P a i n t i n g A r m o u r e d V e h i c l e sP a r t O n e - p a i n t i n g w i t h t h e t r a c k s f i t t e db y S t e v e P a l f f y 

Tamiya's 1/48 scale M4 ShermanPartially painted, prior to detailing and weathering

Following my recent reviews of Tamiya 1/48 scale armour kits, I received a few questions about why I did not paint the models. The answer is simple - in most cases I completely build my armour and vehicle models before I start painting. 

 I find that this is not especially difficult if the vehicle will be somewhat (even slightly) weathered, in particular with dusty or muddy running gear that will help disguise the demarcation between tyres, wheels and tracks.The technique described here is just one of many possible approaches, but it is the one that I tend to use most frequently.  I followed these steps when painting my recently built Tamiya 1/48 scale Sherman:

The entire vehicle was sprayed with Tamiya Flat Earth XF-52, mixed with approximately 30% thinner and sprayed at around 30-40 psi.

The palest camouflage colour was applied next, over the entire upper hull and turret, once again with 30% thinner and sprayed at around 30-40 psi. In the case of this Sherman, I used Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown.

Next, I sprayed the edge of the camouflage pattern in the darker colour - Tamiya Olive XF-58 - this time thinned around 50% at around 20 psi. When spraying the edges of the camouflage pattern it is important to angle the direction of the spray toward the centre of the camouflage colour.

The centre of the wheels, the bogies and the lower hull were also sprayed with this mix, feathered in unevenly and with a slightly mottled effect. The camouflage colour does not have to completely cover the base coat of Flat Earth.

Next, a watery blend of Tamiya Desert Yellow XF-59, mixed with around 70-90% thinner, should be thinly and subtly sprayed in the centre of panels. This colour is good for the browns and greens on this vehicle, but different colour schemes may require a different colour for fading.

Now the same mix is used to apply fine streaks from top to bottom, moving the airbrush fast and close to the surface.

At this stage, Tamiya Buff XF-57 is mixed with around 70% thinners and sprayed on the tracks and to "dust up" the bogies and wheels, flicking a little of this light mix on to the bottom of the hull. 

 Next Installment...In the next instalment we will discuss brush painting details, followed by applying washes and final weathering.   

Tamiya's 1/48 scale Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. BPartially painted, prior to final weathering

  Following my recent reviews of Tamiya 1/48 scale armour kits, I received a few questions about why I did not paint the models. The answer is simple - in most cases I completely build my armour and vehicle models before I start painting.In the first instalment I talked about the basic paint job., followed by a description of picking out details. This time I will describe my techniques for applying a "whitewash" to vehicles with temporary winter camouflage.. 

 The techniques described here is just some of many possible approaches, but it is the one that I tend to use most frequently.  Paints and BrushesI used Tamiya Acrylics for the main vehicle and Vallejo Acrylics for detail parts and selected weathering techniques (dry-brushing and chips/scratches). The Tamiya Modelling Brush 87048 HF was used for detail painting, and Tamiya Brush 87046 for dry-brushing.

 Temporary Winter Finish TechniqueThe initial steps are similar to those described when painting my Tamiya 1/48 scale M4 Sherman:

Airbrush Tamiya XF 52 Flat Earth, mixed with 30-40% thinner, over lower hull, wheels and tracks. I spray at around 30-40 psi.

Airbrush upper hull with Tamiya XF 63 German Grey, feathering the darker colour down onto the lower hull sidewalls. Spray the wheels starting in the centre, and feathering out to just inside the rim of the tyre. Once again, the paint should be mixed with around 30-40% thinner and shot at 30-40 psi.

Mix Tamiya XF 2 Flat White with about 60% thinner and set your compressor to the lower pressure of around 20 psi. Spray the white colour in a mottled, cloudy pattern over the upper hull. Remember, you want the grey base coat to slightly show through. Depending on the vehicle, you might apply an almost solid coat of white, right down to a very worn and patchy finish

Slightly streak random white lines top to bottom in a few places. This will give a worn look to the vehicle.

I usually do not apply white to the wheels or the lower hull as the temporary finish tended to quickly wear off vehicles in service, or become obscured by dust and mud.

For this vehicle I wanted the markings to remain visible after the white finish was applied (some vehicles were entirely covered with whitewash, overpainting even the national markings), so I sprayed Tamiya XF 63 German Grey in the rough shape and general position of the markings. Once again, the paint

was mixed with 60% thinners. The edges of the vehicle - and there are a lot of edges on a Sturmgeschutz III - were dry brushed with

Vallejo Grey Black and a large number of chips and scratches were applied with the same colour. Painting of the details was then undertaken in the same way as described in the previous installment.

 

 Next Installment...In the next installment we will discuss the wash, decals and final weathering. 

 

 

Tamiya's 1/48 scale M4 Sherman

Following my recent reviews of Tamiya 1/48 scale armour kits, I received a few questions about why I did not paint the models. The answer is simple - in most cases I completely build my armour and vehicle models before I start painting.In the first installment I talked about the basic paint job., followed by a description of picking out details. and then techniques for applying a "whitewash" to vehicles with temporary winter camouflage. This time we will finish Tamiya's Sherman with some more weathering, decals and a sealing coat. 

