PAœ METRIC RECIPE TABLES - Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science

I N D E X L V

Page references of the form 4·381 refer to volume 4 , page 381

PA� METRIC RECIPE TABLESBest Bets for Stocks ................................................................................... 2·296–297Stock Aromatics ............................................................................2·298Broths ................................................................................... 2·304–305Infused Liquids .............................................................................2·310Lowering pH .................................................................................2·314Adding Flavor with Alcohol .........................................................2·317Using Essences and Extracts in Cooking ....................................2·325Extracts ..........................................................................................2·326Infused Fats ...................................................................................2·329Jus ......................................................................................... 2·344–345Consommé ........................................................................... 2·374–375Vegetable and Fruit Purees...........................................................2·425Freeze-Drying ...............................................................................2·451Tartares ............................................................................................3·63Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide .................................................3·96Cooking Tender Red Poultry Sous Vide .......................................3·99Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide ...................................3·99Cooking Fish Sous Vide ...............................................................3·102Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide ...........................................3·103Cooking Tough Poultry ................................................................3·108Cooking Tough Shellfish ..............................................................3·108Cooking Tough Cuts ....................................................................3·109Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide ..................................................3·146Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide ....................................3·146Brines .............................................................................................3·168Wet Cures ......................................................................................3·169 Dry Rubs .......................................................................................3·169 Brining ...........................................................................................3·172Curing ............................................................................................3·172Smoking Meats and Seafood ........................................................3·210Burgers ...........................................................................................3·234Coarse-Ground Sausages .................................................... 3·236–237Emulsion-Style Sausages ..................................................... 3·238–239Fermented Sausages ............................................................. 3·244–245Gas-Ripened Fruit ........................................................................3·285Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender ......................................3·288Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide Until Tender ..............................3·289Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide for Purees ...................3·290Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup Until Tender ............3·291Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat Until Tender ...............3·292Warming Vegetables Sous Vide ....................................................3·292Blanching Sous Vide .....................................................................3·293Potato Purees ................................................................................3·297Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods ....................................................3·300Risotto ...........................................................................................3·305Microwaving Vegetables ...............................................................3·311Naked Frying.................................................................................3·320Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips ..................................................3·328Batters ............................................................................................3·333Preservation ..................................................................................3·348Heat-Treated Fruit ........................................................................3·359Smoked Plant Foods .....................................................................3·362Dehydration ..................................................................................3·366Freeze-Drying Plant Foods ..........................................................3·372Pasta Doughs .................................................................................3·381Compressing or Impregnating Produce ......................................3·390

Thickening with Natural Starch ....................................................4·28Thickening with Modified Starch..................................................4·30Thickening Cold Liquids ...............................................................4·46Thickening Hot Liquids .................................................................4·47Making Milks and Creams .............................................................4·56Edible Films ....................................................................................4·60Cooking Whole Eggs ......................................................................4·78Pickled and Preserved Eggs ...........................................................4·82Separated Egg Gels .........................................................................4·85Blended Egg Gels ............................................................................4·92Smoking Dairy and Eggs ..............................................................4·100Protein Curds ................................................................................4·104Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa) .....................................4·116Cold Gels .............................................................................. 4·140–141Firm Coating Gels ........................................................................4·151Hot Gels ........................................................................................4·160Hot Fruit Gels ...............................................................................4·165Methylcellulose Gels ....................................................................4·171Fluid Gels ......................................................................................4·177Spherification ................................................................................4·187Constructed Cheeses ....................................................................4·223Airs, Bubbles, and Froths .............................................................4·264Light Foams...................................................................................4·270Thick, Fine-Textured Foams ............................................... 4·278–279Set Foams ............................................................................. 4·288–289Puffed Snacks ................................................................................4·302

ST� TEGIES TABLESCooking in CVap Ovens and Combi Ovens ...................... 2·170–171Using a Microwave Oven .............................................................2·185Sous Vide Cooking Strategies ............................................. 2·204–205Water Bath Strategies for Cooking Sous Vide.............................2·244Cooling Sous Vide ........................................................................2·255Freezing Sous Vide .......................................................................2·259Thawing Sous Vide .......................................................................2·263Searing After Sous Vide ....................................................... 2·270–275Juicing .................................................................................. 2·336–337Thickening Sauces, Jus, and Glazes .............................................2·346Filtering Liquids and Clarifying Consommés ...........................2·352Concentrating ...............................................................................2·379Grinding, Milling, and Pureeing .................................................2·400Drying ...........................................................................................2·430Cooking with Liquid Nitrogen ....................................................2·459Rendering Fats ..............................................................................3·145Marinating .....................................................................................3·192Making Emulsions ............................................................... 4·208–209Creating Foams .................................................................... 4·258–260

ModCui-VOL5 INDEX.indd 55 3/22/11 10:56:30 AM

L V I I N D E X

STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURESHOW TOWash Your Hands Properly ................................................. 1·198–199Read the Phase Diagram of Water ...................................... 1·302–303Make Exceptional Ice Cream with Liquid Nitrogen ..................1·311Supercool Water ............................................................................1·312Measure Relative Humidity .........................................................1·322Read a Psychrometric Chart ........................................................1·323Find the Sweet Spot ................................................................. 2·16–17Calculate the Sweet Zone of Your Broiler .............................. 2·22–23Make Your Electric Broiler Perform Like a Wood-Fired Oven ......................................................... 2·26–27Season a Wok or Frying Pan...........................................................2·53Pack Food in Canning Jars .............................................................2·78Sterilize Acidic Canned Foods in Boiling Water ..........................2·81Use a Pressure Canner ....................................................................2·89Braise or Pot-Roast Meat................................................................2·99Make Bacon and Eggs in a Combi Oven ............................ 2·174–175Roast a Chicken in a Combi Oven ..................................... 2·178–179Vacuum Pack Food with a Chamber Sealer ....................... 2·218–221Vacuum Pack Food with an Edge Sealer .....................................2·224Cook in a Bath Set to Final Temperature ....................................2·246Cook in a Bath Set Hotter Than Final Temperature ..................2·246 Cook in Multiple Baths ....................................................... 2·248–249Freeze Food in a Salty Brine ........................................................2·260Pressure-Cook Stock ....................................................................2·293Make Stocks: Basic, White, Shellfish, or Rich Brown ................2·297Make Stock Sous Vide ..................................................................2·302Wash Citrus Oil ............................................................................2·321Extract Juice from Plants with Pectinase ....................................2·336Extract Juice by Osmosis or Freezing ................................. 2·336, 337 Keep Fresh-Squeezed Juice Fresh ................................................2·339Clarify Juice with a Buon Vino Pressure Filter ...........................2·355Vacuum Filter ................................................................................2·357Balance a Centrifuge .....................................................................2·363Separate Liquids by Centrifuging ................................................2·364Separate Fresh Butterfat from Cream ..........................................2·366Filter with Gelatin Ice ......................................................... 2·370–371Clarify Liquids with Agar ................................................... 2·372–373Reduce Juice in a Vacuum ............................................................2·381Distill with a Rotavap ...................................................................2·388Freeze Concentrate .......................................................................2·397Mill a Creamy Nut Butter .................................................... 2·418–419Use a Spray Dryer .........................................................................2·442Cryopoach in Liquid Nitrogen or Oil .........................................2·460Cryograte and Cryopowder .........................................................2·461Disassemble Fruit with Liquid Nitrogen ....................................2·462Cryoshape and Cryoshatter .........................................................2·463Carbonate a Liquid .......................................................................2·468Carbonate Fruit ............................................................................2·469Preserve the Freshness of Truffles ...................................... 2·470–471Carbonate Fruit with Dry Ice ......................................................2·472Kill Fish with the Ike Jime Method ................................................3·38Dry-Age Meat ..................................................................................3·42Seam-Cut a Lamb Leg ....................................................................3·46Dissect a Pork Shoulder .......................................................... 3·48–49Block Tuna ............................................................................... 3·54–55Prepare Tender Squid .....................................................................3·56

Fillet a Flatfish ................................................................................3·57Prepare Abalone ....................................................................... 3·58–59Slice Fish for Nigiri-zushi ...............................................................3·60Flash-Cook Sushi with Hot Oil, a Torch, or a Broiler ..................3·61 Cryoshatter for Tartare...................................................................3·64Precook Duck Skin .........................................................................3·82Cook the Perfect Hamburger Sous Vide .......................................3·86Pressure-Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results ............................3·114Cryosear a Duck Breast ....................................................... 3·124–125Puff the Skin on a Pork Roast ............................................. 3·125–126Cook Crispy Fish Skin and Make Fish Skin Pillows ......... 3·130–131 Brine or Wet-Cure Meat: Equilibrium Method ................. 3·170–171Speed Brine or Wet-Cure by Injection or Vacuum ............ 3·174–175Vacuum Tumble ............................................................................3·175Pressure Marinate .........................................................................3·207Pack and Light Your Smoke Gun .................................................3·214Grind Meat and Fat ......................................................................3·228Form and Finish a Sausage .................................................. 3·240–241Ferment Sous Vide .......................................................................3·245Choose and Use Activa ....................................................... 3·254–256Rejoin Seam-Boned Cuts .............................................................3·255 Make a Leaner Rack of Lamb ......................................................3·255 Bond with the Slurry Method ......................................................3·256 Reconstruct a Whole Fish ............................................................3·256 Ripen on Command .....................................................................3·285Blanch Sous Vide ..........................................................................3·293Make the Ultimate French Fry ....................................................3·322Measure Thickeners .......................................................................4·23Disperse a Thickener ............................................................... 4·24–25Hydrate a Thickener .......................................................................4·26Peel an Egg with Liquid Nitrogen .................................................4·78Make a Perfect Soft-Boiled Egg .....................................................4·79Use Ion-Coagulating Gels ............................................................4·129Use a Sequestrant ..........................................................................4·129Cast Gels .......................................................................................4·132Mold Gels and Suspend Solids in Gels .......................................4·133Cast Thick Gel Sheets and Make Gel “Linguine”.......................4·134Mold and Freeze Gel Spheres ......................................................4·135Make Firm Gel Beads and Droplets ................................... 4·136–137Extrude Gel Noodles ........................................................... 4·138–139Quick-Set a Fluid Gel and Make a Coarse Fluid Gel .................4·179Suspend a Solid in a Gelled Sphere .............................................4·187Create Reverse Spherification .....................................................4·187 Make Clarified and Brown Butter ...............................................4·213Make Edible Prune Coals .................................................... 4·314–315Set Up a Triangle Test ..................................................................4·336Hyperdecant Wine ........................................................................4·343Taste Coffee Like a Pro ................................................................4·365Use a Brewing Control Chart ............................................. 4·366–367Grind Beans for Espresso .............................................................4·377Groom a Portafilter ......................................................................4·381Tamp Evenly ..................................................................................4·382Pull an Espresso Shot .......................................................... 4·386–387Steam Milk ....................................................................................4·390Make Latte Art ..................................................................... 4·394–395Clean an Espresso Machine .........................................................4·397


I N D E X L V I I

AGING A

A A&P grocery stores, innovations of, 1·21abalones

Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203

biology of, 3·26, 27cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·108Japanese cu� ing of, 3·52preparing, how to, 3·58–59

absolutes, from concretes or oleoresins, 2·320

absorptionby graybodies, 1·286of radiation, 1·285

Abu I-Hasan “Ali Ibn Na� ,” 1·10AccuSteam Griddle, 2·41, 158acetaldehyde, citrus � avor and, 5·149acetic acid. See vinegarAchatz, Grant

Bacon Chips with Bu� erscotch, Apple, and � yme recipe, 3·189

Bacon Powder Squares recipe, 4·34biography of, 1·68on copying dishes, 1·71critics on, 1·63on dehydrating fruits and vegetables,

3·366Eggs Benedict recipe, 4·86on elBulli meal, 1·38–39Modernist cuisine and, 1·52, 62, 67Mozzarella Balloons recipe,

4·110–111Pineapple Glass recipe, 3·370Shrimp Cocktail recipe, 3·107Steingarten on, 1·65Tro� er and, 1·69Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel recipe,

4·183Vanilla Olive Oil Powder recipe,

4·35acidi� ers

bu� ering and, 2·315example recipes for, 2·315parametric recipe for, 2·314–315

acidity of food. See also pHboiling-water sterilization of canned

foods and, 2·81canning method and, 2·76pressure-canning and, 2·85–91USDA canning guidelines and,

2·79–80acids or acidic compounds. See also pH;

speci� c compoundsas acidi� ers, 2·314–315for marinating, 3·190, 192–193pH and, 3·194plant food cooking and, 3·276, 278protein gelling and, 4·70

acidulants, thickening with, 4·13

acorn squash, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289

acrolein, in reused deep-frying oil, 2·124, 125

acrylamideas Maillard reaction product, 1·220in reused deep-frying oil, 2·125

actin, in muscle, 3·6Activa, 3·250–256

characteristics of, 3·250–252choosing and using, how to,

3·254–256for � sh skin pillows, 3·131forms of, 3·252, 253gelling with, best bets for, 4·116–117meat purees and, 3·233molding sausage with, 3·241production process for, 1·257properties and uses of, 3·253rea� aching cooked skin to meat

with, 3·122rejoining seam-boned cuts with,

3·255as sausage binder, 3·223slurry method of applying, 3·256

Activia (probiotic yogurt), 3·252additives. See also preservatives

to centrifuged liquids, 2·368fresh juice taste and color and, 2·338,

339popular perception of, 1·250public scandals involving, 1·252–254

adhesives, for breading, 3·338Adler, Alan, 4·370adrenaline, slaughterhouse practices

and, 3·34Adrià, Albert, 1·35, 2·369, 4·37Adrià, Ferran

Achatz’s meals at elBulli and, 1·38–39aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37Agar Carbonara recipe, 4·161Beet Meringue recipe, 4·295Black Olive Puree recipe, 4·230Black Sesame Rice Crisps recipe,

4·304Blood Orange Foam recipe, 4·272books by, 1·35–36, 59Cappuccino Foam recipe, 4·266as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258Cauli� ower Couscous of, 3·388Corn Foam recipe, 4·273creativity of, 1·71Crimini in Amber recipe, 4·154critics on, 1·62, 63on dining as dialogue, 1·37–38fast hot-spring quail eggs and, 4·78foams and, 4·264, 281foams pioneered by, 1·36, 4·244–

245, 254, 255Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam recipe,

4·300future of, 1·35Ham Consommé with Melon Beads

recipe, 4·48

Adrià, Ferran (continued)hired at elBulli, 1·33–34homemade sodas by, 4·239hot and cold pea soup of, 4·176Hot Apricot Marshmallow recipe,

4·293Hot Bu� er Foam recipe, 4·283Hot Egg Mayonnaise recipe, 4·227innovations of, 1·5, 36intellectually motivated cuisine of,

1·52liquid nitrogen and, 1·62, 64, 65Liquid Pimento Olive recipe, 4·193McGee on experiments by, 1·46Melon Caviar recipe, 4·189Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake

recipe, 4·294on misleading appearance of

creations, 5·60Modernist cuisine and, 1·57Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres

recipe, 4·191Osso Bucco Milanese recipe,

5·60–65Oysters with Mignone� e Air recipe,

4·265pacotized powders by, 2·407Parmesan Nuggets recipe, 4·35on potato purees, 3·296on quail eggs, cooking whole, 4·75Shell� sh Custard recipe, 4·162Soy Sauce Cloud recipe, 4·299on spheri� cation, 4·184spheri� cation developed by, 5·256spheri� ed olives of, 4·126Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso� o

recipe, 3·397Steingarten on, 1·65Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 4·173on technoemotional cuisine, 1·57� ickened Oil recipe, 4·230Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o

recipe, 4·143worldwide fame of, 1·38–40

adsorption, 2·138, 4·13Aduriz, Andoni Luis

aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37Clay Potatoes recipe, 3·398compression and, 5·285Edible Bar Soap with Honey Bubbles

recipe, 4·267foams and, 4·264Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice

and Sea Le� uce recipe, 3·149Fossilized Salsify Branch recipe,

3·399Green Pea Pods with Citrus Infusion

and Walnut Oil recipe, 4·171on hepatic steatosis and foie gras,

3·139Idiazábal Gnocchi recipe, 4·123“Into the Vegetable Garden” and,

3·294Modernist cuisine and, 1·57

Aduriz, Andoni Luis (continued)Monk� sh with Constructed Skin

recipe, 3·132Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito

Stock Veil recipe, 4·168Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 4·173Vegetable Coals recipe, 3·375Watermelon Meat recipe, 3·394

Aerated Chocolate, 4·313Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311Aerated Gruyère, 4·312Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311aerating wands, 4·391. See also handheld

whipping wands; steam wandsaeration, vacuum-assisted, 2·214Aero candy, 4·254, 312aerobic bacteria, 1·130, 135–136

vacuum packing and, 2·208aerobic endurance, slow-twitch muscle

� bers and, 3·14, 22–23aerogels, history of, 4·72Aerola� e milk frother, foam forming

with, 4·258, 260AeroPress co� ee brewer, 4·370Africa, ingredients imported to, 1·15agar

clarifying liquids with, 2·372–373for cold gels, parametric recipe for,

4·140for edible � lms, parametric recipe

for, 4·60as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215� ltration with, 2·352for � uid gels, 4·176

parametric recipe for, 4·177as foam stabilizer, 4·257French chefs’ use of, 4·128fruit juice gels and, 3·195gel � ltration with, 2·369as gelling agent, 4·68for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe

for, 4·165for hot gels, parametric recipe for,

4·160interactions with other thickeners,

4·44–45for light foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·270natural sources for, 1·253product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43for thick foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·278–279thickening sauces, jus, or glazes

with, 2·346Agar Carbonara, 4·161Aged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6aging

of co� ee beans, 4·358of Dover sole for sole meunière, 3·40of meats

enzymes and, 3·39, 41, 78

INDEX


L V I I I I N D E X

A AGING

aging (continued)holding at speci� c temperature

and, 2·247–248sous vide technique of, 2·250of wine

screw tops for wine bo� les and, 4·344

storage conditions for, 4·345–348agricultural science, food science and,

1·48agriculture, early civilization and

development of, 1·6–7AGS (Anderson, Greenville,

Spartanburg) vacuum packing system, 1·40–41

air. See also drying; relative humidityambient, for thawing, 2·263in carbon dioxide containers, 2·464as foaming gas, 4·254in ovens, heat conduction by, 2·102pressure-canning and, physics of,

2·87warm, drying with, 2·431–433water vapor in, 1·319–321, 325

L’Air du Temps, 1·70air pockets, sausage stu� ng and, 3·227,

230air pumps, aquarium

foam forming with, 4·258, 260for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241

airsbest bets for, 4·264example recipes for, 4·265parametric recipe for, 4·264

Ajinomoto Company, 1·213, 3·251Al Sorriso, 1·28Alajmo, Max and Raf, 1·70albedo, of radiation, 1·285albumin, as � ning agent, 2·360albumin powder

for bubbles, parametric recipe for, 4·264

for light foams, parametric recipe for, 4·270

for set foams, parametric recipe for, 4·288–289

for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279

alcohol (ethanol). See also spirits; speci� c alcoholic beverages

in ba� ers, 3·316co� ee brewing in, 4·371dissolving in water, 1·296distillation of, 2·384, 390drying with, 2·430extracting � avor with

best bets for, 2·326example recipes for, 2·327

fat washing using, 2·320, 321as foam inhibitor, 4·257gelatin gels with, 4·IVhydrogen bonds in water vs., 1·314laws on production of, 1·94for marinating, 3·195, 198moisture absorbed by, 2·428phase diagram of, 1·303as polar solvent, 1·330seasoning with, 2·317separating water from, 2·384, 390solubility in water of, 1·332as solvent for tastant extraction,

2·320vacuum packing and, 2·213, 214

alcohol (ethanol) (continued)vacuum pressure vs. boiling point of,

2·391alcohols, as by-products of ethanol

distillation, 2·384alcohol sanitizers, 1·200alcoholic fermentation, 3·346Alexander, Alexander, 4·40Alexander the Great, 1·12alginate. See also propylene glycol

alginate; sodium alginatefat incorporation into sausage with,


4·44–45as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127,

129natural sources for, 1·253production process for, 1·257properties and uses of, 4·42–43as sausage binder, 3·223spheri� cation using, 4·184thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·46, 47uses of, surprising, 4·127

Aligoté wine, 4·327Alinea, 1·67, 68. See also Achatz, Grantalkali earth metals, 4·126alkaline marinades, 3·190, 194–195

pH and, 3·194alkaline ramen pasta, parametric recipe

for, 3·381Alléno, Yannick, Venison Loin Rossini

recipe, 3·98allergies, to foods, 1·238–239almonds

Almond Polenta, 4·36bi� er, cyanide aroma and, 3·262Garlic Nougatine, 5·25, 29Marcona Almond Bu� er Paste,

5·281, 282Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59

almond milk, parametric recipe for, 4·56

Almond Polenta, 4·36Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39altitude

baking and, 2·113boiling point and, 1·318

aluminum cookwareconduction in, 1·280heat capacity of, 1·278

aluminum foil, in grills, 2·15l’Amador, 1·70Amador, Juan, 1·70amebiasis, 1·119, 129American Association of Wine

Economists, 4·335American BBQ plated-dish recipe,

5·66–79� e American Cheese Slice, 4·224American Dietetic Association, 1·215American Heart Association, 1·224An American Place, 1·28, 29American Spice Trade Association,

3·270American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 5·55, 57Americano espresso, 4·393amino acids

in freshly slaughtered meat, 3·34in shell� sh, 3·27

amylopectin, in starches, 4·20amylose, in starches, 4·20

anaerobic bacteriacanning and, 1·136, 138, 148characteristics of, 1·130curing salts and, 2·143facultative, 1·136, 138pasteurizing and, 2·249–250refrigeration and, 2·257sous vide cooking and, 2·206–207toxin production by, 1·135–136, 141vacuum packing and, 2·209

anaerobic endurance, fast-twitch muscle � bers and, 3·14, 22–23

analytical scales, 4·23anaphylaxis, food allergies and,

1·238–239anchovies

Bagna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230Caesar Salad, 3·373

Andalusia, Spain, Islamic courts and gastronomy of, 1·10

Anderson, Greenville, Spartanburg (AGS) vacuum packing system, 1·40–41

Anderson, Sco� , Crispy Sweetbreads recipe, 3·150

Ando, Momofuku, Chikin Ramen and Space Ramen created by, 5·247, 248

Andrés, JoséAdrià and, 1·36Carbonated Mojito Spheres recipe,

4·188critics on, 1·63Modernist cuisine and, 1·62, 67Steingarten on, 1·65Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato

Chips recipe, 4·287androstenone, tru� e smell and, 4·350Angus ca� le, 3·39animal fecal contamination, 1·116–117animal � esh, contamination by, 1·117anisakids, 1·122–123, 182, 190, 194Anisakis simplex, 1·122–123, 174Ankimo Torchon, 3·147antifoaming agents, 4·244, 247, 257antioxidants

in herbs, aging braises and pot roasts and, 2·98

in smoke, 2·143AOC (Appellation d’Origine

Contrôlée) system, for French wine production, 4·331, 332

Apicius, 1·10, 11–12on bread crumbs as thickener, 4·12history of, 1·10on reductions, 4·5, 11seasonings described in, 1·11–12

Apicius, Marcus Gavius, 1·10Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée

(AOC) system, for French wine production, 4·331, 332

Appert, Nicholas, 2·75, 84apple chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328apple cider/apple juice. See also hard

apple ciderApple Cider Consommé, 2·377Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade,

4·169Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion

and Water Chestnuts, 3·101Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20

apple cider/apple juice (continued) Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and

Cabbage Juice, 2·389apples

Bacon Chips with Bu� erscotch, Apple, and � yme, 3·189

Compressed Green Apple, 5·211, 212compressing, parametric recipe for,

3·390cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·288, 290, 291Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393dehydrating, parametric recipe for,

3·366freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

3·372Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166impregnating, parametric recipe for,

3·390Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam,

4·276preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362applejack, freeze-concentrating hard

apple cider for, 2·396apricots

Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 5·171, 173

compressing, parametric recipe for, 3·390

cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·288, 291

dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 3·366

Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293impregnating, parametric recipe for,


3·348Aprile, Claudio, 1·70aquarium air pumps and bubblers

foam forming with, 4·258, 260for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241

Arabica co� ee beans, 4·358Archaea, as domain on tree of life, 1·130L’Archestrate, 5·109Archestratos of Gela, Sicily, 1·12architecture

artistic and functional purposes of, 1·76–77

avant-garde, 1·17, 18Arcigola, 1·23Arenós, Pau, 1·37argon gas, wine preservation with,

4·347Arguinzoniz, Victor, smoked dairy

products and, 4·100Aristophanes, 1·12Arnold, David

on agar for clarifying liquids, 2·372Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 3·206Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil

recipe, 2·367on Fizz-Giz system, 3·207freeze � ltration and, 2·369French fries by, 3·322Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 4·181


I N D E X L I X

BACTERIA BArnold, David (continued)

Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, 3·324

Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, 4·97

pressure-cooked stock testing by, 2·87

on unvented pressure-cookers for stocks, 2·292

Arola, Sergi, 1·57Arola Barcelona, 1·57aromas. See also essences, aromatics

Activa bonding and, 3·252of almonds, 3·262co� ee roasting and, 4·361concentrating by evaporation and,

2·380of deep-frying oil, 2·123, 125dry-aging meat and, 3·41of fat in meat and seafood, 3·87–88fat molecules and, 3·18� ning and removal of, 2·360of lute� sk, 3·194Maillard reaction and, 3·89plant food cooking and, 3·278ripening of cured meat or seafood

and, 3·167, 173rotary evaporators and, 2·384, 390of saturated vs. unsaturated oils,

2·126of tru� es, science of, 4·350of vegetables, blanching sous vide

and, 3·293of wine, 4·348–349

aroma kit, technology of, 4·348Aroma: � e Magic of Essential Oils in

Foods and Fragrance (Pa� erson), 2·322Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 5·35, 37aromatics

converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXVIII

Maillard reaction and, 2·268seasonal mélanges with, 3·295for stocks, 2·298sublimation in frozen foods of, 2·261

Aronia de Takazawa, 1·70arrowroot, thickening with, parametric

recipe for, 4·28art, revolution in, 1·16–18L’Art de la Cuisine Française aux XIXe

Siècle (Carême, 1833–1834), 1·9, 19� e Art of Cooking (Apicius). See Apiciusartichokes

Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313Artichoke Con� t, 5·171, 172cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·292puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Sous Vide Artichoke, 5·239, 244

arti� cial � avors, popular perception of, 1·250, 252

arti� cial meat, 3·220. See also sausagesarti� cial sweeteners, organic label for,

1·247Arup, 4·246Arzak (restaurant), 2·450Arzak, Juan Mari

Egg Blossom recipe, 4·78, 80Nouvelle cuisine and individuality

of, 1·28Strawberry Milk Shake recipe, 2·473

Arzak egg blossom, parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78

Asador Etxebarri, 4·100asafetida, seasoning with, 1·11ascariasis, 1·123Ascaris lumbricoides, 1·123ascorbic acid. See vitamin Cash, hardwood charcoal vs. brique� es

and, 2·12Ashenfelter, Orley, 4·328, 329Asian cooking. See also China; Chinese

entries; Japan; Japanese entriesfusion and, 1·29

Asian � sh sauce, 3·195Asian palm civet, Kopi Luwak co� ee

and, 4·360Asian pear chips, parametric recipe for,

3·328Asian restaurants, MSG and, 1·213asparagus

Asparagus Royale, 4·94compressing, parametric recipe for,


for, 3·289, 292Green Asparagus and Morels with

Asparagus Jus, 2·341impregnating, parametric recipe for,

3·390odor of urine and, 4·350puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 5·147,

149Sous Vide White Asparagus, 5·147,

149aspics, gelatin for, 4·67aspirator vacuum system. See also rotary

evaporatorsfor concentrating � avor, 2·380,

382–383� ltering with, 2·356for Modernist kitchen, 2·284

astaxanthin, in salmon and trout, 3·93L’Astrance, 1·64Astronaut Ramen plated-dish recipe,

5·247–251astrovirus infections, 1·155Athenaeus, 1·12Atkins diet, 1·242atmospheric pressure

boiling point and, 1·318gauge pressure of pressure canners

and, 2·86–87solubility of gases in water and, 1·333

Au Cacao (Lord Chocolate), Mayan city-state of Tikal, 1·13

Auber Instruments, PID controllers of, 2·240

AustraliaEating Quality Assured system in,

3·39screw tops for wine bo� les in,

4·344–345wine innovation in, 4·331, 332

authentic recipes, Modernist focus on novelty vs., 1·58–60

Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302autoclaves

browning starch for roux with, 4·22for extracting and infusing � avors,

2·251for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for plant food cooking, 3·298

autoclaves (continued) prions and, 1·156for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 239sterilization using, 2·250venting before sealing, 2·291

Autumn Harvest Pork Roast plated-dish recipe, 5·17–23

avant-garde art movements, 1·17avocados

Avocado Puree, 5·205, 207seed distribution by, 3·265

Aztecs, gastronomy of, 1·13

BBacillus cereus

food poisoning from spores of, 1·138replication of

limits of, 1·145nisin and, 1·144–145

wine marinade with oregano and, 1·145

baconAgar Carbonara, 4·161Bacon Chip, 5·219, 220Bacon Chips with Bu� erscotch,

Apple, and � yme, 3·189Bacon Dashi, 2·308Bacon Jam, 4·229Bacon Powder Squares, 4·34Braised Bacon, 5·17, 18combi oven cooking of eggs and,

2·174–175convection baking of, 2·110cooked, fats in, 1·233Eggs Benedict, 4·86fat, fa� y acids in, 1·234infusion of, parametric recipe for,

2·310Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,

4·275Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297Spaghe� i Carbonara, 3·384USDA on nitrates and nitrites in,

3·160bacon consommé, parametric recipe for,

2·374–375bacteria, 1·130–151. See also speci� c

bacteriaaerobic, 1·130, 135–136

vacuum packing and, 2·208agar as growing medium for, 4·128anaerobic. See anaerobic bacteriacategories of, 1·130characteristics of, 1·130, 132–133chilling food and, 2·254, 257cooking cured meat or seafood and,

3·165death of, 1·148–151

pasteurization and sterilization for, 1·149

thermal death curves of, 1·150–151as foodborne pathogens, 1·108, 113,

135–141Gram-positive or Gram-negative,

1·106growth of, 1·142–147

chemicals as preservatives and, 1·144–145

on dry-aging meat, 3·41limits of, 1·145measuring, terminology of, 1·142modeling, mathematics of, 1·147

infectious, invasive, 1·134–135marinating with, 3·198o� -� avors and taints due to, 1·135quorum sensing, 1·134spoilage and, 1·133–134spores of, 1·136, 138–141stains for identi� cation of, 1·106strains of

naming of, 1·132plasmids and, 1·133

subspecies classi� cation of, 1·132


L X I N D E X

B BACTOFERM CULTURES

Bactoferm cultures, for fermented sausage, 3·246

bagels, Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130Bàgna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230baked Alaska, surprise element in, 1·37Baked Beans, 5·67, 77baked goods. See also breads; cakes

carbon dioxide as foaming gas in, 4·254

as starch-based set foams, 4·245water as secondary foaming gas in,

4·254Baked Potato Broth, 2·309Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193baker’s percentage, for scaling recipes,

1·95–97baking, 2·100–113

altitude and, 2·113basting and, physics of, 2·103ceramic cookware for, 1·277in combi ovens, 2·168consistent

strategies for, 2·112temperature control and, 2·111

convection. See convection baking; convection ovens

of crust, 2·108deep-frying compared to, 2·116–117derivation of term, 2·101drying stages in, 2·106–108heat � ow simulation in roasting vs.,

2·33humidity and, 2·102ovens for. See combi ovens;

convection ovens; ovens; Rational combi ovens; water-vapor ovens; wood-� red ovens

preheating for, 2·102–103professionalization of, 1·7radiant heat and, 2·110–111real temperature in, 2·103, 106temperature measurement during,

2·108turkey, cutaway illustration of,

2·104–105baking powder, production process for,

1·255baking soda, production process for,

1·255, 256Bakke, Kent, 4·398ball mills, for dry-grinding, 2·401ballistic gelatin, 4·68bamboo shoots

cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289

Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 5·167, 169

bananasBanana Yogurt, 5·98cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·288, 290freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

3·372Hot Banana Gel, 4·166ripening of, 3·283

Bancro� , Wilder Dwight, 4·203Bancro� ’s rule, science of, 4·203Bandel, Horst, Rye Bread recipe, 5·59bang-bang controllers, 2·230–231Banyuls Glaze, 5·17, 19bao technique, for stir-frying with woks,

2·54–55

barbecueAmerican-style, 2·143, 148, 3·211,

361regional specialties in, 3·218–219sauces for. See barbecue saucessous vide, 3·216–217

barbecue saucesCentrifuged BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 67, 71East Texas BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 69House BBQ Sauce, 4·49, 5·67Kansas City BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 68Kentucky BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71Memphis BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70North Carolina (Eastern Region)

BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70North Carolina (Lexington-Style)

BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71South Carolina BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70

barbecue stall, chemistry of, 3·212Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel,

4·283Barbot, Pascal

Eggless Citrus Curd recipe, 4·234Foie Gras and Bu� on Mushroom

Tart recipe, 3·148Modernist cuisine and, 1·64

barding, 3·84Barham, Peter

Blake, Blumenthal and, 1·51Blumenthal and, 1·47, 50books by, 1·44Erice Conferences and, 1·45liquid nitrogen ice cream and,

1·61–62on molecular gastronomy, 1·48

barleypu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129

Barnes, H. M., 3·92Bartolo� a, Paul, 1·69baseball glove cut, from pork shoulder,

3·48, 49Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233basting, physics of, 2·103Batali, Armandion, braised ox heart

sandwiches by, 3·142Batali, Mario, Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-

Style recipe, 3·113batch size, consistent baking and, 2·111,

112bathrooms, personal hygiene and, 1·196ba� er-frying

example recipes for, 3·334–337parametric recipe for, 3·332–333

ba� ersbest bets for, 3·333for deep-frying, 2·122, 127for frying, breading vs., 3·316parametric recipe for, 3·333Siphoned Tempura Ba� er, 5·144

bay leaf extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326

Bazaar, 1·67BBQ Caramels, 4·62bean sprouts

preserving, parametric recipe for, 3·348

Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso� o, 3·397


beans. See also speci� c types of beans� ours milled from, 3·376pressure-cooking, 3·298water for cooking, 3·276, 278

bear meat, Trichinella and, 1·120, 122, 179

beaver fever, 1·129Beck, Heinz, Nouvelle cuisine and,

1·28–29beech mushrooms

Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, 5·55, 58


French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93beef. See also ca� le; oxtail; steaks

Australian Eating Quality Assured grading system for, 3·39

Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66Beef Brisket, 5·67, 79Beef Shank Rille� e, 5·49, 52Beef Short Ribs, 5·67, 79Braised Short Ribs, 5·43, 44Brown Beef Stock, 2·301cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180cooking

boiling steak and, 3·72–75in combi oven, 2·180cooking times for, 1·121FDA Food Code on cooking of

steaks and, 1·174FDA on cooking pork vs. beef and,

1·170–171ideal temperature for, 3·89sous vide, parametric recipes for,

3·96, 109Crispy Beef Strands, 5·43, 44Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola

Style,” 3·185curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172Fast Cured Pepperoni, 3·247FDA Food Code and

on cooking of steaks, 1·174on steaks vs. roasts, 1·187on whole roast, 1·182–183

Frankfurters, 3·242Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules,


2·451Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65hot-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210innards of. See innardsKalbi Flank Steak, 3·199mad cow disease and, 1·156, 157,

158, 159, 160Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43muscles in, 3·15, 5·7needled, E. coli outbreak in, 1·176Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52primal cuts of, 3·44Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249Rare Flatiron Steak, 5·49, 50Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard

Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97roast, Maillard reaction and, 3·89Salmonella time and temperature

curve for, 1·187Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak, 5·5, 7

beef (continued)tapeworms and, 1·124tenderloin, cooking sous vide, 2·248Wagyu. See Wagyu beefwhole roast, FDA Food Code on,

1·182–183beef cheeks

American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 5·55, 57

Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213breeds and, 5·55, 57

beef entrecôte, 1·25beef fat, Frankfurters, 3·242beef � atiron steak, seam cu� ing of, 3·47beef juice

parametric recipe for, 2·344–345Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349

beef jusAged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,

4·54parametric recipe for, 2·344–345Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349

beef knuckles, Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307Beef Rib Steak plated-dish recipe, 5·5–9Beef Royal, Blumenthal’s re-creation of,

1·51Beef Shank Rille� e, 5·49, 52Beef Short Ribs, 5·67, 79beef stock, parametric recipe for,

2·296–298beef tallow, chemistry of, 2·126Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 4·54beef tongue

brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·146beer

Cheddar Soup, 4·225foaming head on, 4·250–251,

254–255, 256freeze concentration of, 2·396Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145ice, freeze concentration of, 2·396nucleation sites etched on glass for,

4·251seasoning with, 2·317

beer can chicken, science of, 2·109Beet Flexicurd, 4·219Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233Beet Meringue, 4·295beets

aroma of, 5·182Beet Flexicurd, 4·219Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233Beet Meringue, 4·295Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289dehydrating, parametric recipe for,

3·366Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and

Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Sous Vide Baby Beet, 5·181, 183Sous Vide Golden Beets, 5·233, 235

beignetsBeignet of Sauce Ravigote, 5·49, 51Oyster Beignet, 5·25, 28Pork Tro� er Beignet, 5·35, 38Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174


I N D E X L X I

BBOILING POINT

beignets (continued) Zucchini Blossom Beignet, 5·53, 151

Beijing National Aquatics Center, Water Cube at, 4·246

Belgian endive, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289

bell peppersCompressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,

5·55, 58preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57

bentonite � ning, 2·352, 358Berasategui, Martín

on cooking small � sh with crispy skin, 3·130

Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk recipe, 3·103

Modernist cuisine and, 1·57bergamot

Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 3·103

Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon, 4·274

Berkel, Wilhelm van, 3·44Le Bernardin, 1·73Best Bets. See list of Parametric Recipe

Tables, LVbeta-carotene, health bene� ts of, 1·235beurre blanc

emulsi� ers for, 4·204, 214heat-stable, 4·218

beurre noirBlack Bu� er Emulsion, 5·157, 158how to make, 4·213

beurre noise� e. See also brown bu� er consommé; brown bu� er extract

Brown Bu� er Fumet, 5·157, 158Brown Bu� er-Poached Green Garlic,

5·229, 230how to make, 4·213Passion Fruit Brown Bu� er Fluid

Gel, 5·181, 182Bezzera, Luigi, 4·372bigeye tuna, as alternative to blue� n,

3·55Bilet, Maxime, 1·85Bimbo Bakeries USA, 1·76Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber

Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203

Biot, Jean-Baptiste, 2·117Biot number, 2·117Birdseye, Clarence, 1·306–307

food science and, 1·24bis-2-methyl-3-furyl-disul� de, 3·89biscuits, Bu� ermilk Biscuits, 5·67, 77Bismarck, O� o von, 3·220bisphenol A (BPA), plastic storage

containers and, 2·207bit-and-plate grinders, for meat, 3·231,

233bi� ers, 2·320bi� er � avors, 5·226

co� ee brewing and, 4·364black bu� er

Black Bu� er Emulsion, 5·157, 158how to make, 4·213

Black Cod “Frédy Girardet” plated-dish recipe, 5·170–173

Black Olive Oil, 5·193, 195Black Olive Puree, 4·230

black pepper infusion, parametric recipe for, 2·310

Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304black tea infusion, parametric recipe for,

2·310Black Tru� e Concentrate, 2·427, 5·216blackberries


Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340blackbodies

adding cream to co� ee and, 1·289characteristics of, 1·285radiation by, 1·285

charcoal grills and, 2·10–11wavelengths and, 1·287

black-eyed peas, Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 5·94

Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 3·183

blade tenderizing, 3·51. See also Jaccard tenderizers

Blake, Tonyon aroma compounds from Maillard

reaction, 3·89Blumenthal and, 1·51Erice Conferences and, 1·45

Blanc, Georges, 1·34 Blanc, Raymond

Erice Conferences and, 1·45Nouvelle cuisine in the U.K. and,

1·28blanching

boiling and, 2·63of bones for stock, 2·292browning reaction in plants and,

3·283before cooking, 2·269before deep-frying, 2·125drying with warm air and, 2·433extended and simpli� ed 6D

Salmonella reduction guidelines for, 1·190

food safety and, 1·191of fruits, 2·269of garlic, 5·26hot-packing for canning and, 2·77juice extraction and, 2·239sous vide

best bets for, 3·293how to, 3·293thermophilic pathogens and, 2·206

for sous vide cooking, 2·267with steam, 2·70of vegetables, 2·214, 269water baths and, multiple, 2·247water baths, multiple, and, 2·249

blancmange, Steamed Blancmange, 4·296

Blanque� e de Veau plated-dish recipe, 5·31–33

blast chillerscrisping skin with, 3·123for Modernist kitchen, 2·285pacotizing and, 2·407pros and cons of, 2·255for quick chilling, 1·206, 2·256

blast freezers, 1·307, 310, 2·259bleach and water solution

drying with warm air and, 2·433for kitchen cleansing, 1·200, 204

blenderscommercial

dispersing thickeners with, 4·24for pureeing, 2·400

emulsifying with, 4·206, 208foam forming with, 4·252, 258handheld. See handheld blendersheat generated in, 1·274, 2·398, 4·206household, for pastes, powders, or

purees, 2·400hydration of ion-coagulated gels

with, 4·124hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38,

124immersion. See handheld blendersfor Modernist kitchen, 2·287for raw food, 3·269for shearing gels into � uids, 4·176wet-grinding with, 2·412–413for wine, hyperdecanting, 4·343

blogs, Modernist, 1·59–60, 66, 67blonding, of espresso shot, 4·388blood

cooking with, 3·144as sausage binder, 3·223viscosity of, 4·6

blood orangesBlood Orange Foam, 4·272Blood Orange Sabayon, 5·147, 148Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice,

2·443blood pressure, salt and, 1·234, 236–237blood sausage (pudding)

history of, 3·220parametric recipe for, 3·238–239,

5·239bloodline, in � sh, 3·21, 22Bloom, measure of gel rigidity, 4·68, VBloom, Oscar, 4·68Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172blow torching and blowtorches

a� er sous vide cooking, 2·274–275broiling vs., 2·21for � ash-cooking sushi, 3·61how not to use, 2·21for Modernist kitchen, 2·286

blowing on hot foodphase change and, 1·290physics of, 1·288

Blue Sky Creamery, 1·62–63blueberries, heat-treating, parametric

recipe for, 3·359blue� n tuna

about, 5·176alternatives to, 3·55toro of, from belly, 3·84

Blumenthal, HestonAdrià and, 1·39Aerated Chocolate recipe, 4·313British bangers and, 3·236–237Citrus Spice recipe, 2·404cold gels and, 4·140Crispy Halibut Cheek recipe,

3·334–335critics on, 1·62Cryopoached Dill Meringue recipe,

5·165Cryopoached Green Tea Sour recipe,

4·291on dehydrating fruits and vegetables,

3·366edible � lms used by, 4·60Edible Wrappers recipe, 4·62

Blumenthal, Heston (continued)Erice Conferences and, 1·45, 46, 47Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel recipe, 4·183food science and, 1·49–50freeze � ltration and, 2·369on gazpacho � avor, 5·278Hot and Cold Tea recipe, 4·176, 182Hot Blood Pudding Custard recipe,

4·221Lemon Strips recipe, 4·61liquid nitrogen and, 1·63, 65“mackerel invertebrate” dish by,

3·252Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin

recipe, 4·175“Marmite broth” and, 2·304–305Microwave-Fried Parsley recipe,

3·312Mock Turtle Soup recipe, 2·394norovirus outbreak and, 1·155Onion Fluid Gel recipe, 4·183Passion Fruit Jelly recipe, 4·180as perfectionist and Modernist

enthusiast, 1·50–51Pommes Pont-Neuf recipe, 3·323Potato Puree recipe, 3·296, 297rotary evaporation and, 2·388Salmon Poached in Licorice recipe,

4·155science applied to food by, 1·5, 52stock preparation by, 2·283Tomato Con� t recipe, 5·62Triple-Cooked Chips of, 3·322vacuum-drying by, 2·436

Blumenthal, Michael, 2·123BMI (body mass index), 1·240, 244Bo Innovation, 1·70boar, wild

E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 and, 1·172

Trichinella and, 1·120, 122Bocuse, Paul, 1·24, 26

sous vide cooking and, 1·42body mass index (BMI), 1·240, 244Boeuf in Gelée, 4·163Boiardi, E� ore, innovations of, 1·21, 31boiling, 2·62–69. See also boiling point;

boiling zone; boiling-water canning; poaching

characteristics of, 1·315, 317–319cutaway illustration of, 2·64–65“� xing” color with, chemistry of,

2·63, 66� ash, 1·317Giardia oocysts and, 1·129heat transfer with, 2·63of liquid nitrogen, science of, 2·457under pressure, 2·295pressure cooking and, 2·291rolling, blanching using steam vs.,

2·267stages of physics of, 1·316of steak, 3·72–75steaming vs., 1·319, 2·70, 72–73thick or thin sauces and, 2·68–69vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215of water, hydrogen bonds and, 1·298water temperature and, 1·318

boiling pointelevation of, 1·318in phase diagrams, 1·302–303vacuum pressure for water or ethanol

vs., 2·391


L X I I I N D E X

BOILING POINTBboiling point (continued)

of waterrelative humidity and, 2·163vacuum pressure vs., 2·391

boiling zonebaking and, 2·107–108convection baking and, 2·110in steak frying, 3·75

boiling-water canning, 2·76–83cutaway illustration of, 2·82–83food acidity issues in, 2·76packing food in canning jars for, 2·78raw packing or hot-packing, 2·77sterilization and, 2·76sterilizing acidic canned foods for,

2·81USDA guidelines for, 2·79–80

bok choy, Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313Boltzmann, Ludwig, 1·265Bond’s law, 2·401Bone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63bones

blanching, for stock, 2·292cooking of, 3·143–144sous vide cooking and, 2·207for stocks, 2·288

bonito, Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock Veil, 4·168

Bonnefons, Nicolas de, 1·9, 19books, water-soaked, freeze-drying for

conservation of, 2·444Bordeaux, France

microoxygenation by winemakers in, 4·331

Napoleon III on classi� cation of wines from, 4·331–332

wine storage in, 4·346Bordeaux Equation, science of, 4·328Boring, Edwin, 4·341Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235Bose-Einstein condensate, 1·301Bosse, Chris, 4·246bo� arga. See also caviar; � sh roe

Sea Urchin Bo� arga, 3·186, 5·225, 226

bo� le size, wine storage and, 4·346bo� led water, as pure water, 1·335bo� omless porta� lters, 4·385. See also

crotchless porta� ltersBo� ura, Massimo, 1·70botulism

common misconceptions about, 1·118

food poisoning from spores and, 1·138–139

nitrates or nitrites as protection from, 3·165

sous vide cooking and, 2·206boudin blanc

Boudin Blanc, 3·243parametric recipe for, 3·238–239

Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 5·125, 127Boudin Noir Custard, 5·125, 127Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308Bouley, David

on Modernist cuisine in Spain, 1·57New International cuisine and, 1·30Oxtail Consommé and, 2·376

Boulud, DanielBoeuf in Gelée and, 4·163hamburger and, 5·11on McGee’s On Food and Cooking, 1·44New International cuisine and, 1·30

bound water, dehydration and, 1·321boundary layer

convection cooking and, 1·283, 2·108, 110

drying and, 2·431evaporation and, 1·288

bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), 1·156, 157–159, 160

bowl choppers, 3·233. See also Bu� alo choppers

BPA (bisphenol A), plastic storage containers and, 2·207

Bradbury, Ray, 2·137Bradley smokers, 2·147Brahman ca� le, calpastatin in Wagyu

beef vs., 3·76brain, prion diseases and, 1·156–157Braised Bacon, 5·17, 18Braised Lamb Shoulder, 5·81, 83Braised Napa Cabbage, 5·109, 111Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash,

5·60, 65Braised Sauerkraut, 5·35, 39Braised Short Ribs, 5·43, 44Braised Short Ribs plated-dish recipe,

5·42–47Braised Turnips with Sa� ron, 5·121, 123Braised Veal Foreshank, 5·60, 62braising

aging and, chemistry of, 2·98derivation of term, 2·93holding at speci� c temperature in,

2·247of meat, how to, 2·99pot-roasting or stewing vs., 2·93stewing as, 2·96–98

Bras, MichelAdrià and, 1·34Black Olive Oil recipe, 5·195chocolate cake with liquid center by,

1·15Le Gargouillou recipe, 1·40, 3·294–295garlic mayonnaise of, 4·226Licorice Powder recipe, 2·405liquid nitrogen and, 1·62, 65Molasses Bu� er recipe, 2·331Nouvelle cuisine and individuality

of, 1·27, 39–40So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion

recipe, 4·227sous vide cooking and, 1·42

bratwurst, parametric recipe for, 3·238–239

Bratzler, L. J., 3·77bread crumbs

in sausage, 3·226as thickening agent, 4·12

bread pudding, Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 5·125, 127

breadingexample recipes for, 3·340–343for frying

ba� ers vs., 3·316of gizzards, 3·142

parametric recipe for, 3·338–339pork-rind, 3·122–123sieving particles for, 2·353skin as, 3·118

breads. See also bread crumbs; briocheCorn Bread, 5·67, 76at elBulli, Adrià on, 1·34–35gel-like properties of, 3·376Hamburger Buns, 5·11, 13

breads (continued) historical development of, 1·7Moroccan Batbout Flat Bread, 5·135,

139New American cuisine and, 1·28–29parathas as, 5·92Rye Bread, 5·55, 59stale

chemistry of rescuing, 1·320starch granules and, 3·280

as starch-based set foam, 4·245water as secondary foaming gas in,

4·254white, industrial production of,

4·252, 254� e Breakfast Egg plated-dish recipe,

5·211–213breakfast-style sausage, parametric

recipe for, 3·236–237breast cancer, red meat and, 1·220Bre� anomyces (bre� ), wine aroma and,

4·350brevis mortis, slaughter and, 3·32brewing

of co� ee, 4·364, 366–370control chart for, how to use,

4·366–367of espresso, choosing temperature

for, 4·385by hunter-gatherers, 1·6professionalization of, 1·7

Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 1·9brines. See also brining

basic, parametric recipe for, 3·168best bets for, 3·168parametric recipe for, 3·168–172reusing, food safety and, 3·164

brining, 3·152–158accelerating

how to, 3·174–175strategies for, 3·166–167

acidic marinades vs., 3·193best bets for, 3·168, 172color of meat and, 5·102equilibrium method for, 3·158

how to, 3·170–171functional ingredients for, 3·155goal for, 3·154high-concentration method for,

3·171Maillard reaction and, 3·91with other salts, chemistry of, 3·157process of, 3·152, 156, 158time and salt concentration for,

3·154of vegetables with salt, 3·346

briocheBrioche Toast, 5·219, 221Caesar Salad, 3·373Country Bread Crisps, 5·85, 86

brique� es, hardwood charcoal vs., 2·12British Airways, sous vide cooking and,

1·41British bangers, parametric recipe for,

3·236–237British thermal units (BTUs)

calculating grill power using, 2·10de� nition of, 1·272for wok burners, 2·52

bri� leness, gel selection and, 4·73broccoli

Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 2·426

broccoli (continued)Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli,

2·181puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425steamed in combi oven, 2·181

La Broche, 1·57Brochet, Frédéric, 4·334–335, 340Brock, Sean

food inspectors and, 1·83Modernist cuisine and, 1·67Shrimp and Grits recipe, 3·377

Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Bu� er, 4·220

broilersfor � ash-cooking sushi, 3·61for Modernist kitchen, 2·287portable, how not to use blowtorch

as, 2·21radiant heat from, 1·277, 284, 285rules of thumb for, 2·18–20sweet zone of, calculating, 2·22–23types and features of, 2·20–22

broiling, 2·18–27a� er cooking sous vide, 2·272–273equipment for, 2·20–22. See also

broilersGirardet method for poaching and,

2·24–25heat intensity and, 2·22–23pizzas, 2·26–27rules of thumb for, 2·18–20

bromelain, 2·335, 3·195, 5·6bromophenols, 3·88broths

Bacon Dashi, 2·308Baked Potato Broth, 2·309Borscht Broth, 5·233, 235Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308concentrating � avor of, 2·379, 380Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay

Leaf, 5·109, 110example recipes for, 2·303–309,


2·451Goulash Broth, 5·55, 56Ham Broth, 2·306Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197Laksa Broth, 2·307Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307parametric recipe for, 2·304–305Tom Yum Broth, 2·309vacuum � ltering of, 2·354

Brown, Robert, 1·265Brown Beef Stock, 2·301brown bu� er

Brown Bu� er Fumet, 5·157, 158Brown Bu� er-Poached Green Garlic,

5·229, 230how to make, 4·213Passion Fruit Brown Bu� er Fluid

Gel, 5·181, 182brown bu� er consommé, parametric

recipe for, 2·374–375brown bu� er extract, parametric recipe

for, 2·326brown chicken jus, parametric recipe

for, 2·344–345Brown Veal Stock, 2·300Brownian motion, 1·265


I N D E X L X I I I

CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP Cbrowning

in combi oven, convection mode for, 2·168

microwave ovens and, 2·189modern methods of braising and, 2·98

browning reaction, 3·89. See also Maillard reaction

in plant foods, 3·283in plant juices, 2·338

Brugués, Salvador, 1·58Bruni, Frank, 1·63Brussels sprouts, Deep-Fried Brussels

Sprouts, 3·321BSE. See bovine spongiform

encephalopathyBTUs (British thermal units)

calculating grill power using, 2·10de� nition of, 1·272for wok burners, 2·52

bubblers, aquariumfoam forming with, 4·258, 260for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241

bubblesbest bets for, 4·264boiling water and, 1·315, 317–318example recipes for, 4·267–269as gas released from heating water,

4·252geometry of, 4·246parametric recipe for, 4·264in steamed milk for espresso, 4·392steaming and, 2·71for thickening, 4·19in whipped cream, 4·256

Büchi Labortechnik, 2·386–387, 391Büchner, Ernst, 2·354Büchner funnel, 2·354, 356Buckwheat Dough, 5·233, 234buckwheat pasta, parametric recipe for,

3·381Buckwheat Pelmeni, 5·233, 237Buddha’s hand citron

Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·291distillation of, 2·388

Bu� alo choppers, for emulsifying sausage, 3·225, 230, 233

bu� ering, 2·315Bulgogi Glaze, 5·285, 287bulk phase, in emulsions. See

continuous phasebulking agents, spray-dried powders

and, 2·442Buon Vino pressure � lters

characteristics of, 2·358clarifying juice with, how to, 2·355

Burke, Sam Fahey, sour rhubarb sorbet and, 5·277

Burki� , Denis P., 1·214–215, 218Burki� ’s lymphoma, 1·214Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121burners

choosing, 2·41–43conduction and, 1·277gas, 1·274for griddles, 2·40–41induction, 1·274for panfrying, 2·41–43for stir-frying, 2·48, 52, 56–57wok, 2·52, 56–57, 287

burr grindersdry-grinding with, 2·401–402

burr grinders (continued)quality of, co� ee grind and, 4·378technology of, 4·376

butchering, 3·44–50dissecting pork shoulder a� er,

3·48–49seam cu� ing and, 3·45–47slicing and, 3·47, 50

bu� er. See also bu� erscarotenoid pigments and, 3·92clari� ed

browned solids from, 4·212how to make, 4·213

emulsions and, 4·218–220as foaming agent, 4·251for froths, parametric recipe for,

4·264health risks of margarine vs., 1·231Hot Bu� er Foam, 4·283organic food movement perception

of, 1·253smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100as so� foam, 4·247

bu� er extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326

bu� erfat, separating from cream, 2·366, 368

bu� er� y � llet, of � sh, 3·52bu� ermilk

Bu� ermilk Biscuits, 5·67, 77for marinating, 3·198parametric recipe for, 4·56Spray-Dried Bu� ermilk, 2·443

bu� ernut squashBraised Pine Nuts with Winter

Squash, 5·60, 65cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

3·372Pickled Bu� ernut Squash, 5·60, 64Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63

bu� ersbeurre blanc and. See beurre blancblack. See black bu� erBroiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier

Bu� er, 4·220brown. See brown bu� erCentrifuged Carotene Bu� er, 2·365,

5·185Co� ee Bu� er, 5·211, 212Condrieu Bu� er, 5·171, 172Marcona Almond Bu� er Paste,

5·281, 282Molasses Bu� er, 2·331Passion Fruit Brown Bu� er Fluid

Gel, 5·181, 182Sea Urchin Bu� er, 5·225, 227Shell� sh Bu� er, 2·329Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219Whipped Bu� er, 4·286

bu� on mushroomsBoudin Blanc, 3·243Foie Gras and Bu� on Mushroom

Tart, 3·148

Ccabbage. See also green cabbage; Napa

cabbage; red cabbage; sauerkraut; savoy cabbage; white cabbage



Caesar Salad, 3·373café au lait, 4·393ca� è breve, 4·393ca� è crema, 4·379ca� è la� e

as art form, 4·391–393composition of, 4·393milk foam in, 4·244pa� erns in, how to make, 4·394–395

ca� è mocha, 4·393ca� eine

in deca� einated co� ee, 4·363digestion of, 4·363

cakeschocolate, with liquid center,

evolution of, 1·15–16Green Tea Cake, 4·292Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,

4·294Le Calandre, 1·70calcium

in selected foods, 4·VIIsources of, for ion-coagulation, 4·129

calcium chloridein blanching water, 2·125for brining or curing, 3·157, 158meat marinade containing, 3·76, 198product guide for, 4·II–IIIas salt, 4·126

calcium gluconatefor cold gels, parametric recipe for,

4·140product guide for, 4·II–III

calcium ionsas hydrocolloid coagulant, 4·70, 126spheri� cation and, 4·184

calcium lactateproduct guide for, 4·II–IIIfor spheri� cation, parametric recipe

for, 4·187California

State Fair wine competition in, 4·338–339

wine innovation in, 4·331, 332California Department of Health

Services, E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 and, 1·172

calories, 1·272calpains

aging meats and, 3·39meat tenderness and, 3·76reaction rates of, temperature and,

3·78yogurt or bu� ermilk marinades and,

3·198calpastatin, meat tenderness and, 3·76Cameroon, carbon dioxide eruption

from Lake Nyos in, 2·466campylobacter, 1·117Campylobacter jejuni, 1·134, 145Can Fabes, 1·63, 258. See also

Santamaria, Santi

can openers, invention of, 2·75Canadian bacon, Eggs Benedict, 4·86Canard Apicius, 5·121cancer. See also carcinogens

of breast, red meat and, 1·220colorectal, dietary � ber and,

1·214–217International Agency for Research

on Cancer and, 1·220Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 5·94Candied Pu� ed Oats, 5·125, 128candlenuts, Roasted Candlenuts, 5·175,

177candling, for anisakid detection, 1·123candying fruits, with sugar, 3·346cannibalism, kuru and, 1·159canning, 2·74–91

anaerobic bacteria and, 1·136, 138boiling-water method of. See boiling-

water canningfrigi-canning and, 2·84–85of ham, 1·21heating requirements and duration

for, 2·79history of, 2·75how to pack food in jars for, 2·78packaging with care for, 2·77of plant foods, 3·344with pressure. See pressure-canningsous vide and, 2·204–205

canning industry, bacteria reduction standards of, 1·148

canola oil, chemistry of, 2·126cantaloupes

Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·288Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177Cantu, Homaro

on carbonated grapes, 2·469edible � lms of, 4·60edible � lms used by, 4·60Modernist cuisine and, 1·67patents applied for, 1·71, 72on Postmodern cuisine, 1·57on shucking oysters with liquid

nitrogen, 2·458Tro� er and, 1·69

Capel, José Carlos, 1·59Caper Droplets, 5·157, 159Caplan, Frieda, 1·15capon broth, parametric recipe for,

2·304–305cappuccino

Cappuccino Foam, 4·266composition of, 4·393how to make pa� erns in, 4·394–395Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,

4·275perfect pour for, 4·392steaming milk for, 4·391

capsaicinbiology of, 3·271hotness perception and, 3·270purging bivalves and, 5·231

capsids, of viruses, 1·152capsule systems, for espresso,

technology of, 4·400caramelization

covered sautéing and, 2·58pressure-cooking and, 3·298smoking and, 2·135

Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301


L X I V I N D E X

CARAMELIZED COCONUT CREAMCCaramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 5·25, 28Carasso, Daniel, 1·20–21carbohydrates

diets low in, 1·242in fermented sausage, 3·246

carbon dioxide (CO2)for carbonating drinks, 1·334, 4·254chemical formula for, 2·464co� ee roasting and, 4·358containers and, air in head space of,

2·464crema on espresso and, 4·384critical point for, 1·328digestion of, 2·464as dry ice, 2·458, 464. See also dry iceeruption of Lake Nyos, Cameroon

and, 2·466as foaming gas, 4·254–255solubility in water, 1·330, 332, 4·243supercritical, deca� einated co� ee

and, 4·363supercritical � uid extraction and,

2·320taste of, 4·256triple point for, 1·328tru� es and, preserving freshness

with, 2·470for whipping siphons, 4·256

carbon � ltration, for purifying water, 1·335

carbon monoxide (CO), to bloom myoglobin in meat, 3·95

carbonated drinks, carbon dioxide for, 1·334, 4·254

Carbonated Golden Raisins, 5·157, 159Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4·188carbonation

characteristics of, 4·464equipment for, 2·286example recipes for, 2·472–473, 5·11� zziness taste and, science of, 2·465of fruit, 1·69, 2·469, 472of liquids

pacotizing and, 2·407techniques for, 2·464temperature and, 2·464tips for, 2·468

Perlini system for, 4·347physics of, 1·334taste, science of, 2·465wine pairing and, 4·352

carbonyls, in smoking wood, 2·135, 3·211

carboxyl methylcellulose (CMC)interactions with other thickeners,

4·44–45product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43

carcinogensfood additives as, 1·252grilled meat and � sh and, 1·220in smoke, liquid smoke for avoiding,

2·149smoked food and, 2·143

Carême, Antoninaspics of, 4·68as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9culinary rules and codes of, 1·5French cuisine and, 1·19innovations of, 1·20meat embedded in gelatin by, 3·250

Carl G. Sontheimer Prize for Excellence in Innovation and Creativity in Design, at M.I.T., 2·412

Carlson, Michael, 1·69Carmona, John Paul, Beef Cheek

Pastrami recipe, 3·213carotenoid pigments, 3·30, 92, 93carrageenan

dairy gel formation with, 4·102as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215as foam stabilizer, 4·257in heavy cream, 4·102iota. See iota carrageenankappa. See kappa carrageenanlambda. See lambda carrageenannatural sources for, 1·253product guide for, 4·II–IIIproduction process for, 1·257spheri� cation using, 4·184uses of, 4·128

Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164carrot chips, parametric recipe for,

3·328carrot tops, Microwave-Fried Parsley

and Carrot Tops, 5·49, 53carrots

bene� ts of cooking, 3·267Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao,

5·94Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164Centrifuged Carotene Bu� er, 2·365,


for, 3·289, 292Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

3·372Glazed Carrot, 5·185, 186Glazed White Carrot, 5·31, 32Nukazuke, 3·354preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53

Carsberg, Sco� Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade

recipe, 4·169Pecorino with Tru� e Honey on

Cedar recipe, 4·101carvacrol, as antimicrobial compound,

1·145case-control studies, of nutrition, 1·220case-hardening, as form of drying,

2·428casein

as � ning agent, 2·360in homogenized cream, 2·360, 368as surfactant, 4·202

cashewsCashew Halvah, 5·93Green Mango and Cashew Salad,

5·167, 169casing, sausage, 3·226, 227cassava

� our milled from, 3·376toxins in, 3·262Vegetable Coals, 3·395

Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn) plated-dish recipe, 5·81–84

Cassoulet Toulousain (Spring) plated-dish recipe, 5·85–87

cast iron cookware, 1·278, 280cats

spongiform encephalopathy of, 1·159Toxoplasma gondii and, 1·126–127

catalysis, 2·20catalysts, 2·21, 335catalytic gas broilers, 2·20–21Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us

Human (Wrangham), 1·6, 3·269cathepsins, 3·39, 76, 78ca� le. See also beef; oxtail; veal

E. coli O157:H7 andtransmission of, 1·118–119, 172vaccinations for, 1·145

prion diseases in, 1·158scrapie in, 1·158sheep liver � uke and, 1·123tapeworms and, 1·124

cauli� owerCauli� ower Couscous, 3·388Cauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89Cauli� ower Foam, 5·281, 283Cauli� ower Panna Co� a, 4·142Deep-Fried Cauli� ower, 5·281, 283dehydrating, parametric recipe for,


3·348puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425

Cava wine, Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277

caviarcold-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210Melon Caviar, 4·189Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174

cavitationcollapse, in boiling, 1·317by high-pressure homogenizers,

2·414, 415CDC. See U.S. Centers for Disease

Control and PreventionCDS/NPOS notation system for

cooking, 1·47, 48celebrity chefs, 1·19, 50, 60. See also

individual chefs’ namesNew American cuisine and, 1·29New International cuisine and, 1·31Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26

celery, compressing and impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390

celery rootCelery Root Mousseline, 2·427,


for, 3·289Pickled Celery Root, 5·126, 133puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53

celery root chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328

Celery Root Mousseline, 2·427, 5·126celiac disease, gluten intolerance and,

1·239El Celler de Can Roca, 1·58cellulose

gels not formed from, 4·124for low-fat sausage tenderness,

3·224cellulose gum LV, thickening with,

parametric recipe for, 4·46, 47

cellulose gumsdispersion and hydration of, 4·127gelling agents from, 4·126parametric recipe for, 4·170–171properties and applications of, 4·170

cellulose-based hydrocolloids, as thickeners, 4·19

Celsius, Anders, 1·266Celsius temperature scale, 1·266, 285Centers for Disease Control and

Prevention. See U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention

centipoise (cP), 4·6Centre de Recherche et d’Études pour

l’Alimentation (CREA), 1·43centrifugal-style juicers, 2·332, 334Centrifuged BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 67, 71Centrifuged Carotene Bu� er, 2·365,

5·185Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil,

2·367centrifuges, 2·360–368

balancing, how to, 2·363for cholesterol tests, 1·226–227for � ltering, 2·351, 352, 360, 368Genevac Rocket Evaporator as,

2·391–395for Modernist kitchen, 2·284safety of, 2·361separating bu� erfat from cream

with, 2·366for separating emulsions, 4·210, 212separating liquids with, 2·364types of, 2·362

centrifuging, example recipes for, 2·365–367, 5·5, 60, 185

century eggCentury Egg, 4·83parametric recipe for, 4·82

cephalopods. See also octopus; squidbiology of, 3·24

ceramic cookware, conductivity and, 1·277

ceramic plates, in gas grills, 2·11Certi� ed Angus Beef, 3·39cestodes

contamination by, 1·120destruction of, 1·123types of, 1·124

cevicheacidic marinades for, 3·193, 194Fluke Ceviche, 3·203

CFUs (colony-forming units), 1·142CGS (centimeter, gram, second) units,

1·272Chaat Masala, 5·281, 282chamber sealers, 2·214–221. See also

vacuum chambersadvantages of, 2·214boiling inside, damage and, 2·215common problems with, 2·220–221gas-� ushing, tru� e storage with,

2·471impulse sealers and, 2·225for Modernist kitchen, 2·284optional features of, 2·216–217for plant food cooking, 3·286vacuum packing with, 2·209, 218,

219Chamberlin, Walter, 1·60


I N D E X L X V

CHOCOLATE WATER CChampagne

Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183foaming head on, 4·254nucleation sites etched on glass for,

4·251storage of, 4·346, 347, 348

“Champagne grapes,” Cantu on, 2·469Champion-style juicers, 2·332, 334Chang, David

Bacon Dashi recipe, 2·308Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts recipe,

3·321Kimchi recipe, 3·352Shaved Foie Gras recipe, 3·177Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca

recipe, 4·285Chantecler, 1·34chanterelles, Mushroom Puree, 5·215,

216chao technique, for stir-frying, 2·54,

56–57Chapel, Alain

Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er recipe, 3·100

pot-au-feu of, 5·49Chaptal, Jean-Antoine, 4·330chaptalization, in viticulture, 4·330, 332charcoal. See also coals; prune coals

vs. brique� es for grilling, 2·12as � ning agent, 2·360vs. gas for grilling, 2·10–11making, 2·134vs. wood for grilling, 2·7

charcoal grillscontrolling heat in, 2·14gas grills vs., 2·10–11

chard stems, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289

Chardonnay, genetic origins of, 4·327–328

Charpentier, Georges, 1·19Charred Leek Oil, 5·17, 18Château Cordeillan-Bages, 1·63chawanmushi

Chawanmushi, 4·96description of, 4·96parametric recipe for, 4·92

cheddar cheese� e American Cheese Slice, 4·224Cheddar Soup, 4·225Cheese Pu� s, 4·305Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder,

2·411Mac and Cheese, 3·387

Cheddar Soup, 4·225cheese. See also speci� c types of cheese

constructed, best bets for, 4·223as dairy gel, 4·102–123emulsions and, 4·218, 222–225FDA Food Code on milk

pasteurization for, 1·185Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106processed, history of, 4·222raw milk

French vs. U.S. standards on, 1·171, 173

safe cooking standards for, 1·170smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100spoiled, risks of, 1·139

cheese fondue, parametric recipe for, 4·223

Cheese in a Tube, 4·225Cheese Pu� s, 4·305

cheese sauce, parametric recipe for, 4·223

cheese slices, parametric recipe for, 4·223

cheese soup, parametric recipe for, 4·223

cheese spread, parametric recipe for, 4·223

cheese trolley, 1·25, 35cheesecloth, for � ltering, 2·351Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225Chef Boy-ar-Dee canned goods, 1·21chefs, celebrity, 1·19, 50, 60. See also

individual chefs’ namesNew American cuisine and, 1·29New International cuisine and, 1·31Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26

chefs, professional. See also individual chefs’ names

cooking by amateur chefs vs., 1·87–88

copying dishes and, 1·71early civilization and development

of, 1·7–8hygiene accessories for, 1·202–203recipes inspired by or adapted from,

1·100–101Chemex co� ee brewer, 4·369chemicals

for food preservation, 1·144–145in foods, 1·250juicing citrus fruits and, 2·332kitchen, common, 4·VIprions and, 1·156in smoking, 2·140

cherriesCherry Vinaigre� e, 5·267, 270cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·288Dried Cherry and Hazelnut

Nougatine, 5·267, 270Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153, 5·267,

268, 269Pickled Bing Cherry, 5·267, 268preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard

Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97cherries (co� ee plant fruit), 4·358Cherry Vinaigre� e, 5·267, 270chestnuts

Chestnut Con� t, 5·17, 18Chestnut Cream, 5·17, 21Chestnut Pu� s, 5·17, 20–21cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·291, 292Chevalier-Appert, Raymond, 2·75Chez Panisse, 1·28Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook (Waters),

1·28–29Chicago, as Modernist mecca, 1·69chicharrones, water as foaming gas for,

4·254chicken

aging, 3·41beer can roasting of, 2·109Boudin Blanc, 3·243breeding for white meat, 2·120brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup,

4·238

chicken (continued)cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210� e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336cooking

sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99, 108

times for, 1·180, 181Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116“danger zone” temperatures and,

1·176, 177, 178–179deep-frying, high-pressure,

2·120–121fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in,

3·12FDA safe cooking standards for,

1·170food safety misconceptions about,

1·180–181Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 5·113,

114–115hot-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248meat color of duck vs., 3·16–17Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100Pressure-Cooked White Chicken

Stock, 2·301primal cuts of, 3·44program cooking in combi oven,

2·169roast, combi oven cooking of,

2·178–179Salmonella and, 1·180–181Ultracrisp Chicken Crown,

3·134–135Yakitori, 3·201

chicken fatBoudin Blanc, 3·243chemistry of, 2·126Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248

chicken feet, Pu� ed Chicken Feet, 3·133

chicken gizzard, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146

chicken juice, parametric recipe for, 2·344–345

chicken skincooking methods for, 3·120–121Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116crisping by loosening, 3·123crispy cooking sous vide of, 3·131

chicken stock, parametric recipe for, 2·296–298

Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204chickpeas

Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121


pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Pu� ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138Pu� ed Chickpeas, 4·307

Child, Julia, 1·26, 83on sole meunière, 3·40

Children’s Hospital, Oakland, California, 1·230

Chile, wine innovation in, 4·332

chili extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326

chili pepperscapsaicin in, 3·271Chili Pearls, 4·145Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403choosing, 3·271dry, converting grams to volumes

for, 5·XXXVIIIinfusion of, parametric recipe for,

2·310Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry

Salad, 5·277, 278preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348rating, science of, 3·270Romesco Sauce, 2·419Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330

Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 4·238chilling. See also chilling water baths;

cook-chill sous vide methods; freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators

of a carcass, 3·35food safety and quality and, 2·252,

254, 256in sous vide cooking, 2·242strategies for, 2·255

chilling water bathsfor Modernist kitchen, 2·285physics of not halting cooking with,

2·254technology of, 2·238

chimneys, air � ow up, 2·7China

aristocratic food in, 1·8fermented meats in, 3·246tradition and evolving cuisine of,

1·15Chinese artichokes, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·292Chinese banquet stock, parametric

recipe for, 2·296–297Chinese everyday stock, parametric

recipe for, 2·296–297Chinese ginger soy � sh broth,

parametric recipe for, 2·304–305Chinese restaurant headache, MSG

and, 1·213chinois, cone-shaped, 2·351chips. See also fruit chips; vegetable

chipsdehydrating formula for, 3·367

chives, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372

chlorine, in municipal water, 1·335chlorophyll

in green vegetables, 2·267hard water and, 3·278

chlorophyllase, 2·267chocolate

Aerated Chocolate, 4·313Chocolate Chantilly, 4·281conching of, 2·404foam bars, forming, 4·254Mayans and, 1·13melted, solidi� ed to frozen set foam,

4·247chocolate cake with liquid center,

evolution of, 1·15–16chocolate milk, as colloidal suspension,

4·176chocolate water, parametric recipe for,

2·374–375


L X V I I N D E X

CHOLESTEROLCcholesterol

characteristics of, 1·224dietary fat and, 1·222, 224–227health risks with low levels of, 1·226heart disease and, 1·227weight loss diets and, 1·242

chopping, tools for, 3·230–233chorizo

Chorizo Crisp, 5·193, 194Chorizo French Toast, 4·98–99Frozen Chorizo Powder, 5·193, 194parametric recipe for, 3·244–245Passion Fruit Marshmallow with

Chorizo Powder, 4·290Choucroute Royale plated-dish recipe,

5·35–39chronic wasting disease (CWD), 1·159chufa milk

Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59parametric recipe for, 4·56

chufa nutsabout, 5·244Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244

chymosin, as gel coagulant, 4·70cinnamon cap mushrooms, Preserved

Cinnamon Cap Mushroom, 5·219, 220cinnamon extract, parametric recipe

for, 2·326cinnamon infusion, parametric recipe

for, 2·310Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 5·273,

275cipolline onions, Sweet-and-Sour

Cipolline Onions, 5·17, 19circulating water baths, 2·232,

234–235, 237citric acid

as acidi� er, 2·314for cold gels, parametric recipe for,

4·140for sausage, 3·227

citron, Buddha’s handBuddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·291distillation of, 2·388

Citrus Air, 4·265citrus extract, parametric recipe for,

2·326citrus fruits. See also speci� c � uits


heat-treating, parametric recipe for, 3·359

juice of, as acidi� er, 2·314, 315preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348citrus oil, washing, how to, 2·321citrus press, 2·332, 335Citrus Spice, 2·404city roast stage, of co� ee, 4·362civet, Asian palm, Kopi Luwak co� ee

and, 4·360civilization, de� nition of, 1·7CJD (Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease),

1·157–159, 160clams

biology of, 3·26, 27Clam Juice, 5·229, 230cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·103fecal contamination of, 1·117

clams (continued)geoduck

biology of, 3·27cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·108Geoduck with Seawater Foam,

4·266Marinated Geoduck, Young

Ginger, Shiso, 5·197, 200Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga,

Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202razor


noroviruses and, 1·155Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 5·197, 199Razor Clam with Sauce Verte,

3·112Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso� o,

3·308Stu� ed Clam, 5·229, 231Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230

clari� ed bu� erbrowned solids from, using, 4·212how to make, 4·213

clarity. See also opacitythickener selection and, 4·15

Clay Potatoes, 3·398cleaning. See also food safety; hygiene

of co� ee brewer and grinder, 4·396of combi ovens, 2·169of espresso machines, how to, 4·397of kitchens, 1·200, 204

Cliche, Michael, sous vide cooking and, 2·195

climacteric fruits, ripening, 3·283–284climate, winemaking and, 4·328–329clinical trials. See randomized clinical

trialscloning, wine and, 4·326–328Clorox, for kitchen cleaning, 1·200, 204Clostridium botulinum

canning and, 2·75food contamination by, 1·140food poisoning and, 1·132–133,

138–139pressure-canning and, 2·85, 88refrigeration and, 2·257replication of

limits of, 1·145nisin and, 1·144–145

sodium nitrites and, 1·144Clostridium per� ingens

chicken and, 1·180food poisoning from, 1·138, 139, 141replication of

limits of, 1·145nisin and, 1·144–145rate of, 1·142

clo� ed cream, parametric recipe for, 4·56

Clove Oil, 5·49, 52Clover co� ee machine, 4·398CMC (carboxyl methylcellulose)

interactions with other thickeners, 4·44–45

product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43

CO (carbon monoxide), to bloom myoglobin in meat, 3·95

CO2. See carbon dioxidecoagulants

for gelling. See coagulants for gelling

coagulants (continued)protein, 4·103sequestrants for removing, 4·72for thickening, 4·7, 71

coagulants for gelling, 4·70, 71ion-based, 4·124–127

how to use, 4·129coals

faux. See prune coalsglowing, pot-roasting and, 2·96

coalescence, as emulsion failure, 4·210, 212

Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248coarse-ground sausages, 3·220, 222

best bets for, 3·236–237cryosha� ering for, 3·230parametric recipe for, 3·236–237

Coca-Cola, 1·20, 22–23, 76cockles, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·103cockscombs


preparation of, 3·122Pu� ed Cockscomb, 3·133

cocoaCocoa Nib Curd, 4·105Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227

cocoa tajarinCocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227Cocoa Tajarin plated-dish recipe,

5·225–227parametric recipe for, 3·381

coconutCaramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50Coconut Chutney Foam, 4·282Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 5·185,

187preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348coconut oil, chemistry of, 2·126cod

cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·210



Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3·179Monk� sh with Constructed Skin,

3·132Sous Vide Black Cod, 5·171, 173Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté,

4·32cod roe, Steamed Cod with Cod Roe

Velouté, 4·32co� ee, 4·354–403. See also co� ee beans

adding cream to, physics of, 1·289Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312brewing. See brewingCappuccino Foam, 4·266Co� ee Bu� er, 5·211, 212cold-extraction system for, 2·286,

4·370, 371consistency in, 4·396–403cooking with, technique of, 4·371deca� einated

production process for, 1·256science of, 4·363

espresso as. See espressoFair Trade, economics of, 4·361grinders for. See co� ee grindersKopi Luwak, provenance of, 4·360

co� ee (continued)milk and, art of, 4·391–395Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,

4·275pod and capsule systems for,

technology of, 4·400Sea� le as capital of, history of, 4·398storing, practicalities of, 4·362tasting like a pro, how to, 4·365

co� ee beansburr grinders for, 2·401–402, 4·376,

378from cherry to, 4·358, 360–361for espresso, 4·374, 376

Northern Italian roast for, 4·360grinding for espresso

adjustments for, 4·388coarse vs. � ne, 4·376, 378common problems with, 4·377grinders for. See espresso grindershow to, 4·377pregrinding and, 4·380

processing methods for, 4·358roasting, stages of, 4·362roasting for � avor, 4·358, 360–361species of, 4·358surface area a� er grinding of, 2·290

Co� ee Bu� er, 5·211, 212co� ee extract, parametric recipe for,

2·326co� ee grinders

breaking down food with, 2·400burr type

dry-grinding with, 2·401–402quality of, co� ee grind and, 4·378technology of, 4·376

colloid mill for, 2·404dispensers, porta� lter dosing and,

4·378fan cooled, 4·376, 378, 398hopper of, stale co� ee in, 4·377quality of, co� ee grind and, 4·378temperature of, co� ee grind and,

4·376co� ee infusion, parametric recipe for,

2·310co� eegeek.com, 4·398cohort studies, of nutrition, 1·220COI, 1·67. See also Pa� erson, Danielcola brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168colanders, 2·351Colborne Lane, 1·70cold gels, parametric recipe for,

4·140–141cold liquids, thickened, parametric

recipe for, 4·46–47cold shortening, of a carcass, 3·35cold-extraction co� ee system, 2·286,

4·370, 371cold-shocking, physics of not halting

cooking with, 2·254cold-smoking, 2·141–143, 3·361coleslaw

Red Coleslaw, 5·67, 72White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72

collagenin cephalopods, 3·24–25in cooking, role of, 3·80–81fat and

incorporation into sausage, 3·224in meat, 3·15

in � sh, 3·20, 21gelatin formation from, 4·67


I N D E X L X V I I

CONVECTION OVEN MODE Ccollagen (continued)

holding at speci� c temperature and, 2·247

Jaccard tenderizers and, 3·51long, slow cooking and, 3·84in meat, 3·6meat tenderness and, 3·10muscle contraction and, 3·8–9shrinkage of, 3·79in skin, baking chicken upright and,

2·109skin shrinkage and, 3·116, 118of young vs. older animals, juiciness

and, 3·79, 81collapse temperature, in freeze-drying,

2·446Collectramatic, 2·120–121colloid mills, 2·398–400

for dry-grinding, 2·404features of, 2·416–417milling creamy nut bu� er with,

2·418–419for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for wet-grinding, 2·413–414,

416–419colloidal suspensions (colloids)

blood as, 4·6description of, 4·12emulsi� ed sausage as, 3·225reductions of, 4·11

� e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336colony-forming units (CFUs), 1·142color

alteration of, when cooking cured meat or seafood, 3·165

boiling to “� x,” chemistry of, 2·63, 66

of cow’s milk, 4·202of crustaceans, molting and, 3·30of fresh juice, preserving, 2·338, 339gassing meat for, chemistry of, 3·95of meat

cooking and, 3·93–94muscles and, 3·12, 14–15, 16–17

myoglobin and, 3·92–93physics of temperature and, 1·291of plant foods

cooking and changes in, chemistry of, 3·274–275

drying and, 3·365of seafood, cooking and, 3·93–94wine taste and, 4·334–335, 338

colorectal cancer, dietary � ber and risk of, 1·214–217

Columbus, Christopher, 1·14Combal.Zero, 1·70ComBase Initiative, Growth Predictor

(bacterial modeling) and, 1·147Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180combi ovens

bacon and eggs cooked in, 2·174–175baking using, 2·106broccoli steamed in, 2·181calibration of, 2·163cooking in, 2·167–168cooking modes of, 2·155–157cooking strategies for, 2·170crisping skin with, 3·123drying in, 2·430, 431heat and humidity control in,

2·162–163improvement proposals for, 2·167invention of, 2·154

combi ovens (continued)kitchen humidity and, 2·164for Modernist kitchen, 2·284omelet cooking in, 4·95pans for, 2·166pot-roasting using, 2·96program cooking with, 2·168–169,

172–173Rational. See Rational combi ovensrib eye recipe using, 2·180roasting chicken in, 2·178–179for sous vide cooking, 2·232, 239,

243water content of heated air in, 2·153

Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, 2·181combination (combi) mode, in modern

ovens, 2·156–157combustion, of wood, 2·137comminution, 3·230Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,

5·55, 58compressed fruits and vegetables

example recipes for, 3·392–401, 5·285

parametric recipe for, 3·390–391Compressed Green Apple, 5·211, 212Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392Compressed Muscat Grapes, 5·109, 110Compressed Tomato, 5·11, 15compression, vacuum

physics of, 2·213for plant food cooking, 3·286using chamber sealers, 2·214

computer simulation modelsof bacterial growth, 1·147of cold-shocking e� ects on cooking,

2·254of � ipping food for speed and

evenness, 2·39of heat � ows in roasting vs. baking,

2·33of heat transfer, 1·282of time for steaming vs. boiling, 2·73

COMSOL, 1·282concentrates, 2·378–397

cell dehydration in, 1·305freezing, 2·396, 397Genevac Rocket Evaporator for,

2·391–395reverse osmosis for, 2·396rotary evaporator for, 2·384–389strategies for, 2·379–380vacuum reduction for, 2·380–383

concentrators, vacuum, 2·285, 379, 380conching, chocolate making by, 2·404concretes, solvent extraction of

essential oils and, 2·320condensates

de� nition of, 1·319� lm, steaming and, 1·319, 2·70from rotary evaporation, 2·390–391smoke, drenching food with, 2·149

condensation. See also evaporation; humidity

deep-frying and, 2·125energy transfer and, 2·70evaporative cooling as, 1·319–321,

325heat transfer with, 1·277stir-frying and, 2·48

condensers, vacuum, essential oils and, 2·320

Condrieu Bu� er, 5·171, 172

conducting foods, pressure-canning and, 2·88

conduction. See also conduction zonein cookware, 1·277–278in deep-frying, 2·117in foods, 1·279, 280–281

pressure-canning and, 2·89freezing water and, 1·299heat transfer with, 1·277in panfrying, 2·42–43in shallow frying, 2·127underground, wine storage and,

4·345in various materials, 1·280–281

conduction zonebaking and, 2·108in steak frying, 3·75stir-frying and, 2·48

con� dence interval, of nutritional studies, 1·220

con� ts, 2·128–131Artichoke Con� t, 5·171, 172Chestnut Con� t, 5·17, 18Con� t Cure Mix, 3·179Con� t Egg-Yolk Puree, 5·147, 148duck, curing for, 3·159Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes

Sarladaises, 3·178Garlic Con� t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81Lobster Mushroom Con� t, 5·185,

187Pink Grapefruit Con� t, 5·225, 226safety considerations for, 2·128Smoked Potato Con� t, 5·193, 195Sous Vide Duck Con� t Pavé, 5·81,

82sous vide preparation of, 2·128–129Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel

Salad, 3·106Tomato Con� t, 5·11, 55, 60, 62, 67traditional preparation of, 2·128,

130–131conformations, of prion diseases, 1·156,

158confounding e� ects, nutritional studies

and, 1·219conjugation, plasmid transfer by, 1·133Connaughton, Kyle, 3·54

Fluke Cured in Kombu recipe, 3·181Sous Vide Ponzu recipe, 2·313

connective tissueaging of, 3·41barbecue stall and, 3·212baseball glove cut from pork

shoulder and, 3·48blocking tuna and, 3·54–55of bones, 3·143–144brining and, 3·157cooking and, 3·76

of tough cuts, 3·84in fa� y tissue, 3·118, 145in heart meat, 3·142in kidneys, 3·141pounding and, 3·50sausage-making and, 3·224in skin, 3·116in sweetbreads, 3·140tenderizing of, 3·41

with marinades, 3·192, 193, 195in tongue, 3·141tumbling and, 3·51

conservation of mass, 1·331

consomméBagna Cauda Consommé, 5·229, 230best bets for, 2·374–375clarifying, 2·352crystal clear, 2·359example recipes for, 2·376–377Ham Consommé with Melon Beads,

4·48Oyster Consommé, 5·205, 206parametric recipe for, 2·374–375Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86Strawberry Consommé, 5·277, 278vacuum � ltering of, 2·354

consommé madrilène, parametric recipe for, 2·374–375

constant-rate periodin baking, 2·106–107in deep-frying, 2·117in drying, 2·431

constructed cheesesbest bets for, 4·223example recipes for, 4·224–225

constructed creams, 4·214Constructed Veal Cream, 5·31, 33example recipes for, 4·236–237

Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219, 221

contaminationby animal � esh, 1·117cross-contamination and. See cross-

contaminationenvironmental, 1·116, 117fecal

animal, 1·116–117hygiene and, 1·196–197, 200plant foods and, 1·197

by human spi� le, 1·116, 117kitchen space and, 1·200microbial

aerobic. See aerobic bacteriaanaerobic. See anaerobic bacteriabad odors from sealed bags and,

2·214shell� sh foraging and, 3·27–28

continuous phaseof cream, 4·203in emulsions, 4·199

ratio of continuous phase to, 4·205in foams, 4·243

controlled-vapor oven. See CVap water-vapor ovens

convecting foods, pressure-canning of, 2·88, 89

convectionconvection zone and, 2·48cooking using, 1·279, 281–283. See

also convection baking; convection ovens

forced, 1·282–283, 2·159freezing water and, 1·299heat transfer with, 1·277natural, 1·282, 283panfrying and, 2·42–43

convection bakingboundary layer and, 2·108, 110radiant heat and, 2·110–111

convection cells, in natural convection, 1·283

convection currents, boiling and, 1·315convection oven mode, combi ovens

and, 2·157, 168


L X V I I I I N D E X

CONVECTION OVENSCconvection ovens. See also convection

bakingdrying in, 2·431forced convection, 1·282–283forced-convection steam ovens and,

2·239method of operation, 1·282–283TurboChef microwave oven and,

2·189convection steaming, in ovens, 2·156convection zone, stir-frying and, 2·48convenience food, corporate control of,

1·23Cook, Robin, 3·196cookbook writers, chefs as, 1·83cook-chill sous vide methods

canning and, 2·204–205for food preservation, 2·252frigi-canning and, 2·84for storage, 1·206, 2·250vacuum packing for, 2·208–209

cooked whole eggs, parametric recipe for, 4·78–79

cooking. See also speci� c cooking techniques and foods

corporate approach to, 1·22–24of early civilizations, 1·7–8, 10–13evolution of, 1·14–16history of origins of, 1·6–13history of Slow Food and, 1·23by hunter-gatherers and early

farmers, 1·6–7Modernist. See Modernist cuisineNew American cuisine, 1·28–29Nouvelle revolution in, 1·24, 26–31of plant foods under pressure,


revolution in, 1·18–20at low end, 1·20–22Nouvelle, 1·24, 26–31

in 17th century France, 1·9of skin, example recipes for,

3·132–135sous vide. See sous videtraditional. See traditional cooking

cooking times, food geometry and estimates of, 1·279

cooktop. See also burners; stove topfor Modernist kitchen, 2·287

cookware. See also pans; pots; speci� c types of cookware

aluminumconduction in, 1·280heat capacity of, 1·278

cast iron, 1·278, 280ceramic, conductivity and, 1·277conductivity of, 1·277–278

cooling. See also chilling; chilling water baths; cook-chill sous vide methods; freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators

evaporativehumidity and, 1·319–320oven temperatures and, 2·155

of hot foodfood safety and, 1·205–206, 2·256,

257phase changes and, 1·290starchy plants and, 3·280, 282

vacuum-assistedevaporation and, 1·321phase changes in, 1·290

Copenhagen Pectin, 4·40

Coppens, Kristof, 1·70copyright laws, chefs’ recipes and,

1·70–71core temperature

FDA Food Code on, 1·174heating to, food safety and, 1·191target

holding food at, 2·247–249water bath ho� er than, 2·243–247water bath set to, 2·243–245

coriander extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326

corked wine, 4·348–350rescuing, chemistry of, 4·349

corks, for wine bo� les, natural and synthetic, 4·344, 345, 346

corn. See also popcorncooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289, 292Corn Bread, 5·67, 76Corn Croque� a, 3·341Corn Custard, 4·122Corn Foam, 4·273Corn Pebbles, 4·36Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104dehydrating, parametric recipe for,

3·366dried, Shrimp and Grits, 3·377 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

3·372freezing to preserve � avor of, 3·374frozen, grits ground from, 3·376pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302puree of, parametric recipe for,

2·425smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362corn oil, chemistry of, 2·126corn starch, 4·20

thickening with, parametric recipe for, 4·28

corn syrup, � avor release by, 4·11corned beef cure, parametric recipe for,

3·169cornmeal, gelling properties of, 4·68Corriher, Shirley O., 1·44cotechino, parametric recipe for,

3·236–237Côtes-du-Rhône wine, early Greek

traders and, 1·12co� age cheese, parametric recipe for,

4·104co� onseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126coulant, of Michael Bras, 1·40Counter Culture Co� ee, 4·361Country Bread Crisps, 5·85, 86Coupe-Set, 2·410court bouillon, truite au bleu and, 3·40Courtine, Robert (La Reynière), 1·26covalent bonds, 1·296, 330covered sautéing, 2·58–61

chao technique and, 2·54cutaway illustration of, 2·60–61searing or glazing before, 2·58

covering brine, for accelerating brining, 3·166

cow pumps, extruding gel noodles with, 4·139

cow’s milk. See also milkallergies to, 1·238

cP (centipoise), 4·6CP Kelco, 4·40

crab. See also crabmeatbiology of, 3·28, 30liver � uke infections and, 1·124

crabmeatCrab and Ginger Marble, 5·253, 255Crab and Pork Stock Spheres, 5·253,

256Crab Oil, 5·189, 190Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade,

4·169Edamame Sheets, King Crab,

Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118faux (surimi), 3·251, 388Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191Pu� ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190Shell� sh Stock, 5·185, 186Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork

Stock Infusion, 5·253, 254Cracco, Carlo, 1·70

Seafood Paper recipe, 3·188crack phases, in co� ee roasting, 4·361,

362crackers

pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303

cracklings, water as foaming gas for, 4·254

Craig, Lyman, 2·384cranberries, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·288, 291craw� sh/cray� sh

freshwater, biology of, 3·28liver � uke infections and, 1·124as seafood gel, 3·222

CREA (Centre de Recherche et d’Études pour l’Alimentation), 1·43

C-reactive protein, 1·227, 242cream. See also creams

adding to co� ee, physics of, 1·289Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193clo� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·56Corn Foam, 4·273Cromesquis, 3·340Eggplant Foam, 4·280emulsi� cation into bu� er, 4·206as emulsion, viscosity of, 4·205emulsions and, 4·221heavy

gums added to, 4·102organic food movement perception

of, 1·253Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57hydrating LA gellan with, 4·124–125Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57as oil-in-water emulsion, 4·199, 201Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam,

4·276separating bu� erfat from, 2·366, 368for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune

Sabayon, 3·363whipped, hot and cold treatment for,

4·244, 248Whipped Bu� er, 4·286Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato

Chips, 4·287cream cheese

Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63

Creamed Spinach, 4·55

Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5creaming

as draining in foams, 4·249as emulsion failure, 4·210, 218

creamsconstructed, 4·214, 236–237Constructed Veal Cream, 5·31, 33making, best bets for, 4·56parametric recipe for, 4·56

cremaage of roasted co� ee beans and,

4·361carbon dioxide and, 4·384chemistry of, 4·388

crème anglaiseCauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89parametric recipe for, 4·85

crème brûléeparametric recipe for, 4·85Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88

crème caramelparametric recipe for, 4·92Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101

crème fraîcheCaramelized Crème Fraîche, 5·25, 28Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 2·411Red-Onion Cream, 3·68

Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (CJD), 1·157–159, 160

Crilly, Grant, Prune Coals recipe, 5·17crimini mushrooms


Crimini in Amber, 4·154Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13

Crisp Chicken Crown, 5·113, 116crisping skin

approaches to, 3·123a� er cooking sous vide, 2·268of � sh

slime as key to, physiology of, 3·129small, how to, 3·130sous vide, 3·131

crispsBlack Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304Gremolata Crisp, 5·60, 64Rice Crisp, 5·31, 32

Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43, 47Crispy Beef Strands, 5·43, 44Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303Crispy Cauli� ower plated-dish recipe,

5·281–283Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63Crispy Dosa, 3·355Crispy Duck Tongues, 5·81, 84Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico� a Dumpling,

5·273, 274Crispy Halibut Cheek, 3·334–335Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken plated-

dish recipe, 5·113–119Crispy Okra, 5·90, 97Crispy Snapper Skin, 5·167, 168Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150critical point, in phase diagrams,

1·302–303critical temperature

bacterial replication rates and, 1·142–143

for freeze-drying, science of, 2·453freeze-drying and, 2·444, 446


I N D E X L X I X

DDASHI

Crljenak Kastelanski grapes, 4·326crock pots, 2·240Cromesquis, 3·340crosnes, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·292cross-contamination

dirty gloves and, 1·200E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006

and, 1·172food safety standards and, 1·168–169foodborne pathogens and, 1·166gluten intolerance and, 1·239UV powder for tracking, 1·201

crotchless porta� lters, 4·385, 388, 398cruciferous vegetables. See also speci� c

vegetablesblanching, 2·214

crustaceans. See also crabmeat; crabs; craw� sh; lobsters; prawns; shrimp

biology of, 3·28–31cu� ing of, 3·52Maillard reaction of, 3·87

Cruz, Jordi, Olive Oil Noodles recipe, 4·146

cryoconcentration, of wine, 4·330cryoextraction, of wine, 2·396cryogenic freezing, 2·456–467, 471–473

characteristics of, 2·456, 458dry ice for, 2·458, 464, 466, 471–473food � avor and, 2·261ice crystal formation in freezers and,

2·257–258liquid nitrogen for, 1·308, 2·456, 458,

459, 460–463safety with, 2·464, 466, 467science of how liquid nitrogen boils

and, 2·457tartares and raw meat preparation

with, 3·62cryogenics

de� nition of, 2·456late 19th-century research on, 1·60for quick freezing, 1·308

cryogens, 2·456. See also dry ice; liquid nitrogen

culinary life of, 1·60–66, 68, 70safe handling of, 2·464, 466, 467spheri� cation with, 4·184suppliers of, 2·458

cryograting, how to, 2·461cryopoaching

Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161, 165

Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291for Dippin’ Dots, 1·61technique for, 2·460

cryopowdering, how to, 2·461cryorendering

of subcutaneous fat, 3·122before vacuum packing, 2·268

cryosearingwith dry ice, 2·464of duck breast, how to, 3·124–125with liquid nitrogen, 2·456, 458of skin and fat, 3·118of subcutaneous fat, 3·122

cryoshaping, how to, 2·463cryosha� ering

for coarse-ground sausage, 3·230how to, 2·463of plant foods, to modify texture,

3·374for tartare, how to, 3·64

cryospheri� cation, 4·184Cryovac

AGS system of vacuum packing and, 1·40

Roux, sous vide cooking and, 1·41sous vide school and, 1·42, 43

cryptosporidiosis, 1·129Cryptosporidium parvum, 1·129Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368cucumber chips, parametric recipe for,

3·328cucumbers


Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 5·94

impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390

Nukazuke, 3·354preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Salted Cucumber, 5·233, 236Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353

Cuisine Solutions, 1·43, 2·265Le Cuisinier François (La Varenne, 1651),

1·8, 9cultures, bacterial, for fermented

sausage, 3·246curds. See proteins, curds ofCured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,”

3·185Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84cures

example recipes for, 3·176–185, 5·17, 18, 43, 151

parametric recipe for, 3·168–172curing

accelerating strategies for, 3·166–167, 174–175

best bets for, 3·172dry. See dry-curingdrying with warm air and, 2·433for food preservation, 3·152functional ingredients for, 3·155nitrates, nitrites, and nitrosamines

and, 3·160process of, 3·158, 160, 162, 165–166ripening a� er, 3·167, 173safety of, worrisome signs during,

3·164salts for. See salts, curingtime and salt concentration for, 3·154wet. See wet-curing

curries. See also curry saucesfor � avor and preservation,

3·196–197Curry Oil, 2·331curry sauces

Goan Curry, 5·90, 91, 95Kerala Curry, 5·90, 91, 96Masala Curry, 5·90, 91, 98Mughal Curry Sauce, 5·89, 90, 92Muslim Curry Sauce, 5·89–91, 93

Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393custard

Asparagus Royale, 4·94Bone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63Boudin Noir Custard, 5·125, 127Cauli� ower Panna Co� a, 4·142Chawanmushi, 4·96Corn Custard, 4·122Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120Gruyère Custard, 5·261, 264

custard (continued) Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221Japanese (chawanmushi), parametric

recipe for, 4·92parametric recipe for, 4·84royale, parametric recipe for, 4·92Salmon Custard, 4·119Shell� sh Custard, 4·162

cutaway illustrationsof baked turkey, 2·104–105of bao technique of stir-frying, 2·55of boiling à l’Anglaise, 2·64–65of boiling-water canning, 2·82–83of chao technique of stir-frying,

2·56–57of covered sautéing of vegetables,

2·60–61of CVap water-vapor oven, 2·160–161of deep-frying, 1·89, 2·118–119for depicting science of cooking,

1·84, 88–89of espresso machine, 4·402–403of Girardet method, 2·24–25of grilling, 2·8–9of heat loss from stove-top pots, 1·276of indirect grilling, 2·13of meat grinder, 3·229of microwave oven, 2·186–187of Pacojet, 2·408–409of pot-roasting, 2·94–95of pressure-canning, 2·90–91of pressure-cooking stock, 2·293–294of Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven,

2·34–35of sautéing, 2·46–47of searing a la plancha, 2·40–41of sou� é, 4·248–249of steak frying in skillet, 3·72–73of steaming, 2·72–73of stewing, 2·96–97of whipping siphon, 4·261of wok stir-frying, 1·88, 2·50–51

cu� ing boards, kitchen hygiene and, 1·204

cu� ing particles down to size. See particle size reduction

cu� le� shbiology of, 3·24cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·108Japanese cu� ing of, 3·52

CVap water-vapor ovensbacon and eggs cooked in, 2·174–175cooking modes of, 2·155–156, 169cooking strategies for, 2·170cutaway illustration of, 2·160–161forced convection in, 2·159heat and humidity control in,

2·158–159improvement proposals for, 2·167invention of, 2·154

CWD (chronic wasting disease), 1·159cyanide

bi� er almond aroma of, 3·262cassava cooking by South American

natives and, 1·6cyclamate, as banned additive, 1·252Cyclospora cayetanensis, 1·129cyclosporosis, 1·129cysteine, 3·89cysticercosis, 1·124cytochrome, 3·12, 94

DD (decimal) level reductions

1D or 12D, for sanitizing food, 1·148, 149

of pathogens in food, 1·166, 168Dacosta, Quique

aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37Frozen White “Tru� e” recipe,

3·400–401Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam

recipe, 4·269Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth

recipe, 4·273liquid nitrogen cooking by, 2·459Modernist cuisine and, 1·57“Into the Vegetable Garden” and,

3·294Daguin, André, liquid nitrogen and,

1·60–61, 62, 65Daguin, Ariane, 1·61daikon radishes, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·289� e Daily Cleveland Herald, 3·220dairy brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168dairy products. See also speci� c dairy

productsemulsions, 4·218–229

example recipes for, 4·219–221foaming agents and, 4·251gels, 4·102–123

example recipes for, 4·105–111, 114, 117, 120, 122

parametric recipe for, 4·116–117pasteurization of

FDA Food Code on, 1·187, 188–189simpli� ed cooking standards for,

1·190, 191, 192smoking

best bets for, 4·100parametric recipe for, 4·100

typicalfat content of, 5·XLIIIwater content of, 5·XL

Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 4·283Dal Pescatore, 1·28Dalton’s law of partial pressures, 2·87“danger zone,” 1·175–179

microbial growth pa� erns and, 1·175misconceptions about, 1·175–176,

178–179Salmonella growth and, 1·177

Dannon yogurtfor American tastes, 1·20–21as fast, ready-to-eat food, 1·22–23

dark cu� er meat, 3·35dark meat. See also red meat

in chickens and turkeys, 3·12in ducks vs. chickens, 3·16–17� avor of, 3·15in sedentary animals, 3·14

