pockets or bags.

In an increasingly common ruse, scammers pretend to ‘ nd’ a gold ring (by subtly dropping it on the ground) then o er it to you as a diversionary tactic for pickpocket-

ing, or an opening to get money.

Paris has a high incidence of beggars; if someone approaches you and you’re not willing/able to give money, sim-ply say ‘désolé’ (‘sorry’).

The metro is safe to use until it closes, including for women travelling alone, but stations best avoided late at night include the long passage-ways of Châtelet–Les Halles and Montparnasse Bienvenüe, as well as Château Rouge, Gare du Nord, Strasbourg St-Denis, Réaumur–Sé-bastopol and Stalingrad. Bornes d’alarme (alarm

or Tuesday; many also close for lunch (around 12.30pm to 2.30pm) and some close on Saturday afternoons.

Large shops Often open to around 10pm once a week, usually Thursday.

Banks Open from 9am to 4pm (some close for lunch), Monday to Friday.

Restaurants Generally serve lunch from noon to 2.30pm or 3pm and din-ner from 7pm or 7.30pm until at least 9.30pm; many serve late into the night.

Museums The major-ity are closed one day a week; some open late one night a week.

Discount Cards�y Top Tip Conces-sions (usually 30% to 50%) abound for youth, students and seniors on everything from trans-port to museums. Bring whatever concession ID you have from home and ash it every time you pull

out your wallet. Prices in this book are adult/con-cession. If you plan to visit a lot of museums, your best bet is a Paris Museum Pass (www.parismuse-umpass.fr; 2/4/6 days €35/50/65), which gives you entry to more than 60 museums and monu-ments, and allows you to skip the queues and head straight in. Pick it up from tourist o ces, par-ticipating museums and monuments or branches of Fnac. (Preordering

online will incur postage costs.) European citizens under 26 get free entry to national museums and monuments, so don’t buy a museum pass if you qualify. The Paris Visite (p 190 ) pass o ers some dis-counts. See p ### for in-formation about reduced rates for kids.

Electricity

230V/50Hz

Emergency Ambulance (%15)

Fire Brigade (%18)

Police (%17)

Money France uses the euro (€). For updated currency

Money-saving Tips Many museums are free on at least the rst

Sunday of the month – see p ### .

Consider investing in a transport (p 190 ) or museum (p 190 ) pass.

Stock up on fresh food at the markets and food shops and head to a park for a picnic.

See p ### to save on theatre tickets.

Short-stay apartments (p 184 ) can work out to be considerably cheaper than a hotel room.

Head to one of the city’s 400 free wi- points (some time-limited) at popular locations includ-ing parks, libraries, local town halls and tourist hotspots. Locations are mapped at www.paris.fr (in French).

Tickets & Passes Paris Visite (www.parisvisite.com) gives users unlimited travel, as well as discounted entry to certain museums, and other discounts/bonuses. Passes are valid for either three, five or eight zones. The zone 1-3 pass costs €9.30/15.20/20.70/29.90 for one/two/three/five days. Passes are sold online, at larger metro and RER stations, Paris’ SNCF offices and air-ports. They’re valid on the metro, RER, SNCF’s suburban lines, buses, night buses, trams and Montmartre’s funicular railway – though if you’re not using public transport frequently each day, a regular carnet (book) of transport tickets may work out cheaper.

Essential Information 205204 Survival Guide

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ELouvre CentrePompidou

Jardin duLuxembourg

EiffelTower

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SacréCœur

NotreDame

Arc deTriomphe

Musée d’Orsay & St-Germain des Prés (p000)With a literary pedigree, cafe terraces and exquisite boutiques, this gentrified neighbour-hood retains a soulful, cinematic quality.

Top SightsEMusée d’OrsayJardin du Luxembourg

Arc de Triomphe & Champs-Élysées (p000)This neighbourhood sees glamorous avenues flanked by flagship fashion houses, excellent museums and elegant restaurants.

Top SightsEArc de Triomphe

Notre Dame & the Islands (p000)Paris’ gothic cathedral dominates the Île de la Cité; romantic little Île St-Louis has charming shops and sublime ice cream.

Top SightsENotre Dame

Latin Quarter (p000)The lively Latin Quarter is home to vast gardens, intriguing museums, a mighty mausoleum and spirited Sorbonne university students.

Top SightsEMusée National du Moyen Âge

Eiffel Tower & Les Invalides (p000)Zipping up the spire is reason enough to visit, but this stately neighbourhood also has some unmissable museums.