 The techniques described here is just some of many possible approaches, but it is the one that I tend to use most frequently.   Paints and BrushesI used Tamiya Acrylics for the main vehicle and Vallejo Acrylics for detail parts and selected weathering techniques (dry-brushing and chips/scratches). The Tamiya Modelling Brush 87048 HF was used for detail painting, and Tamiya Brush 87046 for dry-brushing.

 Weathering and Decal Technique

Remove the turret and hatches and machine gun. Mix up a wash using odorless solvent and Burnt Umber tube oil paint. The wash should be thin

enough to be translucent. Place the vehicle on one side and, using a No.1 brush, apply the wash to the running gear, wheels and

tracks. Mop up any leakage with a clean brush. When thoroughly dry (probably overnight), repeat on the other side. Sit vehicle upright on tracks and apply the same wash to the hull, turret and other parts. When dry, wipe the leading edges and raised detail with a damp fingertip. This will completely

remove any residue of the wash from these areas, leaving a contrast between the exposed "lighter" areas compared to the darker recesses.

Mix a thicker wash using Sienna oil paint and pin-point this onto track guide teeth and end

connectors. The same mix should be used to streak wooden tool handles, representing woodgrain.  

 Next, spray a gloss coat and apply decals. I use Micro Set followed by Micro Set once the decals have

dried. Let the decals dry another 5-10 minutes and, using a Q-Tip that is slightly damp, flatten out any air bubbles and other imperfections.

10. Apply a further gloss coat angled in toward the edges of the decals. This will help blend in the edges of the decals. I use Polly Scale Gloss mixed with 20% water.

11. After letting the gloss coat dry for 15 minutes, lightly spray (dust) the model with Flat (I use Polly Scale Flat mixed with 50% water at around 40psi).

12. Mix Tamiya Buff and 50% thinner, then lightly spray (no more than a light dusting) the lower hull, flicking up slightly onto the decals and dust all the running gear and tracks. This should be thin enough to show colour. This technique may need some practice first.

13. Slightly dry-brush the edges of the road wheels with Vallejo Black Grey.  

 14. Add a drop of gloss on the headlamps 15. The antenna is made from stretched sprue.

And that is it!Please note that "Hurricane" should actually have a one-piece transmission housing and standard rubber block tracks.

 Next Installment...In the next installment we will describe the finishing touches on Tamiya's 1/48 scale Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. B   

   

Tamiya's 1/48 scale Sturmgeschutz Ausf. B

Following my recent reviews of Tamiya 1/48 scale armour kits, I received a few questions about why I did not paint the models. The answer is simple - in most cases I completely build my armour and vehicle models before I start painting.In the first installment I talked about the basic paint job., followed by a description of picking out details. and then techniques for applying a "whitewash" to vehicles with temporary winter camouflage, and final weathering and decals. This time we will complete Tamiya's whitewashed Sturmgeschutz III with some more weathering, decals and a sealing coat. 

 The techniques described here is just some of many possible approaches, but it is the one that I tend to use most frequently.  Paints and BrushesI used Tamiya Acrylics for the main vehicle and Vallejo Acrylics for detail parts and selected weathering techniques (dry-brushing and chips/scratches). The Tamiya Modelling Brush 87048 HF was used for detail painting, and Tamiya Brush 87046 for dry-brushing.

 Weathering and Decals for Winter Camouflage

Mix up a wash using odorless solvent and Burnt Umber tube oil paint. The wash should be thin enough to be translucent.

Place the vehicle on one side and, using a No.1 brush, apply the wash to the lower hull side, running gear, wheels and tracks.

Mop up any leakage with a clean brush. When thoroughly dry (probably overnight), repeat on the other side. For the upper hull and superstructire, use a very light wash of black, pin pointed on the hatches and

hunges. Some thin Burnt Umber can also be applied sparingly to appropriate areas such as weld beads and places where dirt and grime might accumulate.

Mix a thicker wash using Sienna oil paint and streak wooden tool handles, representing wood grain. When all the washes have dried, wipe the edges with a damp fingertip to lend more contrast to these

areas.  

 Next, spray a gloss coat and apply decals. I use Micro Set followed by Micro Set once the decals have

dried. Let the decals dry another 5-10 minutes and, using a Q-Tip that is slightly damp, flatten out any air bubbles and other imperfections.

Apply a further gloss coat angled in toward the edges of the decals. This will help blend in the edges of the decals. I use Polly Scale Gloss mixed with 20% water.

10. After letting the gloss coat dry for 15 minutes, lightly spray (dust) the model with Flat (I use Polly Scale Flat mixed with 50% water at around 40psi).

11. I flicked some Buff onto the rear fenders using a toothbrush, then applied a very fine misting of the same colour to the lower hul, tracks and wheels.

12. Slightly dry-brush the edges of the road wheels with Vallejo Black Grey.

Please note that I chose to apply the winter camouflage to this vehicle, but for all I know this vehicle may not have survived to winter! Check your references.Several photos here show the 1/48 scale Tamiya StuG III Ausf B compared in size to Dragon's 1/35 scale StuG III Ausf F (an old model by Brett Green used to illustrate size only!)