DART 1 (Diet and Reinfarction Trial), 1·232

DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) trials, 1·234, 236, 237

dashiBacon Dashi, 2·308Dashimaki Tamago, 4·94Edamame Sheets, King Crab,

Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197


L X X I N D E X

DASHIDdashi (continued)

parametric recipe for, 2·304–305dates


Date Puree, 5·121, 122de Landa, Bishop Diego, of Yucatán,

1·13De re coquinaria. See Apiciusde Serres, Pierre

Freedom Cooking System of, 2·240sous vide at home and, 1·73

dealcoholization, in viticulture, 4·331deaths

bacterial, 1·148–151pasteurization and sterilization for,

1·149thermal death curves of, 1·150–151

humanfrom botulism vs. toxoplasma,

1·118foodborne illnesses and, 1·113from foodborne microorganisms,

1·113U.S. rates for foodborne illnesses

vs. other causes of, 1·118deca� einated co� ee

espresso, temperature se� ings and, 4·374, 385

production process for, 1·256science of, 4·363

decanting wine, 4·342–343deception, culinary, 3·388–401decoction, in co� ee brewing, 4·364deconstruction

Adrià on elBulli cooking and, 1·37–38

Blumenthal on, 1·51Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 3·321Deep-Fried Cauli� ower, 5·281, 283Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228deep-frying, 2·116–127

baking compared with, 2·116–117ba� er coating for, 2·122, 127a� er cooking sous vide, 2·271crust and, 2·122–123cutaway illustration of, 1·89,

2·118–119equipment for, 2·287factors a� ecting oil coating of foods

and, 2·127foam forming with, 4·258food size for, 2·117greasiness with, avoiding, 2·125, 127heat conduction in, 2·117heat transfer coe� cient of, 1·283high-pressure, 2·120–121multistep, 2·122–123oil used for

age of, 2·127chemistry of, 2·126fresh, 2·123new, breaking in, 2·123repeated use of, 2·123–125smoking of, 2·124temperature of, 2·116, 122, 123,

127overloading deep fryer and, 2·125under pressure, 2·120–121precooking food sous vide for, 2·123stages of, 2·116–117surface roughness of food and, 2·127

deep-frying (continued)thickness of food and, 2·127water vapor in, 2·115, 116–117,

118–119, 125deer. See also venison

chronic wasting disease in, 1·159hunters of, CJD-like disease in, 1·161

defrost cycles, automatic, ice crystal formation and, 2·258

Degeimbre, Sang-hoonLychee and Lime Soda recipe, 4·268Modernist cuisine and, 1·70

dehydrated foods, seasonal mélanges with, 3·295

Dehydrated Garlic Chip, 5·43, 46dehydrating cabinets. See also drying

features of, 2·431, 434–435dehydration. See dryingdehydrators

drying in, 2·430, 3·365for Modernist kitchen, 2·286

deionized (DI) water, 1·335espresso-making and, 4·384hydrating ion-coagulated gels and,

4·124, 125for plant food cooking, 3·278

Delhasse, Anthony, 1·70delicata squash, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·289Les Délices de la Campagne (Bonnefons,

1654), 1·9deliquescence, 2·428Demetrius of Phalerum, 1·13denaturing

of collagenas gelatin, 3·78in living animals, 3·76

holding at speci� c temperature as, 2·247

of proteins, foaming and, 4·244Denia, 1·57Denominazione di Origine Controllata

(DOC), 4·332Denominazione di Origine Controllata e

Garantita (DOCG), 4·332density, heat capacity of cookware and,

1·278dental vibrator tray, for espresso

tamping, 4·380deoxymyoglobin, 3·93deposition

de� nition of, 1·326sublimation vs., 1·329

derivatives, mathematical, de� nition of, 2·230

desiccants, food drying and, 2·428desiccation zone

in baking, 2·107, 108in steak frying, 3·74

desiccators, vacuumdrying plants foods with, 3·365features of, 2·433, 436–437foam forming with, 4·310for Modernist kitchen, 2·286

dessert trolleysdisappearance from elBulli of, 1·35plated desserts vs., 1·25

detergents, as surfactants, 4·202detox diets, 1·248Deviled Eggs, 4·81dew point, 1·325, 2·154

on psychrometric charts, how to read, 1·323

Dewar, James, 1·60, 66Dewar � asks

for liquid nitrogen storage, 2·458Marshall and demonstration of, 1·60safe handling of, 2·467venting, 2·466

DFD (dry � rm dark), early rigor mortis and, 3·35

DI (deionized) water, 1·335espresso-making and, 4·384hydrating ion-coagulated gels and,


diabetes, vegan diet and, 1·244Diamond, Jared, 3·268diaphragm, as sausage binder, 3·222–223diarrhea

bacterial dispersal and, 1·134pathogens causing, 1·114, 126, 138,

155traveler’s, 1·129

Díaz del Castillo, Bernal, 1·13Dickens, Charles, 5·125

on partridge, 5·132Diet and Reinfarction Trial (DART 1),

1·232Dietary Approaches to Stop

Hypertension (DASH) trials, 1·234, 236, 237

dietary systemsdietary � ber in, 1·214–217medical, 1·222–239nonmedical, 1·240–249as rules for eating, 1·211testing disease risk and, 1·218–221,

258diets

of animals, meat tenderness and, 3·11Atkins, 1·242colorectal cancer and, 1·214–217DART 1, 1·232DASH, 1·234, 236, 237detox, 1·248fat in. See fat, dietary� ber in. See � ber, dietarygrapefruit, 1·240–241LEARN, 1·242low-carbohydrate, 1·242low-fat, 1·241Mediterranean, 1·232, 241, 242Shangri-La, 1·241South Beach, 1·242Spectrum, 1·242vegan, 1·244weight loss, 1·240–241

di� erential scanning calorimeter (DSC), 1·268

di� usionaccelerating in brining or curing,

3·166–167in alcohol-based marinades, 3·195,

198in brining, 3·154, 156, 158in curing, 3·154, 160, 162, 164, 165in drying with salt and sugar, 3·346Fick’s law of, 2·283, 290, 343in marinating, 3·190of water through food, drying

actions and, 2·428di� usivity, thermal

in cookware, 1·278of foods and various materials,

1·280–281

digestionof ca� eine, 4·363of carbon dioxide, 2·464of raw plants, biology of, 3·269of starches, 4·20

digital scalesgram-type, 1·94–95for measuring hydrocolloids, 4·38for Modernist kitchen, 2·286pocket-type, for measuring

thickeners, 4·23digital thermometers

accuracy issues with, 1·206–207for Modernist kitchen, 2·286for sous vide cooking, 2·240for testing refrigerator hot and cold

spots, 2·257diglycerides, 4·216–217dill

Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161,

165Dill Spheres, 4·130

Dioscorides, Pedanius, 1·11Diphyllobothrium latum, 1·124dipole molecules, 1·330Dippin’ Dots, 1·61, 72discoloration, when cooking cured meat

or seafood, 3·165disease names, etymology of, 1·119dish towels, cross-contamination and,

1·200disodium 5’ guanylate, 3·160disodium 5’ inosinate, 3·160dispersed phase

in emulsions, 4·199, 205in foams, 4·243ratio of continuous phase to, 4·205

dispersingapproaches to, 4·20, 22of cellulosic gums, 4·127of hydrocolloids

for gelling, 4·124for thickening, 4·38

of thickeners, how to, 4·24dissolved materials. See also solubility

boiling point and, 1·318freezing and, 1·304–305reductions of, 4·11

distillation, 2·384–394example recipes for, 2·389Genevac Rocket Evaporator for,

2·391–395invention of, 2·390for purifying water, 1·335rotary evaporator for, 2·384–391U.S. laws on, 1·94, 2·384, 391vacuum, 2·380. See also rotary

evaporatorsDNA

testing genetic origins of grapes using, 4·326, 327

in viruses, 1·152DOC (Denominazione di Origine

Controllata), 4·332DOCG (Denominazione di Origine

Controllata e Garantita), 4·332Don’t Forget Fiber in Your Diet (Burki� ),

1·214doorknobs, personal hygiene and, 1·200dose standard, for espresso shots, 4·380dosing, in espresso-making, 4·378, 380double ristre� o, evolution of, 4·379


I N D E X L X X I

EGG WHITES Edouble stocks, 2·290double-blind trials

for nutritional studies, 1·218–219in wine tasting, 4·340, 342

double-disc mills, 2·404Dover sole, aging e� ects on, 3·40DQ curing salt, 3·158dra� , � re and, 2·7drag, convection baking and, 2·110dragon fruit, compressing and


draining, in foams, 4·249Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine,

5·267, 270dried fermented sausages, 3·246, 250drip co� ee maker, automatic, 4·368drippings

� ares from, aluminum foil in grills and, 2·15

� avor of grilled food and, 2·12dry boxes, 2·431, 434–435. See also

dryingdry � rm dark (DFD), early rigor mortis

and, 3·35dry ice, 2·458

carbonating fruit with, 2·472carbonating liquids with, 2·464freezing using, 1·310, 311safe handling of, 2·464, 466sublimation and, 1·326suppliers of, 2·458tru� es, storing with, 2·471

dry process, for co� ee, 4·358dry rubs

basic, parametric recipe for, 3·169best bets for, 3·168, 169functional ingredients in, 3·155Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68parametric recipe for, 3·168–172sweet, parametric recipe for, 3·169

dry-aging meat, 3·41how to, 3·42

dry-bulb temperaturebraising or pot-roasting in ovens

and, 2·96consistent baking and, 2·111in CVap water-vapor oven,

2·158–159in deep-frying, 2·116ordinary ovens and, 2·155preheating to, 2·103on psychrometric charts, how to

read, 1·323in Rational combi oven, 2·164–165relative humidity and, 1·322smoking and, 3·211wet-bulb temperature vs., 2·96, 102,

106, 112dry-curing

equilibrium, 3·165for food preservation, 3·152osmosis and, 3·154salinity for, 3·160

dryers, vacuum, 2·430, 433, 436–437dry-grinding, equipment for,

2·401–402, 404, 407drying, 2·428–455. See also curing

in baking, stages of, 2·106–108characteristics of, 2·428with cold, dry air, 1·326, 328in cold-smoking, 2·143

drying (continued)in combi oven, convection mode for,

2·168crisping skin and, 3·123desiccants and, 2·428desiccation zone and

in baking, 2·107, 108in steak frying, 3·74

equipment for, 2·286freeze-drying and. See freeze-dryingby hunter-gatherers, 1·6liquid smoke and, 2·149of meat and seafood, 3·152–189of plant foods, 3·365–373progressive smoking and, 2·148rehydration and, physics of, 1·321ripening of cured meat or seafood

and, 3·173with salt and sugar, 3·344, 346, 348spray-drying and, 2·438–443

equipment for, 2·285, 430method for, 2·442

strategies for, 2·430tapeworms and, 1·124vacuum-assisted, 1·321, 2·215vacuum-drying and, 2·430, 433,

436–437with warm air, 2·431–433, 434–435

DSC (di� erential scanning calorimeter), 1·268

Ducasse, AlainAsparagus Royale recipe, 4·94Gras, Laurent and, 1·69Jus de la Presse recipe, 2·347on Modernist cuisine, 1·63New International cuisine and, 1·30,

31Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard

Marmalade and Porcini recipe, 3·97

sous vide cooking and, 1·42duck


for, 3·99, 108cryorendering before vacuum

packing, 2·268cryosearing, how to, 3·124–125curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172Duck Apicius plated-dish recipe,

5·121–123Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay

Leaf, 5·109, 110Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes

Sarladaises, 3·178foie gras and. See foie grasmeat color of chicken vs., 3·16–17Moulard, for foie gras production,

3·138Sous Vide Duck Con� t Pavé, 5·81,

82Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87

duck eggsCentury Egg, 4·83Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220

duck fat, chemistry of, 2·126duck foie gras. See foie grasDuck Leg Con� t with Pommes

Sarladaises, 3·178duck skin

how to precook, 3·82leaving extra during butchery of,

3·116, 118

duck stock, parametric recipe for, 2·296–298

duck tonguecooking of, 3·141

sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146

Crispy Duck Tongues, 5·81, 84Du� y, Curtis, 1·69Dufresne, Wylie

Achatz’s meal at elBulli and, 1·38, 52Aerated Foie Gras recipe, 4·311Almond Polenta recipe, 4·36Avocado Puree recipe, 5·205, 207Barbecued Eel with Whipped

Caramel recipe, 4·283Beignet of Sauce Ravigote recipe,

5·49, 51Cheese Pu� s recipe, 4·305cold gels and, 4·140, 144Corn Pebbles recipe, 4·36Crispy Cream Cheese recipe, 4·63Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico� a

Dumpling recipe, 5·273, 274critics on, 1·63Deep-Fried Hollandaise recipe,

4·228on dehydrating fruits and vegetables,

3·366Edamame Sheets, King Crab,

Cinnamon Dashi recipe, 4·118Edible Earth recipe, 4·37Egg Salad Sandwich recipe, 4·90Fermented Shrimp Sheets recipe,

5·167, 168freeze � ltration and, 2·369Gruyère Spheres recipe, 4·190Hanger Steak Tartare recipe, 3·65Horseradish Foam recipe, 4·284Instant Tofu Noodles recipe, 4·172Knot Foie recipe, 4·144Modernist cuisine and, 1·62, 67, 69molded egg yolk tubes of, 4·90–91Popcorn Pudding recipe, 4·181Skate Pavé with Bread Crust recipe,

5·157Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87Steingarten on, 1·65Sunny-Side Up “Eggs” and,

14·148–149dulse, 5·28dumplings. See also gnocchi

Buckwheat Pelmeni, 5·233, 237Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico� a

Dumpling, 5·273, 274Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105soup, about, 5·254Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke),

4·117, 5·55, 59Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade,

4·169Dunlop, Fuchsia, Gong Bao Chicken

recipe, 3·205Durand, Peter, 2·75Durand-Ruel, Paul, 1·19dynamic viscosity, 4·6

EEast Texas BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 69Eating Quality Assured beef-grading

system, Australia, 3·39echinoderms, 3·30ecograstronomy, of Slow Food, 1·23École de La Varenne, 4·322–325ecological studies, of nutrition, 1·220Edamame Sheets, King Crab,

Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118edge sealers, 2·222–224

chamber sealers vs., 2·222common problems with, 2·223for Modernist kitchen, 2·284rigid containers and, 2·226–227vacuum packing with, 2·224

Edible Bar Soap with Honey Bubbles, 4·267

“edible earth”Edible Earth, 4·37Redzepi and, 3·294

edible � lms, 4·6best bets for, 4·60Edible Wrappers, 4·62parametric recipe for, 4·60

edible glasses, 4·6dehydrating formula for, 3·367Pineapple Glass, 3·370Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123

eelBarbecued Eel with Whipped

Caramel, 4·283cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102e� ciency

energy, power and, 1·274–276heat transfer coe� cient and, 1·283

Egg Blossom, 4·80egg emulsions, example recipes for,

4·226–229egg gels, 4·74–101

blendedbest bets for, 4·92parametric recipe for, 4·92

example recipes for, 4·80–81, 83, 86–91, 93–99, 101

parametric recipe for, 4·116–117separated


Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90egg white custard, parametric recipe for,

4·85egg whites

droplets of, parametric recipe for, 4·85

as � ning agents, 2·358–360for � uid gels, 4·176foams formed from, 4·247Fried Egg Foam, 5·211, 212Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,

4·294with myosin for meat glue, 3·250proteins of, as foaming agent, 4·244for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297Steamed Blancmange, 4·296


L X X I I I N D E X

EGG WHITESEegg whites (continued)

texture of, temperature and, 4·76–77

as thermo-irreversible gels, 4·70egg yolks

Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233Cauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89Con� t Egg-Yolk Puree, 5·147, 148Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228droplets of, parametric recipe for,

4·85Dufresne’s molded tubes of, 4·90–91Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90Egg Yolk Con� t, 5·211, 213for � uid gels, 4·176

parametric recipe for, 4·177Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250Gruyère Sou� é, 4·301for light foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·270Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88proteins of, as foaming agent, 4·244Sauce Allemande, 4·88Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289as sliceable gel, 4·74

parametric recipe for, 4·85Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune

Sabayon, 3·363Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise,

4·228Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227Steamed Blancmange, 4·296as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·226temperature, and texture of, 4·76–77

Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234, 5·157Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232eggplant


Eggplant Foam, 4·280impregnating, parametric recipe for,


3·348smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362Stu� ed Smoky Braised Eggplant,

5·99eggplant chips, parametric recipe for,

3·328eggs, 4·83. See also duck eggs; egg gels;

egg whites; egg yolks; quail eggsallergies to, 1·238baked, two-stage, parametric recipe

for, 4·85baked-good foams and, 4·245boiled, 2·63Chawanmushi, 4·96cold-smoked, parametric recipe for,

4·100cooked whole, 4·74–75

parametric recipe for, 4·78–79Cromesquis, 3·340Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228Deviled Eggs, 4·81Dufresne’s obsession with, 1·67Egg Blossom, 4·80Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·88Eggs Benedict, 4·86emulsions of, 4·226–229fat content of, 5·XLIII

eggs (continued)faux

“Poached” Egg, 4·195Prosciu� o and Melon “Raw Egg,”

4·194FDA Food Code on, 1·184, 185–186,

187Salmonella and, 1·183, 185

FDA safe cooking standards for, 1·170� uid gel properties of, 4·16� uid gels based on, 4·176

development of, 1·66, 68parametric recipe for, 4·177

foam forming with, 4·247, 251, 255Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

2·451French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93fried, two-stage, parametric recipe

for, 4·85Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227hot-spring (onsen), 4·75

parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78L’Arpège egg, 5·211Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220marinated in vinegar, 4·75Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87Omelet Base, 5·215, 217omelets in combi oven vs.

conventional oven, 4·95pasteurization of, 1·191, 4·226

FDA Food Code and, 1·185pasteurized, parametric recipe for

cooking, 4·78peeling with liquid nitrogen, how to,

4·78pickled


plated-dish recipes for, 5·209–221poaching, physics of stirring pot

before, 2·67preserved


Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97safe cooking principles for, 1·194salmonella contamination of, 1·117as sausage binders, 3·223Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216simpli� ed cooking standards for,

1·192smoked, parametric recipe for, 4·100Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic

Emulsion, 4·227textures of, 4·76–77thickening with, 4·13volumetric equivalents for amounts

of, 5·XLIVEggs Benedict, 4·86eGullet.org, 1·73Egypt, ancient

foie gras production in, 1·13, 3·136food-related professions in, 1·7Herodotus on beans in, 1·12Horchata drinks in, 4·59locust bean gum used in, 4·124

Einstein, Albert, 1·264Ekman pumping, phenomenon of, 2·67elasticity, gel selection and, 4·73

elastinin abalone and cu� le� sh membranes,

3·52in gizzards, 3·141in heart meat, 3·142

elBulli. See also Adrià, Ferran� rst meal at, experience of, 1·38–39Modernist cuisine and, 1·33–40

elBullitaller, 1·35Elder Flower Vinegar, 2·315electric broilers

wood-� red oven-like performance by, 2·26–27

working features of, 2·20–21electric coils, e� ciency of, 1·274electric � elds

strong, to kill bacteria, 1·149wine storage and, 4·345

electric griddles, 2·40electric whisks, foam forming with,

4·258, 4·259elements, physics of color indicators of

temperature and, 1·291elk

chronic wasting disease in, 1·159hunters, CJD-like disease in, 1·161

emetic agents, Bacillus cereus as, 1·138emission spectra

of blackbodies, 1·285physics of temperature and, 1·291

emissivityof graybodies, 1·286of radiation, 1·285

Emmental cheese, Restructured Emmental Slices, 5·11, 14

emulsi� cation. See also emulsi� ers; emulsions; emulsion-style sausages

Bancro� ’s rule on order for, 4·202mechanism of action, 4·200, 202,

204–205for thickening, 2·346, 4·19

emulsi� ers. See also emulsi� cation; emulsions

characteristics of, 4·200in deep-frying oil, 2·123, 125eggs as, 4·74immiscible substances and, 1·332oils and, 4·13surfactant, 4·216–217, 244

emulsions, 4·196–239. See also emulsi� cation; emulsi� ers

Black Bu� er Emulsion, 5·157, 158bu� er in, 4·218–220cheese as, 4·222–225common, 4·201constructed creams and, 4·236–237dairy, 4·218–229

example recipes for, 4·219–221de� nition of, 4·13droplet sizes in, 4·206egg, 4·226


failure of, 4·210–212foams vs., 4·249G/W (gas-in-water). See foamsHLB values and, chemistry of, 4·204of immiscible substances, 1·332methods for, 4·206–213microemulsions as, 4·205Modernist, 4·214–239nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239

example recipes for, 4·238–239

emulsions (continued)science of, 4·205

optics of, physics of, 4·203other types of, example recipes for,

4·230–235particle size reduction for, 2·398reductions of, 4·11science of, 4·200, 202, 204–205stabilizers for, 4·215for thickening, 4·7thickening and longevity of, 4·5tools for, 4·208types of, 4·199vinaigre� es as, 4·230–231viscosity and, 4·204–205wet-grinding and, 2·412

emulsion-style sausagesbest bets for, 3·238–239characteristics of, 3·222, 225Emulsi� ed Sausage with Fat Gel,

3·248example recipes for, 3·242–243grinding fat and meat separately for,

3·231parametric recipe for, 3·238–239

endemic pathogens, 1·110endive, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·289endomysium, 3·6energy. See also heat; temperature

in animal fat, 3·18converting power units and, 1·273de� ning, 1·264e� ciency and, 1·274–276heat and, 1·263internal, 1·264–265of phase changes by water,

1·300–303power and, 1·272–273

en� euragefor � avor extraction, 2·320solids as solvents in, 1·330technique of, 2·323

England. See also United Kingdomearly gastronomy of, 1·8history of French chefs in, 1·8medieval cuisine in, 1·12

English peas. See green peasenoki mushrooms



Entamoeba histolytica, 1·129enteritis necroticans, 1·141enthalpy, 1·300–301. See also latent heat

of vaporizationenvelope, of viruses, 1·152environmental contamination, 1·116,

117Enviro-Pak smoker, 2·147enzymes

aging meats and, 3·39, 41carbonation taste and, 2·465clarifying juice or broth with, 2·352cooking meat and seafood and, 3·76,

78–79as � ning agents, 2·358freezing to halt action of, 3·136, 140fruit � avors and, 2·338as gel coagulants, 4·70gelling agents from, 4·126juice extraction with, 2·335, 336


I N D E X L X X I I I

EXAMPLE RECIPES FOR COOKING PLANT FOODS UNDER PRESSURE Eenzymes (continued)

in liver, 3·138for marinating, 3·195in plant foods, 3·282–284protein-spli� ing, in crustaceans,

3·28thickening with, 4·13, 19transglutaminase as. See Activa;

transglutaminaseEnzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 3·357epidemiology, nutritional, 1·218–220epimysium, 3·6equilibrium

drying with salt and sugar and, 3·346

thermal, cooking eggs to, 4·74, 75thermal energy transfer and, 1·266

equilibrium brining, 3·158how to, 3·170–171

equilibrium cookingin combi ovens, 2·167in water bath at core temperature,

2·243equilibrium dry-curing, 3·165equilibrium relative humidity, 2·430equilibrium vapor pressure, 1·320equilibrium wet-curing, 3·162, 165

how to, 3·170–171equipment. See also tools; speci� c types of

equipment; speci� c toolsfor broiling, 2·20–22for carbonation, 2·286chilling, for water baths, 2·285deep-frying, 2·287dry-grinding, 2·401–402, 404drying, 2·286for foams, 4·258–261freeze-drying, 2·285juicing, 2·332–335laboratory, local laws in U.S. on,

1·94milling, 2·401–402, 404. See also

colloid millspressure � ltration, 2·286sieving, 2·286smoking, 2·146–147, 285, 3·208sous vide, 2·228–241

for home use, 1·73spray-drying, 2·285, 430tenderizing, 2·286used in Modernist Cuisine, 1·93vacuum � ltration, 2·286, 356–357wet-grinding, 2·412–414

erg, 1·272Erice Conferences on Molecular and

Physical Gastronomy, 1·44–46, 65erobertparker.com, 4·330escabeche, Oyster Escabeche, 5·205,

206Escherich, � eodor, 1·112Escherichia coli, 1·116, 134, 137Escherichia coli O157:H7

foodborne illnesses and, 1·118–119outbreak of 2006, politics of, 1·172pathogenicity of, 1·132public health o� cials on outbreak of,

1·169–170temperature for reproduction of,

1·143, 144wine marinade with oregano and,

1·145Esco� er, Auguste

aspics of, 4·68

Esco� er, Auguste (continued)chaudfroid and, 4·151culinary rules and codes of, 1·5, 9,

19–20, 27on food presentation, 1·25introducing Modernist cuisine to,

1·56–57meat embedded in gelatin by, 3·250Sauce Allemande recipe, 4·88stockmaking by, 2·288

escolarabout, 5·175cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102Escolar with Red Wine Bu� er, 3·104Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard,

5·175, 176espresso, 4·372–390

art of milk and, 4·391–395brewing temperature for, skill for

choosing, 4·385consistency in, 4·396–403cooking with, technique of, 4·371crema on

age of roasted co� ee beans and, 4·361

carbon dioxide and, 4·384chemistry of, 4·388

crotchless porta� lters for, advantages of, 4·385

deca� einated co� ee beans and, 4·363

dosing of, 4·378, 380God shot of. See God shotgrinding beans for. See co� ee beans,

grinding for espresso; espresso grinders

grooming porta� lter for. See grooming espresso porta� lters

instant, 4·371invention of, history of, 4·372in Italy, sociology of, 4·374machines for making. See espresso

machinesNorthern Italian roast of beans for,

4·360pod and capsule systems for,

technology of, 4·400pressure pro� ling and, technology

of, 4·400pulling the shot and, 4·384, 388

common problems with, 4·389how to, 4·386–387

serving temperature of, 4·364single, double, and triple shots of,

evolution of, 4·379stream of, monitoring, 4·384, 387,

388tamping and

evenly, how to, 4·382reasons for, 4·383–384

taxonomy of, 4·393tradition of, in cooking, 1·14

Espresso Co� ee: Professional Techniques (Schomer), 4·399

espresso con panna, 4·393espresso grinders

how to use, 4·377for Modernist kitchen, 2·287

espresso machinesautomatic brewing option of, 4·384cleaning, how to, 4·397cutaway illustration of, 4·402–403

espresso machines (continued)hand-operated vs. electric, 4·372for Modernist kitchen, 2·287pressure pro� ling and, technology

of, 4·400Synesso, 4·372, 374

Espresso Vivace, 4·374, 396, 398, 399essences, aromatic, 2·318–331. See also

extracting � avorsin alcohol, best bets for, 2·326best bets for, 2·325citrus oil, how to wash, 2·321en� eurage and, 2·323extracting, 2·318, 320high quality, 1·250, 252natural, safe handling of, 2·324rotavap for distillation of,

2·384–391supercritical � uid extraction of,

2·320working with, 2·322

essential oils. See also essences, aromaticfor brining or curing, 3·158commercial uses for, 2·318steam distillation of, 2·318, 320

Estragues, Sergi, 4·184ethanol. See alcohol (ethanol); spirits;

speci� c alcoholic beveragesethics, of copying dishes, 1·71ethyl alcohol. See alcohol (ethanol);

spirits; speci� c alcoholic beveragesethylene gas, fruit ripening and,

3·283–284, 285E� ore Majorana Foundation and

Center for Scienti� c Culture, 1·44–46, 65

Europe. See also European Union; speci� c countries

lack of meat-grading system in, 3·36, 39

European Unionon food safety, 1·182food safety disclaimer rules of,

1·178trade dispute on food products and,

1·173evaporation, 1·314–325. See also water

vaporadding cream to co� ee and, 1·289during baking, 2·103, 107blowing on hot food and, 1·288boiling and, 1·315–319concentrating by, 2·379de� nition of, 1·314with Genevac Rocket Evaporator,

2·391–395humidity and, 1·319–321meat tenderness lost in braising or

pot-roasting and, 2·98as reduction, 4·11steam and, 1·319vacuum

for concentrating � avor, 2·380for reducing sauces, jus, or glazes,

2·346of wine, 4·330

vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215evaporative cooling

humidity and, 1·319–320oven temperatures and, 2·155

evapotranspiration, winemaking and, 4·329

Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130

example recipes for acidi� ersElder Flower Vinegar, 2·315Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315

example recipes for ba� er-frying� e Colonel’s Chicken, 3·336Crispy Halibut Cheek, 3·334–335Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337

example recipes for breadingCromesquis, 3·340Onion Rings, 3·342–343, 5·11

example recipes for brothsBacon Dashi, 2·308Baked Potato Broth, 2·309Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308Ham Broth, 2·306Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197Laksa Broth, 2·307Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303Tom Yum Broth, 2·309

example recipes for carbonatingOrange Soda, 2·472Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11

example recipes for centrifugal evaporator, Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394

example recipes for centrifugingCentrifuged Carotene Bu� er, 2·365,

5·185Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil,

2·367Tomato Water, 2·366, 5·5, 60

example recipes for compressed and impregnated fruits and vegetables

Clay Potatoes, 3·398Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3·393Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401Pulled Mushroom, 3·396Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso� o,

3·397Vegetable Coals, 3·395Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285

example recipes for consomméApple Cider Consommé, 2·377Oxtail Consommé, 2·376Pistachio Consommé, 2·376

example recipes for constructed cheeses� e American Cheese Slice, 4·224Cheddar Soup, 4·225Cheese in a Tube, 4·225Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225

example recipes for constructed creamsHazelnut “Cream,” 4·236Jus Gras, 4·237Pistachio Gelato, 4·236

example recipes for cooking innardsAnkimo Torchon, 3·147Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150Foie Gras and Bu� on Mushroom

Tart, 3·148Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice

and Sea Le� uce, 3·149Sweetbreads with Sour Mango

Powder and Shiitake, 3·151example recipes for cooking plant foods

under pressureAutoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3·301Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds,

3·303, 5·181


L X X I V I N D E X

E EXAMPLE RECIPES FOR COOKING SKIN

example recipes for cooking skinMonk� sh with Constructed Skin,

3·132Pu� ed Chicken Feet, 3·133Pu� ed Cockscomb, 3·133Ultracrisp Chicken Crown,

3·134–135example recipes for cooking with moist

airCantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2·180Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli,

2·181example recipes for cures

Bacon Chips with Bu� erscotch, Apple, and � yme, 3·189

Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 3·183

Con� t Cure Mix, 3·179Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola

Style,” 3·185Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes

Sarladaises, 3·178Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181Foie Gras Torchon, 3·176Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3·179Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151Sea Urchin Bo� arga, 3·186Seafood Paper, 3·188Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177

example recipes for dairy and tofu gelsBurmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121Corn Custard, 4·122Deep-Fried Custard, 4·120Edamame Sheets, King Crab,

Cinnamon Dashi, 4·118Firm Tofu, 4·112Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105Goat Milk Rico� a, 4·108Green Pea Yuba, 4·115Idiazábal Gnocchi, 4·123Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and

Tru� e Puree, 4·114Modernist Burrata, 4·109Mozzarella Balloons, 4·110–111Peanut “Tofu,” 4·122Salmon Custard, 4·119Silken Tofu, 4·113Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke),

4·117, 5·55, 59example recipes for dairy emulsions

Beet Flexicurd, 4·219Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier

Bu� er, 4·220Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221Poached Lobster, 4·219Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219

example recipes for dehydrated fruits and vegetables

Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368Mandarin Leather, 3·369Pineapple Glass, 3·370Spinach Paper, 3·369Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371

example recipes for distillingBuddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and

Cabbage Juice, 2·389

example recipes for egg emulsionsBacon Jam, 4·229Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic

Emulsion, 4·227Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise,

4·228Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227

example recipes for egg gelsAsparagus Royale, 4·94for blended egg gels, 4·93–99Cauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89Century Egg, 4·83Chawanmushi, 4·96Chorizo French Toast, 4·98–99for cooked whole eggs, 4·80–81Dashimaki Tamago, 4·94Deviled Eggs, 4·81Egg Blossom, 4·80Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90Eggs Benedict, 4·86French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87Olive Marmalade, 4·99Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88Pecorino with Tru� e Honey on

Cedar, 4·101Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83for preserved and pickled eggs, 4·83Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97Sauce Allemande, 4·88for separated egg gels, 4·86–91Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101for smoked eggs, 4·101

example recipes for emulsion-style sausages

Boudin Blanc, 3·243Frankfurters, 3·242Italian Sausage, 3·242

example recipes for extracting � avor with alcohol

Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327House Bi� ers, 2·327

example recipes for fermented sausageFast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247Saucisson Sec, 3·247

example recipes for � sh and shell� sh sous vide

Escolar with Red Wine Bu� er, 3·104Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused

Milk, 3·10319th-Century-Style Lobster with

Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel

Salad, 3·106Turbot with Onion and Marrow

Broth, 3·105example recipes for � avor infusion into

fatsCurry Oil, 2·331Molasses Bu� er, 2·331Shell� sh Bu� er, 2·329Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330

example recipes for � avor-infused liquids, Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313

example recipes for � uid gelsFizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183Hot and Cold Tea, 4·182

example recipes for � uid gels (continued)Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180Onion Fluid Gel, 4·183Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180Popcorn Pudding, 4·181Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 4·183

example recipes for freeze-dried vegetables

Caesar Salad, 3·373Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373,

5·261example recipes for freeze-drying

Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 2·454

Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454,

5·185example recipes for froths, airs, and

bubblesCappuccino Foam, 4·266Citrus Air, 4·265Edible Bar Soap with Honey

Bubbles, 4·267Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 4·266Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus

Foam, 4·269Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268Oysters with Mignone� e Air, 4·265

example recipes for fruit and vegetable chips

Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330Watermelon Chips, 3·328

example recipes for fruit purees, Pistachio Puree, 2·427

example recipes for frying vegetablesDeep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 3·321Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries,

3·325Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11

example recipes for grinding, milling, and pureeing

Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403Citrus Spice, 2·404Exotic Spice Mixture, 2·405Indies Spice Blend, 2·403Licorice Powder, 2·405Quatre Épices, 2·403, 5·35, 125Ras el Hanout, 2·405Romesco Sauce, 2·419Shrimp and Grits, 3·377

example recipes for hot- and cold-smoked meats and seafood

Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212Smoked Octopus, 3·215

example recipes for hydrocolloid gelsAgar Carbonara, 4·161Boeuf in Gelée, 4·163Cauli� ower Panna Co� a, 4·142Chili Pearls, 4·145for cold gels, 4·141–149Crimini in Amber, 4·154Dill Spheres, 4·130Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade,

4·169Everything Bagel Broth, 4·130Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 4·152

example recipes for hydrocolloid gels (continued)

Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159

Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145Halibut in Verbena Bubble,

4·156–157Hot Banana Gel, 4·166Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166Hot Orange Gel, 4·167Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172Knot Foie, 4·144Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 4·141Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin,

4·175Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 4·147Olive Oil Noodles, 4·146Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito

Stock Veil, 4·168Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155Shell� sh Custard, 4·162Squid Ink Fluid Gel, 4·131Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 4·148–149Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o,

4·143example recipes for hydrocolloid

thickenersBBQ Caramels, 4·62Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,

4·54Caramelized Coconut Cream, 4·50Creamed Spinach, 4·55Crispy Cream Cheese, 4·63Edible Wrappers, 4·62Ham Consommé with Melon Beads,

4·48Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59House Barbecue Sauce, 4·49, 5·67Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57Lemon Strips, 4·61Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57Olive Oil Spread, 4·51Pressure-Cooked Polenta with

Strawberry Marinara, 4·50Soy Milk, 4·58Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49Tru� e Jus, 4·53Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto

Salad, 4·53White Grape Syrup, 4·52XO Sauce, 4·52

example recipes for infusing essences, Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321

example recipes for juicingGreen Asparagus and Morels with

Asparagus Jus, 2·341Melon Water, 2·340Meyer Lemonade, 2·340Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340

example recipes for jusJus de la Presse, 2·347Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25Mushroom Jus, 2·348Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349


I N D E X L X X V

EEXUDATE GUM

example recipes for jus (continued)Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347

example recipes for light foamsBlood Orange Foam, 4·272Corn Foam, 4·273Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth,

4·273Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,

4·275Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam,

4·276Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot

Sabayon, 4·274Whipped Cheese, 4·272

example recipes for marinatingBeet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233Chicken Tikka Masala, 3·204Fluke Ceviche, 3·203Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205Kalbi Flank Steak, 3·199Lute� sk, 3·200Tuna Ribbons with Ginger

Marmalade, 3·202Yakitori, 3·201

example recipes for microwaved vegetables

Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313Tomato Powder, 3·312

example recipes for Modernist sausagesCoarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248Emulsi� ed Sausage with Fat Gel,

3·248Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249

example recipes for nanoemulsionsChilled Chicken-Noodle Soup,

4·238Ginger Cola, 4·239

example recipes for other emulsionsBlack Olive Puree, 4·230Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232Invincible Vinaigre� e, 4·231Mustard Vinaigre� e, 4·231Olive Oil “Margarine,” 4·235Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage,

4·233� ickened Oil, 4·230

example recipes for PacojetFrozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder,

2·411Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 2·411Mozzarella Powder, 2·411Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410

example recipes for pastaHerb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 3·383,

5·253Mac and Cheese, 3·387Pad � ai, 3·385Pasta Marinara, 3·386Semolina Pasta, 3·382Spaghe� i Carbonara, 3·384

example recipes for pastas, Semolina Pasta, 3·382

example recipes for potato purees, Potato Puree, 3·296

example recipes for pu� ed snacksBlack Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304Cheese Pu� s, 4·305Pommes Sou� ées, 4·306Pu� ed Chickpeas, 4·307Scallop Mochi, 4·308–309, 5·197,

202Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303

example recipes for riso� osPressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso� o,

3·308Riso� o Milanese, 3·306–307Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso� o,

3·308example recipes for Rocket Evaporator,

Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394example recipes for salting, pickling,

and fermentingCrispy Dosa, 3·355Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit,

3·357Garlic Con� t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81Kimchi, 3·352Nukazuke, 3·354Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135Sauerkraut, 3·351Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade,

3·356example recipes for set foams

Beet Meringue, 4·295Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300Green Olive Meringue, 4·298Green Tea Cake, 4·292Gruyère Sou� é, 4·301Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,

4·294Passion Fruit Marshmallow with

Chorizo Powder, 4·290Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297Soy Sauce Cloud, 4·299Steamed Blancmange, 4·296Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292

example recipes for smoked plant foods, Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon, 3·363

example recipes for spheri� cation, 4·194Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4·188Gruyère Spheres, 4·190Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193Melon Caviar, 4·189Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres,

4·191“Poached” Egg, 4·195Prosciu� o and Melon “Raw Egg,”

4·194Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil,

4·192example recipes for spray dryer

Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 2·443

Spray-Dried Bu� ermilk, 2·443example recipes for starch thickeners

Almond Polenta, 4·36Bacon Powder Squares, 4·34Corn Pebbles, 4·36Edible Earth, 4·37Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31Malt Vinegar Powder, 4·34Modernist Béchamel, 4·31

example recipes for starch thickeners (continued)

Parmesan Nuggets, 4·35Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté,

4·32� anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33Turkey Wing, 4·33Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35

example recipes for stocksBrown Beef Stock, 2·301Brown Veal Stock, 2·300Pressure-Cooked White Chicken

Stock, 2·301Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303

example recipes for tartares and raw meat

Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65Red-Onion Cream, 3·68Salmon Tartare Cornets, 3·68Scallop Tartare, 3·67

example recipes for tender meats sous vide

Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97

Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98example recipes for tender poultry sous

videPigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion

and Water Chestnuts, 3·101example recipes for thick foams

Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193Barbecued Eel with Whipped

Caramel, 4·283Chocolate Chantilly, 4·281Coconut Chutney Foam, 4·282Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 4·283Eggplant Foam, 4·280Horseradish Foam, 4·284Hot Bu� er Foam, 4·283Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284Uni with Whipped Tofu and

Tapioca, 4·285Whipped Bu� er, 4·286Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato

Chips, 4·287example recipes for tough meats and

shell� shMicrowaved Tilapia with Scallions

and Ginger, 3·115Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked

Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111

Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 3·113Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot

and Orange Sauce, 3·110example recipes for vacuum-set foams

Aerated Chocolate, 4·313Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311Aerated Gruyère, 4·312Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311

example recipes for vegetable pureesBlack Tru� e Concentrate, 2·427,

5·216Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree,

2·426

example recipes for vegetable purees (continued)

Celery Root Mousseline, 2·427, 5·126

Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5exoskeletons, of crustaceans, 3·28, 30Exotic Spice Mixture, 2·405experimental cooking, McGee on,

1·57–58exponential growth, of bacteria, 1·142exsanguination, 3·32extenders, in sausage, 3·226extracellular � uid, in raw foods,

1·305–306extracting � avors, 2·288–317. See also

essences, aromaticacidi� ers and, 2·314–316with alcohol, 2·317

example recipes for, 2·327parametric recipe for, 2·326

co� ee brewing and, 4·364cryoextraction of wine and, 2·396infused liquids, 2·310measuring salinity and, 2·313pressure-cooking for, 2·291–295salt for seasoning and, 2·312science of best tasting � avors and,

2·299size of ingredients and, 2·290–291sous vide technique of, 2·251for stocks, 2·296–298stocks as basis for sauces and, 2·288

extraction percentage, brewing control chart on, 4·366–367

extracts, in alcohol, best bets for using, 2·325

exudate gum, 4·19


L X X V I I N D E X

FACULTATIVE ANAEROBIC BACTERIAFFfacultative anaerobic bacteria, 1·130,

138Fahrenheit 451 (Bradbury), 2·137Fahrenheit temperature scale, 1·266,

285Fair Trade co� ee, 4·361falling-rate period

in baking, 2·107–108in deep-frying, 2·116, 117

Faraday, Michael, 1·60Farce Royale, 5·126, 132Farm Direct, Fair Trade co� ee and,

4·361farmer’s cheese, parametric recipe for,

4·104farming, early civilization and

development of, 1·6–7fascicles, 3·6, 8, 11Fasciola gigantica, 1·123Fasciola hepatica, 1·123fascioliasis, 1·123fast food

corporate control of, 1·22–24development of, 1·20–22

fast hot-spring eggs, parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78

fast hot-spring quail eggs, parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78

Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247fast-fermented sausages, 3·246fast-twitch muscles

fat content and, 3·18in � sh, 3·21in meat, 3·11–12

meat color and, 3·14–15in scallops, 3·26slow-twitch muscles vs., 3·11–12

fat, dietarybene� cial forms of, 1·231–232, 234chemistry of, 1·233cholesterol and, 1·222, 224–227colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214heart disease and, 1·229–230obesity and, 1·243trans fat as, 1·230–231

� e Fat Duck. See also Blumenthal, Heston

food poisoning at, 1·155food science and, 1·49–50plant food cooking at, 3·278

� e Fat Flush Plan (Gi� leman), 1·248fats

around kidneys, 3·141characteristics and cooking with,

3·144cooking vegetables sous vide with,

parametric recipe for, 3·292dietary. See fat, dietaryextracting � avor with, 2·323� avor infusion into, parametric

recipe for, 2·328–329� avor release and, 4·11as foam inhibitor, 4·257foams based on, 4·244, 247freeze-drying of, 2·447frictional heat and, 3·230grinding meat and, how to, 3·228in meat, 3·15, 18

� avor and, 3·87–88

fats (continued)rendering strategies for, 3·145saturated. See also cholesterol

characteristics of, 1·222French cuisine and, 1·228

in sausage, 3·223, 224–225in seafood, � avor and, 3·87–88separating from cream, 2·366, 368smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362smoking meat or seafood and, 2·145subcutaneous

cooking issues for, 3·118rendering, 3·122

as tough cut, science of, 3·83truite au bleu and, 3·40in tuna, 3·21volumetric equivalents for amounts

of, 5·XLIVin Wagyu beef, 3·19, 36washing, for � avor extraction,

2·320–321whipped cream and, 4·244

fa� y acidscharacteristics of, 1·222research on health and, 1·234

faucet aspirators, 2·284, 356faucet handles, personal hygiene and,

1·200fava beans


Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees,

5·171, 173FDA. See FDA Food Code; U.S. Food

and Drug Administration (FDA)FDA Food Code

on cooking timesfor beef, 1·121for chicken, 1·180, 181for lamb, 1·121for pork, 1·121, 179, 180speci� c cooking times and

temperatures and, 1·184–189on “danger zone,” 1·175–179di� erent foods and di� erent rules of,

1·174–175egg pasteurization and, 1·185Salmonella time and temperature

curves, 1·187on temperature but not time of

cooking, 1·174temperature rounding in, 1·174on thermal death curves, 1·182–189understanding, 1·182–189

fecal contaminationanimal, 1·116–117hygiene and, 1·196–197, 200plant foods and, 1·197

fecal load, foodborne illnesses and, 1·115–116

fecal-oral route, for foodborne pathogens, 1·116

feline spongiform encephalopathy, 1·159

femtograms, weight of bacteria in, 1·130fennel bulbs


Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel Salad, 3·106

fennel seed extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326

fermentationbacterial role in, 1·133–134in co� ee processing, 4·358drying with warm air and, 2·433example recipes for, 3·352, 357hydrocolloids from, 4·124marinating and, 3·198parametric recipe for, 3·348–349of plant foods, 3·344, 346in winemaking, 4·330

fermented pickles, parametric recipe for, 3·349

fermented sausagesbest bets for, 3·244–245characteristics of, 3·222example recipes for, 3·247history of, 3·246immune-compromised people and,

3·223other ingredients in, 3·226–227parametric recipe for, 3·244–245preparation of, 3·246, 250

Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 5·167, 168Fermento, for sausage, 3·227� ber, dietary

colorectal cancer and, 1·214–217heart disease and, 1·216plants and, 3·267research on colon cancer and, 1·217

Fick, Adolf, 2·290Fick’s law of di� usion, 2·283, 290, 343� ddlehead ferns, Stir-Fried Fiddlehead

Ferns, 5·113, 119� gs

compressing and impregnating, parametric recipe for, 3·390

Pickled Figs, 5·135, 137preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348� llers, sausage, 3·226, 231� lm boiling, 1·316� lm condensate, steaming and, 1·319,

2·70� lms, edible, 4·6

best bets for, 4·60Edible Wrappers, 4·62parametric recipe for, 4·60

� lter paperfor co� ee brewing, 4·368for vacuum � ltration, 2·354

� ltering, 2·350–377with agar, 2·372–373centrifuges for, 2·360–368for co� ee brewing, 4·368decanting wine and, 4·342, 343–344� ning agents for, 2·358, 360with gelatin ice, 2·368–371juice extraction and, 2·239by oysters, 3·27pressure, 2·353–355separating emulsions with, 4·212straining and sieving for, 2·351, 353strategies for, 2·352uses of, 2·351vacuum, 2·286, 4·352–358

description of, 2·352, 358, 4·353–354

equipment for, 2·286, 356–357how to, 2·357of wine, 4·344

Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327

� ningagents for, 2·358–360with bentonite or polyclar, 2·352

� no sherry, Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116� re

dra� and, 2·7for smoking, 3·208, 211

� re bricks, as graybodies, 1·286Firm Tofu, 4·112Firmenich, 1·51Fischler, Claude, 1·26� sh. See also speci� c types of � sh

aging, 3·41allergies to, 1·238anisakid infections and, 1·122–123biology of, 3·22–23Bouillabaisse Broth, 2·308brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210combi ovens vs. water bath cooking

of, 2·167cooking

on bone, 2·243ideal temperature for, 3·89

cooking sous videbest bets for, 3·102example recipes for, 3·103–106parametric recipe for, 3·102–103

curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172cu� ing, 3·52dissolved oxygen for, 1·332–333fat oxidation in, 2·201FDA Food Code on, 1·170, 184,

185–186, 187Fish and Chips plated-dish recipe,

5·143–145� at, � lleting, 3·57freezing, 1·194, 3·37freshwater, tapeworms and, 1·124frozen, 3·37ike jime slaughtering of, 3·35, 37Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus

Foam, 4·269plated-dish recipes for, 5·141–177safe cooking principles for, 1·191Seafood Paper, 3·188simpli� ed freezing

recommendations for, 1·192skin of. See � sh skinslaughtering practices and, 3·35smoked, example recipe for, 3·212Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303sous vide for, 2·198spoiled, risks of, 1·139tender, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·102tough, example recipes for, 3·115trimmings, for searing � avor without

presearing, 2·268typical, fat content of, 5·XLIIIvacuum packing of, 2·212whole, reconstructing with Activa,

3·256� sh eyes, in thickening, 4·20, 27� sh � u, 1·124� sh roe. See also bo� arga; caviar


Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté,

4·32� sh sauce, Asian, 3·195


I N D E X L X X V I I

FOOD AND HEALTH DEBATES F� sh skin

cooking, 3·129–132crispy cooking of, 3·130

how to, 3·130slime as key to, 3·129sous vide, 3·131

pillows and, 3·131Salmon Skin Sou� é, 5·161, 163

Fish Spice Mix, 5·151, 154� sh stock, parametric recipe for,

2·296–297Fizz-Giz system, 3·198, 207� zziness. See also carbonation

science of taste of, 2·465unwanted associations with, 2·464

Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183� agella, of bacteria, 1·130Flame Firebox, Inverted, invention of,

3·208Flaming Sorbet, memory and nostalgia

in, 1·51� an, savory

parametric recipe for, 4·92Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101

� ash boiling, 1·317� ash points, of frying oils, 2·126� ash-freezing, 1·306–307� at� sh, � lleting, 3·57� atiron steak, seam cu� ing of, 3·47� avor-infused liquids

example recipe for, 2·313parametric recipe for, 2·310

� avorsalcohol and, 2·317arti� cial, food quality and, 1·250,

252best tasting, science of, 2·299bi� er, 5·226changes in frozen foods, chemistry

of, 2·261co� ee brewing and, 4·364, 366–370concentrating, 2·379–397of con� t, 2·128, 129cooking meat and seafood and, 3·84,

87–91of espresso, 4·384essences of. See essences, aromaticextracting. See essences, aromatic;

extracting � avorsfat molecules and, 3·18freeze � ltration and, 2·369freezing and, 1·304, 3·374of gazpacho, 5·278infusing with sous vide, 2·251infusion into fats


of Jell-O shot, 4·70of juice

how to keep fresh taste of, 2·339preserving fresh taste of, 2·338

of le� over meats, chemistry of, 3·91Maillard reaction and, 2·198, 3·89–91marinades and, 3·190nitrites in bacon and, 3·165o� , microbes and, 1·135pH of, measuring, 2·316plant food cooking and, 3·273, 278release of

gel selection and, 4·73modern thickeners and, 4·5thickener selection and, 4·10–11,

15, 17

� avors (continued)reusing deep-frying oil and, 2·123,

124roasting co� ee for, 4·358, 360–361of roux, cooked, 4·22salinity of, measuring, 2·313of saturated vs. unsaturated oils,

2·126savory, for French toast, 4·98seasoning with salt and other

enhancers of, 2·312size of ingredients and, 2·290–291of smoke

capturing, 2·138, 3·211chemistry of, 2·12

smoke rings and, 2·145sous vide and, 2·251taste testing and. See taste testingthickener selection and, 4·14water bath ho� er than target

temperature and, 2·245wine color and, 4·334–335, 338

Flay, Bobby, 1·30� ipping food

for sautéing, 2·46–47for speed and evenness in cooking,

2·38–39� occulation, as emulsion failure, 4·210,

212Flojel 60, thickening with, parametric

recipe for, 4·30� our

converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXVI

gluten as bread � our-binder and, 3·376

instant, thickening with, 4·22, 30milling of, 3·376organic food movement perception

of, 1·253rice, 3·376

rice � our pasta and, parametric recipe for, 3·381

sauces thickened by, � avor release and, 4·11

for set foams, parametric recipe for, 4·288–289

so� wheat, 5·13, 77volumetric equivalents for amounts

of, 5·XLIVWondra, thickening with, 4·22, 30

parametric recipe for, 4·30Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119� owers

Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368dehydrating, parametric recipe for,

3·366Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and

Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159� uid gels, 4·176–184

best bets for, 4·177characteristics of, 4·176coarse, 4·179cold foams as, 4·244–245concentrated premade stock gels

and, 4·179egg gels turned into, 4·74egg-based, 1·66example recipes for, 4·180–183� ow of, 4·70foam forming with, 4·255LA gellan gum concentrations for, 4·V

� uid gels (continued)parametric recipe for, 4·177–179quick-se� ing, 4·179as shear-thinning liquids, 4·16stock, premade, concentrated, 4·179as thickeners, 2·346, 4·19

� uidized bed freezing, 1·307. See also blast freezers

� uke (� sh)Fluke Ceviche, 3·203Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181

� ukes (worms), 1·123–124disease caused by, 1·120liver, 1·123–124salmon-poisoning � uke, 1·124

foaming agentsin beer, 4·250, 254categories of, 4·244foam stabilizers and, 4·257gelatin as, 4·244–245Modernist, 4·255traditional, 4·251

foam-whipping siphon. See whipping siphons

foams, 4·240–315. See also foaming agents

airs as, best bets for, 4·264antifoaming agents and. See

antifoaming agentsba� ers as, 3·316bubbles as, best bets for, 4·264Cauli� ower Foam, 5·281, 283emulsions vs., science of, 4·249equipment for, 4·258–261example recipes for, 4·266faces and aspects of, 4·262–263foaming agents and. See foaming

agentson food surface, sublimation and,

2·444forming, 4·252–315Fried Egg Foam, 5·211, 212froths as, best bets for, 4·264geometry of, 4·246Guinness beer and, 4·250–251Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244inhibitors of, 4·244, 247, 257light, 4·270–277

best bets for, 4·270example recipes for, 4·272–277parametric recipe for, 4·270

mechanism of action of, 4·244–251milk, for espresso, 4·391–395Milk Foam, 5·31, 33Modernist, 4·255Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231pu� ed snacks as, 4·302–309rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIIISa� ron Honey Foam, 5·94savory, Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 4·254Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216set. See set foamsspreading use of, 1·73stabilizers for

categories of, 4·244Modernist, 4·255for traditional foams, 4·247types of, 4·257

thick. See thick foamsfor thickening, 4·7, 19thickening and longevity of, 4·5Tomato Vinegar Foam, 5·60, 65traditional, 4·247

foams (continued)vacuum in� ation for forming, 4·252,

254, 310–315vacuum-drying and, 2·433

fog, steam compared to, 1·319, 2·71foie gras


Aerated Foie Gras, 4·311in ancient Egypt, 1·13, 3·136cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210cooking directly from frozen, 1·313cooking sous vide, 3·140

parametric recipe for, 3·146Cromesquis, 3·340Foie Gras à la Vapeur plated-dish

recipe, 5·109–111Foie Gras and Bu� on Mushroom

Tart, 3·148Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache,

5·125, 128Foie Gras Cherries, 4·153, 5·267,

268, 269Foie Gras Parfait, 5·267, 268, 269Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 4·152Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice

and Sea Le� uce, 3·149Foie Gras Torchon, 3·176Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and

Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159hepatic steatosis and, pathology of,

3·139history of, 3·138Knot Foie, 4·144liquid nitrogen for freezing,

1·310–311production of, 3·138, 140Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177Sous Vide Foie Gras, 5·109, 110Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage,

4·233Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98

Fonalleras, Josep Maria, 1·62fond, 2·343. See also stocksfood. See also speci� c foods and types of

foodsphysics of, 1·292–335. See also water

food allergies, 1·238–239Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

See FDA Food Code; U.S. Food and Drug Administration

food and health debates, 1·208–259on additives, 1·252–254on Atkins diet, 1·242on chemical processing of food,

1·250–252, 256on cleansing toxins from the body,

1·248dietary systems and, 1·214–249

dietary � ber, 1·214–217medical, 1·222–239nonmedical, 1·240–249testing disease risk and, 1·218–222

on fatbene� cial forms of, 1·231–232, 234in bu� er vs. margarine, 1·230–231chemistry of, 1·233cholesterol and, 1·222, 224–227heart disease and, 1·229–230

on French cuisine, 1·228on grilled meat and � sh, 1·221informed decisions in, 1·258–259


L X X V I I I I N D E X

FOOD AND HEALTH DEBATESFfood and health debates (continued)

on Modernist ingredients, 1·250–259natural ingredients vs., 1·254–255

on MSG, 1·213on natural ingredients, 1·257

Modernist ingredients vs., 1·254–255

on natural toxins, 1·249on organic food, 1·245–247on raw food, 1·247–249on salt, 1·234, 236–238scienti� c analysis of, 1·210–212on Spectrum diet, 1·242on vegetarianism, 1·244on vitamin supplements, 1·235on weight loss diets, 1·240–241on Weight Watchers, 1·241on Zone diet, 1·242

food hygiene. See also food safetysous vide and, 2·199, 201

food intolerances, 1·239food labels, 1·214, 239food mills, 2·400, 401. See also milling

ball, for dry-grinding, 2·401colloid. See colloid millsdouble-disc, 2·404pin-and-disc, 2·404roller, for dry-grinding, 2·404single-disc, for dry-grinding, 2·404

food poisoning, 1·110, 138bacteria causing, 1·133

food preservation, 3·344–373. See also additives; preservatives; speci� c preservation methods

anaerobic bacteria and, 1·136, 138best bets for, 3·348boiling-water canning for, 2·82–83chemicals for, 1·144–145of eggs, best bets for, 4·82food science and, 1·48by hunter-gatherers, 1·6of plant foods, 3·344–373refrigeration, freezing, and canning

for, 2·75food presses, for juicing, 2·332, 334food processors

breaking down food with, 2·400for emulsifying sausage, 3·225, 231,

233invention of, 2·412wet-grinding with, 2·412

food safety, 1·162–207chemistry of nitrates, nitrites, and

nitrosamines and, 3·160chicken and, misconceptions about,

1·180–181considerations for, 1·101cross-contamination and. See cross-

contaminationcultural factors in, 1·170–171, 173“danger zone” and, 1·175–179disclaimers and, rules of, 1·178drying with warm air and, 2·432–433egg garnishes on tartares and, 3·63extracting and infusing � avors and,

2·251FDA Food Code on. See FDA Food

Codefoodborne pathogens and, 1·115–116freeze-drying and, 2·447government bureaucracy and

changes in, 1·173

food safety (continued)Hazard Analysis and Critical Control

Point assessment and, 1·195holding temperature and,

misconceptions about, 1·175–176hygiene and. See hygieneJaccard tenderizers and, 3·51microbial contamination and, 1·105misconceptions about, 1·174–181Modernist cuisine and, 1·255Modernist Cuisine philosophy on, 1·191multiple water baths at di� erent

temperatures and, 2·247–249Myhrvold on writing about, 1·83natural essences and, 2·324natural pesticides and, 1·245organic foods and, 1·247pasteurization and, 2·250pathogenic strains of E. coli and, 1·137political factors in, 1·170–171, 173pork, misconceptions about,

1·179–180public health and rules on, 1·169–170rapid chilling and, 2·254raw shell� sh and, 3·27–28rules for

complex origins of, 1·166–173scienti� c simpli� cation of,

1·190–195sous vide and, 2·201trends in, factors in� uencing, 1·169of uncured con� t, 2·128water baths ho� er than target

temperature and, 2·245worrisome signs when curing and,

3·164Food Safety and Inspection Service

(FSIS)on chicken cooking times, 1·181on pork cooking times, 1·179Salmonella reduction standards of,

1·168on thin roasts vs. thick steaks, 1·187

food sciencedevelopment of, 1·42, 44–49history of, 1·48industrialization of food and

development of, 1·24McGee on, 1·43

food size. See also portionsbatch size and consistent baking and,

2·111, 112combi ovens vs. water bath cooking

and, 2·167conduction and, 1·279cook-chill sous vide method and,

2·256deep-frying and, 2·117drying with warm air and, 2·432� avor extraction and, 2·288, 290–291freeze-drying and, 2·446–447microwave cooking and, 2·183, 188,

189reducing. See particle size reductionroasting and, 2·28, 32sautéing and, 2·44sous vide cooking times and,

2·276–279stir-frying and, 2·54in water bath ho� er than � nal

temperature, 2·246food thickness

convection baking and, 2·110

food thickness (continued)sous vide cooking times and,

2·276–279foodborne illnesses, 1·110–119

common misconceptions about, 1·117–119

contamination routes for, 1·116–117contamination sources for, 1·113,

115–116cross-contamination and, 1·166diagnosis of, 1·114infectious dose for, 1·115mechanical tenderizers and, 1·176noroviruses and, 1·153–154tracking, 1·110–111, 113

foodborne pathogensbacterial, 1·134–135common misconceptions about,

1·117–119microbes as, 1·106research on, food safety rules and,

1·166time to onset of symptoms a� er

exposure to, 1·114types of, 1·108–109

forced convectionfrom air, heat transfer coe� cient of,

1·283boundary layer and, 1·283in CVap ovens, 2·159

forced-convection ovens, 1·282–283forced-convection steam ovens, 2·239forcemeat, 3·222

Activa TI for, 3·250forceps, surgical, for Modernist kitchen,

2·286foreshots, in distillation, 2·384Forgione, Larry, 1·28, 29� e Forme of Cury (1390), 1·10Fort, Ma� hew, 1·50Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399Foucault, Léon, 2·191Fourier, Jean Baptiste Joseph, 1·278Framingham Heart Study, 1·225, 231France. See also Bordeaux, France

agar in, history of cooking with, 4·128aristocratic food in, 1·8cuisine of, heart disease and, 1·228early gastronomy of, 1·9haute cuisine of, 1·19McDonald’s in, 1·23–24medieval cuisine in, 1·12New International cuisine and,

1·29–30Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·24, 26–27plated dishes in, 1·25seam cu� ing in, 3·47sous vide cooking in, 1·40, 41wine regulation in, 4·331–332

Francisella tularensis, 1·138frankfurters

Frankfurter, 3·242parametric recipe for, 3·238–239seasonings in, 3·226

free wateras measure of dryness, 2·428rehydration and, 1·321

Freedom Cooking System, 2·240freeze concentration, 2·379, 396, 397freeze dryers, 2·444, 448–449freeze � ltration, with gels, 2·368–371Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules,

2·454

Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4·300Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5·247, 250Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373,

5·261, 263Freeze-Dried Pork, 5·247, 251freeze-drying, 2·444–455, 3·365

best bets for, 2·451characteristics of, 2·444–447common problems with, 2·452critical temperatures for, science of,

2·453equipment for, 2·285example recipes for, 2·454–455,

5·185, 247of fruits, parametric recipe for, 3·372method for, 2·448–449, 450parametric recipe for, 2·450–452physics of, 1·329of plant foods, 3·344, 365prefreezing temperatures for, 2·451sublimation and, 1·328, 2·444, 3·365of vegetables

example recipes for, 3·373, 5·261parametric recipe for, 3·372

freezer burn, 1·308, 326freezer taste, 1·306freeze-thaw stability, thickener

selection and, 4·15freezers

extracellular � uid as liquid in, 1·305–306

pros and cons of, 2·259sublimation in, 1·326temperature control in, 1·205–207types of, 1·306–307

freezing. See also frozen foods; entries beginning with cryo-

anisakid infections and, 1·123below glass-transition temperature,

1·306bread freshness and, 1·320carbonated liquids and, 2·464cryogenic. See cryogenic freezingof � sh, 1·194, 3·37� ash, Birdseye and, 1·306–307food preservation and, 2·252freeze-drying and. See freeze-dryingfreezers and. See freezersof gel spheres, how to, 4·135juice extraction with, 2·239, 335, 337methods for, 1·306–311physics of, 1·299of plant foods, 3·344

to modify texture, 3·374pressure-shi� , physics of, 1·309of raw foods

extracellular � uid and, 1·305–306FDA on time and temperature for,

1·186in salty brine, 2·260sous vide cooking and, 2·256–258strategies for, 2·259thawing and. See thawingthickening sauces, jus, or glazes by,

2·346Trichinella infections and, 1·117–118,

121–122of water, 1·304–311

hydrogen bonds and, 1·298physics of, 1·299

freezing pointdepression of

dissolved materials and, 1·304–305


I N D E X L X X I X

GASES Gfreezing point (continued)

freeze concentration and, 2·396pacotizing and, 2·406

in phase diagrams, 1·302–303� e French Cook (La Varenne, 1651),

1·8, 9French cuisine. See FranceFrench Culinary Institute. See Arnold,

David; Norén, NilsFrench fries

frozen, program cooking in combi oven of, 2·169

ultimate, how to make, 3·322� e French Laundry, 1·38, 56, 68. See

also Keller, � omasFrench onion soup, pressure-cooking,

3·298French press co� ee brewer, 4·368French roast stage, of co� ee, 4·362French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93French toast, Chorizo French Toast,

4·98–99frequencies, of microwaves, 2·182Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107fricassees

Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5·161, 164Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees,

5·171, 173Sweet Pea and Young Ginger

Fricassee, 5·273, 275friction

emulsi� cation and, 4·13, 206heat generated by, 1·274, 2·398,

4·206meat grinding or chopping and,

3·230–231Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249Fried Egg Foam, 5·211, 212Fried Green Tomatoes, 5·67, 74Fried Pickles, 5·67, 75Frieden, � omas R., 1·237frigi-canning, 2·84–85fri� atas, parametric recipe for, 4·92froths


Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 2·411Frozen Chorizo Powder, 5·193, 194Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut

Cream, 2·411frozen foods. See also freezing

in conventional freezers, 1·305–306� avor changes in, chemistry of, 2·261food quality and, 2·256–258organ meat freshness and, 3·136seafood as, 1·182, 3·37thawing vs. cooking directly from

freezer, 1·313, 2·258, 262, 263Frozen Pomelo Cells, 5·189, 191frozen set foams, 4·245, 247Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401fruit chips

example recipes for, 3·328–330fried, best bets for, 3·328parametric recipe for, 3·328–329

fruit gels, hotbest bets for, 4·165parametric recipe for, 4·164–165

fruit meringue, cryofreezing of, 2·458fruits. See also citrus fruits; fruit chips;

fruit gels; speci� c � uitsacidic juice for marinades from, 3·195

fruits (continued)as acidi� ers, 2·31, 314, 315blanching, 2·269carbonating, 1·69, 2·464, 469, 472classi� cation of, 3·262colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214–215compressed, example recipes for,

3·392–394, 5·285cooked, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294cooking sous vide

parametric recipe for, 3·288, 290–291

for purees, best bets for, 3·290in sugar syrup, best bets for, 3·291until tender, best bets for, 3·288

cu� ing tools for frying, 3·326–327dehydrating

best bets for, 3·366example recipes for, 3·369–370parametric recipe for, 3·366–367

disassembling with liquid nitrogen of, 2·458, 462

FDA standards and, 1·189freeze-drying

best bets for, 3·372parametric recipe for, 2·451, 3·372

freshness control of, sous vide and, 2·201

gelling agents from, 4·126heat-shocking, 3·358–359hydrocolloids and, as thickeners, 4·19impregnated, example recipes for,

3·392–394, 5·285with peels, carbonating, 2·464plated-dish recipes for, 5·259–260,

277–279, 285–287preserving, best bets for, 3·348purees of

example recipes for, 2·427parametric recipe for, 2·424–425

raw, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294ripening, 3·283–284with sugar, brandied, fermentation

and, 3·346volumetric equivalents for amounts

of, 5·XLIVwater content of, 5·XL–XLI

frying, 3·314–343ba� er-frying


with breading, 3·338–343deep-frying and. See deep-fryingof fruits

chips and, 3·328–329cu� ing tools for, 3·326–327

naked, 3·317, 321best bets for, 3·320chemistry of, 3·320coated frying vs., 3·316, 318–319

oils for, chemistry of, 2·126panfrying and. See panfryingshallow. See shallow fryingstir-frying and. See stir-fryingvacuum, 2·128of vegetables

chips and, 3·330–331cu� ing tools for, 3·326–327example recipes for, 3·321,

323–325, 5·11potatoes as, 3·322–325

frying pan, cutaway illustration of, 3·72–73

FSIS. See U.S. Food Safety and Inspection Service

full city roast stage, of co� ee, 4·362functional magnetic resonance imaging

(fMRI), during wine tastings, 4·340fusel alcohols (fusel “oils”), 2·384fusion cooking, development of, 1·29

GGagnaire, Pierre

Adrià and, 1·34Erice Conferences and, 1·45, 46Green Olive Meringue recipe, 4·298hot spring eggs and, 4·75Modernist cuisine and, 1·64molecular gastronomy of � is and,

1·48New International cuisine and, 1·30Nouvelle cuisine and individuality

of, 1·27, 39–40Gajdusek, D. Carleton, 1·159Galileo, 1·107Gamay Noir, Gouais Blanc and, 4·327game broth, parametric recipe for,

2·304–305gamma-ray irradiation, to kill bacteria,

1·149ganache, Foie Gras and Hazelnut

Ganache, 5·125, 128Gand, Gale, 1·69garagistes, 4·332García, Dani

liquid nitrogen and, 1·64, 65Modernist cuisine and, 1·57

García del Moral, Raimundoon hepatic steatosis and foie gras,

3·139liquid nitrogen and, 1·64

gargling liquid nitrogen, safety and, 2·466

Le Gargouillou, 1·40, 3·294–295garlic

Apicius on, 1·12blanching, 5·26Brown Bu� er-Poached Green Garlic,

5·229, 230cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·290, 292Dehydrated Garlic Chips, 5·43, 46Garlic Con� t, 3·354, 5·25, 60, 81Garlic Nougatine, 5·25, 29Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85,

86Pickled Garlic, 5·25, 26preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic

Emulsion, 4·227Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86Toasted Garlic Chips, 5·5, 9Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82wild garlic blossom and, 5·26

garum, 1·11, 3·195Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121,

122gas burners, e� ciency of, 1·274gas griddles, 2·40gas grills

charcoal grills vs., 2·10–11controlling heat in, 2·14

gas-in-water (G/W) emulsions, 4·243gas-in-oil (G/O) emulsions, 4·243gases. See also carbonation; evaporation;

steamheat convection in, 1·282internal energy of, 1·264

physics of, 1·301


L X X X I N D E X

GASESGgases (continued)

phase changes and thermal energy from, 1·290

as solvents, 1·330, 332–333vapor vs., 1·300

gastroenteritis, 1·114, 119Gastronorm hotel pans, as vacuum

containers, 2·226–227Gault, Henri

Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·24, 26–27sous vide cooking and, 1·41

Gauthier, Alexandre, Modernist cuisine and, 1·64

Gayot, André, 1·24gazpacho

� avor of, 5·278Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277, 278

GDL (glucono delta-lactone)gel formation with, 4·102product guide for, 4·II–III

gel. See gelsgelatin. See also gelatinization

ballistic, 4·68Bloom strength and, 4·Vcharacteristics of, 4·67–68as foaming agent, 4·244–245, 251freeze-drying and, 2·447fruit juice and, 3·195gelling agents from, 4·69gels and

with alcohol, 4·IVparametric recipe for, 4·116–117

as hydrocolloid for thickening, 4·38hydrogen bonds in water and, 1·296ice � ltration and

for clarifying, 2·368–369for liquids and consommés, 2·352technique for, 2·370–371


160 Bloom. See 160 Bloom gelatinorganic food movement perception

of, 1·253product guide for, 4·II–IIIproduction process for, 1·256properties and uses of, 4·42–43in skin, baking chicken upright and,

2·109as thermo-reversible gel, 4·70as thickener, 4·5un� avored, volumetric equivalents

for amounts of, 5·XLIVwhipped cream and, 4·248

gelatinizationof collagen, 3·78–79common problems with, 4·27cooking � oury potatoes and, 3·280holding at a temperature and, 2·247of starches, 4·22temperature requirements for, 4·68

gelato, pistachio cream for, 4·214gellan

as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215fat incorporation into sausage with,

3·225as � uid gel, 4·176high-acyl. See high-acyl gellanlow-acyl. See low-acyl gellannatural sources for, 1·253

gelling agentshydrocolloids as, 4·67, 68, 124–175modern, 4·126sources of, 4·68

gels, 4·64–195. See also gelling agentsaerogels, history of, 4·72alginate, Adrià’s use for, 1·39casting

how to, 4·132of thick sheets, how to, 4·134

cellulose gum. See cellulose gumschemistry of, 4·71cold

best bets for, 4·140–141parametric recipe for, 4·140–141

concentrated, stock solution of, 4·126

considerations for, 4·73dairy, 4·102–123

example recipes for, 4·105–111, 114derivation of term, 4·67egg. See egg gelsfamiliar, 4·67–69� rm coating, best bets for, 4·151� uid. See � uid gelsformation process for, 4·70–72hot. See hot gelshydrocolloid. See hydrocolloid gelsion-coagulated, 4·124–127

how to use, 4·129Madeira Gelée, 5·125, 131meat. See meat gelsmodern, 4·126molding

how to, 4·133with suspended solids, how to,

4·133noodles and

how to extrude, 4·138how to extrude with peristaltic

pump, 4·139rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIIISalt Gel, 5·5, 9seafood, 3·222Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 5·109,

111spreading use of, 1·73tofu, 4·102–123

example recipes for, 4·112–113, 115traditional, 4·69vegetable, hot, parametric recipe for,

4·164–165generally recognized as safe (G� S)

ingredients, 1·254Genevac Rocket Evaporator, 2·391–395

example recipes for, 2·394genome, bacterial, sequencing of, 1·130genus, 1·112geoduck clams

biology of, 3·27cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·108Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 4·266Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger,

Shiso, 5·197, 200geometric growth, of bacteria, 1·142geometry. See also food size; food

thicknessof foam, 4·246heat conduction in food and, 1·279

geosminin beets, 5·182in freshwater � sh, 3·88

Gerber, Walter, 4·222Germany

early gastronomy of, 1·10sausage-making in, 3·223

ghee, 4·213Giardia intestinalis, 1·127–129Giardia lamblia, 1·128giardiasis, 1·128Il Giardino d’Italia, 1·21, 31ginger

Crab and Ginger Marble, 5·253, 255Ginger Cola, 4·239infusion of, parametric recipe for,

2·310Sweet Pea and Young Ginger

Fricassee, 5·273, 275Tuna Ribbons with Ginger

Marmalade, 3·202XO Sauce, 4·52

ginger extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326

Girardet, FrédyBlack Cod “Frédy Girardet” and,

5·170–173Nouvelle cuisine and individuality

of, 1·27poaching and broiling by, 2·24–25,

96, 97GISSI-Prevenzione clinical trial, 1·232Gi� leman, Ann Louise, 1·248gizzard, characteristics and cooking of,

3·141–142glasses, edible, 4·6

dehydrating formula for, 3·367Pineapple Glass, 3·370Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123

glass jarsfor canning, 2·77heating requirements and duration

for, 2·79packing food in, 2·78

glass-ceramic stoves, 1·274glass-transition temperature

freeze-drying and, 1·329, 2·444, 446freezing below, 1·306

Glazed Carrot, 5·185, 186Glazed Oxtail, 5·49, 50Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·261, 263Glazed White Carrot, 5·31, 32glazes

Banyuls Glaze, 5·17, 19Bulgogi Glaze, 5·285, 287Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219,

221Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and

Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159Goulash Glaze, 5·55, 57Hamburger Glaze, 5·11, 14Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 5·43,

44thickening strategies for, 2·346vacuum evaporation for reducing,

2·346glazing

as alternative to boiling, 2·70covered sautéing of vegetables and,

2·58gloves, personal hygiene and, 1·200glucono delta-lactone (GDL)

gel formation with, 4·102product guide for, 4·II–III

glucose powder, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60

glucose syrup DE 40for bubbles and froths, parametric

recipe for, 4·264

glucose syrup DE 40 (continued)as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·47glue

meat, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also Activa

vegetable, 3·392gluten

as bread � our-binder, 3·376intolerance to, 1·239

glycerin, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60

glycerolcentrifuging and, 2·368in milk, foam development and,

4·392glycine, in scallops, 3·26glycogen, in scallops, 3·26gnocchi

Flourless Gnocchi, 4·119Idiazábal Gnocchi, 4·123

G/O (gas-in-oil) emulsions, 4·243Goan Curry, 5·90, 91, 95goat cheese

Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4·105Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57

goat’s milkcarotenoid pigments and, 3·92as emulsion, color of, 4·202Goat Milk Rico� a, 4·108

goats, scrapie in, 1·157God shot, of espresso

as absolute perfection, 4·357� rst, pleasure of, 4·375pod or capsule systems and, 4·400

Goin, Suzanne, Achatz’s � rst meal at elBulli and, 1·38

Goldfarb, Will, 1·67Gong Bao Chicken, 3·205goose, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·99gooseberries, as acidi� er, 2·314Gosset, William Sealy, 4·251Gouais Blanc grapes, Chardonnay and,

4·327Gouda cheese

Cheese in a Tube, 4·225Mac and Cheese, 3·387Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso� o,

3·308Goulash Broth, 5·55, 56Goulash Glaze, 5·55, 57Goussault, Bruno

biography of, 1·43sous vide cooking and, 1·41

gra� ing, grape varieties and, 4·326–327Graham, Tim, 1·69Grahm, Randall, 4·345grains


seasonal mélanges with, 3·294water content of, 5·XLI

Gram, Hans Christian, 1·106gram-calorie, 1·272Gram-negative bacteria, 1·106Gram-positive bacteria, 1·106la grande cuisine. See Esco� er, AugusteGrandin, Temple, biography of, 3·36granita, Passion Fruit Granita, 5·175, 177


I N D E X L X X X I

G/W (GAS-IN-WATER) EMULSIONS Ggrapefruit

as acidi� er, 2·314cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·291Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit,

3·357Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180Pink Grapefruit Con� t, 5·225, 226

grapefruit diet, 1·240–241grapes. See also verjus

carbonated, 2·464Cantu on, 2·469



Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

3·372heat-treating, parametric recipe for,

3·359impregnating, parametric recipe for,


3·348in Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy

Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200

White Grape Syrup, 4·52for wine, 4·319–320

varieties of, 4·326–328grapeseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126G� S (generally recognized as safe)

ingredients, 1·254Gras, Laurent, 1·69graters, Microplane

Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 3·388cu� ing vegetables for frying with,

3·327gratin, Onion Gratin, 5·261, 265grating, cryogenic freezing for, 2·461gravy

Red-Eye Gravy, 5·101, 102� anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33

Gray, � eodore, liquid nitrogen ice cream and, 1·63–64

graybodies, absorption and emission by, 1·286

greasiness, in deep-fried foods, avoiding, 2·125, 127

Great Atlantic & Paci� c Tea Company, 1·21

Greeceancient, sausage-making in, 3·220early gastronomy in, 1·12–13

Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus, 2·341

green beansFresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348green cabbage, in Sauerkraut, 3·351,

5·35Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85, 86Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 5·167,

169Green Olive Meringue, 4·298green olives

Green Olive Meringue, 4·298Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193Olive Marmalade, 4·99

Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97green peas

Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2·367Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 5·273,

275cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·292freezing to preserve � avor of, 3·374Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87Green Pea Yuba, 4·115Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410pea consommé, parametric recipe

for, 2·374–375puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Sweet Pea and Young Ginger

Fricassee, 5·273, 275Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371

Green Star macerating juicers, 2·332green tea

Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291Green Tea Cake, 4·292infusion of, parametric recipe for,

2·310green tomatoes, Fried Green Tomatoes,

5·67, 74Greene, Gael, 1·61Greenland shark, chemistry of, 3·43Gremolata Crisp, 5·60, 64grey mullet bo� arga, in Sea Urchin

Bo� arga, 5·226griddles

characteristics of, 2·40for Modernist kitchen, 2·287panfrying using, 2·37searing using, 2·40–41

for sous vide cooking, 2·271shiny, physics of, 1·284

grilling, 2·6–17charcoal vs. brique� es for, 2·12charcoal vs. gas for, 2·10–11charcoal vs. wood for, 2·7chemistry of � avor and, 2·12cutaway illustration of, 2·8–9dra� and, 2·7historical uses of, 1·16indirect, 2·13sous vide cooking and, 2·270

grills. See also grillingcharcoal

controlling heat in, 2·14gas grills vs., 2·10–11

gascharcoal grills vs., 2·10–11controlling heat in, 2·14

manufacturers of, “BTU” as used by, 1·272

as ovens, 2·13radiant heat from, 1·277, 284sweet spot of, 2·14–17

Grimes, William, 1·63grinders. See co� ee grinders; espresso

grinders; meat grindersgrinding. See also milling; co� ee beans

colloidal suspensions from, 4·12dry, equipment for, 2·401–402, 404,

407example recipes for, 2·403–405,

5·35, 125of fat

how to, 3·228

grinding (continued)to incorporate into sausage,

3·224–225mathematics of power for, 2·401of meat

collagen mesh and, 3·76how to, 3·228for sausage, 3·220

strategies for, 2·400tools for, 3·230–233wet. See wet-grinding

grooming espresso porta� ltersdosing and, 4·380how to, 4·381methods for, 4·383

grousecooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·99as substitute for pigeon, 5·132

Growth Predictor, simulating bacterial growth, 1·147

Gruyère cheeseAerated Gruyère, 4·312Cheesy “Whiz,” 4·225Gruyère Custard, 5·261, 264Gruyère Sou� é, 4·301Gruyère Spheres, 4·190Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95Whipped Cheese, 4·272

guar gumcontrolling syneresis with, 4·17as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215fat incorporation into sausage with,



for, 4·270product guide for, 4·II–IIIproduction process for, 1·257properties and uses of, 4·42–43thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·46, 47Guérard, Michel, 1·24, 26

pot-au-feu of, 5·49Le Guide Culinaire (Esco� er, 1903), 1·9,

19–20Le Guide Michelin, star ratings of, 1·24guinea hen


Guinea Hen Tagine plated-dish recipe, 5·135–139

Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 5·135, 137Guinness beer

dra� -beer-style head on, 4·250–251, 254, 256

Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145gum arabic


natural source for, 1·253, 257properties and uses of, 4·42–43as surfactant emulsi� er, 4·216–217

gum tragacanthinteractions with other thickeners,

4·44–45product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·46, 47

gums. See also speci� c types of gumshydrocolloid

� avor release by, 4·11grades, brand names, and

proprietary blends of, 1·95natural sources for, 1·253organic label for, 1·245scaling using baker’s percentages

and, 1·96–97kori bustard’s consumption of, 1·253as thickeners, 4·15thickening sauces, jus, or glazes

with, 2·346Gundel, Károly, 5·55Guns, Germs, and Steel (Diamond),

3·268G/W (gas-in-water) emulsions, 4·243


L X X X I I I N D E X

HA GELLANHHHA gellan. See high-acyl gellanHACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical

Control Point) assessment, basics of, 1·195

Haeberlin, Paul, 1·49hake, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·102Haldane, J. B. S., 2·288halibut


Halibut Brandade, 5·151, 152Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 5·143, 144Halibut Cheeks, 5·143, 144Halibut in Verbena Bubble,

4·156–157Lute� sk, 3·200Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151

ham. See also jamón Ibérico; prosciu� oBlackstrap Molasses Country Ham,

3·183cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,


for, 3·109Cured Ham Broth, 5·81, 84Ham Broth, 2·306Ham Consommé with Melon Beads,

4·48Spanish raw-cured, U.S. importation

rules on, 1·173XO Sauce, 4·52

Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95ham and cheese sausage, parametric

recipe for, 3·238–239ham broth

Ham Broth, 2·306parametric recipe for, 2·304–305

Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 4·48

hamachicooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102Hamachi Maltaise plated-dish

recipe, 5·147–149Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149

Hamburger Buns, 5·11, 12Hamburger Glaze, 5·11, 14hamburgers

best bets for, 3·234as coarse “sausage,” 3·220, 222meat grinders for, 3·233parametric recipe for, 3·234–235perfect, how to cook sous vide, 3·86

Hancock, Jerry, liquid nitrogen ice cream and, 1·63

hand washingproper methods for, 1·196–199UV lotion or powder and, 1·201

handheld blendersdispersing thickeners with, 4·24emulsifying with, 4·208, 209foam forming with, 4·252, 258, 259hydration of ion-coagulated gels

with, 4·124hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38for Modernist kitchen, 2·286ultrasonic homogenizers as, 2·415wet-grinding with, 2·413

handheld smokers, 2·146handheld whipping wands. See also

whisksfoam forming with, 4·258to froth milk, 4·391

Hanger Steak Tartare, 3·65Hanig, Dieter, 4·341Hanner, Heinz, 1·70hard apple cider

freeze-concentrating to make applejack, 2·396

Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 4·276

hard waterdissolved minerals and, 1·335espresso-making and, 4·384hydration of ion-coagulated gels

with, 4·124plant food cooking and, 3·278

hard-boiled eggs, parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78

hardwood charcoal, brique� es vs., 2·12Harvard School of Public Health, 1·230Harvell, Michael Lee, 3·207Hawaiian Poke plated-dish recipe,

5·175–177Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 5·113,

114–115Hazard Analysis and Critical Control

Point (HACCP) assessment, 1·195hazard ratio, nutritional studies and,

1·219haze (weather phenomenon), 1·325hazelnut oil

Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 2·426

Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321hazelnut oil extract

Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2·321parametric recipe for, 2·326

hazelnutsCentrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil,

2·367Dried Cherry and Hazelnut

Nougatine, 5·267, 270Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache,

5·125, 128Hazelnut “Cream,” 4·236 Romesco Sauce, 2·419Saucisson Sec, 3·247

HCAs (heterocyclic amines), 1·220HDL (high-density lipoproteins), 1·226heads, in distillation, 2·384health. See food and health debates;

foodborne illnesses; foodborne pathogens

heart, characteristics and cooking of, 3·142

heart diseasecholesterol and, 1·224–227dietary � ber and risk of, 1·216fat and, 1·229–230French cuisine and, 1·228weight loss diets and, 1·242

heart pa� ern, for ca� è la� es, 4·395hearts of palm, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·289heat, 1·260–291. See also energy;

temperaturebacterial toxins and, 1·135conduction of. See conductionconvection of. See convection entriesde� ning, 1·264

heat (continued)e� ciency and, 1·274

of kitchen devices producing, 1·275energy and, 1·263excessive, pressure cookers and,

2·291friction and. See frictionfruit ripening and, 3·283–284of fusion, 1·296latent, of vaporization. See latent

heat of vaporizationlost, cutaway illustration of sources

for, 1·276in motion, 1·277–290oil changes due to, 2·115oven control of, 2·153from pan bo� om to handle,

1·280–281physics of woks glowing hot, 1·287radiant. See radiationshell� sh � avors and, 3·27speci� c, de� nition of, 1·266–267spheri� cation and, 4·184steam distillation and, 2·320of sublimation, 1·326temperature and, 1·264–271testing oven controls for, 2·156–157transfer of

boiling and, 2·63cold-shocking and, 2·254, 256computer simulation models of,

1·282with conduction, 1·277–281. See

also conductionwith convection, 1·279, 281–283.

See also convectiondirection of, 1·265–266Fick’s law of di� usion and, 2·290Myhrvold on writing about, 1·84with radiation, 1·284–286types of, 1·277in water bath at core temperature,

2·245in water bath ho� er than target

temperature, 2·245, 247of vaporization, 1·296. See also latent

heat of evaporationwhipped cream and, 4·244, 248

heat capacityof cookware, 1·278of water, 1·298

heat content, measuring, 1·300–301heat equation

calculating cooking times using, 1·279

history of Fourier and, 1·278heat � ux, from grills, 2·10heat lability, of bacterial toxins, 1·135heat transfer coe� cient, 1·283heat-gun browning, 2·275. See also blow

torching and blowtorchesHeather-Smoked Sturgeon, 5·233, 235Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille� es,

5·233, 235heat-set Activa bonding, 3·252heat-shocking, of plant foods, 3·344,

358–359heat-treated fruit, parametric recipe for,

3·359hemoglobin, role of, 3·12, 14Henderson, Fergus, 1·28, 3·136HEPA (High E� ciency Particulate Air)

ventilation hoods, 1·205

hepatic steatosis and foie gras, pathology of, 3·139

hepatitis A, 1·155herb oil, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil,

2·330Herbed Cheese Spread, 4·57Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 3·383,

5·253herbs

antioxidants in, aging braises and pot roasts and, 2·98

Apicius on, 1·11for brining or curing, 3·158converting grams to volumes for,

5·XXXVIIIcryofreezing of, 2·458freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

3·372microwaving, 3·310Romans’ use of, 1·11in sausage, 3·226seasonal mélanges with, 3·295volumetric equivalents for amounts

of, 5·XLIVwater content of, 5·XLI

Herman, Sergio, 1·70Hermé, Pierre, Onion tart and, 5·261Herodotus, 1·12Hesse, Angelina, 4·128Hesse, Walther, 4·128Hesser, Amanda, 1·188heterocyclic amines (HCAs), 1·220hex. See sodium hexametaphosphatehibiscus � owers, Foie Gras Torchon

with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze, 4·158–159

High E� ciency Particulate Air (HEPA) ventilation hoods, 1·205

high-acyl (HA) gellanfor cold gels, parametric recipe for,

4·140for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe


4·160as ion-based coagulant, 4·127product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72

high-density lipoproteins (HDL), 1·226

high-methoxyl (HM) pectinfor cold gels, parametric recipe for,


for, 4·60as gelling agent, 4·68interactions with other thickeners,

4·44–45product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72

high-pressure homogenizersemulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209foam forming with, 4·252

high-temperature, short-time (HTST) pasteurization, 1·188

hijiki, 5·28histamines

intolerance to, 1·239spoiled � sh and poisoning from,

1·139Historic Lamb Curries plated-dish

recipe, 5·89–99


I N D E X L X X X I I I

HHYGIENE

history, 1·2–101of evolution and revolution, 1·14–31of Modernist Cuisine, 1·82–91of Modernist Cuisine recipes, 1·92–101of Modernist revolution, 1·52–77of origins of cooking, 1·6–13of seeds of Modernism, 1·32–51timeline of Modernist recipes and

techniques and, 1·78–81HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance)

values, 4·204HM pectin. See high-methoxyl pectinHodgson, Robert, 4·338Ho� man, James, 4·396, 400hogs, roasting, 2·30–31Hokkaido squash, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290holding food

browned, in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·159

at target temperature, 2·247–249holding temperature. See also water

baths“danger zones,” 1·175–176extended and simpli� ed 6.5D

Salmonella reduction for, 1·192FDA Food Code time and

temperature for, 1·184food safety misconceptions about,

1·175–176maximum/minimum speci� cations

for, 1·176for meat, food safety and, 3·78for pasteurization, 2·243, 3·233of refrigerators, 2·257

Holiday Inn, Greenville, South Carolina, sous vide cooking and, 1·41

hollandaiseBacon Jam, 4·229Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4·228Eggs Benedict, 4·86Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 4·228

Homer, 1·13, 3·220hominy, Shrimp and Grits, 3·377homogenizers

high-pressureemulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209foam forming with, 4·252

rotor-stator. See rotor-stator homogenizers

ultrahigh-pressurefor Modernist kitchen, 2·284for reducing particle size, 2·398, 400for wet-grinding, 2·414, 422–423

ultrasonic. See ultrasonic homogenizers

Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197honey

BBQ Caramels, 4·62Edible Bar Soap with Honey

Bubbles, 4·267Sa� ron Honey Foam, 5·94Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123

honeydew melon, Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392

honshimeji mushroomsCompressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,

5·55, 58cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93

Hooke, Robert, 1·107Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59

Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244Hormel, Jay Catherwood, 1·21horns, of ultrasonic homogenizers, 2·414horsepower, 1·272horseradish, Horseradish Foam, 4·284Horseradish Foam, 4·284hospital food in Sweden, sous vide

technology for, 2·252, 265Hostess Brands, 1·76Hot and Cold Tea, 4·176, 182Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4·293Hot Banana Gel, 4·166Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221Hot Bu� er Foam, 4·283Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227hot foods, cooling

food safety and, 1·205–206, 2·256, 257

phase changes and, 1·290starchy plants and, 3·280, 282

hot gelsbest bets for, 4·160examples of, 4·124fruit

best bets for, 4·165parametric recipe for, 4·164–165

parametric recipe for, 4·160–161Hot Green Apple Gel, 4·166hot liquids, thickened, parametric

recipe for, 4·46–47hot mi� s

conduction in, 1·277, 280silicone, 1·280

Hot Orange Gel, 4·167hot plates, digitally controlled

for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for vacuum reduction, 2·380

Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121Hôtel Moderne, 1·25hot-packing

boiling-water canning and, 2·77heating requirements and duration

for, 2·79packing food in canning jars for, 2·78

hot-pickling tongue, 3·141hot-smoking, 2·143, 148, 3·211, 361hot-spring eggs, 4·75

parametric recipe for cooking, 4·78House Barbecue Sauce, 4·49, 5·67House Bi� ers, 2·327House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18How To. See list of Step-by-Step

Procedures, LVIHPMC. See hydroxypropyl

methylcelluloseHTST (high-temperature, short-time)

pasteurization, 1·188humectants, moisture content of food

and, 2·428humidity. See also combi ovens;

moisture; water-vapor ovensActiva and, 3·252baking and, 2·102, 111braising or pot-roasting in ovens

and, 2·98co� ee grind and, 4·376, 378in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117,

118–119, 125evaporation and, 1·319–321fermented sausage-making and, 3·246heat transfer and, 2·71ovens and, 2·153

humidity (continued)relative. See relative humidityresting food and, 2·38in shallow frying, 2·127–128smoking and, 2·132, 141, 3·211

� avor of smoke and, 2·138hot-smoking and, 2·148smoke from burning wood and,

2·143testing oven controls for, 2·156–157

humidity-controlled mode, in modern ovens, 2·156–157

Humm, Daniel, Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise recipe, 4·228

Humphries, Daniel, 4·375Hungarian Beef Goulash plated-dish

recipe, 5·55–59hunter-gatherers, cooking by, 1·6hydration. See also rehydration

approaches to, 4·20of cellulosic gums, 4·127of cooked roux, 4·22for gelling, 4·71of hydrocolloids

for gelling, 4·124for thickening, 4·38, 40

hydrocolloid gels, 3·250, 4·67, 68, 124–175. See also hydrocolloids

castinghow to, 4·132in thick sheets, 4·134

cellulose gum, 4·126best bets for, 4·171example recipes for, 4·172–175parametric recipe for, 4·170–171

coating, 4·150–160best bets for, 4·151example recipes for, 4·152–160parametric recipe for, 4·150–151

cold, 4·140–149best bets for, 4·140example recipes for, 4·141–149parametric recipe for, 4·140

dairy, formation of, 4·102extruding gel noodles and, 4·138

with peristaltic pump, 4·139� lms and veils from, example recipes

for, 4·168–169� uid, 4·176–184

best bets for, 4·177coarse, 4·179with concentrated premade stock

gels, 4·179example recipes for, 4·180–184parametric recipe for, 4·177–179quick-se� ing, 4·179as thickeners, 4·19

fruit and vegetable, hot, 4·164–167best bets for, 4·165example recipes for, 4·166–167,


hot, 4·160–167best bets for, 4·160example recipes for, 4·161–163parametric recipe for, 4·160–161

hot fruit and vegetablebest bets for, 4·165example recipes for, 4·166–167,


ion-coagulated, 4·124–127

hydrocolloid gels (continued)example recipes for, 4·130–131how to use, 4·129

from microbes, 4·126molding, 4·133

of � rm beads in cold oil, 4·136of � rm droplets, 4·137in spheres, 4·135

from plants, 4·126fruits of, 4·126marine, 4·126tubers and roots of, 4·126

spheri� cation with, 4·184–195best bets for, 4·187example recipes for, 4·188–195parametric recipe for, 4·186–187reverse, 4·187suspending solids in gelled spheres

and, 4·187starches as, 4·126

hydrocolloid gums� avor release by, 4·11grades, brand names, and

proprietary blends of, 1·95natural sources for, 1·253organic label for, 1·245scaling using baker’s percentages

and, 1·96–97hydrocolloids, 4·67, 68, 124–175. See

also hydrocolloid gels; speci� c types of hydrocolloids

enzymes as, 4·126health and safety of, 1·250hydration of, 4·40interactions with other thickeners,

4·44–45ion reaction for spheri� cation with,

4·184as natural ingredient, 4·38product guide for, 4·II–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41sequestrants and, 4·129suppliers of, 4·40texture-hydrocolloid combinations,

overview, 4·VIIas thickeners, 4·13, 19, 38–55

example recipes for, 4·48–59, 61–63, 5·67

use of term, 4·124hydrogen bonds, 1·296, 298, 314, 332hydrolysis, 2·123, 247, 3·78–79, 118hydrophilic molecules, in surfactants,

4·202, 244hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)

values, 4·204hydrophobic molecules

fats as, 4·199in surfactants, 4·202, 244

hydrosol, in essential oils, 2·318, 320hydroxypropyl methylcellulose

(HPMC)for cellulose gum gels, parametric

recipe for, 4·170, 171interactions with other thickeners,


hygiene, 1·196–207food, sous vide and, 2·199, 201ice cream bases and, 1·206kitchen, 1·200–205personal, 1·196–200


L X X X I V I N D E X

HYGIENEHhygiene (continued)

temperature control for, 1·205–207hygroscopic materials, food drying and,

2·428hyperdecanting wine, 4·343–344hypermodern cuisine, 1·57hypertension, salt and, 1·234, 236–237hypothesis, of scienti� c theories, 1·218hysteresis, gel selection and, 4·73

Iice

crystals of. See ice crystalsforms of, 1·304freezing clear cubes of, 1·333heat conductivity of water vs., 1·299as phase of water, 1·300sublimation of, 1·326

ice beer, freeze concentration of, 2·396ice cream

Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream, 4·312base for

hygiene and, 1·196pasteurizing in sous vide bag, 1·206sous vide cook-chill of, 1·206

FDA Food Code time and temperature for, 1·185, 187, 189

freeze concentration of, 2·396freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

2·451as frozen set foam, 4·247hot, as Modernist cuisine quest,

4·127ice-restructuring compounds and,

1·305liquid nitrogen and, 1·60–62, 311,

2·458pacotizing, 2·406, 407simpli� ed recommendations for,

1·190vacuum in� ation for foaming with,

4·254ice crystals. See also sublimation

freeze concentration and, 2·396on frozen foods, 2·256–258

thawing and, 2·262pacotizing and, 2·407

ice wine, freeze concentration of, 2·396ice-brine baths

freeze concentration and, 2·396freezing food in, 1·310, 2·260pros and cons of, 2·259vacuum packing and freezing in,

2·258ice-restructuring compounds, in � sh,

1·305ice-water baths

for cooling hot food, 1·206physics of not halting cooking with,

2·254pros and cons of, 2·255for quick chilling, 2·256for thawing, 2·263

ID50determining, science of, 1·115foodborne illnesses and, 1·115–116

ideal gas law, 1·282Ideas in Food (blog), 1·66, 67. See also

Kamozawa, Aki; Talbot, H. AlexanderIdiazábal cheese

Idiazábal Gnocchi recipe, 4·123Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito

Stock Veil, 4·168IDL (intermediate-density lipoprotein),

1·226ike jime method of slaughtering � sh,

3·35, 37how to, 3·38

Il Giardino d’Italia. See Boiardi, E� oreIliad (Homer), 1·13

illnesses, foodborne. See foodborne illnesses; foodborne pathogens

immediate service, sous vide and, 2·204–205

immersion blenders. See handheld blenders

immersion chillers, 2·238. See also water baths

immersion circulators, 2·230, 234, 235, 237

immiscible substances, 1·331, 332immune system, food allergies and,

1·238–239immune-compromised people,

fermented or cured sausages and, 3·223

impregnated fruits and vegetablesexample recipes for, 3·392–401, 5·285parametric recipe for, 3·390–391

Impression, Sunrise (Monet), 1·17, 18Impressionism

fading of, 1·72history of rough start for, 1·18–19Modernist avant-garde and, 1·52as revolution in art, 1·16–18Turner’s paintings and, 1·33

impulse sealers, 2·225, 284. See also vacuum packing

inactivation, of viral pathogens, 1·152–153

INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine), 4·331

Incas, gastronomy of, 1·13index of refraction, 4·203India, curries of, 3·196–197Indies Spice Blend, 2·403individual quick freezing, � uidized bed

freezing for, 1·307induction burners, 1·274infections

astrovirus, 1·155intestinal. See also diarrhea;

Salmonella spp.giardiasis as, 1·128salmon-poisoning � uke and, 1·124

invasive, 1·110, 133, 134–135noninvasive

bacteria causing, 1·133, 135–136, 138–141

de� nition of, 1·110infectious dose

determining, science of, 1·115foodborne illnesses and, 1·115–116

in� ammation, heart disease and, 1·227in� ammatory diarrhea, 1·114in� ation, vacuum, foam forming with,

4·252, 254, 310informal recommendations, on food

safety, 1·165infrared light

blackbodies and, 1·285measuring, 1·287radiation and, 1·284

infrared thermometers, 1·269, 2·286infusing � avor. See also chamber sealers;

essences, aromaticsinto fats


� avor-infused liquids andexample recipe for, 2·313parametric recipe for, 2·310

by cooking sous vide, 2·251

infusion, in co� ee brewing, 4·364ingredients. See also speci� c ingredients

converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXIX–XL

measurement of, 1·93weights and measures for, 1·94–95

Modernist. See Modernist ingredients

size of. See food sizethickness of. See food thicknessused in Modernist Cuisine, 1·93–94

injectors, for accelerating brining, 3·158, 166, 174–175

innards, 3·136–151blood as, 3·144bones as, 3·143–144cooking, 3·136–151fat and, 3·144–145gizzard as, 3·141–142heart as, 3·142intestines as

characteristics and cooking of, 3·142–143

for sausage encasement, 3·220kidney as, 3·141liver and foie gras and, 3·138–140marrow as, 3·143–144O� al Sous Vide, 3·146parametric recipe for cooking sous

vide, 3·146as sausage binder, 3·222soaking in water or milk, 3·136stomach as, 3·142–143sweetbreads as. See sweetbreadstender, best bets for cooking sous

vide, 3·146tongue as, 3·140–141. See also speci� c

types of tonguetough, best bets for cooking sous

vide, 3·146insoluble substances, 1·330Insta Cure No. 1, 3·158, 161Insta Cure No. 2, 3·161Instant Crème Fraîche, 4·57Instant Swiss Meringue, 4·284Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172Institut National des Appellations

d’Origine (INAO), 4·331institutional cooking, sous vide

techniques for, 2·265insulators, low conductivity of, 1·277integrals, mathematical, de� nition of,

2·230intellectual property law, 1·70–72, 76intensity of power, calculating grill

power and, 2·10intermediate muscle � ber, 3·15intermediate-density lipoprotein (IDL),

1·226internal energy, 1·264–265International Agency for Research on

Cancer, 1·220Internet

as Modernist ingredients source, 1·94

Modernist innovation and, 1·59–60INTERSALT study, 1·236, 237intestinal tract infections. See also

diarrhea; Salmonella spp.giardiasis as, 1·128salmon-poisoning � uke and, 1·124


I N D E X L X X X V

JJUS

intestinescharacteristics and cooking of,

3·142–143for sausage encasement, 3·220

“Into the Vegetable Garden,” 3·294, 4·37intracellular � uid, in raw foods, 1·305invasive infections, 1·110, 133, 134–135inverse-square law of light, 1·286Inverted Flame Firebox, invention of,

