Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)

8/9/2019 Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)

1/10

]d~kqldkq} doz}k~( jhk}d dbz iq~}da~am }da k~lbfowb}okf ki zkjobh

bfm pkho}ojbh hoia jhk}d dahpz zkjobh l~kqpz }k ~ap~kmqja }daczahyaz

bfm }k bjdoaya bq}kfkc k~ bmybf}bla of of}a~bj}okfz |o}d k}da~z&

UO} dbzS bf bhckz} hoco}hazz pk}af}obh ik~ jkccqfojb}okf jhk}d oz b

~apkzo}k~ ik~ p~owam iona~z bfm maz( mamojb}am dqcbf hbnk~( bfm }da

yo~}qkzk b~}oz}~ ki jkcpa}o}oya b~}oz}oj mayahkpcaf}& $Zjdfaoma~ bfm

\aofa~ 2?4?72#>/

Of mazj~onofl jhk}d bz b ca}bpdk~ ik~ zkjoa} $2?4?7::/(

Bffa}}a \aofa~ m~b|z kf bf khm( |ahh#efk|f ]kflbf p~kya~n7dqcbfeofm oz hoea b cb} naofl |kyaf $\aofa~ 2?4?72( nbzam kf

^kla~z 2?


2/10

kq~ jkfjap} ki p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo}&

]k ~a}q~f }k }da p~kya~n( }da ca}bpdk~ ki }da |kyaf cb} oz

at}afmbnha nakfm }da lafabhklojbh z}~bfmz ki dqcbfo} }db}

kya~ }oca |abyaz }kla}da~ b zkjoa} bfm jqh}q~a( }k ofmat }da

ocphojo} dn~omo} bfm p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo} }db} cbeaz jqh}q~a

yon~bf}& ]da pbpa~z of }doz ykhqca p~kyoma yb~oam atbcphaz ki

}da pb~}ojqhb~o}oaz ki jkf}acpk~b~ Pbjoioj omaf}o}oaz }db} b~a bz

cbhhabnha bfm ckyabnha bz }da }at}oha camoqcz }db} afjkma

}dac& \doha }da ik~cz ki j~ab}oya bjdoayacaf} cb moiia~( |a

}dofe |db} }da dbya of jkcckf oz jkq~bla of }da ibja ki

jdbfla( b jbzqbh iab~hazzfazz of bpphofl j~ab}oya ofzpo~b}okf( bfm

bf bzzqcp}okf }db} bf}dofl $phbf} cb}a~obhz( ikqfm kngaj}z( ik~#

aolf |k~mz( z}haz ki m~azz( bq}k pbof}( j~qzdam n~oje/ jbf na

bmbp}am }k b jqh}q~bhh cabfofliqh j~ab}oya pq~zqo}7 p~blcb}oj

j~ab}oyo}&

]daza ozzqaz b~a la~cbfa nakfm }da Pbjoioj& N mabhofl |o}d

ozzqaz ki }at}ohaz cb}a~obho}( lafma~am zolfoiojbfja bfm p~kmqj#

}okf( ~ahkjb}okf( k|fa~zdop( ybhqa( bfm ayaf bq}daf}ojo}( kq~

bq}dk~z kpaf qp byafqaz ik~ mozjqzzokf ki b ~bfla ki ozzqaz |o}d

|dojd cacna~z ki yo~}qbhh bhh zkjoa}oaz l~bppha&

Dyn~omo}y Ofbq}daf}ojo}yOf }doz zpajobh ozzqa( |aya bzeam ~azab~jda~z }k z|o}jd i~kc }da

qzqbh }afmafj }k bzzazz dk| pakpha of ofmolafkqz zkjoa}oaz dbya

~acbofam }~bmo}okfbh k~ naaf ik~jam }k jdbfla& Ofz}abm( |a

bzeam }dac }k jkfzoma~ cb}a~obh jqh}q~az ~ahaybfja of }da kflk#

ofl |abyofl ki omaf}o} bfm jqh}q~a qfma~ yb~ofl pkho}ojbh( ajk#

fkcoj( bfm zkjobh jo~jqcz}bfjaz( ckz} azpajobhh }da jkhkfobh bfm

pkz}#jkhkfobh jkf}at}z ki Pbjoioj mobzpk~bz& ]da rqaz}okfz

bmm~azzam qfma~ }doz fa| pa~zpaj}oya ofjhqma7 |db} rqbho}oaz b~a

ofda~af} of }at}ohaz }db} cbea |kyaf( nab}af( bfm phbo}am jhk}d

ojkfz ki b Pbjoioj a}dkz }db} acn~bjaz ckma~fowb}okf bfm }~bmo#

}okf; \db} b~a }da pkho}ojbh jkf}at}z bfm }da jkfzarqafjaz ki

ocphofl }db} }da~a b~a $k~ aya~ |a~a/ pq~a bq}daf}oj ik~cz ki

bf ybhqam o}acz of }da Pbjoioj; \db} oz }da aiiojbj ki qzofl

cb}a~obh jqh}q~a kngaj}z }k |b~m b|b }da zafza ki ~oze of }da

atpa~oafja ki ckma~fo} $Naje 2??>( Lommafz 2??2/ k~ }da zpaj#

}~a ki ofbq}daf}ojo} $Gkhh 2??>/;

B cbgk~ ckyacaf} of b~} doz}k~ bfm bf}d~kpkhkl }|k mozjo#

phofaz jkfja~fam |o}d jqh}q~bh k~olofz oz }k qfma~z}bfm |d

ja~}bof kngaj}z b~a zbom }k ofmat }~bmo}okf |doha k}da~z b~a jkf#zoma~am ckma~f& ]doz jkfjap}qbh kppkzo}okf ki ckma~fo} bfm

}~bmo}okf oz ck~a bzzqcam }dbf ~abh& Bz Hb}kq~ dbz zdk|f

$2??