E Top SightsEiffel TowerMusée Rodin

Centre Pompidou & the Marais (p000)Hip boutiques, ubercool bars, avant-garde galleries and beautiful museums all wedge within the Marais’ warren of laneways.

Top SightsECentre Pompidou

Sacré-Cœur & Montmartre (p000)Beneath Montmartre’s basilica, painters at easels, cosy bistros and historic cabarets keep the artistic spirit of this hilly area alive.

Top SightsESacré-Cœur

Louvre, Tuileries & Opéra (p000)Palatial museums, World Heritage–listed gardens, grand department stores and gourmet food shops are just some of the draws of this area.

Top SightsELouvre

Worth a TripTop SightsE

Père LachaiseVersailles

Neighbourhoods Paris

Neighbourhoods 1918

For more information, see Survival Guide (p ### ).

Currency Euro (€)

Language French

Visas No restrictions for EU citizens. Generally not required for most other nationalities

for stays of up to 90 days.

Money ATMs widely available. Visa and

MasterCard accepted in most hotels, shops and restaurants; fewer establishments

accept American Express.

Mobile Phones Check with your provider before you

leave about roaming and French SIM card options.

Plugs & Adaptors Plugs in France have two round pins. Voltage is 220V AC, 50Hz. Appliances rated US 110V

need a transformer to work safely.

Time Central European Time (GMT/UTC plus one

hour)

Tipping Already included in prices under French

law, though if service is particularly good, you might tip an extra ve to 10 percent in

restaurants. Round taxi fares up to the nearest euro.

Getting Around Walking is a pleasure in Paris, but it also has one of the most efficient and inexpensive public transport systems in the world, mak-ing getting around the city a breeze.

m Metro & RER Paris’ underground rail network has two separate but linked systems: the metro, with 16 lines and some 300 stations, spaced around 500m apart; and the RER (Réseau Express Régional), a network of five subur-ban services (designated A to E) that pass through the city centre and are good for quick cross-city journeys. Each metro line is marked by a number, colour and final destination. You’ll save money by purchasing a carnet (book) of 10 tickets.

J Bus The extensive bus network is a slower but scenic alternative to the metro and easier for those with limited mobility.

H Cycling The Vélib’ pick-up, drop-off bike system has revolutionised travel in Paris, with over 20,000 bikes and 1800 bike stations around 300m apart throughout the city. Subscrip-tions are super-cheap and the first 30 minutes of use are free.

N Boat The city’s most beautiful ‘boulevard’, the Seine, runs right through the centre of the city. Boat cruises are plentiful; the hop-on, hop-off Batobus has eight stops serving some of Paris’ top sights.

K Taxi You’ll find ranks around major intersections or you can hail taxis in the street.

Arriving in Paris Paris’ two main airports are its largest, Charles de Gaulle, and the smaller, Orly; the quickest and easiest transport options are listed below. Some budget carriers includ-ing Ryanair use Beauvais airport, linked by shuttle bus (see p ### ). Gare du Nord train station is also a major entry point for UK travellers (see p ### )

A From Charles de Gaulle Airport

Destination Best Transport

Champs-Élysées, Arc de Triomphe

Air France bus 2

St-Germain des Prés (Gare Montparnasse)

Air France bus 4

Bastille (Gare de Lyon)

Air France bus 4

Châtelet–Les Halles, Notre Dame

RER train B

St-Germain des Prés, Latin Quarter (Denfert Rochereau)

RER train B

Opéra Roissybus

A From Orly Airport

Destination Best Transport

Les Invalides Air France bus 1

Champs-Élysées, Arc de Triomphe

Air France bus 1

St-Germain des Prés (Gare Montparnasse)

Air France bus 1

St-Germain des Prés, Latin Quarter (Denfert Rochereau)

Orlybus

Châtelet–Les Halles, Notre Dame

Orlyval, then RER train B

Latin Quarter Orlyval, then RER train B

Your Daily Budget Budget less than €80

Dorm beds €25–€35

Self-catering supermarkets and markets

Inexpensive public transport, stand-by theatre tickets

Midrange €80–€180 Double room €80–€180

Two-course dinner with glass of wine €20–€40

Affordable museums

Top End over €180 Historic luxury hotels

Gastronomic restaurants

Designer boutiques

Useful Websites Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/paris) Destination information, bookings, traveller forum and more.

Paris Info (www.parisinfo.com) Comprehen-sive tourist-authority website.

