PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Goa & Mumbai ............. 2Map .................................. 410 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 12If You Like ........................ 14Month by Month ............. 16Itineraries ........................ 20Beach Planner ................ 24Yoga & Activities ............. 27Travel with Children ....... 32Regions at a Glance ....... 34

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND GOA & MUMBAI

Goa Today ....................... 188History ............................. 190The Way of Life ............... 197Arts & Architecture ........ 203Food, Glorious Food ....... 206Markets & Shopping ...... 212Wildlife & the Environment ......... 215

Goa Today Paradise Found A solitary Portuguese outpost in India for almost 500 years, the in u-ence of colonial rule in Goa can still be seen everywhere: in the exqui-site, crumbling architecture; in the East-meets-West cuisine; and in thesiesta-saturated joie de vivre that Goans themselves call susegad.

Little wonder, with all these charms, that just about everybody wants – or wanted at some point in history – to come here. The state has had

er fair share of would-be conquerors, from the Mauryans and theMarathas, to the British, Dutch and Portuguese. Today pinkish packagetourists throng the northern beaches; upwardly mobile internationalsounge esi e in nity pools; well-heeled Russians party the evenings

away; an young Israelis soak away the stresses of military serviceBut international travellers aren’t the only non-Goans who arrive in

GOAUSA INDIA

population per sq km

≈ 30 people

1835 Goa’s senate moves

from Old Goa to a healthier capital

at Panjim (today’s Panaji). Goa’s viceroy, Dom Manuel de Portu-gal e Castro, levels the

1843 Panjim becomes Goa’s

new capital, and Old Goa is left almost

uninhabited. British adventurer Richard

Burton soon describes Old Goa as a place of

Portitself a

dictatde Ol

tarefusing

co

gacross the border in British India. But es ite wi es rea tions, on 10 June 1947 the Portuguese Minister of Co onies, C lo Duarte, warned that the ‘Portuguese ag will not fall do

without some thousands of Portuguese, white an co ouretheir blood in its defence’.

The March to Independence When overtures by the newly independent Indian governmade to the Portuguese in 1953, it became clear that the Portno intention of withdrawing. On 11 June 1953 diplomatic rtween the two countries were broken o .

Within Goa, protests continued, often met with violentfrom Portuguese forces. Meanwhile India manoeuvred for al support. Finally, however, Indian Prime Minister Jawahfound himself pushed to the brink when, in November 1961,troops stationed 10km south of Goa opened re on Indian On the night of 17 December 1961 Operation Vijay nally troops crossing the border. They were met with little resistaevening of the following day the troops reached Panaji.

At 8.30am on 19 December, troops of the Punjab Regimethe Panaji Secretariat Building and unfurled the Indian a

Portugal’s dicta-tor Dr Antonio de Oliveira Salazar

attempted to lobby world

leaders into con-demning India’s claims over Goa: he even managed to persuade John

F Kennedy to write to Nehru,

advising him against the use of force on the

issue.

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Marvellous Mumbai More than just a gateway to Goa, Mumbai is a place that takes eating, drinking and mak-ing merry seriously. Luxuriate at a grand hotel, explore glorious Gothic architecture, munch on street eats galore and party hard in this sizzling-hot city beside the sea.

Beach Bounty Goa’s greatest drawcard is without doubt its legendary beaches. Strung in a shim-mering gold strand from the tip to the toe of the state, they cater to every possible tropical whim: choose from happy, hippy Arambol or bolder, brasher Baga; from the lively sands of Palolem, or lovely, laid-back Mandrem; from the expansive groomed

sands of fancy ve-stars, or hidden cres-cent coves, where the only footprints will be sea eagles’ and your own.

Spiritual Sanctuary For those keener to top up their Zen than their tan, Goa’s crop of spiritual activities grows more bountiful each year: silent vi-passana retreats, sunrise t’ai chi sessions, reiki healing courses and just about every other form of spiritual exploration are read-ily available statewide. By far the most pop-ular of myriad regimes on o er is ayurveda, the ancient science of plant-based medi-cine; second only to ayurveda comes yoga, whose dozen-or-more varieties make it easy to nd the pose and poise that suit you best.

Colourful and colliding, spiritual and soothing, crammed with deserted beaches, yogic bliss and heady nightlife. Goa is many things to many people, but everyone agrees: there’s nowhere on earth quite like it.

Welcome to Goa & Mumbai

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

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187GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

Anjuna & North Goa Entertainment Luxury Beaches

Entertainment North Goa is where it’s at in terms of after-hours enter-tainment. Calangute, Baga, Anjuna and Candolim o er live-music joints, bars rang-ing from spit-and-sawdust to mixology central, and even the occasional nightclub.