3/10

fbh }k zkca}dofl k}da~( |a zaa dn~omo} bz }da kflkofl jkfmo#

}okf ki bhh dqcbf jqh}q~az( |dojd jkf}bof fk wkfaz ki pq~o}

najbqza }da b~a qfma~lkofl jkf}ofqkqz p~kjazzaz ki hafmofl bfm

nk~~k|ofl $^kzbhmk 2??17ty/& Of }doz yoa|( wkfaz ki pq~o}

azzaf}obhh jkfz}o}q}a ibhza mojdk}kcoaz&

]dqz( |a ~agaj} }da fk}okf }db} ckmoioam( dn~omowam( ~a#hkjbh#

owam( jkcckmo}owam( k~ pkho}ojbhh }~bfzfb}okfbh ik~cz kjjqp

zkca zk~} ki ofbq}daf}oj zpbja hkjb}am zkca|da~a na}|aaf }da

pkhaz ki b }~bmo}okf k~ ckma~fo} jkf}ofqqc& Loyaf }doz jqh}q~bh

}afmafj }k ofmolafowb}okf( |daf Pbjoioj kf}khkloaz fb}q~bhowa

dn~omo}( |db} jkfz}o}q}az b jqh}q~bhh yobnha k~olofbh; \a b~lqa

}db} p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo} bz b zkjobhh zbfj}okfam( jqh}q~bhh

acnammam p~kjazz bhhk|z qz }k ~ajklfowa }daza dn~om }at}oha

p~kmqj}z bz bq}daf}oj offkyb}okfz& Pbjoioj pakphaz ofjhqzokf ki

}daza dn~om }at}ohaz of }dao~ jkccqfo}oaz ~o}qbh bfm rqk}omobf

p~bj}ojaz( ofjhqmofl omaf}o} falk}ob}okfz yoz##yoz cacna~z ki

fkf#Pbjoioj jkccqfo}oaz( bhzk cbeaz }daza offkyb}okfz bq}daf#

}oj& Of k}da~ |k~mz( baz}da}oj yozokf bfm jqh}q~bh qza maiofa

bq}daf}ojo}& \doha o} cb zaac ~amqfmbf} }k ~a#b~lqa }da pkof}

}db} offkyb}okf mkaz fk} lbofzb jqh}q~bh bq}daf}ojo}( }afzokfz

}db} aca~la of mozjqzzokfz ki dk| fa| ik~cz b~}ojqhb}a |o}d

khm$a~/ k~ k}da~ }paz ofmojb}a b |omazp~abm mozjkcik~} |o}d

dn~omo} bz kf}khkl&> ]da bq}dk~z of }doz ozzqa mackfz}~b}a(

kya~}h k~ ocphojo}h( }db} dn~omo} oz b fk~cbh ~azqh} ki b zdb~am

bfm mfbcoj a}dkz ki p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo}&

Hoea Gkhh $2??>/ bfm \b}zkf $2??0/( |a fk}a }db} Pbjoioj pak#

phaz ckmqz kpa~bfmo dbz naaf }k j~ab}a jqh}q~bh ik~cz bfm omaf}o#

}oaz of bjjk~mbfja |o}d ofmoyomqbh aflblacaf} of }da hkjbh afyo#

~kfcaf}& Ikt $2??002 n Pdhhoz Da~mb( Pofl#Bff Bmmk( bfm Gbfa

Dk~bf( |bz jbhham Dn~om ]at}ohaz ki }da Pbjoioj& Gadbffa

]aohda}#Ioze |bz b pb~}ojopbf} of \abyofl }da \k~hm bfm |bf}#

am }k pb~}ojopb}a of Dn~om ]at}ohaz& Da~ ohhfazz( |dojd |a

efa| b} }da }oca }k na }a~cofbh( p~ayaf}am da~& ]da pb~}ojopbf}z

of }db} zazzokf qfbfockqzh jdkza }k mamojb}a }dao~ pbpa~z }k

Gadbffa( of dkfk~ ki da~ jkf}~onq}okf }k }da z}qm ki pkpqhb~

ik~cz ki }~bmo}okfbh b~}z( da~ mayk}okf }k da~ z}qmaf}z( bfm }k

Pbjoioj pakphaz $|a ~aia~ kq }k }da zajkfm pbpa~ of }doz ykhqca(

Zbcbf}db Iozez nokl~bpdojbh zea}jd ki da~ ck}da~/& Bi}a~ da~

mab}d of Bqlqz} >00>( pb~}ojopbf}z of }db} zazzokf majomam }k

pqnhozd }dao~ pbpa~z bz b jkhhaj}okf of da~ cack~& ]k }doz afm(

zaya~bh pb~}ojopbf}z ca} blbof of Ybfjkqya~ b} }da >00: BZBK&

]da zazzokf k~lbfowa~z( |dk fk| ofjhqmam Dab}da~ _kqfl Hazhoa(

bhzk ofyo}am jkf}~onq}okfz i~kc k}da~z |dk dbm mayahkpam pa~#

zkfbh bfm zjdkhb~h jkffaj}okfz |o}d ]aohda}#Ioze bfm da~ |k~e

kf Pbjoioj }at}ohaz& ]dqz }doz jkhhaj}okf ki pbpa~z ~ap~azaf}z pa~#

zpaj}oyaz i~bcam n( k~ of ~ahb}okf }k( }da ofzold}z bfm af}dqzo#

bzcz ki Gadbffa ]aohda}#Ioze&

Of pb~}ojqhb~( |a |a~a ofzpo~am n ]aohda}#Iozez pbpa~z kf

]kflbf nb~ejhk}d bfm }da |boz} lb~caf}z jbhham eoaeoa $2??2(2??>b( 2??>n/& ]dkza pbpa~z mabh} p~ocb~oh |o}d jqh}q~bh p~bj#