Secrets of Paris (www.secretsofparis.com) Loads of resources and reviews.

Advance Planning Two months before Organise opera, ballet or cabaret tickets and make reservations for high-end/popular restaurants.

Two weeks before Sign up for a free, local-led tour, book a sightseeing balloon ‘flight’ and start narrowing down your choice of museums.

Two days before Pack your most comfort-able shoes!

Before You Go Need to Know

Need to Know 1716

y Top Tips To save you some

of the climb up to the basilica, a funicular (h6am-midnight) railway shuttles up and down a 36m-long hillside track, o ering some stunning views of its own during the 90-second ride. Metro tickets and travel passes are valid on the funicular; there are also ticket booths at the funicular’s upper and lower stations.

Photography and lm-ing are forbidden inside the basilica; for etiquette tips see p 192 .

Keep one eye on the mesmerising views and the other on your belongings, as the base of the basilica attracts pickpockets and touts.

5 Take a Break The area has more than its fair share of tourist traps, but for great-value French dishes in atmospheric surrounds head to neighbourhood bistro Chez Marie (p 79 ).

Don’t Miss The History Designed by architect Paul Abadie and begun in 1873 as a means for France to atone for the Franco-Prussian War (1870–71), the Roman-Byzantine basilica was funded largely by private, often small, donations. It was completed in 1914 but wasn’t consecrated until after WWI in 1919.

The Blessed Sacrament In a sense, atonement here has never stopped: a prayer ‘cycle’ that began in 1835 (before the basilica’s consecration) continues around the clock, with perpetual adoration of the Blessed Sacrament that’s on display above the high altar.

The Dome The sublime views from Sacré-Cœur get even better when you climb the 234 steps spiralling inside its 83m-high main dome (admission €5, cash only; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar). From here, you can see up to 30km on a clear day.

The Crypt Admission to the dome also includes entry to Sacré-Cœur’s huge, chapel-lined crypt.

France’s Largest Bell ‘La Savoyarde’ in the basilica’s huge square bell tower is the largest in France. Donated by the four dioceses of the Savoy in 1895, it can be heard ring-ing out across the neighbourhood and beyond.

The Christ in Majesty Mosaic The magni cent apse mosaic Christ in Maj-esty, designed by Luc-Olivier Merson in 1922, is one of the largest of its kind in the world. Its golden hues lighten Sacré-Cœur’s otherwise dark interior.

Visible from across the city, the striking white domes of the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur (Sacred Heart Basilica) crown the 130m-high Butte de Montmartre (Montmartre Hill). The basilica’s travertine stone exudes calcite, ensuring that it remains white despite weathering and pollu-tion, while its lofty vantage point o ers dizzying Parisian vistas from its steep surrounding streets, steps, and above all, its main dome.

o Map p 76 , D4

www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com

Parvis du Sacré-Cœur, 18e

admission free

h6am-10.30pm, dome 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar

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Sacré-CœurTop Sights

73Sacré-CœurSacré-Cœur & Montmartre72

14e, with the airport. Buses take 30 minutes; they run every 15 to 20 minutes from 6am to 11.50pm from the airport and from 5.35am to 11.05pm to the airport.

The tari for a taxi to the city is €40 to €50 (depending on time of day). The journey takes upwards of 30 minutes.

See p 186 for door-to-door ser vices.

Beauvais Aéroport Paris Beauvais Tillé (%03 44 11 46 86, general enquiries 08 92 68 20 64; www.aeroportbeauvais.com), served by budget carriers including Ryanair, is 80km north of Paris.

Express bus services leave the airport about 20 to 30 minutes after each ight’s arrival from 5.45am to 7.15pm and drop passengers on Paris’ place de la Porte Maillot. Buses leave Paris for the airport three hours and 15 minutes before ight departures at Parking Pershing (1 bd Pershing, 17e; €15 one way; mPorte Maillot) from 5.15am to 7.55pm. Tickets for the 75-minute trip can be purchased at the sales point just outside the terminal and from a kiosk in the car

park or at the bus station at Parking Pershing at Porte Maillot.

Between the city and Beauvais, a taxi costs from €140 (day) and €180 (night and all day Sunday).

Gare du Nord The highly civilised

Eurostar (%08 92 35 35 39, UK 08 432 186 186; www.eurostar.com) whisks you between Paris’ Gare du Nord and London’s St-Pancras Station in around two hours, 20 minutes. Through-ticketing is available to/from many regional UK stations.