3·208inverters, for microwaves, 2·189Invincible Vinaigre� e, 4·231ion-coagulated gels

characteristics of, 4·124–127using, how to, 4·129

ion-exchange � lter, for purifying water, 1·335

ionic bonds, 1·296ionic compounds, 1·330Ionnadis, John, 1·220ionotropic gelation, 4·184ions

de� nition of, 1·330gel coagulation and, 4·68, 124–127gel selection and, 4·73hard water and, 1·335, 3·278hydrocolloid coagulation and, 4·70hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·40sodium, dissolved in water, 3·154

iota carrageenanfor cold gels, parametric recipe for,

4·140controlling syneresis with, 4·17for � uid gels, parametric recipe for,

4·177hot, as Modernist cuisine quest, 4·127interactions with other thickeners,

4·44–45as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 129product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128for spheri� cation, parametric recipe

for, 4·187for thick foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·278–279irradiation. See radiationirreversible changes

measuring of, 1·268temperature and, 1·268, 270

isomaltfor edible � lms, parametric recipe

for, 4·60for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289for thick foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·278–279Italian sausage

Italian Sausage, 3·242sweet, parametric recipe for,

3·236–237Italy

early gastronomy of, 1·10–11espresso in, sociological role of, 4·374medieval cuisine in, 1·12Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28–29Slow Food movement of, 1·23tradition and evolving cuisine of,

1·14–15wine regulation in, 4·332

Iuzzini, JohnnyBeet Flexicurd recipe, 4·219Green Tea Cake recipe, 4·292innovations of, 1·73

JJaccard tenderizers

for accelerating brining, 3·158, 166characteristics of, 3·51collagen mesh and, 3·76hazards with, 1·176meat juiciness and, 3·79

jacking, 2·379, 396, 397jalapeño chips, parametric recipe for,

3·328Jaleo, 1·67James I of Aragon, 5·244Jamin. See Robuchon, Joëljamón Ibérico

Ham Broth, 2·306Maillard reaction and, 3·173slicing, 3·50U.S. importation rules on, 1·173

Japanblocking tuna in, 3·54meat-grading system in, 3·36seam cu� ing in, 3·47tuna prices in, 3·52

Japanese rotary vegetable slicer, 3·327Japanese slow-cooked eggs, parametric

recipe for cooking, 4·78Japanese stock, parametric recipe for,

2·296–297Japanese vegetable sheeter, 3·326Japanese yams, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·292Jardin des Saveurs, 1·61jasmine essential oil, Apricot and

Jasmine Puree, 5·171, 173Jean Georges, 1·73Je� erson, � omas, 3·322Jell-O shot, 4·70jelly, Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180Jenner, Edward, 2·85Jerusalem artichokes


Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125,

131puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425

John Dorycooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149

Jones, Curt, 1·61, 72Jones Soda Company, Turkey & Gravy

seasonal � avor, 4·33joules, 1·272Joule, James Presco� , 1·272Journal of Food Protection, 1·181Journal of Wine Economics, 4·338juice. See also juicing

apple. See apple cider/apple juicebeef

parametric recipe for, 2·344–345Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349

centrifuge-spun, 2·360chicken, parametric recipe for,

2·344–345citrus, as acidi� er, 2·314, 315clarifying with Buon Vino pressure

� lter, how to, 2·355concentrating � avor of, 2·379frozen, freeze-drying of, 2·446

juice (continued)fruit, for acidic marinades, 3·195grape. See grapes; verjusfrom ground fruits or vegetables,

3·376keeping fresh taste of, 2·338–339

juicersfor raw food, 3·269types of, 2·332, 334

juicinessacidic marinades and, 3·192–193cooking meat and seafood and, 3·79,

83of meat

fat content and, 3·18from young vs. older animals, 3·79,

81juicing, 2·332–349

chemistry and, 2·335with enzymes, 2·335, 336equipment for, 2·332–335example recipes for, 2·340–341by freezing, 2·335, 337with osmosis, 2·336with pectinase from plants, 2·336reducing, in vacuum, 2·381strategies for, 2·338, 339

Julien, Honoré, 3·322Juneja, Vijay K., 1·180–181, 188, 190, 193� e Jungle (Sinclair), 3·35juniper berries

infusion of, parametric recipe for, 2·310

Juniper Brine, 5·35, 36Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 5·35, 36

junk food, obesity and, 1·23jus, 2·343–349

beefAged Rare Beef Jus, 5·5, 6Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,

4·54parametric recipe for, 2·344–345rare, parametric recipe for,

2·344–345Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349

best bets for, 2·344–345bromelain for preparation of, 3·195characteristics of, 2·343chicken, brown, parametric recipe

for, 2·344–345concentrating � avor of, 2·379example recipes for, 2·346–349, 347,

5·25Green Asparagus and Morels with

Asparagus Jus, 2·341Jus de la Presse, 2·347Jus Gras, 4·237Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25mushroom

Mushroom Jus, 2·348parametric recipe for, 2·344–345

mussel, parametric recipe for, 2·344–345

parametric recipe for, 2·344–345Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121,

122reduced, � avor of roux vs., 4·11Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163salmon, rare, parametric recipe for,

2·344–345Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347thickening strategies for, 2·346Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133

jus (continued)Tru� e Jus, 4·53vacuum evaporation for reducing,

2·346


L X X X V I I N D E X

KABOCHA SQUASHKKkabocha squash

Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 5·60, 65

cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290, 292

Kæstur Hákarl, chemistry of, 3·43Kahan, Paul, Achatz’s � rst meal at

elBulli and, 1·38Kalbi Flank Steak, 3·199Kamozawa, Aki

Aerated Gruyère and, 4·312on blanching sous vide, 3·293on browned solids from clari� ed

bu� er, 4·212chicken skin glued to scallops by,

3·252Compressed Melon Terrine recipe,

3·392on cooking whole chicken eggs, 4·75fast hot-spring eggs and, 4·78� sh skin pillows of, 3·131gel � ltration and, 2·369Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe,

4·105Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67Modernist Béchamel and, 4·31Pasta Marinara recipe, 3·386Pulled Mushroom recipe, 3·396smoked eggs by, 4·100Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe,

4·292Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam,

4·269Kansas City BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 68Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68kappa carrageenan

for cold gels, parametric recipe for, 4·140

for � uid gels, parametric recipe for, 4·177


product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128

Karabecue smoker, 3·208Karau, Bill, 3·208Kasper, Lynn Rosse� o, 3·306katsuobushi, 2·143Kaufman, C. W., 3·92Kaufman, Galen, 2·469Keller, � omas

Achatz’s � rst meal at elBulli and, 1·38, 52

Cauli� ower Panna Co� a recipe, 4·142, 162

Curry Oil recipe, 2·331New International cuisine and,

1·30–31oyster and pearls of, 5·205Red-Onion Cream recipe, 3·68Salmon Tartare Cornets recipe, 3·68sous vide cooking and, 1·73Tomato Powder recipe, 3·312

kelp, 5·28Kelp Company, 4·40Kelvin, Lord, 4·246Kelvin Problem, 4·246Kelvin temperature scale, 1·266, 285–286

Kennedy, Rob, liquid nitrogen ice cream and, 1·63

Kentucky BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71Kentucky Fried Chicken franchise,

1·22–23, 76, 2·120Kerala Curry, 5·90, 91, 96keratin, in gizzards, 3·141ketchup

Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13as shear-thinning � uid, 4·6, 176

ketosis, Atkins diet and, 1·242Keurig espresso machine, co� ee

capsules for, 4·400Keys, Ancel

on fat and heart disease, 1·219, 224–225, 226

on Mediterranean diet, 1·232on saturated fats, 1·234

Keys to Good Cooking (McGee), 1·43Kick’s law, 2·401kidneys

characteristics of, 3·141cooking, 3·141

sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146

kielbasa, parametric recipe for, 3·236–237

kilocalories, 1·272kilowa� s, 1·272kimchi

Kimchi, 3·352Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285,

286kimchi consommé, parametric recipe

for, 2·374–375Kinch, David

Beef and Oyster Tartare recipe, 3·66Beef Cheek Pastrami recipe, 3·213Corn Croque� a recipe, 3·341Corn Custard recipe, 4·122“Into the Vegetable Garden” and,

3·294, 4·37 Modernist cuisine and, 1·67Strawberry Gazpacho recipe, 5·277Turbot with Onion and Marrow

Broth recipe, 3·105king trumpet mushrooms, Pulled

Mushroom, 3·396Kistler, Samuel Stephens, 4·72kitchen, Modernist. See Modernist

kitchenkitchen hygiene, 1·200–205

chef ’s accessories for, 1·202–203contaminants and, 1·200disinfecting procedures for, 1·200,

204technology of UV powder and, 1·201

kitchen management, Esco� er’s system for, 1·20

kitchen space, contamination and, 1·200

ki� y li� er, food safety and, 1·126kiwifruit



introduction of, 1·15Klock, Gerd, freeze � ltration and, 2·369kminkowa, parametric recipe for,

3·236–237Knot Foie, 4·144Knox, Charles, 4·67

Koch, Robert, 4·128Kocuria, 3·165Ko� mann, Pierre, 1·28kohlrabi, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·289, 290, 292Kohman, E. F., 2·84Kokonas, Nik, 1·68, 69kombu. See seaweedKomm, Anatoly, 1·70konjac gum


product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·46, 47kori bustard, 1·253K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, 1·28, 29Kra� , James L., 1·24, 4·222Kroc, Ray, 1·21–22, 31kudzu starch, thickening with, 4·28

parametric recipe for, 4·28Kumamoto oysters, in Shigoku Oyster

with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200

kumquatscooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·291Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade,

3·356Kunz, Gray

pacotizing by, 2·407Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked

Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables recipe, 3·111

kuri squashBraised Pine Nuts with Winter

Squash, 5·60, 65cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289, 290Kurti, Nicholas

Erice Conferences and, 1·44, 45liquid nitrogen ice cream and,

1·61–62, 65kuru, as prion disease, 1·158Kusshi oysters, Poached Oysters, 5·233,

236

LLa Broche, 1·57LA gellan. See low-acyl gellanLa Marzocco, 4·398, 400L.A. Provincial cuisine, Puck and, 1·29La Reynière (aka Robert Courtine), 1·26La Varenne, École de, 4·322–325La Varenne, François Pierre de

as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9French cuisine and, 1·19innovations of, 1·20

laboratory scales, for measuring thickeners, 4·23

laboratory sievesfor � ltering, 2·351, 352, 353for Modernist kitchen, 2·286

lactase intolerance, 1·239lactic acid, as acidi� er, 2·314Lactobacillus bulgaricus, 1·134Lactobacillus plantarum, 1·134Lactobacillus san� anciscensis, 1·134Lactococcus lactis, 1·144lactose-free cream, centrifuging to

separate, 2·368Ladenis, Nico, 1·62

Nouvelle cuisine and individuality of, 1·28

L’Air du Temps, 1·70Laiskonis, Michael

Chili Pearls recipe, 4·145innovations of, 1·73

Lake Nyos, Cameroon, carbon dioxide eruption from, 2·466

laksaBurmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121Laksa Broth, 2·307

l’Amador, 1·70lamb. See also sheep

aging, 3·41Braised Lamb Shoulder, 5·81, 83cooking

di� erences for parts of, 3·18sous vide, parametric recipe for,

3·96, 109times for, 1·121

fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in, 3·12

Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 2·348, 5·25leaner, using Activa for making, 3·255Poached Lamb Loin, 5·85, 87Rack of Lamb, 5·25, 29seam cu� ing, 3·45

how to, 3·46searing before vacuum packing of,

2·268lamb stock, parametric recipe for,

2·296–298lamb sweetbreads, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·146lambda carrageenan


product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 128thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·46, 47Lamblia intestinalis, 1·127–128Landhotel Kirchdach, 1·70Lang, George, 5·55

on Hungarian beef goulash, 5·55


I N D E X L X X X V I I

LOCUST BEAN GUM Llangoustines. See also prawns


for, 3·103Seared Langoustine, 5·239, 245

language, evolution of, 1·15lap cheong, parametric recipe for,

3·244–245L’Archestrate, 5·109lard, pork, chemistry of, 2·126larding, 3·84Larousse Gastronomique (Montagné,

1938), 1·9Las Vegas, Nevada, New International

cuisine in, 1·30lasagna, in oldest cookbook in English,

1·10laser (laserpicium), history of, 1·11–12lasers, for smoking, 1·69L’Astrance, 1·64latent heat of vaporization

in AccuTemp griddles, 2·41as phase change, 1·290, 299–300science of how liquid nitrogen boils

and, 2·457steaming and, 2·70

Latin AmericaHorchata drinks in, 4·59Incan and Mayan gastronomy of, 1·13wine innovation in, 4·332

la� e (ca� è la� e)as art form, 4·391–393composition of, 4·393milk foam in, 4·244pa� erns in, how to make, 4·394–395

lava rocks, in gas grills, 2·11laws, U.S. See also U.S. Food and Drug

Administrationon advertising and label health

claims, 1·214on distillation, 1·94, 2·384, 391on food safety, 1·165, 190local, for laboratory equipment, 1·94

LBG. See locust bean gumLD50, foodborne illnesses and,

1·115–116LDL (low-density lipoproteins), 1·226,

227Le Bernardin, 1·73Le Calandre, 1·70Le Postay, 1·70LEARN diet, 1·242leathers

dehydrating formula for, 3·367Mandarin Leather, 3·369

lecithin, soyde-oiled, for airs and froths,

parametric recipe for, 4·264product guide for, 4·II–III

leeksCharred Leek Oil, 5·17, 18cooking sous vide, parametric recipe


3·366Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53

Lefeuvre, Clémence, 4·218legumes. See also speci� c legumes


water content of, 5·XLILeidenfrost, Johann Go� lob, 1·317

Leidenfrost e� ect, 1·317, 2·464, 466lemon verbena


Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 4·273

lemon zest infusion, parametric recipe for, 2·310

lemongrass infusion, parametric recipe for, 2·310

lemonsas acidi� er, 2·314Citrus Air, 4·265cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·291Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234, 5·157Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4·276Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4·180Lemon Strips, 4·61Meyer Lemonade, 2·340Pickled Lemon, 5·273, 275Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227

lentilsLentil Salad plated-dish recipe,

5·267–271pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Sous Vide Lentils, 5·267, 271

Lespinasse. See Kunz, Graylethal dose, foodborne illnesses and,

1·115–116le� uce

cold-smoking, 3·361compressing, parametric recipe for,


2·451, 3·372impregnating, parametric recipe for,

3·390romaine

Caesar Salad, 3·373Smoked Le� uce, 5·11, 15

water content of, 3·273, 276Leung, Alvin, Jr., 1·70libraries, rare-book, freeze-drying by,

2·444licorice

Licorice Powder, 2·405Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155

licorice root infusion, parametric recipe for, 2·310

lids, for pot-roasting or braising pots, 2·96Liebrandt, Paul, 1·69

Foie Gras Cherries recipe, 5·267Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and

Hibiscus Glaze recipe, 4·158–159“Into the Vegetable Garden” and,

3·294Life of Luxury (Archestratos of Gela,

Sicily), 1·12light

cooking meat and seafood and, 3·93–94

infraredblackbodies and, 1·285measuring, 1·287radiation and, 1·284

speed of, � nding with microwave oven, 2·191

ultraviolet. See ultraviolet radiation

light foams, 4·270–277best bets for, 4·270example recipes for, 4·272–277parametric recipe for, 4·270

lignin, smoked food and, 2·134limes

as acidi� er, 2·314Citrus Air, 4·265cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·291Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291Eggless Citrus Curd, 4·234Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268

Lindt, Rudolph, conche machine and, 2·404


linguine, from gel sheets, how to make, 4·134

links, sausage, 3·230, 240Linnaeus, Carl (Linné, Carl von), 1·112,

266lipids, 1·222. See also cholesterol; fats; oilslipoproteins, low-density, 1·226, 227liquamen, 3·195, 5·121liquids. See also speci� c liquids

for breading, 3·338carbonation of, 2·468clarifying with agar, 2·372–373cold, best bets for thickening, 4·46concentrating � avor of, 2·380convection of heat in, 1·282, 283converting grams to volumes for,

5·XXXVIIfermented, intolerance to, 1·239� ltering strategies for, 2·352hot

best bets for thickening, 4·47physics of blowing on, 1·288

internal energy, physics of, 1·301Newtonian, 4·6phase changes and thermal energy

from, 1·290phases of, mouthfeel and, 4·10rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIIIseparating by centrifuging, 2·364shear-thinning, 4·6sous vide technique of extracting,

2·251thickening, 4·5vacuum packing

with chamber sealer, 2·219physics of, 2·215

viscosity of. See viscosityLiquid Center Duck Egg, 5·219, 220liquid nitrogen. See also speci� c

techniques using liquid nitrogenacronym or abbreviation for, 2·456Adrià and, 1·39boiling, science of, 2·457cooking with, 2·456, 458, 459cryogenic freezing using, 2·456culinary life of, 1·60–66, 68, 70culinary strategies for using, 2·459freezing in vacuum of, 1·324freezing using, 1·310–311, 2·258fruit disassembly with, 2·458, 462ice cream freezing with, 1·311meat grinder rinsing with, 3·221,

224–225for Modernist kitchen, 2·284pacotizing and, 2·407, 410peeling eggs with, how to, 4·78

liquid nitrogen (continued)pros and cons of, 2·259research laboratories’ use of, 2·456safe handling of, 2·464, 466, 467sausage grinding and, 3·230sources of, 2·458viscosity of, 4·6

Liquid Pimento Olive, 4·193liquid smoke

chemistry of, 2·149for cold-smoking, 3·361

liquor. See also alcohol (ethanol); speci� c alcoholic beverages

distillation of, 2·384, 390production process for, 1·256seasoning with, 2·317

Lirio, Jack, 1·26Lisińska, Grażyna, 3·322Listeria monocytogenes

as foodborne pathogen, 1·134nisin and replication of, 1·145refrigeration and, 2·257replication limits of, 1·145wine marinade with oregano against,

1·145listeriosis, 1·134liver. See also speci� c animals

characteristics of, 3·138cooking sous vide, 3·146

liver � ukes, 1·123–124LM pectin. See low-methoxyl pectinLMA pectin, as gelling agent, 4·68lobster

biology of, 3·28–30brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172cooking sous vide, parametric recipe


2·451Jus de la Presse, 2·347Lobster Américaine plated-dish

recipe, 5·184–18719th-Century-Style Lobster with

Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107Poached Lobster, 4·219Poached Lobster Tail, 5·185, 187Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454,

5·185as seafood gel, 3·222

lobster mushroomscooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289Lobster Mushroom Con� t, 5·185, 187

local food, current buzz on, 1·248locust bean gum (LBG)

for cold emulsions, 5·187for cold gels, parametric recipe for,

4·140controlling syneresis with, 4·17as foam stabilizer, 4·257for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe

for, 4·165for hot gels, parametric recipe, 4·160interactions with other thickeners,

4·44–45natural source for, 1·253, 257product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43separating bu� erfat from cream

with, 2·366, 368source of, 4·124thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·46, 47


L X X X V I I I I N D E X

LONG ISLAND ICED TEA GEL SHOTLLong Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 4·141lotus root

Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, 201


lotus root chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328

L’Oustau de Baumanière, 1·49lovage, Romans’ use of, 1·11Low Fat “Cream,” 4·57low-acyl (LA) gellan


concentrations for � uid gels of, 4·Vfor edible � lms, parametric recipe

for, 4·60for � uid gels, parametric recipe for,

4·177as foam stabilizer, 4·257for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe



4·44–45as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127,

129for light foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·270product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72for spheri� cation, parametric recipe


for, 4·278–279low-carbohydrate diets, 1·242low-density lipoproteins (LDL), 1·226,

227Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248low-fat diets, 1·241low-methoxyl (LM) pectin


for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60

as gelling agent, 4·68interactions with thickeners, 4·44–45as ion-based coagulant, 4·124, 127,

129product guide for, 4·II–IIIproperties and uses of, 4·42–43, 72spheri� cation using, 4·184

low-pressure drying, 2·433low-temperature, long-time (LTLT)

pasteurization, 1·188low-temperature cooking. See also target

core temperaturedomestic ovens and, 1·207of meat and seafood, 3·94–95sous vide technique and, 2·242thermometer accuracy and,

1·206–207low-temperature steam mode

in combi ovens, 2·167in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158, 159ovens using, 2·155

LTLT (low-temperature, long-time) pasteurization, 1·188

L20 (restaurant), 1·69Lucas Carton, wine pairing at, 4·352

lungoblonding phase and, 4·388evolution of, 4·379

Lutaud, Christian, 1·34lute� sk, 3·200

alkaline marinades for, 3·194lychees

Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees, 5·171, 173

Lychee and Lime Soda, 4·268preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage,

4·233lyophilization, 2·444. See also freeze-

drying

MMac and Cheese, 3·387macchiato, 4·393mackerel


Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 4·175

macroclimates, wine and, 4·329mad cow disease

politics of, 1·160–161prions and, 1·156sheep and, 1·157spread of, 1·159

Madeira Gelée, 5·125, 131Madrid Fusión, 1·59magnesium, as alkali earth metal, 4·126magnetic stirring bar

dispersing thickeners with, 4·24, 25hydrating thickeners with, 4·26hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for vacuum reduction, 2·380

Maillard, Louis Camille, 2·343, 3·92Maillard reaction

baking and, 2·108browning onions and, 3·277century eggs and, 4·83co� ee roasting and, 4·358, 360color changes in cooking meat and

seafood and, 3·94crustaceans and, 3·30, 87deep-frying and, 2·122dry-aging meat and, 3·41� avors produced by, 2·198, 3·89–91heterocyclic amines and, 1·220history of, 3·92meat cooking methods and, 2·343modern methods of braising and,

2·98mollusks and, 3·87oil temperature and, 2·122pot-roasting and, 2·96pressure-cooking and, 3·298ripening of cured meat or seafood

and, 3·173searing before vacuum packing and,

2·268smoking and, 2·141steak frying and, 3·74stir-frying and, 2·48, 54sugar in sausage and, 3·226vegetables and, 2·58

Mainstone, John, 4·9Maison Troisgros, 1·73. See also

Troisgros, Pierre and Jeanmaitake mushrooms, Sautéed Maitake

Mushroom, 5·11, 15malaise, general, common pathogens

causing, 1·114Malaysian Aromatic Oil, 5·167, 168Malaysian Steamed Snapper plated-dish

recipe, 5·167–169malic acid, as acidi� er, 2·314Malt Vinegar Powder, 4·34maltodextrin

as bulking agent with spray-dried powders, 2·442

drying plant foods with, 3·365

maltodextrin DE 8, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60

maltodextrin DE 19, for set foams, parametric recipe for, 4·288–289

Maltrin, thickening with, 4·30parametric recipe for, 4·30

Maltrin M100for light foams, parametric recipe


4·288–289mandarins


Mandarin Leather, 3·369Manet, Edouard, 1·18mangoes

Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·288, 290dehydrating, parametric recipe for,

3·366Green Mango and Cashew Salad,


3·348mannitol, Frozen White “Tru� e,”

3·400–401Manresa, 1·67maple syrup

grades of, 5·77Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128production process for, 1·256

Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128Marangoni e� ect, 4·353marbling

tenderness and, 3·78in Wagyu beef, 3·19, 36

Marchesi, GualtieroNouvelle cuisine and, 1·28Riso� o Milanese recipe, 3·306–307

Marcona Almond Bu� er Paste, 5·281, 282

Maremoto, 1·70margarine, health risks of bu� er vs.,

1·231Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger,

Shiso, 5·197, 200Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177Marinated Spaghe� i Squash, 5·147, 149marinating, 3·190–207

with acid, 3·192–193with alcohol, 3·195, 198with alkaline substances, 3·194–195with curries, 3·196–197of eggs, in vinegar, 4·75with enzymes, 3·195example recipes for, 3·199–206,

5·233fermentation and, 3·198marinades for

acidic, for stomach and intestines, 3·143

calcium chloride in, 3·76strategies for, 3·192

marine-based hydrocolloidsgelling agents from, 4·68, 126for kitchen use, 4·124thickening agents from, 4·5, 19

marmaladeMushroom Marmalade, 5·215, 217Olive Marmalade, 4·99


I N D E X L X X X I X

MELTING POINTS Mmarmalade (continued)

Roasted Scallion Marmalade, 5·253, 255

Shiitake Marmalade, 5·5, 7Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230

“Marmite broth,” parametric recipe for, 2·304–305

marrow. See also veal marrowbonescharacteristics and cooking of, 3·144

Marshall, Agnes, 1·60, 64–65Marx, � ierry, 1·64Masala Curry, 5·90, 91, 98mascarpone cheese

parametric recipe for, 4·56Shrimp and Grits, 3·377

Mason, Samaesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37chocolate water and, 2·374–375Modernist cuisine and, 1·67

mass, conservation of, 1·331Massachuse� s Institute of Technology,

Carl G. Sontheimer Prize for Excellence in Innovation and Creativity in Design of, 2·412

Massialot, François, French cuisine and, 1·19

Master Cleanse, of toxins, 1·248master recipes, parametric recipes

compared to, 1·97masting, as synchronized fruit ripening,

3·284Mathematica (computer program),

1·63–64, 282Matsuhisa, Nobu

Miso-Cured Black Cod recipe, 3·179New International cuisine and, 1·30

matsutake mushrooms, Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203

Maurere, Wilhelm, 2·407maw, 3·142–143Maximin, Jacques, 1·34

Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree recipe, 2·426

Maxwell, James Clerk, 1·265, 285Mayans, gastronomy of, 1·13mayonnaise

Basic Mayonnaise, 4·226, 5·233Eggless Mayonnaise, 4·232as emulsion, 4·199

separation and, 3·224viscosity of, 4·204

Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4·227low-fat, 4·226

MC. See methylcelluloseMCC. See microcrystalline celluloseMcCracken, Brain, Modernist raviolo

al’uovo of, 4·190McCrady’s, 1·67, 83McDonald’s, corporate control and

protests against, 1·22–23McGee, Harold

biography of, 1·43Blumenthal and, 1·50on cold gels, 4·140Erice Conference and, 1·44, 45on experimental cooking, 1·57–58on � ipping food during panfrying,

2·38food science and, 1·5, 42, 44, 52Mac and Cheese recipe, 3·387on Modernist cuisine explosion, 1·46on searing meat to seal in juices, 3·85

McGuckian, Ambrose T., 1·40measures

conversion factors for, 5·XXXVIII–XXXIX

volume, converting, 5·XXXIXweights and, 1·94–95

meats. See also speci� c meatsaging of, 3·39

enzymes and, 3·39, 41, 78holding at speci� c temperature

and, 2·247–248arti� cial, 3·220. See also sausagesblanching, 2·269brining, 3·152, 154–156, 158

best bets for, 3·172equilibrium, how-to, 3·170–171speeding strategies for, 3·166, 173

chemicals as preservatives for, 1·144chopping tools for, 3·230–233cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210color of, 3·12, 14–15cooked, red droplets on, 3·14cooked and � nely chopped,

volumetric equivalents for amounts of, 5·XLV

cooking, 3·70–115on bone, 2·243braising, how to, 2·99collagen role in, 3·80–81color and appearance of, 3·92–93cooling strategies for, 2·256defects of cured meat, chemistry

of, 3·165� avor and, 3·84, 87–91gelatin from, 4·67grilling and. See grillingideal temperature for, 3·89innards of, 3·136–151juiciness and, 3·79, 83muscles and, 3·5myth of searing to seal juices and,

3·85optics of, 3·93–94pot-roasting and, how to, 2·99red, in combi ovens vs. water baths,

2·167–168safe, principles for, 1·191searing and, 2·58, 269, 3·85simpli� ed cooking standards for,

1·192skin and, 3·116–129, 133–135sous vide, 2·201, 276–279sous vide, on bone vs. � llet, 2·207stages from raw to cooked and,

3·76, 78–79succulence and, 3·83–84tenderness and, 3·70, 76trade-o� s in, 3·94–95white and gray droplets on surface

during, 3·94cured, ripening of, 3·167, 173curing, 3·158–162, 165–166

best bets for, 3·172speeding strategies for, 3·166, 173

cu� ing, 3·44–50tools for, 3·230–233

dark. See dark meat; red meatextended and simpli� ed 6.5D

Salmonella reduction in, 1·193fat, as tough cut, science of, 3·83fat component of, 3·15, 18

meats (continued) FDA time-and-temperature table for,

1·183, 185, 187as � ning agent, 2·359, 360� avor and temperature of, 3·88–89� avor of, Maillard reaction and,

3·89–91freeze-drying, critical temperature

for, 2·446gassing, for color, chemistry of, 3·95gels and. See meat gelsglue and, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also

Activagrading, 3·35–36, 39grinding

grinders for. See meat grinderstools for, 3·230–233

grinding fat and, how to, 3·228ground

converting grams to volume for, 5·XLII

for stock, 2·290juiciness of, age of animal and, 3·79,

81le� over, chemistry of � avor of, 3·91marinating, 3·190–207meat glue and, 3·250–256muscle and

characteristics of, 3·6–19converting into meat, 3·32–36, 39,

41–42punctured, hazards of, 1·176raw, 3·62–69

example recipes for, 3·65–68fat content of, 5·XLIII

red. See red meatresting

e� ects of, 3·84juices and, 2·105

restructuredmeat glue and, 3·250–256sausage as. See sausages

salting. See brining; curingsausages. See sausagesslaughtering practices for

Grandin’s research on, 3·36quality and, 3·32, 34–35

slicers for, 2·286, 3·44, 50smoking, 3·208–219

best bets for, 3·210example recipe for, 3·213ideal surface for, 3·211parametric recipe for, 3·210

sources for, 5·XXXIIIfor stocks, 2·288tartares and, 3·62–69temperature and � avor of, 3·88–89tender cuts of. See tender cuts of meattenderizing enzymes in, 3·78tenderizing of

food safety and, 1·191foodborne illnesses and, 1·176mechanical, 1·176, 191, 3·10, 50–51muscle structure and, 3·10tenderizers for, 1·176, 2·286. See

also Jaccard tenderizerstenderness of, 3·10–11

Warner-Bratzler tenderometer estimates of, 3·77

tough cuts of. See tough cuts of meatTrichinella contamination of, 1·117–

118, 120, 121, 122, 179

meats (continued)trimmings from, for searing � avor

without presearing, 2·268vegetarian dishes simulating, 3·388water content of, 5·XLof young vs. older animals, juiciness

and, 3·79, 81meat band saw, for Modernist kitchen,

2·285meat ba� er, 3·222Meat Cuts and Muscle Foods (Swatland),

3·44meat gels

embedding meat in, 3·250of emulsi� ed sausages, 3·222myosin as, 3·70, 222–223for sausage-making, 3·70, 222–223

meat glue, 3·250–256, 4·70. See also Activa

meat grindersbit-and-plate, 3·231, 233cutaway illustration of, 3·229grinding plates for, typical aperture

sizes of, 3·228liquid nitrogen rinse of, 3·221,

224–225Meat Inspection Act, 3·35meat slicers

Berkel, 3·44for Modernist kitchen, 2·286for very thin slices, 3·50

meat tenderizersJaccard. See Jaccard tenderizersfor Modernist kitchen, 2·286penetrating, hazards with, 1·176

meatballs, as coarse sausage, 3·222, 230meatloaf, as coarse sausage, 3·222mechanical tenderizing, of meat, 3·50–51

food safety and, 1·191foodborne illnesses and, 1·176muscle structure and, 3·10

medals, for wines, 4·338–339medical dietary systems, 1·222–239Mediterranean diet, 1·232, 241, 242medlars, ble� ing to ripen, 3·283Lo mejor de la gastronomía, 1·59melanoidin pigments, in fruits and

vegetables, 2·267Meli� a co� ee brewer, 4·369melons

Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392compressing, parametric recipe for,


for, 3·288Ham Consommé with Melon Beads,



3·390Melon Caviar, 4·189Melon Water, 2·340preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Prosciu� o and Melon “Raw Egg,”

4·194Watermelon Chips, 3·328Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285, 286

melon chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328melting points. See also freezing point

of frying oils, 2·126


X C I N D E X

MEMBRANE-TYPE VACUUM PUMPSMmembrane-type vacuum pumps

� ltration with, 2·354, 357for Modernist kitchen, 2·284vacuum reduction using, 2·380, 381

membranes, reverse osmosis through, 2·379, 396

memoryBlumenthal’s use of, 1·51García’s use of, 1·57

Memphis BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68Meneau, Marc, Cromesquis recipe,

3·340merguez, parametric recipe for,

3·236–237meringues

Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161, 165

Green Olive Meringue, 4·298as set foam, 4·247

meta-analysisde� nition of, 1·216of dietary fat and heart disease,

1·230randomized trials vs., 1·219of salt and hypertension, 1·236, 237of statins and heart disease, 1·227

metal searing bars, in gas grills, 2·11metallic bonding, 1·296metals

alkali earth, 4·126conductivity of, 1·277

metastabilityof emulsions, 4·199of foams, 4·248

methanol, as ethanol distillation by-product, 2·384

Methocel E4M, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60

Methocel SGA 150, for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60

methylcellulose (MC)for cellulose gum gels, parametric

recipe for, 4·170, 171for � ltering or clarifying, 2·352as � ning agent, 2·359, 360foam, 4·255gels, best bets for, 4·171interactions with other thickeners,

4·44–45product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43Santamaria on, 1·258thermo-reversible gels from, 4·127

methylcellulose A4C, for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279

methylcellulose E4M, for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe for, 4·165

methylcellulose F50, for set foams, parametric recipe for, 4·288–289

metmyoglobin, 3·93metric units, converting energy and

power units using, 1·272–273Meyer Lemonade, 2·340miang kham, 5·189Miang Paste, 5·189, 190Miang Syrup, 5·189, 191micelle, 4·199Michelin Guide, 1·24, 26Micri, 4·29microaerophilic bacteria, 1·130

microbes. See also bacteria; pathogens; viruses

contamination bybad odors from sealed bags and,

2·214shell� sh foraging and, 3·27–28

gelling agents from, 4·126as germs, 1·106–109microbiology of, 1·106–109Pasteur on food spoilage and, 2·75

microbial-based hydrocolloids, as thickeners, 4·19

microbiology, 1·102–161of foodborne illnesses, 1·110–119of foodborne pathogens, 1·108–109of microbes as germs, 1·106–109microscopes for study of, 1·107of parasitic worms, 1·120–125of prions, 1·156–161of protists, 1·126–129scienti� c names in, 1·112of viruses, 1·152–156

microclimates, wine and, 4·329microcrystalline cellulose (MCC)


product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43as thickener, 4·12–13thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·47microemulsions, science of, 4·205Micrographia (Hooke), 1·107microorganisms, 1·106. See also

bacteria; microbes; virusesmicrooxygenation (MOX), in

viticulture, 4·330–331Microplane graters

Adrià’s use of, 1·36, 3·388cu� ing vegetables for frying with,

3·327microporous � ltration, 1·335microscopes, history and parts of, 1·107microwave ovens

characteristics of, 2·182–183, 189cutaway illustration of, 2·186–187drying in, 2·430FDA rules on, 1·189heating small foods slowly in,

physics of, 2·188invention of, 1·22, 2·182–183for Modernist kitchen, 2·287moisture content of food and, 2·153myths and reality of, physics of,

2·190parts of, 2·184plant food cooking in, 3·310–313radiant heat from, 1·277safety, 2·190speed of light in, physics of � nding,

2·191strategies for using, 2·185

Microwaved Beef Jerky, 3·184, 5·43Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,

4·294Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and

Ginger, 3·115microwaved vegetables

example recipes for, 3·312–313parametric recipe for, 3·311

Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot

Tops, 5·49, 53

microwavesde� nition of, 2·182freeze-drying and, 2·444

Middle Ages, gastronomy of, 1·12middle run, in distillation, 2·384Mie sca� ering, in emulsions, 4·203milk. See also milks

allergies to, 1·238almond, parametric recipe for, 4·56bu� er from, 3·92Cappuccino Foam, 4·266carotenoid pigments and, 3·92Cauli� ower Crème Anglaise, 4·89chocolate, as colloidal suspension,

4·176chufa. See chufa milkcolors of, 3·92, 4·202cow, allergies to, 1·238dairy-based emulsions and, 4·218colors of, 4·202fat content and steaming of, 4·391,

392foaming agent in, 4·251fresh, frigi-canning and, 2·84goat

carotenoid pigments and, 3·92color of, 4·202Goat Milk Rico� a, 4·108

hydrating LA gellan with, 4·124–125Milk Foam, 5·31, 33Milk Skin, 5·205Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and

Tru� e Puree, 4·114as oil-in-water emulsion, 4·199parametric recipe for, 4·56powdered, in fermented sausage,

3·246soy

Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401Soy Milk, 4·58

steamingfor espresso, 4·391–395how to, 4·390

Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59viscosity of, 4·6

milk curd, basic, parametric recipe for, 4·104

Milk Foam, 5·31, 33milk frother. See also Aerola� e milk

frotherfor espresso, 4·391foam forming with, 4·258, 260

milk shake machinefoam forming with, 4·258, 259for Modernist kitchen, 2·287

Milk Skin, 5·205Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and

Tru� e Puree, 4·114milks, making, best bets for, 4·56Millau, Christian, 1·24, 26milling. See also grinding; pureeing

equipment for, 2·401–402, 404. See also colloid mills

example recipes for, 2·419, 3·377frozen nuts, 3·374of plant foods, 3·376–377strategies for, 2·400

minerals, dissolved. See also dissolved materials

hard water and, 1·335minibar (restaurant), 1·63, 67Minnesota Coronary Survey, 1·229, 230

mint, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372

miracle berry, Nigerian, 2·465mirepoix, for stocks, 2·288mirin, Yakitori, 3·201miscible substances, 1·331, 332Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3·179Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4·87miso-cured egg yolks, parametric recipe

for, 4·82mixers

foam forming with, 4·258for Modernist kitchen, 2·287

MKS (meter, kilogram, second) units, 1·272

mock dishes, types of, 3·388Mock Turtle Soup, 2·394modern ovens. See also combi ovens;

convection ovens; CVap water-vapor ovens; microwave ovens; ovens; water-vapor ovens

heat and humidity control testing in, 2·156–157

improvement proposals for, 2·167temperature control by, 2·112

ModernCure, for brining or curing, 3·158

Modernism. See also Modernist cuisineas megatrend in culture, 1·17–18Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·52, 56as revolution in culture, 1·52

Modernist Béchamel, 4·31Modernist Burrata, 4·109Modernist cuisine

Achatz and, 1·68Adrià, elBulli, and, 1·33–40in America, 1·67Blumenthal, � e Fat Duck, and,

1·49–51Capel and, 1·59in Chicago, 1·69copying in, history of, 1·71critical responses to, history of,

1·62–63cryogens in, 1·60–66, 68, 70forms of dishes in, 1·54–55future of, 1·72–73, 76–77history of, 1·32–51ideas and owners in, 1·70–72Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67ingredients for. See Modernist

ingredientskitchen for. See Modernist kitchennovelty as cult in, 1·58–60Pralus and, 1·42principles of, 1·56as revolution, 1·5, 52–77Roca and, 1·58Santos and, 1·59science in the kitchen and, 1·42,

44–49seeds of, 1·32–51sous vide at home and, 1·73in Spain, history of, 1·57spread of, 1·38–40Steingarten and, 1·65timeline of recipes and techniques

in, 1·78–81trade secrets and, history of, 1·76utensils and plating styles in, 1·74–75vacuum packing and, 1·40–42wine pairing and, 4·352around the world, 1·70


I N D E X X C I

MYOTOMES MModernist Cuisine

baker’s percentage in, 1·95–97credit for recipes in, 1·100–101guide to, 1·89–91ingredients and equipment in,

1·93–94photographs in, 1·88–89recipes in, 1·92–101

types of, 1·97–100weights and measures in, 1·94–95writing and producing, story of,

1·82–91Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337Modernist ingredients, 1·250–259

as additives, perceptions of, 1·252–254

chemical processes for, 1·250–252chemical processing of common

foods in, 1·256as chemistry, health concerns about,

1·212informed decisions about, 1·258–259natural ingredients vs., 1·254–255new naturals for, 1·257Santamaria’s claims about, 1·258sources for, 5·XXXIII

Modernist kitchen, 2·280–473concentrates in, 2·378–397cryogenic freezing and carbonation

in, 2·456–473drying in, 2·428–455equipment for, sources of,

5·XXX–XXXIIextracting � avors in, 2·288–317� ltering in, 2·350–377infusing essences in, 2·318–331juicing in, 2·332–349particle size reduction in, 2·398–427tools for

classic, 2·287handy special-purpose, 2·285inexpensive but valuable, 2·286must-have, 2·284technology and, 2·283, 286

Modernist raviolo al’uovo, 4·190Modernist sausages, example recipes

for, 3·248–249modi� ed starches

best bets for thickening with, 4·30as foam stabilizers, 4·257natural source for, 1·257organic label for, 1·245

modi� ed-atmosphere packing, for sous vide, 2·212

moist air, example recipes for cooking with, 2·176–177, 180–181

moisture. See also humidity; hydrationin deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117,

118–119, 125in food

humectants and, 2·428microwave ovens and, 2·153

in shallow frying, 2·127–128water-vapor ovens and. See CVap

water-vapor ovens; water-vapor ovens

Mojitos, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4·188

molassesBlackstrap Molasses Country Ham,

3·183Molasses Bu� er, 2·331

moldon canned food, sterilization process

and, 2·80on ripening cured meat or seafood,

3·173molded spheri� cation, 4·184molds, silicone, for Modernist kitchen,

2·286Molecular and Physical Gastronomy

conference, Erice, Italy (1992), 1·44–46, 65

molecular gastronomycritics on mad scientists and, 1·62goals of, historical shi� s in, 1·47as Modernist cooking, 1·46–47origins of, 1·44� is on, 1·46

mollusks. See also clams; mussels; octopus; oysters; scallops; snails; squid

biology of, 3·24–26Maillard reaction of, 3·87

Monell Chemical Senses Center, 4·335Monet, Claude, 1·17, 18monk� sh


Monk� sh with Constructed Skin, 3·132

Monk� sh with Mediterranean Flavors plated-dish recipe, 5·151–155

in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149Sous Vide Monk� sh Pavé, 5·151, 155uniform musculature of, 3·53

monk� sh liver, Ankimo Torchon, 3·147monoglycerides, as surfactant

emulsi� ers, 4·216–217monosodium glutamate (MSG)

for brines and cures, 3·160safety of, 1·213

monounsaturated fat, 1·222Montagné, Prosper, 1·9Monterey Jack cheese, Cheese in a

Tube, 4·225moose, chronic wasting disease in,

1·159morels

Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus, 2·341

Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Stu� ed Morels, 5·113, 117

Moroccan Batbout Flat Bread, 5·135, 139

Morrison, William, 1·60mortadella, parametric recipe for,

3·238–239mortar and pestle, 2·400Morton Tender Quick curing salt

for brining or curing, 3·158composition of, 3·161

Moschion, 1·13Motecuhzoma, 1·13motility, of bacteria, 1·130moto (restaurant), 1·67, 69, 72. See also

Cantu, Homaromotorized aspirators

for Modernist kitchen, 2·284vacuum � ltration with, 2·356for vacuum reduction, 2·380

motors, power output of, 1·274Moulard duck, foie gras production in,

3·138

Mound Builders, gastronomy of, 1·13mouthfeel

gel selection and, 4·73gelling with hydrocolloids and,

4·124importance of, 4·6, 10oils for deep-frying and, 2·126thickeners and, 4·12–13, 15, 17thickening and, 4·5

MOX (microoxygenation), in viticulture, 4·330–331

mozoku, 5·28mozzarella cheese

Mozzarella Balloons, 4·110–111Mozzarella Powder, 2·411

MSG (monosodium glutamate)for brines and cures, 3·160safety of, 1·213

mucilage, of co� ee beans, 4·358Mugaritz, 1·57. See also Aduriz, Andoni

LuisMughal Curry Sauce, 5·89, 90, 92mule duck, foie gras production in,

3·138Multiple Risk Factor Intervention Trial,

1·229multistep deep-frying, 2·122–123mung beans, pu� ed, parametric recipe

for, 4·302Munster cheese, Alsatian Munster

Sausage, 5·35, 39Murata, Yoshihiro

Hon Dashi recipe, 2·306Peanut “Tofu” and and, 4·122Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi,

Sesame, Ponzu recipe, 5·197, 202muria, 5·121Muscat grapes

Compressed Muscat Grapes, 5·109, 110

in Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200

White Grape Syrup, 4·52muscle � bers, 3·6 muscles, 3·6–31

in cephalopods, 3·24–25contracting, 3·8–9converting to meat or seafood of,

3·32–43cooking meat and seafood and, 3·5fast-twitch. See fast-twitch musclesfat and, 3·15, 18–19meat color and, 3·12–15, 16–17in seafood, 3·20–31slow-twitch. See slow-twitch musclestenderness and, 3·10–11working of, 3·6–31

museums, freeze-drying by, 2·444mushroom jus

Mushroom Jus, 2·348parametric recipe for, 2·344–345

mushrooms. See also speci� c types of mushrooms



freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 3·372


mushrooms (continued)Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,

4·275Mushroom Broth, 5·11, 14Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13Mushroom Marmalade, 5·215, 217Mushroom Omelet plated-dish

recipe, 5·215–217Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Mushroom Swiss Burger plated-dish

recipe, 5·11–15preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348puree of

Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216parametric recipe for, 2·425

Muslim Curry Sauce, 5·89–91, 93muslin sheets, for � ltering, 2·351mussel jus, parametric recipe for,

2·344–345mussels


for, 3·103Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres,

4·191Sous Vide Mussel, 5·151, 154Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot

Sabayon, 4·274mustard

Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 5·35, 37Mustard Vinaigre� e, 4·231Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil,

5·281, 283mustard seeds, preserving, parametric

recipe for, 3·348Myhrvold, Nathan

on � rst God shot, 4·375Pacojets and, 2·407on writing Modernist Cuisine, 1·83

myocommata, 3·21myo� brils, 3·6, 8–9myoglobin

cooked food color and appearance and, 3·92–93

on cooked meat surfaces, 3·14gassing meat and, chemistry of, 3·95oxidation of meat and, 2·201, 3·12,

14oxygen levels and states of, 3·93in seal meat, 3·15searing meat and, 3·85in tuna, 3·21

myosepta, 3·21myosin

frictional heat and, 3·230Jaccard tenderizers and, 3·51as meat gel, 3·70, 222as meat glue, 3·250in muscle, 3·6

myotomes, 3·21, 23


X C I I I N D E X

NACKA SYSTEMNNNacka system, Swedish hospitals and

vacuum packing using, 1·40nailbrushes

for handwashing, 1·196–197, 198for mushroom washing, 1·199

naked frying, 3·317, 321best bets for, 3·320chemistry of, 3·320coated frying vs., 3·316, 318–319

naked porta� lters, 4·385. See also crotchless porta� lters

nanoemulsions, 4·238–239example recipes for, 4·238–239science of, 4·205

nano� ltration, in viticulture, 4·330Nanophyetus salmincola, 1·124Napa cabbage

Braised Napa Cabbage, 5·109, 111Kimchi, 3·352

Napoléon Bonaparte, 2·75, 84Napoleon III, 2·84, 4·331–332NASA (National Aeronautics and Space

Administration), 1·40–42National Advisory Commi� ee on

Microbiological Criteria for Foods, 1·181

National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), 1·40–42, 195, 3·372

National Gum and Mica Company, 4·40National Institutes of Health, 1·215National Pork Board, 1·179National Starch, 4·40National Toxicology Program, 1·220Native Americans, acorn cooking by,

1·6natural convection

from air, heat transfer coe� cient of, 1·283

de� nition of, 1·282natural foods, toxins in, 3·267Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138navy beans

Baked Beans, 5·67, 77Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans,

5·81, 83necrotizing enteritis, 1·141nectarines, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·288nematodes, 1·120–123

anisakid, 1·122–123Ascaris lumbricoides as, 1·123Trichinella as. See Trichinella spiralis;

trichinellosisnervous system, prion diseases and,

1·156–157Nespresso capsule system, 4·400ne� les, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·290neurologic symptoms, common

pathogens causing, 1·114New American cuisine, history of,

1·28–29� e New England Journal of Medicine,

1·213New Guinea, cannibalism and kuru in,

1·159New International cuisine, history of,

1·29–31

New York Cityhealth department of

on salt content of processed food, 1·237

sous vide rules of, 1·188, 195Modernist cuisine in, 1·69New International cuisine in, 1·30

� e New York Times Magazine, 1·188New Zealand, screw tops for wine

bo� les in, 4·344–345Newtonian � uids, 4·6Nigerian miracle berry, 2·465nigiri sushi, how to slice � sh for, 3·6019th-Century-Style Lobster with

Sherry and Cocoa, 3·107nisin, as food preservative, 1·144–145nitrates. See also saltpeter; sodium

nitratechemistry of, 3·160in cured meats, safety of, 1·143intolerance to, 1·239in sel rose, 3·162USDA on cured foods with, 3·165

nitrites. See also sodium nitritebene� ts of, 3·165chemistry of, 3·160for food preservation, 1·144–145USDA on cured foods with,

3·165–166Nitro Green Tea Sour, dramatic e� ects

of, 1·51Nitro Scrambled Egg and Bacon Ice

Cream, dramatic e� ects of, 1·51NitroCream LLC, 1·63nitrogen

Guinness beer cans pressurized with, 4·251

liquid. See liquid nitrogenphase diagram of, 1·303solubility in water of, 1·330, 333,

4·243wine preservation with, 4·346, 348

nitrogen dioxide, 3·95nitrosamines

chemistry of, 3·160conversion of nitrates into, 3·165–166in cured meats, safety of, 1·143

nitrous oxide (NO2)as foaming gas, 4·255, 256solubility in water of, 1·332

Noble, Ann, 4·339Nobu, New International cuisine and,

1·29Noguchi, Soichi, 2·445Noma, 1·70. See also Redzepi, Renénoncirculating water baths, for sous

vide cooking, 2·232, 234nonclimacteric fruits, ripening,

3·283–284nonin� ammatory diarrhea, 1·114noninvasive infections

bacteria causing, 1·133, 135–136, 138–141

de� nition of, 1·110nonionic compounds, 1·330nonmedical dietary systems, 1·240–249nonpolar, de� nition of, 4·199nonpolar solvents, 1·330noodles. See also pasta


gel, how to extrude, 4·138with peristaltic pump, 4·139

Norén, Nilson agar for clarifying liquids, 2·372Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 3·206Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil

recipe, 2·367on Fizz-Giz system, 3·207freeze � ltration and, 2·369French fries by, 3·322Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 4·181Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe,

3·324Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe,

4·97pressure-cooked stock testing by,

2·87on unvented pressure-cookers for

stocks, 2·292normale, evolution of, 4·379noroviruses (Norwalk-like viruses)

food contamination by, 1·154foodborne illnesses due to,

1·153–154spreading, mathematics of, 1·153

North Carolina (Eastern Region) BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70

North Carolina (Lexington-Style) BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 71

“� e Nose Smells What the Eye Sees,” 4·335

nostalgia. See memorynougatine, Dried Cherry and Hazelnut

Nougatine, 5·267, 270Le Nouveau Guide, 1·24, 26Nouvelle cuisine

Adrià’s study of, 1·34development of, 1·5, 24, 26–31Modernism and, 1·52, 56reductions and, 4·11

stocks vs., for extracting � avors, 2·288

Nouvelle Première trains, France, 1·41Novation Prima 600, thickening with,

4·30parametric recipe for, 4·30

novelty, cult of, 1·58–60NSEW technique, for grooming

espresso, 4·381, 383nucleate boiling, 1·316, 317

thin sauces and, 2·68nucleation sites

boiling and, 1·316in a Champagne � ute, 4·333etched on glass, for beer or

Champagne, 4·251phase changes and, 1·304

nucleus of the solitary tract, 4·341Nukazuke, 3·354Nurses’ Health Study, 1·214, 230–231,