PbjoiojB~}z

FZ ykhz& :#1( >00


4/10

PbjoiojB~}z

FZ ykhz& :#1( >00/ b} }da zbca }oca(

zda b~lqam( }da bj}qbh cb}a~obh ik~cz ki }da }bkybhb b~a fk} z}bl#

fbf}& Of }doz( zda pkof}am }k }da ihqomo} |o}d |dojd ]kflbfz

bh}a~ }dao~ mboh nkmoh p~bj}ojaz bz }da ckya na}|aaf }da

macbfmz ki ~o}qbh bfm aya~mb ckma~f hoia& ]aohda}#Ioze b~lqam

}db} ik~ jkcckfa~z( }da i~aamkc biik~mam n }da eoaeoa cbma }db}

z}ha ki lb~caf} b pkpqhb~ bh}a~fb}oya }k }da ck~a jkfiofofl}bkybhb& Of ~a}~kzpaj}( |a fk}a }db} ]aohda}#Ioze dbm omaf}oioam

kfa ki }da ea ahacaf}z ki dn~om cb}a~obh jqh}q~a of }da ckma~f

]kflbf a}dfkzjbpa7 jkf}acpk~b~ eoaeoa cb na cbma ki pbf#

mbfqz k~ donozjqz nb~e( k~ kq} ki yomak}bpa( ocpk~}am pabjkje

iab}da~z( k~ hbjrqa~am jkjkfq} zdahh& ]da cb na efk}}am qzofl

cbj~bc }ajdforqaz( j~kjda}am( k~ cbjdofa za|f k~ m~ohham&

\doha jhab~h zfj~a}oj( }da eoaeoa b~a arqbhh doz}k~oj bfm }~bmo#

}okfbh mo~aj}h bfbhklkqz }k }da bp~kfz bfm k}da~ |boz} lb~#

caf}z omaf}oioam of Jkkez 24}d

#jaf}q~ jkhhaj}okfz $Ebappha~

2?9/ zbz $ki Aq~k#

Bca~ojbfz/( |a eaap }da omabz( }da rqk}b}okfz( }da cacko~z( }da

j~ab}okfz( bfm ha} }da pakpha lk& ]da kppkzo}a oz }~qa of }da

Pbjoioj& Mazj~onofl }daza |bz ki k~lbfowofl ybhqbnha }doflz bz

z}haz ki j~ab}oyo}( \blfa~ cbeaz b pkof} bnkq} Pbpqb Fa|

Lqofab }db} |a nahoaya oz ~ahaybf} ik~ }da af}o~a Pbjoioj7 O} oz

pakpha( bfm }da atpa~oafjaz bfm cabfoflz bzzkjob}am |o}d }dac(

}db} }da mk fk} |bf} }k hkza( ~b}da~ }dbf omabz bfm }doflz& _a}

dk| b~a pakpha( atpa~oafjaz( cabfoflz( omabz( bfm }doflz jkf#

faj}am bfm eap}; ]at}ohaz b~a azpajobhh qzaiqh ik~ j~ab}ofl }oaz

}db} nofm $Zjdfaoma~ bfm \aofa~ 2?4?/& ]da ya~ cb}a~obho} ki

}at}ohaz afjkcpbzzaz b ~bfla ki pdzojbh bfm zcnkhoj pk}af}obho#

}oaz }db} pakpha jkf}ofqbhh qza bfm bmbp}& Jbpo}bhowofl kf }doz

jbpbjo}( pakpha ~afma~ }at}ohaz of}k zkjobhh afmq~ofl kngaj}z&

]at}ohaz afmq~a najbqza( bfm zk }db}( }dao~ pakpha afmq~a&Pbjoioj }at}ohaz b~a ki}af cbma ki ahacaf}z i~kc yb~oam jqh}q~bh


5/10

PbjoiojB~}z

FZ ykhz& :#1( >00/& Bz

ja~ackfobh jhk}dofl( }da p~k}aj}( nabq}oi( omaf}oi( bfm jbf }q~f

dqcbf jk~pk~abho} of}k zjqhp}q~a $Bmmk >00=b/( bmmofl zkjobh

|aold} $_kqfl Hazhoa >00=/ |da~a o} oz mqa&

]at}ohaz pdzojbh bfm zkjobh cbhhabnoho} cbeaz }dac b}}~bj}oya

camob ik~ b~}oz}z |dkza p~kjazzaz ofmat ozzqaz ki omaf}o} $Cbhhkf

bfm Pa~ao~b 2??4 bfm >00>/ of jkf}at}z ki gkq~faz bfm lafabhk#

loaz& Gqz} bz kfa jbf }q~f b nkm of}k zjqhp}q~a qzofl }at}ohaz( zk

}kk jbf kfa zjqhp}( ckqhm( k~ $~a/ibzdokf b }at}oha( k~ }da camob

}db} jkfz}o}q}az b }at}oha kngaj}& ]da Ck~o |dk za}}ham io~z} of

|db} |a fk| jbhh Bk}ab~kb+Fa| Wabhbfm dbm bjjazz }k }da

da~aeaea phbf} UihbtS( nq} fk} }da pbfmbfqz ki }dao~ bfjaz}k~z5 }da

bmbp}am }dao~ efk|hamla bfm zeohhz }k }da hkjbh camoqc $ihbt/

p~kmqjofl b fa|( moiia~af}( bfm jhab~h zpajobh jk~pqz ki }at}ohaz

bfm }at}oha#cbeofl }ajdforqaz }db} b~a rqof}azzaf}obhh Cbk~o&Hoea|oza( jkf}acpk~b~ Foqabf |kcaf hoyofl of Bk}ab~kb+Fa|

Wabhbfm dbya acn~bjam fa| cb}a~obhz hoea ihbt( nq} bhzk phbz}oj

pbjeofl z}~opz bfm jkhkq~am ~onnkf bz cb}a~obhz ik~ |abyofl db}z(

nbzea}z( bfm cb}z& ]daya bhzk bpphoam }da z}haz hab~fam kf

Foqa( k~ bmbp}am k}da~ z}haz $]dkma#B~k~b( }doz ozzqa/&

P~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo} ihk|z of bhh mo~aj}okfz7 of ]kflb( |kcaf b~a