Thalys (%36 35, 08 92 35 35 36; www.thalys.com) links Paris’ Gare du Nord to Brussels-Midi, Amster-dam CS and Cologne’s Hauptbahnhof.

Other Mainline Train Stations Paris has ve other sta-tions for long-distance trains, each with its own metro station: Gare d’Austerlitz, Gare de l’Est, Gare de Lyon, Gare Montparnasse and Gare St-Lazare; the station used depends on the direction from Paris. Contact SNCF (Societé

Nationale des Chemins de Fer; %36 35, 08 92 35 35 35; www.voyages.sncf.com) for connections throughout France and continental Europe.

Gare Routière Internationale de Paris-Galliéni The Gare Routière Internationale de Paris-Galliéni (%08 92 89 90 91; 28 av du Général de Gaulle; mGallieni), the city’s in-ternational bus terminal, is in the inner suburb of Bagnolet. Eurolines (%01 41 86 24 21; www.eurolines.com; 55 rue St-Jacques, 5e; mCluny-La Sorbonne) has services throughout Europe.

Getting Around Bicycle y Best for sightseeing, exercise. Upwards of 370km of permanent pistes cycla-bles (cycling lanes) now criss-cross the city. And, under the scheme Paris Respire (‘Paris Breathes’), cars are banned on Sun-days and public holidays

A La Carte Paris Apart-ments (www.alacarte-paris-apartments.com) Designer apartments.

Paris Accommodation Service (www.paris-accommodation-service.com) Numerous apartments to choose from.

Feel Paris (www.feelparis.com) Good for discounted last-minute specials.

Arriving in Paris y Top Tip For the best way to get to your accom-modation, see p ### .

Charles de Gaulle Paris’ largest interna-tional airport, Aéroport Roissy Charles de Gaulle (%01 70 36 39 50; www.adp.fr), is 30km northeast of the city centre in the suburb of Roissy. Its ter-minals are linked by free navettes (shuttle buses) and free CDGVAL shuttle trains – check www.easycdg.com for info.

Both terminals are served by RoissyRail (€9.10 one way) on RER line

B3 (follow the signs ‘Paris by Train’). Trains leave every 15 minutes from 5.30am to midnight and take 40 minutes to reach the centre of Paris.

Air France bus (%08 92 35 08 20; http://videocdn.airfrance.com/cars-airfrance; one-way tickets from €15) runs services to several locations in central Paris. Services generally run half-hourly or more fre-quentlyfrom around 5am to about 11pm – check the website for lines’ indi-vidual hours of operation.

Noctilien night bus (%32 46; www.noctilien.fr; adult €7.60; h12.30am-5.30pm) Bus 140 to/from Gare de l’Est links with Charles de Gaulle hourly.

Roissybus (%32 46; www.ratp.fr; one-way €10) Links the airport with rue Scribe, place de l’Opéra. Buses take 45 minutes and run from 5.45am to 11pm.

Prebook private door-to-door shuttles such as Paris Airports Service (%01 55 98 10 80; www.parisairportservice.com; from €26/42 day/night per person to/from Charles de Gaulle or Orly). Allow time for numerous pick-ups and drop-o s.

The tari for a taxi to the city is around €50 to €65. The journey takes 30 to 50 minutes, depending on tra c.

Orly Situated 18km south of Paris’ city centre, Aéro-port d’Orly (%01 49 75 15 15; www.adp.fr) has two terminals – Ouest (West; mainly domestic ights) and Sud (South; mainly international ights), which are linked by the free Orlyval shuttle train.

The Orlyval shuttle train (%08 92 68 77 14; www.orlyval.com; €10.75 one way) links Aéroport d’Orly with RER line B at Antony (eight minutes) with frequent services from 6am to 11pm. From Antony it’s a 35-minute trip to central Paris.

Air France Bus (%08 92 35 08 20; http://videocdn.airfrance.com/cars-airfrance; €11.50 one way) runs from the airport to several central Paris locations. Buses takes 30 to 45 minutes; they run every 30 minutes from 6.15am to 11.50pm from the airport and from 6am to 11.30pm to the airport.

Orlybus (%08 92 68 77 14; €6.90 one way) links place Denfert Rochereau,

Getting Around 201200 Survival Guide

Paris’ Best…The best experiences

Best WalksSee the city on foot

The Best of ParisThe city’s highlightsin handy lists to help you plan

Explore ParisThe best things to see and do, neighbourhood by neighbourhood

-contents.indd 2 2/02/2012 2:07:29 PM

Our selection of the city’s best places to eat, drink and experience:

1 Sights

5 Eating

6 Drinking

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

Lonely Planet’s ParisLonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you straight to the heart of the city.