241nut bu� er

milling, 2·418for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289nutmeg extract, parametric recipe for,

2·326nutmeg infusion, parametric recipe for,

2·310nutritional epidemiology, 1·218–220nuts. See also speci� c types of nuts

about, 5·244converting grams to volumes for,

5·XXXVIIfrozen, milling of, 3·374

nuts (continued)milling, 3·376seasonal mélanges with, 3·294typical

fat content of, 5·XLIIIwater content of, 5·XLI

volumetric equivalents for amounts of, 5·XLV

N-Zorbit (N-Zorbit M)for edible � lms, parametric recipe

for, 4·60Spinach Paper, 3·369thickening with, 4·5, 7, 13, 19, 30,

34–36parametric recipes for, 4·30, 60


I N D E X X C I I I

OXTAIL OOoats

Candied Pu� ed Oats, 5·125, 128Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso� o,

3·308Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133

obesity, 1·23, 243weight loss diets and, 1·240–241

observation bias, nutritional studies and, 1·218

octopusbiology of, 3·24–25cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·108Smoked Octopus, 3·215Sous Vide Octopus, 5·193, 194

odds ratio, nutritional studies and, 1·219

odorsagreeable. See aromasbad

microbial taints and, 1·135from sealed bags, 2·214

o� ensive, when cooking cured meat or seafood, 3·165

of urine, asparagus and, 4·350Odyssey (Homer), 1·13, 3·220Oeufs en Meure� e plated-dish recipe,

5·219–221o� al. See innardsogo, 5·28

Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion

continuous phase and, 4·199creaming as failure of, 4·210nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239

oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) emulsionBancro� ’s rule and, 4·203continuous phase and, 4·199

oils, 2·114–131. See also essential oils; frying; speci� c types of oils

chemical changes in, heat-induced, 2·123–125

co� ee brewing in, 4·371con� t cooking in. See con� tscryopoaching, 2·460emulsi� ers in, 2·123, 125extracting � avor with, 2·323� ash points of, 2·126� avored

Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, 2·367

Curry Oil, 2·331Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330

for frying, chemistry of, 2·126hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·40hydrolysis of, 2·123melting points of, 2·126saturated vs. unsaturated, 2·126for sautéing, 2·44for shallow frying, 2·127–128smoke points of, 2·116, 125, 126smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362stability of, 2·126thickening, 4·13typical, fat content of, 5·XLIIIvacuum frying and, 2·128

okraCrispy Okra, 5·90, 97preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Raw Okra, 5·97

oleic acid, 1·233, 234oleoresins, 2·320olive oil

Black Olive Oil, 5·193, 195chemistry of, 1·233, 2·126fa� y acids in, 1·234heart disease and, 1·232, 234Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 4·147Olive Oil “Margarine,” 4·235Olive Oil Noodles, 4·146Olive Oil Spread, 4·51smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362� ickened Oil, 4·230Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35

olives. See also Black Olive entries; green olives


omega-3 fats, 1·231–232Omelet Base, 5·215, 217omelets

in combi oven vs. conventional oven, 4·95

Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4·95Japanese (tamago), parametric

recipe for, 4·92Mushroom Omelet, 5·215–217Omelet Base, 5·215, 217parametric recipe for, 4·92

On Food and Cooking (McGee), 1·42, 43, 44, 49, 3·85

1D reduction, in bacteria for sanitizing food, 1·148, 149

160 Bloom gelatinfor airs, parametric recipe for, 4·264for cold gels, parametric recipe for,


for, 4·60for � uid gels, parametric recipe for,

4·177for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe

for, 4·165for light foams, parametric recipe


4·288–289for thick foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·278–279thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·47onions

Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3·302compressing, parametric recipe for,



3·366Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3·373,

5·261, 263freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

3·372Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·261, 263impregnating, parametric recipe for,

3·390Onion Arle� e, 5·261, 262

onions (continued)Onion Fluid Gel, 4·183Onion Gratin, 5·261, 265Onion Rings, 3·342–343, 5·11Onion Sablé, 5·261, 263Onion Stock, 5·261, 264Onion Tart plated-dish recipe,

5·261–265puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion,

5·219, 221Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53Sweet Onion Salsa, 5·175, 177Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onions,

5·17, 19Turbot with Onion and Marrow

Broth, 3·105onsen eggs, parametric recipe for

cooking, 4·78onsen tamago, 4·75, 78oocysts

Cryptosporidium parvum, 1·129de� nition of, 1·115Entamoeba histolytica, 1·129Giardia intestinalis, 1·129Toxoplasma gondii, hardiness of,

1·126, 129opacity

of emulsions, 4·203gel selection and, 4·73

“OpenCola,” 4·239optics

cooking meat and seafood and, 3·93–94

of emulsions, physics of, 4·203Orange Soda, 2·472oranges. See also blood oranges

as acidi� er, 2·314Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao,


for, 3·291Hot Orange Gel, 4·167Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused

Milk, 3·103Mandarin Leather, 3·369Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138Orange Soda, 2·472Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade,

3·356oregano, antimicrobial properties of

wine and, 1·145organ meats. See innardsorganic food

as dietary system, 1·245–247pesticides and, 1·252–253

Ornish, Dean, 1·242, 244O’Shea, Jack, 3·48Osmanthus vinegar, about, 5·172osmosis

brining and, 3·154drying with salt and sugar and, 3·346freezing and thawing liver and, 3·138juicing and, 2·335, 336reverse. See reverse osmosis

osmotic pressure, juicing and, 2·335Osso Bucco Milanese plated-dish

recipe, 5·60–65Osteria La Francescana, 1·70

ostrich, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99

Ostwald ripeningas emulsion failure, 4·212in foams, 4·249ouzo/pastis e� ect and, 4·211

Oud Sluis, 1·70L’Oustau de Baumanière, 1·49outgassing, decanting wine and, 4·342,

343Outhier, Louis, 1·26ouzo e� ect, science of, 4·211oven � nishing, in sous vide cooking,

2·270oven mi� s

conduction in, 1·277, 280silicone, 1·280

ovens, 2·150–191braising using, 2·96combi. See combi ovensconvection. See convection ovensconventional, convection and

radiant heat in, 1·286evolution of uses for, 2·101foam forming with, 4·258humidity in, 2·102

heat control and, 2·153manufacturers of, “BTU” as used by,

1·272microwave. See microwave ovensmodern. See also combi ovens; CVap

water-vapor ovens; water-vapor ovensheat and humidity control testing

in, 2·156–157improvement proposals for, 2·167temperature control by, 2·112

for Modernist kitchen, 2·284moist air, 2·154–181pot-roasting using, 2·96temperature control in, 1·207thermostats for, 2·111vacuum, 2·433, 4·310water-vapor. See water-vapor ovenswood-� red, 2·26–27, 33

overcookingfood safety rules and, 1·170, 191reheating and, 2·264

O/W (oil-in-water) emulsioncontinuous phase and, 4·199creaming as failure of, 4·210nanoemulsions as, 4·238–239

O/W/O (oil-in-water-in-oil) emulsionBancro� ’s rule and, 4·203continuous phase and, 4·199

oxidationaging braises and pot roasts and,

2·98of fats

dry-aging meat and, 3·41freezer taste and, 1·306

� avor changes in frozen food and, 2·261

food preservation and, 2·252myoglobin pigment in meat and,

2·201vacuum packing and, 2·208

oxtailBoeuf in Gelée, 4·163cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·109Glazed Oxtail, 5·49, 50Oxtail Consommé, 2·376


X C I V I N D E X

OXTAILOoxtail (continued)

Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52

oxygenmyoglobin color in meat and seafood

and, 3·92–93removal from un� nished wine

bo� les, 4·346solubility in water of, 1·330, 333,

4·243oxygenation

decanting wine and, 4·342–343wine aroma and, 4·350

oxymyoglobin, 3·93oyster mushrooms


Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100oysters

Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3·66Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3·206, 5·233biology of, 3·26, 27Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa,

4·121cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210contamination of, 3·28cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·103fecal contamination of, 1·117noroviruses and, 1·153, 155Oyster Beignet, 5·25, 28Oyster Bu� er Emulsion, 5·233, 236Oyster Consommé, 5·205, 206Oyster Escabeche, 5·205, 206Oyster Stew plated-dish recipe,

5·205–207Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277Oysters Guggenheim Bilbao, 1·57Oysters with Mignone� e Air, 4·265Poached Oysters, 5·233, 236seasonal ban on, politics of, 1·171Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes,

Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200

Ppackaging, plastic

for edge sealers, 2·222for impulse sealers, 2·225molding sausage with, 3·241selection of, 2·210–211sous vide cooking and, 2·207

Pacojet, 2·406–411breaking down food with, 2·398,

400, 406–411example recipes for, 2·410–411history of, 2·407meat ba� ers made in beaker of,

3·231, 233for Modernist kitchen, 2·284tartares and raw meat preparation

with, 3·62Pacojet Pea Soup, 2·410pacotizing, 2·406–411Pad � ai, 3·385Paella Rice, 5·239, 241Paella Stock, 5·239, 240Paella Valenciana plated-dish recipe,

5·239–245Pain d’Épices Powder, 5·17, 22pale so� exudate (PSE), adrenaline and,

3·34palm oil, chemistry of, 2·126palm olein oil, chemistry of, 2·126Palmer, Charlie, New International

cuisine and, 1·30palmitic acid, 1·233pan scrapings, 2·343pancreas, 5·32. See also sweetbreads

characteristics and cooking of, 3·140paneer, parametric recipe for, 4·104panfrying. See also griddles; shallow

fryingbasting and, physics of, 2·103characteristics of, 2·37a� er cooking sous vide, 2·275� ipping food in, 2·38–39griddles for, 2·40–41heat transfer by conduction in, 1·277a la plancha, 2·36–43pans and burner choices for, 2·41–43

pansfor combi ovens, 2·166dark-surfaced, radiant heat and, 2·38frying, seasoning of, 2·53for sautéing, 2·45for searing a la plancha, 2·41–43as vacuum containers, 2·226–227

papacy, early gastronomy of, 1·10papain, 3·195papayas

Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348paper pod systems, for espresso,

technology of, 4·400paper towels, disposable, kitchen

hygiene and, 1·200papers

dehydrating formula for, 3·367Seafood Paper, 3·188Spinach Paper, 3·369

Papin, Denis, pressurized boiler of, 2·76paprika infusion, parametric recipe for,

2·310

Paracelsus, 3·160Paradoxurus hermaphroditus, Kopi

Luwak co� ee and, 4·360paragonimiasis, 1·124parametric recipes

for acidi� ers, 2·314–315for ba� er-frying, 3·332–333for blended egg gels, 4·92for breading, 3·338–339for brines, cures, and dry rubs,

3·168–172for broth, 2·304–305for cellulose gum gels, 4·170–171for coarse-ground sausages,

3·236–237for cold gels, 4·140–141for compressed and impregnated

fruits and vegetables, 3·390–391for compressed fruits and vegetables,

3·390–391for consommé, 2·374–375for cooked whole eggs, 4·78–79for custards, 4·84for dehydrated fruits and vegetables,

3·366–367for edible � lms, 4·60for emulsion-style sausages,

3·238–239for extracting � avor with alcohol,

2·326for fermented sausage, 3·244–245for � sh and shell� sh sous vide,

3·102–103for � avor infusion into fats,

2·328–329for � avor-infused liquids, 2·310for � uid gels, 4·177–179for freeze-dried fruits and

vegetables, 3·372for freeze-drying, 2·450–452for froths, airs, and bubbles, 4·264for fruit and vegetable chips,

3·328–329for fruit purees, 2·424–425for fruits sous vide, 3·288, 290–291for hamburgers, 3·234–235for heat-treated fruit, 3·359for hot- and cold-smoked meats and

seafood, 3·210for hot fruit and vegetable gels,

4·164–165for hot gels, 4·160–161for impregnated fruits and

vegetables, 3·390–391for jus, 2·344–345for light foams, 4·270for microwaved vegetables, 3·311for milks and creams, 4·56for modern starch thickeners, 4·30in Modernist Cuisine, 1·97–98for o� al sous vide, 3·146for pasta, 3·380–381for potato purees, 3·296–297for preserved and pickled eggs, 4·82for protein curds, 4·104for pu� ed snacks, 4·302for riso� os, 3·304–305for salting, pickling, and fermenting,

3·348–349for separated egg gels, 4·85for set foams, 4·288–289for smoked eggs and dairy products,

4·100

parametric recipes (continued)for smoked plant foods, 3·362for spheri� cation, 4·186–187for stocks, 2·296–298for tender meats sous vide, 3·96for tender poultry sous vide, 3·99for thick foams, 4·278–279for thickened hot and cold liquids,

4·46–47for tough meats, poultry, and

shell� sh, 3·108–109for traditional starch thickeners,

4·28for transglutaminase gels, 4·116for vegetable purees, 2·424–425for vegetables sous vide, 3·288,

289–290, 292parasitic worms, 1·120–125

� esh contamination and, 1·117� ukes as, 1·120, 123–124foodborne illnesses in U.S. and,

1·111, 113as foodborne pathogens, 1·108roundworms as, 1·120–123tapeworms as, 1·124–125

parathas, about, 5·92Parker, Robert M., Jr.

aroma sensitivity of, 4·348on Ashenfelter’s Bordeaux Equation,

4·328biography of, 4·330wine ratings by, 4·338, 340on wine taste, 4·332

Parkerization, 4·330Parmesan cheese

Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401infusion of, parametric recipe for,

2·310Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 4·88Parmesan Nuggets, 4·35Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o,

4·143Parmesan water, parametric recipe for,

2·374–375Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Warm

Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad, 4·53Parnell, � omas, 4·9parsley

Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3·312Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot

Tops, 5·49, 53Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425

Parsley Foam, 5·229, 231parsnips

natural toxins of, 1·249puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163

particle size reduction, 2·398–427dry grinding and, 2·401–406equations on energy to reduce, 2·401equipment for, 2·398–427pacotizing and, 2·406–411strategies for reducing, 2·400–401wet-grinding and, 2·412–427

particlessize of

mouthfeel and, 4·10reducing. See particle size

reductionfor thickening, 4·7, 12, 19

partridge, as substitute for pigeon, 5·132


I N D E X X C V

PID PPascal seconds, as viscosity measure, 4·6Paskach, � omas, 1·62–63Passard, Alain

L’Arpège egg of, 5·211Onion Gratin recipe, 5·261, 265Scallop Tartare recipe, 3·67Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune

Sabayon recipe, 3·363passion fruit


Passion Fruit Brown Bu� er Fluid Gel, 5·181, 182

Passion Fruit Granita, 5·175, 177Passion Fruit Jelly, 4·180Passion Fruit Marshmallow with

Chorizo Powder, 4·290Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce

Vinaigre� e, 5·181, 183pasta, 3·378–388

Chinese, Italians and, 1·14Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225, 227doughs, best bets for, 3·381example recipes for, 3·382–387,


2·451ingredients and process for, 3·378Mac and Cheese, 3·387milled grains for, 3·376Pad � ai, 3·385parametric recipe for, 3·380–381Pasta Marinara, 3·386Ramen Noodles, 5·247, 250smoking of, 3·361

parametric recipe for, 3·362Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke),

4·117, 5·55, 59Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o,

4·143wheat, pu� ed, parametric recipe for,

4·302Pasta Marinara, 3·386Pasteur, Louis, 1·148, 2·75, 84–85, 250pasteurization

drying with warm air and, 2·432–433

of eggs, 1·191, 4·74FDA Food Code on, 1·185, 187,

188–189for heat-sanitizing food, 1·148–149holding at speci� c temperature for,

2·243of ice cream bases, 1·206refrigerated shelf-life for vacuum-

packed foods a� er, 2·257of sausage, 3·233simpli� ed cooking standards for,

1·190, 191, 192, 194for storage, terminology for,

2·249–250pasteurized eggs, parametric recipe for

cooking, 4·78pastis e� ect, science of, 4·211pastrami, Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3·213pastry chefs, innovations of, 1·73pâte, Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 4·145Pâte à Choux, 5·151, 152Patent and Trademark O� ce, 1·71patent law, food ingredients and

techniques and, 1·70, 71–72Pathogen Modeling Program (PMP),

1·147

pathogens. See also bacteria; foodborne illnesses; viruses

endemic, 1·110microorganisms as, 1·106–109

Pa� erson, Danielon essential oils, 2·322Grapefruit and Black Pepper recipe,

4·276Modernist cuisine and, 1·67poached scrambled eggs by, 4·93

pavéSkate Pavé with Bread Crust, 5·157,

159Sous Vide Duck Con� t Pavé, 5·81,

82Sous Vide Monk� sh Pavé, 5·151, 155

Pavoni, Desiderio, 4·372Pea Vine Salad, 5·273, 275peas. See black-eyed peas; chickpeas;

green peaspeaches




Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 4·273


peanut bu� erPeanut “Tofu,” 4·122Salmonella-contaminated, 1·180, 195

peanut oil, chemistry of, 2·126peanuts

allergies to, 1·238Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3·303

pearscompressing, parametric recipe for,





3·390Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil,


3·348pecans, smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362pecorino cheese, Pecorino with Tru� e

Honey on Cedar, 4·101Pecorino Romano cheese, Poached

Apple with Pecorino Foam, 4·276pectin

drying plant foods with, 3·365as gelling agent, 4·68with heat, for thickening, 4·7hydrogen bonds in water and, 1·296natural sources for, 1·253, 257as vegetable glue, 3·392

pectin methylesterase (PME), 3·280pectinase

juicing fruits with, 2·335juicing plant foods with, 2·336Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324

Pekin duck, roasting, 2·33

Peking Duckskin crisping by loosening from,

3·123traditional cooking of, 3·119, 122

pellicle, formed by smoking, 2·141, 3·211

Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202

penetrating meat tenderizers, hazards with, 1·176

pepperoniFast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247parametric recipe for, 3·244–245

peptides, in freshly slaughtered meat, 3·34

percolation, for co� ee brewing, 4·364perimysium, 3·6peristaltic pumps, extruding gel

noodles with, 4·139Perlage Champagne preservation

system, 4·347Perlini carbonation system, 4·347Persian cucumbers, Nukazuke, 3·354persimmons



Hachiya variety, unripe phase of, 3·262

persistent diarrhea, 1·114personal hygiene

chef ’s accessories for, 1·202–203food safety and, 1·196–200

Peschardt, William Julius Syplie, 1·39pesticides, 1·245, 252–253Petrini, Carl, 1·23pH. See also acidi� ers; acidity of food;

acids or acidic compounds; picklingacidic marinades and, 3·192–193bacterial replication rates and, 1·143,

144boiling-water sterilizing of canned

foods and, 2·81Clostridium botulinum and, 1·139canning method and, 2·76in century eggs, 4·83chemistry of, 3·194color and texture of cooking plant

foods and, 3·274–275of espresso, hard water and, 4·384in fermented sausage, 3·246gel selection and, 4·73juice extraction and, 2·239lowering, for food preservation,

3·344Maillard reaction and, 3·91marinades and, 3·190measuring of, 2·316in muscle a� er slaughter, 3·32,

34–35pressure-canning and, 2·85sodium citrate as sequestrant and,

4·125thickeners and, 4·15, 16truite au bleu and, 3·40

phase changesin emulsions, 4·199, 203, 206thermal energy from, 1·290of water, energy of, 1·300–303

phase diagrams, of water, how to read, 1·302–303

phase inversion, 4·206

pheasant, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·99

Phelan, Robert, 4·246phenolic acids, olive oil and, 1·232, 234phenols, smoked food and, 2·134, 3·211pheophytin pigments, in green

vegetables, 2·267Philosophers at Dinner (Athenaeus), 1·12pho broth

Oxtail Pho Broth, 2·307parametric recipe for, 2·304–305

Phocanema decipens, 1·122–123phosphate brine, basic, parametric

recipe for, 3·168phosphates

for accelerating brining, 3·158for brining or curing, 3·157

phospholipids, as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·216–217

photographscredit for, 1·101of cutaways, 1·88–89. See also

cutaway illustrationsequipment for, 1·89Myhrvold on use of, 1·84–85

Phylloxera, 4·327Physiologie du Goût (Brillat-Savarin,

1825), 1·9Pic, Jacques, 1·34pickle chips, parametric recipe for,

3·328pickled eggs, parametric recipe for, 4·82pickles


fermented, parametric recipe for, 3·349

Fried Pickles, 5·67, 75Green Papaya Pickle, 5·97parametric recipe for, 3·349Pickled Bing Cherry, 5·267, 268Pickled Bu� ernut Squash, 5·60, 64Pickled Celery Root, 5·126, 133Pickled Figs, 5·135, 137Pickled Garlic, 5·25, 26Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125,

131Pickled Lemon, 5·273, 275Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83Pickled Ramps, 5·113, 118Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 5·205, 207salt, parametric recipe for, 3·349sour vinegar, parametric recipe for,

3·349Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353sweet vinegar, parametric recipe for,

3·349pickling

boiling-water canning for, 2·82–83of eggs, best bets for, 4·82example recipes for, 3·353, 5·25, 135formulas for, 3·349parametric recipe for, 3·348–349of plant foods, 3·344, 346, 348

PID (proportional-integral-derivative) controllers

characteristics of, 1·270God shots and, 4·375invention of, 4·398for kitchen appliances, 1·271programmable, 2·238for smoking, 3·208


X C V I I N D E X

PIDPPID (proportional-integral-derivative)

controllers (continued)for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 240types and characteristics of,

2·230–231Piège, Jean-François

Spaghe� i Carbonara recipe, 3·384Steamed Blancmange recipe, 4·296

pig, sucklingcooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·96, 109Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot

and Orange Sauce, 3·110pig-bel, C. per� ingens-contaminated

food and, 1·141pigeon


Farce Royale, 5·126, 132Pigeon en Salmis plated-dish recipe,

5·125–133Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100Roast Pigeon Crown, 5·126, 132Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133

pigeon o� al, Sous Vide Pigeon O� al, 5·125, 130

pigeon stock, parametric recipe for, 2·296–298

pig’s blood, Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4·221

pilaf, Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 5·94

pin bones, in � sh, 3·22pin-and-disc mills, 2·404pine bud infusion, parametric recipe for,

2·310pine nuts

Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 5·60, 65

Frozen Crème-Frâiche and Pine-Nut Cream, 2·411

Romesco Sauce, 2·419Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362

pineapplecompressing, parametric recipe for,




3·390Pineapple Glass, 3·370preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362

pineapple chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328

pinecones, green, Adrià’s use of immature pine nuts from, 1·36

pink brine, basic, parametric recipe for, 3·168

Pink Grapefruit Con� t, 5·225, 226pink salt rub, parametric recipe for,

3·169pink salts, nitrates or nitrites in, 3·165Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and, 4·327piquillo peppers, 5·279


Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry Salad, 5·277, 278

Pistachio Consommé, 2·376pistachio cream for gelato, 4·214Pistachio Gelato, 4·236pistachio oil, Pistachio Gelato, 4·236Pistachio Puree, 2·427pistachios

Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, 4·294

Pistachio Consommé, 2·376Pistachio Gelato, 4·236Pistachio Puree, 2·427Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto

Salad, 4·53pit, barbecue, origins of, 3·208pit boss, use of term, 3·208pita bread, water as foaming gas for,

4·254pitch, extreme viscosity of, 4·9pitchers, spouted, for pouring la� es,

4·391–392plancha. See also griddles; panfrying

for Modernist kitchen, 2·287searing using, 2·40–41

of frozen meat, 3·122for sous vide cooking, 2·271

plant foods, 3·258–401cooking

bene� ts of, 3·267color changes in, chemistry of,

3·274–275frying and, 3·314–343methods for, 3·273microwaving and, 3·310–313pressure-cooking and, 3·298–309sous vide, 3·286–297

culinary deception with, 3·388–401dehydrating, 3·365–373enzymes in, 3·282–284fat content of, 5·XLIIIFDA Food Code time and

temperature for, 1·184freeze-drying, critical temperature

for, 2·446fruits as. See fruits; speci� c � uitsLe Gargouillou with, 1·20, 3·294–295heat-shocking, 3·358–359internationalization of, history of,

3·268juices from

browning of, 2·338� ltering, 2·354

juicing with pectinase enzymes, 2·336

milling, 3·376–377nuts as. See nutspreserving, 3·344–373properties of, 3·262–285raw

digesting, biology of, 3·269FDA rules and, 1·182

seeds as. See seedssmoked, 2·141

best bets for, 3·362smoking, 3·361–363so� ening by holding at speci� c

temperature, 2·247–248starches in, 3·280–283textures of, modifying, 3·374–401types of, 3·264vacuum compression and, 2·213vegetables as. See vegetables; speci� c

vegetableswater content of, 3·273

plants, 3·266. See also speci� c plantscomposition of, physics of, 3·266defenses of, defeating, 3·267, 273as food. See plant foods; speci� c plant

foodsgelling agents from, 4·126hydrocolloids from, as thickeners,

4·19seeds of. See seeds

self-defense by, toxicity of, 3·266 plasma, as charged gas, 1·301

plasmids, 1·109, 133Plasmodium, 1·126plasmolysis, cell dehydration and, 1·305Plassman, Hilke, 4·340plastic packaging

for edge sealers, 2·222for impulse sealers, 2·225molding sausage with, 3·241selection of, 2·210–211sous vide cooking and, 2·207

plastic wrapmolding sausage with, 3·241vacuum packing and, 2·212

plate freezers, uses for, 1·307Plateau, Joseph, 4·246plated dishes

Blumenthal on, 1·51elements of recipes for, 1·99invention of, 1·25Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·26recipes in Modernist Cuisine for,

1·97–100styles of, 1·98

styles of recipes for, 1·100plated-dish recipes for eggs, 5·209–221

� e Breakfast Egg, 5·211–213Mushroom Omelet, 5·215–217Oeufs en Meure� e, 5·219–221

plated-dish recipes for � sh, 5·141–177Black Cod “Frédy Girardet,”

5·170–173Fish and Chips, 5·143–145Hamachi Maltaise, 5·147–149Hawaiian Poke, 5·175–177Malaysian Steamed Snapper,

5·167–169Monk� sh with Mediterranean

Flavors, 5·151–155Salmon Rus, 5·161–165Skate in Black Bu� er, 5·157–159

plated-dish recipes for fruits and vegetables, 5·259–287

Crispy Cauli� ower, 5·281–283Lentil Salad, 5·267–271Onion Tart, 5·261–265Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277–279Sweet Pea Fricassee, 5·272–275Watermelon Bulgogi, 5·285–287

plated-dish recipes for poultry, 5·107–139

Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken, 5·113–119

Duck Apicius, 5·121–123Foie Gras à la Vapeur, 5·109–111Guinea Hen Tagine, 5·135–139Pigeon en Salmis, 5·125–133

plated-dish recipes for shell� sh, 5·179–207

Lobster Américaine, 5·184–187Oyster Stew, 5·205–207Pulpo a la Greca, 5·193–195Shell� sh Omakase, 5·197–203

plated-dish recipes for shell� sh (continued)

Shrimp Cocktail, 5·180–183� ai Crab Miang, 5·189–191

plated-dish recipes for starches, 5·223–256

Astronaut Ramen, 5·247–251Cocoa Tajarin, 5·225–227Paella Valenciana, 5·239–245Russian Pelmeni, 5·233–237Shanghai Soup Dumplings,

5·253–256Spaghe� i alle Vongole, 5·229–231

plated-dish recipes for tender cuts, 5·3–39

Autumn Harvest Pork Roast, 5·17–23Beef Rib Steak, 5·5–9Blanque� e de Veau, 5·31–33Choucroute Royale, 5·35–39Mushroom Swiss Burger, 5·11–15Rack of Lamb with Garlic, 5·25–29

plated-dish recipes for tough cuts, 5·41–105

American BBQ , 5·66–79Braised Short Ribs, 5·42–47Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn),

5·81–84Cassoulet Toulousain (Spring),

5·85–87Historic Lamb Curries, 5·89–99Hungarian Beef Goulash, 5·55–59Osso Bucco Milanese, 5·60–65Pot-au-Feu, 5·49–53Sunday Pork Belly, 5·101–105

platinum RTD (resistance temperature diode), 1·207

Pliny the Elder, 2·396plums




in Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202

pluotsabout, 5·202Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga,

Scallop Mochi, 5·197, 202PME (pectin methylesterase), 3·280PMP (Pathogen Modeling Program),

1·147poach test

of sausage binding power, 3·223technique of, 3·225

Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 4·276

“Poached” Egg, 4·195Poached Lamb Loin, 5·85, 87Poached Lobster, 4·219Poached Lobster Tail, 5·185, 187Poached Oysters, 5·233, 236poaching

cryopoaching asCryopoached Dill Meringue, 5·161,

165Cryopoached Green Tea Sour,

4·291for Dippin’ Dots, 1·61technique for, 2·460

of eggs, stirring pot before, physics of, 2·67


I N D E X X C V I I

PPOUR-OVER COFFEE BREWER

poaching (continued)Girardet method for broiling and,

2·24–25, 96, 97pod systems, for espresso, technology

of, 4·400Poggioli, Renato, 1·18Point, Fernand

on glazing vegetables, 2·58Nouvelle cuisine and, 1·24Poulet au Feu d’Enfer recipe, 3·100

polar solvents, 1·330polarity, of water molecules, 2·182,

4·199Polcyn, Brian, Blackstrap Molasses

Country Ham recipe, 3·183polenta

Almond Polenta, 4·36Parmesan “Polenta,” 4·181Pressure-Cooked Polenta with

Strawberry Marinara, 4·50political interest groups, food safety

rules and, 1·170“� e (Political) Science of Salt”

(Taubes), 1·236Pollan, Michael

on eating our great-grandmothers’ food, 1·15

on Slow Food, 1·23Polo, Marco, pasta and, 1·14Polyclar � ning, 2·352, 360polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons,

smoked food and, 2·143polyethylene, for rescuing corked wine,

4·349polyglycerol esters, as surfactant

emulsi� ers, 4·216–217polymer molecules, for gelling or

thickening, 4·71Polyp Prevention Trial, 1·215, 217, 233polyphenol oxidase (PPO)

blanching and, 2·267fruit blemishes and, 3·282–283plant juice browning and, 2·338

polyphosphates. See sodium tripolyphosphate

polysaccharideshydrocolloids as, 4·124starches as, 4·20

polysorbates, as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·216–217

polyunsaturated fat, 1·222polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastics, food

safety and, 2·207, 3·241polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP), as

� ning agent, 2·360pomegranate

juicing seeds of, 5·122Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 5·121,

122pomelo, Frozen Pomelo Cells, 5·189,

191Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323pommes sou� ées

Pommes Sou� ées, 4·306, 5·143, 145

water as foaming gas for, 4·254ponzu, Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313popcorn

Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104microwave, 2·183Popcorn Pudding, 4·181

Popeil, Ron, 2·34

porcini mushroomscooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard

Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97pork. See also bacon; ham; hogs;

prosciu� o; suckling pigaging, 3·41Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210cooked, pink color in, 3·94cooking

cooking times for, 1·121, 179, 180sous vide, parametric recipe for,

3·96, 109Crab and Pork Stock Spheres, 5·253,

256cultural recommendations on

cooking, 1·165, 170–171curing, parametric recipe for, 3·172Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle

in, 3·12, 13FDA safe cooking standards for,

1·170food safety misconceptions about,

1·179–180free-range, safety debate on, 1·179Freeze-Dried Pork, 5·247, 251freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

2·451Green Garlic and Pork Sausage,

5·85, 86hot-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210House-Cured Bacon, 3·182, 5·17, 18Italian Sausage, 3·242Pork Loin Roast, 5·17, 23Pork Ribs, 5·67, 78Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 5·35,

36Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114primal cuts of, 3·44Pulled Pork Shoulder, 5·67, 78rea� aching skin as breading a� er

cooking, 3·122–123red meat in, 3·14, 15roast, how to pu� skin on,

3·126–127safe cooking temperature for,

1·121–122Saucisson Sec, 3·247as sausage binder, 3·222for sausage-making, cuts for, 3·222shoulder, dissecting, 3·48–49skin contraction during cooking of,

3·118Smoked Pork Cheek, 5·35, 38Sous Vide Pork Belly, 5·101, 102tapeworms and, 1·124tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82Trichinella and, 1·117–118, 120Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork

Stock Infusion, 5·253, 254pork and Banyuls roasting jus,

parametric recipe for, 2·344–345pork belly, sous vide tenderizing of,

3·83

pork fatbackCoarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3·247Italian Sausage, 3·242Saucisson Sec, 3·247

pork lard, chemistry of, 2·126pork rinds, pu� ed, making of, 3·129pork stock, parametric recipe for,

2·296–297Pork Tro� er Beignet, 5·35, 38porta� lters, espresso

crotchlessadvantages of, 4·385, 388invention of, 4·398

dosing, 4·378, 380grooming. See grooming espresso

porta� lterstamping, 4·380, 383–384

how to, 4·382porta� lters, nanoscale, 2·357portions. See also food size

single, Pacojets for, 2·407, 410vacuum-sealed individual, 2·199, 201

Portuguese Cork Association, 4·348posset, parametric recipe for, 4·104Le Postay, 1·70Postmodern cuisine, Modernist cuisine

vs., 1·57potassium

hypertension and, 1·236as ion-based coagulant, 4·126

potassium nitratefor dry-curing, 3·165for food preservation, 1·144–145in sel rose (curing salt), 3·162

potato chipshomemade, 3·329–330parametric recipe for, 3·328Pringles, history of, 3·330

potato starch, thickening with, parametric recipe for, 4·28

potatoesArtichoke and Potato Chaat, 3·313Baked Potato Broth, 2·309Baked Potato Foam, 4·281, 5·193boiled, sugar and, 3·276Clay Potatoes, 3·398cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·290, 292Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes

Sarladaises, 3·178� our milled from, 3·376� oury vs. waxy, gelatinization of,

3·280frying, 3·322–325mashed

of Robuchon, 1·37, 58of Steingarten, 1·65

natural toxins of, 1·249Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3·324Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3·323Pommes Sou� ées, 4·306, 5·143, 145Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4·174Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8Potato Salad, 5·67, 73pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302purees of

best bets for, 3·297parametric recipe for, 2·425,

3·296–297Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8

Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309

potatoes (continued)Smoked Potato Con� t, 5·193, 195Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune

Sabayon, 3·363smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362starch granules of, 4·20Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries,

3·325thickening with, 4·28toxins in, 3·262Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11volumetric equivalents for amounts

of, 5·XLVWarm Potato and Pistachio Pesto

Salad, 4·53pot-au-feu

parametric recipe for, 2·304–305Pot au Feu Consommé, 5·49, 52Pot-au-Feu plated-dish recipe,

5·49–53pot-roasting, 2·93–96

braising or stewing vs., 2·93chemistry of aging and, 2·98cutaway illustration of, 2·94–95of meat, how to, 2·99traditional method for, 2·93, 96

pots, on stoveheat loss and, 1·276immersion circulators for, 2·234for sous vide cooking, 2·233, 240

Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 3·100poultry. See also speci� c types of poultry

cookingideal temperature for, 3·89simpli� ed standards for, 1·190,

193diet and � esh color of, 3·93FDA Food Code on Salmonella in,

1·175FDA Food Code time and

temperature for, 1·187–188FSIS on Salmonella reduction in,

1·168plated-dish recipes for, 5·107–139red

cooking sous vide, best bets for, 3·99

tender, parametric recipe for cooking sous vide, 3·99

safe cooking principles for, 1·191tanning properties of smoke and,

2·141tender red, parametric recipe for

cooking sous vide, 3·99tender white, parametric recipe for

cooking sous vide, 3·99tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78tough, cooking sous vide


whitecooking sous vide, best bets for,

3·99tender, parametric recipe for

cooking sous vide, 3·99poultry liver, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·146pounding meat, 3·50pour-over co� ee brewer, 4·369


X C V I I I I N D E X

POWDERSPpowders

cryogenic freezing of, 2·461cryopowdering and, how to, 2·461espresso, instant, 4·371pacotizing, 2·406–409spray-dried, 2·438–441

powerconverting energy units and, 1·273units of, 1·272–273

PPO (polyphenol oxidase)blanching and, 2·267fruit blemishes and, 3·282–283plant juice browning and, 2·338

Prague Powdersnitrates or nitrites in, 3·165No. 1

for brining or curing, 3·158composition of, 3·161

No. 2, composition of, 3·161Pralus, Georges, 1·41, 42Prats, Bruno, 4·328prawn crackers, water as foaming gas

for, 4·254prawns. See also langoustines


for, 3·103Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100Pu� ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190in Seafood Paper, 3·188Shrimp and Grits, 3·377Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347Spot Prawn and Lotus Root

Tempura with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, 201

Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 4·233

Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 5·181, 183precipitates, supersaturated solutions

and, 1·332precooking, sous vide, for deep-frying,

2·123precursor molecules, in � avor reactions,

enzymes and, 2·335, 338predator satiation (saturation), 3·284pregelatinized starch cracker, pu� ed,

parametric recipe for, 4·302pregelatinized starch paste

Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29for thick foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·278–279pregnancy, foodborne illnesses and,

1·127, 134preheating

for baking, 2·102–103for deep-frying, 2·116

preinfusion, in pulling an espresso shot, 4·384

prepared foods, wide availability of, 1·22–23

presentation, cognitive science of, 4·335preservatives. See also additives; food

preservationchemical, bacterial growth and,

1·144–145fresh juice taste and color and, 2·238,

239popular perception of, 1·250

Preserved Cinnamon Cap Mushroom, 5·219, 220

preserved eggs, parametric recipe for, 4·82

Preserved Lemons, 3·350, 5·135Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, 5·281,

283preserves, seasonal mélanges with,

3·295preserving food. See food preservationpressing, example recipes for, 3·377pressure. See also pressure canners;

pressure cookers; pressure � ltration; pressure-canning; pressure-cooking plant foods

atmospheric. See atmospheric pressure

espresso-making and, 4·372, 374� neness of grind vs., in espresso

machines, 4·378gauges and, atmospheric pressure

and readings of, 2·86–87homogenizers and. See

homogenizers, high-pressure; homogenizers, ultrahigh-pressure

pressure fryers and, for Kentucky Fried Chicken, 2·120–121

pressure steamers and, heat transfer in, 1·319

pressure-marinating and, 3·198how to, 3·207

pressure-shi� freezing and, physics of, 1·309

pro� ling, for espresso, 4·375technology of, 4·400

solubility of gases in water and, 1·333, 4·256

speci� c heat and, 1·266–267ultrahigh, to kill bacteria, 1·149vacuum, 2·391, 447vacuum packing and, 2·213, 215water, in espresso-making, 4·384

pressure canners. See also pressure cookers

cutaway illustration of, 2·90–91for extracting and infusing � avors,

2·251how to use, 2·89pressure cookers vs., 2·85–86for sous vide cooking, 2·233sterilization using, 2·250venting, 2·86–87, 291–292

pressure cookersbrowning starch for roux with, 4·22collagen conversion into gelatin in,

3·79excess heat in, 2·291for Modernist kitchen, 2·286pressure canners vs., 2·85–86, 89for sous vide cooking, 2·233sterilization using, 2·250stock preparation with, 2·283,

291–294for tomato sauces, 3·276for tough cut cooking, 3·95venting

before sealing, 2·291–292 spring-loaded valves for, 2·86–87

pressure � ltrationcharacteristics of, 2·352, 353–355,

358clarifying juice with, 2·355equipment for, 2·286

pressure fryers, for Kentucky Fried Chicken, 2·120–121

pressure gauges, atmospheric pressure and readings of, 2·86–87

pressure steamers, heat transfer in, 1·319

pressure-canning, 2·85–91acidity of food and, 2·76Chevalier-Appert on, 2·75cutaway illustration of, 2·90–91� ne tuning, 2·88how air confounds, physics of, 2·87for low-acidity foods, 2·85pressure amount and duration for,

2·88reading gauge displays for, 2·86–87time to sterilization pressure using,

2·89Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3·114Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4·97Pressure-Cooked Polenta with

Strawberry Marinara, 4·50Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, 3·303,

5·181Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 5·81,

83Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso� o,

3·308Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock,

2·301pressure-cooking plant foods,

3·298–309best bets for, 3·300

pressure-marinating, 3·198how to, 3·207

pressure-shi� freezing, physics of, 1·309

pretenderized meat, hazards with, 1·176Prial, Frank, 4·331Priestley, Joseph, 2·464primal cuts, of meat, 3·44primary emulsion, 4·206Primitivo grape, Zinfandel and, 4·326Pringles, history of, 3·330“printed food,” 1·67, 69, 71prions

diseases caused by, 1·156, 157–159, 160brain and, 1·156–157conformations of, 1·158politics and, 1·160–161in United States, 1·111

as foodborne pathogens, 1·109names for, 1·112

processed foodscheese as, history of, 4·222preservatives in, 1·144

professional chefs. See chefs, professional; individual chefs’ names

programmabilityin combi ovens, 2·168–169, 172–173of heating/chilling baths, 2·255of PID controllers, 2·230, 238

progressive smoking, 2·148propane, for gas grills, 2·11proportional-integral-derivative

controllers. See PID (proportional-integral-derivative) controllers

propylene glycol alginatefor edible � lms, parametric recipe

for, 4·60as foam stabilizer, 4·257interactions with other thickeners,


propylene glycol esters, as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·216–217

propylene glycol, thickening with, parametric recipe for, 4·46, 47

prosciu� oChawanmushi, 4·96Ham Broth, 2·306infusion of, parametric recipe for,

2·310Prosciu� o and Melon “Raw Egg,”

4·194slicing, 3·50

prospective randomized, controlled clinical trials. See randomized clinical trials

prospective studiesde� nition of, 1·214of nutrition, 1·220

protein coagulants, 4·103protein extracts, as sausage binders,

3·223proteins. See also dairy products; fa� y

acids; meats; speci� c foodsconformation of, 1·156curds of

best bets for, 4·104Cocoa Nib Curd, 4·105Fresh Cheese Curds, 4·106–107parametric recipe for, 4·104

dehydrating foods and, 1·296in � sh, 3·20as foaming agent, 4·244, 247folding of, 1·156frozen, aromatic compounds and,

2·261in gelatin, 4·67gelling agents from, 4·69with heat, for thickening, 4·7marinating and, 3·190in meat, 3·6nonmeat, fat incorporation into

sausage with, 3·225proteolytic enzymes, 3·195protists, 1·126–129

foodborne illnesses in U.S. and, 1·111

as foodborne pathogens, 1·108Prudhomme, Paul, New American

cuisine and, 1·28, 29prune coals

carbon dioxide in sugar glass for, 4·254

edible, how to make, 4·314–315Prune Coals recipe, 5·17

Prusiner, Stanley, 1·156PSE (pale so� exudate), adrenaline and,

3·34Pseudoterranova decipiens, 1·122–123psychrometric charts, how to read,

1·323PTW (Australian architectural � rm),

4·246public health, food safety rules and,

1·169–170publication bias, nutritional studies

and, 1·219Puck, Wolfgang

food and restaurant empire of, 1·31New American cuisine and, 1·28, 29New International cuisine and, 1·30


I N D E X X C I X

RARE BEEF SAUSAGE Rpudding. See also blood sausage

(pudding)Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 5·125,

127Crispy Corn Pudding, 5·101, 104Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31Popcorn Pudding, 4·181

Pu� ed Chicken Feet, 3·133Pu� ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138Pu� ed Chickpeas, 4·307Pu� ed Cockscomb, 3·133Pu� ed Crab Crackers, 5·189, 190pu� ed skin

pork rinds and, making of, 3·129on pork roast, how to make,

3·126–127vicinal water and, 3·122, 123

pu� ed snacks, 4·302–309best bets for, 4·302Cheese Pu� s, 4·305example recipes for, 4·303–309,

5·197, 202parametric recipe for, 4·302Pu� ed Chickpeas, 4·307

pulao, Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 5·94

Pulled Mushroom, 3·396Pulled Pork Shoulder, 5·67, 78pulp, plant juice browning and, 2·338pulped natural process, for co� ee, 4·358Pulpo a la Greca plated-dish recipe,

5·193–195pulses, � ours milled from, 3·376pulverizing. See also grinding; milling

mathematics of power to pulverize and, 2·401

Pumpjack Winery, 4·345 pumps

aquariumfoam forming with, 4·258, 260for sous vide cooking, 2·240–241

vacuum. See vacuum pumpsPure-Cote B790

for edible � lms, parametric recipe for, 4·60

thickening with, 4·30parametric recipe for, 4·30

pureeingcolloid mills for, 2·398–399of colloidal suspensions from, 4·12meat, steps in, 3·231Pacojet for, 2·406–411strategies for, 2·400

purees. See also pureeingApricot and Jasmine Puree, 5·171,

173Avocado Puree, 5·205, 207Black Olive Puree, 4·230Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree,

2·426Con� t Egg-Yolk Puree, 5·147, 148cooking fruits or vegetables sous

vide for, 3·290cryofreezing and, 2·458Date Puree, 5·121, 122frozen, freeze-drying of, 2·446fruit

best bets for, 2·425cooking sous vide, 3·290 parametric recipe for, 2·425

ground fruits or vegetables as, 3·376Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and

Tru� e Puree, 4·114

purees (continued)Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Pistachio Puree, 2·427potato, best bets for, 3·297Potato Puree, 3·296, 5·5, 8Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20seasonal mélanges with, 3·295Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57Tamarind Puree, 5·281, 282vegetable

best bets for, 2·425mechanics of, 3·279parametric recipe for, 2·424–425,

435sous vide cooking for, best bets for,

3·290puri� cation, of toxins from the body,

1·248PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastics, food

safety and, 2·207, 3·241PVPP (polyvinylpolypyrrolidone), as

� ning agent, 2·360pyrolysis

co� ee roasting and, 4·362food safety and bi� er taste from,

3·91overcooking and, 3·94of wood, 2·135, 137

Qquail


Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts, 3·101

quail eggsChorizo French Toast, 4·98–99Pickled Quail Eggs, 4·83

Quatre Épices, 2·403, 5·35, 125quiche � lling, parametric recipe for,

4·92quinces


Hot Quince Gel, 4·167, 5·121raw vs. cooked, 3·275

quinoaQuinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito

Stock Veil, 4·168Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129

quorum sensing, by bacteria, 1·134

Rrabbit


leg muscles of, 3·7Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 5·239, 242wild, risks of eating, 1·138

Rack of Lamb, 5·25, 29Rack of Lamb with Garlic plated-dish

recipe, 5·25–29radiation (radiant heat)

adding cream to co� ee and, 1·289charcoal grills and, 2·10–11convection baking using, 2·110–111cooking food unevenly with, 3·314dark-surfaced pans and, 2·38fourth-power relationship to

temperature of, 1·287heat transfer with, 1·277, 284–286hot spots in baking and, 2·112microwave ovens and, 2·182physics of shiny griddles and, 1·284roasting and, 2·28, 32–33sweet spot of grills and, 2·14–17

radiation, ultraviolet. See ultraviolet radiation

radishesNukazuke, 3·354preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129raisins, Carbonated Golden Raisins,

5·157, 159Ramen Noodles, 5·247, 250Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455, 5·247Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247ramps

Pickled Ramps, 5·113, 118Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112

Ramsay, GordonModernist cuisine and, 1·63Nouvelle cuisine and individuality

of, 1·28rancidity

of freeze-dried meat, 2·447of frozen food, 1·306of reused deep-frying oil, 2·125of saturated vs. unsaturated oils,

2·126randomized clinical trials, 1·218

of cholesterol-lowering drug and heart disease, 1·227

of dietary fat and cancer, 1·233of dietary fat and heart disease,

1·229, 230–231of dietary � ber and colorectal cancer,

1·217of nutrition, 1·220of omega-3 fats and heart disease,

1·232of salt and hypertension, 1·234of vitamin supplements, 1·235of weight loss plans, 1·240, 241

randomized intervention trials, 1·214Rankine temperature scale, 1·266Rao, Hayagreeva, 1·26rapeseed oil, chemistry of, 2·126rare beef jus, parametric recipe for,

2·344–345Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249


C I N D E X

RARE FLATIRON STEAKRRare Flatiron Steak, 5·49, 50rare salmon jus, parametric recipe for,

2·344–345Ras el Hanout, 2·405raspberries



in Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·278ratings, for wines, 4·338–339Ratio: � e Simple Codes Behind the Cra�

of Everyday Cooking (Ruhlman), 1·95Rational combi ovens

comparing cooking modes for, 2·169cooking strategies for, 2·170e� ective cooking temperatures in,

2·165heat and humidity control in,

2·163–165, 167invention of, 2·154program cooking with, 2·169testing heat and humidity control in,

2·156–157Rautureau, � ierry, Spot Prawns with

Foie Gras Nage recipe, 4·233raw foods. See also speci� c foods

diet of, 1·247–249FDA Food Code on, 1·182, 184� avors of, 3·87food safety disclaimer rules for, 1·178foodborne illness risks with, 1·191freezing

FDA on time and temperature for, 1·186

water types and, 1·305–306hygiene and, 1·196plants as, biology of digesting, 3·269tartares and meat as, 3·62–69

example recipes for, 3·65–68water in, weight of, 3·79, 83

raw milk cheeseFDA safe cooking standards for,

1·170French vs. U.S. standards on, 1·171,

173Raw Okra, 5·90, 97raw packing, boiling-water canning and,

2·77Rayleigh sca� ering, 2·124, 4·203razor clams


noroviruses and, 1·155Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 5·197, 199Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3·112

ready-to-eat food. See also sous videmarketing of, 2·265

recall bias, nutritional studies and, 1·218recipes

format for, 1·93, 96in Modernist Cuisine, 1·92–101

credit for, 1·100–101types of, 1·97–100. See also example

recipe entries; parametric recipe entries

scaling, baker’s percentage for, 1·95–97

red cabbageRed Coleslaw, 5·67, 72Red Wine Cabbage, 5·101, 105in Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35

red cabbage (continued)Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and

Cabbage Juice, 2·389red currants, as acidi� er, 2·314Red Dye # 2, 1·252red � esh, in tuna, 3·21red hot, 1·287red kidney beans, natural toxins of,

1·249red meat. See also speci� c meats

animals producing, 3·14–15breast cancer and, 1·221combi ovens vs. water bath cooking

of, 2·167–168in ducks vs. chickens, 3·16–17poultry, sous vide cooking, best bets

for, 3·99tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78in tuna, biology of, 3·21

red pearl onions, Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, 5·55, 58, 67

red wineConstructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219,

221Red Wine Cabbage, 5·101, 105

Red-Eye Gravy, 5·101, 102Red-Onion Cream, 3·68reductions

for concentrating � avor, 2·379–380emulsi� ed bu� erfat in cream and,

4·205extracting � avors using stocks vs.,

2·288� avor release by, 4·11modern, for thickening, 4·19scaling using baker’s percentages

and, 1·96for thickening, 4·5, 7thickening by, various methods of,

4·11thickening sauces, jus, or glazes

with, 2·346vacuum. See vacuum reduction

Redzepi, RenéEdible Earth recipe, 4·37at elBulli, 1·39on Le Gargouillou, 3·294Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and

Tru� e Puree recipe, 4·114Modernist cuisine and, 1·70

re� ectivitybroilers and, 2·19, 22grills and, 2·15radiant heat and, 1·284–285

refraction, index of, 4·203refrigeration. See also chilling

of cold-smoked food, 2·143food preservation and, 2·252proper, importance of, 2·257sel rose as curing salt and, 3·162sous vide cooking and storage using,