phbo}ofl ocpk~}am loi}#|~bp ~onnkf of}k ya~ ckma~f }bkybhb

$_kqfl Hazhoa( }doz ozzqa/&

\a yoa| }doz ~abmofazz }k ~a#afyozokf cqfmbfa kngaj}z( bfm }k

zaa }dac bz dbyofl b~}oz}oj pk}af}obh( bz b jhab~ atbcpha ki p~bl#

cb}oj j~ab}oyo}& Of b ja~}bof pbz}( |daf hkjbh afyo~kfcaf}z |a~a

~oia |o}d zdahhz bfm phbf}z( p~kjazzofl bfm b~}oz}oj cbfopqhb}okf ki

habyaz bfm ihk|a~z ham }k }da ik~cz z}a~ak}poj ki Pbjoioj }at}oha

b~}z }kmb& Dk|aya~( }dkza camob |a~a azzaf}obhh hkjbh dkqzadkhm

kngaj}z |dkza b~}oz}oj pk}af}obh |a~a omaf}oioam bfm }~bfzpkzam

of}k knga}z mb~}& ]kmb( cacna~z ki }da Pbjoioj a}dfkzjbpa hoya of

afyo~kfcaf}z arqbhh q~nbf bfm ~q~bh( |o}d moiia~af} }paz ki

dkqzadkhm bfm ikqfm camob bz ~azkq~jaz& Dqfm~amz ki ab~z bi}a~

|kcaf bmbp}am pbfmbfqz#p~kjazzofl }ajdforqaz }k ofyaf} }da

iona~z qzam ik~ Cbk~o |kyaf jhkbez( }da pb~} Zbckbf( pb~} Cbk~o(

pb~} O~ozd( pb~} ]qybhqbf( pb~} I~afjd( Bqjehbfm ~azomaf}

^kzbffb ^bckfm pb}jdam da~ Hayoz |o}d ]kflbf nb~ejhk}d bfm

j~ab}am b ya~ zpajobh( moiia~af} bfm fa| }pa ki ibzdokf bj}oyozc

$^bckfm >00:72?


6/10

PbjoiojB~}z

FZ ykhz& :#1( >0000072/

b~lqam( }k mk k}da~|oza ahomaz ajkfkcoj( pkho}ojbh bfm zkjobh

ofarqbho}oaz bfm bzzqcaz zkca zk~} ki zcnok}oj ~ahb}okfzdop

na}|aaf pakpha bfm jqh}q~bh ik~cz& \doha cbf jqh}q~bh ik~cz

b~a jkfzoma~am bq}daf}oj najbqza }da p~kcqhlb}a pb~}ojqhb~

pkho}ojbh bfm jqh}q~bh blafmbz( o} oz ocpk~}bf} }k bjefk|hamla

ik~cz }db} ofmat bh}a~fb}oya atpa~oafjaz ki zdb~am jqh}q~bh doz}k#

~oaz& Bz zqjd( cbf ki }da pbpa~z of }doz ykhqca doldhold} }da aho#

zokf( bz |ahh bz }da af}~afjdcaf}( ki ~bfe bfm pk|a~ }d~kqld

cb}a~obh jqh}q~a& Bz ~apkzo}k~oaz ki dqcbf atpa~oafja( jqh}q~bh

ik~cz bhzk ofmat b ~bfla ki hkjb}okfz bfm zkjobh a~bz& O} oz }da~a#

ik~a knyokqz bfm( b~lqbnh( knholb}k~ }k z}~a}jd kq~ hkjb}okfz

ki jkfja~f+bfbhzoz bfm jkfzoma~ Pbjoioj a}dfkzjbpaz of }dao~ lak#

l~bpdoj yb~obnoho}&

Zaya~bh jkf}~onq}k~z }k }doz ykhqca zdk| }db} rqoh}ofl( b }ajd#

fkhkl i~kc Aflhbfm bfm da~ jkhkfoaz( dbz naaf hkjbhowam bfm

ahbnk~b}am n Pbjoioj |kcaf& Zk|ahh( Ebcado~k( Da~ceafz bfm

Da~mb atphk~a }da |bz of |dojd nb~ejhk}dz bfm rqoh}z za~ya bz

qzaiqh jkcckmo}oaz bfm bz }~abzq~am bfm ofbhoafbnha loi}z( nq} bhzk

bz }acphb}az ik~ jkfzoma~ofl acpo~a bfm pkz}#jkhkfobh ~ahb}okfz&

Ahza|da~a( Da~mb $2???/ mazj~onaz ]kflbf#Bca~ojbf |kcaf

pb~}ojopb}ofl of ~o}qbhz }db} ik~cbhh zqnz}bf}ob}a ]kflbf z}b}a

dalackf& \doha p~oz}ofa jqh}q~bh ik~cz b~a jqz}kcb~ of zqjd

ayaf}z( }daza |kcaf qza cbjdofa#za|f rqoh}z bz loi} o}acz ~b}da~

}dbf }da doz}k~ojbhh p~azj~onam phbo}am pbfmbfqz bfm nab}af

nb~ejhk}d& Of zk mkofl( }da zo}qb}a }daczahyaz bz nk}d ]kflbf

bfm ]kflbf#Bca~ojbf5 dn~omz arqbhh ofyaz}am of( bfm i~aa ki(

zpajoioj jqh}q~bh dalackfoaz& ^aikjqzofl kf }da Db|boobf ozhbfmz(

of }doz ozzqa Da~mb at}afmz da~ of}a~az} of z}b}a ofihqafja kf }at#

}oha maphkcaf}z }k b~lqa }db}( of }da zdbmk| ki }da Bca~ojbf

bffatb}okf ki }da Db|boobf ozhbfmz( bfm of }da kflkofl jkf}at}

ki Ebfbeb Cbkho zkya~aolf} ozzqaz( Db|boobf rqoh} ck}oiz b~a

pkho}ojbhh zbia ojkfz najbqza }da mk fk} bpp~kp~ob}a ocblaz ki

ofmolafao}& Mboh#qza o}acz hoea cqlz( z}bcpz( bfm dkca majk~b#

}okfz( bz |ahh bz }kq~oz} o}acz zqjd bz pkz}jb~mz bfm ea jdbofz b~a

acnahhozdam |o}d ofkiiafzoya rqoh} ck}oiz zqjd bz n~abmi~qo} bfm

i~bflopbfo& Ebcado~k fk}az }db} zqjd zcnkhz b~a qfma~z}kkm bz

}~bmo}okfbh( Db|boobf( bfm ayaf jdoaih7 }da dbya hkfl naaf

jkffaj}am }k p~bj}ojaz ki loi} atjdbfla( bfm ocnqam |o}d zpo~o}q#bh bfm pa~zkfbh zolfoiojbfja i~kc pakpha |dk |k~eam }da mazolfz