Luxury With a bumper crop of boutique hotels, North Goa o ers the state’s best luxury stays. Bed down in a con-verted fortress, a chic village bungalow, or minimalist beachside haven; many also o er spa services for ad-ditional pampering after a hard day’s lounging.

Beaches From the bustling beaches of Baga to the empty stretches at Mandrem, there’s a beach to t every inclination in North Goa. Arambol, Vagator and An-juna’s beaches are popular with backpackers; Calan-gute and Sinquerim are the places to head for water sports.

p 70

Panaji & Central Goa History Wildlife Temples

History Picturesque Portuguese-era bungalows abound in the historic villages of Central Goa, and in the slow-paced state capital, Panaji. Not far away, Old Goa’s glorious cathedrals once earned it the moniker ‘Rome of the East’.

Wildlife Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, on lovely Chorao Island, makes for a leisurely spot of birdwatching beside the river. Further a eld are Bondla and Bhagwan Ma-havir Wildlife Sanctuaries, while Backwoods Camp is an ornithologist’s dream.

Temples Temples abound around Pon-da, where the Shri Manguesh and Shri Laxmi Narasimha temples are especially worth a visit. Further east, Tambdi Surla is home to the inter-esting little 12th-century temple, which has survived centuries of conquerors and temple demolitions.

p 110

Palolem & South Goa Beaches Yoga Exploration

Beaches Excellent strips of quiet beach can be found throughout South Goa; Palolem’s glorious crescent serves a lively traveller com-munity, while a little further north, ve-star hotels back onto beautiful undeveloped tracts of white, palm-fringed sands.

Yoga Yoga, ayurveda and massage aplenty are on o er in Pal-olem, Patnem and Agonda, along with a whole host of other seasonally-changing spiritual pursuits. Visitors should check local notice boards to nd the yogi, guru or t’ai chi master of their choice.

Exploration Getting o the beaten track is easy in South Goa, where tiny coastal villages invite exploration by scooter, motorbike or rental car. For adventurous souls, the trip out to the Usgalimal rock carvings makes for the ultimate Goan road-less-travelled.

p 150

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Bars & Drinking Unlike residents of other parts of India, many Goans enjoy a tipple or two upon occasion. A little local bar provides the perfect ice-breaker to strike up conver-sation with locals, while a cold sunset beer is almost obligatory along the state’s sandy shores. Mumbai Hip, minimalist clubs, grungy backstreet bars, cool jazz joints, ’80s music- lled dives: you’ll nd them all in abundance in this hard-partying city (p 60 )

Local bars, Panaji No frills here, but decent drinks in down-to-earth surroundings make Panaji’s teeny bars a great choice for whiling away an hour or two (p 121 )

Anjuna Take the edge o a hot market afternoon with a cold drink at Anjuna Market, while listening to an expat crooner murder yet another Hotel California (p 87 )

Cafe Chocolatti, Candolim Sip a ginger-lime zz or an old-fashioned English cuppa alongside a slice of chocolate cake in Chocolatti’s shady, owery garden (p 105 )

Architecture Goa’s heritage is probably most visible in its Portu-guese-style mansions, many slowly crumbling away, others in glorious states of renovation. But there’s oth-er architecture, too, if you look carefully, allowing you to peel away the years and glimpse a much older Goa. Braganza House, Chandor One of few palácios open to the public, the split-personality Braganza House is a fascinating insight into how the aristo-cratic Goan other half once lived (p 159 )

Pala io do Deão, Quepem A la-bour of love for its owners – you can take tea on the terrace of this stunning pala io, marvelling at the wealth of painstakingly renovated detail (p 160 )

Hampi Wander around stunning 15th- and 16th-century temples and palaces, at this World Herit-age Site that time forgot (p 143 )

Goan Forts The Goan coastline is dotted with the atmospheric remnants of a once mighty seafaring nation, all ripe for the exploration (p 175 )

Religious Goa If you’re visiting at Christ-mas, don’t be surprised to see Santas in saris and hear Christmas carols piped in Hindi. It’s all part of the heady religious mix here, where Divali, Easter and even a ‘ re-walking’ god-dess day all put in annual appearances. Basilica of Bom Jesus, Old Goa Visit a saint’s desiccated relics at this splendid basilica, just dripping with silver stars and ecclesiastical glory (p 129 )

Shigmotsav (Shigmo) Goa’s version of the Hindu festival of Holi sees much inging of col-oured tikka powder in ebullient celebration of Spring (p 16 )

Christmas A highlight on the Goan calendar, Christmas involves nativity scenes beneath palm trees, twinkling lights and jiggle-hipped electronic Santas, making for a very merry vibe (p 19 )