2·206–207, 208of un� nished bo� les of wine, 4·346

refrigeratorsfor cook-chill sous vide, 2·255temperature control in, 1·205–207thawing using, 2·263

regional American cooking, 1·28regulations, U.S., on food safety,

1·165. See also U.S. Food and Drug Administration

reheatingof mass-market ready-to-eat foods,

2·265modern thickeners and, 4·5in sous vide cooking, 2·242, 262, 264thickener selection and, 4·15

rehydrationof freeze-dried foods, 2·447physics of dehydration and, 1·321

relative humidityboiling point of water and, 2·163drying foods and, 2·428equilibrium, 2·430measuring, 1·322on psychrometric charts, how to

read, 1·323water vapor and, 1·320–321, 325,

2·154relative risk, nutritional studies and,

1·219Rémoulade Sauce, 5·67, 75Renaud, Serge, 1·228rendering

bromelain for, 3·195cryorendering and

of subcutaneous fat, 3·122before vacuum packing, 2·268

of fat from meat tissue, 3·83methods for, 3·122strategies for, 3·145

rennet, as gel coagulant, 4·70reserve bo� ling of wine, taste of

ordinary wine bo� ling vs., 4·340reservoir chillers (water baths), 2·238restaurants. See also Modernist cuisine;

speci� c restaurantsfood safety disclaimer rules for, 1·178

Restaurant Apriori, 1·70Restaurant Hanner, 1·70Restaurante Calima, 1·57resting

a� er brining, 3·156chilling and, 2·254myth of, baking and, 2·105panfrying and, 2·38reheated food, 2·264

restrooms, personal hygiene and, 1·196Restructured Emmental Slices, 5·11, 14restructured meat

meat glue and, 3·250–256sausage as. See sausages

Restructured Potato Chips, 3·330resveratrol, heart disease and, 1·228retort bags, plastic/� exible

for canning, 2·77heat transfer in, 1·319 heating requirements and duration

for, 2·79reverse osmosis (RO)

concentrating � avor with, 2·379, 396food industry uses for, 1·335by kidneys, 3·141for purifying water, 1·335water for espresso-making and, 4·384wine and, 4·330

reverse spheri� cation, 4·184, 187, 5·254revolution

cuisine and, 1·18–20cultural change and, 1·16–18at low end of cooking and eating,

1·20–22Nouvelle cuisine, 1·24, 26–31

La Reynière (aka Robert Courtine), 1·26

Reyns, 4·6rhubarb

as acidi� er, 2·314compressing, parametric recipe for,


for, 3·290impregnating, parametric recipe for,

3·390natural toxins of, 1·249preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279

rhubarb water, parametric recipe for, 2·374–375

Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini, 3·97

ribose, 3·89rice

Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4·304Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao,

5·94Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177Crispy Dosa, 3·355Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice

and Sea Le� uce, 3·149Paella Rice, 5·239, 241Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Riso� o,

3·308pu� ed, parametric recipe for, 4·302Ragout of Grains, 5·125, 129Riso� o Milanese, 3·306–307smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362Steamed Sticky Rice, 5·113, 119thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·28Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59

rice bran, Nukazuke, 3·354rice cookers, for sous vide cooking, 2·240rice crisp

parametric recipe for, 4·302Rice Crisp, 5·31, 32

rice � our, 3·376rice � our pasta and, parametric

recipe for, 3·381rice starch, 4·20, 28rice stick noodles, Pad � ai, 3·385rice vinegar, Soy Vinegar Infusion,

5·253, 256Rich Brown Stock, 2·297Richot, Charles, 1·238rico� a cheese

Crispy Goat’s Milk Rico� a Dumpling, 5·273, 274

Goat Milk Rico� a, 4·108parametric recipe for, 4·104Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49

Rienzner, Cristiano, 1·70rigid containers, vacuum packing using,

2·226–227rigor mortis, in muscle a� er slaughter,

3·32, 34rille� es

Beef Shank Rille� e, 5·49, 52Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille� es,

5·233, 235rinsing, a� er brining, 3·156, 158ripening

on command, how to, 3·285of cured meat or seafood, 3·167, 173of fruit, 3·283–284sous vide technique of, 2·250synchronized, chemistry of, 3·284


I N D E X C I

SOUS VIDE SALMON SRipert, Eric

Escolar with Red Wine Bu� er recipe, 3·104

Fluke Ceviche recipe, 3·203New International cuisine and, 1·30pot-au-feu of, 5·49

riso� obest bets for, 3·305example recipes for, 3·306–309parametric recipe for, 3·304–305Riso� o Milanese, 3·306–307starch release during cooking of,

3·282ristre� os

blonding phase and, 4·388brewing, skill of choosing

temperature for, 4·385evolution of, 4·379

Ri� inger’s law, 2·401Ritz, César, 1·20� e River Café, New American cuisine

and, 1·28, 29RNA, in viruses, 1·152RO. See reverse osmosisroast. See also roasting; speci� c foods

derivation of term, 2·101FDA Food Code on cooking, 1·174sous vide vs. combi oven cooking of,

2·167–168Roast Pigeon Crown, 5·126, 132Roasted Candlenuts, 5·175, 177roasted hazelnut oil extract, parametric

recipe for, 2·326Roasted Scallion Marmalade, 5·253,

255roasted-hazelnut oil, Hazelnut “Cream,”

4·236roasting, 2·28–35

of beer can chicken, science of, 2·109calculations for, 2·28, 32cutaway illustration of, 2·104–105extended and simpli� ed 6D


historical uses of, 1·16of meat

jus formation and, 2·343whole, FDA Food Code on oven

temperatures for, 1·186whole, FDA Food Code on time

and temperature for, 1·182–183, 184

pot-roasting as. See pot-roastingprogram cooking in combi oven for,

2·169Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven

for, 2·34–35spit-roasting as, 2·32–33turning or not turning in, 2·32–33of whole hog, 2·30–31

Robuchon, Joëlon Adrià as chef, 1·39mashed potatoes of, 1·37, 58New International cuisine and, 1·30Nouvelle cuisine and individuality

of, 1·27Potato Puree recipe, 3·296, 297restaurants of, 1·31Shell� sh Custard recipe, 4·162sous vide cooking and, 1·41, 42, 43,

2·195Robusta co� ee beans, 4·358

Roca, Joanbiography of, 1·58as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258Eggplant Foam recipe, 4·280Modernist cuisine and, 1·57Oysters with Cava Foam recipe,

4·277rotary evaporation and, 2·388Smoked Octopus recipe, 3·215Sous Vide Cuisine by, 1·83Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot

and Orange Sauce recipe, 3·110Roche, Ben, 1·69rock salt for brine, table salt vs., 2·260Rocket Evaporator, 2·391–395

example recipes for, 2·394rocket widget, in Guinness beer cans,

4·250rock� sh, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·102Roellinger, Olivier

Exotic Spice Mixture recipe, 2·405Indies Spice Blend recipe, 2·40319th-Century-Style Lobster with

Sherry and Cocoa recipe, 3·107roller mills, for dry-grinding, 2·404rolling boil, blanching using steam vs.,

2·267romaine le� uce

Caesar Salad, 3·373Smoked Le� uce, 5·11, 15

Roman Empirecookbook of, 1·10. See also Apiciusgastronomy of, 1·10–12

Romano beans, Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87

Rømer, Ole, measuring speed of light and, 2·191

Romera, Miguel SánchezSteamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté

and, 4·32tapioca starch gel product by, 4·29

Romesco Sauce, 2·419Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven,

2·34–35root vegetables. See also speci� c root

vegetablesRoot Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53

roots, gelling agents from, 4·126rose petals

Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172Crystallized Rose Petals, 3·368

rose water, distillation of, 2·390rosemary extract, parametric recipe for,

2·326rose� a pa� ern, for ca� è la� es, 4·392,

394–395rotary evaporators, 2·384–394

boiling point vs. vacuum pressure in, 2·391

for concentrating � avor, 2·379, 380distillation using, 1·94, 2·384,

388–391essential oils and, 2·320manufacturers of, 2·384for Modernist kitchen, 2·285parts of, 2·386–387Rocket, Genevac, 2·391–395

rotary vegetable slicers, Japanese, 3·327rotavaps. See rotary evaporatorsrotaviruses, 1·155

Rothschild, Philippe de, 4·350rotisseries

roasting without turning vs. using, 2·32–33

sous vide vs., 2·228rotors

in colloid mills, 2·413–414in rotor-stator homogenizer, 2·413

rotor-stator homogenizersbreaking down food with, 2·400dispersing thickeners with, 4·24egg emulsions and, 4·226emulsifying with, 4·206, 208, 209foam forming with, 4·252friction e� ects in, 1·274hydration of ion-coagulated gels

with, 4·124hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4·38for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for shearing gels into � uids, 4·176wet-grinding with, 2·413, 420–421

roundworms, 1·120–123anisakid, 1·122–123Ascaris lumbricoides as, 1·123Trichinella as. See Trichinella spiralis;

trichinellosisroux

� avor of reduced jus vs., 4·11hydrocolloid dispersion in, 4·38technique of, 4·20, 22

Roux, Albert, 1·28, 41Roux, Michel, Nouvelle cuisine in the

U.K. and, 1·28Rouxl Britannia restaurants, 1·41royale custard, parametric recipe for,

4·92rubs, dry

Kansas Rub, 5·66, 68Memphis Rub, 5·66, 68parametric recipe for, 3·168–172

Ruhlman, Michael, 1·44, 95Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham

recipe, 3·183Ruscalleda, Carme

as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1·258crisping � sh skin by, 3·129

Russia, early gastronomy of, 1·8, 10Russian Pelmeni plated-dish recipe,

5·233–237Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212rutabagas



Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163in Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53

Rye Bread, 5·55, 59

Ssabayon

Blood Orange Sabayon, 5·147, 148Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune

Sabayon, 3·363Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot

Sabayon, 4·274sable� sh, cold-smoking, parametric

recipe for, 3·210safety. See also food safety

cryogen handling, 2·464, 466–467liquid nitrogen and, 2·459, 464, 466meat grinding or chopping tools and,

3·233with microwave oven, 2·190Modernist cooking and, 1·101with pressure cooker, 2·291–292,

3·298steam burns and, 1·319, 2·154

sa� ower oil, chemistry of, 2·126sa� ron extract, parametric recipe for,

2·326Sa� ron Honey Foam, 5·94sa� ron infusion, parametric recipe for,

2·310salads. See also coleslaw

Blossom Salad, 5·171, 172Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43,

47Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad,

5·94Fresh Bean Salad, 5·85, 87Green Mango and Cashew Salad,

5·167, 169Marinated Crab Salad, 5·189, 191Navel Orange Salad, 5·135, 138Pea Vine Salad, 5·273, 275Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry

Salad, 5·277, 278Potato Salad, 5·67, 73Pu� ed Chickpea Salad, 5·135, 138Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto

Salad, 4·53salamander

browning in, a� er sous vide cooking, 2·272–273

as original broiler, 2·18, 20salami, parametric recipe for, 3·244–245salinity

of brined and cured food, 3·152for brining, 3·154, 156, 158for curing, 3·160measuring, 2·313

during brining, 3·158salmon



diet and � esh color of, 3·93Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3·180Russian Smoked Salmon, 3·212Salmon Custard, 4·119Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4·155Salmon Rus plated-dish recipe,

5·161–165Salmon Tartare Cornets, 3·68in sorrel sauce, as � rst plated dish,

1·25Sous Vide Salmon, 5·161, 162


C I I I N D E X

SALMON SKIN SOUFFLÉSSalmon Skin Sou� é, 5·161, 163Salmonella spp.

CDC on foods associated with, 1·180“danger zone” temperatures and,

1·176, 177, 178–179extended and simpli� ed 6D

reduction guidelines for, 1·190FDA Food Code on cooking pork

and, 1·179FDA Food Code on thermal death

curve for, 1·182–189� esh contamination and, 1·117as foodborne pathogens, 1·134FSIS on reduction of, 1·168misconceptions about, 1·118in poultry, FDA 2009 Food Code on,

1·175replication limits of, 1·145

Salmonella enterica, 1·132, 145Salmonella enteritidis, 1·118Salmonella Heidelberg, 1·132Salmonella typhimurium, 1·132salmon-poisoning � uke, 1·124salsify


Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3·399Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and

Tru� e Puree, 4·114Salsify Fondant, 5·205, 207

salt cod broth, parametric recipe for, 2·304–305

Salt Gel, 5·5, 9salt pickles, parametric recipe for, 3·349salt (sodium chloride or table salt). See

also brines; brining; curing; ice-brine baths; salting

bi� er � avors and, 5·227for brine, rock salt vs., 2·260characteristics of, 3·152, 154Clostridium per� ingens and, 1·141concentration of, brining and, 3·154drying with, 2·430, 3·344in fermented sausage, 3·250formation of, 4·126freezing-point depression and, 1·305health and, 1·234, 236–237hypertension research and, 1·234for juicing, 2·335legislation regulating, 1·237moisture absorbed by, 2·428nucleation sites in boiling and, 1·316organic label for, 1·245other salts for brining vs., chemistry

of, 3·157production process for, 1·256in sausage, 3·223scaling using baker’s percentages

and, 1·96seasoning with, 2·312sel rose as

chemistry of, 3·162composition of, 3·161

solubility in water of, 1·331, 332weights and measures for, 1·94

salt-coagulated egg, parametric recipe for, 4·82

Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2·454, 5·185

Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5·17, 20salted cod roe, Fossilized Salsify

Branch, 3·399Salted Cucumber, 5·233, 236

Salted Halibut, 3·187, 5·151salted pollock roe, Fossilized Salsify

Branch, 3·399salting. See also brining; curing

example recipes for, 3·350–351, 354of � sh, scombroid poisoning and,

1·139parametric recipe for, 3·348–349protein gel of meat and seafood and,

3·84with salts other than sodium

chloride, chemistry of, 3·157 saltpeter

for dry-curing, 3·165for food preservation, 1·144–145in sel rose (curing salt), 3·162

saltscuring

cold-smoked food and, 2·143composition of, 3·161in fermented sausages, 3·222in sausage, 3·226sel rose and, chemistry of, 3·162sodium nitrate in, 3·158

for marinating, 3·190mineral, plant food cooking and,

3·278salting with salts other than sodium

chloride and, chemistry of, 3·157saltwater, shell� sh � avors and, 3·27salty brine. See ice-brine bathssampling error, in small-scale studies,

1·218Sanders, Harland

� e Colonel’s Chicken recipe, 3·336franchises of, 1·31innovations of, 1·21, 22pressure fryers and, 2·120trade secrets of, 1·76

sandwiches, Egg Salad Sandwich, 4·90sanitization, pasteurization vs., 2·250Sant Pau. See Ruscalleda, CarmeSantamaria, Santi, 1·63, 258Sant’Eustachio Il Ca� è, 4·374, 396Santini, Nadia, Nouvelle cuisine and,

1·28Santos, Rafael García, 1·59sarcomeres, in muscle, 3·6, 8–9sardines


Eggplant Foam, 4·280saturated condition, solubility and,

1·331saturated fat. See also cholesterol

characteristics of, 1·222French cuisine and, 1·228

saturated oils, � avor of unsaturated oils vs., 2·126

saturated solutions, 1·331, 332saturation vapor pressure, 1·320sauces. See also barbecue sauces

cheese, parametric recipe for, 4·223converting grams to volumes for,

5·XXXVIIcooling of, 1·206� our-thickened, � avor release and,


2·451Jus Gras, 4·237Pasta Marinara, 3·386

sauces (continued)Pressure-Cooked Polenta with

Strawberry Marinara, 4·50Rémoulade Sauce, 5·67, 75Sauce Allemande, 4·88Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 5·143, 145smoking and application of, 3·211Sofrito, 5·239, 243stocks for, 2·288thickening strategies for, 2·346vacuum evaporation for reducing,

2·346XO Sauce, 4·52

saucisson secparametric recipe for, 3·244–245Saucisson Sec, 3·247

sauerkrautabout, 5·39Braised Sauerkraut, 5·35, 39Sauerkraut, 3·351, 5·35

sausage stu� ers, 3·227, 232 sausages, 3·220–250. See also chorizo

Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5·35, 39basic principles of, 3·220, 222blood, history of, 3·220Boudin Blanc, 3·243Cantonese Fried Rice, 2·176–177casing for

preparation of, 3·226types of, 3·227

Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3·248coarse-ground, 3·220, 222

best bets for, 3·236–237cryosha� ering for, 3·230parametric recipe for, 3·236–237

cold-smoked, 2·143emulsi� ed, 3·222, 225

best bets for, 3·238–239Emulsi� ed Sausage with Fat Gel,

3·248Emulsion-Style Sausages, 3·238–239fat in, incorporating and holding,

3·224–225fermented. See fermented sausagesFermented Sausage, 3·244–245forming and � nishing, how to,

3·240–241, 246Frankfurter, 3·242fresh, 3·222Fried Chicken Sausage, 3·249gel (binding) for, making, 3·222–223Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5·85hot-smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·210Italian Sausage, 3·242linking technique for, 3·230Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3·248meat gels and, 3·70meat grinding or chopping tools for,

3·230–233Modernist, 3·248–249other ingredients in, 3·225–227overcooking, precautions for, 3·233poach test for, 3·225pregrinding meat treatments for,

3·228Rare Beef Sausage, 3·249sheets of, 3·241stu� ng, 3·227, 230tenderness of, fat and, 3·224Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82

Sautéed Maitake Mushroom, 5·11, 15

sautéing, 2·44–47covered, 2·58–61

chao technique and, 2·54cutaway illustration of, 2·60–61searing or glazing before, 2·58

� ipping food in, 2·46–47heat transfer by conduction in, 1·277pan selection for, 2·45tips for, 2·44

Savoy, GuyGras, Laurent and, 1·69New International cuisine and, 1·30

savoy cabbageSauerkraut, 3·351White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables,

5·167, 169Saxe, Godfrey, 3·220Scabin, Davide, 1·70scales

temperature, 1·266, 285–286for weight measurement

digital. See digital scaleslaboratory, for measuring

thickeners, 4·23scallions, Roasted Scallion Marmalade,

5·253, 255scallops

biology of, 3·26, 27Chawanmushi, 4·96chicken skin glued to, 3·252contamination of, 3·27–28cooking sous vide, parametric recipe


2·451Scallop Mochi, 4·308–309, 5·197,

202Scallop Tartare, 3·67in Seafood Paper, 3·188shucking of, 3·52

Scandinavia, early gastronomy of, 1·8, 10

Schecter, Andy, 4·396Schilling, Hans and Marke� a, 1·33, 34schizophrenia, Toxoplasma gondii and,

1·127Schlosser, Eric, 1·23Schlow, Michael, Achatz’s � rst meal at

elBulli and, 1·38schmaltz, chemistry of, 2·126Schneider, Martin, 1·70schnitzels, 2·127Schomer, David

on consistency, 4·396cooling burr grinders by, 4·376, 378espresso-making and, openness of,

4·374inventions by, 4·398Myhrvold and, 4·375pro� le of, 4·399

Schroeder, William, 1·62–63Schultz, Howard, 4·398Schwa, 1·69scienti� c names, origin of, 1·112scienti� c research. See also double-blind

trials; food science; randomized clinical trials

food safety rules and, 1·166sCJD (sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob

disease)scombroid poisoning, spoiled � sh and,

1·139


I N D E X C I I I

SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS Sscorching, of deep-fried foods, 2·125Scoville, Wilbur, 3·270Scoville Heat Units (SHU), 3·270scrambled eggs

parametric recipe for, 4·92Scrambled Egg Foam, 5·215, 216

scrapie, 1·157, 158screw tops, for wine bo� les, 4·344, 346sea bass, cooking sous vide, parametric

recipe for, 3·102sea cucumber

about, 5·203Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber

Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203

sea le� uce, 5·28sea urchin tongues

Sea Urchin Bo� arga, 3·186, 5·225, 226

Sea Urchin Bu� er, 5·225, 227Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 5·143, 145Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi,

Sesame, Ponzu, 5·197, 202Shell� sh Custard, 4·162Uni with Whipped Tofu and

Tapioca, 4·285sea urchins, biology of, 3·30–31seafood. See also � sh; shell� sh; speci� c

types of seafoodActiva as glue for, 3·250–256blanching or searing before cooking,

2·269brining, 3·152, 154, 156, 158

best bets for, 3·172converting muscle into, 3·37–38, 40,

42cooking

color and appearance of, 3·92–93� avor and, 3·84, 87–91grilling. See grillingideal temperature for, 3·89innards of, 3·142–143juiciness of, 3·79, 83muscles and, 3·5optics of, 3·93–94skin of, 3·129–132sous vide, 2·206, 276–279stages in, from raw to cooked, 3·76,

78–79succulence of, 3·83–84tenderness of, 3·70trade-o� s in, 3·94–95

critical temperature for freeze-drying, 2·446

crustaceans, biology of, 3·28–31cured

ripening of, 3·167, 171smoking of, 3·173

curing, 3·158, 160, 162best bets for, 3·172

cu� ing, 3·52–60fermenting, drying with warm air

and, 2·433frozen, handling and quality of,

1·182how muscle works in, 3·20–31Maillard reaction and � avor of,

3·89–91marinating, 3·190–207mollusks, biology of, 3·24–26muscles in, 3·20–31salting. See curingsausage made from

seafood (continued)best bets for, 3·238making a gel (binding) for, 3·222

Seafood Paper, 3·188searing before covered sautéing of,

2·58shell� sh. See shell� shsmoking, 3·208–219

best bets for, 3·210sources for, 5·XXXIIItartares, 3·62–64, 66–69temperature and � avor of, 3·88–89tenderizing enzymes in, 3·78tenderness of, 3·10–11

seafood brine, basic, parametric recipe for, 3·168

seal meat, myoglobin in, 3·15Sealed Air Corporation, 1·42seals, for canning, 2·77 seam cu� ing, 3·45, 47Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149Seared Langoustine, 5·239, 245Seared Strawberry, 5·277, 279searing. See also cryosearing

with charcoal vs. gas grills, 2·11in combi oven, convection mode for,

2·168covered sautéing and, 2·58to crisp skin, 3·123extended and simpli� ed 6D


food safety and, 1·191frozen meat, 3·122before Jaccarding, 3·51a la plancha, 2·40–41for Maillard reaction, 3·95for sealing juices in meat, myth of,

3·85for sous vide cooking, 2·267, 269,

270–275temperatures for, 1·186–187before vacuum packing vs. a� er

cooking, 2·268seasonings. See also dry rubs; spice

mixes; spices; speci� c seasoningsconverting grams to volumes for,

5·XXXVIIImeat and seafood, 3·88with salt and other � avor enhancers,

2·312with wine, beer, and spirits, 2·317

seasoning woks or frying pans, 2·53Sea� le, as co� ee capital of the world,

history of, 4·398Sea� le’s Best Co� ee, 4·398seaweed

Bacon Dashi, 2·308Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3·181Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice

and Sea Le� uce, 3·149gelling agents from, 4·68, 126Hon Dashi, 2·306, 5·197hydrocolloids from, 4·124Marinated Ogo, 5·175, 177preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Seaweed Tapenade, 5·25, 27Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315thickening agents from, 4·5, 19types of, 5·28

secondary emulsion, 4·206� e Secret Life of Germs (Tierno), 1·196

sedimentationas draining in foams, 4·249as emulsion failure, 4·210

seedsdistribution of, ecology of, 3·265hydrocolloids from, 4·124mustard, preserving, parametric

recipe for, 3·348seasonal mélanges with, 3·294sesame, Pressure-Cooked Sesame

Seeds, 3·303, 5·181toxins in, and propagation of, 3·262typical

fat content of, 5·XLIIIwater content of, 5·XLI

sel rosechemistry of, 3·162composition of, 3·161

selection bias, nutritional studies and, 1·219

selenium, health bene� ts of, 1·235self-cleaning combi ovens, 2·169semiconvecting foods, pressure-

canning of, 2·88semidry sausages, 3·246, 250semolina pasta

parametric recipe for, 3·381Semolina Pasta, 3·382

Senderens, AlainDuck Apicius and, 5·121Foie Gras à la Vapeur recipe, 5·109Le Nouveau Guide on, 1·26on wine pairings, 4·352

sensory scienceBlumenthal and, 1·50of wine tasting, 4·337

sequestrantscalcium and, 4·126–127coagulant molecules and, 4·72hydrating ion-coagulated gels with,

4·125using, 4·129

Sergi Arola Gastro, 1·57serovars (serotypes), bacterial variants

as, 1·132Serra, Richard, Yogurt Foam and Sweet

Potato Chips recipe, 4·287Serrano, Julian, New International

cuisine and, 1·30service à la Russe, 1·25serving temperature

brewed co� ee and, 4·364gel selection and, 4·73thickener selection and, 4·14–15

sesame oil, chemistry of, 2·126sesame seeds, Pressure-Cooked Sesame

Seeds, 3·303, 5·181set foams, 4·288–301

baked, water as secondary foaming gas for, 4·254

baked goods as, 4·245best bets for, 4·288–289example recipes for, 4·290–301frozen, 4·245, 247parametric recipe for, 4·288–289as thermo-irreversible gels, 4·244vacuum-in� ated, 4·252, 254, 310–315

se� ling periodin baking, 2·106in deep-frying, 2·116–117in drying, 2·431

Seven Countries Study, 1·225sha� horsepower, 1·274

shallotscooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289, 290, 292Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5·43,


shallow fryingamount of oil for, 2·127–128heat conduction in, 2·127

Shanghai Soup Dumplings plated-dish recipe, 5·253–256

Shangri-La diet, 1·241Shanker, Anjana, chaat masala made by,

5·281shark, Greenland, chemistry of, 3·43Shaved Foie Gras, 3·177shear forces

in foam forming, 4·252viscosity of � uids and, 4·5–6

shear-thinning � uidsemulsions as, 4·204� uid gels as, 4·16, 176as non-Newtonian � uids, 4·6whipped cream as, 4·248

sheep. See also lambscrapie in, 1·157

sheep liver � uke, 1·123shell� sh. See also speci� c shell� sh

allergies to, 1·238biology of, 3·26–28cooking sous vide

example recipes for, 3·107parametric recipe for, 3·102–103

fat content of, 5·XLIII plated-dish recipes for, 5·179–207raw, food safety and, 3·27–28Shell� sh Bu� er, 2·329Shell� sh Custard, 4·162Shell� sh Omakase plated-dish

recipe, 5·197–203smoked


tender, cooking sous videbest bets for, 3·103parametric recipe for, 3·103

tough, cooking sous videbest bets for, 3·108example recipes for, 3·112 parametric recipe for, 3·108

shell� sh consommé, parametric recipe for, 2·374–375

shell� sh jus, parametric recipe for, 2·344–345

shell� sh sausage, parametric recipe for, 3·238–239

shell� sh stockparametric recipe for, 2·296–297Shell� sh Stock, 2·297, 5·185, 186

Shelton, Winston. See also CVap water-vapor ovens

on forced convection in ovens, 2·159pressure fryers and, 2·120

Sherry Gel Cube, 5·267, 270Shigella spp., 1·134, 145Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes,

Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 5·197, 200

shiitake mushroomscooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,

4·275


C I V I N D E X

SHIITAKE MUSHROOMSSshiitake mushrooms (continued)

Mushroom Ketchup, 5·11, 13Mushroom Puree, 5·215, 216Shiitake Marmalade, 5·5, 7Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313Sweetbreads with Sour Mango

Powder and Shiitake, 3·151shimeji mushrooms



French Scrambled Eggs, 4·93Shimomura, Koji, 1·70shisito pepper, Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea

Cucumber Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5·197, 203

SHMP. See sodium hexametaphosphateshot glass, pulling espresso shot into,

4·384 shrimp

biology of, 3·28, 31brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172dried, Pad � ai, 3·385Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 5·167,

168as seafood gel, 3·222Shrimp and Grits, 3·377Shrimp Cocktail, 3·107Shrimp Cocktail plated-dish recipe,

5·180–183Spot Prawn and Lotus Root

Tempura with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, 201

SHU (Scoville Heat Units), 3·270SI units (Système International

d’Unités), 1·272Sichuan Bok Choy, 3·313side towels, cross-contamination and,

1·200Siebeck, Wolfram, 1·62sieving. See also � ltering

equipment for, 2·286for � ltering, 2·351, 353

signature dishes, Modernist cuisine at elBulli vs., 1·37

silica geldesiccant properties of, 2·428, 433freeze-dried food storage and,

2·447silicone mats, 2·286silicone molds, 2·286silicone oven mi� s, conduction in,

1·280Silken Tofu, 4·113simmering

boiling vs., 1·316de� nition of, 1·317

simple syrup, as reduction, 4·11simulations, computer. See computer

simulation modelsSinclair, Upton, 3·35single-disc mills, for dry-grinding,

2·404sinks, cross-contamination and, 1·200Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297Siphoned Tempura Ba� er, 5·143, 144siphons. See soda siphon; whipping

siphonsskate


skate (continued)Skate in Black Bu� er plated-dish

recipe, 5·157–159Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 5·157,

159skin, 3·116–135. See also chicken skin;

duck skin; � sh skinbaking chicken upright and, 2·109of cephalopods, 3·24components of, 3·116cooking separately from meat, 3·122crisping, 3·123

approaches to, 3·123a� er cooking sous vide, 2·268of � sh, 3·129slime as key to, 3·129of small � sh, how to, 3·130sous vide, of � sh, 3·131

meatcooking, 3·116–129, 133–135gluing on, 3·252

pu� ng, 3·123so� ening, 3·116, 118, 122–123

skin-puncturing toolfor Modernist kitchen, 2·286Peking Duck cooking using, 3·122

skyr, parametric recipe for, 4·56slaughterhouse practices, 3·32, 34–35,

36Slayer espresso machine, 4·398, 400,

401slicing

of � sh, for nigiri sushi, 3·60of meat, 3·47, 50, 76

slime, crispy skin and, physiology of, 3·129

Slow Food, history of, 1·23slow-curing rub, parametric recipe for,

3·169slow-twitch muscles

fast-twitch muscles vs., 3·11–12fat content and, 3·18in meat, 3·11–12meat color and, 3·14–15

slug-and-column boiling, 1·316, 318, 2·68–69

slurry method, for Activa bonds, 3·256small dense low-density lipoproteins

(sdLDL), 1·226, 227small-scale scienti� c studies, 1·218SMC (super methylcellulose), for

cellulose gum gels, parametric recipe for, 4·170, 171

smells. See aromas; odorsSmith, Clark, on dealcoholization, 4·331smoke. See also smoking

capturing � avor of, 2·138chemistry of � avor and, 2·12hot vs. cold, 2·140–141liquid

chemistry of, 2·149for cold-smoking, 3·361

making, 2·134, 137smell of, appeal to humans, 3·208temperature of, 2·140–141

smoke condensates, drenching food with, 2·149

smoke gun, packing and lighting, how to, 3·214

smoke points, of frying oils, 2·116, 125, 126

Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 4·101smoked � sh, example recipe for, 3·212

Smoked Le� uce, 5·11, 15Smoked Octopus, 3·215Smoked Pepper Puree, 5·55, 57Smoked Pork Cheek, 5·35, 38Smoked Potato Con� t, 5·193, 195Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune

Sabayon, 3·363smoking, 2·132–149, 3·208–219. See also

barbecue; smokeair � ow and temperature for, 2·137capturing � avor in, 2·138chemicals and, 2·140cold, 2·141–143, 3·61of dairy products

best bets for, 4·100example recipes for, 4·101

of deep-frying oil, 2·124of eggs, best bets for, 4·100equipment for, 2·146–147, 285, 3·208of fermented sausages, 3·222� re for, 3·208, 211of � sh, scombroid poisoning and,

1·139� esh surface in, 3·211hot, 2·143, 148, 3·211, 361humidity and, 2·132by hunter-gatherers, 1·6making smoke for, 2·134, 137of meat


myths and lore of, 2·145of plant foods, 3·344, 361–363


progressive, 2·148regional specialties in, 3·218–219ripening of cured meat or seafood

and, 3·173of sausages, 3·240of shell� sh


smoke temperature in, 2·140–141tapeworms and, 1·124temperature for, 2·132, 135wet vs. dry food and, 2·141wood choices for, 2·136

snailsbiology of, 3·26cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·108farmed, 5·243Sous Vide Braised Snail, 5·239, 243

snappercooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102Crispy Snapper Skin, 5·167, 168Sous Vide Snapper, 5·167, 169

SNCF (French railway system), sous vide cooking and, 1·41

soap, as surfactant, 4·202Soccarat Tuile, 5·239, 245“� e Socrates of the Nouvelle Cuisine,”

1·26soda siphon, 2·286soda water

Priestley’s “� xed air” and, 2·464taste of, 2·465

sodascarbon dioxide for, 1·334, 4·254ready-to-drink, 1·20

sodium, ion-exchange � lters and, 1·335

sodium alginateas emulsion stabilizer, 4·215as foam stabilizer, 4·257grades of, 5·256interactions with other thickeners,

4·44–45product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43for spheri� cation, parametric recipe

for, 4·187sodium benzoate, fresh juice color and,

2·338sodium caseinate, for froths, parametric

recipe for, 4·264sodium citrate

hydrating ion-coagulated gels with, 4·126

processed cheese food and, 4·222product guide for, 4·IV–Vas sequestrant, 4·129

sodium hexametaphosphate (SHMP)for brining or curing, 3·157for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe

for, 4·165hydrating LA gellan with, 4·125product guide for, 4·IV–Vas sequestrant, 4·129for spheri� cation, parametric recipe

for, 4·187sodium nitrate, 3·158, 165sodium nitrite, 1·144–145, 3·165, 226sodium pyrophosphate, 4·IV–Vsodium tripolyphosphate

for brining or curing, 3·157, 158in marinade, 3·143myosin extraction for sausage and,

3·223Sofrito, 5·239, 243so� drinks

carbon dioxide for, 1·334, 4·254ready-to-drink, 1·20

so� -boiled eggsparametric recipe for, 4·79perfect, how to, 4·79process for, 4·74So� -Boiled Egg and Garlic

Emulsion, 4·227sole


in Seared Hamachi, 5·147, 149sole meunière and, science of, 3·40Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot

Sabayon, 4·274Soler, Juli, 1·33, 34, 38solids

bulking, hydrocolloid hydration and, 4·40

dissolved, reduction and, 4·11as foaming agents, 4·244Fourier on heat conduction through,

1·278hot, physics of blowing on, 1·288internal energy of, 1·264

physics of, 1·301phase changes and thermal energy

from, 1·290radiant heat from, 1·285rheologic descriptions of, 4·VIIIas solvents, 1·330suspended, molding gels with, how

to, 4·133suspension in, gel selection and, 4·73


I N D E X C V

SPOILAGE BACTERIA Ssolubility. See also dissolved materials

concentration of solution and, 1·331of polar solids, 1·330

solubility limit, 1·331solubles concentration, brewing control

chart on, 4·366–367solubles yield, brewing control chart on,

4·366–367solutes, 1·330solutions, 1·330. See also dissolved

materials; solubilitySolvay process, 1·255solvent extraction, of essential oils,

2·320solvents, 1·330sonicators, 2·398Sontheimer, Carl, 2·412sorbet

Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4·311pacotizing, 2·406, 407, 408–409Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279

sorbitan esters, as surfactant emulsi� ers, 4·216–217

sorbitolfor hot fruit gels, parametric recipe


4·160Sørensen, Søren Peter Lauritz, 3·194sou� és

cutaway illustration of, 4·248–249Gruyère Sou� é, 4·301Salmon Skin Sou� é, 5·161, 163as set foam, 4·247–248Siphoned Sou� é á la Lorraine, 4·297

sound, Blumenthal’s use of, 1·50soup, Adrià’s method for serving, 1·52Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), 4·117,

5·55, 59sour � avor, co� ee brewing and, 4·364sour mango powder, Sweetbreads with

Sour Mango Powder and Shiitake, 3·151Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5·277, 279sour vinegar pickles, parametric recipe

for, 3·349sous vide methods, 2·192–279

aging braises and pot roasts and, 2·98

aging technique using, 2·250AGS system of vacuum packing and,

1·40bene� ts of, 2·198–199, 201blanching for, 2·266–275chilling strategies, 2·251–265common myths about, science of,

2·206–207con� t, 2·128–129cook-chill. See cook-chill sous vide

methodscookers for, types of, 2·232–233cooking foods directly from freezer

and, 2·258, 262cooking strategies for, 2·204–205,

242–251cooking times and

for cylinder-shaped food with diameter 15 cm/ 6 in, 2·276

for cylinder-shaped food with length 15 cm/ 6 in, 2·277

for cylinder-shaped food with thickness about equal to diameter, 2·278

sous vide methods (continued)for slabs of meat with width and

length � ve times its thickness, 2·279

cooking to speci� c temperatures and, 2·243–247

de� nition of, 2·195, 197development of, 2·252, 265equipment for, 2·228–241. See also

equipment; speci� c types of equipmentfor home use, 1·73

extended and simpli� ed 6.5D Salmonella reduction for, 1·193

extracting � avors with, 2·251FDA rules on, 1·182, 186, 189food poisoning and, 1·138holding food at target temperature

and, 2·247–249at home, history of, 1·73infusing � avors with, 2·251liquid nitrogen and, 2·459low-temperature steam mode for,

2·157for mass-market dinners, 2·265New York City health department

rules on, 1·188, 195packaging food for. See vacuum

packingpasteurizing for storage using,

2·249–250reheating and, 2·242, 262, 264ripening technique using, 2·250searing and, 2·266–275smoking using, 2·148steps in, 2·202–203stocks and, 2·302temperature control with,

2·230–231thawing or cooking foods directly

from freezer and, 2·258, 262water baths for. See water bathswater circulation control for,

2·234–235Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal

Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111Sous Vide Artichoke, 5·239, 244Sous Vide Baby Beet, 5·181, 183Sous Vide Baby Golden Beet, 5·233,

235Sous Vide Beef Juice, 2·349Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak, 5·5, 7Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2·340Sous Vide Black Cod, 5·171, 173Sous Vide Braised Snail, 5·239, 243Sous Vide Clam and Oat Riso� o, 3·308Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3·353Sous Vide Cuisine (Roca), 1·58Sous Vide Duck Con� t Pavé, 5·81, 82Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5·85, 87Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303Sous Vide Foie Gras, 5·109, 110Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, 5·219,

221Sous Vide Golden Beets, 5·233, 235Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 5·147, 149Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 5·135, 137Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise,

1·95–96, 4·228Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4·227Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2·330Sous Vide Lentils, 5·267, 271Sous Vide Monk� sh Pavé, 5·151, 155

Sous Vide Mussel, 5·151, 154Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2·346Sous Vide Octopus, 5·193, 194Sous Vide Pigeon O� al, 5·125, 130Sous Vide Ponzu, 2·313Sous Vide Pork Belly, 5·101, 102Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2·347Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 5·239, 242Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 2·349Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53Sous Vide Salmon, 5·161, 162Sous Vide Snapper, 5·167, 169Sous Vide Sweetbreads, 5·31, 32Sous Vide Turnip, 5·31, 33Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 5·49, 50Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303Sous Vide White Asparagus, 5·147, 149South Beach Diet, 1·242South Carolina BBQ Sauce, 5·66, 70South Carolina hospital food, AGS

system of vacuum packing for, 1·40Southern barbecue, hot-smoking and,

3·211soy, foaming agent in, 4·251soy curd. See also tofu

traditional method for, 4·102soy gels, parametric recipe for,

4·116–117soy lecithin

de-oiled, for airs and froths, parametric recipe for, 4·264

product guide for, 4·II–IIIsoy milk

Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401Soy Milk, 4·58

soy oil, hydrogenated, chemistry of, 2·126

soy saucePassion Fruit-White Soy Sauce

Vinaigre� e, 5·181, 183smoking, parametric recipe for,

3·362Soy Sauce Cloud, 4·299Soy Vinegar Infusion, 5·253, 256

soy yuba, 5·205Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu

with Yuba and Enoki, 5·197, 203Green Pea Yuba, 4·115

soybean oil, chemistry of, 2·126soybeans, allergies to, 1·238spaetzle, Sour Cream Spaetzle

(Csipetke), 4·117, 5·55, 59Spaghe� i alle Vongole plated-dish

recipe, 5·229–231Spaghe� i Carbonara, 3·384spaghe� i squash, Marinated Spaghe� i

Squash, 5·147, 149Spago, 1·29Spain

early gastronomy of, 1·10Horchata drinks in, 4·59in� uence on Western cuisine by, 1·14Modernist cuisine in, 1·57Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28

Spam, 1·21, 22–23sparkling white wine. See also

ChampagneFizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4·183Oysters with Cava Foam, 4·277

Sparta, Greece, military cuisine in, 1·12, 13

species, in scienti� c naming system, 1·112

speci� c heatcalculating e� ciency using, 1·275de� nition of, 1·266–267heat capacity of cookware and, 1·278how liquid nitrogen boils and,

science of, 2·457measuring of, 1·268

speci� c heat capacityof common kitchen materials, 1·267de� nition of, 1·266–267

spectrum. See also emission spectraheat rays on, 1·284infrared, 1·287

Spectrum diet, 1·242Spencer, Percy, 1·22, 2·182–183spheres, molding gel into, 4·135spheri� cation, 4·184–195

Adrià’s use of, 1·39, 4·184alginate for, 4·127best bets for, 4·187with cryogens, 4·184direct, 4·130, 186evolution of, 5·256example recipes for, 4·188–195hydrocolloid coagulation and, 4·70melon juice beads due to, 4·48parametric recipe for, 4·186–187reverse, 4·187, 5·254suspending solids in gelled spheres

and, 4·187spice mixes

Fish Spice Mix, 5·151, 154Spice-Mix Emulsion, 5·151, 155Sweet Spice Blend, 5·211, 212

Spiced Ash, 5·17, 22Spiced Chili Oil, 2·330Spiced Honey Glass, 5·121, 123Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 5·109, 111Spice-Mix Emulsion, 5·151, 155spices

for brining or curing, 3·158medieval cuisine and, 1·12in sausage, 3·226seasonal mélanges with, 3·295toasting, 5·94trading, discovery of New World

and, 1·14, 3·197spinach

cookingbene� ts of, 3·267sous vide, parametric recipe for,

3·290Creamed Spinach, 4·55dehydrating, parametric recipe for,

3·366E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006

and, 1·169–170, 172, 195puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Spinach Paper, 3·369

spinalis dorsi, in pork and beef, 3·15spirits. See also alcohol (ethanol); speci� c

alcoholic beveragesdistillation of, 2·384, 390production process for liquor and,

1·256seasoning with, 2·317

spit jacks for roasting, 2·28spit-roasting, 2·32–33spi� le, human, contamination by, 1·116,

117spoilage bacteria, 1·133–134, 135


C V I I N D E X

SPONGESSsponges, cross-contamination and,

1·200spongiform encephalopathies,

transmissible, 1·156–159sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease

(sCJD), 1·157spores, bacterial, food spoilage and,

1·136, 138–141Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura

with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5·197, 201

Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 4·233spray dryer, example recipes for, 2·443Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 2·443Spray-Dried Bu� ermilk, 2·443spray-drying

characteristics of, 2·438–441equipment for, 2·285, 430method for, 2·442

spreadscheese, parametric recipe for, 4·223Olive Oil Spread, 4·51

Spring Garlic Consommé, 5·85, 86spring-loaded valves, for pressure

cookers, 2·86–87Square Mile Co� ee, 4·396squash. See also speci� c types of squash



Squash Glaze, 5·60, 63squid


for, 3·108scoring to tenderize, 3·56in Seafood Paper, 3·188Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 3·113

squid inkSquid Ink Fluid Gel, 4·131Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Riso� o,

3·397Ssamjang Paste, 5·285, 287St. John, 3·142Staphylococcus aureus, 1·135, 144–145star anise extract, parametric recipe for,

2·326star anise infusion, parametric recipe

for, 2·310Starbucks, 4·398Starch-Infused Fries, 3·324Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325starches, 4·20–37. See also speci� c

starchesbest bets for thickening with, 4·28dispersion of, 4·20, 22drying plants foods with, 3·365in fermented sausage, 3·246� avor release by, 4·11foam forming with, 4·244, 247, 255gelling agents from, 4·68, 69hydration of, 4·22modi� ed. See modi� ed starchesin plant foods, 3·280–283plated-dish recipes for, 5·223–256pregelatinized

as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215thickening sauces, jus, or glazes

with, 2·346proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41as thickeners, 4·5, 7, 13, 19

example recipes for, 4·29, 31–37

starches (continued)modern, parametric recipe for, 4·30traditional, parametric recipe for,

4·28statins, heart disease and, 1·227statistical power, of nutritional studies,

1·220statistician, Gosset as, 4·251stators

in colloid mills, 2·413–414in rotor-stator homogenizer, 2·413

steaks. See also beefcooked, fats in, 1·233FDA Food Code on cooking, 1·174in frying pan, cutaway illustration of,

3·72–73vs. roasts, FDA Food Code on, 1·187

steam. See also autoclaves; bubbles; evaporation; steaming

blanching using, 2·267boiling and, 2·65, 68–69burns from, 1·319, 2·154condensing, heat transfer coe� cient

of, 1·283in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117,

118–119, 125distillation, of essential oils, 2·318,

320as foaming gas, 4·254heat of vaporization of water and,

1·296low-temperature, use of term, 2·155in shallow frying, 2·127–128as water phase, 1·300zones of, 1·318

steam modein combi ovens, 2·167in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158–159in ovens, pros and cons of, 2·155–156

steam wandsfoam forming with, 4·258to froth milk, 4·391

Steamed Blancmange, 4·296Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 4·32Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 5·181, 183Steamed Sticky Rice, 5·113, 119steaming, 2·70–73. See also autoclaves;

steamboiling vs., 2·72–73chemistry of sweetness due to, 2·70cutaway illustration of, 2·72–73fog compared to, 2·71hot-packing canning and, 2·77as phase change, 1·290in Western and Asian cooking, 2·70

Steam’N’Hold vapor oven, 2·158stearic acid, 1·233, 234Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel

Salad, 3·106Stefan, Josef, 1·287Stefan-Boltzmann law, 1·285–286, 289Steingarten, Je� rey

biography of, 1·65on Chinese restaurant syndrome,

1·213on hypermodern cuisine, 1·57on oxalic acid in spinach, 3·267, 273Potato Puree recipe, 3·296

Stelvin screw top for wine, 4·344steric hindrance or resistance, 4·12sterilization, 1·148–149

in boiling-water canning, 2·79–80canning and, 2·76

sterilization (continued)modern con� t preparation and, 2·128pasteurization vs., 2·249–250in pressure-canning, 2·85, 88time to temperature using pressure-

canning for, 2·89Stewart Brothers Co� ee, 4·398stewing, 2·96–98. See also braising

cutaway illustration of, 2·96–97pot-roasting or braising vs., 2·93

sti� ness, gel selection and, 4·73Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns, 5·113, 119stir-frying, 2·48–57. See also woks

bao technique for, 2·54–55burners for, 2·48, 52, 56–57chao technique for, 2·54, 56–57cutaway illustration of, 2·50–51,

56–57heat transfer in, 2·48seasoning woks or frying pans for,

2·53stirred baths, for sous vide cooking,

2·234stirring. See also magnetic stirring bar

boundary layer and, 1·283before poaching eggs, physics of, 2·67

Stock� eth’s method, for grooming espresso, 4·381

stocksaromatics for, 2·298brown

Brown Beef Stock, 2·301Brown Bu� er Fumet, 5·157, 158Brown Veal Stock, 2·300rich, parametric recipe for, 2·297Rich Brown Stock, 2·297

concentrating � avor of, 2·380cooling of, 1·206example recipes for, 2·300–301, 303� avor extraction for sauces and, 2·288freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,

2·451Onion Stock, 5·261, 264Paella Stock, 5·239, 240parametric recipe for, 2·296–298Pressure-Cooked White Chicken

Stock, 2·301pressure-cooking, 2·294–295

how to, 2·293Ramen Stock Powder, 2·455, 5·247shell� sh, parametric recipe for, 2·297Shell� sh Stock, 2·297size of ingredients and � avor of,

2·290–292sous vide

Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2·303Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303

vacuum � ltering of, 2·354white

parametric recipe for, 2·297White Stock, 2·297

stomachcharacteristics and cooking of,

3·142–143as sausage binder, 3·222

stove top. See also burnersbraising and pot-roasting using, 2·96how heat is lost from, 1·276hydrating thickeners on, 4·26for Modernist kitchen, 2·287pot on. See pots, on stovereductions, 2·346, 379

stove-top smokers, 2·146

straining, for � ltering, 2·351, 353strawberries




heat-treating, parametric recipe for, 3·359


Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry Salad, 5·277, 278

Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry Marinara, 4·50

Seared Strawberry, 5·277, 279Strawberry Consommé, 5·277, 278Strawberry Gazpacho, 5·277, 278Strawberry Milk Shake, 2·473, 5·11

strawberry chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328

stress, slaughterhouse practices and, 3·34stretching phase, in milk steaming,

4·391strong co� ee, brewing and, 4·364Stu� ed Clam, 5·229, 231Stu� ed Morels, 5·113, 117Stu� ed Smoky Braised Eggplant, 5·99Stupak, Alex

Aerated Co� ee Ice Cream recipe, 4·312

Pistachio Puree recipe, 2·427Whipped Cheese recipe, 4·272

sturgeoncooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 5·233,

235Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rille� es,

5·233, 235“Styrofoam” Cup and Lid, 5·247,

248–249Subijana, Pedro, Eggs Benedict recipe,

4·86sublimation

of aromatic compounds in frozen foods, 2·261

carbonating liquids and, 2·464critical temperature for freeze-

drying and, 2·446deposition vs., 1·329dry ice and, 1·326evaporative cooling due to, 2·446in freeze-drying, 1·328, 2·444, 3·365in freezers, 1·326heat of, 1·326of ice, 1·326solid transmission to gas as,

1·326–329of water, 1·326–329

subspecies, 1·132succulence, cooking meat and seafood

and, 3·83–84suckling pig


Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and Orange Sauce, 3·110

Sucro, for airs and froths, parametric recipe for, 4·264

sucrosecentrifuging and, 2·368


I N D E X C V I I

TARGET CORE TEMPERATURE Tsucrose (continued)


G� S criteria and, 1·254suction pump, vacuum � ltration and,

2·354Suet Mousseline, 5·5, 8sugar preserves, parametric recipe for,

3·349sugar syrup, cooking fruits or vegetables

sous vide in, 3·291sugar-glass foams

carbon dioxide for, 4·254Modernist cuisine and, 4·255

sugarsconverting grams to volumes for,

5·XXXVII–XXXVIIIdissolving in water, 1·296drying with, 2·430, 3·344for edible � lms, parametric recipe

for, 4·60freeze-drying and, 2·447freezing-point depression and, 1·305for juicing, 2·335organic food movement perception

of, 1·253production process for, 1·256re� ning process for, 1·254in sausage, 3·226for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289solids, as foam stabilizer, 4·257solubility in water of, 1·331, 332spheri� cation and, 4·184supersaturated solution of, 1·332for thick foams, parametric recipe

for, 4·278–279Sugimoto, Tagashi, Green Pea Yuba

recipe, 4·115sul� tes

drying plant foods with, 3·365fresh juice color and, 2·338intolerance to, 1·239

sulfur dioxide, cork taint in wine and, 4·348–349

Sullivan, Geneva, 4·399summer squash, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·289sunchokes


Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4·31Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5·125,


Sunday Pork Belly plated-dish recipe, 5·101–105

sun� ower oil, chemistry of, 2·126Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 4·148–149sunny-side up eggs, process for, 4·74super methylcellulose (SMC), for

cellulose gum gels, parametric recipe for, 4·170, 171

supercooled liquids, 1·304how to supercool water and, 1·312

supercritical � uidscritical point and, 1·328extraction of

deca� einated co� ee and, 4·363� avor and, 2·320

as gas and liquid, 1·302–303supersaturated solutions, 1·332surface area, volume ratio to, 2·288

surface tensionof bubbles, 4·246of water, hydrogen bonds and, 1·296,

298surfactants

emulsi� ers as, 4·202as foaming agent, 4·244HLB values and, chemistry of, 4·204in oil used for deep-frying, 2·123for stabilizing emulsions, 4·214