kf }da rqoh}z& _a}( bz Da~mb pkof}z kq} da~a( bz ofzolfob kf }kq~oz}

kngaj}z }db} b~a cbzz#p~kmqjam bfm dq~~oamh nkqld}( }daza jkf#

}acpk~b~ b~}z b~a jkfzqcam n nk}d ofmoyomqbhz zab~jdofl ik~ b

}bz}a ki }da zk#jbhham bq}daf}oj }~bmo}okfbh Pbjoioj pbz}( bz |ahh bz

n hkjbh Db|boobf pakpha |dk qfma~z}bfm }db} jkf}acpk~b~

b~}oz}oj ik~cz b~a }~bmo}okfbh& Rqoh}am n~abmi~qo} bfm i~bflopbfo

ck}oiz najkca yadojhaz ik~ b ~bfla ki |bz ki af}a~ofl bfm haby#

ofl Db|boobf jqh}q~a&

Ebcado~kz pbpa~ zf}dazowaz b~jdoybh ofik~cb}okf kf b ~bfla ki

Db|boobf mozjkq~zaz bnkq} rqoh}z( rqoh} pb}}a~fz( bfm }ajdfkhk#

loaz( bfm doldhold}z }da bmbp}bnoho} ki Db|boobf baz}da}ojz bfm

ybhqb}okf ki cb}a~obh ik~cz zqjd }db} jk}}kf rqoh}z cbma i~kc bfocpk~}am }ajdfkhkl najbca( bfm bnoma bz( }da p~amkcofbf}

}~bmo}okfbh Db|boobf }at}oha ik~c }kmb& Of da~ doz}k~ojbh bfbhzoz

ki zaya~bh pkpqhb~ Db|boobf rqoh} ck}oiz( Ebcado~k b~lqaz }db}

}da ybhomb}am mozjkq~zaz ki aho}az ~qha bfm bzjafzokf of }da jkf#

}at} ki 24}d

#bfm#2?}d

jaf}q~ ckfb~jd o}zahi b i~bloha b}}acp} }k

dn~omowa p~a#Jd~oz}obf bfm pkz}#cozzokf zkjobh ik~cz bfm }da

pa~o#bffatb}okf pa~okm( fk| }dkqld} ki |o}d fkz}bhlob n Ebfbeb

Cbkho bfm zkya~aolf} bmykjb}az& Rqoh}ofl }ajdfkhkloaz( bz |ahh

bz ki}#qzam mazolfz( |a~a kfja jdoaih p~a~klb}oyaz }db} dbya fk|

naaf mackj~b}owam& Nk}d _kqfl Hazhoa bfm Bmmk cbea zocohb~

pkof}z of }dao~ pbpa~z bnkq} jkcckfa~ b~}ozbfz jkf}~kh kya~ }at#

}oha mazolf bfm p~kmqj}okf& Dk|aya~( of }da p~kmqj}okf ki doz#

}k~oj Db|boobf rqoh}z bz loi}z( dk|( |daf( bfm ik~ |dkc }da

|a~a p~kmqjam( b~a bj}okfz ocnqam |o}d p~k}kjkhz bfm zkjobh

~azpkfzonoho}oaz }db} ofmatam }dao~ jdoaih k~olofz& Ebcado~kz

azzb jkcphacaf}z Zk|ahhz bfm Zjk}dk~fz |k~e of doz}k~ojbhh

cbppofl }da ofihqafja ki doa~b~jd bfm aho}az kf b~} ik~cz zqjd

bz rqoh}ofl bfm( of }da jbza ki Zbckb bfm ]kflb( nb~ejhk}d cbe#

ofl& B} }da zbca }oca( Ebcado~kz of}a~az} of }da cqh}opha caz#

zblaz }db} rqoh}z afjkmam ik~ Db|boobfz mq~ofl }da }q~nqhaf}

}ocaz ki }da hbz} Db|boobf zkya~aolfz ~azkfb}az of nk}d bfbh}ojbh

}ajdforqa bfm }~bfz#jqh}q~bh zjkpa |o}d Zdb~~bmz bfbhzoz ki }da

of}a~#}at}qbho} bfm }da cfackfoj jkmofl ki b poaja ki nb~ejhk}d

i~kc ]bdo}o& Of bhh }d~aa bfbhzaz( jhk}d oz }at}qbh bfm jbf na ~abm

bj~kzz }oca( zpbja( bfm jqh}q~bh nkqfmb~oaz $bh}dkqld o} oz fk}

bh|bz ~abm bjjq~b}ah/&

Zdb~~bmz }dak~a}ojbhh zkpdoz}ojb}am b~}ojha m~b|z kf dn~om

zkq~jaz ]bdo}obf pka}~ bfm N~o}ozd acn~koma~ }k mackf#

z}~b}a dk| bf bfbhzoz jbf bmda~a }k Jkkcnaz bfm N~bdz $>000/|b~fofl }k bykom qfj~o}ojbh jahan~b}okfz ki zfj~a}ozc( |doha pb#


7/10

ofl b}}af}okf }k ajkfkcoj( pkho}ojbh( bfm zkjobh ofarqbho}oaz& Of

doz mozjqzzokf ki Ahowbna}d Jkkez acn~koma~am ]bdo}obf nb~e#

jhk}d( of}afmam }k na b |boz}jkb} ik~ da~ dqznbfm( }da atphk~a~

Jbp}bof Gbcaz Jkke( Zdb~~bm jkofz }da }a~c p~blcb}ojz ki ckm#

oiojb}okf b jkfjap} zacbf}ojbhh jkfl~qaf} |o}d kq~ fk}okf ki

p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo}& Ahowbna}d Jkke |bz |omk|am( bfm }da |boz}#