Inside you’ll find all the must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one really memorable. We’ve split the city into easy-to-navigate neighbourhoods and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our expert authors have searched out the best of the city: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, to name a few. Because you want to explore, our ‘Local Life’ pages will take you to some of the most exciting areas to experience the real Paris.

And of course you’ll find all the practical tips you need for a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the end of a long day’s exploration.

It’s your guarantee of a really great experience.

Our PromiseYou can trust our travel infor-mation because Lonely Planet authors visit the places we write about, each and every edition. We never accept freebies for positive coverage, so you can rely on us to tell it like it is.

Find each listing quickly on maps for each neighbourhood:

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These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:

� Telephone Numbers � Opening Hours� � Parking�� Nonsmoking�� Internet Access�� Wi-Fi Access� � Vegetarian Selection�� English-Language Menu

�� Family-Friendly� � Pet-Friendly� � Bus�� Ferry�� Metro�� Subway�� Tram�� Train

-contents.indd 3 2/02/2012 2:07:36 PM

Explore Paris 21

Worth a Trip:Canal St-Martin & Around ....................84Southeastern Paris ................................86Père Lachaise .......................................160Versailles ............................................... 162

Arc de Triomphe & Champs-Élysées

Eiffel Tower & Les Invalides

Louvre, Tuileries & Opéra

Sacré-Cœur & Montmartre

Centre Pompidou & the Marais

Notre Dame & the Islands

Latin Quarter

Musée d’Orsay& St-Germain des Prés

34

22

46

70

88

110

126

140

QuickStart Guide 7Top Sights ..............................8Local Life .............................. 12Day Planner .........................14Need to Know ...................... 16Neighbourhoods ................. 18

-contents.indd 4 2/02/2012 2:08:00 PM

Survival Guide 199Before You Go ...................200Arriving in Paris ................ 202

Getting Around ................. 203

Essential Information ...... 205

Language ...........................210

The Best of Paris 167Paris’ Best WalksLeft Bank Literary Loop....................... 168Seine-Side Romantic Meander .......... 170Right BankTime Passages ......................................172

Paris’ Best…Architecture ...........................................174Cooking & Wine-Tasting Courses ..................................................176Markets ..................................................177Museums ...............................................178History ...................................................180Eating .................................................... 182Drinking .................................................184Literary Paris ........................................ 185Nights Out ............................................. 186Gay & Lesbian Paris ............................. 188Parks & Gardens .................................. 189Fashion ..................................................190Churches ............................................... 192Multicultural Paris ................................ 193Panoramas ...........................................194For Free ................................................. 195Tours ...................................................... 196Gourmet Shops .....................................197For Kids ................................................. 198

-contents.indd 5 2/02/2012 2:08:03 PM

-qstart-contents-pk-par3.indd 6 2/02/2012 2:08:54 PM

QuickStart Guide

Welcome toParis

Composer Cole Porter was spot on: whether you’re here in the springtime, the autumn, the winter (when it drizzles) or the summer (when it sizzles!), the world’s most romanti-cised city – with its tree-shaded boulevards, iconic monu-ments, lamplit bridges, wicker chair–lined cafe terraces, chic fashion sense and exquisite cuisine – has a way of seducing you every moment of the year.

Top Sights .................................................................. 8

Local Life ...................................................................12

Day Planner ..............................................................14

Need to Know .......................................................... 16

Neighbourhoods ..................................................... 18

Eiffel Tower (p 24 ) and the SeineIZZET KERIBAR/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

7

-qstart-contents-pk-par3.indd 7 2/02/2012 2:08:59 PM

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – May 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 691 9© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Our Writer

CATHERINE LE NEVEZCatherine first lived in Paris aged four and she's been re-turning here at every opportunity since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgraduate qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. In between revisiting her favourite Parisian haunts and uncovering new ones, she wrote this book in a tiny (but charming) garret in the city's heart. Catherine's writing on the city includes numerous Lonely Planet guides, as well as newspaper and radio reportage covering Paris' literary scene – in addition to authoring, co-authoring and contributing to dozens of Lonely Planet guide-books covering all corners of France, Europe and beyond. Wanderlust aside, Paris remains her favourite city on earth.

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