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, Panaji Clamber the steps to this wedding cake of a church, where sailors once stopped to thank the heavens for safe their arrival from Portugal (p 113 )

GR

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15

PLAN YO

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A R A B I A NS E A

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One monthThe Best of Goa

With a month to spare, you can truly get to the heart of the state. Start in the nwinding down for a few days in backpacker-central Arambol, and following up some more in quiet Mandrem, with a yoga retreat or some solitude on its saNext head down through the pretty inland village of Siolim, to explore what’s le

the trance scene at Chapora and Vagator, before moving on to hippyish Anjuna to hi ea markets. Press on then to hard-partying and ne-dining in Calangute and Baga

then visit the hulking River Princess tanker at Candolim. Meandering slowly south, stop o to explore the string of villages along the Man

River: drop in on Corjuem Island and Naroa, then hop a ferry to Divar Island, wexploring for its slow, sleepy pace of life and crumbling old homes. Travel on, via Old Gonce the fabled ‘Rome of the East’, to Panaji to eat well and soak up the easy city Once comfortably installed here, take a trip out to the lovely little riverine Dr SalimBird Sanctuary on Chorao Island Striking out still further into the hinterland now’

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -778 -7

9 781741 797787

99915

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Amelia Thomas

p38

Goa

Mumbai(Bombay)

p150Palolem & South Goa

p110Panaji & Central Goa

p70Anjuna & North Goa

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A-Z .................. 220Transport ........................ 232Language ........................ 238Glossary .......................... 243Index ................................ 250Map Legend .................... 255

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

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Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Terekhol

A R A B I A NS E A

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Mapusa

Querim

Candolim

Calangute

Arambol

Anjuna

ChaporaVagator

AswemMorjim

Siolim

Mandrem

Baga

Fort Tiracol

FortAguada

(Terekhol)

Two WeeksNorthern Nonpareil

The north encompasses a little of everything that’s great about Goa. Start with a soothing stay at historic Portuguese Tiracol (Terekhol) Fort, and from here hop on a ferry for solitary sunbathing in Querim, then hit Arambol for beach huts and a permanent festival vibe. Continue south to mellow Mandrem for yogic serenity,

Aswem, to dine at its renowned French-inspired beach shack, and Morjim, where rare turtles hatch and Russians rule, for a stroll along the estuary.

Next head inland via pretty Siolim, to Chapora and Vagator for the last dregs of the Goa trance scene. Kick back in Anjuna, visiting its legendary fl ea market to sniff out a bar-gain, then shop some more at workaday Mapusa with its immense local market.

Backtrack to Baga and Calangute to pick up the pace, hit the clubs, water-sport the days away and dine on fi ne foodstuff s, then fi nally head south to Candolim for a riverine wildlife-watching trip and a jaunt up to impressive Fort Aguada, ending your journey, as it began, in the shadow of Portugal’s once-mighty colonial conquests.

20

A R A B I A NS E A

Margao

Ponda

Agonda

CandolimCalangute

Arambol

Quepem

Old Goa

Chandor

Anjuna

ChaporaVagator

SiolimMandrem

Baga

Panaji

BackwoodsCamp

Dr Salim AliBird Sanctuary

Velsao

Palolem

Cotigao WildlifeSanctuary

UsgalimalRock Carvings

BondlaWildlife

Sanctuary

CorjuemIsland

Divar IslandNaroa

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One MonthThe Best of Goa

With a month to spare, you can truly get to the heart of the state. Start in the north, winding down for a few days in backpacker-central Arambol, and following up with some more quiet in Mandrem, with a yoga retreat or some solitude on its sands. Next head down through the pretty inland village of Siolim, to explore what’s left of

the trance scene at Chapora and Vagator, before moving on to hippyish Anjuna to hit the fl ea markets. Press on then to hard-partying and fi ne-dining in Calangute and Baga and then visit the hulking River Princess tanker at Candolim.

Meandering slowly south, stop off to explore the string of villages along the Mandovi River: drop in on Corjuem Island and Naroa, then hop a ferry to Divar Island, worth exploring for its slow, sleepy pace of life and crumbling old homes. Travel on, via Old Goa, once the fabled ‘Rome of the East’, to Panaji to eat well and soak up the easy city vibe. Once comfortably installed here, take a trip out to the lovely little riverine Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary on Chorao Island. Striking out still further into the hinterland, now’s the time to take a spice plantation tour near Ponda, and, if birdwatching is even faintly your thing, head out even further east to the Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary for a stay at the idyllic Backwoods Camp.