jkb} |bz faya~ jkcpha}am& Nq} of Zdb~~bmz bfbhzoz( o} ~acbofz b

}at}oha |doha najkcofl b ~abmbnha }at}& Zdb~~bm jkcpb~az }da

|boz}jkb}z acn~koma~am zq~ibja }k ]bdo}obf bfm Jkke Ozhbfmz

pka}~( |~o}}af of I~afjd bfm Aflhozd7 nk}d zolfoi cabfofliqh

zolfoiojb}okfz kf }at}q~am $|do}a/ zq~ibjaz5 nk}d b~a hba~am

}at}z5 nk}d jbf na ~abm bz zo}qb}okfz of |dojd ocpa~obh pk|a~

bfm Pbjoioj cabfoflz b~a hba~am bfm ~a#jkfiolq~am( nq} fk} of

zocphoz}oj |bz& Of Zdb~~bmz bfbhzoz( jkhkfobh bfm pkz}#jkhkfobh

b~}oibj}z b~a jklfo}oyah kpaf( ~opa ik~ ~a#~abmofl bfm ~a#of}a~p~a#

}b}okf& Gqz} bz }da nb~ejhk}d i~kc ]bdo}o |bz k~olofbhh acn~ko#

ma~am of}k bf b~}oibj} |a jbf qza }kmb ik~ ~abmofl }da jkcphato#

}oaz ki jkhkfobhozc( zk oz o} zqngaj} }k $of}ahhaj}qbh/ ~a#acn~koma~#

ofl& Hoea|oza( ]bdo}obf pka} Ihk~b Mayb}ofa hba~z dn~om }at}oha

bfm zolfoiojb}okf( bfm ~a#acn~koma~z cabfoflz |daf zda qzaz

I~afjd bfm Cb`kdo |k~mz bz }at} kf pbpa~& ^abmofl Zdb~~bmz

azzb of ~ahb}okf }k Bmmkz azzb kf flb}q papb habmz qz }k ~ajkl#

fowa }da |bz of |dojd pbpa~ jbf na b }at}oha bfm yoja ya~zb&

]kmb( }da qfiofozdam |boz}jkb}( Mayb}ofaz pkacz( bfm flb}q

papb zpabe }k ckcaf}z ki ~qp}q~a( nabq}( hkya( hkzz( omaf}o}( bfm

lafma~am ik~cz ki ~azpkfzonoho}&

Ofmaam( kfa b~ab of |dojd Pbjoioj }at}ohaz zaac }k dbya bnomofl

zolfoiojbfja oz bz lafma~am zcnkhz ki nahkflofl bfm mackfz}~b#

}okfz ki ~kha bfm ~azpkfzonoho}& ]da zdk~}dbfm rqbhoioa~ |kcafz

|abh}d dbz ~aia~~am }k }at}ohaz ki bf eofm7 rqoh}z( iofa cb}z k~

pbpa~& _a}( |doha }da Pbjoioj pakphaz jkfzoma~am of }daza pbpa~z

lafa~bhh jkfzoma~ }at}oha cbeofl }k fk} na cafz |k~e pa~ za(

caf ki}af mk pb~}ojopb}a of p~kmqj}okf( dahp }k k~lbfowa ja~ack#

fobh atjdbflaz( ~ajaoya p~azaf}b}okfz ki }at}oha |abh}d $_kqfl

Hazhoa 2???/( bfm qza }at}ohaz of cqfmbfa bfm ja~ackfobh jkf#

}at}z& Dk|aya~( bz Da~ceafz azzb doldhold}z( of }da jkf}at} ki

bpp~kp~ob}okf( ckfa}owb}okf( bfm ckma~fowb}okf( }at}ohaz jbf bhzk

na lafma~am bz cbha p~kmqj}z& Bi}a~ b n~oai mozjqzzokf ki }da zc#

nkhozc ki majk~b}oya mazolfz( nb~e p~kjazzofl( ma pk}z( bfm maz

of Cbozof nb~ejhk}d p~kmqj}okf( Da~ceafz ma}bohz }da zdoi}z of

~ahb}okfz ki nb~ejhk}d p~kmqj}okf }db} dbya }beaf phbja of }dahbz} dbhi jaf}q~ of Jkhhofl|kkm Nb( Pbpqb Fa| Lqofab $zaa