Surger, in Guinness beer bo� les, 4·251surgical tweezers, for cooking, 1·197surimi, 3·251, 388susceptible populations

foodborne illnesses and, 1·174, 191warnings for, 1·178, 182

sushianisakid infections and, 1·122–123� ash-cooking, how to, 3·61nigiri, how to slice � sh for, 3·60tapeworms and, 1·124

suspending solids in gelled spheres, 4·187sustainable food

current buzz on, 1·248New American cuisine and, 1·28

Swatland, Howard, 3·44Swedish hospital food, sous vide

technology and, 1·40, 2·252, 265Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 5·43, 44sweet cure, basic, parametric recipe for,

3·169sweet Italian sausage, parametric recipe

for, 3·236–237Sweet Onion Salsa, 5·175, 177Sweet Pea and Young Ginger Fricassee,

5·273, 275Sweet Pea Clusters, 4·173Sweet Pea Fricassee plated-dish recipe,

5·272–275Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371sweet peas. See green peasSweet Potato Fondant, 5·35, 39sweet potatoes


necrotizing enteritis and, 1·141Sweet Potato Fondant, 5·35, 39Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato

Chips, 4·287Sweet Spice Blend, 5·211, 212sweet spot or zone

of broilers, 2·18–19, 22–23of grills, 2·14–17roasting and, 2·32

sweet vinegar pickles, parametric recipe for, 3·349

Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onions, 5·17, 19

sweetbreadsbrining, parametric recipe for, 3·172characteristics and cooking of, 3·140cooking sous vide, 3·146

parametric recipe for, 3·146Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150de� nition of, 5·32Sous Vide Sweetbreads, 5·31, 32Sweetbreads with Sour Mango

Powder and Shiitake, 3·151sweeteners. See also speci� c sweeteners

volumetric equivalents for amounts of, 5·XLIV

water content of, 5·XLI

sweetness, chemistry of steaming and, 2·70

Swiss cheese� e American Cheese Slice, 4·224scombroid poisoning and, 1·139

sword� sh, cooking temperature for, 3·83

Sybaris, Greece, culinary inventions protected in, 1·12, 13

syneresisfreeze � ltration and, 2·369, 370–371gel failure due to, 4·67modern thickeners and, 4·5thickener selection and, 4·15, 17

synergygelling agents and, 4·72thickeners and, 4·16

Synesso espresso machine, 4·372, 374, 375, 398, 400

Cyncra model of, 4·401Synsepalum dulci� cum, 2·465synthetic corks, for wine bo� les, 4·344,

345, 346syrups

converting grams to volumes for, 5·XXXVII

maple, grades of, 5·77Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128Miang Syrup, 5·189, 191sugar, cooking fruits or vegetables

sous vide in, 3·291White Grape Syrup, 4·52

Système International d’Unités, 1·272

Ttable salt. See salt (sodium chloride or

table salt)Taenia saginata, 1·124Taenia solium, 1·124Tagine Base, 5·135, 137Tailor, 1·67 tails, in distillation, 2·384Takazawa, Yoshiaki, 1·70

aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4·37Talbot, H. Alexander

Aerated Gruyère and, 4·312agar for clarifying liquids and, 2·372on blanching sous vide, 3·293on browned solids from clari� ed

bu� er, 4·212chicken skin glued to scallops by,

3·252Compressed Melon Terrine recipe,

3·392on cooking whole chicken eggs, 4·75fast hot-spring eggs and, 4·78� sh skin pillows of, 3·131gel � ltration and, 2·369Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe,

4·105Ideas in Food blog and, 1·66, 67Modernist Béchamel and, 4·31Pasta Marinara recipe, 3·386Pulled Mushroom recipe, 3·396smoked eggs by, 4·100Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe,

4·292tamago, example recipe for, 4·94tamarind

as acidi� er, 2·314Tamarind Paste, 5·43, 99Tamarind Puree, 5·281, 282

tampers, for espresso, 4·383–384tamping, of espresso porta� lters

considerations for, 4·383–384dosing and, 4·380how to, 4·382pressure-controlled, 4·398

tannic acid, acorn cooking by Native Americans and, 1·6

tannin, in red wine, reducing, 4·334tapenade, Seaweed Tapenade, 5·25, 27tapeworms, 1·124–125

contamination by, 1·120destruction of, 1·123types of, 1·124

tapiocaPickled Tapioca Pearl, 5·205, 207Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4·29Uni with Whipped Tofu and

Tapioca, 4·285tapioca starch, 4·20, 21, 28, 68

source of, 3·376thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·28tapioca starch cracker

parametric recipe for, 4·302Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4·303

tarbais beans, Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 5·81, 83

target core temperatureholding food at, 2·247–249water bath ho� er than, 2·243–247water bath set to, 2·243–245


C V I I I I N D E X

TARRAGON INFUSIONTtarragon infusion, parametric recipe for,

2·310tart, Onion tart, 5·261–265tartar sauce, Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce,

5·143, 145tartares, 3·62–69

example recipes for, 3·65–68tartaric acid

as acidi� er, 2·314for cold gels, parametric recipe for,

4·140for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289tastants

ethanol for extraction of, 2·320Maillard reaction and, 2·268

taste budsresearch on, 4·341sour-sensing, carbonation taste and,

2·465taste testing

of con� t, 2·129ratings and gold medals for wine

and, 4·338–339science of, 2·299triangle test for, 2·129, 4·334

how to set up, 4·336of wine, 4·330, 332, 334

Taubes, Gary, 1·236TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole), 4·348,

349TDS (total dissolved solids), brewing

control chart on, 4·367–368tea

Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4·291hot and cold, 4·176Hot and Cold Tea, 4·176, 182infusion of, parametric recipe for,

2·310Techamuanvivit, Pim, Pad � ai recipe,

3·385technoemotional cuisine, Adrià on

Modernist cuisine as, 1·37, 57temperature. See also energy; heat; low-

temperature cooking; radiation (radiant heat)

for Activa bonding, 3·252bacterial replication rates and,

1·142–143, 144during baking, 2·103, 106barbecue sous vide and, 3·216blowing on hot food and, physics of,

1·288of boiling water, 1·318. See also

boiling pointcarbonated liquids and, 2·464for co� ee brewing, 4·364, 368co� ee grind and, 4·376, 378co� ee roasting and, 4·360–361color indicators for, physics of, 1·291consistency in results and, 2·111controlling of, 1·270conversion tables, 5·XXXIV–XXXVcooked meat and seafood � avor and,

3·88–89for cooking, animals’ body

temperature and, 3·89core. See core temperaturecritical

bacterial replication rates and, 1·142–143

for freeze-drying, science of, 2·453freeze-drying and, 2·444, 446

temperature (continued)“danger zone,” 1·175–179de� ning, history of, 1·265de� nition of, 1·264dry-bulb. See dry-bulb temperaturefor drying with warm air, 2·432egg textures and, 4·76–77emulsi� er solubility and, 4·203for espresso-brewing, 4·372, 374

skill of choosing, 4·385factors in, 4·15for fat incorporation into sausage,

grinding and, 3·224FDA Food Code on, 1·174fermented sausage-making and,

3·246� avor of cooked meat and seafood

and, 3·88–89food safety rules based solely on,

1·174food safety rules on, 1·169fourth-power relationship of radiant

heat to, 1·285–286, 287for freeze-drying, 3·365freezing point and. See freezing

pointfor gelatin melting, 4·67–68for gelatinization, 4·22glass-transition, in freeze-drying,

1·329, 2·44, 444grinding fat to incorporate into

sausage and, 3·224for grinding meat, 3·230heat and, 1·264–271for heat-shocking, 3·358holding. See holding temperaturehydrocolloid hydration and, 4·38irreversible changes and, 1·268, 270lower, deep-frying with, 2·122lowering. See chilling; chilling water

baths; cook-chill sous vide methods; cooling; freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators

low-temperature cooking and. See low-temperature cooking; target core temperature

low-temperature steam mode andin combi ovens, 2·167in CVap water-vapor oven, 2·158,

159ovens using, 2·155

Maillard reaction and, 3·89–90management of, 1·95measuring, technology of, 1·269measuring during baking, 2·108for meat grinding, 3·230in Modernist Cuisine recipes, 1·96of oil for deep-frying, 2·116, 122,

123, 127for plant food cooking, 3·286plant food � avor and, 3·273resistance to change in, properties

of, 1·267scales for, 1·266, 285–286serving

brewed co� ee and, 4·364gel selection and, 4·73thickener selection and, 4·14–15

for slicing raw meat, 3·50for smoking, 2·132, 140–141, 3·208,

211chemistry of, 2·135

sous vide cooking and, 2·230–231

temperature (continued)speci� c heat and, 1·267–268spray-drying and, 2·438in steak frying, 3·72–73time and

bacterial death and, 1·148, 150–151noroviruses and, 1·154

for vacuum packing, 2·214viscosity and, 4·6wet-bulb. See wet-bulb temperaturefor wine storage, 4·345–346for wok burners, 2·52

“� e Ten Commandments of Nouvelle Cuisine,” 1·26, 27

tender cuts of meatcollagen and, 3·10, 70, 76, 81cooking sous vide

best bets for, 3·96example recipes for, 3·97–98parametric recipes for, 3·96

medium-tender, from primal cuts, 3·44

muscles and, 3·6contraction of, 3·8–9

plated-dish recipes for, 5·3–39very tender, from primal cuts, 3·44

tender cuts of poultrycooking sous vide

example recipes for, 3·100–101parametric recipes for, 3·99

Pigeon with Shell� sh Bu� er, 3·100–101

tender � sh, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·102

tender greens, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 2·451

Tenderay process for dry-aging meat, 3·41, 78

tenderizers, Jaccard. See Jaccard tenderizers

tenderizingwith acid, 3·192–193equipment for, 2·286

blade tenderizing and, 3·51. See also Jaccard tenderizers

for Modernist kitchen, 2·286FDA Food Code time and

temperature for, 1·176mechanical, of meat, 3·50–51

food safety and, 1·191foodborne illnesses and, 1·176muscle structure and, 3·10

multiple water baths and, 2·247–249with penetrating meat tenderizers,

hazards of, 1·176tenderloin, cooking sous vide, 2·248tepid-water baths, thawing using, 2·263Terranova decipens, 1·122–123terrines

Compressed Melon Terrine, 3·392Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5·101, 103terrine de foie gras, Pralus,

Troisgros and, 1·41, 42terroir, wine and, 4·322–325tetradecahedron, foam geometry as,

4·246tetrasodium pyrophosphate, myosin

extraction for sausage and, 3·223Texturas, sources of, 1·35texture

cook-chill sous vide method and, 2·252

deep-frying and, 2·122, 124, 125, 127

texture (continued)of eggs, temperature and, 4·76–77of foams, expanding by drying and,

2·433freezing and, 1·304, 2·256gelling with hydrocolloids and, 4·124holding at target temperature and,

2·242, 247–248hydrocolloid-texture combinations,

overview of, 4·VIImarinades and, 3·190oven humidity and, 2·153of pasta dough, 3·378of plant foods, modifying, 3·374–401progressive smoking and, 2·148searing a� er sous vide cooking and,

2·268smoking and, 2·138, 140, 141, 143sous vide preparation and, 2·195,

197, 198sterilization for canning and, 2·76thawing and, 1·313vacuum packing and, 2·213, 221water bath ho� er than target

temperature and, 2·245� ai chicken sausage, parametric recipe

for, 3·236–237� ai Crab Miang plated-dish recipe,

5·189–191� ai stock, parametric recipe for,

2·296–297� anksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4·33thawing

cooking directly from frozen vs., 1·313, 2·258, 262, 263

debate on, 1·313heat conduction in ice and, 1·311strategies for, 2·263timing for, 2·264

� e Curious Cook (McGee), 1·43� e � eory of the Avant-Garde (Poggioli),

1·18thermal conductivity, heat transfer

e� ciency and, 1·277thermal death curves

for bacteria, 1·149, 150–151FDA assumptions on, 1·182–189

thermal inactivation curves, for viruses, 1·153

thermistor, technology of, 1·269thermocouples

of freeze dryers, 2·446technology and types of, 1·269for testing pressure-canning process,

2·88thermo-irreversible gels

gel selection and, 4·70, 73set foams as, 4·244

thermometersaccuracy by type of, 1·269accuracy issues with, 1·206–207digital. See digital thermometersinfrared, 1·269, 2·286low-temperature cooking and, 1·205for Modernist kitchen, 2·286

� ermomixdispersing thickeners with, 4·24, 25hydrating thickeners with, 4·26

thermo-reversible gelsgel selection and, 4·70, 73methylcellulose for, 4·127

thermos bo� les, for sous vide cooking, 2·241


I N D E X C I X

TROTTER, CHARLIE Tthermostats

calibration of, 2·112of conventional ovens, 2·111of sous vide cookers, 2·230–231

thick foams, 4·278–287best bets for, 4·278example recipes for, 4·280–287,


thick foodcryogenic freezing and, 1·308, 310frozen, thawing of, 1·311

thickened hot and cold liquids, parametric recipe for, 4·46–47

� ickened Oil, 4·230thickeners, 4·3–63. See also thickening

dispersing, how to, 4·24emulsion stability and, 4·202, 204emulsion viscosity and, 4·205� avor release and, 4·10–11foam stabilizing with, 4·245hydrating, how to, 4·26measuring, how to, 4·23mouthfeel and, 4·6, 10for oil, 4·13proprietary blends, sources of, 4·41starches as, 4·20–37traditional, 4·7viscosity and, 4·3–4

technology of measuring, 4·8thickening. See also thickeners

chemistry of, 4·71common problems with, 4·27emulsi� cation for, 4·205methods for, 4·12–13modern methods of, 4·18–19of sauces, jus, and glazes, 2·346strategies for, 4·14–19

� is, Hervébiography of, 1·46Chocolate Chantilly recipe, 4·281Erice Conferences and, 1·44, 45food science and, 1·52hot spring eggs and, 4·75liquid nitrogen and, 1·61–62, 65on molecular gastronomy, 1·46,

47–48Pickled Quail Eggs recipe, 4·83Steingarten on, 1·65

� omas, Dave, innovations of, 1·21, 22� omas, Elizabeth Cawdry, 1·44–45� ompson, Bradford, Preserved

Lemons recipe, 3·350� ompson, David

miang kham of, 5·189� ai chicken sausage and, 3·236–237

thyme, antimicrobial properties of wine and, 1·145

thyme extract, parametric recipe for, 2·326

thymol, as antimicrobial compound, 1·145

thymus gland, 5·32. See also sweetbreadscharacteristics and cooking of, 3·140

TIC Gums, 4·40Tierno, Philip, 1·196, 200tigernuts

Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4·59Horchata Foam, 5·239, 244

tilapia, Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and Ginger, 3·115

Tim Wendleboe, 4·396, 400

timefor brining, 3·156FDA Food Code omission from

standards of, 1·174for plant food cooking, 3·286power as unit of, 1·272–273temperature and

bacterial death and, 1·148, 150–151FDA Food Code errors in, 1·183noroviruses and, 1·154

tincturesbest bets for using, 2·325� avors in, 2·320

TMAO (trimethylamine oxide), 3·43, 87Toasted Almond Milk, 4·59Toasted Garlic Chips, 5·5, 9Toasted Oat Jus, 5·126, 133Toasted Rice Milk, 4·59toasting spices, 5·94Toddy system, for cold-extraction

co� ee, 4·370tofu

Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4·121Firm Tofu, 4·112Instant Tofu Noodles, 4·172parametric recipe for, 4·104Peanut “Tofu,” 4·122as protein gel, 4·102Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi,

Sesame, Ponzu, 5·197, 202Silken Tofu, 4·113Uni with Whipped Tofu and

Tapioca, 4·285tofu gels, example recipes for,

4·112–113, 115, 121Tom Yum Broth, 2·309tomato chips, parametric recipe for, 3·328tomatoes. See also green tomatoes

as acidi� er, 2·314Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2·403Compressed Tomato, 5·11, 15compressing, parametric recipe for,





3·390introduction and acceptability of,

1·14, 16Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin,

4·175Pasta Marinara, 3·386pH level and canning method for, 2·76preserving, parametric recipe for,

3·348Pressure-Cooked Polenta with

Strawberry Marinara, 4·50sauces from fresh vs. canned, 3·276Tomato Con� t, 5·11, 55, 60, 62, 67Tomato Powder, 3·312Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 4·192Tomato Vinegar Foam, 5·60, 65Tomato Water, 2·366, 5·5, 60Tomato Whey Broth, 4·49

tongue (animal). See also speci� c animalscharacteristics and cooking of,

3·140–141tongue (human), taste regions of, 2·465,

4·341

tools. See also speci� c toolsclassic, 2·287cu� ing, for frying fruits and

vegetables, 3·326–327for emulsions, 4·208handy special-purpose, 2·285inexpensive but valuable, 2·286for meat chopping, grinding, or

cu� ing, 3·230–233must-have, 2·284technology and, 2·283, 286

torches. See blow torching and blowtorches

total dissolved solids (TDS), brewing control chart on, 4·366–367

Tough, Dana, Modernist raviolo al’uovo of, 4·190

tough cuts of meatcollagen and, 3·10–11, 70, 76, 81cooking sous vide, best bets for, 3·109example recipes for, 3·110, 111, 114muscles and, 3·6

contraction of, 3·8–9parametric recipes for, 3·109plated-dish recipes for, 5·41–105pressure-cooking for quick results,

how to, 3·114from primal cuts, 3·44sous vide cooking of, 3·95succulence of, 3·84

tough cuts of poultry, parametric recipes for, 3·108

tough � sh, example recipes for, 3·115tough shell� sh

best bets for, 3·108example recipes for, 3·112, 113parametric recipes for, 3·108

Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5·81, 82Toulouse goose, foie gras production in,

3·138Tower, Jeremiah, New American

cuisine and, 1·28toxins

bacterial, 1·134–135in cassava, 3·262chemistry of, 1·248in distilled essences, 2·391historical cooking and, 1·6natural, 1·249organically grown food and, 1·245in plants, 3·267

as self-defense, 3·266in reused deep-frying oil, 2·124, 125in seeds, 3·262

Toxoplasma gondiifoodborne illnesses in U.S. and,

1·111, 126–127human infections from, 1·128life cycle of, 1·127misconceptions about, 1·118psychological conditions due to, 1·127

trade, long-distance, civilization and, 1·7trade secrets, history of, 1·76traditional cooking, 2·2–149

baking and, 2·100–113boiling and, 2·62–69broiling and, 2·18–27canning and, 2·74–91covered sautéing and, 2·58–61grilling and, 2·6–17Myhrvold on writing about, 1·84–85myth of, 1·14–16in oil, 2·114–131

traditional cooking (continued)panfrying a la plancha and, 2·36–43pot-roasting and stewing and,

2·92–99roasting and, 2·28–35sautéing and, 2·44–47smoking and, 2·132–149steaming and, 2·70–73stir-frying and, 2·48–57

traditional plant foods, internationalization of, 3·268

Traeger smoker, 2·147Tragancanth Importing Company, 4·40Tramonto, Rick, Tro� er and, 1·69trans fat, 1·222, 224, 230–231transglutaminase. See also Activa

as coagulating enzyme, 4·70description of, 3·250–251gelling with, best bets for, 4·116–117

transglutaminase gels, parametric recipe for, 4·116

traveler’s diarrhea, 1·129trehalose, as bulking agent with spray-

dried powders, 2·442trematodes, 1·123–124

disease caused by, 1·120liver � ukes, 1·123–124salmon-poisoning � uke, 1·124

trials. See double-blind trials; randomized clinical trials

Trials of Hypertension I and II, 1·234triangle tests

how to set up, 4·336for taste testing, 2·129of wine, 4·334

Trichinella spiraliscontamination of meat by,

1·117–118, 120–122, 179as � esh-dwelling parasite, 1·174invasive infection by, 1·120–121misconceptions about, 1·179overstated risk of exposure to, 1·170

trichinellosiscommon misconceptions about,

1·117–118, 121–122deaths due to, 1·113as disease name, 1·119

triglycerides, 1·222Trillin, Calvin, 1·28trimethylamine oxide (TMAO), 3·43, 87tripe

characteristics and cooking of, 3·141–143


as sausage binder, 3·222texture of, 3·137

Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock Infusion, 5·253, 254

triple pointphase changes and, 1·326in phase diagrams, 1·302–303

triple stocks, 2·290Troisgros, Jean-Baptiste, 1·25Troisgros, Michel, 1·25

Cocoa Nib Curd recipe, 4·105Troisgros, Pierre and Jean, 1·25, 41, 73trompe l’oeil dishes, 3·388–401Tro� er, Charlie

� ne cuisine in Chicago and, 1·69New American cuisine and, 1·28, 29Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion

and Water Chestnuts recipe, 3·101


C X I N D E X

TROUTTtrout

blue, science of, 3·40cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102diet and � esh color of, 3·93Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel

Salad, 3·106Tru, 1·69tru� es

Black Tru� e Concentrate, 2·427, 5·216

Cromesquis, 3·340faux

Dacosta on, 2·459Frozen White “Tru� e,” 3·400–401

Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Tru� e Puree, 4·114

Pecorino with Tru� e Honey on Cedar, 4·101

preserving freshness of, 2·470smelling, science of, 4·350storing with dry ice or gas-� ushing

vacuum sealer, 2·471Tru� e Jus, 4·53Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98

truite au bleu, science of, 3·40tubers. See also speci� c tubers

gelling agents from, 4·126Horchata drinks from, 4·59

tuiles, Soccarat Tuile, 5·239, 245tularemia, 1·138tulip pa� ern, for ca� è la� es, 4·395Tully’s, 4·398tumblers, vacuum, 2·285, 3·158,

166–167, 175tumbling meat, 3·50–51tuna

Adrià’s use of intervertebral pads of, 1·36

albacore, about, 5·176bigeye, as alternative to blue� n, 3·55blocking, 3·54–55blue� n. See blue� n tunaBroiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier

Bu� er, 4·220cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102cooking temperature for, 3·83cu� ing, 3·52red and fa� y � esh of, biology of, 3·21Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard,

5·175, 176Tuna Ribbons with Ginger

Marmalade, 3·202yellow� n, about, 5·176

tuna bo� arga, in Sea Urchin Bo� arga, 5·226

TurboChef microwave and convection oven, 2·189

turbotaging e� ects on, 3·40cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·102Turbot with Onion and Marrow

Broth, 3·105turkey

baked, cutaway illustration of, 2·104–105

brining, parametric recipe for, 3·172Clostridium per� ingens-

contaminated, 1·139, 141cooked, pink color in, 3·94

turkey (continued)cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·99, 108fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in,

3·12Turkey Wing, 4·33

Turkey & Gravy seasonal � avor, 4·33Turner, Joseph Mallord William, 1·33turnips

Braised Turnips with Sa� ron, 5·121, 123

cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·289, 290, 292


Root Vegetable Jus, 5·161, 163Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309in Sauerkraut, 3·351Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53Sous Vide Turnip, 5·31, 33

tweezers, surgical, for cooking, 1·19712D drop, in bacteria for sanitizing

food, 1·148, 149Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghe� o, 4·143Tyndall e� ect, 4·72, 203

UU.K. Institute of Food Research, 1·147ullage

wine corks and, 4·344wine storage temperature and, 4·345

ultracold deep freezers, sous vide cooking and, 2·259

Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 3·134–135ultrahigh-pressure homogenizers

for Modernist kitchen, 2·284for reducing particle size, 2·398, 400for wet-grinding, 2·414, 422–423

ultrasonic bathsfor extracting and infusing � avors,

2·251for kitchen hygiene, 1·204for Modernist kitchen, 2·285

Ultrasonic Fries, 3·325, 5·11ultrasonic homogenizers

breaking down food with, 2·400emulsifying with, 4·208foam forming with, 4·252freezing clear cubes of ice with, 1·333wet-grinding with, 2·414–415

Ultra-Sperse 3, thickening with, 4·22, 30parametric recipe for, 4·30

Ultra-Sperse 5, for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279

Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4·219Ultra-Tex 8, thickening with, 4·22, 30

parametric recipe for, 4·30ultraviolet radiation

heat and emission of, 1·287to kill bacteria, 1·149prions and, 1·157for purifying water, 1·335ultraviolet light kits for sterilizing

and, 1·205ultraviolet lotion or powder and,

hand washing and, 1·201umami brine, parametric recipe for, 3·168umami � avor

MSG and, 3·160ripening cured meat or seafood and,

3·167Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 4·183uncooked foods. See raw foods; speci� c

foodsUnder Pressure (Keller), 1·73, 83Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca,

4·285United Kingdom. See also England

mad cow disease in, 1·156, 160Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·28Roux and sous vide cooking in, 1·41

United StatesCerti� ed Angus Beef in, 3·39laws of. See also U.S. Food and Drug

Administrationon advertising and label health

claims, 1·214on distillation, 1·94, 2·384, 391on food safety, 1·165, 190local, for laboratory equipment, 1·94

Modernist cuisine in, 1·67Nouvelle cuisine in, 1·27regional barbecue specialties in,

3·218–219unsaturated fat, 1·222

unsaturated oils, � avor of saturated oils vs., 2·126

urban populations, civilization and, 1·7U.S. Centers for Disease Control and

Prevention (CDC)on E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006,

1·172on foodborne illness, 1·110–111, 113on foods associated with Salmonella,

1·180on Giardia intestinalis infections, 1·126on peanut or tree nut allergies, 1·238on Toxoplasma gondii infections, 1·126

U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, 1·179, 181

U.S. Department of Agriculture. See also U.S. Food Safety and Inspection Service

Agricultural Research Service, 1·180–181

on BSE testing, 1·160canning guidelines of, 2·79–80on essences for food, 2·324food and agricultural scienti� c

research by, 1·48maximum concentrations of curing

salts permi� ed by, 3·161meat inspection stamp of, 3·39meat-grading system of, 3·35–36, 39on nitrates and nitrites in cured

foods, 3·160Pathogen Modeling Program of, 1·147slaughterhouse inspector

regulations, 3·35U.S. Food and Drug Administration

(FDA)on BSE contamination, 1·160consumer web site on cooking pork,

1·179on cooking pork vs. beef, 1·170–171on cooking times and temperatures,

speci� c, 1·184–185E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006

and, 1·172food additives banned by, 1·252Food Code of. See FDA Food Codeon foodborne giardiasis, 1·127on freezing raw foods, time-and-

temperature standards for, 1·186on histamine poisoning, 1·139on killing anisakids, 1·123on killing trichina worms, 1·121on Modernist ingredients, 1·254on nisin as food additive, 1·144on roasting whole-meats roasts, oven

temperatures for, 1·186on sous vide cooking and storage,

time-and-temperature standards for, 1·186

time-and-temperature curves of, 1·187on Yersinia enterocolitica

transmission, 1·117U.S. Food Safety and Inspection

Service (FSIS)on chicken cooking times, 1·181on pork cooking times, 1·179Salmonella reduction standards of,

1·168on thin roasts vs. thick steaks, 1·187

U.S. National Institutes of Health, 1·215U.S. National Toxicology Program, 1·220U.S. Patent and Trademark O� ce, 1·71


I N D E X C X I

VINDALOO CURRY VVvacuoles, of plant foods

cooking and, 3·273enzymes and, 3·283vacuum compression and, 2·213

vacuumde� nition of, 2·212freezing liquid nitrogen in, 1·324liquid in, physics of, 2·215sealing jars in canning and, 2·77

vacuum chambers. See also chamber sealers

foam forming with, 4·255, 258, 260, 310–315

vacuum co� ee brewer, 4·369vacuum compression

physics of, 2·213for plant food cooking, 3·286using chamber sealers, 2·214

vacuum concentrators, 2·285, 379, 380vacuum condensers, essential oils and,

2·320vacuum desiccators

drying plant foods with, 3·365features of, 2·433, 436–437foam forming with, 4·310for Modernist kitchen, 2·286

vacuum distillation, 2·380. See also rotary evaporators

vacuum dryers, 2·430, 433, 436–437vacuum evaporation

for concentrating � avor, 2·380for reducing sauces, jus, or glazes,

2·346of wine, 4·330

vacuum � ltering, 2·286, 4·352–358description of, 2·352, 358,

4·353–354equipment for, 2·286, 356–357how to, 2·357of wine, 4·344

vacuum frying, 2·128vacuum in� ation, foam forming with,

4·252, 254, 310vacuum jars, 2·286vacuum ovens, 2·433, 4·310vacuum packing, 2·208–227. See also

sous videfor Activa bonding, 3·252boiling not crushing during, 2·213chamber sealers for, 2·214–221compression in, physics of, 2·213containers for, 2·210–211dehydration and, 1·328edge sealers for, 2·222–224freeze-drying and, 2·447freezing food and, 2·256freezing in liquid nitrogen a� er,

2·258ice-brine freezing and, 1·310impulse sealers for, 2·225mechanism of action, 2·212of plant foods, cooking and, 3·286rigid containers for, 2·226–227of sausage mix before stu� ng, 3·227,

230searing before, 2·268of tru� es, 2·471uses of, 2·208–209

vacuum pressure, 2·391, 447

vacuum pumps, 2·356membrane-type

� ltration with, 2·354, 357for Modernist kitchen, 2·284vacuum reduction using, 2·380, 381

vacuum reductionfor concentrating � avor, 2·379, 4·11freezing clear cubes of ice with, 1·333low-cost, 2·380–383with rotary evaporators, 2·391technique for, 2·381thickening with, 4·11

vacuum tumblers, 2·285, 3·158, 166–167, 175

vacuum-assisted aeration, 2·214vacuum-assisted cooling

evaporation and, 1·321phase changes in, 1·290

vacuum-assisted drying, 1·321, 2·215. See also vacuum-drying

Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage Juice, 2·389

vacuum-drying, 2·430, 433, 436–437. See also vacuum-assisted drying

vacuum-sealed individual portions, 2·199, 201

vacuum-sealing, compressing and impregnating produce by, 3·390–391

vacuum-set foams, 4·310–315example recipes for, 4·311–313

Valazza, Luisa Marelli, 1·28Valdre, Ugo, 1·44–45van Leeuwenhoek, Antony, 1·107, 128vanilla extract, parametric recipe for,

2·326vanilla infusion, parametric recipe for,

2·310Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 4·35vapor, gas vs., 1·300vapor pressure, 1·314, 326vaporization, 1·314–325. See also

evaporationheat of, 1·296. See also latent heat of

vaporizationLa Varenne, École de, 4·322–325La Varenne, François Pierre de

as chef to French ruling class, 1·8, 9French cuisine and, 1·19innovations of, 1·20

variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (vCJD), 1·159, 160, 161

variety meats. See innardsVarvary, 1·70vat pasteurization, 1·188veal. See also oxtail

Braised Veal Foreshank, 5·60, 62Brown Veal Stock, 2·300cooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·96, 109primal cuts of, 3·44Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked

Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111

veal heart, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146

veal knuckle and neck bones, Brown Veal Stock, 2·300

veal liver, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for, 3·146

veal marrowbonesBone Marrow Custard, 5·60, 63Turbot with Onion and Marrow

Broth, 3·105

veal stock, parametric recipe for, 2·296–298

veal sweetbreadscooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·146Crispy Sweetbreads, 3·150Sweetbreads with Sour Mango

Powder and Shiitake, 3·151veal tongue


for, 3·146Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 5·49, 50

vegetable chipsexample recipes for, 3·328–330fried, best bets for, 3·328parametric recipe for, 3·328–329

vegetable gels, hot, parametric recipe for, 4·164–165

vegetable glue, 3·392vegetable jus, parametric recipe for,

2·344–345vegetable sheeters, Japanese, 3·326vegetable slicers, rotary, Japanese, 3·327vegetable stock, parametric recipe for,

2·296–297vegetables. See also speci� c vegetables

Allium, Maillard reaction and, 3·90blanching, 2·269boiling and � xing color of, 2·63, 66classi� cation of, 3·262colorectal cancer risk and, 1·214–215compressed and impregnated,

example recipes for, 3·395–401Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,

5·55, 58cooked, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294cooking sous vide

with fat, best bets for, 3·292with fat, parametric recipe for, 3·292of heat-sensitive vegetables, best

bets for, 3·292parametric recipe for, 3·288,

289–290, 292for puree, best bets for, 3·290until tender, best bets for, 3·289

covered sautéing of, 2·58, 60–61cruciferous. See also speci� c vegetables

blanching, 2·214cut size for stock, 2·290–291cu� ing tools for frying, 3·326–327dehydrating

best bets for, 3·366example recipes for, 3·368–369, 371parametric recipe for, 3·366–367

FDA standards and, 1·189freeze-drying

best bets for, 3·372example recipes for, 3·373, 5·261parametric recipe for, 2·451, 3·372

heat-sensitive, cooking sous videbest bets for, 3·292parametric recipe for, 3·292

heat-shocking, 3·358microwaving, best bets for, 3·311multistep deep-frying of, 2·122plated-dish recipes for, 5·259–275,

281–283preserving, best bets for, 3·348purees of

best bets for, 2·425example recipes for, 2·426–427,

5·5, 216

vegetables (continued)mechanics of, 3·279parametric recipe for, 2·424–425

Ramen Vegetables, 2·455, 5·247raw, seasonal mélanges of, 3·294smoked, example recipe for, 3·363Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5·49, 53Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2·347Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2·303Vegetable Coals, 3·395volumetric equivalents for amounts

of, 5·XLIV–XLVwater content of, 5·XLIWok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables,

5·169vegetarian dishes simulating meats,

3·388vegetarianism, 1·244Velveeta cheese, 4·222venison. See also deer


in Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,” 3·185

Venison Loin Rossini, 3·98ventilation hoods, HEPA (High

E� ciency Particulate Air), 1·205venting, pressure cookers or pressure

canners, 2·86–87verbena, Halibut in Verbena Bubble,

4·156–157Verdun, Pierre, 2·412verjus

as acidi� er, 2·314Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5·219,

221Versawhip, 4·244

for thick foams, parametric recipe for, 4·278–279

very-low-density lipoprotein (VLDL), 1·226

Veyrat, MarcCitrus Air recipe, 4·265Halibut in Verbena Bubble recipe,

4·156–157homemade sodas by, 4·239Modernist cuisine and, 1·64Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino

recipe, 4·275Nouvelle cuisine and individuality

of, 1·27, 39–40Tru� e Jus recipe, 4·53

vibrator tray, for espresso tamping, 4·380Vibrio cholerae, 1·132, 134, 135, 145vicinal water

drying with warm air and, 2·432food drying and, 2·428freeze-drying and, 2·444, 447pu� ng skin and, 3·122, 123

Victrola Co� ee, 4·375, 396, 398, 401vin jaune du Jura

Sauce Vin Jaune, 5·113, 116Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune

Sabayon, 3·363vinaigre� es, 4·230–231

Cherry Vinaigre� e, 5·267, 270Invincible Vinaigre� e, 4·231Mustard Vinaigre� e, 4·231Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce

Vinaigre� e, 5·181, 183Vinay, Jean-Paul, as elBulli chef, 1·33, 34Vindaloo Curry, 5·90. See also Goan

Curry


C X I I I N D E X

VINEGARVvinegar

as acidi� er, 2·314, 315eggs marinated in, 4·75Elder Flower Vinegar, 2·315Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5·125, 128osmanthus, 5·172Oysters with Mignone� e Air, 4·265production process for, 1·256Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion

and Water Chestnuts, 3·101Seaweed Vinegar, 2·315Sherry Gel Cube, 5·267, 270vinegar-coagulated egg and,

parametric recipe for, 4·82virions, 1·154virtual cooking experiments. See

computer simulation modelsviruses, 1·152–156

alcohol sanitizers and, 1·200as foodborne pathogens, 1·109, 111,

113hepatitis, 1·155names for, 1·112noroviruses, 1·153–154reproduction of, 1·152–153rotaviruses, 1·155spreading, mathematics of, 1·153

viscometers, 4·6, 8, 10viscosity

of common liquids, 4·8controlling, options for, 4·16emulsions and, 4·204–205extreme, of solid that drips, 4·9measuring, technology of, 4·8shear forces in � uids and, 4·5–6thickeners and, 4·10

selection of, 4·15vitamin A, 1·235vitamin C

as acidi� er, 2·314aging braises and pot roasts and,

2·98browning reaction in plants and,

3·283health bene� ts of, 1·235natural vs. synthetic, 1·254–255nitrates in cured meats and, 1·143to slow plant juice browning, 2·338

vitamin E, 1·143, 235vitamin supplements, debate on, 1·235viticulture, 1·7, 4·329–331Vitis labrusca, 4·327Vitis vinifera, 4·327, 328–329Vives, Joachim, 4·184vodka

Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 2·389co� ee brewing in, 4·371Fines Herbes Extract, 2·327House Bi� ers, 2·327Modernist Fried Chicken, 3·337

volatilesevaporated, wineglass shapes and,

4·325in roasted co� ee, 4·361vacuum-drying and removal of,

2·433volume

equivalents for amounts of typical foods, 5·XLIV–XLV

surface area ratio to, 2·288Vongerichten, Jean-Georges

eating experience and career of, 1·49Green Asparagus and Morels with

Asparagus Jus recipe, 2·341homemade sodas by, 4·239molten chocolate cake by, 1·15New International cuisine and, 1·30,

52restaurants of, 1·31Spiced Chili Oil recipe, 2·330Sweetbreads with Sour Mango

Powder and Shiitake recipe, 3·151Tuna Ribbons with Ginger

Marmalade recipe, 3·202vegetable juices, oil infusions, and

vinaigre� es of, 1·35Vovito Ca� è, 4·396, 401Vytorin, heart disease and, 1·227

Wwafers

dehydrating formula for, 3·367Sweet Pea Wafer, 3·371

Wagyu beefcalpastatin in Brahman ca� le vs.,

3·76marbling in, 3·19, 36richness of, 5·57shimofuri, fat content of, 3·84

Wakuda, Tetsuya, Steelhead Trout Con� t with Fennel Salad recipe, 3·106

Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5·229, 230Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,

4·53Warner, Ezra, 2·75Warner, K. F., 3·77Warner-Bratzler tenderometer, science

of estimating tenderness with, 3·77water, 1·292–335. See also evaporation;

humidity; moisture; water activityin body, kidneys and volume of,

3·141boiling point of

relative humidity and, 2·163vacuum pressure vs., 2·391

bo� led, as pure water, 1·335bound, dehydration and, 1·321for brining, 3·158carbonated, carbon dioxide and,

4·254physics of, 1·334

changing states of, energy of, 1·300–303

chemistry of, 1·298color and texture of cooking plant

foods and, 3·274–275in common foods, 1·294–295condensation of, 1·314–325deionized, 1·335

espresso-making and, 4·384hydrating ion-coagulated gels and,


deposition of, 1·329energy and heating of, 1·300in ethanol, solubility of, 1·332food content of, 1·294–295free

as measure of dryness, 2·428rehydration and, 1·321

freezing. See freezinghard

dissolved minerals and, 1·335espresso-making and, 4·384hydration of ion-coagulated gels

with, 4·124plant food cooking and, 3·278

hydrogen bonds in alcohol vs., 1·314Maillard reaction and, 3·90phase changes in, 1·290phase diagrams, how to read,

1·302–303physics of, Myhrvold on writing

about, 1·84in plant foods, 3·273, 276, 278properties and behavior of, 1·296puri� cation of, reverse osmosis and,

2·397purity of, 1·335

water (continued)quality of, 1·335

for espresso, 4·384in raw foods, weight of, 3·79, 83in rehydrated freeze-dried foods,

3·365rotary evaporator mix of ethanol

and, 2·384, 390sausage binding and, 3·223sausage grinding and, 3·230in skin, 3·116as solvent, 1·330–333sublimation of, 1·326–329supercool, how to, 1·312thawing and, 1·311, 313unsafe for drinking, 1·110, 129vaporization of, 1·314–325vicinal

drying with warm air and, 2·432food drying and, 2·428freeze-drying and, 2·444, 447pu� ng skin and, 3·122, 123

viscosity of blood vs., 4·6as viscosity reference, 4·6water baths and. See water bathswet-curing vs. dry-curing and, 3·160,

162water activity

bacterial reproduction and, 1·144equilibrium relative humidity and,

2·430as free water measure, 2·428physics of, 1·307

water and bleach solutiondrying with warm air and, 2·433for kitchen cleansing, 1·200, 204

water baths. See also holding temperature; ice-brine baths; ice-water baths

baking using, 2·106boiling using, 2·63boundary layer disruption in, 1·283calibrating internal thermometer of,

2·230chilling

equipment for, 2·285technology of, 2·238

circulation control in, 2·234–235e� ciency of, 1·274egg emulsions and, 4·226frozen food cooking in, 2·262heat transfer coe� cient of, 1·283holding at speci� c temperature in,

2·247–249homemade and improvised,

2·240–241hot, for blanching, 2·267ho� er than target temperature,

2·243–247hydrating thickeners in, 4·26for Modernist kitchen, 2·284multiple

at di� erent temperatures, 2·244, 247

how to cook in, 2·248–249pasteurizing for storage using,

2·249–250programmable heating/chilling and,

2·255selection criteria for, 2·236–237for sous vide cooking, 2·198–199,

232, 234at target core temperature, 2·243–247


I N D E X C X I I I

WOMEN’S HEALTH INITIATIVE STUDYWwater baths (continued)

warm, thawing using, 2·263water chestnuts, Quail with Apple-

Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts, 3·101

Water Cube, at Beijing National Aquatics Center, 4·246

water faucet handles, personal hygiene and, 1·200

water so� eners, ion-exchange � lters as, 1·335

water vapor. See also evaporation; humidity; latent heat of vaporization

in air, 1·319–321, 325in deep-frying, 2·115, 116–117,

118–119, 125freeze-drying and, 2·444in shallow frying, 2·127–128vacuum reduction and, 2·380

watercresscooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·290Creamed Watercress, 2·426, 5·5

Waterhouse, Andrew, 4·349water-in-gas (W/G) emulsions, 4·243water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, 4·199,

203water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W)

emulsion, 4·199watermelon



smoking, parametric recipe for, 3·362

Watermelon Bulgogi plated-dish recipe, 5·285–287

Watermelon Meat, 3·394, 5·285Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5·285,

286watermelon chips

parametric recipe for, 3·328Watermelon Chips, 3·328

Waters, AliceNew American cuisine and, 1·28–29Razor Clam with Sauce Verte recipe,

3·112on Slow Food, 1·23

water-vapor ovensbaking using, 2·106cooking modes of, 2·155–156CVap. See CVap water-vapor ovensheat and humidity control in,

2·158–159invention of, 2·154for Modernist kitchen, 2·284pot-roasting using, 2·96for sous vide cooking, 2·232, 239,

243water content of heated air in, 2·153

Watson, Hugh, 3·39Wa� , James, 1·272wa� les, preparation of, 3·122wa� s, 1·272–273, 2·10wavelength, of microwaves, 2·182waxy corn, thickening with, 4·20, 28

parametric recipe for, 4·28wd~50. See Dufresne, WylieWDT (Weiss Distribution Technique),

for grooming espresso, 4·383Weaire, Denis, 4·246Weaire-Phelan structure, 4·246

weasand meat, as sausage binder, 3·222–223

weather, winemaking and, 4·328–329weeping. See syneresisweight loss diets, 1·240–241Weight Watchers, 1·241, 242weighting agents, emulsion stability

and, 4·204weights

calibrated, for pressure-canning, 2·86–87

conversion tables, 5·XXXVIIand measures, 1·94–95scales for measuring

digital. See digital scaleslaboratory, 4·23

Weil, Roman, 4·339, 340Weiss, John, 4·383Weiss Distribution Technique (WDT),

for grooming espresso, 4·383Wendleboe, Tim, 4·396, 400Westinghouse, Tenderay process for

dry-aging meat of, 3·41, 78wet cures, basic, parametric recipe for,

3·169wet process, for co� ee, 4·358Wet Whisker, 4·398wet-aging meat, 3·41wet-bulb temperature

as baking temperature, 2·103, 106, 107, 112

barbecue stall and, 3·212basting and, 2·103for beer can chicken, 2·109braising in ovens and, 2·96in CVap water-vapor oven,

2·158–159, 165dry-bulb temperature vs., 2·96, 102,

106, 112drying and, 2·431drying stages in baking and,

2·106–108evaporative cooling and, 2·155pot-roasting in ovens and, 2·96on psychrometric charts, how to

read, 1·323in Rational combi oven, 2·164–165relative humidity and, 1·322for smoking, 3·208, 211

wet-curingbest bets for, 3·169equilibrium method for, 3·162, 165

how to, 3·170–171for food preservation, 3·152high-concentration method for,

3·171osmosis and, 3·154salinity for, 3·160speeding by injection or vacuum,

how to, 3·174–175wet-grinding, 2·412–427

with colloid mills, 2·413–414, 416–419

equipment for, 2·412–414with Pacojet, 2·407with rotor-stator homogenizers,

2·413, 420–421with ultrahigh-pressure

homogenizers, 2·422–423with ultrasonic homogenizers,

2·414–415W/G (water-in-gas) emulsions, 4·243

wheat. See also � ourallergies to, 1·238thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·28Wheat Bran Fiber Study, 1·215, 217wheat pasta, parametric recipe for,

3·381wheat starch, 4·20, 28whey protein isolate

foaming and, 5·187for froths, parametric recipe for,

4·264Whipped Bu� er, 4·286Whipped Cheese, 4·272Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292whipping siphons

for cold foams, 4·245cutaway illustration of, 4·261to foam ba� er on food for frying,

3·316foam forming with, 4·252, 255, 258for Modernist kitchen, 2·286molding sausage with, 3·241nitrous oxide used in, 4·256

whisksemulsifying with, 4·206, 208foam forming with, 4·252, 255, 258,

259frothing milk for espresso with, 4·391

White, Marco Pierre, 1·28white abalone, about, 5·203white asparagus, Sous Vide White

Asparagus, 5·147, 149white cabbage, Sous Vide and Pressure-

Cooked Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3·111

White Coleslaw, 5·67, 72White Grape Syrup, 4·52white hot, 1·287White Lily � our, 5·13, 77white meat

in chickens and turkeys, 3·12in chickens vs. ducks, 3·16–17meat color and, 3·12–15

White Stock, 2·297white tea infusion, parametric recipe

for, 2·310white wine. See speci� c types of winewhite� sh, cold-smoking, parametric

recipe for, 3·210“Why Most Published Research

Findings Are False” (Ionnadis), 1·220Wickens, Robin, 1·71wild boar

E. coli O157:H7 outbreak of 2006 and, 1·172

Trichinella and, 1·120, 122wild rice, pu� ed, parametric recipe for,

4·302wild wood violets, Blossom Salad, 5·171,

172Wiltshire tank cure, parametric recipe

for, 3·169wind chill factor, convection and, 1·283wine, 4·316–353. See also speci� c types of

winealcohol percentage in, 1·330antimicrobial properties of oregano

or thyme and, 1·145aroma kit and, technology of, 4·348cheap vs. expensive, 4·340, 342closures, 4·344–345color and � avor of, 4·334–335, 338

wine (continued)corked, 4·348–350, 349decanting, 4·342–343descriptions of, 4·339–340freeze concentration of, 2·396gold medals for, 4·338–339grape varieties and, 4·326–328great, factors in, 4·322–332hyperdecanting, 4·343labels, 4·351for marinating, 3·195names, rules, and laws of, 4·331–332pairing, 4·350, 352, 5·109as preserved plant food, 3·346production process for, 1·256ratings of, 4·338–339red, resveratrol in, 1·228reverse osmosis in making, 2·397reviews of, goals for, 4·340seasoning with, 2·317storing, 4·345–348taste and � avor myths about, 4·341tasting, 4·334–353

sensory science of, 4·337terroir and, 4·322–325underground cellars for, physics of,

4·345un� nished bo� les of, 4·346–348vacuum packing and, 2·213viscosity of, 4·353viticulture and, 4·329–331weather and climate, and, 4·328–329

� e Wine Advocate, 4·330, 338Wine Aroma Wheel, 4·339Wine Business Monthly, 4·338wine cellars, underground, physics of,

4·345wine “improvement” devices, 4·343Wine Spectator, 4·348wineglasses

legs or tears on inside of, 4·353shape of, evaporated volatiles and,

4·325winemaking, 1·7, 4·329–331winter squash. See also speci� c types of

winter squashcooking sous vide, parametric recipe

for, 3·289, 290puree of, parametric recipe for, 2·425Root Vegetable Riso� o, 3·309

W/O (water-in-oil) emulsion, 4·199, 203Woese, Carl, 1·130wok burners, 2·52, 56–57, 287Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 5·167,

169woks. See also stir-frying

bao technique with, 2·54, 55chao technique with, 2·56–57glowing hot, physics of, 1·287heat transfer in, 2·48sautéing using, 2·45seasoning, 2·53

Wolfert, Paula, Duck Leg Con� t with Pommes Sarladaises recipe, 3·178

Wolke, Robert L., 1·44� e Woman Who � inks Like a Cow, 3·36Women’s Health Initiative study

on dietary fat and cancer, 1·233on dietary fat and heart disease,

1·229on dietary � ber and colon cancer,

1·217, 219, 220on multivitamins, 1·235


C X I V I N D E X

WOMEN’S HEALTHY EATING AND LIVING TRIALWWomen’s Healthy Eating and Living

trial, 1·233Wondra, thickening with, 4·22, 30

parametric recipe for, 4·30wood

for smokingchoices in, and myths of, 2·145cultural importance of, 2·136

soaked, for smoking, 2·145we� ing for smoking, cautions

against, 2·141, 143wood stoves, 1·286wood-� red ovens, 2·26–27, 33World Health Organization, 1·228, 240worms. See parasitic wormsworst-case scenarios, food safety rules

and, 1·168–169W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water)

emulsion, 4·199Wrangham, Richard, 1·6, 3·269

Xxanthan gum

for bubbles and froths, parametric recipe for, 4·264


controlling syneresis with, 4·17for edible � lms, parametric recipe

for, 4·60as emulsion stabilizer, 4·215for � uid gels, parametric recipe for,

4·177as foam stabilizer, 4·257gluten-free bread and, 3·376in heavy cream, 4·102for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe


4·160hydration of, 4·38interactions with other thickeners,


for, 4·270myriad uses of, 4·40natural sources for, 1·253, 257product guide for, 4·IV–Vproperties and uses of, 4·42–43for set foams, parametric recipe for,

4·288–289for spheri� cation, parametric recipe


for, 4·278–279thickening with, parametric recipe

for, 4·46, 47xanthophyll, poultry � esh color and, 3·93xiao long bao, 5·253XO Sauce, 4·52

YYakitori, 3·201yeast

corked wine and, 4·350on ripening cured meat or seafood,

3·173yellow squash, cooking sous vide,

parametric recipe for, 3·289yellow wax beans, Fresh Bean Salad,

5·85, 87Yersinia enterocolitica, 1·117, 134, 145yogurt

Activa used in, 3·251Banana Yogurt, 5·98Dannon

for American tastes, 1·20–21as fast, ready-to-eat food, 1·22–23

fermentation and, 1·134fruit-on-the-bo� om, 1·20–21for marinating, 3·190, 198Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4·292Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato

Chips, 4·287Young, Chris, 1·85yuba, 5·205


Green Pea Yuba, 4·115yuzus

Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, 4·285

Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 3·356

ZZhu, Johnny, ramen cups developed by,

5·247Zhu, Mrs., Microwaved Tilapia with

Scallions and Ginger recipe, 3·115Zichichi, Antonino, Erice Conferences

and, 1·44, 45zinc, health bene� ts of, 1·235Zinfandel, history of sleuthing out, 4·326Ziryab, 1·10Zoecklein, Bruce W., 4·334Zoka café, 4·398zucchini



Zucchini Blossom Beignet, 5·151, 153


PAœ METRIC RECIPE TABLES - Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science

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Transcript of PAœ METRIC RECIPE TABLES - Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science