Backtracking to Ponda, head down south to Margao, the workaday gateway to the south-ern beaches, to install yourself in your beach hut or boutique hotel for at least a week, if not a fortnight, of seaside bliss. Go for Agonda if you’re not one for crowds, or Palolem, if you’re looking for a happy backpackery vibe. From here, rent a car or scooter to explore the stretch of coast between Agonda and Velsao, and delve into the hinterland to Chandor, Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Quepem, and the Usgalimal Rock Carvings.

When you’re fi nally ready to break your beach sojourn, consider a couple of nights away in glorious Hampi or pilgrim-heavy Gokarna, before returning to wash away the travails of the road with a last few days in your hammock beside the Arabian Sea.

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Ten DaysAn Inland Adventure

Even in tiny Goa, it’s possible to shrug off the crowds for a taste of the road less travelled. Begin in Panaji, the lovely, languid state capital, before

heading to Old Goa, where the ghosts of Goan history await. Backtrack to pretty Rib-andar to catch a ferry to Chorao Island, home of the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, then ferry-hop to Divar Island for sleepy island life, and take a third ferry to Naroa, to the tiny, ancient Shri Saptakoteshwara Temple and quiet Mayem Lake.

Head west across to Corjuem Island, stopping in at Aldona, Pomburpa, and Britona on the Mandovi River. Turn south, skirting Panaji, via Goa Velha and Agassim, to historic Loutolim, before going east to the temples and spice farms of Ponda. Head further east to one of two wildlife sanctuar-ies: bird-fi lled Bondla or Bhagwan Ma-havir, with its giddy waterfall. Detour to the ancient Tambdi Surla Mahadeva temple, then head south to Chandor. Here, explore one of Goa’s grandest mansions, then visit busy little Quepem en route to the Rivona Buddhist caves, Usgalimal rock carvings and Netravali Bubble Lake. Stroll a trail in Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary before end-ing on the picture-perfect sands of Palolem.

Two WeeksSouthern Sun

Arriving at workaday Margao, hub of the south, cool down at old-fashioned Longhuino’s, before head-ing northwest to begin a stay on the

sands of Velsao. From Velsao, wind slowly down the coast, stopping off at the beaches of Arossim, Utorda, Majorda and Betal-batim, perhaps with a swanky night at the Park Hyatt or Vivenda dos Palhacos thrown in.

Continue on down along the lazy sands of Varca and stop for lunch in Cavelossim. Next detour to Mobor to get a feel for pris-tine estuarine life, then double back to Cav-elossim to jump on a ferry to Assolna, and begin your exploration of Goa’s southern-most stretch.

Follow the coastal road through bucolic Betul all the way to Agonda where you can relax in barefoot splendour, and get stuck into those books you’ve brought along for the ride. Next, hunker down in Palolem where the pace is less lazy, and track down one of its ‘silent parties’. Base yourself here, or in nearby Patnem, to explore the south’s beautiful beaches, or to take a day trip to Galgibag or Polem, two of the state’s quiet-est beaches gracing the coast on the slow road down to Karnataka.

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On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

MUMBAI (BOMBAY) . .38GREATER MUMBAI. . . . . . . . 68Elephanta Island . . . . . . . . . 68

ANJUNA & NORTH GOA . . . . . . . . 70Arambol (Harmal) . . . . . . . . 71Mandrem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74Aswem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76Morjim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Siolim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Vagator & Chapora . . . . . . .79Mapusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Anjuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87Calangute & Baga . . . . . . . .92Candolim, Sinquerim & Fort Aguada . . . . . . . . . . . 99Nerul (Coco) Beach . . . . . .106Along the Mandovi River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106

PANAJI & CENTRAL GOA . . . . . 110Panaji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111West of Panaji . . . . . . . . . . .124Panaji to Old Goa . . . . . . . .125Old Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126Divar Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .133Goa Velha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134Talaulim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135Pilar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135Ponda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135Around Ponda . . . . . . . . . . . 137Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140

Molem & Around . . . . . . . . 141Tambdi Surla . . . . . . . . . . . .142Further Afield . . . . . . . . . . . 143Hampi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143Around Hampi. . . . . . . . . . .148Hospet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149

PALOLEM & SOUTH GOA . . . . . . . 150Margao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Around Margao . . . . . . . . . .158Vasco da Gama . . . . . . . . . . 161Around Vasco da Gama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162Bogmalo to Betalbatim . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162Colva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166Benaulim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169Varca, Cavelossim & Mobor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Assolna to Agonda . . . . . . . 174Chaudi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Palolem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Colomb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Patnem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182Rajbag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183Galgibag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183Polem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184Further Afield . . . . . . . . . . . 184Gokarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184Jog Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186

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