bhzk Bmmk bfm Nazfoa~( ik~}djkcofl/& \doha nb~ejhk}d jkcca~#

jobhowb}okf j~ab}az b zpbja ik~ iacbha blafj( o} bhzk j~ab}az b

zpbja ki }afzokf bz caf zaae }k jkf}~kh bfm mkcofb}a |kcafz

p~kmqj}okf& B} }da zbca }oca( kq}zoma ik~jaz( ofjhqmofl

L~aafpabja bfm }da hkjbh Bflhojbf Jdq~jd( b~a n~kea~ofl ik~ }da

}kq~oz} cb~ea} bfm dahpofl }k bjjaha~b}a jdbflaz of }da lafma~am

~ahb}okfz ki p~kmqj}okf bfm jkf}~kh& Kfja zk zpajoiojbhh }da |k~e

ki |kcaf }k }da pkof} |da~a b |kcbf jkqhm na omaf}oioam n

}da mazolfz kf da~ jhk}d nb~ejhk}d of Cbozof fk| ofjhqmaz

nb~ejhk}dz nab}af n |kcaf( majk~b}am n caf( bfm cb~ea}am n

L~aafpabja&

Da~ceafz ma}boham atphbfb}okf ki }da ca}bpdk~ojbh zolfoio#

jbfja kimqf $~am ma zcnkhoj ki nhkkm/ bfm ma pk}z $zcnkhoj

ki |kcnz/ ~ahb}az }k bfk}da~ ocpk~}bf} b~ab ki lafma~am zolfoio#

jbfja ki Pbjoioj }at}ohaz& Of cbf jkf}at}z jhk}d p~kmqj}okf bfm

maphkcaf} b~a jhkzah bzzkjob}am |o}d ck}da~z bfm }da hkya bfm

~azpkfzonoho} }db} }da nab~ }dao~ jdohm~af bfm ibcoh $Bmmk

>00=n5 Zjdfaoma~ bfm \aofa~ 2?4?5 Dkzeofz 2?4?5 Ik~zdaa >0005

_kqfl Hazhoa 2???( >00=5 bhzk zaa Bmmk( ]dkma#B~k~b( _kqfl

Hazhoa bfm Zk|ahh( bhh of }doz ozzqa/& ]daza cb}a~fbh jkfja~fz

j~kzz Pbjoioj a}dfkzjbpaz bfm b~a jb~~oam of}k mobzpk~bz& ]dkma#

B~k~b bfm Bmmk mozjqzz dk| jhk}d p~kmqj}okf n |kcaf i~kc

Foqa bfm ]kflb( fk| ~azomaf}z bfm jo}owafz ki Fa| Wabhbfm( iofm

|bz }k mackfz}~b}a }k }dao~ jdohm~af bfm l~bfmjdohm~af zkca ki

}da ckz} zbhoaf} bzpaj}z ki naofl ck}da~z of }dao~ a}dfoj }~bmo#

}okfz&

Jkfja~fz bnkq} bpp~kp~ob}a ck}da~dkkm bfm zkjobh knholb}okf

kya~hbp |o}d jkfja~fz bnkq} jqh}q~bh bq}daf}ojo} of( bfm ki(

Pbjoioj mobzpk~bz& Bmmk $}doz ykhqca/ bmm~azzaz }doz ozzqa of da~

pbpa~ kf ]kflbf nb~ejhk}d p~kmqj}okf of Fa| Wabhbfm& Flb}q

papb nb~ejhk}d cbma( fk} i~kc dobpk $pbpa~ cqhna~~ k~ n~kqz#

zkfa}ob pbp~oia~b/ nb~e nq} i~kc yhafa( b zf}da}oj ibn~oj qzam

ik~ lb~caf} of}a~ibjofl # oz jkf}af}okqz najbqza o} oz fk} cbma ki

dobpk nb~e bfm najbqza }da ckz} of}afza bfm hbnk~okqz z}blaz ki

nb~e nab}ofl b~a bykomam& _a} ]kflbf |kcaf ofykhyam of flb}q

papb p~kmqj}okf bmda~a }k }da omakhkl }db} lkkm ]kflbf ck}d#

a~z $of ibj} bhh bmqh} |kcaf/ zdkqhm hbnk~ }k p~kmqja nb~ejhk}d&

]doz oz moiiojqh} of }da mobzpk~b( |da~a dobpk nbz} oz qfbybohbnha&

]dqz( }da p~blcb}ojz ki ckmoiojb}okf $Zdb~~bmz }a~c/ jdbh#

hafla zqjd bf omakhkl |daf mobzpk~oj ]kflbf |kcaf jkfzoma~(

bfm jkf}az}( gqz} |db} bckqf}( eofm( bfm of}afzo} ki hbnk~ }dajbf ~ackya |o}dkq} biiaj}ofl }da cabfofl bfm ~kha ki flb}q papb

PbjoiojB~}z

FZ ykhz& :#1( >00


8/10

of dk| }da j~bi} }dao~ omaf}o}oaz& ]dao~ flb}q papb }da~aik~a

acnkmoaz jkfja~fz bnkq} lafma~ ~khaz( ~aholokqz ~azpkfzonoho}(

jkkpa~b}oya hbnk~( jkccqfo} mayahkpcaf}( bfm jqh}q~bh jkda#

zokf( bfm manb}az bnkq} omaf}o} bfm hkjb}okf ki bq}daf}oj jqh#

}q~a& Ek acbq bb}o pa $o} oz kq~ b~}/( zb Bmmkz of}a~hkjq}k~z

bnkq} }da flb}q papb }da dbya ofyaf}am( zocqh}bfakqzh ayke#

ofl o}z ~old}iqh phbja bz bf kngaj} ki }~bmo}okf bfm biiotofl

\az}a~f fk}okfz ki b~} of bf atpbfmofl mozjkq~za bnkq} jqh}q~bh

p~kmqj}okf bckfl jkf}acpk~b~ ]kflbfz& Dk|aya~( bz Bmmk

ofmojb}az( |db} oz fk} $a}/ iotam oz }da }a~~o}k~ kya~ |dojd flb}q

dbz zolfoiojbfja7 flb}q papb jkf}ofqaz }k na zkca|db} zqzpaj}( ik~

zkca&

Of cbf Pbjoioj Ozhbfm zkjoa}oaz( jhk}d oz bzzkjob}am |o}d lafma~

bfm dold#~bfeofl |kcaf5 cb}a~fobho} oz jkffaj}am }k lafabhkl(

zkjobh ~ap~kmqj}okf( bfm }da }~bfzia~afja ki ofda~o}bfja bfm p~oy#

ohala $Ebappha~ 2?00:/& Bz _kqfl Hazhoa $2???( >00=/ dbz

mackfz}~b}am( ik~ jkcckfa~ ]kflbf |kcaf( cb}a~fobho} bfm

jhk}d p~kmqj}okf b~a bhzk bnkq} }da }~bfzia~afja ki kppk~}qfo}(

ck~bh iona~( bfm }da iqhiohhcaf} ki ibcohobh knholb}okfz }db} habm }k

zkjobh |ahhfazz& \da~a aho}a |kcaf naz}k| kf }dao~ jdohm~af

nhkkm ~bfe( jkcckfa~ |kcaf loya }dao~ jdohm~af bfm ibcohoaz

}dao~ ofmqz}~( ofjhqmofl }da hbnk~ ~arqo~am ik~ }at}oha p~kmqj}okf&

Of }doz ozzqa( _kqfl Hazhoa ma}bohz jkcckfa~ |kcafz atpa~oaf#

}obh efk|hamla( pa~zpaj}oyaz( bfm z}~b}aloj maphkcaf}z ki }~bmo#

}okfbh jhk}d( bfm mozjqzzaz }da zcnkhoj bhhqzokfz bzzkjob}am |o}d

phbo}ofl }at}ohaz bhhqzokfz }db} mk fk} fajazzb~oh ~aphojb}a }dkza

bzzkjob}am |o}d }~bfzia~afja ki p~oyohala& ]doz jqh}q~bhh ojkfoj

ik~c ki efk|ofl hhbflb oz p~aza~yam kfh }d~kqld p~bj}oja

}da |k~e ki |abyofl $k~ phbo}ofl/ pbfmbfqz& \o}dkq} zqppk~} ik~

}da jkcckfa~ |kcaf |dk cbea ja~ackfobh }at}oha p~kmqj}okf

}dao~ hoiaz |k~e( }doz efk|hamla cb na hkz} i~kc }da jqh}q~bh

~apa~}ko~a( bz dbz naaf }da efk|#dk| ik~ hbhbyb( }da }~bmo}okfbh

cafz efk|hamla ki |~bppofl bfm nofmofl |o}d jk~mbla& Nbzam

kf a}dfkl~bpdoj ioahm|k~e jkfmqj}am of bf b~ab }db} oz ki}af

z}a~ak}pam bz }da dab~}hbfm ki }~bmo}okfbh ]kflbf jqh}q~bh p~bj#

}ojaz( _kqfl Hazhoa b~lqaz }db} maphkcaf} ~b}okfbhaz( }da fkf#

zj~op}am( acnkmoam fb}q~a ki }da efk|hamla( phqz }da apoz}ackhk#

l ki }da }~bmo}okfbh p~kmqj}okf }ajdfkhkloaz( cabfz o} oz jkc#

ckfa~ |kcaf |dk b~a qfma~|~o}ofl |bz ik~ jkf}acpk~b~

]kflbfz bj~kzz }da a}dfkzjbpa( azpajobhh }da aho}az( }k nadn~omz7 nk}d }~bmo}okfbh bfm ckma~f( |k~hmh bfm ofmolafkqz&

Hoea _kqfl Hazhoa( Bhhaf at}afmz kq~ qfma~z}bfmofl ki dn~omo}

of jhk}dz maphkcaf}7 bmkp}ofl bf b~} doz}k~obfz pa~zpaj}oya kf

}da bpphojb}okf ki z}k~a#nkqld} jhk}d |da~a k}da~ }~bmo}okfbh

}at}ohaz cb dbya naaf qzam naik~a( Bhhaf mazj~onaz dk| }~bma

z}k~a jbhojkz bfm k}da~ pq~jdbzam ibn~ojz cb na maphkam }k

ofz}bf}ob}a zkjobh bfm ja~ackfobh zpbjaz of jkf}acpk~b~ Zbckb&

]da lafa~bh acpdbzoz kf Zbckbf ja~ackfobh zpbja( bz apo}k#

cowam n }da yohhbla cbhba( oz azzaf}obhowam bz bf acp} jaf}a~ zq~#

~kqfmam n b macb~jb}am nb~~oa~ $Cblak >00>5 \afm} 2?00


9/10

mazolfz nk}d kf nb~ejhk}d zq~ibjaz bfm }b}}kkam zeof $Zk|ahh

>000/& Da~a( zda jkf}ofqaz }doz ikjqz kf dn~omo} of omaf}oiofl

}d~aa pohhb~z ki Zbckbf nb~ejhk}d#cbeofl7 ck}oiz( jkcpkzo}okf(

bfm fb}q~bh cb}a~obh& Ajdkofl }da ocphojb}okfz ki Zjk}dk~fz

|k~e( Zk|ahh mackfz}~b}az of l~ab}a~ ma}boh bfm jkcphato} dk|

kpaf Zbckbf b~}oz}z dbya ~acbofam }k ik~cz }db} jkfz}o}q}a jkf#

}acpk~b~ nb~ejhk}d |doha ckmoiofl yb~okqz bzpaj}z ki p~kmqj#

}okf bfm mazolf& ]dao~ p~blcb}oj bpp~kbjd }k j~ab}oyo}( bz

Zk|ahh acpdbzowaz of da~ doz}k~ojowb}okf ki }ajdforqaz( zdk|z

}db} Zbckbf nb~ejhk}d bfm nb~ejhk}d#cbeofl arqopcaf} jbffk}

na gqz}oiobnh jb}alk~owam bz }~bmo}okfbh( ckma~f( k~ ayaf fak#}~b#

mo}okfbh& Da~ |k~e ~ao}a~b}az Gadbffa ]aohda}#Iozez $2??2/ jbq#

}okf bnkq} }da p~knhacb}oj fb}q~a ki jb}alk~owofl jqh}q~bh ik~cz

bfm p~bj}ojaz bz bf}dofl nq} dn~om&

Jkfjhqzokf

Of }doz zpajobh jkhhaj}okf ki azzbz( kq~ of}af}okf oz }k cbea }da

ikhhk|ofl b z}bfmb~m yoa| of z}qmoaz bnkq} }da Pbjoioj7 bj~kzz }da

ib~ ihqfl ~alokfz ki Pbjoioj a}dfkzjbpaz( b~}oz}z bfm bqmoafjaz( j~ab}k~z

bfm jkfzqca~z acphk pa~zkfbh bfm jqh}q~bh blafj of zqppk~}ofl(

zqllaz}ofl( bfm zbfj}okfofl }da dn~omo} ki b~}oz}oj ik~cz& ]da nqohm

kf b jqh}q~bh a}dkz ki p~blcb}oj j~ab}oyo} of }da za~yoja ki atp~azzofl

ofmoyomqbh ykojaz bfm nkhz}a~ofl jkhhaj}oya omaf}o}& \doha of zkca

jbzaz( }daza dn~om ik~cz k~ maphkcaf}z b~a jkf}az}am $zaa

Bmmk( Da~ceafz/( of ckz} jbzaz dn~omo} oz( bfm dbz bh|bz

naaf( acn~bjam( ofmolafowam( bfm cbma hkjbh $zaa Ebcado~k(

Zjk}dk~f( Zdb~~bm( _kqfl Hazhoa/& ]da zpaj}a~z ki ofbq}daf}ojo}

b~a lbofzbom n }da p~blcb}oj( iqfmbcaf}bh ~abho} ki dn~omo} bz

b jkfz}o}q}okfbh iab}q~a ki Pbjoioj jqh}q~bh j~ab}oyo}oaz& ]at}ohaz( bz

ihqom camoqcz ik~ ca}bpdk~owb}okf( afjkma( mkjqcaf} bfm bhhk|

Pbjoioj pakphaz }k ~abm( bfm ~a#~abm( ~a#acn~koma~ bfm ~a#|abya

}dao~ |k~hmz& Zkjoa} oz gqz} hoea b cb} naofl |kyaf&

Bjefk|hamlacaf}z

]k }da bq}dk~z |dkza jkf}~onq}okfz cbma }doz zpajobh ozzqa ki Pbjoioj B~}z pkzzo#

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Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)

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Transcript of Pacific Textiles, Pacific Cultures: Hybridity and PragmaticCreativity. (Young-Leslie and Addo 2007)